Oh my gosh, the memories of cleaning the heads on cassette decks. Always on the lookout for the *good* isopropyl at the store. I was waiting for the q-tip to get pinched between the roller and its post!
I have had a Manufactorer tell me on CFL and regular florescent that every time you turn on any type of florescent bulb , the bulb will lose 3 hours of it life. Also a bad bulb or bad ballast will cause will cause the other to go bad early. Hope that helps. Thanks for the videos, I have learned alot. Keep up the great work !
My parents had an old 15 watt 18" T12 preheat lamp over their kitchen sink. They never turned it off. I remember it well, it was an old warm white bulb. Left it on day and night as a nightlight. It run for over 18 years 24x7. It is very true that turning fluroescent bulbs on is the hardest thing on them. CFL with their electronics will not last as long because capacitors will ultimately fail in the ballast and eventually burn the lamp out, but an old preheat type lamp with a simple magnetic choke type ballast will last for decades if turned on and left on. In my house I have a small circline lamp in my hall, that uses a preheat start ballast. It was installed when the house was built in 2002, and the only time it has been out is during a power failure or when someone flips the wrong switch. So it has been now running for 16 years, and shows no sign of burning out anytime soon, however I have noticed that is it not quite as bright as it once was.
Love your videos, thanks. Yamaha's are my fave to work on have a old receiver from the 90's out of the ewaste I'm restoring. BTW Id loose my mind if I had that much stuff on my workbench... but I wish I had that much stuff to put on my workbench. Always entertaining.
Thanks Dave. Glad to have my KX300 back. Played it today and it sounds very good indeed. Tell us, does cassette tape, or any other for that matter, deteriorate over time? The tapes have sat unplayed for as long as the player, +/- 25 years and yet they sound great.
The deadly gooo belt, at least it was only the tape counter :-D. I've never heard any cassette recorder that reproduced a tone without frequency wobble, im sure they only work spot on when new. I liked the big metal cast capstan flywheel units, and a quality soft pinch roller.
Thanks for posting this video it was very helpful. I'm wondering if it would be smart to recheck the speed after you de-gunked the mechanism, which may have affected the pinch roller pressure?
Thank you for sharing this video! I also own a KX300 but lately been facing a problem. The door couldn't close properly, like it doesn't grip the door panel properly. Sometimes it okay
The days when I had to make sure the deck I bought matched the Dolby format my car could playback. I've been looking around in thrift stores for a Technics deck. Not having much luck finding one to match my 90's Technics amplifiers.
Hi I have a sharp QT90 1983 and I m stock with a small problem , on recording deck when I play cassette sont not loud , for full volume its hardly to hear, I change belts and roller , recording perfect but when you play no sound, what happens, pleas help
Yeah I was gonna ask the same thing . The video skips right past the counter belt replacement . What did you use ? A rubber band that was the right size ? I’ll bet that lasts longer than those stupid things Yamaha used that turn into grease .
I have a TEAC v-2rx that was given to me, the motor would not turn, the tiny incandescent light woudn't turn on and the digital tape counter would not either, it had a blown fuse on the 12V rail. After replacing the fuse everything would work except for the tiny light which was burnt out (and maybe popped the fuse with it?) anyway I learned that the mechanism depended on the light to shine through the optical sensors because the counter would not advance and it would stop after a second or two. After replacing that bulb it now works but I noticed there is a speed problem. I adjusted the speed screw to the correct speed after some time (maybe half an hour or so) I noticed the speed got slow suddenly (the music sounded flat), I then corrected the speed and then after some time it got high (music sounded sharp) and I was not able to maintain proper speed as it was shifting up and down. I even dissasembled the motor to remove the small pcb and fed the motor from the 12V with a small lm317 power supply in between adjusted to the correct speed but the symptom remained. What do you think it could be? Is it possible that the 12V regulator could be shot and drift voltages thus speeding and slowing the motor?
I know this is a very old video, but I’m having some trouble adjusting the speed of my deck. It’s the one featured in the video and whenever I put my screwdriver in the hole on the motor it just stops. Is there anything I may be doing wrong?
Nice repair, this deck looks just like by K-340. I actually quite like, it, not complicated and produces a good sound. The dolby IC isn't great I think though. I had to replace the counterbelt in my machine which had turned to goo. Adjusted the speed as running slightly slow and tweaked playback levels for better dolby.
Hitachi used the same type of belts on ther VCRs in the 80s. I once got my hands on a portable 1984 VT-8E and all the belts were turned to goo. Spent hours to clean my hands and the machine.
Very good with sound YAMAHA . So the old YAMAHA have those little plastic clips instead of screws . Has anyone seen the tape deck door on all the latest decks ?
I have a deck just like this and it sat in the garage for 10 or more years and when I press play nothing happens. If I press fast forward or rewind, the capsan does spin though. Any idea what the problem is?
So why did they use counter belts that turn to grease ? I’m thinking if I can find the right size rubber band it would outlast those stupid grease belts . What did you use for a replacement belt ? The video skips right over that part .
What the tone tape. It was recorded on a calibrated deck, a 440hz tone which is the music note "A". A guitar tuner shows if sharp or flat and speed adjustment is made to get it dead on, or a frequency counter is used to set the speed to 440. My digital scope has frequency display so I quite often use that.
The consumer version of Dolby SR noise reduction. Dolby S-type noise reduction was derived from Dolby SR, and shares with it such developments as combining both fixed and sliding bands, anti-saturation, spectral skewing and modulation control. As a licensed technology (although Dolby makes professional S-type encoding equipment), it provides 24 dB of noise reduction at high frequencies and 10 dB at low frequencies. Modern high-end cassette decks generally contain Dolby S-type and give the home consumer the ability to make cassette tapes that sound like nearly as good as CD’s.
I am not really that great at cassette deck repair as I am other things as my repair career and knowledge sorta started after the death of these things. So, these little tech tips come in handy. I had a cassette deck once that would start off crystal clear and then go muffled, basically the loss of highs, within a second of playing, I never did figure out that issue. tried to clean and demagnetize but it didn't help. My Pioneer CT-F900 sorta has this issue although not as bad.
@@12voltvids Ah. That would make sense. I was wondering if the "U" had some hidden features that I was not party to but it's probably just a 120V unit.
KX-300 is one of the best sounding/best value 2-head decks ever made. It has quite the cult following on tapeheads.net. Yamaha made a lot of decks with dbx.
True , they also made the best rubber compounds . Pinchrollers are always flat en driving belts also very good and durable . Except the pinchrollers of the KX 400 serie , They become glossy and shiny
@@12voltvids Not yet, I watched your video about how to make a demagnetizing tool but I have a 20 volts power supply and you mentioned that 18 volts is already to high. Can I use 20 volts or it will be too much? Thanks
@@SIBERIANDEATH You can use any voltage you want (must be an AC output not DC) just wind many more turns onto the steel nut and use a finer gauge of magnet wire. For the gauge I used 12 volts would be more than enough. At 18 it gets warm relatively quickly when I turn it on. More turns of a thiner gauge of wire would solve that. For that matter if you put enough turns of wire you could power it with mains voltage.
Funny you mentioned DBX my V-2rx has dbx, if you listen to a dbx recorded tape with dbx turned off it sounds like it has no bass and very tinny, on the other hand if you listen to a non dbx tape with dbx turned on the sound is all over the place, the volume will constantly rise and fall and sometimes the bass will punch you in the face without warning :P
Most of my CFL's are 6= years old, I am just now starting to replace them with LED, the have lasted a much longer time than I expected, I can still remember my Father putting 100w bulbs in all of his reading lamps as he aged, good God those old style bulbs could put out the heat, I don't miss them, we can still buy them in the states, but they are all 40w or less. Nice video, is it just me or does the Dolby muffle the highs? I never cared for Dolby I used metal tapes and loved the sound quality.
Well they always claimed 8 years on the box right. I have a few that are pretty old, but many didn't last as long as they claimed. Seems to be the frequency of cycling. Those that were turned on for only a few minutes failed the fastest. This is because all fluorescent lamps have a limited start cycle. Every time you turn them on, a little bit of the coating on the cathode filament is blown off. Once the coating that increases electron emission is gone the lamp can no longer start properly and it fails. This is the same for CCFL tubes in LCD monitors. A monitor will last much longer is left running 24x7 in applications like as a camera monitor, rather than turning it on and off all the time. As to dolby, dolby B increases only the high frequencies by 10db on record and knocks them back by 10db on playback. Of course of the tape can't handle the high frequencies, then on playback the high frequencies will sound reduced. Dolby C does this by 20db, but on a wider range of frequencies. DBX compands the entire audio spectrum. COmpresses everything to half the dynamic range on record, and expands it on playback. Interesting fact. Beta HF and VHS HiFi used an identical system. Beta HiFi actually uses DBX as their noise reduction system The VHS hifi makers used a similar companding system, but not an actual DBX system because they didn't want to pay DBX to use it, however all MTS television signals on the NTSC system DBX was used on the stereo difference signal to increase dynamic range on stereo TV audio. This is one reason that the RF modulator in VCRs was mono, and most outboard modulators were also only mono sound. To incorporate MTS stereo required a license and royalty pe baid for every device that used the chipset A couple of satellite receivers had MTS modulators in them. The Dishnetwork and Bell 9200 PVR did. That was the first dual tuner satelite receiver,and I still have a bell 9200 that today is used as an off air receiver, as even though the satellite subscription has been off for about 10 years, that box had an ATSC off air tuner in it, that is recordable on the internal HDD, so it is an off air DVR. One of the old Chaperral C band sat receivers also had an MTS stsreo modulator, and Radio Shack sold a made in the USA channel 3/4 modulator that was true MTS stereo and of course has the DBX compression. I have one of those too.
I used to use my HIFI VHS deck to record my audio onto VHS at SP speed, the audio was wonderful, now that I am older, my ears don't detect those high freq's as well anymore.
Lack of use is death to mechanical hifi. Keep on using them and they often stay fine. My LX 3 has been in constant use since I got it 2nd hand 18 years ago. I've only replaced the stop lamp on it.
Dolby compresses the high frequencies and makes them louder when recording and reverses this procedure when playing back. So no wonder, that it is sounding strange when you play a Dolby C tape with Dolby C decoder disabled.
Right and Dolby C works on a wider range of frequencies than dolby B which is why it sounds so strange if you listen to a dolby c encoded tape without dolby C turn on.
Like vinyl, cassette tape is coming back as is reel to reel. Of course my favorite of the analog formats is open reel, because it gives you something to do while listening to music. Watch the reels turn.
Very robust mechanism inside. I have a very similar model without bias adjust, and despite pretty high mileage (it was my first and only deck in the 90s) it's still running good with no work ever done. Well, apart from azimuth adjustments.
Luc Peeters Not needed on 2 head deck. Just put in record and the activation of the ac bias will remove any residual magnetism on the head. Like my dremel I loaded my demagnitizer to a friend and never saw it again so I will have to make a new one.
Wow, didn't even realize that but now as you mention it, never too old to learn something. Crap about your stuff. Realized that I might have had a tape of my own in that HI8 machine. Try to find a HI8 deck that is in good condition.
It's not really even necessary on a 3 head deck either. I would use a demagnetiser to ensure my test tapes were safe - but Yamaha did a series of tests, running for thousands of hours and determined there was no issue to deal with?
A clean well adjusted (azimuth etc.) tape path is much more important as is set up for your particular tape formulation, which can reap rewards. (not shown here)
Modern CFLs dont last. my house has utilitech ones from lowes, I got 3 years out of them and they are starting to go out, one by one. they encounter sudden death. Back when you bought your CFLs, they were built to last. They even had a 5 year guarantee on some of them at that time.
Ehh... why didn't you start by removing the whole mechanism? I'm sure it's easier and then remove the black plate when the whole thing is out. Isn't it possible? Also, I actually don't get the fiddling with the Dolby settings... you have to listen to your recording with the exact Dolby version you recorded it with... anything else will be bad. You record with dolby C, play with dolby C. You record without, play it without... Of course if you recorded it with dolby C, switching it off or to B or any other will sound weird.... By the way, you should give Dolby S a go... it can be as good as a CD!!! Otherwise, don't get me wrong!! I love your videos :)))
Yeah the mechanism module is easy to remove provides way better access. I still can't see her totally move that face plate though cuz it's held in place by the door damper shaft.
@@12voltvids Thats what I meant. Is easier to disasseble out of the unit. I have a similar one called KX-200 looks almost identical inside ande out but I think doesnt have dolby HX,
I'm totally in awe of the PCBs in that cassette deck, quite tidy and not a single dust in sight, wow!
Oh my gosh, the memories of cleaning the heads on cassette decks. Always on the lookout for the *good* isopropyl at the store. I was waiting for the q-tip to get pinched between the roller and its post!
I have had a Manufactorer tell me on CFL and regular florescent that every time you turn on any type of florescent bulb , the bulb will lose 3 hours of it life. Also a bad bulb or bad ballast will cause will cause the other to go bad early. Hope that helps. Thanks for the videos, I have learned alot. Keep up the great work !
My parents had an old 15 watt 18" T12 preheat lamp over their kitchen sink. They never turned it off. I remember it well, it was an old warm white bulb. Left it on day and night as a nightlight. It run for over 18 years 24x7. It is very true that turning fluroescent bulbs on is the hardest thing on them. CFL with their electronics will not last as long because capacitors will ultimately fail in the ballast and eventually burn the lamp out, but an old preheat type lamp with a simple magnetic choke type ballast will last for decades if turned on and left on. In my house I have a small circline lamp in my hall, that uses a preheat start ballast. It was installed when the house was built in 2002, and the only time it has been out is during a power failure or when someone flips the wrong switch. So it has been now running for 16 years, and shows no sign of burning out anytime soon, however I have noticed that is it not quite as bright as it once was.
Love your videos, thanks. Yamaha's are my fave to work on have a old receiver from the 90's out of the ewaste I'm restoring. BTW Id loose my mind if I had that much stuff on my workbench... but I wish I had that much stuff to put on my workbench. Always entertaining.
Thanks Dave. Glad to have my KX300 back. Played it today and it sounds very good indeed. Tell us, does cassette tape, or any other for that matter, deteriorate over time? The tapes have sat unplayed for as long as the player, +/- 25 years and yet they sound great.
The deadly gooo belt, at least it was only the tape counter :-D.
I've never heard any cassette recorder that reproduced a tone without frequency wobble, im sure they only work spot on when new.
I liked the big metal cast capstan flywheel units, and a quality soft pinch roller.
Thanks for posting this video it was very helpful. I'm wondering if it would be smart to recheck the speed after you de-gunked the mechanism, which may have affected the pinch roller pressure?
Thank you for sharing this video! I also own a KX300 but lately been facing a problem. The door couldn't close properly, like it doesn't grip the door panel properly. Sometimes it okay
The days when I had to make sure the deck I bought matched the Dolby format my car could playback. I've been looking around in thrift stores for a Technics deck. Not having much luck finding one to match my 90's Technics amplifiers.
Love a good cassette deck repair
Hi I have a sharp QT90 1983 and I m stock with a small problem , on recording deck when I play cassette sont not loud , for full volume its hardly to hear, I change belts and roller , recording perfect but when you play no sound, what happens, pleas help
Great Thumbnail !!! Thumbs up just for that.
Life Whispers
That was UA-cam not me. Started upload and went to bed. It will be changed when I get in computer. Can't fix that in my phone.
Grin... Yeah I already knew.
Nice repair video. Didn't see you select and install the counter belt, though. How did you do the fitment, since the old belt was goo?
Yeah I was gonna ask the same thing . The video skips right past the counter belt replacement . What did you use ? A rubber band that was the right size ? I’ll bet that lasts longer than those stupid things Yamaha used that turn into grease .
Hello , I bought a yamaha KX1200U cassette deck off ebay , it play but no sound coming from the deck. can you help me ? thanks
Nice video. I have a Yamaha K31 but the motor doesnt have a hole for the screwdriver. Anyone know how to adjust this?
I have a TEAC v-2rx that was given to me, the motor would not turn, the tiny incandescent light woudn't turn on and the digital tape counter would not either, it had a blown fuse on the 12V rail.
After replacing the fuse everything would work except for the tiny light which was burnt out (and maybe popped the fuse with it?) anyway I learned that the mechanism depended on the light to shine through the optical sensors because the counter would not advance and it would stop after a second or two.
After replacing that bulb it now works but I noticed there is a speed problem. I adjusted the speed screw to the correct speed after some time (maybe half an hour or so) I noticed the speed got slow suddenly (the music sounded flat), I then corrected the speed and then after some time it got high (music sounded sharp) and I was not able to maintain proper speed as it was shifting up and down.
I even dissasembled the motor to remove the small pcb and fed the motor from the 12V with a small lm317 power supply in between adjusted to the correct speed but the symptom remained.
What do you think it could be? Is it possible that the 12V regulator could be shot and drift voltages thus speeding and slowing the motor?
It sounds more like a slipping belt to me.
I know this is a very old video, but I’m having some trouble adjusting the speed of my deck. It’s the one featured in the video and whenever I put my screwdriver in the hole on the motor it just stops. Is there anything I may be doing wrong?
Nice repair, this deck looks just like by K-340. I actually quite like, it, not complicated and produces a good sound. The dolby IC isn't great I think though. I had to replace the counterbelt in my machine which had turned to goo. Adjusted the speed as running slightly slow and tweaked playback levels for better dolby.
Hitachi used the same type of belts on ther VCRs in the 80s. I once got my hands on a portable 1984 VT-8E and all the belts were turned to goo. Spent hours to clean my hands and the machine.
I can't stand getting belt goo on my hands. Takes aaaages to clean it off, let alone the painstaking process of getting the goo out from pulleys etc.
Very good with sound YAMAHA .
So the old YAMAHA have those little plastic clips instead of screws .
Has anyone seen the tape deck door on all the latest decks ?
I have a deck just like this and it sat in the garage for 10 or more years and when I press play nothing happens. If I press fast forward or rewind, the capsan does spin though. Any idea what the problem is?
The belts need changing, like all of them. Cheap to purchase a kit online.
So why did they use counter belts that turn to grease ?
I’m thinking if I can find the right size rubber band it would outlast those stupid grease belts .
What did you use for a replacement belt ? The video skips right over that part .
I have a Yamaha KX-580 that I bought about ten years ago second hand for £59. It’s the best tape deck that I have ever owned.
if you can could please explain how the signal frequency tells you the speed and how what to do?
What the tone tape.
It was recorded on a calibrated deck, a 440hz tone which is the music note "A". A guitar tuner shows if sharp or flat and speed adjustment is made to get it dead on, or a frequency counter is used to set the speed to 440. My digital scope has frequency display so I quite often use that.
Dave,
Do you have any knowledge you'd care to share about Dolby S? I've got a Sony Dual cassette deck with Dolby S.
Thanks, Tom
The consumer version of Dolby SR noise reduction. Dolby S-type noise reduction was derived from Dolby SR, and shares with it such developments as combining both fixed and sliding bands, anti-saturation, spectral skewing and modulation control. As a licensed technology (although Dolby makes professional S-type encoding equipment), it provides 24 dB of noise reduction at high frequencies and 10 dB at low frequencies. Modern high-end cassette decks generally contain Dolby S-type and give the home consumer the ability to make cassette tapes that sound like nearly as good as CD’s.
Thanks so much for the quick reply. I've got to replace some gooey belts to get my Sony up and running again.
Nice stereo microphone you have in your shop; I can always tell where you are standing.
It's just the microphone on the camera. If my camera had a mic input I would use my wireless lav.
I am not really that great at cassette deck repair as I am other things as my repair career and knowledge sorta started after the death of these things. So, these little tech tips come in handy. I had a cassette deck once that would start off crystal clear and then go muffled, basically the loss of highs, within a second of playing, I never did figure out that issue. tried to clean and demagnetize but it didn't help. My Pioneer CT-F900 sorta has this issue although not as bad.
Can I send you my Yamaha KX-R470? I think it has the same issues as this player?
I'm interested to know what the U stands for in KX-300U.
I have a KX-500 and there was also a KX-500U but I have no idea what the difference was !
Suffix is usually to indicate the intended sales market. E Europe , U USA,. W world (multi voltage)
@@12voltvids
Ah. That would make sense.
I was wondering if the "U" had some hidden features that I was not party to but it's probably just a 120V unit.
KX-300 is one of the best sounding/best value 2-head decks ever made. It has quite the cult following on tapeheads.net. Yamaha made a lot of decks with dbx.
True , they also made the best rubber compounds . Pinchrollers are always flat en driving belts also very good and durable . Except the pinchrollers of the KX 400 serie , They become glossy and shiny
I wish you would calibrate the electronics as well in your videos. But thanks for the stuff!
Nice!! Was that a loose fastener near the motor? @8:35
Yeah I saw that on my unit also I believe it's an adjuster screw for the door opening damper.
Hi: Could you tell what may be the issue when sound is muffled on both channels but the heads are clean and aligned? Thanks
Have you tried demagnetizing the heads.
@@12voltvids Not yet, I watched your video about how to make a demagnetizing tool but I have a 20 volts power supply and you mentioned that 18 volts is already to high. Can I use 20 volts or it will be too much? Thanks
@@SIBERIANDEATH You can use any voltage you want (must be an AC output not DC) just wind many more turns onto the steel nut and use a finer gauge of magnet wire. For the gauge I used 12 volts would be more than enough. At 18 it gets warm relatively quickly when I turn it on. More turns of a thiner gauge of wire would solve that. For that matter if you put enough turns of wire you could power it with mains voltage.
@@12voltvids Thank you so much for your kindly reply, I will try that and see how it goes.
Funny you mentioned DBX my V-2rx has dbx, if you listen to a dbx recorded tape with dbx turned off it sounds like it has no bass and very tinny, on the other hand if you listen to a non dbx tape with dbx turned on the sound is all over the place, the volume will constantly rise and fall and sometimes the bass will punch you in the face without warning :P
Most of my CFL's are 6= years old, I am just now starting to replace them with LED, the have lasted a much longer time than I expected, I can still remember my Father putting 100w bulbs in all of his reading lamps as he aged, good God those old style bulbs could put out the heat, I don't miss them, we can still buy them in the states, but they are all 40w or less. Nice video, is it just me or does the Dolby muffle the highs? I never cared for Dolby I used metal tapes and loved the sound quality.
Well they always claimed 8 years on the box right. I have a few that are pretty old, but many didn't last as long as they claimed. Seems to be the frequency of cycling. Those that were turned on for only a few minutes failed the fastest. This is because all fluorescent lamps have a limited start cycle. Every time you turn them on, a little bit of the coating on the cathode filament is blown off. Once the coating that increases electron emission is gone the lamp can no longer start properly and it fails. This is the same for CCFL tubes in LCD monitors. A monitor will last much longer is left running 24x7 in applications like as a camera monitor, rather than turning it on and off all the time.
As to dolby, dolby B increases only the high frequencies by 10db on record and knocks them back by 10db on playback. Of course of the tape can't handle the high frequencies, then on playback the high frequencies will sound reduced. Dolby C does this by 20db, but on a wider range of frequencies.
DBX compands the entire audio spectrum. COmpresses everything to half the dynamic range on record, and expands it on playback.
Interesting fact. Beta HF and VHS HiFi used an identical system. Beta HiFi actually uses DBX as their noise reduction system The VHS hifi makers used a similar companding system, but not an actual DBX system because they didn't want to pay DBX to use it, however all MTS television signals on the NTSC system DBX was used on the stereo difference signal to increase dynamic range on stereo TV audio. This is one reason that the RF modulator in VCRs was mono, and most outboard modulators were also only mono sound. To incorporate MTS stereo required a license and royalty pe baid for every device that used the chipset A couple of satellite receivers had MTS modulators in them. The Dishnetwork and Bell 9200 PVR did. That was the first dual tuner satelite receiver,and I still have a bell 9200 that today is used as an off air receiver, as even though the satellite subscription has been off for about 10 years, that box had an ATSC off air tuner in it, that is recordable on the internal HDD, so it is an off air DVR.
One of the old Chaperral C band sat receivers also had an MTS stsreo modulator, and Radio Shack sold a made in the USA channel 3/4 modulator that was true MTS stereo and of course has the DBX compression. I have one of those too.
I used to use my HIFI VHS deck to record my audio onto VHS at SP speed, the audio was wonderful, now that I am older, my ears don't detect those high freq's as well anymore.
You can go the the local dollar general And get a 100 Watt bulb
Yes they still sell the illegal bulbs at the dollar store.
Lack of use is death to mechanical hifi. Keep on using them and they often stay fine. My LX 3 has been in constant use since I got it 2nd hand 18 years ago. I've only replaced the stop lamp on it.
good you are the best
Yeach, he is Saddam Bohli :-)
Dolby compresses the high frequencies and makes them louder when recording and reverses this procedure when playing back. So no wonder, that it is sounding strange when you play a Dolby C tape with Dolby C decoder disabled.
Right and Dolby C works on a wider range of frequencies than dolby B which is why it sounds so strange if you listen to a dolby c encoded tape without dolby C turn on.
You service a lot casette decks. Is the casette 'in' again ?
Like vinyl, cassette tape is coming back as is reel to reel.
Of course my favorite of the analog formats is open reel, because it gives you something to do while listening to music. Watch the reels turn.
I have Kx- 300u my transformer burn but I don't no how many outputs voltage plz help if some 1 any idea
I have no idea. I have only ever seen 1 of these units.
What a lovely Deck.I had one of those,Sorry I got rid of it,to get one of those poxy ION USB tape Decks-Sorriest thing I ever Did !!
Very robust mechanism inside. I have a very similar model without bias adjust, and despite pretty high mileage (it was my first and only deck in the 90s) it's still running good with no work ever done. Well, apart from azimuth adjustments.
buy a bottle of spray 9 it takes off the belt residue like water really really works
I wonder if that would be good to use on the pinch roller also?
@@twistedwired pinch roller - windex works and is easier than ipa on rollers.....should hit them with rubber renew after.
Have a kx 580 similar problems but I am no tech guy
And you just turned ya cassette tape into a belt sander 😂🤣
maybe he can use the sander to fix the lights he spends 5 minutes talking about
I just serviced a K-220 Natural Sound. Same issues. Sticky stuff!
Hi. I also have k220. I have issue with counter not working. Is it belt replacement thing?
No demagnitizer?
Luc Peeters
Not needed on 2 head deck. Just put in record and the activation of the ac bias will remove any residual magnetism on the head.
Like my dremel I loaded my demagnitizer to a friend and never saw it again so I will have to make a new one.
Wow, didn't even realize that but now as you mention it, never too old to learn something. Crap about your stuff. Realized that I might have had a tape of my own in that HI8 machine. Try to find a HI8 deck that is in good condition.
They are getting harder to find, as they all have the same capacitor issues.
It's not really even necessary on a 3 head deck either. I would use a demagnetiser to ensure my test tapes were safe - but Yamaha did a series of tests, running for thousands of hours and determined there was no issue to deal with?
A clean well adjusted (azimuth etc.) tape path is much more important as is set up for your particular tape formulation, which can reap rewards. (not shown here)
😊🌟🍀👍
Modern CFLs dont last. my house has utilitech ones from lowes, I got 3 years out of them and they are starting to go out, one by one. they encounter sudden death. Back when you bought your CFLs, they were built to last. They even had a 5 year guarantee on some of them at that time.
Ehh... why didn't you start by removing the whole mechanism? I'm sure it's easier and then remove the black plate when the whole thing is out. Isn't it possible? Also, I actually don't get the fiddling with the Dolby settings... you have to listen to your recording with the exact Dolby version you recorded it with... anything else will be bad. You record with dolby C, play with dolby C. You record without, play it without... Of course if you recorded it with dolby C, switching it off or to B or any other will sound weird....
By the way, you should give Dolby S a go... it can be as good as a CD!!!
Otherwise, don't get me wrong!! I love your videos :)))
Yeah the mechanism module is easy to remove provides way better access. I still can't see her totally move that face plate though cuz it's held in place by the door damper shaft.
So easy to take the transport out on this so no reason to fiddle very much to get the cover plate out without doing it.
When it is jammed like this one was a full disassembly is required to disassemble without breaking or bending something.
@@12voltvids Thats what I meant. Is easier to disasseble out of the unit. I have a similar one called KX-200 looks almost identical inside ande out but I think doesnt have dolby HX,
Looks like you let the cat pick the thumbnail for this video.
Pha Q his cats are royalty
Pha Q
The cat would have done a better job. That was the UA-cam. I am not near a computer now and I can't edit on my phone from the app I have.
hi, i like your video, can you help me...?