Common Mistakes New Watchmakers make Using a Timegrapher
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In Watch Repair, a timegrapher is a requirement, if you are seriously wanting to fix or service broken watches.
In this video, I continue the basic watch repair series, by giving you a head start of the fundamentals of using the timegrapher.
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I am a super noobie into watchmaking. I thought to pick it up as a hobby and am slowly acquiring the tools needed. Still have a ways to go but I recently stumbled across your channel and immediately gravitated towards your teaching style. Slow, methodical, technical, with diagrams and microscope closeups. If only 5% of the world knew what went into watchmaking perfection. People with money simply buy what's expensive and have zero appreciation for the little engineering marvels that they are. Cheers!
You got that right Tyler. Good to have you with us.
Make sure you make lubrication one of your main priorities! I talked to a watchmaker today who told me he only uses 1 grease, and 1 oil (9010). Don’t be that guy. Theres a lot of those guys.
Watch his first video. 7 tools for complete noobs. Jk. But really watch it
As per usual, this was an excellent video. The explanation of amplitude, beat error, etc. was all incredibly interesting! Thanks for the deep dive!
Yea man, thank you
Even as an amateur watchmaker and now half decent having worked on quite a number of vintage watches and pocket watches I have never failed to learn something really worthwhile or what I think is valuable information on every single one of your videos. Your short lessons are always relevant and of the highest standard - you are a gifted teacher.
Thanks for sharing! That's all I can hope for. Hell I learn new things talking to other watchmakers, all of which have different work experiences. Keeping an open mind and being able to continuously learn is what makes horology so interesting.
✨✨ Get Your Copy of my eBook, The Secrets for Adjusting Watch Rates ✨✨
➡➡PDF DOWNLOAD watchrepairtutorials.com/ebook/ ⬅⬅
➡➡Available on Kindle & Soft Cover @ geni.us/4x8C (Amazon)
✨✨Watchmaking Courses and Training ✨✨
➡➡ watchrepairtutorials.com/watchmaker-course/ ⬅⬅
Best one yet on timegraphers. And I've watched alot of em over the years. Life member of the ADD/Dyslexia club, I understood this one easily. Thanks.
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Love the lift angle tip.
You got it Supercruze
Thank you dear, very informative video. It is delightful to see a person who actually knows and shares freely knowledge. Please keep up the good work!
Thank you may friend
Well, I learned something today! I didn't know about the manufacturer's beat error tolerances, and I didn't know that anything under 1ms didn't affect the time keeping. Interesting stuff! Great informative video as always
Let me say that it obviously has to a lot to do with the grade of the movement. These are minimum allowances that would be allowed, but with the ease of adjusting BE in modern movements as opposed to adjusting BE at the collet on older movements, there really is no reason that it should not be perfect in the dial positions.
Thanks again Alex! Awesome tip on calculating lift angle - it's obvious now that you've explained it haha
What’s up my friend, thanks for watching
Excellent video Alex, you gave us 100s of tips! How long have you been working with watches?
Well I started at 18 and am getting ready to turn 62 so, a couple years I guess.😄
I really love this channel. We can get tones of information the factory way for free. This is the same way how the high-end watch manufacturer discusses things during training. Soooo Swiss...
Are you in school right now ?
I understand what lift angle is but not sure how I can figure out what it would be on a vintage ww2 Elgin A11 580 movement with 7 jewels. I wanted to ask if you had a clue on the lift angle?
It's very simple to figure out. Start with the movement with no power. Mark the balance wheel with a sharpie near the top somewhere by the center wheel and then put another dot 180° or half the balance wheel somewhere on the main plate where you you'll be able to see it. Now you have one sharpie mark on the top of the balance wheel and you have mark 180° from it on the plate or bridge.
Then you add a couple winds to the mainspring and you watch the dot on the balance wheel. The idea here is that you want the mark on the balance wheel to line up with the other mark that's 180° away from it. Once it starts getting close or hard to see, film it with your slomo on your phone so you can see when the dot on the balance wheel lines up with the reference dot on the main plate. Just add a few winds at a time, film it and add winds to the mainspring as needed. Once those two dots line up, the amplitude is 180°. Then just adjust the lift angle on your timegrapher until the amplitude is reading 180° and whatever the left angle that you are set at is the actual lift angle for that movement.
I showed it in a video but I don't know which one it's in.
Thank you very much I will try my best with this
@@jaymopar if you’re going to be working on vintage watches, this is a very good thing to know how to do it. Often times the angles on the Internet are not correct. If you start off with an incorrect lift angle, it makes it really hard to judge what your actual amplitude is.
Man... you just explain things so well... thank you for all these videos
Soooo much information in this one video that I have watched it at least 3 times all the way through to try to absorb it all... so many "ahhhh, ah ha!" moments as I do...
Much respect Mr Mom. Watch it, practice it. Watch it, practice it.
@@watchrepairtutorials I can't wait to try out your bonus tip to find out an accurate LA on my first watch I've bought and restored from ebay that is my daily driver right now. I was just so jazzed to get it back to life that I kind of ignored the... shall we say... not so impressive timegraph numbers... but I am definitely one of those newbs that just leaves it at the default LA setting on my 1000 because I hadn't a clue how to find those numbers on these old movements... Thanks again and I look forward to more of your videos. Cheers!
I’ve never worked in the times that these mtg 1000’s weren’t widely available. But I can only IMAGINE how easy it was back then. LMFAO! Nowadays EVERY dealer and their mother has one. I have a client that on modern watches, the amplitude must be 270+ dial up and 240+ crown down. And the watch must be within +5/d and -4/d in every position. Now that’s easy enough on a modern watch like a Rolex 3135. But a Rolex 2030? SIKE! They’re next to impossible to get within +5/-4! Amplitude is easy on that cal (2030). Now try getting 270+ amp on a Rolex 3035! That’s a challenge. Worst part about it? I’m only charging 250$ a service :(. But I am young (26 yo) do not have certifications (I worked under my father since I was 14) and not a lot of people know me. So I guess I just have to take it. I HATE being a young watchmaker. Dealers don’t trust you, and older watchmakers hate your guts and refuse to give you ANY info. Im doing my best out here though. And managing kind of well if you ask me. If you’re a young watchmaker, DONT GIVE UP. it took me years for someone to finally trust me with a Rolex. I did SO many juvenia and shitty ETA clones. But now I finally have my own company and my own office. Building up respect little by little! I love this career! I wouldn’t trade it for the world.
Thank you for a clear and careful presentation without trying to sell me on something. I truly appreciate it.
I have nothing to sell brother. Thanks for watching
Thanks! This is an amazingly clear and comprehensible explanation of principles I’ve been wondering about for a while.
You're very welcome and Thank You for your support.
Thanks
Thank you for supporting my channel. if you ever need anything, don't hesitate to reach out.
Great video! Happy I came across your channel. Keep it up!
I kinda get what you're saying, but I think I will have to watch this video a few times to grasp it. (UK)
don't feel bad most do I have to watch it a few times.
White out?
Why not black sharpie?
Less weight, no flaking, easily removed with alcohol dampened q tip.
It’s easier for me to see and any additional weight has no effect on determining lift angle. The white out also just flicks off.
Only just found your video's, really really good, great information very well explained. Working my way through them all, please keep them coming beginners like myself are benefiting enormously.
Hey Graham,
My channel is designed for new watchmakers and I am making videos kind of a specific order to build skills as needed.
Glad you like it.
Another awesome video. Thanks for making them, I am learning a ton!
Thanks KW
Do you Service or overhaul Ball Watches? I'm in need of my Roadmaster Challenger 18 Day/Date RR1102-C movement, and I been watching your content and I admire your knowledge and desire to be as perfect as possible.
I only take care of a small amount of work from some collectors that I’ve worked with for many years, but I do have a lot of watch making friends if you need a name
Hi ! Wow just came across your video, amazing ! Loved it ! I Subscribed , Thank you
Thanks for the sub!
The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) - ROLEX "What delta really means to your customer is this: It doesn’t matter if they wear their watch on the right wrist or the left, if they sleep in it or not, or if they lay it down the “wrong way” at night. It doesn’t matter, because the watch will only vary in timekeeping as much as the delta value (and often even less). So knowing the delta and having a low delta is a very desirably thing." / OMEGA "The same applies as above; a very low delta often keeps even the pickiest customer satisfied."
That’s a good way to look at it.
Another great video Alex! Thanks! On a different note, I just got a set of 9 screwdrivers, made in South Korea, brand isTimelab...I would gladly send the set to you if you would be so kind to do a review on them...
JD that’s awesome. I am actually planning a video on the difference between lower cost screwdrivers and Bergeon screwdrivers. What is the real difference.
If you think they are a contender I would love a set. If you go to the about me page my email is there.
Than you for this video! By far, it’s tge best video on the subject! All purposes we didn’t know about it, ask in one video!! One question I have I’d about the timegrapher. Being that it is such a crucial tool and it’s accuracy should be of major importance to the results off out adjustments! I see you use the Weishi 1900 model, how does that compare to the 1000? And I’d like to know if we need to be aware of fake machines? Amazon, eBay, etc have them at different price ranges and raised my fear level about the chance of fakes being a problem. Are all of them are made in China?
I’ve never owned the 1000 but it is my understanding that the screen resolution is not as sharp. I also believe the 1000 does not have the ability to input custom BPH.
Most of these machines are made by the same manufacture, and just re-branded with different names. As far as I know, they all work the same.
Hi there. Learning so much from your videos. Thank you 😊 When using a dot of white out on balance wheel to determine lift angle, would the balance wheel need to be cleaned afterwards? Wouldn't the added weight from the white out cause a positional error, i.e. a heavy spot?
Yes it needs to be cleaned off. Poise errors in a balance wheel do not affect dial or horizontal positions. They only affect vertical positions.
FYI, you can use any kind of marker as long as you can see it clearly.
Awesome, this video earned you a subscriber! Your explanation of the physics involved in using a time graph machine is extremely helpful. Many people may not even know why the microphone stand rotates! Thanks for your detailed explanation of how it all works.
Thank you Dennis. I’m glad to have you as part of the community.
I two am very new to this hobby, but am just continually in amazement of the mechanical watch movements of any kind. I have a Glycine airman that is very out of time , its only about 6 mo old and was good but now its not. I have a timegrapher , and have had good from it, however not so with the Glycine witch has a Sellita cw200-1 movement but the rate is +619 with an amp of153 full wind beat error of 9.2. I have not done anything to watch. But thought i could see if anyone had a clue? thx SteveO 63
First thing to check would be magnetism
What book or articles you reading from, I want that book.
😜
Your channel is amazing 😍
I just got two of my watches from service from a local watchmaker and both are around 180 degrees amplitude. I told that to the watchmaker and he said it was "fine". Both are running slow. One has VERY different rates between different positions from -50s to +5s, while the other seems pretty consistent with 5s delta ~ -5s to -10s.
Its disappointing... Not sure whether to take them back and keep pushing or accept a big waste of money and go elsewhere...
That’s totally unacceptable from a watchmaker. Sorry to hear that was your experience.
Of course the real measure is the accuracy on your wrist .
What's with that weird ass spacing of the letters in "MUL T I FUNCT I ON T I MEGRAPHER" on the Weishi lol the hell is going on there?😆✌
Thats a good question. 😊 Thats some good quality control
hi do fix watch oris
thank you for the tip to figure out lift angel! XD any tip on how to spot clean the whiteout off the balance wheel and main plate without damaging anything?
It literally just flicks right off. You can also use a Q-tip with a little bit of alcohol on it and wipe it off as well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, Sir!! 👌👍☺️✌️🙏🌻☀️
You are very welcome Pete.
It's gonna be tough translating all these terms for Swedish 🤣
Send me a list I will translate them for you
Another nugget of gold. I am now going to stop obsessing with beat error. Thank you sir!
Hey Stephen,
If you are on a modern movement, you should be able to get it to 0.0 but when you are working on a movement that needs to be adjusted at the collet, it’s ok to get it close and be done. Less chance of screwing up the hairspring.
Wouldn't the liquid paper throw the balance of the balance wheel off on that trick that you showed at the end?
Not for the purpose of establishing the 180-degree rotation of the balance wheel. When you can see a wheel turning 180 degrees it IS turning 180 degrees. Now if you didn't clean it off, it would cause an poise error when the watch is vertical.
Hey Alex I noticed that you show the st36 with a lift angle of 50°, I thought they were the same as the eta 6497, 44°?
Clones are not exact copies. As a matter of fact, there are differences between the ETA 6497-1 and the ETA 6497-2. Even though they look the same, they have two different beats, 18000 and 19800. The mainsprings are different and even though a lot of parts would be interchangeable, things like the train wheels, pallet fork and balance wheel are not.
It doesn't take much of a change in the escapement geometry to change the lift angle. The Lift angle of an escapement is determined by the start of TOTAL UNLOCKING on the receiving side and the end of the RUN TO THE BANKING on the let off side.
In the example I showed on the ST36, the rotation of the balance wheel is right at I80 degrees. It actual swings a little past the dot on the main plate. So if the timegrapher is showing 185 degrees, with the lift angle set to 50, then I'm pretty confident that its correct because its a lot easier to see the motion of the balance wheel than the RUN to the BANKING.
I don't have a 6497 to check right now.
Good stuff. I will listening to these again. Need to retain it sll.
Thanks for listening. Keep on keeping on Chip
Thank you - very helpful for noobies as me ❤😊
You are so welcome. Good luck to you.
An easier way to check lift angle is use a black dot from a dry erase pen and slowly wind the watch till you can see a solid black dot at the 180° position. This is because the dot it lining up with it’s self on each cycle at the 180° position. The cycle is so fast that once you hit the 180° the dot stands out. Then change your lift angle on your time grapher till it reads 180° amplitude.
Use a black dot where, though? On the plate? Or the balance wheel?
@@libindaniel2000on the balance wheel
@@libindaniel2000 You've probably figured it out but anyone who hasn't, the wheel. The plate isn't moving. The wheel is what's lining up with itself.
Thanks a lot, man! So many nuggets to mine here.
You are very welcome Chris. Yes, there is a lot to unpack.
Help please!
Bought used tudor black bay 58 m79030n
caliber MT5402
Time graph
Test period 4s
Lift Angle 49 degrees
Wind 30 times let it run for 1 hour
Then I tested it on timegrapher amplitude was under 250 so I wind it 20 more times then my readings were
Dial up
+1s/d
Amplitude 262°
Beat error 0. 3ms
Parameters 28800
Vertical crown left
-11s/d
amplitude 189°
bet error 0.3ms
Parameters 28800
Vertical crown right
-7s/d
Amplitude 197°
Beat error 0. Oms
Parameters 28800
Dial face down
-1s/d
Amplitude 255°
Beat error 0.2ms
Parameters 28800
Does the watch need to be repaired?
Should I return it?
Thank you
It's used right? It just looks like it needs servicing..
@@watchrepairtutorials
Thank you for replying!
My concern is the drop in amplitude
262 To 189. Yes is used bought on eBay card says is 1 year and half old
Will have to return it because I don’t think Tudor warranty covers servicing
Just wanted to say that your videos, and your general approach to teaching, are absolute spectacular. The volume of information is astounding, but also, your ability to organise that information into a logical ordering is just fantastic.
I always feel the urge to reach for a notebook in a way that I did infront of a good university lecturer.
It's a real skill to fuse practical and academic info, and entertain, and you do all 3 very well jndeed🎉
Thank you for the kind words. It does take a long time to put some of the content together. I am here to share what I know in a way that's beneficial for Home Watchmakers, not necessarily professionals.
@@watchrepairtutorials the vintage camera/lens repair world would do well to look at the online amateur watch repair world. There is only one channel I've encountered with good step-by-step guides for specific problems ("Fix Old Cameras" here on TT), otherwise they seem intent on taking valuable knowledge to the grave.
Thanks for the great tips, Alex.
My pleasure!
I can’t find the lift angle for Bulova 10BPAC or other Bulova 23 movements. What should I use?
Thanks, Scott
Watch the bonus tip at the end. You’ll never have to wonder again
@@watchrepairtutorials Yes, thank you very much!
If the lift angle is too low can I swap the camshaft?
Oh sorry, got my hobbies crossed :D
Thank you for sharing your life long learning with new generations of enthusiasts. I have a question regarding my Rolex two tone Submariner; I purchased the watch new from a Rolex dealer in the mid 80’s. The watch is in excellent condition and has never been serviced or opened. I have not worn the watch in many years and it’s not running. Do I send it to Rolex, knowing they will replace original parts as they deem necessary, how can I have it serviced while keeping it as intact to its original parts as possible? Thank you, Will
You can request that certain parts are not changed although some things like the mainspring are not going to be an option with them and you will want that changed out anyway.
Other than that you can find a Rolex certified independent watchmaker who will be much easier to communicate you wishes to.
I would contact the AWCI for a list of watchmakers close to you and then make some phone calls.
@@watchrepairtutorials thank you - very much enjoy you channel
Absolutely fascinating.
Thank you my friend.
I am not a watchmaker... I just have interest in mechanical watch. Should I buy a timegrapher?
It depends on what your interests are. I don’t see a reason necessarily to buy a timegrapher unless you have a large watch collection and you just want to see the health of your watches. That could really be done just by wearing it and see how well it keeps time.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thank you for the feed back. I just thought the phone app was not accurate enough.
I remember the day I saw the 'delta' was more than 1 minute, I never knew the exact reason. My question is solved by this video, I was complacent on lubricating end stones (I was afraid of losing it😂).
That 8 o'clock regulating position tip is just awesome.
It’s where we all start from. It’s shocking when you first see how small and like that in stone it is.
Thank for sharing this info. As a (absolute) beginner is was wondering what my new bought Weishi 1000 could tell me about my mechanical watch and what's behind those readings.
Well, first and foremost, you need to look up to see what the lift angle is and adjust that for your watch movement. The correct lift angle in the timegrapher will tell you what the amplitude is. The amplitude is basically how far or the angle that the balance will isolates during two vibrations. This is an indication of the health of your watch movement amplitude of 270° in the horizontal position is kind of the benchmark for a movement that’s running well.
The rate is just what it sounds like it is the time gain or lost over a 24 hour period when the watches in that position. The six main positions are dial up and dial down, and then the vertical positions are crown up crown down crown left and crown right. You will notice the amplitude drops 30 to 40° when you move from the horizontal position to the vertical positions.
Beat error is the measurement of the difference of each vibration during one oscillation of the balance wheel. Your time Grapher is measuring how long one vibration is when the balance wheel spins to the left, and it’s comparing it to the vibration when it spins to the right, and that difference is the beat error.
Beat error is really only important when it’s over 1.0 ms as that will affect the timing but anything under that does not affect timing. What it does affect is how easily a movement will start up once power is put into the main spring barrel.
And that my friend is a general overview of what the timegrapher will tell you
@@watchrepairtutorials Thank you!
Great video Alex. I hiervan more and more vind faults in the movement by using my Timegrapher. Before using your bonus tip, I search the internet to find a lift angle list of movements.
an excellent video,I'm am to new to understanding everything.
Great stuff. I learned this the hard way.
Thank you, my friend. Come back and see us again.
Hello,
I recently purchased a timegrapher, Weisher 1900, and put my Seiko SPB121 with the 6R35A movement on it and it's running a bit slow however my main concern is the variation between the different positions:
Date: Position Rate (S/D) Amplitude Beat Error (Ms)
6/30/2024 Dail up -15 193 0.2
Dial down -3 209 0.5
Crown at 12H -62 163 0.1
Crown at 9H -12 183 0.7
Crown at 6H -12 174 0.7
Crown at 3H -44 181 0.1
There's almost a 60 second difference between some positions. Wondering what your diagnoses is for that or if that's what you get with a mid grade movement, is there a problem with the balance wheel or does the movement simply need to be taken apart, cleaned, lubricated and put back together? I fully wound the watch and let it sit for a couple of hours before I pulled these results. I bought the watch new about 4 years ago and it's never been serviced. I'm not expecting to have 0 positional variance however expecting numbers better than this. Thank you!
Well first of all thank you for providing the information I need. Most people just send me one position. You didn't exactly right.
The amplitude is very poor in all positions.
Your vertical amplitude is such that any poising error on the balance wheel is heightened. 160-180 is the worst possible amplitude for vertical positions.
The regulator pins appear to be properly set so I don't think that's an issue.
Your delta rate is 59. Delta rates are THE indicator for trouble in the movement.
Movements coming out of the factory lubricated which is very inconsistent as far as its accuracy.
I think this is all pointing to the movement needed to be fully serviced.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for the feedback and quick response, I really appreciate it and I'll get the watch serviced one way or another!
Very informative 👏
Glad you liked it
What about us left handers? 😀
We don’t discriminate. I welcome left handers
Hi! I'm working on a Seiko 6139A. After the service, the timegrapher shows me a big difference between de back position, and the vertical position, about 30 seconds. Could you help me know where to start?
I assume it could be play in some part, but I can't imagine which one.
Thank you!
What is the amplitude and rate for the dial up and dial down positions?
@@watchrepairtutorials dial up, 172° and 0.2ms. Dial down 190° and 0.1ms. Maybe is there a difference with the balance wheel lubrication?
@@hansolo32 perfect. Start there and clean and relubricate the end stones. Clean the balance pivots as well
Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.
Hi Alex, I often come back to your video's for reference, I have a simple question if you could clear up for me please. Are the dots on the timegrapher the palate fork hitting the banking pins or the palate stones on the escape wheel? Hope you can enlighten me "to become a better watchmaker " 😉
It’s not quite that simple. These dots are called indications and indications are caused by the tick sounds of the escapement. All 3 of them together because they happen about 100th of a second from EACH other.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks, for your response. Impulse jewels/banking pin/escape wheel hitting stone. Am I now a better watchmaker? Thanks again.
Loads of information. Brilliant. Thankyou.
Fascinating ❤
Horology? It certainly is.🔥
Very educational.
But the explanation of the beat error is not 100% correct.
Regardless of the beat error the clockwise as well as the anti clockwise swing take more or less the same time. The beat error measures the time difference in milliseconds when the contact of the impulse pin happens respectably for both swing directions. Even at a high beat error the time for both clockwise and anticlock swing will be almost perfect equal.
Thank you but I’m not sure what you disagreeing with.
What I said in the video is that, “Beat error is the difference in time that it takes for the balance wheel to rotate in one direction compared to the time it takes for the balance wheel to rotate and the other direction”.
Beat error, by definition, means there is an imbalance in timing between the two vibrations.
You are saying that even when there is high beat error that they are practically the same, but that is not true.
Yes, it is a slight difference when the beat error is low, but as the beat error increases, the disruption to the vibration rate is larger, enough to affect the timing of the movement.
@@watchrepairtutorials I very much appreciate you expertise work and video teach.
What I wanted to point out is that the clockwise swing of e.g. +270° takes almost the exact same time as the counterclockwise -270° swing. Regardless of the beat error.
If you have a beat error of e.g. 2ms that translates roughly into 10° (depending on beat rate, amplitude, etc.).
Such an error would roughly cause the fork to be hit (ignoring the liftangel or assuming it as zero) at 270/2-10/2 = 130° at one of the swings and 270/2+10/2 = 140°.
As such it is not the difference in time that it takes for the balance wheel to fully rotate in one direction compared to the fully reverse direction. This times imho are almost indistinguishable equal.
@@hipphipphurra77 I agree, its not much ofa difference, bit there is. This is why timing machine look at the timing of each vibration and average them and spit out a number.
I am guessing your background is either in engineering, math or physics. Is this accurate. If so I have a question for you which I cannot find an answer.
@@watchrepairtutorials ;)
Thanks Alex. You show things not many do in other watchmaking videos. Say I service the watch and put it on the timegrapher. My biggest problem is they run fast. Every dang time running super-fast. Like 10 minutes per day, at least, fast. Something besides magnetism. Hairspring, poising, whatever it takes to adjust the watch across positions. How to poise a balance, baby-step by baby-step, and how to get the watch in acceptable tolerances in different positions. Does your Journeyman course show how to do all this stuff?. If so, then that is what I need. The next step in this aggravating "hobby" I have a love-hate relationship with.
Yes, I will be including regulation as well as dynamic poising in the course. It also includes how to adjust the escapement and I will be adding setting and adjusting pallet stones.
Your explanation cleared up the mystery of how a timegrapher measures amplitude. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Terry.
Hi Alex. This video is great. Love your style. But...I wonder when you get a moment if you wouldn't also tell us a bit more about those two lines on the grapher. I have done some experimenting with this device. Playing drums on the countertop from which it sits. Also, tapped a wood peg on the microphone. Played load music near it. It would have been interesting to see what it picks up at a Monster Truck Rally! But, some watches I record seem to show those lines are all but one line. So close that they're on top of one another. What does that mean? Other times the grapher just shows dots all over the place. Looks like snow. Figured out if those lines are going downhill the movement is slower then zero. If lines are going uphill it's running fast. Straight is zero. Also, on the 1900 those lines are two different colors. Which one is what? Perhaps put a dirty watch on the microphone. Then place an overhauled one (or brand new) on the microphone. There seems to be no manual that really gets into the 1000/1900 as much as you have in this video. Thank you so much.
I plan on doing more troubleshooting videos with explanations of patterns and what they mean. The answer to your question is quite long and there is a lot of context and nuances that need to be understood to interpret the lines correctly.
Basicly, each line represents one half- cycle or one swing in one direction. A complete oscillation consists of two swings or half cycles. The timegrapher detects the movement of the balance wheel by sensing the vibrations generated by the watch's escapement.
The timegrapher precisely measures the duration of each oscillation cycle, usually in milliseconds and establishes a reference time based on a known and consistent oscillation rate. This reference time represents the ideal duration for each oscillation cycle.
Then the timegrapher compares the measured duration of each oscillation cycle to the reference time. The difference between the measured duration and the reference time is the beat error. When those lines are together the beat error is 0.0ms and as the beat error increases the lines separate.
“Just what I needed “ -The Cars
Thank you
Why have I not spotted your channel yet 😣
Just purchased a timegrapher to check my watches, so this video is invaluable.
Great presentation and info.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
I’ve subscribed now so I don’t miss any more of your videos.
All the best
Fantastic I hope to see you here in the comment section again. Let me know if there’s anything I can do to help you, Alex.
I love your style and learning from you, please keep it going! I’m a hobbyist watchmaker learning it all on UA-cam
That’s awesome man. UA-cam is great but there’s just so much information on watchmaking that’s not out there. It will never be on the internet. If you ever find yourself needing to fill in the blanks, you should consider taking my watchmaking course which will be the closest thing to watch making school as you can find.-Alex
Thank you so much for imparting your experience in watchmaking on a hobbyist like myself. Your ability to make things I never even considered, seem so obvious and easy to understand is great. You were born to teach! I've just discovered your channel, and i'm eating this up. Great stuff!
My pleasure!
Advanced clarity!
"Thank you, I try to be as crystal clear.
Thank you very, very much. Excellent explanations in such a clear way. So calm and cool, simply wonderful!
You're very welcome Fred.
As a 61yr lifelong watch lover. you have a new subscriber. I am finally going to learn how to repair and tune my large selection of watches I haven't used for years. Thank you so much for sharing your valuable knowledge that will help me with going into the other side of my mechanical watch love.
Welcome aboard!
These are some of the best watchmaking videos on UA-cam. And I've watched a LOT of them. The information is so well-delivered and clear that I am learning 100X more than I've learned watching other channels. Thank you!
Wow Mike that’s really nice to hear. That’s what I am going for.
This is all very interesting. I am certain that I will be returning to this video many times as I progress through my watchmaking journey. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, it is greatly appreciated! 👍
Great to have you!
Very good explanations, thanx!
Thanks Ernest. I hope it helps you in some way.
@@watchrepairtutorials yeah. I am no watch maker in any sense, and at this point I would not dare to disassemble the movement. I have this old watch from my dad, that passed away back in 1993. The watch is from the 70's I think. It is a known brand in ex-Yugoslavia, but otherwise I don't think so... Omikron. It has a Unitas 6325 movement with 21 jewels (Swiss made). The watch was never ever serviced to my knowledge. The front plate was in a very bad condition with some yellow stains, that I took it apart a take off the coating from the plate and used some black spray and then cleaned the digits. I polished the plexiglass. So then I was looking for some knowledge about how does it work in the first place. Very interesting invention, once you understand the basics. And now I was trying to make the watch run as true as possible. I found this phone App called Watch Accuracy Meter. It seems it works just fine. I was able to reduce the beat error to the minimum of about +0.2 BUT I see big differences in the speed between: 1) Half winded vs. Full winded (-731 vs. +71 s/day), and 2) Orientation, Face Up vs. Face Down (+71 vs. +2 s/day). I did adjusted it Face Down and fully winded. So that is consistent and watch would be true in that position... BUT, probably because the watch is never serviced in it's 50 years of life it will not be possible to adjust it "right" for all positions....?? Sorry for the long story, 🙂you probably have better things to do then to read this layman details. Haha. Cheers I will watch more of your vides and who knows...
I have a mount royal watch that works when flat but stops when vertical. I have no watchmaker nearby. I hope you can help
I am retired John.
@@watchrepairtutorials I meant give me a clue to my problem. Thanks
@@johnwilliams7439 Oh Man, tons of stuff. First things first, it has to be serviced. That could be the overall problem. After that, there's about 2 dozen things it could be.
Excellent educational video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That was freaking awesome!!!!
Wonderful video, as always. Just one question - does adding the drop of whiteout change the poise this skewing the result? How sensitive are the wheels and springs to the extra weight?
Good question. Not for the purpose of determining lift angle. Poise error's do not effect a balance wheel in the horizontal positions, only vertical positions. Of course after the lift angle is determined, you would clean off the white out or marker, whatever you use.
Thanks, been told so much about the time grapher, when all thats required was detail and myths explained. cheers.
Thanks again Billy G
great tip. TY
Glad it was helpful!
Hola
Hola
I am so glad I came across your videos. You explain things in a very understandable way. I used your affiliate links to reorder some cleaning supplies as a thank you.
Well Mr HVAC we appreciate you brother. Let me know if you need anything.
Alex
Very, very, good video how can I get to number one and watch the whole series 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Peter,
Glad you find some value in it.
Here is a link to the playlist.
ua-cam.com/play/PLvMdYdz6a-tFD_GIFjiV4zj48nSfFOOky.html
Добрый день, Вы делитесь такими тонкостями, о которых многие умалчивают! Благодарю Вас!
Спасибо, мой друг. Я стараюсь освещать темы, которые не интересуют другие каналы, потому что они не набирают много просмотров. Я ценю тебя.
We’ll done, we’ll explained, clear and patient. I like it. Good job, thank you.
Thank you my friend. I hope it can help in some small way.
Props
Thank you my friend
I love your teaching style it’s so clear and makes perfect sense, thank you
You are so welcome!
Thank you for the video, your video is utmost helpful🍻🍻
No problem Hugo. 👌
Thank-you.
You’re very welcome Bruno
In that bonus tip for determining the lift angle, doesn't the white out affect the balance wheel's poise or is it negligible?
That’s a great question. It would absolutely create a poise error, but horizontal positions are not affected by poise errors only vertical positions.
Of course you would need to clean it off after the lift angle is determined. The white out comes right off.
Nice to see Jeff Bridges also enjoys watch repair.
The Dude abides. 😊
Sir, how to customize a return to the amplitude of the watches is there to be dismantled or just set up
Something is wrong with the translation. What is the problem?
Excuse me, Sir, I'd like to ask how to restore an amplitude of less than 200°
@@eemdaray7807 watch the newest videos I’m doing right now. The Hamilton 917 project. That’s exactly what’s it’s about
Wow now I know what separates a good regulation from a great one. You’re truly a pro. 👍
Thanks Frank.
When i am adjusting a Vintage watch, should i adjust the rate more to + or minus - seconds. I mean when the watch runs and the oils get older the watch will run slower again.
Should i adjust the watch now to + seconds?
Cause i think to bring a vintage watch to 0 is almost Impossible.
Great question. First let me say that when amplitude is lost by dried oils and dirt, watches typically run fast .if it’s slow there is usually something else going on.
How you regulate a watch really depends on the watch it self.
If you have a movement that maintains minimum amplitude, around 200 degrees, after running from a full wind I typically regulate the watch to the fast side because no one wants to be late.
If a watch can’t maintain minimum amplitude and drops to say 170-180, I typically regulate to the - .
That’s because when the amplitude gets to those lower numbers the rate starts to increase, so whatever time was lost during the day will be regained as the watch speeds up.
Make sense?
@@watchrepairtutorials yes that makes sense.
I work, most at the time, on realy old pocket watches. They have those realy big ballances. And especialy on the american pocket watches they are crazy big.😅 And yes no one wants to be late.
I don't know if you know that but how did they regulate Pocket watches in the 1800? Cause i am always impressed how they could make so acurate timepices.
@@seangerst6561 with vintage pocketwatches you are always fighting wear, especially on movements under 17 jewels. Railroad grade watch’s on the other hand can still be as accurate as they were used back in the day.
In the early 1900’s watch manufacturers used a electric Master clock which sent a signal to slave clocks throughout the factory. Once the watch was assembled, the watch would go to the finish room were is was adjusted and regulated. This process required the movement to be timed for 24 hrs in each position the the finisher would make an adjust and repeat the process over and over until the watch was within specifications. The length of time this took depended on the how many positions the watch was adjusted to. For a railroad grade, it was about 2 months.
Before electric master clocks, the would have used master pendulum clock which would have been the most accurate at the time and they would go through a similar process depending on the quality of the movement.
@@watchrepairtutorials crazy... At first thanks for the awnsers.
I aprichiate your videos and love to learn new stuff. Always when i see a new video from you i learn new stuff like polishing the inside of the barrel holes, to that point i wasn't even thinking about that, and after i have done that the amplitude was way better.
Yes we always fight the wear, i recently finished working on an old ladys pocket watch an it just had 6 jewles, it was realy hard but with your tips and tricks i finished it and it was running (perfect) for a watch from that era.
Thanks👍🏼😊😊
You da man! Love these videos thanks!
Hey Rick,
How are you?
Busy as a one legged man in an ass kicking contest?
@@watchrepairtutorials ya I'm hanging in there, thanks! How about you?
@@rickhufnagel6984 feeling good and staying busy