Simplify3D has a nice 3rd option to make the bushings fit: _"Horizontal Size Compensation"_ (under the "Other" tab). A positive value pushes surfaces on the model outward in the X,Y plane. This increases the thickness of the plastic and decreases the size of holes, but keeps their relative positions the same. You can also give a negative value.
I could be wrong but I don't think the expansion via temperature is as great as with metals. I have plenty of experience building engines and transmissions and have used heat there with close tolerance parts many times. alas I am just getting into 3d printers and am still learning plastics composition.
There is also a similar XY Compensation parameter in Slic3r, which may have added after this video was originally made. I’ve used it successfully to ensure M3 nuts fit into corresponding part holes.
I used your X-Axis hotend holder design for 6 years. I am coming back to you and would like to say thank you. Yep, that's all I did. 6 years and used that X-Axis hotend holder.
These Slic3r settings also revolutionized my CTC Bizer results. They are awesome! Thank you so much! Can't wait to get my parts and build this HyperCube.
I printed the fan duct standing up (inlet end on bed). Worked perfectly - I simply put a support under the little screw mount on either side. The advantage of this is it does hardly any bridging. Printed in PETG on my CR-10 Mini and it came out nearly perfect (couple blobs which were probably due to my retraction settings). I used Simplify3D so I could specifically use supports on only the two screw mounts, so I don't know how well that'll work with another slicer doing automatic supports.
At full had, the typical ripples can easy be seen but if You turn down the video resolution sure the ripples are less visible. I look also on a 4K monitor that has been calibrated.
The final parts came so nicely.. looks fantastic! Thanks for putting such a detailed build videos. I am looking forward to build the hypercube once I fix up my kossel mini.
To make stuff the right size every time you need to first calibrate your extrusion multiplier and then when you design things either make the holes 0.4mm bigger in diameter or make them the exact size you want then use the offset feature in slic3r and put it to - 0.2mm (half the nozzle size) but then your outer dimensions will be 0.4mm smaller which 99% of the time doesn't matter anyway.
Your prints are looking fantastic. I struggle to print the bushing holder, it typically get knocked off, or loses bad adhesion. Can you share where you buy your anodised tubes?
What about adding an axial slot through the bushing holder and having the diameter slightly smaller than it should to take advantage of the elasticity of the plastic just like they did on the prusa i3? This would avoid wasting a part
That's a great idea, I hadn't thought of doing that. I guess I'm a little concerned that the fast moving x-carriage may loosen or break the part. For the Z axis yes definitely.
If you've already printed a bearing holder and it's too loose or too tight, use a heat gun and fix the part. Get it hot and you can get the bearings in if it's a bit too tight, or squeeze it slightly to tighten the fit if it's too loose..
Layer cooling fan duct (Fan Duct_v1.2.stl), although having the same external dimensions, differs from the Layer Cooling Fan Duct described in your E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v. 2 for Prusa i3 (thing:1632847). Main differences seem to be :- 1. Duct exit nozzle is further away in the horizontal direction from vertical axis of heater/ extruder block. 2. Fixing lugs are in a different position, resulting in Duct exit nozzle being lower for the Hypercube. Put simply, can the Hypercube fan duct befitted into the Prusa i3 modification, and will it work?
WOOOowww what a beautiful prints! and I almost forgot, thanks for sharing yours setings! (I can not use it with PLA) maybe you would also consider to review the setings for PLA??? good luck with...... Regards from the Netherlands Rob.
Have now got all the parts to make a printer, but cheap printer does not make good parts,even with the great setting you gave to us have made a big improvement to my prints thank you so much , but they still are lifting away from the bed about firth layers into the print, i don't think my bed is working correctly, maybe the new will. I hope you are going to be able spare the time to help me out?
That fan is a NIGHTMARE to print. I used Slic3r with the same settings as you but it still is not pretty. In all, I figure I tried to print 6 or 7 copies, using Cura, S3D and now Slic3r. I finally have one that is good enough. All the other parts printed fine. Can't wait to get my parts and build this puppy.
Hi, very informative video. I usually use cure for my prints as I found slic3r to be more difficult to set. But after watching your video I definitely will go back and give it a go. Specially the bridging part will help building clearer parts. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
Cool video as always.. It's interesting that you had issues with Cura but not Slic3r with slicing the fan duct.. I had the opposite issue. I was able to get a semi decent print with Cura but not with Slic3r. I am swimming against the tide, printing ABS with no fan.. Both seem to do the same (i.e The only bridging it does is the perimeters for the top and then treats the rest as infill).. Now I have a workable fan duct. I might get me some of that PETG and print some parts.. Its looks brilliant :) .
I am planning on making a hyper cube myself, Amazing work! I assume that if I wanted to make it larger, I just need longer lengths of 2020, longer Z plane screw, guide rods, Etc... And the parts as they are should be fine for longer belts and such bits?
Yes increase the lengths of the extrusions, rods, etc by the same amount as the larger print area. The larger you go, expect to reduce the acceleration/jerk settings in Marlin to acheieve maximum print quality.
First congrats for the design, I am printing it part by part as my Printrbot is very slow, so each bigger part takes like 1 hour . But I made good progress only 3-4 parts left . For the fan part, just enable supports and print it just vertically so it is layer over layer and no bridging is needed . Only 2 small supports are needed for the screw supports. I know because I just printed it . Also can you make a video about how to set support in slic3r, Cura is so much nicer . Very nice overview about he slic3r advanced settings ! Also could you make a version of the parts that would fit the longer LM8UU bushings used on the Qu-Bd One up, this are 44 mm long and won't fit in the parts designed for LM8U .
Good idea regarding printing the fan duct standing up. With slic3r, you can play around with the support settings and just view the result in the 'Preview' tab. That way you can be confident the supports look fine before actually wasting material. I have re-designed the XY joiners for longer bearings but haven't listed them yet. I need to modify the Z carriage as well for longer bearings. I'll upload them to Thingiverse soon.
Waiting for that parts ! Are they for 8 mm steel rods ? Also how to print thin tall structures on a non heated bed with PLA, at some point they get unstuck from the bed and the print is ruined . Can you print the Tiny Planetary Gear set and make a video ? Maybe using a raft would be a good idea, slic3r generated really stupid brim which is aroud all the parts, but each part has no brim so the contact surface is really small and at some point even the friction with the hotend can make it lift from the bed .
Curious , A couple of thoughts printing some things lately : a) If you add the distance the extruder travels between every part transition from bottom layer to top it seems it would add up to be a large distance ( and hence time ) Why not build the parts much closer ? Has anyone done such calculation/tests ? b) Can in fill make the print slower than making the exruder trace and accelerate and decelerate around rather than keeping a continuous travel ( at least say printing a thick wall Versus over infill ). Again has anyone done such testing ? Strength Versus INFiLL VERSUS Thick Wall. ?
A. Thank you for sharing all the work you've put into this project and sharing the progress. I've learned LOADS of new things. B. How hard would it be to redesign the printhead bearing mounts to accept linear bearings for use on stainless rails?
Nice work as always! Can you give me the link from where did you get your Aluminium build plate? Mine is kind off sagging in the middle. The difference between the middle and the sides is about 0.1mm and it's ruining my larger prints.
I bought it from ebay a year ago. The seller no longer sells this. My bed isn't perfect either but it was better than the 3 others I tried before it. Checkout clever3d.de as they have cast aluminium beds. Cast aluminium won't bow even when heated. It will be my next upgrade.
I'm going to be testing recycled enamelled metal panels recovered from large microwave ovens. How much do you charge for a set of printed parts, to UK?
Just for good design practices, its not wise to adjust for a fit by scaling the part as it changes the dimensions of other key features like the mounting hole distances. Instead try changing the hole diameters in software.
Hi Tech2C, firstly big fan of your work! Secondly, one part that I am finding troublesome to print is the XYIDLER do you use supports for this? If so what settings are used in Slic3er?
Hi there, I'm planning to build my 3D printer, but I have no 3D printer to print my 3D printer. Sounds funny. Would you be able to ship those 3D printed parts to Brazil? The extrusion aluminum parts are no problem, I can buy them here. Thanks!
thank you soooo much for going over your print settings! Helps a noob @ this like me loads when graduating to problem polys (like ANYTHING that is not PLA lol). It will at least get me into the ballpark when trying new polys (Inland brand TPE @1.65mm just kept binding in the extruder which is the Duplicator i3 v2.1, non Belden type). Also, you do really sound like EEVBlog - a good thing.
I have been watching all your videos you have work so hard on, have started getting all the parts through the Banggood link, to help you out with your channel. Can you tell me how much is it for you to send & print a set of parts for the UK delivery please?
I want to know what kind of printer did you buy and how much $ it cost, I really like these quality printings you are doing, I saw some Prussian i3 about 300$ but I don't know if it will have the same printing quality as yours.
Hi, check his channel for other videos. He started off with a prusa clone kit, and then moved on to build his own CoreXY design, with aluminium extrusion for structure.
Great video! Thanks for the tips, now I know how to finally fix the gaps between perimeter and solid infill in slic3r! Quick question, have you tried Repetier? It has Sic3r built in but also hosts the print, so you don't need pronterface anymore! Its also a bit newer and has more useful features. If you have, may I ask what you prefer about pronterface?
Can you make HyperCube from scratch not form i3? Like parts links etc? What is the overall cost of building it from scratch? Is it better than cheap kits like flying bear p902?
I just started to look at 3d printing and your build logs are pretty amazing, AND the final quality of the printings is crazy !! I'd love to start modeling / printing stuff (in good quality) but it looks like a "good" printer is nearly 600 $us, do you think building your printer is something possible for a total noob in 3d printing (I'd find my way in 3d modeling and computer stuff) ? And would you sell a kit of your printed parts ^^ ?
Great work! You mentioned that people asked you to print some sets for them. I would like to ask you if it's possible to print one set for me too? I live in Austria so i don't know if you can ship it to me. It's great what you are doing for the comunity!
Thanks for this video and your video series. ;) I tried your Slic3r settings with PLA. My temp are 210°C and 60 °C for the heat bed The 3d print for the Fan_Duct was not a big success. I printed all other parts with Cura. They are really well done except the Fan_Duct. i prefer Cura- ;) Any Tips? Thanks, i really appreciate that. ;) Best regards from austria, Mike
Yes you can print them in PLA, just be mindful not to leave the printer in warm environments, like an outdoor shed, as the low glass transition temperature of PLA may cause some parts to deform. The nozzle of the fan duct will probably deform regardless.
Thanks for the information. If you don't mind, do you have any idea about what all the needed parts will cost with out the parts that are made? I was just looking for a ruff idea. Thanks again for your time. Have a nice weekend.
I've been watching since the beginning, and man am I really REALLY wanting to build this printer lol. It just looks so nice and prints so well! My current printer is basically the same as this in regards to the fact that it is 'home made'. Its, sadly..... made out of wood and all parts are sourced from just doing research then buying from amazon. It prints really well for being so janky lol. My biggest issue with it currently is Slic3r itself. As you've pointed out, it doesn't quite like to join up walls or even flat surfaces in my case... My current print for example, the first layer and the top layer, are not connected to the walls at all... and instead of being a nice fluid continuous flow of filament coming out for it, slic3r has the printer retracting all over the place because it breaks up the lines in weird ways... dunno why its doing that, but oh well... hoping it doesn't screw up the print currently going on... But with that aside! I just wanted to say you've done an amazing job with this printer! And I seriously can't wait to actually start building it this coming new year! Gonna use all the christmas money I get this year and hopefully buying all the parts required to start =D Just ordered my first role of PETG from E-Sun as well. Didn't want to go with them, as I normally only use HatchBox filament, but they're completely sold out EVERYWHERE for their PETG it seems... E-Sun was the only manufacturer that kept it under 40 bucks in my area... So here's hoping it works out just fine for printing your parts! =D
Just got my frame + bed assembled, I posted it as a make on thingiverse. It's the one with black extrusion and blue and white pieces. Do you think this printer would work well for dual extrusion? I was thinking of whipping up a quick release attatchment to the carriage, and having a carriage with one extruder and another with two, that way I can use the full volume if I want or I can do dual extrusion as well. I was also considering using single extruder multiextrusion.
Tech2C Yeah probably. I've also seen people putting lasers on their printers and apparently it's working really really well.. thinking about making a different carriage that i can quickly swap out to switch between them. I'm just worried about hurting the adhesion layer on the bed, but it wouldn't be a problem when engraving wood. Very intrigueing. The frame seems more than solid enough to handle the weight of a laser.
only 226g? my mpcnc machine parts weigh 759g and I'm 7 parts from being done. thats cool though i might build this printer. my prusa clone is a wobbly mess, and i been dieng to make a box frame printer.
Would 100$ work for you? All the parts with 50% infill, slow speeds for quality finish, 3 perimeters, 3 top and bottom layers, and the price includes the shipping to you
I sent you a message on thigiverse regarding ordering a set of parts. I tried to send a direct message on youtube but it looks like i cannot for some reason ( stupid G+ integration). Shipped to UK , ideally in that sexy silver PETG but any colour PETG is fine if you don't have it.
Randy H. Imagine your in your car. The speed it is set at is the speed limit. The acceleration is how quickly you can hit the limit. If you turn into a road with a 55mph limit but the drive way you're turning onto is only about a hundred feet away. Even flooring it you won't hit the limit before having to slow down to make the turn.
Greeting's, great video series.... In a future video, could you share your Cura setting's... Just did a part with your slic3r setting's. It came out pretty good.
Great video series. It is really helpful for me as I am also designing my own printer. For adjusting hole sizes, you can also use XY Size Compensation in Advanced settings in slic3r. It doesn't affect z height as Scale does.
I would not to print all parts, but it will melt by stepper motor. Be Carefull. I did print one part for my 3d printer, but got problem with 3d printer. I removed printing part(melting) and old part back. You can print it, not touching hot thing( like with motor, extruder, or hot bed).
Probably under US$300, depending on the 2020 extrusion profile cost. Checkout my thingiverse page, I have links to all the items you would need to buy.
Simplify3D has a nice 3rd option to make the bushings fit: _"Horizontal Size Compensation"_ (under the "Other" tab). A positive value pushes surfaces on the model outward in the X,Y plane. This increases the thickness of the plastic and decreases the size of holes, but keeps their relative positions the same. You can also give a negative value.
Why couldn't you put the bushing in the freezer and chill it down like you do when working on a flywheel gear on a vehicle?
I could be wrong but I don't think the expansion via temperature is as great as with metals. I have plenty of experience building engines and transmissions and have used heat there with close tolerance parts many times. alas I am just getting into 3d printers and am still learning plastics composition.
There is also a similar XY Compensation parameter in Slic3r, which may have added after this video was originally made. I’ve used it successfully to ensure M3 nuts fit into corresponding part holes.
I used your X-Axis hotend holder design for 6 years. I am coming back to you and would like to say thank you.
Yep, that's all I did. 6 years and used that X-Axis hotend holder.
These Slic3r settings also revolutionized my CTC Bizer results.
They are awesome! Thank you so much!
Can't wait to get my parts and build this HyperCube.
Great! Thanks for sharing :)
I printed the fan duct standing up (inlet end on bed). Worked perfectly - I simply put a support under the little screw mount on either side. The advantage of this is it does hardly any bridging. Printed in PETG on my CR-10 Mini and it came out nearly perfect (couple blobs which were probably due to my retraction settings). I used Simplify3D so I could specifically use supports on only the two screw mounts, so I don't know how well that'll work with another slicer doing automatic supports.
At full had, the typical ripples can easy be seen but if You turn down the video resolution sure the ripples are less visible. I look also on a 4K monitor that has been calibrated.
That was very well done as I can barely see any layer lines.
The final parts came so nicely.. looks fantastic! Thanks for putting such a detailed build videos. I am looking forward to build the hypercube once I fix up my kossel mini.
Great!
You sound like EEVBlog lol
Buschwookie not hypo enough
Sounds like a younger version of EEVBlog.
Me too, and I'm an Aussie ;)
Is he EEVbloger's son? Really simillar voice
@@Marcels-Workshop chris has a slight more gravel to his voice.
To make stuff the right size every time you need to first calibrate your extrusion multiplier and then when you design things either make the holes 0.4mm bigger in diameter or make them the exact size you want then use the offset feature in slic3r and put it to - 0.2mm (half the nozzle size) but then your outer dimensions will be 0.4mm smaller which 99% of the time doesn't matter anyway.
Jesus those parts look almost injection molded 8|
film your parts with a camera and see how they look, on video 3d prints always look alot better
why the blasphemy?
Any possibility of ever releasing the CAD files for the parts so I can build my own assembly in Inventor?
Very informative sir, at my skill level of Noob this helped alot. Not ready to make my own printer yet but when i am, I will be returning here.
Your prints are looking fantastic. I struggle to print the bushing holder, it typically get knocked off, or loses bad adhesion.
Can you share where you buy your anodised tubes?
Have you tried printing it with a brim?
or Printing on a PEI sheet. It's a miracle product for PLA and PETG.
Rubafix989 yep, 4mm. will try more but I'm not hopeful.
5wi7z3r I'm using an old ABS Printrbot. Not sure it it can support PETG.
This is a great guide for setting up the Slic3r for good quality print.
Have been following since I got my Folger Tech 2020 all aluminum i3. I can't wait to tackle this build.
What about adding an axial slot through the bushing holder and having the diameter slightly smaller than it should to take advantage of the elasticity of the plastic just like they did on the prusa i3? This would avoid wasting a part
That's a great idea, I hadn't thought of doing that. I guess I'm a little concerned that the fast moving x-carriage may loosen or break the part. For the Z axis yes definitely.
If you've already printed a bearing holder and it's too loose or too tight, use a heat gun and fix the part. Get it hot and you can get the bearings in if it's a bit too tight, or squeeze it slightly to tighten the fit if it's too loose..
thanks for this great project and all the time you put into it. I purchased the parts following your links and can't wait them to show up here :)
Cheers :)
Layer cooling fan duct (Fan Duct_v1.2.stl), although having the same external dimensions, differs from the Layer Cooling Fan Duct described in your E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v. 2 for Prusa i3 (thing:1632847). Main differences seem to be :-
1. Duct exit nozzle is further away in the horizontal direction from vertical axis of heater/ extruder block.
2. Fixing lugs are in a different position, resulting in Duct exit nozzle being lower for the Hypercube.
Put simply, can the Hypercube fan duct befitted into the Prusa i3 modification, and will it work?
Did you have to do any post deburring or sanding? They look perfect, was it all due to fillets?
WOOOowww
what a beautiful prints!
and I almost forgot,
thanks for sharing yours setings!
(I can not use it with PLA)
maybe you would also consider to review the setings for PLA???
good luck with......
Regards from the Netherlands
Rob.
Have now got all the parts to make a printer, but cheap printer does not make good parts,even with the great setting you gave to us have made a big improvement to my prints thank you so much , but they still are lifting away from the bed about firth layers into the print, i don't think my bed is working correctly, maybe the new will.
I hope you are going to be able spare the time to help me out?
hello .
how much material and what kind of material that,29 file of 3dprint structure used??
thanks❤❤❤❤
That fan is a NIGHTMARE to print. I used Slic3r with the same settings as you but it still is not pretty. In all, I figure I tried to print 6 or 7 copies, using Cura, S3D and now Slic3r. I finally have one that is good enough. All the other parts printed fine.
Can't wait to get my parts and build this puppy.
Why no brim? I find that this can help with adhesion, though you do have to move the parts a bit further apart from each other.
I use a brim on ABS, but with these PETG parts I crank up the heat bed to 70-80c which seems sufficient.
Remember you need to do : File> Preference > Then un-tick Auto-Center parts { to stop Slic3r just moving them back to the center again again}
Hi, very informative video. I usually use cure for my prints as I found slic3r to be more difficult to set. But after watching your video I definitely will go back and give it a go. Specially the bridging part will help building clearer parts. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
Awesome video with some fantastic tips and advice that will serve well for general printing too.
Good afternoon, where can I buy these parts of HyperCube 3D Printer, is there a site that sells the parts at a good price?
Thank you
Cool video as always.. It's interesting that you had issues with Cura but not Slic3r with slicing the fan duct.. I had the opposite issue. I was able to get a semi decent print with Cura but not with Slic3r. I am swimming against the tide, printing ABS with no fan.. Both seem to do the same (i.e The only bridging it does is the perimeters for the top and then treats the rest as infill)..
Now I have a workable fan duct. I might get me some of that PETG and print some parts.. Its looks brilliant :)
.
Wonderful but what about the auto bed leveling feature?
I am planning on making a hyper cube myself, Amazing work! I assume that if I wanted to make it larger, I just need longer lengths of 2020, longer Z plane screw, guide rods, Etc... And the parts as they are should be fine for longer belts and such bits?
Yes increase the lengths of the extrusions, rods, etc by the same amount as the larger print area. The larger you go, expect to reduce the acceleration/jerk settings in Marlin to acheieve maximum print quality.
First congrats for the design, I am printing it part by part as my Printrbot is very slow, so each bigger part takes like 1 hour . But I made good progress only 3-4 parts left .
For the fan part, just enable supports and print it just vertically so it is layer over layer and no bridging is needed . Only 2 small supports are needed for the screw supports. I know because I just printed it . Also can you make a video about how to set support in slic3r, Cura is so much nicer .
Very nice overview about he slic3r advanced settings !
Also could you make a version of the parts that would fit the longer LM8UU bushings used on the Qu-Bd One up, this are 44 mm long and won't fit in the parts designed for LM8U .
Good idea regarding printing the fan duct standing up. With slic3r, you can play around with the support settings and just view the result in the 'Preview' tab. That way you can be confident the supports look fine before actually wasting material.
I have re-designed the XY joiners for longer bearings but haven't listed them yet. I need to modify the Z carriage as well for longer bearings. I'll upload them to Thingiverse soon.
Waiting for that parts ! Are they for 8 mm steel rods ?
Also how to print thin tall structures on a non heated bed with PLA, at some point they get unstuck from the bed and the print is ruined . Can you print the Tiny Planetary Gear set and make a video ? Maybe using a raft would be a good idea, slic3r generated really stupid brim which is aroud all the parts, but each part has no brim so the contact surface is really small and at some point even the friction with the hotend can make it lift from the bed .
do you print everything in petg? is the hotend carriage strong enough or does it suffer from the heat of the hotend?
Yes everything in PETG. No issues with heat related problems as PETG has a quite high glass transition temp ~80c.
Can I print this using PLA? Is there a build guide for this printer and BOM?
read the wiki. there are many links to BOM . pla isnt the best idea. seams most are printing them in petg
Curious , A couple of thoughts printing some things lately : a) If you add the distance the extruder travels between every part transition from bottom layer to top it seems it would add up to be a large distance ( and hence time ) Why not build the parts much closer ? Has anyone done such calculation/tests ? b) Can in fill make the print slower than making the exruder trace and accelerate and decelerate around rather than keeping a continuous travel ( at least say printing a thick wall Versus over infill ). Again has anyone done such testing ? Strength Versus INFiLL VERSUS Thick Wall. ?
A. Thank you for sharing all the work you've put into this project and sharing the progress. I've learned LOADS of new things. B. How hard would it be to redesign the printhead bearing mounts to accept linear bearings for use on stainless rails?
Nice work as always! Can you give me the link from where did you get your Aluminium build plate? Mine is kind off sagging in the middle. The difference between the middle and the sides is about 0.1mm and it's ruining my larger prints.
I bought it from ebay a year ago. The seller no longer sells this. My bed isn't perfect either but it was better than the 3 others I tried before it. Checkout clever3d.de as they have cast aluminium beds. Cast aluminium won't bow even when heated. It will be my next upgrade.
Thanks, mate! I'll think about it. :)
I'm going to be testing recycled enamelled metal panels recovered from large microwave ovens. How much do you charge for a set of printed parts, to UK?
Где можно купить такие детали, необходимые для сборки 3D-принтера?
can you please provide a link to the PETG filament vendor? I'm not able to find the name I heard you reference. Thank you.
www.aurarum.com.au/
wow those prints are really nice!
Just for good design practices, its not wise to adjust for a fit by scaling the part as it changes the dimensions of other key features like the mounting hole distances. Instead try changing the hole diameters in software.
I'm curious, how much do you charge for a set of hypercube printed parts?
Has anyone on youtube ever answered this? :))
I can print them for you if you are interested :)
Tilen Krivec can you send information on printing a set for me
sure thing, where/how can i reach you?
Tilen Krivec
still interested in making a set?
Hi Tech2C, firstly big fan of your work! Secondly, one part that I am finding troublesome to print is the XYIDLER do you use supports for this? If so what settings are used in Slic3er?
No supports, but you must use a fan to cool the bridge/overhangs of the print. I showed the slic3r settings in the video.
Hello, could you print and ship to Brazil? What is the cost of printing and shipping? Sao Paulo, Brazil
Hi there,
I'm planning to build my 3D printer, but I have no 3D printer to print my 3D printer. Sounds funny.
Would you be able to ship those 3D printed parts to Brazil?
The extrusion aluminum parts are no problem, I can buy them here.
Thanks!
Andre Ilges get Aliexpress site and order parts what do you need. I ordered same parts(as metall).
have you thought about changing from a belt drive for the x and y to a threaded drive like the z.
No I haven't.
He's using a coreXY design, how would you want it to work with threaded rods ? :/
he could use something like this. www.amazon.com/dp/B0197QCQM2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3KMSEQZSI4PA9&coliid=I1WFMY4GOMEJMI
Indrejue I suppose it makes sense for a CNC router as it need force while cutting through material, but what's the point in a printer?
Rubafix989
Stability and accuracy. belts stretch and flex over time. the rod would probably be less maintenance.
thank you soooo much for going over your print settings! Helps a noob @ this like me loads when graduating to problem polys (like ANYTHING that is not PLA lol). It will at least get me into the ballpark when trying new polys (Inland brand TPE @1.65mm just kept binding in the extruder which is the Duplicator i3 v2.1, non Belden type).
Also, you do really sound like EEVBlog - a good thing.
Interested in purchasing a set of these parts
i might be thinking about buy the parts from you if you could give me a guess on price to us calif
hi, what's your 3D printer and what upgrades or extra parts does it have?
If i made this design but with 500x500x500 would it still work the same or would i have to make modifications ?
I have been watching all your videos you have work so hard on,
have started getting all the parts through the Banggood link, to help you out with your channel.
Can you tell me how much is it for you to send & print a set of parts for the UK delivery please?
I have found a E-bayer herts58 that will print all the parts for you in PETG material,
all the parts look so good.
Very informative, if my FlashForge Finder didn't already create perfect prints i'd be more interested in building this.
How do I figure out how to adapt the design for a 400x400x400(or 500)mm build volume?
hi,
if your nozzle is 0.4, how can you have 0.6 as a thickness for extrusion? is the squishing enough to ennsure consistant wide layers?
It just pushes out more plastic. The nozzle diameter is just a guide for the molten plastic.
Thanks for a really nice and informative video! And I must say that the quality of those parts is just amazing!
Cheers!
who's watching this without 3d printer
I want to know what kind of printer did you buy and how much $ it cost, I really like these quality printings you are doing, I saw some Prussian i3 about 300$ but I don't know if it will have the same printing quality as yours.
prusa i3 models*
I have a sub 300 Euro prusa i3, it is great! it prints very well but you'll need alot of free time
Hi, check his channel for other videos. He started off with a prusa clone kit, and then moved on to build his own CoreXY design, with aluminium extrusion for structure.
I was wondering if you could printer the hyper cube parts. That if you are still taking request
I could print it for you, depending on your location.
@@junkang5546 an located in Quebec Canada
@@keithweekes602 Sadly am located halfway around the world 😂
Thanks any way I found someone locally to print them for me for a small fee
Great video! Thanks for the tips, now I know how to finally fix the gaps between perimeter and solid infill in slic3r! Quick question, have you tried Repetier? It has Sic3r built in but also hosts the print, so you don't need pronterface anymore! Its also a bit newer and has more useful features. If you have, may I ask what you prefer about pronterface?
I haven't used Repetier as of yet, sorry.
No apologies needed! You should try it sometime and see what you think though.
Wow.. talk about quality looking prints!
Can you make HyperCube from scratch not form i3? Like parts links etc? What is the overall cost of building it from scratch? Is it better than cheap kits like flying bear p902?
Can you give a rough estimate on how much filament you would need to print all of these parts?
226grams (as stated in the video, lol)
Oh whoops, I guess I missed it. Thanks!
I just started to look at 3d printing and your build logs are pretty amazing, AND the final quality of the printings is crazy !!
I'd love to start modeling / printing stuff (in good quality) but it looks like a "good" printer is nearly 600 $us, do you think building your printer is something possible for a total noob in 3d printing (I'd find my way in 3d modeling and computer stuff) ?
And would you sell a kit of your printed parts ^^ ?
What brand of PETG are you using? I cannot hear it at all - all i am hearing is Raerum or something, but i cannot find such company.
www.aurarum.com.au/
is there a way to get the stl o slprt files because i need to convert a flyingbear p902.
i meant step files instead of stl, sorry.
Darn, that looks really high quality prints what settings do you use?
There's a great video here that goes over all the settings
ua-cam.com/video/xFt7vzweUiw/v-deo.html
Great work!
You mentioned that people asked you to print some sets for them.
I would like to ask you if it's possible to print one set for me too?
I live in Austria so i don't know if you can ship it to me.
It's great what you are doing for the comunity!
Contact me via PM.
You could go ABS it's super cheap and less flexible. Tho printing is a pain. But enclosing a hypercube is easy
what's the fee for a print and shiped...I'm thinking of building one.trying to do some home work.for right now
Thanks for this video and your video series. ;) I tried your Slic3r settings with PLA. My temp are 210°C and 60 °C for
the heat bed The 3d print for the Fan_Duct was not a big success. I printed all other parts with Cura. They
are really well done except the Fan_Duct. i prefer Cura- ;)
Any Tips? Thanks, i really appreciate that. ;)
Best regards from austria,
Mike
Hi bro...can i know how much will you charge for printing a set and shipping it?
Can these parts be printed with pla with out a problem?
Thanks
Yes you can print them in PLA, just be mindful not to leave the printer in warm environments, like an outdoor shed, as the low glass transition temperature of PLA may cause some parts to deform. The nozzle of the fan duct will probably deform regardless.
Thanks for the information. If you don't mind, do you have any idea about what all the needed parts will cost with out the parts that are made? I was just looking for a ruff idea.
Thanks again for your time. Have a nice weekend.
Hey @Tech2C, what software did you use to design these parts?
Cubify Design
make a tutorial on how to put it together for me im still learing.
I've been watching since the beginning, and man am I really REALLY wanting to build this printer lol. It just looks so nice and prints so well! My current printer is basically the same as this in regards to the fact that it is 'home made'. Its, sadly..... made out of wood and all parts are sourced from just doing research then buying from amazon. It prints really well for being so janky lol. My biggest issue with it currently is Slic3r itself. As you've pointed out, it doesn't quite like to join up walls or even flat surfaces in my case... My current print for example, the first layer and the top layer, are not connected to the walls at all... and instead of being a nice fluid continuous flow of filament coming out for it, slic3r has the printer retracting all over the place because it breaks up the lines in weird ways... dunno why its doing that, but oh well... hoping it doesn't screw up the print currently going on...
But with that aside! I just wanted to say you've done an amazing job with this printer! And I seriously can't wait to actually start building it this coming new year! Gonna use all the christmas money I get this year and hopefully buying all the parts required to start =D Just ordered my first role of PETG from E-Sun as well. Didn't want to go with them, as I normally only use HatchBox filament, but they're completely sold out EVERYWHERE for their PETG it seems... E-Sun was the only manufacturer that kept it under 40 bucks in my area... So here's hoping it works out just fine for printing your parts! =D
Well it sounds like you'll have a blast building the HyperCube :)
I'm interested on buying you this set. How much does it cost ?
I can print one for you :)
Parts are coming in slowly, Banggood shipping takes forever to the US. But it'll hopefully be done before 2017.
Haha, I'm sure you'll get it done before Santa visits ;)
Just got my frame + bed assembled, I posted it as a make on thingiverse. It's the one with black extrusion and blue and white pieces.
Do you think this printer would work well for dual extrusion? I was thinking of whipping up a quick release attatchment to the carriage, and having a carriage with one extruder and another with two, that way I can use the full volume if I want or I can do dual extrusion as well.
I was also considering using single extruder multiextrusion.
Ralphie Vigg
I think the single extruder multi-extrusion would be easier to implement.
Tech2C Yeah probably. I've also seen people putting lasers on their printers and apparently it's working really really well.. thinking about making a different carriage that i can quickly swap out to switch between them. I'm just worried about hurting the adhesion layer on the bed, but it wouldn't be a problem when engraving wood. Very intrigueing. The frame seems more than solid enough to handle the weight of a laser.
Ralphie Vigg
Yeah a laser would work well on here. I was thinking a small drill on a flexible chord to make PCBs from copper boards too.
How would i go about getting a set of these parts and for around how much?
I have found a E-bayer herts58 that will print all the parts for you in PETG material,
all the parts look so good. £45.00 + postage form UK
Hi how do I contact you about perhaps printing me some parts ? the parts I require are much less complicated and I am in australia
WHOW that is some print quality!!! Damn, my UM 2+ doesn't get this quality
only 226g? my mpcnc machine parts weigh 759g and I'm 7 parts from being done.
thats cool though i might build this printer. my prusa clone is a wobbly mess, and i been dieng to make a box frame printer.
Welcome aboard fine Sir. Upgrading an existing printer to this design is why I designed/built it in the first place :)
I would be interested in having you print those parts how much?
I can print them for you if you're still looking :)
Tilen Krivec How much?
Would 100$ work for you? All the parts with 50% infill, slow speeds for
quality finish, 3 perimeters, 3 top and bottom layers, and the price includes the shipping to you
I sent you a message on thigiverse regarding ordering a set of parts. I tried to send a direct message on youtube but it looks like i cannot for some reason ( stupid G+ integration). Shipped to UK , ideally in that sexy silver PETG but any colour PETG is fine if you don't have it.
turn up your retraction acceleration rather than speed ;)
Yep, done that in Marlin already. You know your stuff! Great to see, thanks for sharing!
Could you please elaborate on this?
Randy H. Imagine your in your car. The speed it is set at is the speed limit. The acceleration is how quickly you can hit the limit. If you turn into a road with a 55mph limit but the drive way you're turning onto is only about a hundred feet away. Even flooring it you won't hit the limit before having to slow down to make the turn.
hi which one is better prusa or hypercube .
why should i choose this not prusa
can hypercube parts be used with a 4040 alu profile?
Greeting's, great video series.... In a future video, could you share your Cura setting's... Just did a part with your slic3r setting's. It came out pretty good.
is there a kit I can make that you have ?
what does one of these cost you to build? The similar ft-5 its about $500 us to purchase as a kit.
Anywhere between $50-$300 US depending on if you are upgrading from an older printer to cannibalise its parts, or buying everything new.
How long does it take to print each part?
Great video series. It is really helpful for me as I am also designing my own printer.
For adjusting hole sizes, you can also use XY Size Compensation in Advanced settings in slic3r. It doesn't affect z height as Scale does.
Oh I didn't know about the XY Size Compensation option! Thanks for sharing :)
Whats the best settings for to print 100% infill?
Where can i buy these parts or any similar parts?
I would not to print all parts, but it will melt by stepper motor. Be Carefull. I did print one part for my 3d printer, but got problem with 3d printer. I removed printing part(melting) and old part back. You can print it, not touching hot thing( like with motor, extruder, or hot bed).
Why not check out TileScape DUNGEONS on KICKSTARTER and print out your own dungeons, caverns, sewers and more?
How much filament does it take to print
As always, great video :)
thanks !
tech2c what is the minimum budget to build the hypercube 3d printer?
Probably under US$300, depending on the 2020 extrusion profile cost. Checkout my thingiverse page, I have links to all the items you would need to buy.