driving 4 answers You again? Lol. Rebuilding the front of my 1990 MR2T today for her 30th birthday! Thanks again for the 3S-GTE video and this video too!
That attention to detail is priceless. I really enjoyed this one. I always wondered how that end bushing went together. The one on the side of that large part.
Ya know the biggest problem with this video is it makes me feel like I will have to remove all of my suspension components and powder coat them when I do this. Well, I guess that's not the worst thing in the world. I'll just give you a shout out, hah. Those before and after pictures were like a work of art.
Ikr, that's how it happened to me. Saw some shots from underneath of an aw11 that was all fully restored, you could lick the underbody and not get sick. I just had to do all this after seeing that.
A good impact gun is one of the best purchases I've made. Always always always oil your air tools too! Not only does this extend the life of the tool it also insures a proper air seal within the tool giving you the best performance.
👍 I installed these in stages a few years ago and with each change the difference was noticeable and better in my opinion. Definitely stiffer and faster rebound than the rubber. I had problems not so much with the rust but with removing the old bushings. Burning them out was easier in some cases. Still have not got around to changing the springs and struts yet.
I'm doing this exact job now. I'm happy I found this video to find the orientation of the rear arm bushings. But also u are only supposed to lubricate the pin and mating surfaces, not the part of the bushing that contacts the insides of the arms etc.
If you are fitting poly bushings to harden your suspension, they will certainly do that but don't expect them to last as long as the original ones, I know someone in Canada who very successfully raced Audi A4's for many years and they "tried" poly bushings more than once but they only lasted a season compared to 2-3 seasons from stock bushings and they went back to stock. The only car I know of for which correctly designed poly bushings are available is the Lotus Esprit because Lotus (either towards the end of the model run or even after the car was discontinued) worked closely with a polyurethane bushing manufacturer to redesign the bushings to have sufficient torsional flexibility to not rotate in the housing, i.e. just like stock bushes. They then made these available as an alternate spare. They are an interference fit and are pressed in like the stock ones and do not use lube. They were a design experiment by Lotus to create a more long-lived component rather than a stiffer one, although they are slightly stiffer. The typical aftermarket poly bushes that come with lube are designed to rotate and therefore wear out relatively quickly as compared to stock bushes which eventually fail only due to long-term material degradation. Interference-fit poly bushes are OEM on many buses and trucks where they are used because of the longevity of the material: typically for the design life of the vehicle, which is far greater than that of cars.
I love your channel! I have an AW11 I'm working on and your videos are immensely helpful. I bought the same bushings kit, but I've really been avoiding the task of taking the suspension out for changing them. So who knows, maybe before the year ends it will be done haha. Cheers!
This will be very handy for me since I have the same kit... Just need to actually find time to work on the damned thing! Yours is going to be pretty much perfect when it's done.
so awesome to have found your videos! I don't plan on doing anything crazy to my AW11 4agZe, but this is certainly one! The link for the bushings was a great thing for you to add in. I'm ordering them right now.
except I was wrong. Driving a perfect stock 4agZe Mk11 IS GOOD enough, and maybe collectible enough with stock everything. . . I would love to find a wreck of a mr2 to rehab into a track car. . . but my baby needs real unconditional love.
I've also purchased the same for my AW11, also a red MK1a. It's got a 2zz in it and will be wired up soon, hopefully. Love your videos, hope to get cranking on mine soon
had a 89 mr2 na. loved this car but it had two problems no rear brakes solved with 94 turbo rear caliphers. and slow steering. a company Australia makes quick ratio pinion. loved the rest of the car.
Use a paint pen to match mark your suspension bolts after each one is torqued up. Its a safety check that just about everyone now uses from OEM to speed shop. The super pro bushes available in OZ are softer than Prothane and are in genuine metric sizes. Roughly double the Prothane cost, but in hindsight well worth considering.
but shop press are also dangerous. but only during removal I had one shot down so fast in imbedded itself on the ground. And one that decided to ricochet.. into my shins. :X No damage done, but it still hurts quite a bit
Check out Harbor Freight Xtreme Eearthquake impact. 1190 ft. lbs. torque for removal. It's badass. Only $150. Needed one to remove the crank pulley bolt. Breaker bar wouldn't even touch it. The HF impact took it off like butter. The innards are very stout, also.
I was wondering how long that grease would be good for in keeping the bushings lubed. Would drilling a small hole through the bearing cup and the bushing and tapping the end for a zerk grease fitting be a good idea for periodically keeping the bushings lubed.
Thanks mate. People usually say they are noisier and that there is more vibration. I haven't driven the car much yet, but I haven't noticed any significant noise or vibration
Nice video! You inspired me to do my suspension. The rear trailing arms of the AW11 have a small concave from the factory. Should they be "arched" or vice versa when installing them?
I have seen that normally grease is applied between the parts, but as has been correctly said, they will be exposed to the elements, so is this grease only for assembly or should it somehow lubricate the parts in the future?
d4adude learned a lot from your channel, could you perhaps tell me if your chassis has a matching engine code or is the code always 4a? Im trying to match a chassis with an engine....... thanks beforehand
Did the OEM bushing that you replaced have the metals sleeve around them? Im trying to find out if I can replace a bushing that had a sleeve with a bushing that does not have a sleeve.
My bushings had no sleeves. It really depends, sometimes when you push a bushing out the way I showed in the vid the sleeve will stay in, and then you might be able to install one without a sleeve into the existing sleeve, provided the fit is correct of course.
Hi. Where do I get the tension Rod Bracket ? My car got hit by a drunk and mine is elongated now b over a inch. Any ideas on where I can get a new (or used in perfect condition) bracket from ??
I don't see any rust on my 97 civic, even though it has 236k miles and sits out side all day and night. I just got a complete bushing kit and rebuild kit, hoping I can do it all in a weekend. Only doing the front for now.
I have to ask how did ur strut rods hold up?? I have an sw20 mr2 and pressed all my bushings out and ready for polyurethane. I have read that the problematic one is the one that joins the strut rod and control arm where it makes the L shape. Apparently the strut rod can break when you go polyurethane and that one should be replaced with OEM because it’s softer and the way that bushing acts it needs something not too solid, so my question would be is how has ur car and strut rods held up since then??? Ur answer would greatly be appreciated. Thank you .
Zero issues honestly. I did a few thousand miles so far. Maybe with track use that could happen, or if someone weakened the metal by heating it up too much if they removed the old bushing by burning. Or maybe the sw20 design is different and it's a heavier car, but I'm tempted to assume it's just forum theory or installation error as the suspension components on most old Toyotas are very hard to destroy, with poly or otherwise.
It would be hard and time consuming to make suspension bushings like that because I would need custom pins for each bushing. Plus, the prothane total kit is fairly priced. I diy-ed the polyurethane motor mounts mostly because of cost. I ended up removing the motor mounts because I didn't like them. Way too harsh for the street, great for the track. I have detailed poly vs stock motor mount comparison video. I gave them to a guy that's building some sort of racecar and he chopped them up and welded them. They held up great and will probably last a long time.
Maybe the car is just like that? If not it could be a lot of thing. Your inner or outer tie rods, possibly your ball joints, or maybe even worn steering rack mounts/ bushings. I would start by checking the tie rods.
Yes have the complete set of bushings but I throw out the ones for the steering gear ...too much vibration from the street to your steering...No more comfortable
Prothane total kit for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2OVB0eh
D4A Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a
driving 4 answers
You again? Lol.
Rebuilding the front of my 1990 MR2T today for her 30th birthday!
Thanks again for the 3S-GTE video and this video too!
That attention to detail is priceless. I really enjoyed this one. I always wondered how that end bushing went together. The one on the side of that large part.
Ya know the biggest problem with this video is it makes me feel like I will have to remove all of my suspension components and powder coat them when I do this.
Well, I guess that's not the worst thing in the world. I'll just give you a shout out, hah. Those before and after pictures were like a work of art.
Ikr, that's how it happened to me. Saw some shots from underneath of an aw11 that was all fully restored, you could lick the underbody and not get sick. I just had to do all this after seeing that.
A good impact gun is one of the best purchases I've made. Always always always oil your air tools too! Not only does this extend the life of the tool it also insures a proper air seal within the tool giving you the best performance.
👍 I installed these in stages a few years ago and with each change the difference was noticeable and better in my opinion. Definitely stiffer and faster rebound than the rubber. I had problems not so much with the rust but with removing the old bushings. Burning them out was easier in some cases. Still have not got around to changing the springs and struts yet.
Balkan version of ChrisFix
😂 Amazing.
I have yet to see him use any soapy vodka though
Nice and smooth, ChrisFix seems to be on a coffee or amphetamine high in comparison.
@@sezwo5774 High-energy UA-cam video hosts are much more successful with viewship than mellow. This idea goes beyond YT too of course.
I'm doing this exact job now. I'm happy I found this video to find the orientation of the rear arm bushings. But also u are only supposed to lubricate the pin and mating surfaces, not the part of the bushing that contacts the insides of the arms etc.
If you are fitting poly bushings to harden your suspension, they will certainly do that but don't expect them to last as long as the original ones, I know someone in Canada who very successfully raced Audi A4's for many years and they "tried" poly bushings more than once but they only lasted a season compared to 2-3 seasons from stock bushings and they went back to stock. The only car I know of for which correctly designed poly bushings are available is the Lotus Esprit because Lotus (either towards the end of the model run or even after the car was discontinued) worked closely with a polyurethane bushing manufacturer to redesign the bushings to have sufficient torsional flexibility to not rotate in the housing, i.e. just like stock bushes. They then made these available as an alternate spare. They are an interference fit and are pressed in like the stock ones and do not use lube. They were a design experiment by Lotus to create a more long-lived component rather than a stiffer one, although they are slightly stiffer. The typical aftermarket poly bushes that come with lube are designed to rotate and therefore wear out relatively quickly as compared to stock bushes which eventually fail only due to long-term material degradation. Interference-fit poly bushes are OEM on many buses and trucks where they are used because of the longevity of the material: typically for the design life of the vehicle, which is far greater than that of cars.
Fantastic video. I just bought a set for my 87 MR2 and this is really helpful. Thanks!
Loved this episode. The bushings look so good!
you are very good at these , well done and keep it up
I love your channel! I have an AW11 I'm working on and your videos are immensely helpful. I bought the same bushings kit, but I've really been avoiding the task of taking the suspension out for changing them. So who knows, maybe before the year ends it will be done haha. Cheers!
Idk why but I like watching stuff like this even tho I don't own a car
Imagine how awesome it will be when you get a car. You will know everything already!
Excellent tutorial and great tips. Thanks for sharing!
This will be very handy for me since I have the same kit...
Just need to actually find time to work on the damned thing!
Yours is going to be pretty much perfect when it's done.
Thanks man. Like I told you in the comment on your vid, you're just 1 guy ;)
It's true! Was gonna reply later when I'm done working outside. Lotsa new comments. :)
Thanks as always.
so awesome to have found your videos! I don't plan on doing anything crazy to my AW11 4agZe, but this is certainly one! The link for the bushings was a great thing for you to add in. I'm ordering them right now.
except I was wrong. Driving a perfect stock 4agZe Mk11 IS GOOD enough, and maybe collectible enough with stock everything. . . I would love to find a wreck of a mr2 to rehab into a track car. . . but my baby needs real unconditional love.
I've also purchased the same for my AW11, also a red MK1a. It's got a 2zz in it and will be wired up soon, hopefully.
Love your videos, hope to get cranking on mine soon
Thanks man. Sounds like a seriously cool car man. Good luck with it!
@@d4a wish you the best brother. Great content
supra1722
You ever get it wired up?
Its so satisfying with polyurethane bushings :)
Lovely job on the returb mate.
Your videos are very good mate, I enjoy them a lot.
"if he is not going to play intro i will ask him why" me before playing the video XD really like it. stick with it :)
Ha! Awesome. I'll be making a new one soon. Will try to keep as cool as this one.
had a 89 mr2 na. loved this car but it had two problems no rear brakes solved with 94 turbo rear caliphers. and slow steering.
a company Australia makes quick ratio pinion.
loved the rest of the car.
Use a paint pen to match mark your suspension bolts after each one is torqued up. Its a safety check that just about everyone now uses from OEM to speed shop. The super pro bushes available in OZ are softer than Prothane and are in genuine metric sizes. Roughly double the Prothane cost, but in hindsight well worth considering.
I like your suspension componment color choose !
Well done sir! Didn’t catch where you purchased those from, would like to get some for my st162😉
Amazon :) aw11 prothane total kit
" be prepared for war" -- I agree, 2 hours for one radius arm bush for me, with a hand wrench.
I know your pain!
Nice video. Very helpful!
Great video! Thanks for your help.
but shop press are also dangerous. but only during removal I had one shot down so fast in imbedded itself on the ground. And one that decided to ricochet.. into my shins. :X
No damage done, but it still hurts quite a bit
Love your vids - I get so brave after watching them...I can do it! ...right?
You bet you can! If I can so can you and so can anyone
Very good video
Check out Harbor Freight Xtreme Eearthquake impact. 1190 ft. lbs. torque for removal. It's badass. Only $150. Needed one to remove the crank pulley bolt. Breaker bar wouldn't even touch it. The HF impact took it off like butter. The innards are very stout, also.
Thanks so much! Supper helpful 👍🏾🙏🏾
Did the same on my mr2 but i painted my suspension parts with red. Did it 4 years ago.
Nice intro bro.
I was wondering how long that grease would be good for in keeping the bushings lubed. Would drilling a small hole through the bearing cup and the bushing and tapping the end for a zerk grease fitting be a good idea for periodically keeping the bushings lubed.
Amazing video. Top quality mate.
Are these more noisy on the road than rubber bushings or they are better?
Thanks mate. People usually say they are noisier and that there is more vibration. I haven't driven the car much yet, but I haven't noticed any significant noise or vibration
Dobar poso
Nice video! You inspired me to do my suspension.
The rear trailing arms of the AW11 have a small concave from the factory. Should they be "arched" or vice versa when installing them?
How do you recommend the Poly Bushing Inserts? I'm planning to get it on my S60 Volvo
Haven't driven it yet, but there will be a review video in spring when I drive it :)
I have seen that normally grease is applied between the parts, but as has been correctly said, they will be exposed to the elements, so is this grease only for assembly or should it somehow lubricate the parts in the future?
sweet intro
What is the Intro Song...I like it!
Kiss by Escape
Hey, did the polyurethane bushings start squeaking once you replaced them.
Nope, they never did. It's important to lube them up and they shouldn't squeak
d4adude learned a lot from your channel, could you perhaps tell me if your chassis has a matching engine code or is the code always 4a? Im trying to match a chassis with an engine....... thanks beforehand
The number on the engine starts with 4a but the chassis code doesn't have 4a in it. Starts with JTC and then a bunch of numbers.
Did the OEM bushing that you replaced have the metals sleeve around them? Im trying to find out if I can replace a bushing that had a sleeve with a bushing that does not have a sleeve.
My bushings had no sleeves. It really depends, sometimes when you push a bushing out the way I showed in the vid the sleeve will stay in, and then you might be able to install one without a sleeve into the existing sleeve, provided the fit is correct of course.
found the engine code te be 4a and then 6 digits underneath. wondering if those six digits are linked to the vin
Hi. How does it perform then rubber?
Hi. Where do I get the tension Rod Bracket ? My car got hit by a drunk and mine is elongated now b over a inch. Any ideas on where I can get a new (or used in perfect condition) bracket from ??
I don't see any rust on my 97 civic, even though it has 236k miles and sits out side all day and night. I just got a complete bushing kit and rebuild kit, hoping I can do it all in a weekend. Only doing the front for now.
I have to ask how did ur strut rods hold up?? I have an sw20 mr2 and pressed all my bushings out and ready for polyurethane. I have read that the problematic one is the one that joins the strut rod and control arm where it makes the L shape. Apparently the strut rod can break when you go polyurethane and that one should be replaced with OEM because it’s softer and the way that bushing acts it needs something not too solid, so my question would be is how has ur car and strut rods held up since then??? Ur answer would greatly be appreciated. Thank you .
Zero issues honestly. I did a few thousand miles so far. Maybe with track use that could happen, or if someone weakened the metal by heating it up too much if they removed the old bushing by burning. Or maybe the sw20 design is different and it's a heavier car, but I'm tempted to assume it's just forum theory or installation error as the suspension components on most old Toyotas are very hard to destroy, with poly or otherwise.
driving 4 answers awesome man thank you, I will just try polyurethane and find out for myself as well! Haha . Much appreciated and nice build 👌🏽
Why didn't you make your own bushings like you did with the engine mounts? How are they doing, BTW?? The painted links look really good.
It would be hard and time consuming to make suspension bushings like that because I would need custom pins for each bushing. Plus, the prothane total kit is fairly priced. I diy-ed the polyurethane motor mounts mostly because of cost. I ended up removing the motor mounts because I didn't like them. Way too harsh for the street, great for the track. I have detailed poly vs stock motor mount comparison video. I gave them to a guy that's building some sort of racecar and he chopped them up and welded them. They held up great and will probably last a long time.
how do those bushings feel now? I have seen on forums where people criticize them for restricting suspension movement and cause binding.
I have yet to drive the car, but once I do there will be a full review.
Are these red bushing will they last longer then just the store bought
What’s that product you brushed on the threads that helps seizing bolts
Assembly lube
Thank you for the quick response
What’s the web site to buy the bushing
Ok, you got me....
Nice
I’ve been looking for a reputable polyurethane company for my 03 sequoia any suggestions
Prothane worked great for me honestly
Why didn't I look for this video prior to doing mine? 😫
When my car run through pot hole or speed bracker an impact is feel on steering could you tell me which suspension part issue
Maybe the car is just like that? If not it could be a lot of thing. Your inner or outer tie rods, possibly your ball joints, or maybe even worn steering rack mounts/ bushings. I would start by checking the tie rods.
@driving 4 answers
Please can you tell me
where can I get. POLYURETHANE Bushings for
Chrysler 300 2014 RWD
Thanks Advanced
www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/prothane-packagedeal015
This took me 5 seconds on Google to find
Hehe odlican si ti meni. Sastaviti cemo mi to elektricno auto pa makar ☺😊😆
Stoposto!
Does anyone else hear a lot of static in this video?
No.
Demons are trying to contact u
Do not lubricate the outside of the bushing!
🤙🏼
Don't take the prothane bushings for the steering gear feels horrible when u drive 😉
I've heard good thing about those bushings. You have them on your aw11?
Yes have the complete set of bushings but I throw out the ones for the steering gear ...too much vibration from the street to your steering...No more comfortable