Changing this valve solved the problems I had with a 2012 Escape XLT. Ford dealer couldn't figure it out! I wasted time and $ with them. The valve cost about $40 at O'Rielys. I could have purchased it for half that off Amazon, but I needed a quick fix. Thanks for posting the video!
Ok so how did you confirm it was a vacuum leak and the purge valve ? I seen u put the gauge on it and say it was leaking but why do u say that? It’s supposed to pull air half the time when it’s warmed up .. I’m very confused on how you made this diagnosis?
I probably would have started the car and double checked the new purge valve for a leak before putting the hose on. Just for continuity of the video and show a "before and after" shot of it leaking, and not leaking.. This one can be tricky for people who don't already know to look for it, because the codes don't really tell you that this is even possible to be an issue; they should have added another trouble code to monitor this thing, oh well: job security. :)
I have an engine light in my 2010 ford escape v6 replaced the purge valve the mass air flow sensor and the electronic throttle body and still have a low idle and rough acceleration.
Mine doing similar but I’ve replaced that valve and bunch other stuff. My LONGFT1 is running 25.0%. Could that mean fuel pump is failing? It’s also having long time first start in morning.
Had an escape where if it ran for a bit and you turned it off to like go in a store, it would stall when it starts back up. Going to try this and if that doesn't work, ive also read that the fuel pump mega fuse can be the issue too
@madmama13 were pretty sure it's the torque converter in ours. We did several dump and fill transmission fluid changes and the fluid was pretty much black. Ours did get better after having clean fluid but is still stalling out if you come to a complete stop at lights or stop signs. We've been driving it anyway and putting it in neutral when we need to come to a complete stop. Getting a complete transmission replacement is expensive. To get a reman it's 4800. So we've been dealing with ours these last few months and waiting for it to get worse or make a decision about replacing the car. Doing the dump and fills is pretty easy, plenty of videos on UA-cam to do it yourself. You can also try some shudderguard in the transmission fluid also.
@ oh wow! I didn’t even think of all of that. I’ve been saying the same thing about just riding it out until needing to replace the car. I can’t imagine spending so much to fix her up instead of buying a new car. My car is due for fluid change and engine filter. She also started doing the anti theft system 🙄 sometimes it won’t start up on me no sounds at all. Takes several attempts of opening my door with the code or key in the door. The car is getting frustrating
Thank you for such an informative video! I have a 2010 ford escape, the car starts OK, but the engine seems choking when idling and died couple of times when idling and when hard breaking. I suspect it is purge valve issue and plan to replace myself. What else should I pay attention to? Thank you so much for your video! Help me a lot! BTW, I am not a machinist, just try to DIY to save couple of bucks.
Thanks for the video. Going to buy the part today and replace it. Hopefully that fixes the issue on my 2012 ford escape.
Changing this valve solved the problems I had with a 2012 Escape XLT. Ford dealer couldn't figure it out! I wasted time and $ with them. The valve cost about $40 at O'Rielys. I could have purchased it for half that off Amazon, but I needed a quick fix.
Thanks for posting the video!
Tom you the Goat 🐐 thank you my check engine light went right off my boy
Good to hear! Thanks!
Thanks for posting this video.. I have a ford fusion....But it seems to be stalling on me just the same..
Great info and the audio was great also
Ok so how did you confirm it was a vacuum leak and the purge valve ? I seen u put the gauge on it and say it was leaking but why do u say that? It’s supposed to pull air half the time when it’s warmed up .. I’m very confused on how you made this diagnosis?
Hi I am having this issue with my 2010 escape, but it also is sluggish when it starts going, would this also apply?
I probably would have started the car and double checked the new purge valve for a leak before putting the hose on. Just for continuity of the video and show a "before and after" shot of it leaking, and not leaking.. This one can be tricky for people who don't already know to look for it, because the codes don't really tell you that this is even possible to be an issue; they should have added another trouble code to monitor this thing, oh well: job security. :)
Is this the same for the 3.0 v6?
I have this same issue with my 2010 Ford Escape. Thank you!
I have an engine light in my 2010 ford escape v6 replaced the purge valve the mass air flow sensor and the electronic throttle body and still have a low idle and rough acceleration.
Hey tom thank you for your useful imformation .
How can I tell if it’s a throttle buddy problem
Mine doing similar but I’ve replaced that valve and bunch other stuff. My LONGFT1 is running 25.0%. Could that mean fuel pump is failing? It’s also having long time first start in morning.
I have the same problem on my 2010 ford escape V6. I ad a mechanic replace the purge valve however it still has slow rough acceleration.
Hey any fixes? As soon as I accelerate my escape it struggles to go onto the next gear and RPMs stay at an all time high.
Had an escape where if it ran for a bit and you turned it off to like go in a store, it would stall when it starts back up. Going to try this and if that doesn't work, ive also read that the fuel pump mega fuse can be the issue too
Did it work?
My mercury mariner is doing the same thing but I have no check engine lights or codes.
My 2010 mercury mariner as well! It passes the diagnostic tests.
@madmama13 were pretty sure it's the torque converter in ours. We did several dump and fill transmission fluid changes and the fluid was pretty much black. Ours did get better after having clean fluid but is still stalling out if you come to a complete stop at lights or stop signs. We've been driving it anyway and putting it in neutral when we need to come to a complete stop. Getting a complete transmission replacement is expensive. To get a reman it's 4800. So we've been dealing with ours these last few months and waiting for it to get worse or make a decision about replacing the car. Doing the dump and fills is pretty easy, plenty of videos on UA-cam to do it yourself. You can also try some shudderguard in the transmission fluid also.
@ oh wow! I didn’t even think of all of that. I’ve been saying the same thing about just riding it out until needing to replace the car. I can’t imagine spending so much to fix her up instead of buying a new car. My car is due for fluid change and engine filter. She also started doing the anti theft system 🙄 sometimes it won’t start up on me no sounds at all. Takes several attempts of opening my door with the code or key in the door. The car is getting frustrating
What’s the gel you put on before plugging the hose?
Petroleum Jelly
Thank you for such an informative video!
I have a 2010 ford escape, the car starts OK, but the engine seems choking when idling and died couple of times when idling and when hard breaking. I suspect it is purge valve issue and plan to replace myself.
What else should I pay attention to?
Thank you so much for your video! Help me a lot!
BTW, I am not a machinist, just try to DIY to save couple of bucks.
I usually torque my bolts a quarter turn past “that’s probably too much”
Another good video 👍 👍 👍
Great job 👍
Thanks 👍
Great Vid, thanks!
Good video, thanks for the lesson.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the help
I appreciate this video thank you
Thank you!
I don't see this exact part anywhere
should have kept it like that you sound like Darth Vader with a cold
I'm a pro with audio and video. Just come on by.
SNUG torque spec.