Bladefixers - are these the Strongest Plasterboard Fixings?
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- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
- In today's video I will be reviewing Bladefixers - an innovative plasterboard fixing that recently hit the market.
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This is the first official review of the Bladefixer. I was recently messaged on Facebook by the inventor asking if I'd like to try it out.
The Bladefixer is the only multi-screw fixing - meaning you can fix more than one screw into it for a secure fixing. It fits all plasterboard types.
The really clever thing about it is that you don't need a drill bit to install it. You simply need a knife to make the initial cut, and then you can use the fixing itself to push a slot through the plasterboard. You then bend the fixing flat against the wall, and the process of fixing screws into it pulls the rest of the fixing tight against the inside face of the wall.
It's suitable for fixing radiators, cupboards, shelves, TV brackets, large mirrors, pictures etc.
For more videos on how to use Bladefixers, check out their Twitter page / bladefixers
TODAY'S TOOL KIT *
- Bladefixers 20 x 130mm 20 pack £9.99/ $13.99 goo.gl/uZJ1Kh
- Stanley knife £5.99/ $8.39 goo.gl/CuFCsV
- Pencil
*$ prices are direct conversions from the £ equivalent, rather than indicative costs of what the product might cost in US hardware stores.
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that's incredibly clever! kudos to the designer... also, great thinking on your part to invert them to add cantilever strength, Charlie! thanks for bringing this to us
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First class review, warts and all. I like the idea of fitting upside down. For the price it is a must have in the toolbox.
Good review, good idea about reversing the fixing upside down.
Turning the thing upside down. clever :)
Charlie, that was a great review.
Well explained and informative.
Thank you and have a great day. 👍
You're welcome Peter. Many thanks for taking the time to comment!
Looking forward to this one Charlie - I'm intrigued! 😀👍 On my watch list for tomorrow! Cya!
Cheers Andy! BTW LOVED your video on the MDF dolly! Absolutely inspired, and something I plan to replicate, albeit mine will have to be an off road version with big wheels as it needs to go down the badly pot holed garden path :)
An excellent and balanced expose of the pros and cons. None of your videos are silly or crap so its wrong to confuse the testing and presentation with the item being tested as some seem to have done, not that I think these are rubbish devices - quite the opposite in fact.
When it comes to selecting wall anchors, the choice depends very much on the size of the load to be applied. For light or medium loads its undeniable that there are simpler, cheaper and faster solutions, but for very heavy loads its hard to see how anything could beat these Bladefixers. Two well spaced screws are surely better than one as the localised load on the plasterboard around each is then halved which can only be a good thing. In addition, the large area of metal strip pulled tight against the plasterboard spreads the load over a much larger area of the board which helps even more.
Difficult applications aside such as lack of a gap behind the plasterboard, its hard to see how the Bladefixers could be beaten for security and peace of mind with heavy loads. And to crib about a cost of 50p each for demanding applications seems like nit-picking. Its horses for courses so lower cost simpler solutions can still be used where the ultimate performance is not required.
Keep up your excellent and informative reviews, Charlie.
Just had this pop up on another clip I was watching & thought it was worth a look. Interesting product & not something I have seen yet as a multi trader, but the review was interesting & informative. Not quite sure I would use it at this stage over tried & tested fixings over the years, but looking forward to seeing this develop further. Subscribed.
Good demonstration Thanks Charlie
That's a clever idea. I think the key when fixing to plasterboard is using the right fixing for the job, so many to choose from and each has their own strengths and weaknesses.
Absolutely. We are the only Multi Screw Fixing available on the Market today
I agree with you 100% there!
I liked the idea of fixing upsidedown and snapping off the top, very clever way of getting a good backing to fix to and anything you fix is then tight to the wall, this could even be made wider for greater load strength, very clever idea, and quick to use with a multitool, if the plate had an array of small pre-drilled holes for easier screw location
Thanks Charlie - a really useful intro to this product. The plethora of (and regular introduction of the "latest, new and best") plasterboard fixings highlights that this remains a problem for the DIYer. The Bladefixer is a neat idea and could be a success if users are prepared to learn the slightly fussy installation instructions. I particularly liked your "use it upside down" tip for the pelmet batten at the end.
Did you have 100% success in the screws engaging with the plate inside the cavity? It's critical of course, but not clear how careful one has to be to achieve this.
What an honest and transparent Review. Thanks so much Charlie. We promise to send you another pack!! Great tips and advice. We agree with a lot of the improvements you suggested even installing upside down for Maximum Strength. Like you say this is a brand new product on the market and our goal is to educate the masses. We have to continue to share the techniques required for a simple installation. We hope everyone will see a unique use case and going forward encourage everyone to keep a pack in their tool box.
Bladefixers not really... why the edits around 6:46 where the 2nd screw should have been filmed hitting the bracket... which I’m guessing it didn’t and was redirected in the missing parts and having the benefit of sneaking a look behind. I’m unsubscribing. Uncalled for. Thx but no thx.
I can see why you would draw this conclusion but the section at 6.46 was edited out because I try to cut sections that I think are irrelevant - specifically here I didn't think people would want to sit and wait whilst I hand turned a screw all the way into the fixing. For the record it didn't miss, but you're right I did have the benefit of looking behind. You're welcome to unsubscribe but the point of these videos is to show people who are receptive - new products they may not otherwise have known about - and to give an impartial review as possible of them.
Charlie DIYte very odd not to show the key stage. In addition, with all this metal, you’ll need to be careful of wiring. Woops!
I'm inclined to agree with you - a bit heavy handed on the editing! There's loads of metal in the wall these days with metal studs that you increasingly see in new builds and even the old lath and plaster walls have a fair amount - with all the nails. If I'm looking for wood studs in a lath and plaster wall I often get the metal detector out!
This also assumes there is a void behind the plasterboard. Most installs these days there isn't, there's usually foam, celotex type insulation and I'm pretty sure this product won't work in that situation.
I also agree with point about lining up exactly with the slot in the back part of the fixer, 50/50 chance of hitting it at best!
Good video Charlie, these fixings have great potential, version 2 or 3 will probably be a go to solution. Even at this stage I would use them for heavier loads, but maybe pre-enlarge the other holes on it to give the screw chance to engage better. Great idea needs improvement and needed your video to show them that they didn't test it enough. Someone there really phoned it in on this one. Shouldn't have been in production with flaws like that.
I have used these fixings in a complete hollow wall to hang wall cupboards.
They have worked but I found them fiddly to install. I agree the item needs to be slightly thicker to provide that little more durability however it probably has it’s maximum thickness due to installation process. I found that the screw needed to have a deeper ridge to ensure a strong bite into the blade.
I have used zip spring toggles (slightly different to normal spring toggles) for a similar install of wall cupboards and favoured them as the grip felt more secure. Available at screwfix (uk sizing) or other internet businesses.
I had problems with a type of fastening that twisted behind board but surely the benefit of these is that the ‘ hinge’ part is a wide load carrying feature, so not just relying on screws clamping.
Hi Charlie. Turning the blade up side down for added strength was a brilliant idea. Cheers from 🦘🇦🇺
Thanks Tyrone. Got to say I've only used these rarely. We had a job attaching curtain brackets to an architrave that had been repaired multiple times over the years and was more plaster than wood. It was good for that as we threaded the fixing from above behind all the stuff we couldn't drill into and then tapped into it. Other than that it's a bit of a gimmick if I'm honest.
Great review of a pants product.
Very Nice Demo!
Hi Charlie. Keep up the informative DIY videos! What method of fixings would you recommend for drylined wall (Dot and Dab)? I know there are products such as Rigifix and Corefix. Are these any good or just gimicks? Would a standard wall plug and long screw do? looking for a heavy duty fixing for a radiator and wall cabinets.
Keep up your good demonstration.
Thanks! Will do my best!
For you to have been able to improve the product performance by turning it upside down after using 10 of them increasing the strength 10 fold really says alot about the product you just reviewed
You are a gadget man. Got good information Thanks.
Thanks John. This is a better video on fixings though ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html 👍
Good review!
Wendy Tully Thanks Wendy!
thanks for this
Call me crazy, we do drive on the right side of the road over here, just to be red blooded and what not... but it seems to me that these might be a bit stronger if they were installed "upside down".
It seems to me that the pull out strength, or stress, from most anchor situations is on the top fastener, where the bottom fastener is more a sheer strength situation.
Making that cut in the board is creating a weak spot at the top, where pull out and board failure is the most likely.
It wouldn't be completely eliminated by having the cut out at the bottom, but it would be about two inches away from where the pull out failure would be a problem, at the top.
Either way, I LOVE THIS ANCHOR.
It's simpler, faster, stronger, and it also solves the problem of putting in two anchors very close together, for a towel bar install etc. The screw in ez anchors are great, but in a case like that they can completely ruin the drywall strength, before the thing's even being put to use!
Kudos to the inventors and production people!
Hi Charlie, thanks for the video's. How hard am I supposed to to tighten using wall plugs? I'm led to believe to tighten until i cant any more with one hand. Now, I'm no David Hasselhoff, but I can keep going and going until......failure!
What's happening here? ( apart from my obvious super human strength ) Am I supposed to only tighten until stiff, and not beyond????
Regards Marc.
Even the very best fixing will only be as strong as the wall you are fixing to. In this case plasterboard. There is no way I would ever even contemplate hanging something as heavy as a kitchen cabinet up on plasterboard. You would absolutely have to fix into the wall behind, or into the studs. The design is interesting, but only good for lightweight items like small picture frames etc. (Just my ten cents). Nice video. Thanks for your work. I will keep watching your channel. 😎
Thanks Phil - appreciate that, and agree with what you say.
tbh the only things I wpould fix directly to pb are items such as a picture or key hooks etc. These should be ok till the cheque clears. Good demo.
I dont like the idea of the screw biting into the fixer at the back without visually seeing whats going on. This must depend on whether you have a screw long enough to engage at the back, its a bit hit and miss for me
Great idea, but I will stick to my toggle fixings
Good video Charlie
Any advice appreciated :-). I have to fit a new shower with fittings in my old bathroom in my old house. The wall I need to screw into has two layers of plasterboard a total of 25mm thick, on top of a very sandy useless lime mortar, which has been skimmed onto a lath wood panel probably at the turn of the century. In the past, I've struggled to get a tight fit . Help!
I have used a lot of plaster board fixings. I honestly feel safer using the standard wall anchors. Because you used a board that allowed us to see the back and we can see the fitting working it gives confidence, but a plasterboard wall doesn’t offer that, and I’d be uncomfortable using this. If the fitting isn’t flat against the back of the board it’s wouldn’t be safe. V interesting product though.
I've got to say, wall anchors are my preferred fixing when I want total confidence in the strength of the fixing. Some people would say snap toggles are as good if not better, but for one reason or another I've never carried them in my tool box.
@@CharlieDIYte Hi charlie what plasterboard fixing would you suggest for hanging a dartboard on a plasterboard wall. Thanks
Recently found your channel and am really enjoying & learning from it - thank you for taking the time. Great review of the bladefixers and good to see the manufacturer listening to your views as well. Can I ask what might be a stupid question.... you mention about not using an impact driver, but what exactly is the difference between an impact driver and an electric screwdriver ot drill-driver? I've used rechargeable drills for years, often with screwdriver bits... Cheers
Hi Martin, it's not a stupid question at all - and in fact I only bought an impact driver a few years ago - when my previous electric screwdriver got stolen when my garage got broken into!
An electric drill typically, as yours does, doubles up as a screwdriver when you turn it onto the slow setting. But this relies entirely on the downward force you are exerting on it to drive the screw home. Fine for screwing small to medium sized screws into reasonably soft wood. But have you ever found yourself in a situation where the screw stops turning and the screw bit just slips out of the screw because you can't apply enough force to drive it home, and makes a mess of both the screw and the bit in the process? Well that's the situation where the impact driver comes into it's own.
It looks similar to the drill driver in terms of shape, though it's typically a bit smaller. It has a collet rather than a chuck, which accepts hex shanked driver bits, and, unlike drill drivers, its sole job is to drive home screws. It uses bit rotation (like your drill driver does) but crucially, it also combines this with concussive blows to power drive your screws through thick, hard wood. The upshot is that it has 3x more turning force than your typical drill driver.
Whereas you end up straining quite a bit when you're pushing down hard on your drill driver, the beauty of the impact driver, is that the concussive motion transfers most of the force from your hands and arms, into the screw itself. Hope that's helpful?!
That's a great explanation Charlie - thank you for taking the time. I thought that's what they did (you can hear the percussive sound when people use them) but thought that would either damage the screw or the substrate - clearly the opposite is true! Best wishes, Martin.
Charlie DIYte I find my impact drives screws in a lot faster. They also have higher torque
What a Spot On explanation, no one could have explained better! Good Job!
The bracket will be at an angle against the wall as you have another layer at the top and not the bottom. You would put the extra metal behind the bottom screw to level it.
i think is a fantastic product loved the video.
Thanks Ratch!
great review, charlie
Hi Charlie and views I'd like your views on fitting a Bannister bracket to a plasterboard. There a 3 wholes in close proximity, which fix should I use ( I've looked on other you tube vids, I've come to conclude Hallow wall anchors - using fixing Gun applicator. Is the strongest? ? What do u think? ? Thanks .
Try Rawlplug Tap It fixings. Just need a bradawl and a hammer to fit. Just used two packs fitting out my daughters new build on a mix of stud and dot and dab walls. Not cheap but very easy and efficient.
Great idea turning it upside down!!
Charlie, what would you recommend for anchoring to lath and plaster? I'm not sure if ~7kg speakers are considered a heavy load or not, but that's what I want to mount and since they have to be in mathematically precise areas, studs are out unless I tear down the plaster and put in batons... which I'd rather not. I imagine standard wallplugs like the fischer duopower will probably just split the old laths.
Seems like the old butterfly toggle is probably the best bet, to spread the load over a lath or two? I'm aware of that giant plastic fixing, but I want to find a balance between the hole made in the wall versus strength of the fixing.
The issue you have with lath and plaster is the depth. It's typically not the same as plasterboard meaning it's tricky to get fixings like the metal wall anchors and indeed things like Duopower to work. That's why the Geefix you mention is so good because it clamps tight regardless of the depth of the wall. Maybe get some T Bolts. I've been pretty impressed with them and they require a smaller hole than the Geefix.
@@CharlieDIYte Yeah, I think the lath and plaster is about an inch deep, from the pieces I've hacked off before. What are T bolts? Googling just gives me some T shaped bolts with nuts which I can't imagine is what you were referring to. Unless you meant the old classic toggle bolts?
What is the capacity weight per bracket please? Thanks.
Nice idea to turn it upside down for wall brackets, If the bottom of the bracket can also be sat such that the bottom of it sits well past the cut into the board then it will be even stronger still. Obviously with a small bracket like the one you show that wouldn't be possible but maybe with bigger brackets.
Also, I'd like to say thanks for the video you did on plastering with your friend. I still made a bit of a mess doing some repairs to a room I am working on, but a lot less than I would have had I not seen that video. So thanks for putting it up and thanks to your friend for his explanations, it was a big help :-)
Hi there - sorry, I don't think I replied to this. Thanks for taking the time to comment - much appreciated, and I'm glad you found the plastering video useful! Thanks again.
Would these be better for wall mounting a TV bracket for large TV's?
If the plasterboard is the only thing you've got to fix to, (as opposed to there being brickwork further back that you can screw into), I would probably still go with a wall anchor, personally. If you do use these I'd insert them upside down like I did at the end of the video.
Thanks Charlie another great vid, I have similar concerns over the dab and dot approach. Be just my luck to install at the same location where the plasterer has dabbed his cement. Having said that they look very strong and would give me a lot of confidence. Like the upside down approach for the very reasons you say. Thumbs up - thank you.
We have more examples of application of the bladefixers on our twitter twitter.com/bladefixers
You're welcome, Mike. Thanks for the comment!
These are good fixings, but a little awkward to use and take some getting used to. But can hold good weight.
There are much better products on the market. ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.htmlsi=jwFF-6dMRpeZBng_
I've got a floating tv unit (approx 40kg) 180cm in length. Which would be the best fittings to stick this to a drywall under my tv bracket please?
D'you know if it's on stud work or dot and dab? If stud work I'd probably go for a wall anchor ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html or Geefix ua-cam.com/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/v-deo.html. If it's dot and dab, use Corefix ua-cam.com/video/fx90VadXSXA/v-deo.html.
I think I have ‘dot and dab’ walls and I’m concerned about the space/clearance behind my plasterboard i.e the space between plasterboard and brick work. As such I bought and used Gripit fixings, although other fixings seem to be better but I cannot use them due to lack of space. The clearance behind plasterboard is determining/restricting my choice of fixing.
That's not a bad choice Rory as the GripIt is one of the best fixings where you've got a shallow space behind the plasterboard. The other fixings I use in this scenario are Fischer PD8 but on balance the GripIt is probably stronger, so long as you don't mind having to drill a larger hole.
Charlie DIYte I had a look online and corefix was a product that states it’s made for dot/dab walls, requiring drilling into blockwork behind plasterboard. Have you used/reviewed these? I don’t really like the drill hole size that is required for GripIt, I’m planning on hanging a heavy mirror above fireplace using a z bar
Rory G hi mate try something callled Dryline Pro, ive used them and they work fine
henrytopcarper hello, yeah I’ve seen these too. I’m just wondering, does it matter what type of block work you have? Hardness, thickness etc. So I’d need masonry drill bit with hammer action
Rory G They come with two drill bits, one for soft blocks and a masonry bit for harder materials, they say to try the standard bit first unless you know what material it is you are drilling into
How would this work if you have foam insulation behind the plasterboard?
I think it would struggle, to be honest. Your best bet in this situation would be to use a hollow wall anchor ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html as this fixing would force its way open, through the foam.
I’ve got to fit a ikea floating shelf, do you see any reason they can’t be used horizontally, I think they might show beyond the shelf
We have an example of it being fitted horizontally on our twitter.
I don't see why they couldn't be used horizontally, except that you need to engage and tighten the screw in the wider guide hole first, as this starts to draw the bladefixer in towards the back of the plasterboard so that it's in position for the second screw. If my memory serves me correctly, you only have two or three screw holes, spread apart on the IKEA bracket, so unless you drill a second hole in the bracket, this fixing isn't going to work. You might be better in this instance using a hollow wall anchor ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html if you've got the space behind the plaster board.
A few comments on this thread have doubted whether you can use the Bladefixer with insulation backed plasterboard. I'm guessing they're right, but have you tried this at all?
Check out ua-cam.com/video/XQJxK_QiDIA/v-deo.html it shows that Bladefixers work on all sorts of insulated plasterboard.
Amongst the mucking about bit, it’s restricted to empty cavity walls where no insulation is. As a joiner, I wouldn’t use them.
Fair comment
Yes as another joiner it is too time-consuming.
Can you give advice to put a coat hanger on the back of a interior door.. It's a hollow door and the skin is not very strong looking..
Ingenious idea. I'm guessing it might not work with 'dab and daub' walls, where their might not be enough space between the plasterboard and the wall for the screw?
With dot and dab you can fix into the block work behind with a corefix fixing.
great but how much weight on a shelf will it hold?
To be honest Alex, there are a lot better fixings on the market, I'd only use this in very limited circumstances.
In my new extension I have plaster board stuck to a solid block wall. There is only a small gap between board and block. I need to hang a reasonably heavy mirror on the wall but because of the small gap an anchor would not fit. I was thinking of using a regular plugs and long screws to go direct into the block and hang the mirror on them. Anyone else have any ideas, please? What screws/plugs are best to use? Thanks in advance.
@Barry Foster Thanks Barry - good advice. I must admit I am leaning towards Coefix plugs having seen a few UA-cam vids of them.
Any reasonable builder, one would hope, would have stud work fitted to accommodate kitchen wall units.
However, if not, the only proper way, is to remove a strip of plasterboard about 4" wide, to allow a stud to be inserted. The removed plasterboard can be re-fitted later.
A joiner, by the way, is someone who joins things together, usually in a factory. A Carpenter however, is someone who can turn a log into furniture. A Master Carpenter, as I am, can turn wood into wine..:-)
S L
"A Master Carpenter, as I am, can turn wood into wine..:-)"
That would be ethanol not wine, careful it will make you go blind :)
@@kevinshort3943 Methanol.
@@alext9067
That's the one.
Sounds like your full of wine SL and yourself 😁
@@redbank493 Pull out the wallboard and put in a 4" piece of wood. Ridiculous. Nobody builds like that. And a carpenter makes furniture? He must be nuts. Carpenters build structures. Not furniture. Holy shit.
At 8:41 you said you cross threaded the screw, did you mean stripped?
stuart cole I should have clarified that, thanks for pointing it out. What I meant wasn't that the screw thread was destroyed, more that the thread of the screw ripped through the groove on the back of the fixing because I over tightened it. It's not likely to happen with a force being exerted on the fixing - the plaster is more likely to fail before that happens - but it is relatively easy to do if you over tighten the screw.
It's rawww
How do you rate this against the Gee Fix from January 2019?
The Gee Fix is way better. I did use one of these to poke into a void at the top of a window architrave boxing and screwed through into it from the front to get a fixing for a curtain pole but I haven't really used them apart from that.
Thanks for the info. The Gee Fix is looking good!
Would these hold a microwave oven ?
How do you cut the other side of the board in a real world application?
You just push it through. I wouldn't recommend these though. There are much better fixings out there was discussed here ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html
i hope they aknowledge your RnD!
They've actually been very appreciative of it, and have taken on board my suggestions.
They did, it's the first post above.
If the blade fixer was sharpened at the pointy end, I don't think you'd need the stanley knife.
Crackin
LaserFalcon Thanks!
To much faffing around for professionals I reckon. Ok for DIY market though.
Not a new idea either, sparkies been using similar fixings for wall boxes for years. Interesting design though.
Best of luck with it.
I'm always looking for good ideas this method would drive me nuts I rather stick with the simple drywall anchors for a DIY like me it seems like too much work..thanks anyways.
I'd never use the self drive (or helter skelter) fixings as plasterboard is too brittle for these to handle any real cantilever force. If you want a really good, general purpose fixing you can do a lot worse than Fischer Duopower 8x50 or 6x40.
Get a sheet of steel and cut out ur own sizes will be cheaper !!!
Nice idea...
I can't believe the most important part was edited from the video, I'm having none of it! Show the second screw going in or it didn't happen!
Here you go Tony ua-cam.com/video/jFL8iB16bNE/v-deo.html
It should work now - a "#" somehow got attached to the end of the link.
Charlie DIYte Perfect! Thanks for adding the edited section, sorted my scepticism right out lol
Enjoy the rest of your weekend 👍🍻
Cheers Tony. You're not the only one to be sceptical on that front!
These have been around for years
Its all good when you can see it biting the other side. Reality is you can’t see therefore your not 100% if it’s fixed properly.
To be honest Alisdair there are much better fixings on the market, like Geefix. The only time I've ever used these was on a job where we couldn't get a fixing into a window architrave box because it had been filled do much over the years, but we were able to stuff one of these in from the top where there was a gap, and then screwed through into it for a decent fixing. The trouble, or one of the troubles with these is you can over tighten them because the steel isn't thick enough.
Just look on amazon,,,My these fixings are too expensive ,around £1 each,!
Why at 6.42 did you jump the video and not show it going in.. you must of done that for a reason.. a problem I gather
No, just the way I edited it. I did this video by way of explanation ua-cam.com/video/jFL8iB16bNE/v-deo.html
Holy crap. Why editing the video!!!!! Meaning it didn’t work.
Not good, putting too much to chance try to get the screws to catch, I notice the clip was edited. The bracket you were hanging was conveniently the same width as the galv fixer so no metal showing. Took too long as well, so much messing.
It's definitely not the best fixing I've tried. Don't accuse me of doctoring the video though - here's the unedited clip ua-cam.com/video/jFL8iB16bNE/v-deo.html
Manual screwdriver....AKA "cordless screwdriver"
gary K A cordless screwdriver could be electric 🤔
LOL...I meant the ORIGINAL cordless screwdriver.
no
Too expensive 50p each
Robert Kitchen Fair point.
Charlie DIYte I do like them though and will probably buy them from sctewfix next time I need to hang a rad.
It's too involved. Good in theory but not very user friendly.
nah! doesnt look great am afraid
Learn how to find studs and you don't need to bother with such things
Yes but the stud isn't always in the right place.
Silly demo , their crap when your trying to fit them in a wall , you have option of looking at the back of your off cut , also m5/6 snap toggles are easier to use and far stronger
Well, this is the point of doing these videos - to find out what everyone thinks. Have you a lot of experience of trying to use these then Neal?
That's the perfect demo, let's everyone be critical of the fixing from the view we would never normally see and lets you see how it actually works. I'd still use a hollow wall anchor right enough.
Its all about the technique. Any issues you are having feel free to email us. www.bladefixers.com
Demo was not silly. It was useful. After watching it I will not be buying them. Interesting product though.
Thank you for that!
You should have described what the device did from the beginning instead of running your mouth with the instructions first. I don't have time to listen to a blurb if I don't think I'll ever need it. Thumbs down make a script next time