While this might work in your unit, I think it needs to be stressed that this is not a "50 Amp Service out of a 30 Amp power box". A true 50 Amp connection is actually 2 - 50A hot lines, a neutral, and a ground. Where a 30A connection is just a single 30A hot line, a neutral, and a ground. The 50A is capable of 12,000 Watts! Depending on how your rig is wired and what kind of power management system you have, plugging that 50A cord into the 30A dogbone is going to severely limit what you can run. Also, even though that outlet is on a 20A breaker, that GFCI and extension cord you are using is only good for 15A max. A 20A cord will have one of the blades turned sideways. That outlet you installed is good for 1800W MAX, not the 2400W you are suggesting. Personally, I wouldn't trust it with anything more than a combined 1500W. The last thing you want to be doing is putting out a fire behind the wall in your RV! Just my 2 penny's.
Just wire an outlet on the box where your wiring goes into the RV from your generator on the 20amp wiring that goes to your rear ac unit and leave the 30 amp circuit an then plug your 20amp extension cord to the outlet you just wired up an the your regular 30 amp extension cord to your shore power hook up like normally an there u have it 50 amps
You are not getting the same power as with your 50 amp connection - that connection is 50 amps at 240 volts, or 12,000 watts (you have two 120 volt lines, each providing 50 ams @ 120 volts). This work around gives you one 30 amp 120 volt line, and one 20 amp 120 volt line, or 6,000 watts). The various adapters work the same way. Still a useful tip, but don’t plan on having the same amount of electrical capacity as when you’re connected to a true 50 amp, 240 volt supply.
Very misleading as many looking for 30 to 50 amp conversions will think this will get it, and it does not. A 50 amp RV actually has 100 amps available in 2 separate 50 amp lines. Each line feeds approximately half the RV. This set up only adds another 20 amp line to the inside. So all RV appliances are still on the 30 amp line. So while you have 59 amps total, it's still a 30 amp unit with a line of 39 amps. What's done here can be accomplished by running a heavy duty extension cord from the pedestal, through the weather seal under slideout and onto the floor inside. Just added an extension cord.
Bugs are going to crawl into the same hole. I would make a custom cable to go from the outlet inside and install a waterproof cover on the little door behind the fridge. That way you can leave it closed but still use it.
Not sure why you haven't pulled this video. This is a violation of the NEC electrical code for RVs. 551.44 Power-Supply Assembly. Each recreational shall have only one of the main power-supply assemblies covered in 551.44(A) through (D).
This is the very thing I was looking for. I have a 30 amp RV. I can run 2 AC's and fridge on 30amps but nothing else. I wan't to take advantage of the 20 amp. I don't have that compartment behind my fridge and I don't believe I have a dedicated outlet inside for 20 amp. I wonder If I can have one installed?
I bought an adapter cord that plugs into te 20 amp outlet and also into tow 30 amp outlet then nerged into a 50 amp outlet that I plugged my RV into. Found the adapter on amazon.
Get a Mictuning 27.5 Powergrip 45amp adaptor on Amazon $28. Plugs into 30 amp and 15/20amp on pedistal. They are separate circuits. You can draw up to 50 amps using your 50 amp cord and not a light weight extension cord. If the circuit is 15 amps you should still get 45amp total. I’d still run one air conditioner but you have amperage to run microwave/ tv/ blow dryer with the air conditioner
@@jerrydixon I checked out that product on Amazon and the vendor like you states - "Technical Suggestion - Used in conjunction with properly sized circuit breakers. (Note: Do not work for GFI type outlets)"
Jerry. Could you take the 20 amp extension cord, put a male end on it so you can plug it into an existing outlet to power the entire circuit that the outlets are on? Then turn the breaker for that circuit off so you can isolate the power just on that circuit?
David Rodavich Would it work? Yes. Is it safe? No! You cannot have plus being energized. The exposed prongs would be unsafe. That is what a receptacle is for. He could buy a male socket and plug a receptacle into it, just like exists on rv's.
@@jerrydixon What you are suggesting is very, very misleading. You still cannot "safely" run two AC's. You have 30 amps everywhere plus a 20 amp outlet. There is a way to run two Ac's with 30 amps safely. That is with Micro Aire soft start capacitors.
@@jerrydixon Your are sort of suggesting/implying that this arrangement will create 50 amp service to your trailer. Whether you think you are saying that or not. Somebody might take this as gospel . For the electric challenged RVer this could be "misleading". Why don't you say that by doing what you are suggesting this will give you an an extra outlet that will not tax the 30 amp service ( or something like that.) Yeah, 30 plus 20 equals 50 but nowhere does 50 amps exist to the trailer power system to the AC's and all the other remaining outlets. I know that you are trying to be helpful but the 50 amp thing is "misleading". You have 30 here and 20 there. You have another video showing a "cheater" cord to create 50 amps. Here again, 50 amps is not created to any one location in the system. It is 30 to this leg and 20 to that leg. The same implication is made there. I am not trying to be confrontational but I do not want to see anyone messing up their electrical system.
@@garygresge4165 agree completely. Reality is he has changed nothing and only created a powered outlet that he installed by plugging that outlet into the pedestal.
Lol so your pull 20 amps more which is 2,400 watts more thru a smaller cord . Hummm and then you say electrical cord... ohhh boy, you need to rename this video to" WHAT NOT TO DO TO YOUR RV ] . If I saw u doing this I would park my TV some where else , so you can catch on fire by yourself.
Like Sgt Shults - I know nu-thing.....how can I tell what gauge wire is being used? I have a 220v 20amp breaker in box I would like to replace the 20amp with a 30 amp but I don't know if the wire is safe to use with 30amp. I can't see the wire at the box or at the outlet - so if I remove the outlet cover can I see something that will identify what gauge wire? Or do you have to remove the breaker box cover and get in there to find out ? (this is in my home , not an RV)
Warning! Not all pedestals are wired for this usage. Most are intended for 20A OR 30A use, or both! This stunt violates many electrical code rules and may invalidate your insurance.
This is just all wrong, the correct way and a much more simpler and safer way to do this is to get a 50 amp to 30 amp splitter. Plug 1 30 amp plug into the pedestal plug the other one into a 20 amp adapter and plug directly into the pedestal. That’s it, no extension cords, no open doors, and no popping holes in screens. Could not be simpler. This Video is just bad advice
@@jerrydixon you still do not understand what 50 amp is and how it is wired. It appears you have spent 2 years on these comments convinced you understand what 50 amp is. 50 amp service for an RV is two different legs of 50 amps. You are supplying 30 amps to one leg and 15 amps to your other leg. True 50 amp service is two 50 amp legs. Just because you are plugged into 20 amp outlet/beaker does not mean you are getting 20 when you use a 15 amp cord. Are you open to considering you misled because you did not understand 50 amp service?
@@jerrydixon essentially it is where you say 30 plus 20 equals 50. Not understanding that 50 amp service is 2x50=100 providing 12000 watts total and a 30 amp service provides a maximum of 3600 watts. There is over 3 times more wattage being provided by true 50 amp service. Here is an exact quote breaking down the wattage. Plugs on RVs with 30 amp service and 50 amp service differ in design. A 30 amp plug has three prongs - a 120 volt hot wire, a neutral wire and a ground wire - and is generally used on RVs with lower load requirements. A 50 amp plug has four prongs - two 120 volt hot wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire - that supply two separate 50 amp, 120 volt feeds. A 50 amp service RV provides a maximum 12,000 watts. Even with an adapter, your 30 amp service RV won’t receive more power than the 3,600 watts it can handle. Conversely, if you use an adapter for a 50 amp RV, you’ll be limited to 3,600 watts.
While this might work in your unit, I think it needs to be stressed that this is not a "50 Amp Service out of a 30 Amp power box". A true 50 Amp connection is actually 2 - 50A hot lines, a neutral, and a ground. Where a 30A connection is just a single 30A hot line, a neutral, and a ground. The 50A is capable of 12,000 Watts! Depending on how your rig is wired and what kind of power management system you have, plugging that 50A cord into the 30A dogbone is going to severely limit what you can run. Also, even though that outlet is on a 20A breaker, that GFCI and extension cord you are using is only good for 15A max. A 20A cord will have one of the blades turned sideways. That outlet you installed is good for 1800W MAX, not the 2400W you are suggesting. Personally, I wouldn't trust it with anything more than a combined 1500W. The last thing you want to be doing is putting out a fire behind the wall in your RV! Just my 2 penny's.
Just wire an outlet on the box where your wiring goes into the RV from your generator on the 20amp wiring that goes to your rear ac unit and leave the 30 amp circuit an then plug your 20amp extension cord to the outlet you just wired up an the your regular 30 amp extension cord to your shore power hook up like normally an there u have it 50 amps
You are not getting the same power as with your 50 amp connection - that connection is 50 amps at 240 volts, or 12,000 watts (you have two 120 volt lines, each providing 50 ams @ 120 volts). This work around gives you one 30 amp 120 volt line, and one 20 amp 120 volt line, or 6,000 watts). The various adapters work the same way.
Still a useful tip, but don’t plan on having the same amount of electrical capacity as when you’re connected to a true 50 amp, 240 volt supply.
Yeah Greg, that’s what he said in this video.
Very misleading as many looking for 30 to 50 amp conversions will think this will get it, and it does not.
A 50 amp RV actually has 100 amps available in 2 separate 50 amp lines. Each line feeds approximately half the RV.
This set up only adds another 20 amp line to the inside. So all RV appliances are still on the 30 amp line.
So while you have 59 amps total, it's still a 30 amp unit with a line of 39 amps. What's done here can be accomplished by running a heavy duty extension cord from the pedestal, through the weather seal under slideout and onto the floor inside. Just added an extension cord.
I didn't know you could get an extension cord through the weather seal under a slideout, Thanks.
Bugs are going to crawl into the same hole. I would make a custom cable to go from the outlet inside and install a waterproof cover on the little door behind the fridge. That way you can leave it closed but still use it.
Not sure why you haven't pulled this video. This is a violation of the NEC electrical code for RVs. 551.44 Power-Supply Assembly. Each recreational shall have only one of the main power-supply assemblies covered in 551.44(A) through (D).
This is the very thing I was looking for. I have a 30 amp RV. I can run 2 AC's and fridge on 30amps but nothing else. I wan't to take advantage of the 20 amp. I don't have that compartment behind my fridge and I don't believe I have a dedicated outlet inside for 20 amp. I wonder If I can have one installed?
I bought an adapter cord that plugs into te 20 amp outlet and also into tow 30 amp outlet then nerged into a 50 amp outlet that I plugged my RV into. Found the adapter on amazon.
But does it work?
50 Amp service is 220v or 2x 120v 50a. The 50a you have here is 1x 120v 50a, so about half the power.
They make adapters that plug into both at the pedestal
RV Vagabond Jerry yep have to replace plug then put it when you leave
@@samanthapowell5882 good idea!!!
neat idea, --- simple and usable! Thanks,
We have two a/cs...30amp on front and 20 amp plug on back one. Works great.🌷🚍
Get a Mictuning 27.5 Powergrip 45amp adaptor on Amazon $28. Plugs into 30 amp and 15/20amp on pedistal. They are separate circuits. You can draw up to 50 amps using your 50 amp cord and not a light weight extension cord. If the circuit is 15 amps you should still get 45amp total. I’d still run one air conditioner but you have amperage to run microwave/ tv/ blow dryer with the air conditioner
@@jerrydixon I checked out that product on Amazon and the vendor like you states - "Technical Suggestion - Used in conjunction with properly sized circuit breakers. (Note: Do not work for GFI type outlets)"
The 50 amp circuit for an rv can be split with a splitter plug, allows you to plug into 2 outlets that are on a separate breaker.
Excellent
Brilliant!
Jerry. Could you take the 20 amp extension cord, put a male end on it so you can plug it into an existing outlet to power the entire circuit that the outlets are on? Then turn the breaker for that circuit off so you can isolate the power just on that circuit?
Those are called suicide cords.
David Rodavich Would it work? Yes. Is it safe? No! You cannot have plus being energized. The exposed prongs would be unsafe. That is what a receptacle is for. He could buy a male socket and plug a receptacle into it, just like exists on rv's.
Also you can put an inverted plug right in the exterior wall , so you don''t have to leave that door open!
You're definitely not an electrician. Kind of hokie
Great idea!
I've never seen an RV water heater in a slide out
@@jerrydixon how does that work with plumbing?
So where are you getting 50 amps?
@@jerrydixon What you are suggesting is very, very misleading. You still cannot "safely" run two AC's. You have 30 amps everywhere plus a 20 amp outlet. There is a way to run two Ac's with 30 amps safely. That is with Micro Aire soft start capacitors.
@@jerrydixon Your are sort of suggesting/implying that this arrangement will create 50 amp service to your trailer. Whether you think you are saying that or not. Somebody might take this as gospel . For the electric challenged RVer this could be "misleading". Why don't you say that by doing what you are suggesting this will give you an an extra outlet that will not tax the 30 amp service ( or something like that.) Yeah, 30 plus 20 equals 50 but nowhere does 50 amps exist to the trailer power system to the AC's and all the other remaining outlets. I know that you are trying to be helpful but the 50 amp thing is "misleading". You have 30 here and 20 there. You have another video showing a "cheater" cord to create 50 amps. Here again, 50 amps is not created to any one location in the system. It is 30 to this leg and 20 to that leg. The same implication is made there. I am not trying to be confrontational but I do not want to see anyone messing up their electrical system.
@@garygresge4165 agree completely. Reality is he has changed nothing and only created a powered outlet that he installed by plugging that outlet into the pedestal.
Lol so your pull 20 amps more which is 2,400 watts more thru a smaller cord . Hummm and then you say electrical cord... ohhh boy, you need to rename this video to" WHAT NOT TO DO TO YOUR RV ] . If I saw u doing this I would park my TV some where else , so you can catch on fire by yourself.
6:48 6:48 6:48
Like Sgt Shults - I know nu-thing.....how can I tell what gauge wire is being used?
I have a 220v 20amp breaker in box
I would like to replace the 20amp with a 30 amp
but I don't know if the wire is safe to use with 30amp.
I can't see the wire at the box or at the outlet -
so if I remove the outlet cover can I see something that will identify what gauge wire?
Or do you have to remove the breaker box cover and get in there to find out ?
(this is in my home , not an RV)
Very well said-I run a RV park
Very well said-I run a RV park
😂 it wount work cause it has a reset button thingi in the middle " 😂😂 it works the way it was mean for 20 Amps so it can save lives.
👍🏼☮️
Completely unnecessary. They make adapters that will combine both the 20 and the 30.
Warning!
Not all pedestals are wired for this usage. Most are intended for 20A OR 30A use, or both!
This stunt violates many electrical code rules and may invalidate your insurance.
This is just all wrong, the correct way and a much more simpler and safer way to do this is to get a 50 amp to 30 amp splitter. Plug 1 30 amp plug into the pedestal plug the other one into a 20 amp adapter and plug directly into the pedestal. That’s it, no extension cords, no open doors, and no popping holes in screens. Could not be simpler. This Video is just bad advice
And the struggling park owner doesn't make much money and ends up going out of business because of covid 19 and people like you.
Pretty elementary. Nothing special here. And definitely not true 50 amp. Very misleading.
@@jerrydixon you still do not understand what 50 amp is and how it is wired. It appears you have spent 2 years on these comments convinced you understand what 50 amp is. 50 amp service for an RV is two different legs of 50 amps. You are supplying 30 amps to one leg and 15 amps to your other leg. True 50 amp service is two 50 amp legs. Just because you are plugged into 20 amp outlet/beaker does not mean you are getting 20 when you use a 15 amp cord. Are you open to considering you misled because you did not understand 50 amp service?
@@jerrydixon essentially it is where you say 30 plus 20 equals 50.
Not understanding that 50 amp service is 2x50=100 providing 12000 watts total and a 30 amp service provides a maximum of 3600 watts.
There is over 3 times more wattage being provided by true 50 amp service.
Here is an exact quote breaking down the wattage.
Plugs on RVs with 30 amp service and 50 amp service differ in design.
A 30 amp plug has three prongs - a 120 volt hot wire, a neutral wire and a ground wire - and is generally used on RVs with lower load requirements.
A 50 amp plug has four prongs - two 120 volt hot wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire - that supply two separate 50 amp, 120 volt feeds.
A 50 amp service RV provides a maximum 12,000 watts.
Even with an adapter, your 30 amp service RV won’t receive more power than the 3,600 watts it can handle.
Conversely, if you use an adapter for a 50 amp RV, you’ll be limited to 3,600 watts.