It'll go down once the general public starts getting their hands on this. The framemeister was kind of ahead of its time but it is getting antiquated now.
You can still get them from Solaris Japan? A bit more expensive than when I got mine in 2016 but when they are still available no need to go to the scalpers.
@@Oni64 , sure, if you want back problems and also potentially end up getting squished for lugging around a 46" screen monster, that is, IF you can move it around, anyway.
I love the video. We are definitely going to need some follow ups. I would love to see a comparison between the 5x on the PS2 vs a launch PS3. I also want to see how it upscales consoles like the Wii. Thank you so much for this video.
I love the niche retro gaming videos. I've commented on your channel a few times before, and you always reply to help out. Whenever I'm looking for specific information about my old consoles, you always conveniently have a video that addresses it. Thanks again.
At the moment I have enough with my Framemeister and Mclassic, but honestly this retrotink attracts me. Let's see if anything new is known about the next OSSC to compare products.
OSSC Pro I feel is going to be the end all / be all, but at a significantly higher price. This Retrotink 5X however, while still expensive, is the target of the casual gamer / streamer due to the ease of use, instant resolution handling, and compatibility and will leave people satisfied without the tweaking that the OSSC Pro provides. But I also want to plug the PixelFX Morph, with its HDMI input. It's definitely something to be excited for as well.
honestly, the lack of the smoothing mode kills this for me. The fact that the mClassic doesn't seem to do much with a ps2 through this, and the lack of a smoothing mode, means I can't use it for the one use case it should be perfect for. The ps2 is the only 7th gen console this should be considered for as there are better/equal options for the xbox and GC for much less money, but with no viable anti-aliasing solution we're still stuck with a less than ideal solution. Annoying as I can get a better image out of an n64 than this
@@AdamKoralik I had some ps2 to hdmi converter with the m cable and it looked like composite, then I got some component cables with a 20$ converter to hdmi and now it's playable but I'm still not satisfied lol. I remember it looking so much better with just components on an older and smaller flat-screen before. Thanks for the response by the way 👍
Will official component cables for the PS2/PS3 work without also having to buy the Retrovision cables for the 5x since unless told games will default to 480i?
In your opinion, if I wanted to only use ps2 with component cables, would you say the Retrotink M be best or paying the more expensive 5x? Thanks! Also, things like the eon super 64, would you recommend that over purchasing a retrotink. There are a few different options for n64, gamecube, Dreamcast, and even Xbox that I’ve seen you cover. Are those technically a better alternative to the Retrotink? Thanks again!
I agree VGA would be nice. The work around for my setup is using the DreamCast SCART cable from retro-access. 15kHz/31kHz switch right on the cable. Works great and looks great with no VGA box needed.
This is quite interesting to see a device nearly surpassing the Framemeister in almost every way. Which is good news considering the newer tech and cost of a Framemeister nowadays. This feels like the up scaler I've been waiting to come out!
@Charlie B Which is why you wait and don't buy from resellers who think they can get away with this price gouging. Buying from them only encourages them to keep reselling things at higher prices.
@Charlie B Idk what graphic cards have to do with this conversation (other than having dumb trade tariffs making them more expensive. You have the last president to thank for that one.) or more curiously where you get 3 years from. However what I said still applies even to graphic cards. If for some reason you are still disappointed... well sorry to say your wasting your energy on me. I can't fix price gouging.
I recently got HD RetroVision cables for my Model 2 Genesis, and even straight into my TV, it such such a ridiculous improvement over RF! I have a decent retro collection, but I'm not too serious with it (mostly because I currently don't have any room to expand). In the future, I'd love to pick up this RetroTink with more HD RetroVision cables.
Of course, I bought an OSSC a couple of weeks ago and new stuff starts dropping. Love the OSSC with the HD Retrovision cables though. Haven't had a solution to play my old consoles on our new TV in awhile.
I picked up one of these with a dreamcast scart cable (retro access) included for $20 at a local store over the weekend. Definitely one of the buys of all time.
What's worth noting is that the Framemeister doesn't have an issue with component - it's with 480p. 240p over component is just as good as RGB (tested with Genesis and PS1 on PS2). The FM has a serious horizontal blurring issue with 480p on all inputs, even on the Scart and HDMI inputs, which was the case when routing the Dreamcast through both of those, and the GameCube with component.
I have never believed that the FM was ever build with the idea of supporting 480p sources in mind. Everything was always about native low resolutions and upscaling. I had the ossc cover for that entire field like a champ in most cases, but another thing is now with 2D games getting released on later gen consoles, there's no devices out there to cover them aside from using ossc with a hdmi to vga adapter. Btw, Gunlord X with full cross scanline support on PS4 BABY!!! You'll never see anybody else make an effort to cover it.
Quick question: the RetroTINK 5X's highest resolution is 1440p, but not all capture cards support it. I've read that the Elgato 4K60S+ does not support 1440p period. What happens when you plug the mClassic into the 5X outputting 1440p? Does it upscale the 1440p to 2160p?
@@AdamKoralik I see. I assume the mClassic will at least upscale the 5X's 1080p output to 2160p, right? It seemed to have issues with the OSSC's >2X modes.
So Adam, keep my RGB Scart cables for my Genesis 2 or get the HD Retrovision components? Getting rid of my framemeister. And do I use the mCable for ultimate hookup? And if so which one? Heard they have different ones.
Adam, quick question, have you ever tried using RGB SCART instead of component on the PS2? I always found RGB to produce a much more colourful and cleaner picture than component. You can even get 480p and 1080i to work with RGB SCART, albeit using sync on green. One neat trick I found is that you can send both YPbPr and RGB over SCART with the PS2, so you don't even need to swap cables. The OSSC accepts sync on green and YPbPr through its SCART port, how about the RetroTINK 5X?
Since this new version supports 1440p which is mostly used in pc monitors, the colorspace option makes sense. Most devices run on RGB limited and most TVs are made to run on that mode, recognizing 16 as black and 235 as white, but when you connect to many PC monitors, the image will be washed out since it is expecting for 0 to be black and 255 to be white. Many recent TVs already recognize the modes automatically and besides that, it doesnt offer any color depth advantages even though RGB full is supposed to be a bit better technically than Limited, in practice it is only meant to display correctly on different displays.
Micro USB is just the worst. I hate how it became the standard power connector for small electronics, and I hate it when new devices continue to use it. It's 2021 and micro USB should have gone out with the 2010's.
The “motion adaptive” deinterlacing mode is the one you want to use for consoles that run at 480i because you don’t get that flicker like the bob deinterlacing you get on the OSSC which was annoying. It’s a combination of both “bob” and “weave” deinterlacers. The “motion adaptive” deinterlacer is also a high quality deinterlacer. Adding the mClassic to it can make it better but it’s personal preference. Some people like the mClassic’s benefits, some people don’t.
Does your display have a good deinterlacer for passthru mode? Really good deinterlace would require the set doesn't do image processing and will only introduce lag + make it look worse. I have to look at my settings because I managed to get 480i super sharp and clear without any type of jitter involved.
I didn’t say anything about me having a good deinterlacer on a good display in passthrough mode. All I said was that the motion adaptive deinterlacing mode is the one to use and it’s a high quality deinterlacing method. I never mentioned a word about me having a good deinterlacer on a good display.
Awesome video man! 2 questions if that's alright. I'm planning to get the 5X for my PS1 and PS2. I ordered a Monster PS2/PS3 component cable, will this work well with the Retro Tink 5x? Or Should I get the HD Retrovision Cables? Also, I have a working CECHA-01 PS3, will the 5X give better video on PS2 games, compared to my PS3? I'm also planning to get an MClassic.
a couple of questions: firstly, is there any other upscaler that uses plays through hdmi or is the retrotink 4k pretty much the only other option secondly, what exactly does pairing the mclassic do?
1, you're asking if any scalers support HDMI input? 2, it does better anti-aliasing in my opinion. But it has a specific wheelhouse, mostly 6th Gen consoles.
@@AdamKoralik yes, sorry for the confusion. i noticed that the 4k supports hdmi in, so i wouldn’t need component/composite cables. do you know of any other options that utilize the hdmi in?
@@anthony000izt The Framemeister does. What are you planning to use it for? HDMI in is typically a bonus feature. In the RetroTink 4K's case it's useful for upscaling legacy HDMI content to 4K benchmarks. What are you thinking of using it for?
@@AdamKoralik pretty much anything from ps1 to 360/ps3. i’ll be playing on a 4k oled tv. reason i asked about hdmi is because, prior to looking into upscalers, i’ve been using hdmi conversion cables for all my retro consoles so i’d be able to play them on my newer tv/monitor that don’t support the rgb cables. my theory is that using these conversion cables a compatible upscaler would be better than trying to use my old color coded cables. do you think using the consoles’ original cables would be better? i only ask because $750 is a bit much. i’m just looking for relatively simple way for my old games to look good without breaking the bank
@@anthony000izt Uh, unfortunately there isn't a really a one size fits all solution for retro consoles. I'm not sure what particular HDMI converters you're using, but you're basically adding a device to another device that can introduce lag and visual distortion. Sadly, each console kind of needs its own solution. The most common for 90s era content is RGB capabilities used with RetroTink.
Thanks for explaining in a simple way! You gave a good explanation on the evolution from the first Retrotink device to the 5x. I have a 2x pro and was debating whether to upgrade to a 5x.
Adam. Hi again. Emergency question for you -- after the accident, I'm planning on rebuilding my Dreamcast library. Which do you think is the better route to take, MODE or GDEMU? There's no way I'll ever be able to get the amount of games I had in my collection, and I'd like to avoid disk rot in the future. The plan is to go with the Dreamcase, the new-style controllers, and future proofing as much as I can. I'd just like to know which you personally prefer, between MODE and GDEMU, and why?
Personally, I prefer the MODE because of the larger variety of media support options, the dashboard that comes with it, Atomiswave conversion support, and the availability. The GDEMU is good, but I don't like using SD cards, and the device itself is very rare. The majority of them out there are Chinese clone units which...I would not recommend.
@@AdamKoralik Awesome! Thanks for the quick response. I was scared you were going to say that, honestly ... The MODE doesn't work with the new Dreamcase, but that's fine -- I'll just stick to the original Dreamcast shell. Keep up the great work man, I'm looking forward to the day that you give us an updated tour of your game collection and console stash.
Aside from destroying the signal as you mentioned, cheap converters often introduce an unacceptable amount of input lag. I don't know if you have any way to test, but does the 5X seem to introduce any?
Hey Adam, mCable vs mClassic. which cable do I use for retro consoles and which do I use for the more modern HDMI based consoles? I’m guessing the classic is for retro. Thank you!
I think the pancake analogy would work better if you said the cables are the quality of pan you use. The high end component cables are like a premium pan that will give you an even golden pancake. The yellow composite cable is like an old cheap pan that's rusty, has hot and cold spots, dents, warping, a loose handle, and will unevenly cook your pancake leaving burn marks, rust flakes, and just makes it dry and awful.
I just want to make sure I’m getting this straight before I consider buying this. So for the ps2 all I have to do with the 5x is to set the ps2 in component mode after everything is hooked up via component cables? Do I need to switch between RGB and component modes on the ps2 depending on the game or can I just leave it in component mode? If I leave it in component mode will the 5x “do it’s magic” for games that don’t support 480p but then when I do play a game that is 480p compatible then it’ll just work? I know some games I need to hold down a certain button on the controller to get the 480p mode. Edit: I guess an easier way to ask is you when you hook up the 5x via component cables then all you have to do is set the ps2 to component mode for all ps2 games that are 480i and then games that are 480p compatible will also work?
Hey Adam, had any luck with Sega Master System or Power Base Converter on the RetroTINK 5X? The product description warns about compatibility issues with that system.
The one thing OSSC does that the 5x doesn't have is resolution specific scanlines. I would hope in an update that scanlines could be enabled for 240p sources only. I would also hope for hybrid style scanlines in the future as well. Other than that, Mike Chi, you have outdone yourself to have a worthy replacement for the OSSC and framemeister. I'll gladly wait for those updates because the 5x is my only hope to get SNES on my Picky Sony X900H over RGB or Component.
I keep telling the community that vertical scanlines are vastly important to games and not just emulated looking scanlines that make all the pixel lines look solid clear like they're on an emulator. I've been testing cross scanlines for 2 years to get that line count effect and right now I'm currently adding it to several 2D games coming on newer consoles where they're really needed. Mike isn't beating out Marqs in this game where it comes to some of the more important aspects people haven't even bothered to look at yet.
I don't know if I got a defective retrotink 5x pro, but all I get is static/electrical sounds coming from my speakers, and the mclassic is not compatible with it. Just says no signal when I connect it
To be fair, Component on PS2 is a bad example. PS2 video signal is just bad to begin with regardless if you’re using component just simply because of how poorly Sony implemented it. GameCube component on the other hand is practically the gold standard at least when it comes to the 6th gen consoles
@@bronzin1445 Both consoles + OSSC and hdmi to vga If there's a Tink that accepts 480i/p, then you can use that too! As good as Dreamcast's VGA, whether or not you want to believe it.
What Component Cables did you use? If you used cheap ones you may not be as satisfied, you might notice a difference moreso on a bigger CRT coming from someone who has 2 CRTs one is 14 inches and the other is 28 inches with RGB SCART going from Composite to RGB SCART (Retro Gaming Cables) it's a night and day different especially on the 28 inches, but the bootup screen on the 14 incher does not look much different in my opinion but when you get into the game, it's so much better plus my 14 incher doesn't support NTSC as I have a PAL PlayStation 2 which to use 60Hz you need a display with NTSC (Why Sony?) but you get around that with an RGB SCART cable if your CRT supports PAL60
So this turns a component single to a rgb? I have the 2x pro muliformat with the mclassic with hd retrovision cables and I think it looks pretty good, would this make it look better on my 4k tv..?
@@ozzyozcorn Graphics don't change. I assume you mean resolution or picture clarity. Honestly, it depends on what you're using. The 5X is better than the M, but probably not worth the upgrade unless maybe you're a PS2 super-fan.
I hope for a component only (component input - up to 4k hdmi output) cheaper and more massed produced version happens someday. I'm all about OG Xbox. And have a cheap VGA only version for Dreamcast fanatics. We can dream.
So this new model fixes the problem with using the Sega 32X? I have an old model that just doesn't work with the 32X. The colors are all whacked out, from what I understand it's a sync issue.
I have a ps3 launch edition that plays ps2 and ps1 games. I only use it for those 2 generations. Is the retro tink even needed to improve the quality that the ps3 will put out? I am buying a mclassic because those seem to be awesome no matter what. Basically I am asking is a retrotink needed for my setup. Thank you to all that help.
@@AdamKoralik thanks man. Your videos have been helpful. Upon further review the model I have is the metal gear solid version that has never touched the internet. 80 gb is the one I got. 4 usb slots. The panel that lifts up for other slots I will never use.
21:00 in addition to replacing the Micro USB How about dual HDMI output, each with different settings, so one could have all the scanlines and whatnot to look good on your TV and the other could have the brightness adjusted and look good on capture/streaming
Hey Adam, I’m in the market for a ps2 component cable. Which one do you recommend, the Sony component cable or the HD Retrovision component cable? Just trying to get the absolute best cable I can.
Depends on a lot of factors. The cables I think have a brightness adjustment. But it could also be a setting like RGB color space, try toggling between limited and full.
Very interesting video. The HD RetroVision PS2 cables itself without RetroTink does an excellent job. Is it perfect ? No. I have noticed minor frame rate variation with Resident Evil 1-2 and also that 1 second black screen during loading time. Other than that it looks great. So if you are low on budget just get yourself the cable, you won't regret it. I am not saying RetroTink 5x is a bad product, I just think it's very expensive versus what I get in return.
So I have the first party ps2 component cables is there anything to know with those, do they pretty much do the same thing as the HD Retrovision? Or is there a notable Quality difference?
Just one question about these upscalers. When you use a composite connection, does it preserve the composite effects that the Sega Genesis uses? I.e the extra color effects produced by "smearing" dithering together. Or will it show individual pixels and ruin the effect? You almost showed it in SoR 2 but not quite. :D If you beat the miniboss and go into the bar, the lights will either be a smooth yellow (if using composite on crt) or have sharp, visible dithering if you are on an emulator. I'm assuming it will show the dithering and not the effect due to the nature of flatscreen TV/ monitors but I'm not really a technical guy so IDK. I really want the full retro experience without the bulk of a CRT so I'm kind of holding out hope that this Retrotink can provide the same effects. If anyone knows please drop a reply.
Would you ever recommend using the PS3 with the component cables going through something like this then going through an mclassic or will the hdmi always be superior?
You’re better off with HDMI, though this may work around the HDCP if you were to stream or capture PS3 footage. I could be wrong about that but it’s worth looking into
@Adam Koralik Yup. It's absolute bullshit since on streaming, I can watch the same show in 1080p (although I still prefer to own the disc bc I prefer physical media). I typically play blu-rays on my PS3 and Xbox One S
hey adam I have a question what would be the point of getting a retro tink 5x if the mclassic upscales and it does antialiasing. I really wanted to get a rt5x but i dont see the point if the mclassic works great.
Adam, I don't know if you reply to 5mo old videos, but you always seem to talk about retro vision cables. What about the oem component cables for the ps2, are they just as good??
Pricing aside but in the end as far as picture quality and features what will be best? Pixelfx’s hdmi mods or retro tink 5x , pixel morph or ossc pro. Which offers best quality/features a box or mod kit?
Hi, I have a question. I just purchased the retrotink 5x recently. I was wondering why the sound cuts out after the video image changes from when a cutscene starts for example . is there a solution to this. im having this issue playing ps1 games. Cheers
@@AdamKoralik i spoke with others who had the same problem. they said its because the resolution changes on the ps1. its very annoying as i love the ps1. ill see if i can get in contact with mike chi and see what he says.
Good to see this just keeps getting better and better. And it's great that the Sega Saturn finally has something that can handle its resolution changes better than anything we have to date. Too bad he didn't use USB-C on the cable connection though. Also, I like PANCAKES with milk not urine. So, USE THE BEST POSSIBLE CABLES FOR THE CONSOLE PEOPLE! Oh yeah. Great work, as always Adam!
@10:29 Depends on what program you're using for capture too. With Elgato there are three stages of full vs limited output in OBS. One in configure video under properties, second is in properties, third is in video output. Also with OBS, the colour space of your output folder can really mess with video players like VLC and Windows Media Player, as well as video editing software. I444 in OBS crushes everything to hell in Premiere Pro for instance. Have you tried REcentral 4? it's simple compared to OBS, but it doesn't matter much if you're editing in post anyway. Edit: just to add, if you have problems with REcentral stretching to 16:9, you just need to use this formula in reference to scale width to get it corrected: (original res)/(16:9) so if 4:3 got stretched to 16:9 for example: (4/3)/(16/9)=0.75 = 75% scale width for 3:2: (3/2)/(16/9)= 0.84375 = 84.4% 352x240(Saturn): (356/240)/(16/9) = 0.825 = 82.5%(although 4:3 is more correct)
@@Nosirrl4747 I personally wouldn't recommend that. Component switch boxes are famously not good. Honestly, it depends on how much you care/willing to spend.
I’m asking if games that you already set in 16:9 and the whole screen is already filled, but the game itself has black borders despite it being at 16:9, if you can zoom in even further to get rid of the black borders the game naturally has?
Hey Adam! Awesome video! Have you tried this device with modern 4K TV? By example, My 2016 Samsung 4K is no compatible with 480p / 720p and wondering if 1080p mode will work for PS2 games. Thanks!
Great video man. I have the LevelHike PS2 HDMI cable, makes the picture look pretty damn sharp. Thoughts on how much of a jump in video quality I can expect if I go from LevelHike to RetroTink 5X? If you've heard of/tried out the LevelHike products that is
LevelHike products are mostly trash. You can look that up about them, they're not well reviewed. The RetroTink 5X is in every way superior. But it's still the PS2, you're not ever going to be impressed.
Micro USB does suck but this isn't gonna be like a phone where you are constantly plugging and unplugging it, so it should be okay for stuff like this. Not nearly as much of a risk of the port getting damaged.
The only way to save the port is to keep unplugging at the base of the power outlet, otherwise I'd only unplug when moving it. Sucks though. Even Marqs knows enough to suggest a good power supply.
Considering buying a ps3 cecha01 but worried about reliability wondering if it’s all that much better then a setup like this for a modern display? I know of a older video regarding ps2 and how to get the most from its picture quality and ps3 Cecha01 was your recommendation just wondering if that has changed? Thanks!
1) Dope shirt. 2) Shout-out for the pancake reference. 3) I've been extensively researching the best way to connect my PS2 (and other consoles) with my LG CX tv. It's between this or buying a backwards compatible PS3. Great stuff man! I didn't know this was out. I've seen the reviews on the other Retrotinks. Major shout-out to Mike. PS those HD RV cables are tough to come across!
I got mine in the mail today. I love this! So easy to use, great options. I had the retrotink scart 2x, then moved to the OSSC. Once I got this, I'll never go back. Picture looks incredible on saturn and ps1 so far. Threw my OSSC out the window.
Hello Adam I have a question about rgb bnc cable's, I have a crt with component input and don't want to spend 50 bucks on a scart to component converter, so I was wondering if I could use those individual bnc female to RCA male converters for red green and blue but what would I do with the black sync?
@@AdamKoralik Thanks. Havent seen those cables, I think one option could be the HD Retrovision Genesis component cable, and there is a PS1 adapter for it.
Yes, it does. As I said, problem is capturing this stuff kind of eliminated the subtleties. Looking better boils down to....preference. I'd say yes, but I miss the smoothing, however that's compensated by the mClassic.
So how would using a retrotink to hdmi compare to just using the chimeric HD adapter for xbox? If I have the OEM component for the original xbox and I use retrotink with mclassic or without it will it look better or worse than original xbox with chimeric HD? Could maybe try them both with ans without the mclassic to see if there is any difference 🤔 Another thing is what settings would I put down to get the best picture quality?
Honestly, that boils down to convenience. The Chimeric adapter is probably better for the OG Xbox in the sense that it was built specifically for that purpose. However, the RetroTink 5X, when utilized properly, I'm sure would offer you the same image with more options. But, you need all the pieces and the space the house it. But in terms of actual performance one VS the other, I doubt there's much difference.
@@AdamKoralik Hey thank you very much sir! I really appreciate the advice! Sounds like you can't go wrong with either and you'll get a comparable experience. Only shame is having to wait for availability since they're both out of stock at the moment but I think a retrotink will suit my needs just fine. Looks really nice. Retrotink will be stocking up soon it seems. Thanks again!
@@AdamKoralik I don't know much about display image. Like is there an optimum method. Should you not use the Super 64 and just use the standard cables with the retrotink 5x then add in the mClassic? Is the Super64 with and HDMI even compatible through the retrotink 5x?
@@C-Murph Right, that's why I'm asking what you're suggesting. Short answer, no. The RetroTink 5X doesn't have HDMI input. The core of the Super 64 is just an older RetroTink model. So, you'd either keep the Super 64 to mClassic setup, or go with a RetroTink 5X to mClassic setup, but not all three.
@@AdamKoralik ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ok. My bad. So, its best for unmodified older gen systems with composite/scart for best image. Ok, i get it now. But you can still tack on the mClassic for a slightly buffed up image. Make sense. I still could use one of these though.
People trying to keep the framemeister expensive on ebay are sad.
It'll go down once the general public starts getting their hands on this. The framemeister was kind of ahead of its time but it is getting antiquated now.
You can still get them from Solaris Japan? A bit more expensive than when I got mine in 2016 but when they are still available no need to go to the scalpers.
No reason to buy that junk, especially when it adds a lot of input lag. This is much better.
I got my 5X up and running today and it's great. A bit on the pricey side but you definitely get what you pay for, and it delivers.
But Adam, if the yellow cable is a long story we have time. So we went from an omelet with rotten eggs, to pancakes with urine, cooking with Adam.
Adam is the type of guy who puts a ruler under his pillow to see how long he slept.
Seems....legit.
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
That food analogy was so freaking stupid, I love it.
This is exactly what I needed like 4 months ago lol since then I just went out and picked up a CRT glad people have a proper solution though
Also love u Adam you beautiful bearded man
Cant go wrong with a working CRT
I was gonna buy a CRT but the good quality ones are $500 and above, so I rather just get this lol
@@Oni64 , sure, if you want back problems and also potentially end up getting squished for lugging around a 46" screen monster, that is, IF you can move it around, anyway.
@@paxhumana2015 Yea its a pain. always good to have help when carrying anything 32 inch and over.
I love the video. We are definitely going to need some follow ups. I would love to see a comparison between the 5x on the PS2 vs a launch PS3. I also want to see how it upscales consoles like the Wii. Thank you so much for this video.
I love the niche retro gaming videos. I've commented on your channel a few times before, and you always reply to help out. Whenever I'm looking for specific information about my old consoles, you always conveniently have a video that addresses it.
Thanks again.
My pleasure.
I’m dead!!! URINE? And Adams pause right after. Hilarious!
At the moment I have enough with my Framemeister and Mclassic, but honestly this retrotink attracts me. Let's see if anything new is known about the next OSSC to compare products.
This may just be the device I've been waiting for.
OSSC Pro I feel is going to be the end all / be all, but at a significantly higher price. This Retrotink 5X however, while still expensive, is the target of the casual gamer / streamer due to the ease of use, instant resolution handling, and compatibility and will leave people satisfied without the tweaking that the OSSC Pro provides.
But I also want to plug the PixelFX Morph, with its HDMI input. It's definitely something to be excited for as well.
@@alucard971 is PixelFx Morph where you take it to someone or a shop, and they open the console, like an N64, and solder it?
@@tonyrd43 No. PixelFX Morph is another scaler coming from PixelFX. www.pixelfx.co/content/morph_roadmap.html
@@alucard971 how do I buy it? I don't see any way to buy it?
honestly, the lack of the smoothing mode kills this for me. The fact that the mClassic doesn't seem to do much with a ps2 through this, and the lack of a smoothing mode, means I can't use it for the one use case it should be perfect for. The ps2 is the only 7th gen console this should be considered for as there are better/equal options for the xbox and GC for much less money, but with no viable anti-aliasing solution we're still stuck with a less than ideal solution. Annoying as I can get a better image out of an n64 than this
I need to revise this comment now as I believe Mike Chi has added the smoothing mode in a firmware update - what a legend
Just bought mine through your link man, can't wait for my ps2 to look amazing
Amazing? No. Less bad. It's still the PS2.
@@AdamKoralik I had some ps2 to hdmi converter with the m cable and it looked like composite, then I got some component cables with a 20$ converter to hdmi and now it's playable but I'm still not satisfied lol. I remember it looking so much better with just components on an older and smaller flat-screen before. Thanks for the response by the way 👍
Will official component cables for the PS2/PS3 work without also having to buy the Retrovision cables for the 5x since unless told games will default to 480i?
Yeah, the HD Retrovision ones are just better.
In your opinion, if I wanted to only use ps2 with component cables, would you say the Retrotink M be best or paying the more expensive 5x? Thanks!
Also, things like the eon super 64, would you recommend that over purchasing a retrotink. There are a few different options for n64, gamecube, Dreamcast, and even Xbox that I’ve seen you cover. Are those technically a better alternative to the Retrotink? Thanks again!
It's not really an all in one solution. Due to how wide the retro pool is, you kind of need the right pieces to go with it.
1st mothers day without your mom. I hope all is well Adam. Keep up the great work.
i’m glad this thing exists i’m sure overtime with firmware updates it’s only gona get better
Would love to see how good _Gran Turismo 4_ looks with this device.
Hoping he adds VGA to the next version for the dreamcast and also a HDMI passthrough would be nice.
I agree VGA would be nice. The work around for my setup is using the DreamCast SCART cable from retro-access. 15kHz/31kHz switch right on the cable. Works great and looks great with no VGA box needed.
I use a toro box which has vga and scart out :)
Im waiting patiently to see how the hd retrovision dreamcast component cables turn out
This is quite interesting to see a device nearly surpassing the Framemeister in almost every way. Which is good news considering the newer tech and cost of a Framemeister nowadays. This feels like the up scaler I've been waiting to come out!
@Charlie B Which is why you wait and don't buy from resellers who think they can get away with this price gouging. Buying from them only encourages them to keep reselling things at higher prices.
@Charlie B Idk what graphic cards have to do with this conversation (other than having dumb trade tariffs making them more expensive. You have the last president to thank for that one.) or more curiously where you get 3 years from. However what I said still applies even to graphic cards. If for some reason you are still disappointed... well sorry to say your wasting your energy on me. I can't fix price gouging.
I recently got HD RetroVision cables for my Model 2 Genesis, and even straight into my TV, it such such a ridiculous improvement over RF! I have a decent retro collection, but I'm not too serious with it (mostly because I currently don't have any room to expand). In the future, I'd love to pick up this RetroTink with more HD RetroVision cables.
Of course, I bought an OSSC a couple of weeks ago and new stuff starts dropping. Love the OSSC with the HD Retrovision cables though. Haven't had a solution to play my old consoles on our new TV in awhile.
I picked up one of these with a dreamcast scart cable (retro access) included for $20 at a local store over the weekend.
Definitely one of the buys of all time.
If I meet Adam K and he asks me if I want a omelette or pancakes I'll just decline
What's worth noting is that the Framemeister doesn't have an issue with component - it's with 480p. 240p over component is just as good as RGB (tested with Genesis and PS1 on PS2). The FM has a serious horizontal blurring issue with 480p on all inputs, even on the Scart and HDMI inputs, which was the case when routing the Dreamcast through both of those, and the GameCube with component.
Valid point.
I have never believed that the FM was ever build with the idea of supporting 480p sources in mind. Everything was always about native low resolutions and upscaling.
I had the ossc cover for that entire field like a champ in most cases, but another thing is now with 2D games getting released on later gen consoles, there's no devices out there to cover them aside from using ossc with a hdmi to vga adapter.
Btw, Gunlord X with full cross scanline support on PS4 BABY!!! You'll never see anybody else make an effort to cover it.
Quick question: the RetroTINK 5X's highest resolution is 1440p, but not all capture cards support it. I've read that the Elgato 4K60S+ does not support 1440p period. What happens when you plug the mClassic into the 5X outputting 1440p? Does it upscale the 1440p to 2160p?
It'll remain 1440p.
@@AdamKoralik I see. I assume the mClassic will at least upscale the 5X's 1080p output to 2160p, right? It seemed to have issues with the OSSC's >2X modes.
Nice! This is what I was waiting for. An all around solid all-in-one upscaler
So Adam, keep my RGB Scart cables for my Genesis 2 or get the HD Retrovision components? Getting rid of my framemeister. And do I use the mCable for ultimate hookup? And if so which one? Heard they have different ones.
All a matter of personal preference to be honest.
Adam, quick question, have you ever tried using RGB SCART instead of component on the PS2? I always found RGB to produce a much more colourful and cleaner picture than component. You can even get 480p and 1080i to work with RGB SCART, albeit using sync on green. One neat trick I found is that you can send both YPbPr and RGB over SCART with the PS2, so you don't even need to swap cables. The OSSC accepts sync on green and YPbPr through its SCART port, how about the RetroTINK 5X?
Since this new version supports 1440p which is mostly used in pc monitors, the colorspace option makes sense. Most devices run on RGB limited and most TVs are made to run on that mode, recognizing 16 as black and 235 as white, but when you connect to many PC monitors, the image will be washed out since it is expecting for 0 to be black and 255 to be white. Many recent TVs already recognize the modes automatically and besides that, it doesnt offer any color depth advantages even though RGB full is supposed to be a bit better technically than Limited, in practice it is only meant to display correctly on different displays.
In 5 years from now: "Sony is re-releasing the PS2 with an RTX 4080Ti in it!...Annnnnnddddd...it still looks horrible. I don't get it."
PS2 Classic!
Micro USB is just the worst. I hate how it became the standard power connector for small electronics, and I hate it when new devices continue to use it. It's 2021 and micro USB should have gone out with the 2010's.
I can't wait for mine 5X. Thanks for showing how it works with PS2 (I bought it just for PS2).
I bought the multi format just for PS2 right before this came out I'm very happy with it and it's cheaper than this device
So do you consider the 5X a worthy replacement if we have the 2X-Scart and Pro?
Depends on your needs to be honest.
The “motion adaptive” deinterlacing mode is the one you want to use for consoles that run at 480i because you don’t get that flicker like the bob deinterlacing you get on the OSSC which was annoying. It’s a combination of both “bob” and “weave” deinterlacers. The “motion adaptive” deinterlacer is also a high quality deinterlacer. Adding the mClassic to it can make it better but it’s personal preference. Some people like the mClassic’s benefits, some people don’t.
Does your display have a good deinterlacer for passthru mode? Really good deinterlace would require the set doesn't do image processing and will only introduce lag + make it look worse. I have to look at my settings because I managed to get 480i super sharp and clear without any type of jitter involved.
I didn’t say anything about me having a good deinterlacer on a good display in passthrough mode. All I said was that the motion adaptive deinterlacing mode is the one to use and it’s a high quality deinterlacing method. I never mentioned a word about me having a good deinterlacer on a good display.
I'm curious to see how the internal PS2 HDMI mod would turn out.
Adam's face when someone asks why it looks bad on their 📺 👺 jajajajaja
Hey Adam, question. Would you rather use hd retrovision component cables or Rgb Scart packapunch pro cables via retrotink 5x pro? Or does it matter?
On what system, the PS2?
hd retrovision's ps2 cables are a full component cable, not their typical RGB to component fare, they already support 480p
The resolution is determined by the console, but yes, they do support it.
@@AdamKoralik How well do they hold up to Sony's official brands? I only start to get the ghost lines when I output 1080p via an older console
And here I am two weeks out from publishing my first video on the OG RetroTink2X. Great video!
My question is, do you need to modify your PS2 to have an HDMI input or an HDMI adapter like PS2 to HDMI would work in this case?
If you mean those cheap cables you attach to the system, no they don't require modification. But be warned, those cables suck.
@@AdamKoralik Thank you for the reply!
Hey Adam, have you ever done a comparison of a cheap ps2 component cable vs retrovision ones? Are they worth the 10x price difference?
Short answer, yes.
Awesome video man! 2 questions if that's alright.
I'm planning to get the 5X for my PS1 and PS2.
I ordered a Monster PS2/PS3 component cable, will this work well with the Retro Tink 5x? Or Should I get the HD Retrovision Cables?
Also, I have a working CECHA-01 PS3, will the 5X give better video on PS2 games, compared to my PS3?
I'm also planning to get an MClassic.
Monster cables will work.
I'd use the PS3 with the mClassic.
@@AdamKoralik
Thanks!
a couple of questions:
firstly, is there any other upscaler that uses plays through hdmi or is the retrotink 4k pretty much the only other option
secondly, what exactly does pairing the mclassic do?
1, you're asking if any scalers support HDMI input?
2, it does better anti-aliasing in my opinion. But it has a specific wheelhouse, mostly 6th Gen consoles.
@@AdamKoralik yes, sorry for the confusion. i noticed that the 4k supports hdmi in, so i wouldn’t need component/composite cables. do you know of any other options that utilize the hdmi in?
@@anthony000izt The Framemeister does. What are you planning to use it for? HDMI in is typically a bonus feature. In the RetroTink 4K's case it's useful for upscaling legacy HDMI content to 4K benchmarks.
What are you thinking of using it for?
@@AdamKoralik pretty much anything from ps1 to 360/ps3. i’ll be playing on a 4k oled tv. reason i asked about hdmi is because, prior to looking into upscalers, i’ve been using hdmi conversion cables for all my retro consoles so i’d be able to play them on my newer tv/monitor that don’t support the rgb cables. my theory is that using these conversion cables a compatible upscaler would be better than trying to use my old color coded cables. do you think using the consoles’ original cables would be better? i only ask because $750 is a bit much. i’m just looking for relatively simple way for my old games to look good without breaking the bank
@@anthony000izt Uh, unfortunately there isn't a really a one size fits all solution for retro consoles.
I'm not sure what particular HDMI converters you're using, but you're basically adding a device to another device that can introduce lag and visual distortion.
Sadly, each console kind of needs its own solution. The most common for 90s era content is RGB capabilities used with RetroTink.
Thanks for explaining in a simple way! You gave a good explanation on the evolution from the first Retrotink device to the 5x. I have a 2x pro and was debating whether to upgrade to a 5x.
Adam. Hi again. Emergency question for you -- after the accident, I'm planning on rebuilding my Dreamcast library. Which do you think is the better route to take, MODE or GDEMU? There's no way I'll ever be able to get the amount of games I had in my collection, and I'd like to avoid disk rot in the future. The plan is to go with the Dreamcase, the new-style controllers, and future proofing as much as I can. I'd just like to know which you personally prefer, between MODE and GDEMU, and why?
Personally, I prefer the MODE because of the larger variety of media support options, the dashboard that comes with it, Atomiswave conversion support, and the availability.
The GDEMU is good, but I don't like using SD cards, and the device itself is very rare. The majority of them out there are Chinese clone units which...I would not recommend.
@@AdamKoralik Awesome! Thanks for the quick response. I was scared you were going to say that, honestly ... The MODE doesn't work with the new Dreamcase, but that's fine -- I'll just stick to the original Dreamcast shell. Keep up the great work man, I'm looking forward to the day that you give us an updated tour of your game collection and console stash.
Aside from destroying the signal as you mentioned, cheap converters often introduce an unacceptable amount of input lag. I don't know if you have any way to test, but does the 5X seem to introduce any?
Nah, it's solid.
Hey Adam, mCable vs mClassic. which cable do I use for retro consoles and which do I use for the more modern HDMI based consoles? I’m guessing the classic is for retro. Thank you!
My mClassic review should be helpful. But short answer, mClassic is what I use for everything now.
I think the pancake analogy would work better if you said the cables are the quality of pan you use. The high end component cables are like a premium pan that will give you an even golden pancake. The yellow composite cable is like an old cheap pan that's rusty, has hot and cold spots, dents, warping, a loose handle, and will unevenly cook your pancake leaving burn marks, rust flakes, and just makes it dry and awful.
I just want to make sure I’m getting this straight before I consider buying this. So for the ps2 all I have to do with the 5x is to set the ps2 in component mode after everything is hooked up via component cables? Do I need to switch between RGB and component modes on the ps2 depending on the game or can I just leave it in component mode? If I leave it in component mode will the 5x “do it’s magic” for games that don’t support 480p but then when I do play a game that is 480p compatible then it’ll just work? I know some games I need to hold down a certain button on the controller to get the 480p mode.
Edit: I guess an easier way to ask is you when you hook up the 5x via component cables then all you have to do is set the ps2 to component mode for all ps2 games that are 480i and then games that are 480p compatible will also work?
Hey Adam, had any luck with Sega Master System or Power Base Converter on the RetroTINK 5X? The product description warns about compatibility issues with that system.
No? But I didn't test that extensively to be honest.
The one thing OSSC does that the 5x doesn't have is resolution specific scanlines. I would hope in an update that scanlines could be enabled for 240p sources only. I would also hope for hybrid style scanlines in the future as well. Other than that, Mike Chi, you have outdone yourself to have a worthy replacement for the OSSC and framemeister. I'll gladly wait for those updates because the 5x is my only hope to get SNES on my Picky Sony X900H over RGB or Component.
I keep telling the community that vertical scanlines are vastly important to games and not just emulated looking scanlines that make all the pixel lines look solid clear like they're on an emulator.
I've been testing cross scanlines for 2 years to get that line count effect and right now I'm currently adding it to several 2D games coming on newer consoles where they're really needed. Mike isn't beating out Marqs in this game where it comes to some of the more important aspects people haven't even bothered to look at yet.
I don't know if I got a defective retrotink 5x pro, but all I get is static/electrical sounds coming from my speakers, and the mclassic is not compatible with it. Just says no signal when I connect it
I use CRT for PS2 and it looks great, never been too impressed with component
Well, to each their own.
To be fair, Component on PS2 is a bad example. PS2 video signal is just bad to begin with regardless if you’re using component just simply because of how poorly Sony implemented it.
GameCube component on the other hand is practically the gold standard at least when it comes to the 6th gen consoles
Component through the right device at native resolution will change your mind.
@@bronzin1445 Both consoles + OSSC and hdmi to vga
If there's a Tink that accepts 480i/p, then you can use that too! As good as Dreamcast's VGA, whether or not you want to believe it.
What Component Cables did you use? If you used cheap ones you may not be as satisfied, you might notice a difference moreso on a bigger CRT coming from someone who has 2 CRTs one is 14 inches and the other is 28 inches with RGB SCART going from Composite to RGB SCART (Retro Gaming Cables) it's a night and day different especially on the 28 inches, but the bootup screen on the 14 incher does not look much different in my opinion but when you get into the game, it's so much better plus my 14 incher doesn't support NTSC as I have a PAL PlayStation 2 which to use 60Hz you need a display with NTSC (Why Sony?) but you get around that with an RGB SCART cable if your CRT supports PAL60
What PS2 SCART settings do you use for the Retrotink 5X? I just got mine and it doesn’t seem to be much better than the OSSC.
I use component.
So this turns a component single to a rgb? I have the 2x pro muliformat with the mclassic with hd retrovision cables and I think it looks pretty good, would this make it look better on my 4k tv..?
No, not component to RGB.
@@AdamKoralik would this make my graphics better than the 2x muliformat I have currently?
@@ozzyozcorn Graphics don't change.
I assume you mean resolution or picture clarity.
Honestly, it depends on what you're using. The 5X is better than the M, but probably not worth the upgrade unless maybe you're a PS2 super-fan.
I hope for a component only (component input - up to 4k hdmi output) cheaper and more massed produced version happens someday. I'm all about OG Xbox. And have a cheap VGA only version for Dreamcast fanatics. We can dream.
So this new model fixes the problem with using the Sega 32X? I have an old model that just doesn't work with the 32X. The colors are all whacked out, from what I understand it's a sync issue.
Can't say I ever had that issue. Are you using composite or what?
@@AdamKoralik I was using composite since I can't afford component at the time
@@alicesavage69420 Yeah, that's your problem right there. When you can, upgrade and your problem will be solved.
I have a ps3 launch edition that plays ps2 and ps1 games. I only use it for those 2 generations. Is the retro tink even needed to improve the quality that the ps3 will put out? I am buying a mclassic because those seem to be awesome no matter what. Basically I am asking is a retrotink needed for my setup. Thank you to all that help.
If you're using the fat 60 GB PS3, no, you won't need the RetroTink.
@@AdamKoralik thanks man. Your videos have been helpful. Upon further review the model I have is the metal gear solid version that has never touched the internet. 80 gb is the one I got. 4 usb slots. The panel that lifts up for other slots I will never use.
21:00 in addition to replacing the Micro USB
How about dual HDMI output, each with different settings, so one could have all the scanlines and whatnot to look good on your TV and the other could have the brightness adjusted and look good on capture/streaming
Maybe a stupid question here but does this upscale 480p and 720p content say from the original Xbox or does it just pass it through
480p upscale, 720p passthrough.
@@AdamKoralik That 1440p mode getting some impressive use I see.... Mike should update!
Hey Adam, I’m in the market for a ps2 component cable. Which one do you recommend, the Sony component cable or the HD Retrovision component cable?
Just trying to get the absolute best cable I can.
HD Retrovision.
@@AdamKoralik Thx!
Hey Adam, do you think its worth going from a 2x Multiformat to a 5x-Pro if you only play on PS2?
Depends on how you have it connected.
@@AdamKoralik Care to elaborate a bit? Currently my setup is ps2 - OEM Sony silver and gold component cables - 2x M into a 4k TV.
Actually that sounds pretty good. It's technically an upgrade, but I doubt it would be worth it unless you're REALLY into the PS2.
Do you know why my retrotink2x and hd vision cables make my PS2 games look dark?
Depends on a lot of factors. The cables I think have a brightness adjustment. But it could also be a setting like RGB color space, try toggling between limited and full.
Very interesting video. The HD RetroVision PS2 cables itself without RetroTink does an excellent job. Is it perfect ? No. I have noticed minor frame rate variation with Resident Evil 1-2 and also that 1 second black screen during loading time. Other than that it looks great. So if you are low on budget just get yourself the cable, you won't regret it. I am not saying RetroTink 5x is a bad product, I just think it's very expensive versus what I get in return.
For a crt that accepts component, would it be better to skip the retrotink altogether and just buy the HD retrovision cables?
If you're using a CRT, yes. This is really for people wanting to use modern TVs.
@@AdamKoralik fan of your content for a while, thank you for the honest reply! :D
So I have the first party ps2 component cables is there anything to know with those, do they pretty much do the same thing as the HD Retrovision? Or is there a notable Quality difference?
They're fine, the HD Retrovision ones are just better made.
Just one question about these upscalers. When you use a composite connection, does it preserve the composite effects that the Sega Genesis uses? I.e the extra color effects produced by "smearing" dithering together. Or will it show individual pixels and ruin the effect?
You almost showed it in SoR 2 but not quite. :D
If you beat the miniboss and go into the bar, the lights will either be a smooth yellow (if using composite on crt) or have sharp, visible dithering if you are on an emulator.
I'm assuming it will show the dithering and not the effect due to the nature of flatscreen TV/ monitors but I'm not really a technical guy so IDK. I really want the full retro experience without the bulk of a CRT so I'm kind of holding out hope that this Retrotink can provide the same effects. If anyone knows please drop a reply.
I don't know to be honest, the footage of the Genesis was via RGB.
Adam: Limited RGB is better for capture
Also Adam: It captures darker than it should
Correct.
So this can upscale snes and genesis games to 1080p rather than just 640x480 like the 2x does?
Correct. It won't be native obviously, but it will do that.
Would you ever recommend using the PS3 with the component cables going through something like this then going through an mclassic or will the hdmi always be superior?
PS3, always use the native HDMI, but definitely add an mClassic.
You’re better off with HDMI, though this may work around the HDCP if you were to stream or capture PS3 footage. I could be wrong about that but it’s worth looking into
@@AdamKoralik ok thanks for the quick reply feels like a dumb question but I’ve been trying to understand scaling haha
More than an EU standard it seems like SCART is easier to deal with.
Or do component cables work well through a switch?
Depends on the quality of the switch. I find it's easier to get high grade SCART switches than high grade component switches.
Recently got the pound cable for my PS one and Kaico hdmi cable for my Dreamcast. Very pleased with the picture quality they deliver.
Are the official ps2 and gamecube component cables better than this hd retrovision? I only have the official ones
I'd go with HD Retrovision honestly.
I've been waiting for this!
I've always came across multiple different versions made only for one console so i never bothered getting any of them.
I have a Retrotink 5x pro. I have a 1080i blu-ray. Will the de-interlacer work on that?
Uh, that depends on the setting of our Blu-Ray player. You're saying the disc itself is rendered in 1080i?
@Adam Koralik Yup. It's absolute bullshit since on streaming, I can watch the same show in 1080p (although I still prefer to own the disc bc I prefer physical media). I typically play blu-rays on my PS3 and Xbox One S
hey adam I have a question what would be the point of getting a retro tink 5x if the mclassic upscales and it does antialiasing. I really wanted to get a rt5x but i dont see the point if the mclassic works great.
They're two different things. The mClassic takes an HDMI signal and enhances it. The RetroTink converts non HDMI signals into HDMI.
Adam, I don't know if you reply to 5mo old videos, but you always seem to talk about retro vision cables. What about the oem component cables for the ps2, are they just as good??
Depends on who made them. I'd always recommend HD RetroVision.
Pricing aside but in the end as far as picture quality and features what will be best? Pixelfx’s hdmi mods or retro tink 5x , pixel morph or ossc pro.
Which offers best quality/features a box or mod kit?
I haven't used half of those, so I can't say.
@@AdamKoralik it be a great video for sure. Hopefully someone on UA-cam compares them all.
Hi, I have a question. I just purchased the retrotink 5x recently. I was wondering why the sound cuts out after the video image changes from when a cutscene starts for example . is there a solution to this. im having this issue playing ps1 games. Cheers
I'm unfamiliar with that, you might want to ask Mike Chi about it.
@@AdamKoralik i spoke with others who had the same problem. they said its because the resolution changes on the ps1. its very annoying as i love the ps1. ill see if i can get in contact with mike chi and see what he says.
@@darrenpage2484 Did you set it to 240p?
Good to see this just keeps getting better and better. And it's great that the Sega Saturn finally has something that can handle its resolution changes better than anything we have to date. Too bad he didn't use USB-C on the cable connection though.
Also, I like PANCAKES with milk not urine. So, USE THE BEST POSSIBLE CABLES FOR THE CONSOLE PEOPLE!
Oh yeah. Great work, as always Adam!
@10:29 Depends on what program you're using for capture too. With Elgato there are three stages of full vs limited output in OBS. One in configure video under properties, second is in properties, third is in video output. Also with OBS, the colour space of your output folder can really mess with video players like VLC and Windows Media Player, as well as video editing software. I444 in OBS crushes everything to hell in Premiere Pro for instance. Have you tried REcentral 4? it's simple compared to OBS, but it doesn't matter much if you're editing in post anyway.
Edit: just to add, if you have problems with REcentral stretching to 16:9, you just need to use this formula in reference to scale width to get it corrected:
(original res)/(16:9)
so if 4:3 got stretched to 16:9 for example:
(4/3)/(16/9)=0.75 = 75% scale width
for 3:2:
(3/2)/(16/9)= 0.84375 = 84.4%
352x240(Saturn):
(356/240)/(16/9) = 0.825 = 82.5%(although 4:3 is more correct)
Do you think you could get a better signal from the 5X over the M-Pro that outputs to a M-Cable?
I'm just guessing you didn't watch the whole thing.
One question on the PS2 side, can you play PS1 games on the PS2 with component cables without changing anything example change to RGB cables?
Yes actually.
Can I hook up multiple consoles into one retrotink 5x?
In concept yes, but it would be best to have a SCART switch feeding into it. Not connecting multiple consoles to it directly.
@@AdamKoralik how bout the OG XBOX and the PS2 hooked up in one retrotink through component? Can that work? Or would I have to use a splitter somehow
@@Nosirrl4747 I personally wouldn't recommend that. Component switch boxes are famously not good.
Honestly, it depends on how much you care/willing to spend.
@@AdamKoralik bet, appreciate you for the reply man
I noticed when you move the setting from HDMI Limited to HDMI Full. The picture got a little darker. Thats something to note.
Does the rt5x have a feature to let you fill in the whole screen for games that are letter boxed? Like Metroid prime trilogy on wii or RE4 for wii?
You're asking if it can zoom in?
I’m asking if games that you already set in 16:9 and the whole screen is already filled, but the game itself has black borders despite it being at 16:9, if you can zoom in even further to get rid of the black borders the game naturally has?
I’m talking about zooming in without cutting off any of the image.
Hey Adam! Awesome video! Have you tried this device with modern 4K TV? By example, My 2016 Samsung 4K is no compatible with 480p / 720p and wondering if 1080p mode will work for PS2 games. Thanks!
Of course, that's kind of the whole point.
@18:20 YES YOU DO NEED TO GET ALL OF THE PIECES. good point.
Great video man. I have the LevelHike PS2 HDMI cable, makes the picture look pretty damn sharp. Thoughts on how much of a jump in video quality I can expect if I go from LevelHike to RetroTink 5X? If you've heard of/tried out the LevelHike products that is
Going from $30 to $300, I wanna make sure I'm getting a very noticeable difference lol
LevelHike products are mostly trash.
You can look that up about them, they're not well reviewed.
The RetroTink 5X is in every way superior.
But it's still the PS2, you're not ever going to be impressed.
Micro USB does suck but this isn't gonna be like a phone where you are constantly plugging and unplugging it, so it should be okay for stuff like this. Not nearly as much of a risk of the port getting damaged.
The only way to save the port is to keep unplugging at the base of the power outlet, otherwise I'd only unplug when moving it.
Sucks though. Even Marqs knows enough to suggest a good power supply.
Considering buying a ps3 cecha01 but worried about reliability wondering if it’s all that much better then a setup like this for a modern display? I know of a older video regarding ps2 and how to get the most from its picture quality and ps3 Cecha01 was your recommendation just wondering if that has changed? Thanks!
1) Dope shirt.
2) Shout-out for the pancake reference.
3) I've been extensively researching the best way to connect my PS2 (and other consoles) with my LG CX tv. It's between this or buying a backwards compatible PS3. Great stuff man! I didn't know this was out. I've seen the reviews on the other Retrotinks. Major shout-out to Mike. PS those HD RV cables are tough to come across!
great pancake analogy, but I think a lot of people also pollute the stream by using bad passive console selectors.
I got mine in the mail today. I love this! So easy to use, great options. I had the retrotink scart 2x, then moved to the OSSC. Once I got this, I'll never go back. Picture looks incredible on saturn and ps1 so far. Threw my OSSC out the window.
Hello Adam I have a question about rgb bnc cable's, I have a crt with component input and don't want to spend 50 bucks on a scart to component converter, so I was wondering if I could use those individual bnc female to RCA male converters for red green and blue but what would I do with the black sync?
Does it work nicely with a PS1 which only outputs composite (Y, R, W) ? On a 55 inch tv for example?
PS1 doesn't only output composite. Use RGB, they even make YpBpPr (component) cables for the PS1 now.
@@AdamKoralik Thanks. Havent seen those cables, I think one option could be the HD Retrovision Genesis component cable, and there is a PS1 adapter for it.
Thanks for showing some Saturn footage! Hard to tell in the video, but does the 5x look better than the scart 2x, specifically with the Saturn?
Yes, it does. As I said, problem is capturing this stuff kind of eliminated the subtleties.
Looking better boils down to....preference. I'd say yes, but I miss the smoothing, however that's compensated by the mClassic.
So how would using a retrotink to hdmi compare to just using the chimeric HD adapter for xbox?
If I have the OEM component for the original xbox and I use retrotink with mclassic or without it will it look better or worse than original xbox with chimeric HD?
Could maybe try them both with ans without the mclassic to see if there is any difference 🤔
Another thing is what settings would I put down to get the best picture quality?
Honestly, that boils down to convenience. The Chimeric adapter is probably better for the OG Xbox in the sense that it was built specifically for that purpose.
However, the RetroTink 5X, when utilized properly, I'm sure would offer you the same image with more options.
But, you need all the pieces and the space the house it.
But in terms of actual performance one VS the other, I doubt there's much difference.
@@AdamKoralik Hey thank you very much sir! I really appreciate the advice! Sounds like you can't go wrong with either and you'll get a comparable experience. Only shame is having to wait for availability since they're both out of stock at the moment but I think a retrotink will suit my needs just fine. Looks really nice. Retrotink will be stocking up soon it seems. Thanks again!
Can I use a N64 Eon and mClassic with the retro tink?
You mean Super 64 ---> mClassic ---> RetroTink 5X?
@@AdamKoralik I don't know much about display image. Like is there an optimum method. Should you not use the Super 64 and just use the standard cables with the retrotink 5x then add in the mClassic? Is the Super64 with and HDMI even compatible through the retrotink 5x?
@@C-Murph Right, that's why I'm asking what you're suggesting.
Short answer, no. The RetroTink 5X doesn't have HDMI input. The core of the Super 64 is just an older RetroTink model.
So, you'd either keep the Super 64 to mClassic setup, or go with a RetroTink 5X to mClassic setup, but not all three.
@@AdamKoralik ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ok. My bad. So, its best for unmodified older gen systems with composite/scart for best image. Ok, i get it now. But you can still tack on the mClassic for a slightly buffed up image. Make sense. I still could use one of these though.
@@AdamKoralik Thanks for the help!
Is there any reason to get an mclassic for antialiasing, if you get a retritink 5x?
They handle it very differently, I still consider it valuable. But that's personal preference.