These video overhaul sets are gold for anyone wanting to get their hands into restoring, Thank you soo much for taking the time to document your overhauls.
That was a lot of work for this old horn. I had one like it in the 70s that my mom paid $100 for and I hated that horn because it had so many problems. I did take it completely apart at one time and used silver polish to make it look nicer but it never plaid well, had a bad octave mechanism that was unreliable. Anyway years later I bought a tenor Buescher from 1939 on ebay for $750 and paid to have it repadded. It sounded almost as good as a Selmer. That was a nice horn, but my son took it after he played it in high school. Enjoyed watching your work.
Thank you for publishing these videos! I have a silver C melody saxophone from the same era that I've been in the midst of fixing up and your videos have given me a good direction to continue on!
I repad a lot of saxes, but have learned a lot about home made tools watching your vids. I'm puzzled why you chose to make the springs from new stock. I have done around 50 saxes in the last 20 years, and I can usually re use All the original springs. This saves a lot of time, and the originals on older horns are usually made better than modern ones. A trick is to line up the flattened area of the spring with the original slot in the post. It can weaken the brass by forcing a spring to seat in a different place. Once in awhile you break a spring or they have gotten loose, so you occasionally have to replace one. I have ordered a heat gun like yours since I think it would be kinder to the keys than a torch. I have had bad luck with "Tech " cork like products - seems its cork pieces in rubber matrix. Tech cork doesnt sand well, is softer than regular cork ( like on key feet) and tends to come apart on necks over time. I would not use it for necks on my horn, but its OK for a student play condition. Same thing for Valentino Synthetic neck corks. Ok for a emergency, but the adhesive moves and comes away in time. I have found a genuine cork can last 50 years if cared for. Holtons sound great. Some 50s models are really nice players. Look for the ones with round key guard feet. Older Conns - before 1925, Martins and Older Holtons have the same problem with tone hole solder corroding out. Kings, on the other hand have almost no problem with their tone holes because they use higher temp brazed on holes. A King will only have trouble when the hole is damaged. Courtier( Lyon and Healy, American artist, etc) have leaky tone holes too.
The hoards of Holton afficianados will tell you Holton's were as good as any other American saxophone. The Soldered on tone holes can be a bummer (ditto Martin) and even Buescher employed this method at one point. Early German made Keilwerth saxes has soldered tone holes too.
These video overhaul sets are gold for anyone wanting to get their hands into restoring, Thank you soo much for taking the time to document your overhauls.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching.
That was a lot of work for this old horn. I had one like it in the 70s that my mom paid $100 for and I hated that horn because it had so many problems. I did take it completely apart at one time and used silver polish to make it look nicer but it never plaid well, had a bad octave mechanism that was unreliable. Anyway years later I bought a tenor Buescher from 1939 on ebay for $750 and paid to have it repadded. It sounded almost as good as a Selmer. That was a nice horn, but my son took it after he played it in high school. Enjoyed watching your work.
Very detailed video, thank you for the overhaul. This video is saving me a lot of time making sure I have all of the tools that I need.
Thank you for publishing these videos! I have a silver C melody saxophone from the same era that I've been in the midst of fixing up and your videos have given me a good direction to continue on!
You did a really good job and your video is instructive. I watched all 3 parts in one shot. Congrats from France.
Congratulations on your accomplishment! That sounds great. A real classic horn.
Nice work. 😊😊😊
Thanks a lot 😊
Great job man!!
Thanks!
I repad a lot of saxes, but have learned a lot about home made tools watching your vids. I'm puzzled why you chose to make the springs from new stock. I have done around 50 saxes in the last 20 years, and I can usually re use All the original springs. This saves a lot of time, and the originals on older horns are usually made better than modern ones. A trick is to line up the flattened area of the spring with the original slot in the post. It can weaken the brass by forcing a spring to seat in a different place. Once in awhile you break a spring or they have gotten loose, so you occasionally have to replace one. I have ordered a heat gun like yours since I think it would be kinder to the keys than a torch.
I have had bad luck with "Tech " cork like products - seems its cork pieces in rubber matrix. Tech cork doesnt sand well, is softer than regular cork ( like on key feet) and tends to come apart on necks over time. I would not use it for necks on my horn, but its OK for a student play condition. Same thing for Valentino Synthetic neck corks. Ok for a emergency, but the adhesive moves and comes away in time. I have found a genuine cork can last 50 years if cared for.
Holtons sound great. Some 50s models are really nice players. Look for the ones with round key guard feet. Older Conns - before 1925, Martins and Older Holtons have the same problem with tone hole solder corroding out. Kings, on the other hand have almost no problem with their tone holes because they use higher temp brazed on holes. A King will only have trouble when the hole is damaged. Courtier( Lyon and Healy, American artist, etc) have leaky tone holes too.
I replaced the springs simply to gain experience with the process. I have since stopped using tech cork for the reasons you mentioned.
You have to grease the cork and you can sand it with your hands using your fingers, it is easier and more precise.
The hoards of Holton afficianados will tell you Holton's were as good as any other American saxophone. The Soldered on tone holes can be a bummer (ditto Martin) and even Buescher employed this method at one point. Early German made Keilwerth saxes has soldered tone holes too.
Nice Videos! What kind of flux do you use for soft soldering? And how did you make the holes in the knipex pliers?
how did you level those tone holes? the footage is missing
With a flat small piece of sheet brass with a piece of adhesive backed 150 grit sand paper.
The bird said hey I play you some tunes while you work on your sax
Would love to know of the name of the polish compound/jewelery cleaner you mentioned? Thanks!
Hagerty 100
@@HackaweekTV Thanks!
What do you use to cover the tips of the springs?
Pieces of plastic from a spray can. Auto parts stores sell chemical spray cleaners that come with a plastic spray extension.
That sapatyilla is hitting it badly, I think friend, I did not know that it existed, take care and forgive
it seems a C melody saxophone ?