Welding Helmets Tips and Tricks
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
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In this video, I talk about lots of different welding helmets, some unusual welding helmets, and some good auto darkening helmets
I started welding with an oxyacetylene torch in the late 1960's, moved on to technology work, and am just coming back to welding again. I did a little stick welding while in college, as well, as part of an industrial engineering course. In those days, a welding helmet was a hood with a dark glass you looked through. My helmet is now about 60 years old (got it used).
No one seems to explain how these new units work, but as I recall, the purpose of a helmet lens was to stop you from going blind from the high intensity ultraviolet light of the weld arc or torch flame, while still making it possible to see what you were doing, and were just dark glass. These new helmet lenses appear to be some kind of active LCD or some such, with the darkening controlled electronically - basically a variable density filter-based glass.
What comes to mind is why the technology popularized by cell phones - i.e. a camera and an LED display screen - wouldn't be the obvious choice to replace filtration lenses. The cameras are autofocus and autoexposure, so they would autodarken in response to the area focused on, and the display would only emit in the range of the visible spectrum that is not dangerous to the human eye - just like you can see the IR emitter in a TV remote if you look at it through a cell phone. Are there such helmets?
Certainly, a battery would be needed, but it would seem that the electronics required would be far less than required for a cell phone, so the batteries (removable/rechargeable would make sense) would last far longer - especially if a solar recharger panel were attached to the front of the helmet to capitalize on the high-intensity light emitted while welding.
There are many videos on UA-cam that talk about helmets and welding, but none I've seen so far that talk about how the helmets accomplish darkening and sight protection. It seems to me that for people new to welding, who haven't been taught by a pro, it would be valuable to discuss this so that they wouldn't make a mistake that costs them their eyesight, while also adding value to their understanding of how things work. I'd be interested in knowing if any of the commentors have seen a video that describes this kind of stuff.
All about welding helmets...Let me know what helmet you like to use. Also , if you like what you saw here, hit that thumbs up button. Or maybe even subscribe to make sure to catch the next video.
i cant afford a super nice helmet but i make do with what i got just a 30.00 kobalt fixed shade from lowes. But if i could have any helmet that i wanted i would just want one signed from Jody because you have made me more confident in my welding and you are set out to help as many people as you can in the world and to me that makes you a hero. so thank you for all your time that you put into these videos and your passion for helping people.
This comment stands true more now than ever, bout brought a tear to ma eye lol cuz I gotta agree, Jody has been such a giver and inspiration in the welding community, a staple in the industry now. And without him, the flame within me may very well have been extinguished quite awhile ago. The way he opened my eyes to what welding CAN be, for ANYone who wants it, just really changed my world. I am one of MANY who agree. Anyway, thanks for this old comment u made
I'd say head position plays a huge part in puddle visibility. Especially in newbies learning the ropes. Moving your head not only changes the perspective of the puddle, but also makes a difference in how the light plays across the bead.
Lighting is a big deal, we all learn to do without, but artificial lighting helps you "see the road". But a lot of us have had that "too much light" moment -- maybe working outside -- when the glare hits the inside of your hood from behind (like the sun). That's a no-go.
Sometime pushing or pulling can make all the difference. If you're in a position where pulling isn't giving you good visibility, try pushing.
Practice, practice, practice -- that will help you the most. Sometimes you can work through a bit of time where you can't see well, based on feel, sound and rhythm. Welding by Braille if you will.
My tips for seeing the puddle are having clean lenses all the way thru, being comfortable, always keeping your head way out of the fumes which usually are directed up from the weld, and trying a low + magnifier lens. It can help even with the best of vision. Also don't look at the arc, look at the edges of the puddle.
l weld on alot of cars, and lighting can be a problem so l have a small hikers light mounted on top of my helmet,this helps to see what your looking at with the helmet down before striking an arc,
awesome tip mr. mustie. loooove your channel also. :)
buy a auto-darkening helmet, they are awesome
That is a great tip. Haven’t thought of it nor tried it but I’m assuming will make a big difference. Cheers Mustie1
@@roki709 They don't work good if you're in a super dark location bro XD
Not uncommon to see that in ship yards. I personally hate hed lamps at you ineviably blibd the guy next to you
When i learned how to weld i used the green autodarkening helmets, but now i bought an ancient fibre metal pipeliner helmet with a gold #10 and i'd never use anything else. i LOVE the gold lens and the clarity that it gives you.
Not sure if you know. be carefull not to scratch a gold lens , that can let in harmfull rays damageing you eyes. Thats only reason i dont like gold lenses.
I have found the welding caps/masks or the autodarkening goggles very handy for welds in the field where you cannot get a full-sized hood into a tight spot to make a weld. However, make sure to have a stout fr balaclava on to make sure you don't burn your hair/face up. Another thing I have found handy is mounting a rifle flashlight to my hood in low-light conditions. I bought some rails and a rifle mounted flashlight (with a usb rechargeable battery) from amazon and mounted one rail to each side of my hood and boom. It gets me through an 8-12 hour day and it is handy when you have your hood down and need to weld something like a knife lug precisely on a mark in low-light conditions. My 3350 took a lickin and kept on tickin.....until last week. It lasted me 4 years and survived a 5 story fall off a building (my hard hat didn't survive but my hood survived). I'm looking at getting speedglas now.
Hey Jody I've been a union ironworker for 19 years. I've welded lots of stick and Flux core but never had the opportunity to weld tig on the job. Thanks to your videos I've recently setup scratch start tig at home. Your videos have helped me so much in learning tig. Thanks a million!!!
19 years!Congratulations bro...I'll have twenty years in June...local 7 Boston...structural guy all the way..just got back from a steelmill shutdown in Ohio.Ive lost a few brother ironworkers over the years,as im sure you have too...thats if you even ARE still alive...which im sure you are!
I bought a Hobart Impact hood for welding school. It's a pretty nice piece. The viewing area is pretty big, it goes from #8-13 shade, has 3 arc sensors, grind mode, and a pretty comfortable head gear... Most of the bells and whistles. Haven't started school yet, so performance is TBD. Just playing around with it at home though, I like it
I got a cheap lincoln knock off from the local welding supply store. It looks identical to your preferred helmet but only cost me $75. When I first started welding I used to put a shop light on the other side of my weld and it helped me to see the puddle and line I was welding (or trying to weld).
Thanks for the awesome videos,
Mike
Thanks Jody. I weld for fun and frustration. I have an inexpensive helmet I got flashed this year using a different machine) and was surprised to find the Viking 3350 affordable. Planning to get one or equivalent. Any suggestions.
I use Mig,Fllux core and Ac
I run a viking 3350 as well, I love it! Coming from a cheap $50 princess auto auto-darkening helmet to the viking was an incredible difference.
Your videos are so valuable. I did purchase a 3M 6000 series half face respirator and it came with two sets of P-100 particulate filters which should protect while sharpening tungsten electrodes, however I would like to know what cartridge you use to protect from Zinc when welding galvanize steel. I do not see a listing for inorganic metallic fume. I have decided to upgrade my cheap auto-darkening helmut to either a Lincoln 3350 or a Jackson BH3 (can't make up my mind) to see forward so I do not wander off the desired line like I tend to do now. My cheap import auto-darkening helmut has never once flashed me but is definitely not clear enough.
Good idea on the give away notification. I'm watching this in 2020.
How was 2020 for ya
Hey I'm watching this in 1974 and none of this stuff has been invented yet.
I have an Eastwood auto darkening helmet and I really like it. I haven't tried any of the really expensive helmets so I don't know what their clarity is like but this one seems very clear to me and the true color feature has helped me see the puddle and where I'm welding much better.
Jody,
Would you consider doing a video on PAPR and other respiratory protection options for welders?
I'm a novice welder currently undergoing a career change in mid-life. I find my older lungs less tolerant of the welding fumes and everything that comes off some of the more toxic metal alloys.
Your experience would be great on a video!
(Really enjoyed the podcast episode on the topic)
Back in the day, when autodarks were crap and crazy expensive, I tried quite a few unique helmets for TIG. One of my favorites was a Bilsom Vision. It has a two stage lens where the whole front is about a shade 4 and is mirrored, then there is an adjustable inset lens that combined with the outer lens takes it to the weld shade level you want. Instead of flipping up your hood, all you had to do was adjust your line of sight to look around the inset filter. It was especially great for tacking things up. And no neck burns like a lot of my coworkers had from using "Shorty" welding helmets. Of course that was back before glasses and cheaters. Now it's autodark all the way with a Balder, and a Jackson Truesight.
Hi Jody,
Excellent review for helmets, I've been using a Speedglass 9002X since it's out may be +/-15 years, I still like it a lot. That series of helmets where probably the first serious auto darkening helmets to come out on the market, just like you say welding machines evolve and helmets are improving.
I'll probably keep this helmet for a while.
To better see the puddle, first, practice makes better, you also have to bring your sight into a small area focusing mode, excluding the unwanted area far from the puddle, this also comes with practice.
A good source of lighting directed on the welding area is also a big plus.
Watching the work a little from the side, not so much from behind, will give better perspective.
Check if your glasses are adjusted properly, now I'm 60 just like Jody's maybe cheater lenses...
And clean lens is a must, when driving, nobody sees when the windshield is full of mud and squished flies...!
Thanks,
Pierre
Had an old Fibre Metal passive when I started, then bought a Jackson NexGen. Used that for many years until it quit working. Went to a Jackson Shadow passive for a while, and just ordered a Balder BH3 - hope I like it.
I'm still using my Huntsman 411p and believe it's the lightest,most indestructible welding helmet made to this day!I understand you can get a auto-darkening attachment and have been considering looking into one but for now(and the last 40+ years) it's everything I could ask for...
I use a fibremetal Honeywell Pipeliner hood with a shade 10 miller auto darkening lens and i absolutely love it!
I have tried a variety of helmets in my forty plus years of welding. I have added auto lenses for upgrading standard style hoods. Took quite a few years before I found one that fit the Jackson Wide View (hood had and has a serious droop problem even with new replacement headgear which is no longer available for it but I still like the wide view). I have used the cheaper ones as I have to watch my shop budget. One big advantage are the self charging (arc and or shop lights and sun all work on my favorite and it has lasted years) auto lens. No batteries to go dead or hard to find locally. The biggest problem I have found always gets back to the headgear. Most droop. Even with an auto darkener that is a royal pain. The Jackson which I bought in the late eighties is the heaviest which is a drawback but I trade it for the view. Some of the newer (mid price) ones are nice and light but none have yet been a winner in the droop category. The newer ones also seem to be getting worse in the friction knobs rather than better. I have a few more years hopefully of welding and I keep hoping for the perfect helmet. The good news is watching AVe testing them with U/V and IR instruments they all protect your eyes filtering 100 per cent of both out even when they haven't darkened. Safety glasses and cheap sun glasses let almost all through to your eyes. Good video. Take care. Doug
I have the Lincoln Viking 3350 and I have been flashed using my Evlerast Lightning MTS 275 on MIG before. Not sure if I was just having some weird issue. Haven't had a problem with it flashing me on TIG though, even if I go for the HF start and an arc doesn't form because I'm too far away (practice practice), it still darkens on TIG. (I always leave the sensitivity on high, speed on maximum).
In that case I guess nothing beats just a regular shaded lens. Except one thing I'd love to see become a commercial technology: VR goggles + cameras. Could massively improve visibility and eliminate the risk of flashing since the VR screen wouldn't be able to replicate UV or extremely high light levels. I know there's at least one person that's tried this. Don't feel like spending several hundred on VR goggles to experiment right now though.
Thanks Jody for this video. I just recently finished a welding class and, since I only see out of my right eye (left was retina damaged when I was a kid), the helmet became the biggest obstacle to me progressing my skills. I started out with a Harbor Frt auto helmet and after it became apparent I wasn't seeing too good, my instructor recommended the Jackson with a gold 10 lens. He was a proponent of those standard types because he wanted us to learn to use them first.
I was able to see much better with the Jackson but tacking was a hassle so I researched and bought a Lincoln 3350. You are so right about that helmet. I love it! It instantly made things better. I'm still building skills but think I have the right helmet to progress. So, now I have the start of a helmet collection although not as many as you.
Thanks
good luck with your learning and also your welding career
Great review. Love the helmet museum wall. My old Jackson Shadow professional was retired 4 years ago for a Snappy truck special, ( not Officially Snap On) it workes fine, but the Viking or Miller Infinity look like a huge step up. Had a original Speed glass, sad to say took a dirt nap many years back. wich hood is better a Viking or Infinity?
Thanks for the excellent video which explains why some auto-darkening helmets don't work with inverters. I never expected that as common sense would suggest that the light coming from the arc would be the same. Whoops!
Hello Jody, Good video on the various helmets but you left out an important part. What are your views on the different headgear available on those helmets and others? I have fought slipping helmets, ratchets without the right adjustment or slipping ratchets, ones that rode too low or too high (not enough adjustment on the top strap) ones that wore grooves in my forehead, fleeces that slid off to the side..... well I am sure you know the story. So which ones are 'good' out there? Thanks again for your valuable series on welding. I have a collection of helmets going back to the seventies and I have to say I really haven't found a perfectly comfortable helmet yet. Although the auto darkening eliminated the droopy problem they still all seem to have rather irritating shortcomings, at least the few I have owned. Maybe there are some good ones out there? Thanks again. Take care. Doug
I just bought a new Lincoln Viking helmet with the 4c tech and holy cow what a view! The headgear is awesome too. My view looks like the arc shots in Jody's videos now.
I have a Harbor Freight auto dark helmet. Bought it 2004 for a high school class. I have not used a passive hood since.
My freshman and Sophomore weld classes all we had was old passives. Junior year of high school, I got accepted to the vocational program. Spend half the day in regular school and half the day at a multi-school-district campus learning your chosen trade.
We had to have our own helmets and they had to be auto.
Used it for the school year and it sat on a shelf in my bedroom for about 8 years before it ever saw the light of day again.
Still works fine. I can see, I can weld somewhat. head band ratchet works smooth enough. Flip down ratchets work ok. And I still prefer to use the shade adjuster at a 9.5
Works for me! lol
I got that speed glass type you showed from Snap on in early 90's. Cost me $500 but I learned to weld with it cuz I could see all the time. I bought it along with a 110 volt Snap on welder. Used welder for about 5 years before graduating to a Millermatic 185 with an additional spool gun for aluminum.
I'm currently using a Kobalt auto dark, it was one of the more costly ones they make coming in at about $150, I really don't have anything bad as far as dislikes with it.... My biggest gripe is with the positioning adjustment not working as well as I'd like, and maybe that the adjustment for holding it up while still being able to drop it with a head nod being really annoying to keep dialed in... Otherwise it's awesome! However I have my mind solidly set on the Viking when I am able to upgrade!a friend of mine let me take his for a test ride, and I was blown away! Most comfortable hood I've ever wrapped around my skull!! Certainly the Cadillac of welding hoods!
Back in the 70's I had a Huntsman. 411p hood, being it's made of pressed board it was ok till I left it in the rain and it soaked up water and warped, then I couldn't wear it anymore.
I use Johnson Pledge spray furniture polish, really cleans and clears up a dirty lens, worked great.
l I've been using a Miller Elite hood, I don't like it because every 15 minutes the helmet is idle it turns off, and I forget to push the button to turn it on again and get flashed.
Great Video. Thanks
I have two Jackson Translight helmets. One is battery and the other solar. I bought the battery one about 20yrs ago for £200 and got the solar helmet for nothing! No problems with the auto lens, but the retainer springs on the battery one broke years ago. I replaced them with a cut down 2.5mm welding rod bent to shape!
Hello Jody, i want to thank you for posting all these videos they are very informative, i have a question for you... I have a miller digital Elite 4 sensors and a lincoln 3350 4 sensors also which I haven't used yet, i started using the miller first, can you tell me what number settings are you using on your lincoln and then if you can tell me on the miller, I'm learning mig at this point had some practice back in junior high school but that was a long time ago and pretty much forgot what I learned. I am using a lincoln 140hd welder from Home Depot which uses house hold current it's being used in my garage for small projects right now, i definitely need practice for I'm trying to spend some time on it when I can, also what settings do you recommend, i have it set on 6 wire feed and on C or D for voltage, i know it depends on what I'm welding forgive me for sounding a little stupid but like i said i really want to get back into it. Thank you Jody!
I use the lincoln viking 3350, and i love it, great viewing angle, really clear, and theres so much adjustment in the head gear itll fit just about anyone, plus the mojo graphics look sweet
I recently got a 3M speedglas 9100 its the recent model, and in my opinion one of the best helmets Ive used
Hi Jody. I'm in a welding education and I think MMA stickwelding is kind of hard and for sure it's a great challenge, it's fun and I really wanna get better and better. Do you have any video of that sort of welding?
Thank you very much again. I use a $40. Harbor Freight helmet and love it. No inverter welding. And I put tape around the outer clear shield to keep the working parts clean.
Very helpful
I get flashed on my Miller digital elite every once in a while. I never put it together but I only get it when practicing tig on cards = low amp!
What do I do about it?
Buy another helmet or can I get a non darkening cartridge?
Jody, you are a national treasure for anyone wanting to learn to weld. Make that an international treasure!!! I am 66 years old and am trying to learn new things and better technique. About 45 years ago, I worked as a tractor-trailer mechanic an did some stick welding occasionally, but I never had a decent chance to learn proper methods. Now, in retirement I'm taking lessons from you and having a blast. However, being 66 and having a ton of astigmatism (glare really bothers me), I'm seeing that I'm not seeing really well and I'm going to try some different things to compensate. I see that there are 317 comments at this date, so I must not be alone!Thanks again for all you do to help others!
I purchased an Optrel made in Switzerland auto darkening helmet back in 95, cost about 900 British pounds including the breathing gear,I think back then there was around two and a half dollars to the pound. That was very good and lasted until five years ago when the lens started to delaminate and went permanently dark, it never flashed me even with inverters but it would switch to dark under low-bay lights (sodium discharge) as used in many factories and ware houses. I found that it was not the brightness of the light that made them change to dark but the pulsating of the infrared from the weld, if you hold them up to the sun and wave your fingers in front fast enough they will change also I found that a TV remote would change them to dark, I had a bit of fun after that making people think there was something wrong with their helmet using an old tv remote in my pocket, the infrared went though overalls material.
weldingtipsandtricks Jody, I recently just purchased the Viking 3350 (same helmet as you) and I noticed the auto darkening cartridge moves a little bit in the helmet, even when the 2 clips are locked in place. Is is happening on your helmet too? thanks
I started on a passive Jackson Shadow with a #10 green glass lens. Then after getting that down I got a NexGen lens for it and have used that for 10 years now. If that dies then I'll probably get a Miller Digital Elite. I'm currently trying out a pair of Servore auto Weld goggles the Arc-513. I figure they will be handy in tight spots. My heart still longs for a pipeliner's hood just because.
You have the most excellent information. I don't wear glasses but a 1.5 cheapo dollar store pair of reading glasses makes the puddle much easier to see. I remember having trouble seeing the puddle and work piece when first starting out. I think a lot of that is just experience. The more you practice the more you see. There's a lot to get use to and learn when starting. Practicing every day for a couple months will get someone where they want to be. Trying to weld every once in a while just won't produce consistency. I have the Lincoln 3350 and I couldn't be more satisfied with it
I use a Speedglass 9100x and I love it for the most part. The company I work for provides everything when it comes to supplies so I never have to worry about a dirty lens. I have to say, that polish could really save a guy/company some money!
how long will the electronics last in the auto helmets?
i have a miller, not the top of the line, but a what they claim is the professional grade. It's hot here, i hate to use it for stick welding, it's getting beat up, but thru the summer i've dipped so much sweat in it, i/m afraid it may short out. How much of a risk is this, and what would you recommend for a stick welding helmet, auto
also, i have a 225 lincoln now, but i would like to get an inverter, what would be your 3 choices, i'm looking at everlast, but many say they have issues with the quality, seems hit or miss. is it a short life,waste of money ~ stick with miller or lincoln? i would like to get the plasma cutter, tig combo
thanks for the great info
Started with MIG back in 1995-ish with a non-darkening fixed lens. It didn't even have the little "mailslot" flip up. Fast forward to 2009 or so and I bought myself a Lincoln Precision TIG 225 machine and a Lincoln Vista 3000, I think this was before the Viking line you have was introduced. It has an auto darkening lens with a huge viewing area. Occasionally the helmet will flip down on me and slams into my clavicle. Other than that it's been fine. The harbor freight one is junk and there's a Kobalt one sold at Lowes that is decent. I've also used a Snap On branded one that had a green lens which was the only one I've used with that color, most seem amber/orange.
Using a darker shade helps the puddle stand out for me vs the base metal. I don't do much of anything larger than 60 thousandths though so not a lot of current being used.
I know this is an old video but you mentioned wearing a respirator. Just wondering what you would recommend for long term solution, disposable 3m, miller mask with disposable filters or the big daddy helmets with waist belt and air feed? I'm a subscriber, thanks for the content
I love experienced advise over speculations; I use a welder and helmet that are older than me I inherit from my grandfather. He always told me "heavier weld darker lens" referring to current and gases.
Would you say a 300 dollar helmet would make any difference for a guy who just does small weekend projects? I have the cheapo auto darken helmet from harbor freight but I have always wondered if it would make a big difference.
i have a question for you. when you video you welding how do you have the camera to see the weld like that. Do you put some kind of lens over camera
I am looking into doing videos when welding, if you have a solution please do share.
Ha, 4 years later and I still find new videos. That little cap was exactly the product I was brainstorming the other day when I was remembering a little oddjob I did for an acquaintance a few months ago which required me to slide under his little tuner hatchback which had a broken exhaust mount he needed reattached. I got the job done, but wasn't happy with the overall quality which was mainly affected by my bulky miller helmet keeping me really far back from the weld. He waa happy though, and he took it to the track the next day and passed all his inspections and it's held up since. Seeing as the charge was a pack of beer I'd say everybody was a winner :)
I like my Viking 3350 as well, it's seamlessly fast, first thing i look for in a helmet and i like the battery backup so its ready to go whether the caps are charged or not. Viewing area is amazing and helps me be at my best. Being a we bit front heavy with the big lense took a little getting used to but now i don't even notice that. Lovin the large fast lense.
Once again a great video on welding! It's the first time I have ever seen a review on welding helmets. I also have a couple of helmets. I guess I'm getting old and tired. My auto darkening helmet just seems too dark on 9 - 10 setting. My question. My helmet is seven years old. Do the self darkening lenses get darker over time? (Perhaps my eyes are getting old and tired?) Another question. Even with anti-fog on my glasses they still get wet from all of the perspiration under the helmet. How do you professional guys handle all of the sweat inside the helmet?
I tried the $20.00 Harbor Freight auto dark at my home shop because I got tired of bringing my Lincoln back and forth from work. It was ok for the home shop until I used it with an inverter tig. When I dipped the rod in the puddle it completed an electromagnetic field that shut off the auto dark and defaulted to grind mode. I couldn't even tell you where that P.O.S. is now.
I never thought of this but that brings up a good question. Does High Frequency effect auto darkening hoods any? Im sure when they first came out they probably did. But i dont know. That might be why so e mess up when going from transformer to inverter.
My two go to helmets are my rhino auto darkening shield and a Jackson eqc professional I mostly use my rhino helmet for tig and light duty mig and my Jackson for stick and dual shielded flux core. Both are great helmets I would suggest getting a rhino helmet before the price goes up more.
I use to have my dads old Jackson fiber board helmet. I loved it. It was perfect when it was time to weld you did the welder head nod and down it went and you started to burn.
I have been using a Kempi Beta 90X for over 15 years, It was $800+ here in Australia when i bought it. The last couple of years I have been using a Speedglas Flip-Up Welding Helmet 9100XXi FX Air with Adflo PAPR that cost me $2000 here in Australia.
Rosco in Australia here,I like the gold glass lenses about 11 shade for me.I have tried the auto hoods but I was doing a lot of very quick tacking and at the end of the days got flashed but that was a few generations of hood ago.I just like the passive flip down hood,old school I suppose and they are really cheap here in Aussie,$12 will buy you a cheap hood for rough jobs in the field where they tend to get trashed and dirty.I have even modded a hood to have air blow on the inside of the lense on those days when the breath condenses and makes it hard to see ,also good on really hot days and it gets hot here.Try welding in all the gear in 42c temp,not nice cheers Ross
thanks jody great talk and tell > the old school pipe fitters helmet w/ a flip front cover lens, beanie and half jacket...l like yours also. the two hand method shown in some of your other videos, to me, explains how some of the other models came about - quite the collection. again thanks
After 50 years of welding I think you have my collection beat a little bit. I still go back and use all mine at one time or another. Cheaters have become my go to now.
What do you think about miller elites? I have been using them for almost 6 years now and feel they work great. Just wondering if you have any experience with them and what you think.
I have a miller digital elite. Like it. But I like the Lincoln Viking 3350 better
Hey I am new to welding. I just picked up an auto darkening helmet and it worked great when we were cutting up a car. The only problem is that the lenses are kind of blurry or foggy looking. Is there something wrong with it or are they dirty?
I got mine from Canadian tire for 100 bucks and its really good. Its got the sensitivity settings to auto darking and the amount of lenses you want to use ranging from 9-14 I think. Also clear lense for grinding.
Do you have any experience using the higher end SpeedGlas or the Miller Infinity? How do they compare to the Viking 3350 and the BH3? I've never been able to use any of them but I've tried on the SpeedGlas and the Infinity. I preferred the fit, comfort, and viewing area of the Infinity over the SpeedGlas. I've found all of them, except the SpeedGlas, for under $300. I'm a Sheet Metal worker by trade and welding anything over 1/2" plate isn't too common but I have seen guys have to weld up to 2" plate on jobs. I'm looking for a hood that will be great at MIG, TIG, and stick welding. Any advise or opinions on the BH3, Viking, and Infinity?
Great video Jody....the new generation Lincoln viking 3350's are 100% better than the previous model much clearer view and better headgear
I love the weldcap, love the BH3, love the vulcanized fiber Huntsman with a Lincoln 4c auto dark fixed shade. Can't decide what I wanna buy next.
Ive used a lincoln electric standard dark, recently burned the stuffs out of my eyes trying to cheat a peek under my hood for quick tacks. LE viking sounds like a common solution. I was learned old school without the auto or flip screen. Trying to adjust to maybe something with more coverage or an easier peeking option. My second thought was to go for the huntsman.
All good looking hoods brother
I use an old pipeliner hood for almost everything. They are robust, always work, and they are a lot more heat resistant than most others. As someone with a very short focal length on my eyes, being able to get in close to the puddle is important. I still use the ratchet strap, but i have swapped the tensioner knobs for some big bolts to help make sure that they don't come loose.
Jody, I’m just a home diyer That has a cheap 90amp flux core welder at home for odd jobs. I did spent a few extra bucks and get a Lincoln Viking auto darkening similar to yours. After installing new good batteries, I can’t seem to see the bead or weld puddle. I can focus on the work just fine in grind mode so don’t think that the problem when welding. On thin metal (thicker than sheet metal) of course it burns through even on the low min setting because I’m looking for the glow of the bead. (Yes I am in weld mode not grind mode - haha).
Luckily I’ve not gotten flash burn because I made the sensitivity and delay settings. I started with darkening setting of 10 and gone both ways but still not able to see the puddle. Any help would be very much appreciated!
Had a Miller elite and loved it. Eventually sold it for 30 bucks lol. Use a Hobart knockdown now and it works great and is cheap to maintain. Would love to invest in another Miller eventually though.
I love my Miller auto dark, but I like the passive because of the weight. It's not a big deal, but when you go from one to the other, you'll notice the difference. Also, how the headgear fits is a huge thing for me, especially for passive; how tight you can get it to stay up vs. how much head bump you need to bring it down, matters.
I'd like to see what your professional opinion is on more helmets please.
Good one!
hiquality_distraction I
My helmet is a simple one I got from Home Depot but it uses a solar panel to turn on or off so I don't have to worry about batteries. Works great with both my Mig and my Transformer Tig welder. I hear about all these helmets but they use batteries. Seems odd if the arc from any welder would be strong enough to power the solar panel and while there is power the lens is dark. As soon as your off the arc the lens is clear again. Never an issue for the past 4 years. I don't like the fit on the head but I do like the way the thing works without a battery.
Double-check your lens: my solar auto-darkening has battery back-up, takes 2 CR2450 lithium batteries. I think my shield was about six years old when I found this out (mine's a Miller Digital Elite)
I just got a Lincoln Viking 3350 hood on Saturday! I can’t wait to start using it
how did you like it i was debating on the 3350 and a hf vulcan
Hello Jody, I'm trying to find my new welding helmet because my 3 years old China made helmet is too dark for me. I can't see nothing but arc even in lowest DIN setting. I'm thinking about Lincoln Viking Tribal 1840 Welding Helmet, but can't try out by myself because I'm living in Czech Republic and there's no Lincoln product available in the welding stores. Is Lincoln Viking 1840 Helmet good helmet for MIG welding car guy or do You recommend something else? Is it wort the money? Thanks John
So ive been welding in school for 3 years now and I use a nice Miller Elite....my neck has been hurting and im curious to see if you guys would suggest keeping the hood down as its a shade 3 when not darkened. sadly our shop is very dark.... help? lol
I've been welding for a mechanical company for about 2 1/2 years now mostly stick and some tig pipe. I try to get lower cost helmets so it's not such a big deal if one gets stolen or smashed. I have had the northern tool helmet, Miller classic, Miller digital infinity I only pull out for long tig jobs and the 1740 entry level Lincoln viking. I would pick the northern tool or the Lincoln over ether of the Miller's. The infinity is way to front heavy, won't stay up, and had to add a second sweat band to get it to tighten on my head. And the much cheaper Viking still had it beat for clarity. As far as the Miller classic, it would not stay snapped together I was constantly cleaning behind the clear front lense and the auto dark. Miller has some great products, but not their welding helmets
My favorite lens is the ArcOne lens. My last one lasted 15 years. It works great and requires no batteries. It's the best auto darkening lens I've found by far.
Sweet I was hoping for a video about this. I just picked up an accustrike myself. Still trying to get it adjusted just right, I definitely dig the quick action, but being a novice welder I have flashed myself a couple times.
Huntsman, Jackson, Hobo Freight, Kobalt... I've been through a few.. LOL 😎 😂🤣
Best one I ever had was a Jackson with the big lense. The whole center section of the helmet lifted separate from the rest.. a little heavier, but an Awesome helmet!!!
The local tool store has an auto darken lense, I drooled over it for a couple of years, just couldn't justify $99.99 at the time.
I finally bought it! It was the icing on the cake!!! Cleared to about a 1, green... Easy to see through.
Darkened to a 10. Field of view was decent size.
After about ten years, it flashed me!!!!! The manufacturer had a 100% lifetime warranty, unfortunately, mine out lived the 180 year old company 😪
Seems they should have used a little bigger wires in it. Over time, expansion and contraction would break the wires.
Sadly, that one product was so popular, and they honored their warranty...all the way to bankruptcy. They closed the doors two months before mine failed.
It beat anything I've seen since!!!
Cheap Hobo Freight are just that.. the black make it about a year, the black with the blue stickers almost two years... I got four years out of their fancier red helmet.
Currently using a $60?$80?? Kobalt.. three years so far..
I know this is an older video, but still good!! And a great topic!! thanks for the video!
Can UV/IR wear away the protective coating on the front of the auto darkening lens? My nose felt like it was slightly sunburned. Maybe it was irritation from something else, but I’m just wondering if that’s possible?
That's a really good tip about some auto-dark sensors not being able to pick up a TIG flash fast enough. I do mostly mig and a little stick welding on AC and DC, but if I ever try TIG I'll be especially cautious.
This is going to sound extremely stupid but do all welding helmets and goggles (assuming they are from reputable brands) come with UV and IR protection as standard? Browsing some of these sites and looking for a purchase I don't always see it in the specifications. Thanks for the video weldingtipsandtricks, I'm just now slowly getting into this welding deal after years of considering it.
I'm very new to welding. I've been teaching myself for a year or so and will be starting school this fall. If anybody has a good helmet I could buy for cheap I would greatly appreciate it! I have a harbor freight auto darkener but it pretty crappy. Thanks to everyone who has helped me with there comments and everyone who makes these awesome videos!
I had lenses implanted in my eyes due to cataracts that had built in UV protection. I noticed shortly thereafter that I was having a little more trouble seeing the bead than I used to. I don't know if the UV protected lenses were the problem or not but I think I'll try a gold lens to see if that helps.
Great video. I'm kind of stuck to my pipeliner hood as my go to for pretty much everything but I do have quite the collection of others that I use here and there. I want to get somthing good for some confined space welding. You showed one in a video a while back, I think when you were at fab tech, and it looking pretty good but I can't remember the name or find the video. I think it was a white color. Let me know if you do remember what I'm referring too. And for some reason the audio cut out at the end of video. But anyway awesome video as usual. If you do happen to remember the helmet I'm talking about, please let me know. Thanks again!
Hi, really like your videos. I can see the weld real good in your videos but when I put on my auto helmet I just don't see what I do on your video. What setting have you set on the helmet? I would love to see that pool of metal!
Found the answer. One said to turn on a bright light for welding and that seemed to help.
I bought a Jegs three sensor plus one on the outside and I am new to welding. I have not been able to adjust it to be able to see good enough while I am welding. Also being new to welding is one thing, but can't see good enough to weld is causing me to get discouraged. If you could give me some advise, I would be very thankful. Ronnie.
Excellent video, something that is important but often overlooked. I have a miller elite, am looking to buy a second backup and I will probably go for the lincoln 3350, if it's your 'go to' helmet then it's probably pretty good.
I'm just starting to stick weld and want a helmet which auto dark do you think works well I'm using a Miller thunderbolt
i have an auto dark helmet with a solar panel charger, got flash a few times since it died but over all fits good and works great i can see everything not many problems but since i’m just getting into welding my father wanted me to start with that and it’s a great beginner helmet ( make sure it’s fully charged haha )
I just obtained a #8 lens shade along with a gold #10 and when I compared the two the #8 is not very much lighter. I realize that to do good work you need to see the area around the weld puddle . . . am I wrong??? I use a pipe liner fiber helmet ; given the problems with the former self darkening lenses I haven't missed anything using a fixed or passive lens shade; but, no body is talking about the #8 passive lens shade. Probably because everyone started using the #10 shade and never questioned the reason not seeing their work more clearly.
ahhh 411p huntsman is my favorite hood I have and it was originally my dads which makes it over 20+ years old!
the day it breaks I don't know what I would do with myself. one of the best hoods I've ever seen
ThankQ for the gr8 info, Iam a Aluminum boat welder i use MIG Pulsed machine i want to invest in a helmet with a PAPR system so what do u recommend
That Optrel hat-thing looks sort of terrible, except when crawling around under a car trying to weld exhaust or something. It's infuriating resting your head on the damn adjuster on a normal helmet and losing out on vertical space.
I am jjust starting out. Would you recommend a full face viewing shield or the 2 x 4 1/4 viewing lens?
I imported from the UK the actual Balder (slovenia) version of the jackson Balder bh3 wh70 you guys get in the states and Jody shows in this video. It looks like the headgear might be a little different on the Jackson version. I really really like the headgear on this helmet (Balder version) its lite and the actuation and way it pivots down is the best I have used. The only thing I dont like about this helmet is the two sensors and the sensitivity dial.... I do find myself either knocking that dial somehow and it backs off sensitivity and flashes me or certain positions it just doesnt work well if they fix that I do think it will be the best helmet you can get just about... I also think the Miller elite and the latest Lincoln helmets are very good. I do prefer the blueish tint colour on the Balder though its just really nice.
Auto dark is for school kids. I been running a Jackson with a modified head gear and a gold passive lens for 13 years and the only one getting flashed is the genius standing next to me with his auto dark up cause he don't realize I'm about to strike. I struck and flip at the same time. Btw.. Gold is amazing! hard to find these days tho. Auto dark green gives me a gnarly head ache. I've heard good things about the Jackson True Sight amber.. but I'm not spending a couple hundo on a lens! Head gear.. get some sheep skin for your forehead.. it helps so much with numbness. Otherwise.. it's trial and error to get what you like. My hood stays on my head without moving around, but it's not even that tight, I can wear it 14 hours without discomfort. Took me years to get that figured out tho!