Dave, I really enjoy seeing all the projects and layouts you do. Really impressed with the Thunder Mesa, your modeling reminds me of Furlows back in the day. (hope you take that as a compliment). Keep up the great work!!
I was about to install a pair of similar PECO HOn30 turnouts on a micro layout 009 layout (With a bit of standard gauge for scale) and that ground throw setup is wonderful, I'll have to try your method with the piano wire! Love seeing the On18 section again, a lot of creativity on display with everything being scratchbuilt. The mineral spirit you used for getting the tops of the rails cleaned of paint is the same fuel that some Mamod toy steam engines use - In case you wanted to make the tin empty faster!
Good question! Because an insulated rail joiner would have made a weaker joint at that particular spot. The sharp curves put a lot of stress on rail joints so I determined it would be better to get everything aligned and then cut the rail. The intact flextrack webbing below helps hold things in alignment.
Dave, thanks for reminding me about my butaine soldering iron. I'll have to go dig it out of my gardening tools. BTW, have you ever modeled a plank or log road? The NG&SL Gazette had an article about these once common roads.
Hmmm.. at 12:18, why not just use an insulating rail joiner instead of soldering the brass rail joiner? Then you wouldn't have had to add a special cut & make up your own epoxy/styrene insulator? I am new at this track modeling stuff, but it seems it would have done the same things easier..Am I missing something?
Easier, but less effective at keeping the rails in gauge. I soldered and then cut the rail for the same reason I didn't just use an insulated rail joiner. Coming off of that sharp of a curve makes for a very weak joint. Far better to get everything properly aligned and then cut the gap, leaving the flex track webbing below to help keep things in gauge. Besides, I wanted to demonstrate the gap and fill with epoxy technique.
It's cool to see this being developed again. It's amazing what a little dirt and fake plants can do to change the believability.
Making your own piece of 11” radius On18 sectional track? Genius!
Thank you. Yet another terrific tutorial demonstrating how to solve problems we all experience on our layouts.
I loved watching the operation from start to finish, thanks, Dave.
Good to be able to do some construction in the midst of all that demolition of the main layout. Great work as always.
Very nice instructional, Dave, thanks.
Great video Dave! Love the red dirt ballast.
I love watching you create 😊
Every tiny detail is perfected
What a beautiful build 😊😊😊
Dave, I really enjoy seeing all the projects and layouts you do. Really impressed with the Thunder Mesa, your modeling reminds me of Furlows back in the day. (hope you take that as a compliment). Keep up the great work!!
Looking Good, Dave
Butane iron winning, hands down the best for track-work.
Thanks Dave
Nice way to show how to repair a problem and create a neat mini scene.
Can't wait for the next episodes in expanding your railroads..
Interesting information about this track laying and switch installation. And terrain construction.
Awesome job, your videos inspire me to get moving on my stuff !!!
Great vidio, love the littel town.Thanks for the morning coffee...
Looks good Dave, and good to see the Bandit Canyon moving forward again
Just what I needed to motivate me to finish up my own track work this weekend. Thanks!
Thanks for this Dave. Enjoying the journey.
i have an idea for a locomotive for the lay out. an armor train armored with scrap and stuff laying around.
I was about to install a pair of similar PECO HOn30 turnouts on a micro layout 009 layout (With a bit of standard gauge for scale) and that ground throw setup is wonderful, I'll have to try your method with the piano wire!
Love seeing the On18 section again, a lot of creativity on display with everything being scratchbuilt.
The mineral spirit you used for getting the tops of the rails cleaned of paint is the same fuel that some Mamod toy steam engines use - In case you wanted to make the tin empty faster!
Looking great
Just wondered why you didn't use an insulated rail joiner where the point joined to the outgoing track? Any great videos as ever 👍🏻
Good question! Because an insulated rail joiner would have made a weaker joint at that particular spot. The sharp curves put a lot of stress on rail joints so I determined it would be better to get everything aligned and then cut the rail. The intact flextrack webbing below helps hold things in alignment.
@@ThunderMesaStudio fair point well made 👍🏻
Dave, thanks for reminding me about my butaine soldering iron. I'll have to go dig it out of my gardening tools. BTW, have you ever modeled a plank or log road? The NG&SL Gazette had an article about these once common roads.
I haven't - but it would make for a cool model!
Can you spray diluted white glue instead? It seems like a lot. Never used it by the way, just wondering.
You can, but it is harder to control where it goes.
Hmmm.. at 12:18, why not just use an insulating rail joiner instead of soldering the brass rail joiner? Then you wouldn't have had to add a special cut & make up your own epoxy/styrene insulator? I am new at this track modeling stuff, but it seems it would have done the same things easier..Am I missing something?
It wouldn't have been as strong of a joint.
Great video, what is that theme song?
It would have been easier to just not solder the track joint on the one side.
Easier, but less effective at keeping the rails in gauge. I soldered and then cut the rail for the same reason I didn't just use an insulated rail joiner. Coming off of that sharp of a curve makes for a very weak joint. Far better to get everything properly aligned and then cut the gap, leaving the flex track webbing below to help keep things in gauge. Besides, I wanted to demonstrate the gap and fill with epoxy technique.
Promo sm 🤤