Thanks for this video Ed. All the symptoms mentioned were happening - system cutting out after 8 mins, white smoke etc. I carefully spliced in the cable as suggested and then connected this cable to the brown negative in the main junction box. Bingo, the system is running perfectly again. This was a fantastic help and saved me a fortune.
Thanks very much for your video. I've just followed your advice and my narrow boat's 8 year old D4WSC, which has been pulsing for ages, is now running normally again. I connected a new wire with a small bit of cheeseblock into the brown wire inside the unit, fed it out by the main lead and then soldered the other end to the brown wire next to the plug on the lead. This saved running a much longer wire back to the connections inside the boat. I reckon I owe you a few pints!
Considering this gets worse over time, I would think it's more a bad connection that simply needs cleaning, crimping, and resprung moreso than an undersized gauge ground wire. Thanks for bringing this to our attention... mine is doing exactly this. I figured the fan motor was 20yrs old and sucking wind
Thank you so much. Fixed my blower F30 error with jumper from the brown wire to ground. Runs perfect now. You saved me a ton of money by not throwing parts at it.
I have been having the exact same problems with my Eberspacher D4WSC that you highlighted in your video and had spent a lot of time trying to work out what was going on. Just followed what you cover in your video and the heater is now working as it should. What a great early Christmas present. Thanks Ed 👍👍
Interesting video Ed, thanks! My D5WS (water) starts up fine, generate nice heat through out the boat (40 feet) for 10-15min and then stops. Can't say it generates more spoke though, and seems fuel pump stops before the heater. I can't read out fault codes, till check the earth according to your video. Happy New Year! Nik
in the ECU, the connector pins on the printet circut board for the air blower are broken. The rest rings around the drills are very small .... to small. You can try to resolder these pins. - drill the ECU case with flat 12mm drill from behind, - remove the silicon, - free and clean the pins. You will see the brocken contakt. - clean it with aceton (aceton solve silicon) - polish the pin - preheat the ECU aprox. 80°C - resolder the pin with no-clean solder (paste or wire)
Do you know what would cause the dosing pump to not back off in the SMALL/LOW stage, when the fan backs off? This results in too much diesel during the LOW stage. Would it be the ECU?
So the brown wire between the main connection ? and the ecu goes bad and you make splice on a new ground wire and connect? is that correct.. just the wire.. so i can use any groundpoint on the car to the outlet of ecu?
You have to splice a cable to the brown airmotor lead. Probably easiest to take this back to the brown blower connection inside the junction box which is often unused but it can go to any negative connection. Hope that makes sense and it works. Good luck. Cheers, Ed
@@edshiersfourcountiesmarine6677 Thank you very much ,my heater work again.for morethan 30 day i was read only foult code 30 and the heater 5dwsc wont work.i do what i read in manual for 30 foult code but nothing(i mesured rpmfrom propeler ,was ok,i verify exhaust ant intake was ok ,i verify conexion was ok )but when i splice the brown cable and i put this to ground ,now the heater works ok.
I found that there is no GND on brown motor lead at all. Connected brown motor lead to main GND inside the blower. In my case, when I push the connector on the control unit to the side, the GND to the motor is ok, when release, it's open loop. So, thank You for this video, hope this will fix this unit, waiting for the gaskets.
@@TravelsWithMartinassume there's no heat/ignition then. Next thing to check is fuel quantity to burner on startup cycle. Would be useful to know the fault codes if u have the diagnostic timer. If not.i will message u some contacts who might be able to help..👍
@@edshiersfourcountiesmarine6677 hi chap, changed glow plug… it fires up and does get warm but then shuts off after a couple of mins, the exhaust is now clear etc, voltage is all good and same issue when engine is running ? Any ideas
thanks,your fix worked perfectly on a friends boat,saved her £850 for a new heater,thanks again
Thanks for this video Ed. All the symptoms mentioned were happening - system cutting out after 8 mins, white smoke etc. I carefully spliced in the cable as suggested and then connected this cable to the brown negative in the main junction box. Bingo, the system is running perfectly again. This was a fantastic help and saved me a fortune.
Great!🙂 Thanks for feedback and glad the video made sense.👍
Thanks very much for your video. I've just followed your advice and my narrow boat's 8 year old D4WSC, which has been pulsing for ages, is now running normally again.
I connected a new wire with a small bit of cheeseblock into the brown wire inside the unit, fed it out by the main lead and then soldered the other end to the brown wire next to the plug on the lead. This saved running a much longer wire back to the connections inside the boat.
I reckon I owe you a few pints!
Considering this gets worse over time, I would think it's more a bad connection that simply needs cleaning, crimping, and resprung moreso than an undersized gauge ground wire. Thanks for bringing this to our attention... mine is doing exactly this. I figured the fan motor was 20yrs old and sucking wind
Thank you so much. Fixed my blower F30 error with jumper from the brown wire to ground. Runs perfect now. You saved me a ton of money by not throwing parts at it.
Thank you for posting this, did this mod to my d5wsc today and it worked 👍 just saved me a new ecu😎
Thanks for the feedback.. Great that it worked..
oh my god! this really helped me save some dollars and now the car can be preheated before grandma gets in. Thank you very much for this video
Great, nice that it worked!
I have been having the exact same problems with my Eberspacher D4WSC that you highlighted in your video and had spent a lot of time trying to work out what was going on.
Just followed what you cover in your video and the heater is now working as it should. What a great early Christmas present. Thanks Ed 👍👍
Interesting video Ed, thanks! My D5WS (water) starts up fine, generate nice heat through out the boat (40 feet) for 10-15min and then stops. Can't say it generates more spoke though, and seems fuel pump stops before the heater. I can't read out fault codes, till check the earth according to your video. Happy New Year! Nik
in the ECU, the connector pins on the printet circut board for the air blower are broken. The rest rings around the drills are very small .... to small. You can try to resolder these pins.
- drill the ECU case with flat 12mm drill from behind,
- remove the silicon,
- free and clean the pins. You will see the brocken contakt.
- clean it with aceton (aceton solve silicon)
- polish the pin
- preheat the ECU aprox. 80°C
- resolder the pin with no-clean solder (paste or wire)
Do you know what would cause the dosing pump to not back off in the SMALL/LOW stage, when the fan backs off? This results in too much diesel during the LOW stage. Would it be the ECU?
So the brown wire between the main connection ? and the ecu goes bad and you make splice on a new ground wire and connect?
is that correct.. just the wire.. so i can use any groundpoint on the car to the outlet of ecu?
Hello, can you explain how to run on this device without car? Just like you do this on this video.
Hello ,ihave same problem with code 30 ,can you explain exactly were you put the negative wire from junction box ?
You have to splice a cable to the brown airmotor lead. Probably easiest to take this back to the brown blower connection inside the junction box which is often unused but it can go to any negative connection. Hope that makes sense and it works. Good luck. Cheers, Ed
@@edshiersfourcountiesmarine6677 Thank you very much ,my heater work again.for morethan 30 day i was read only foult code 30 and the heater 5dwsc wont work.i do what i read in manual for 30 foult code but nothing(i mesured rpmfrom propeler ,was ok,i verify exhaust ant intake was ok ,i verify conexion was ok )but when i splice the brown cable and i put this to ground ,now the heater works ok.
I found that there is no GND on brown motor lead at all. Connected brown motor lead to main GND inside the blower. In my case, when I push the connector on the control unit to the side, the GND to the motor is ok, when release, it's open loop. So, thank You for this video, hope this will fix this unit, waiting for the gaskets.
Maybe you can make a short video about your control box? Would be interesting
Thank you very much!!
Hi, my d5w starts then shuts off, any ideas
Hi Martin. Any different with the engine running? Do you hear ignition with any heat/roar from the exhaust?
@@edshiersfourcountiesmarine6677 pump working, new fuses throughout and does all the start up, just doesn’t fire up
@@TravelsWithMartinassume there's no heat/ignition then. Next thing to check is fuel quantity to burner on startup cycle. Would be useful to know the fault codes if u have the diagnostic timer. If not.i will message u some contacts who might be able to help..👍
@@edshiersfourcountiesmarine6677 hi chap, changed glow plug… it fires up and does get warm but then shuts off after a couple of mins, the exhaust is now clear etc, voltage is all good and same issue when engine is running ? Any ideas
I have no other source of heating and it’s freezing :(