Thanks for this suggestion. I've just recently acquired a Minolta Rocker 45mm lens for my 720nm converted Sony A6000 and I am delighted with the lens. Not a hot spot in sight and great contrast and sharpness.
I shot on MFT, three converted bodies a Lumix G5 with a 665NM filter a Lumix GX80 with a 850NM filter a OMD10 mk3 full spectrum. I have only shot with native mount lenes so far although I have been tempted to try. I do have a fair few lenses and the only one I really notice hot spot on is when shooting on my Olympus 7-14 f2.8 on my IR bodies wide open you don't really see any but as soon as you stop down they appear. Not noticed on my full spectrum body.
The Edwardnoble data base is very useful. Thanks for the info. Recently I bought the newly release Sony 20-70mm for my first post covid trip to Japan. It is very light and can be my single lens for future trip. The result is mixed. Stop down made the HS very obvious but not very annoying {correctable in post processing.} From f/5.6 to f/4 the results are acceptable. FYI.
Not a vintage lens, but I've been loving the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7 for my micro four thirds IR camera & it's available for just over $100 used. Absolutely a plastic fantastic, and I've noticed no hot spots!
I use a variety of prime and zoom Rokkors for IR on my Fuji as well. All are clear of hotspots. They also have a lovely way of capturing a scene with a ton of character.
I had a set of Konica Hexanon lenses before I had my camera converted. Initially I wanted to use the Fuji XC 16-50 for infrared photography but unfortunately it has the hotspot issue. Only mildly but visible. So I tried the Hexanon lenses and they work perfect. Most of the time I shoot with the 28/f3.5 (my favourite) or the 40/f1.8 and every now and then with the 135/f3.2. All of them are great lenses, whether in normal light or IR. And they cost me only about 80€ all together.
@@robshea There are some variations of the 28mm, earlier 7 and the later 5 lens design. The 7 lens design is considered to be the better although they are all pretty close together. And there are also the Hexar versions which were the cheaper siblings. Btw. thanks for your great channel content! You are a invaluable source for knowledge in IR photography! I think I watched every video ever since I started last year. And your calm voice is a joy to listen to. You should read in some audio books 😉.
I have Konica Hexanon lenses which I use on my Sony A6000 converted full spectrum. I read about them in Edward Noble’s database. I own the 50 f1.7, my fave and, a 135 f3.5. In these days a 200 f4 is on the way and I should have found a 40 f1.8. I mount them both on the A6000 and the A7IV (not converted). IMHO, they work great on normal camera too. I paired them with Hoya filters: R72 720nm, R1 Pro 590nm, YA3 550nm and the green one always by Hoya. I use the green one with the orange to simulate the Aereochrome effect (I read about that in a forum and wanted to have a go at it). Lately, I bought a 850nm by Zomei. It works fine too. Fabrizio
I have about 20 SLR cameras and a myriad of lenses for them (Nikkor, Olympus, Minolta, Yashica, Pentax/Ricoh). I've only tried a couple given using the AF lenses I've got for my a6000 (Sigma DN ART lenses) focus very sharp and very fast. I may have to spend some time testing to see which might work well for the IR portraiture work I do. Thanks for reminding me that vintage lenses work well with IR. :)
Hi Rob, thanks for the video. My question is off topic, but I'd like to know if you have an ISO that is as high as you wish to go, otherwise your images start looking too noisy? In particular shooting 850nm B&W. Thank you.
When shooting with a converted camera in sunlight, I use the lowest ISO the camera supports. If I’m the shade, overcast or raining, I will use a higher ISO. Last week, I was shooting on a rainy day and actually shot at 3200 for a few shots. That’s pretty rare, usually 1600 or lower. With an unconverted camera, I’m using a tripod and almost always using the lowest ISO. The long exposure introduces noise as it is; I don’t want to add to that with ISO noise. Of course, this all depends on your camera. Newer mirrorless cameras tend to be ISO invariant, allowing for greater values. With a DSLR, I would lean lower.
My current favorite vintage lens for IR's got to be the Super-Takumar 28mm F/3.5, not super sharp in the corners but usable at f/11, mechanically great, no hotspots, no edge color cast, on aps-c it has almost not vignetting or distortion (when stopped down). I just wish I could find something even wider. I tried some TTartisan (35mm and 17mm f/1.4) but they both have awful color casts in the edges and hotspots that start at around f/8. Similar situation with my Sigma Art 19mm and 30mm f/2.8 lenses.
I also have the Super-Takumar 28mm f/3.5, but I have yet to shoot with it. Getting wide is certainly a challenge. I have a Canon 24mm f/2.8 and the Nikon 24mm f/2.8. I did videos on both of those linked below. I recently picked up a Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 that I'm looking forward to shooting. At some point, I'll probably dip into the Laowa lenses to get wider. Canon FD 24mm f/2.8: ua-cam.com/video/BA_IzuiHN5Y/v-deo.html Nikon 24mm f/2.8: ua-cam.com/video/nSV3fjBXS08/v-deo.html
@@robshea Thanks for the links! I'll check it out. Concerning Laowa lenses, I have it that the hotspots are usually a coating issue. So I am not sure if Laowa lenses will be any better since they are very modern and well optimized lenses. But it would be great if at least one of them was good. I suppose lenses like the Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 20/4 could be worth a shot. But they are pricey. At least for me that is.
I also use IRIX 15mm on IR and there are no hot spots. Greetings from Poland, from the city of "Fortress Przemyśl", I don't know English and I use Google translator.
Thanks for this suggestion. I've just recently acquired a Minolta Rocker 45mm lens for my 720nm converted Sony A6000 and I am delighted with the lens. Not a hot spot in sight and great contrast and sharpness.
I shot on MFT, three converted bodies a Lumix G5 with a 665NM filter a Lumix GX80 with a 850NM filter a OMD10 mk3 full spectrum. I have only shot with native mount lenes so far although I have been tempted to try. I do have a fair few lenses and the only one I really notice hot spot on is when shooting on my Olympus 7-14 f2.8 on my IR bodies wide open you don't really see any but as soon as you stop down they appear. Not noticed on my full spectrum body.
The Edwardnoble data base is very useful. Thanks for the info. Recently I bought the newly release Sony 20-70mm for my first post covid trip to Japan. It is very light and can be my single lens for future trip. The result is mixed. Stop down made the HS very obvious but not very annoying {correctable in post processing.} From f/5.6 to f/4 the results are acceptable. FYI.
Not a vintage lens, but I've been loving the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7 for my micro four thirds IR camera & it's available for just over $100 used. Absolutely a plastic fantastic, and I've noticed no hot spots!
I use a variety of prime and zoom Rokkors for IR on my Fuji as well. All are clear of hotspots. They also have a lovely way of capturing a scene with a ton of character.
Excellent! thanks for sharing!
Yep it's a keeper. One was gifted to me a few months ago 👍🏼
I had a set of Konica Hexanon lenses before I had my camera converted. Initially I wanted to use the Fuji XC 16-50 for infrared photography but unfortunately it has the hotspot issue. Only mildly but visible. So I tried the Hexanon lenses and they work perfect. Most of the time I shoot with the 28/f3.5 (my favourite) or the 40/f1.8 and every now and then with the 135/f3.2. All of them are great lenses, whether in normal light or IR. And they cost me only about 80€ all together.
I've read good things about the Konica Hexanon lenses. I've picked up the 28mm and 200mm and need to try them out.
@@robshea There are some variations of the 28mm, earlier 7 and the later 5 lens design. The 7 lens design is considered to be the better although they are all pretty close together. And there are also the Hexar versions which were the cheaper siblings.
Btw. thanks for your great channel content! You are a invaluable source for knowledge in IR photography! I think I watched every video ever since I started last year. And your calm voice is a joy to listen to. You should read in some audio books 😉.
I have Konica Hexanon lenses which I use on my Sony A6000 converted full spectrum.
I read about them in Edward Noble’s database.
I own the 50 f1.7, my fave and, a 135 f3.5. In these days a 200 f4 is on the way and I should have found a 40 f1.8.
I mount them both on the A6000 and the A7IV (not converted). IMHO, they work great on normal camera too.
I paired them with Hoya filters: R72 720nm, R1 Pro 590nm, YA3 550nm and the green one always by Hoya.
I use the green one with the orange to simulate the Aereochrome effect (I read about that in a forum and wanted to have a go at it).
Lately, I bought a 850nm by Zomei. It works fine too.
Fabrizio
@@Sturmhart I just might be in the process of recording an audiobook. 😉
@@fabriziocanale9768 Excellent! Thanks for sharing.
I have about 20 SLR cameras and a myriad of lenses for them (Nikkor, Olympus, Minolta, Yashica, Pentax/Ricoh). I've only tried a couple given using the AF lenses I've got for my a6000 (Sigma DN ART lenses) focus very sharp and very fast. I may have to spend some time testing to see which might work well for the IR portraiture work I do. Thanks for reminding me that vintage lenses work well with IR. :)
Wow 🤩 I have Minolta MD 45mm too! Need to try it out.
Hi Rob, the Minolta A 24-120 f3.5-4.5 is also a great choice with no hot spots.
Do you mean the Minolta "AF" 24-120mm f/3.5-4.5?
@@robshea yes. No hot spots at f8,f11 or f16. I checked at 24mm 35mm, 50mm,70mm and 105mm.
Hi Rob, thanks for the video. My question is off topic, but I'd like to know if you have an ISO that is as high as you wish to go, otherwise your images start looking too noisy? In particular shooting 850nm B&W. Thank you.
When shooting with a converted camera in sunlight, I use the lowest ISO the camera supports. If I’m the shade, overcast or raining, I will use a higher ISO. Last week, I was shooting on a rainy day and actually shot at 3200 for a few shots. That’s pretty rare, usually 1600 or lower.
With an unconverted camera, I’m using a tripod and almost always using the lowest ISO. The long exposure introduces noise as it is; I don’t want to add to that with ISO noise.
Of course, this all depends on your camera. Newer mirrorless cameras tend to be ISO invariant, allowing for greater values. With a DSLR, I would lean lower.
@@robshea thanks Rob. By and large it sounds like you treat infrared just about the way you would using visible light. Thanks again!
My current favorite vintage lens for IR's got to be the Super-Takumar 28mm F/3.5, not super sharp in the corners but usable at f/11, mechanically great, no hotspots, no edge color cast, on aps-c it has almost not vignetting or distortion (when stopped down). I just wish I could find something even wider. I tried some TTartisan (35mm and 17mm f/1.4) but they both have awful color casts in the edges and hotspots that start at around f/8. Similar situation with my Sigma Art 19mm and 30mm f/2.8 lenses.
I also have the Super-Takumar 28mm f/3.5, but I have yet to shoot with it. Getting wide is certainly a challenge. I have a Canon 24mm f/2.8 and the Nikon 24mm f/2.8. I did videos on both of those linked below. I recently picked up a Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 that I'm looking forward to shooting. At some point, I'll probably dip into the Laowa lenses to get wider.
Canon FD 24mm f/2.8: ua-cam.com/video/BA_IzuiHN5Y/v-deo.html
Nikon 24mm f/2.8: ua-cam.com/video/nSV3fjBXS08/v-deo.html
@@robshea Thanks for the links! I'll check it out.
Concerning Laowa lenses, I have it that the hotspots are usually a coating issue. So I am not sure if Laowa lenses will be any better since they are very modern and well optimized lenses. But it would be great if at least one of them was good.
I suppose lenses like the Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 20/4 could be worth a shot. But they are pricey. At least for me that is.
Hey Rob, great info as always. I was gifted a Minolta Rokkor-X 50mm f/1.4. Do you have any experience with it?
The Minolta Rokkor-X series seems to do well for IR, but I have not tested or seen reports for that specific lens.
Pardon my ignorance … what mount does it have?
Minolta MD
I also use IRIX 15mm on IR and there are no hot spots. Greetings from Poland, from the city of "Fortress Przemyśl", I don't know English and I use Google translator.
Thanks! Which mount do you have for the IRIX 15mm?
@@robshea On the Pentax mount with the K200D on the CCD matrix, converted to 590 nm with the Kolari filter.
Check out Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 50mm f2.8. It is doing great in infrared and is called the eagles eye for a reason.
Does it have any hot spots?
Hello!!
👋