From the Eastern Seaboard of the United States. I was almost pulling my hair out with these plastic anchors tonight. Even though it's almost 2:30 in the morning in London It's 9:30 here and I can get my project done now thanks to you. Just a great presentation. Thank you so much.
May I just thank you for the demonstrations. It is amazing to see what happens to the toggles etc on the other side of the wall. Especially as I am about to fix a rotatable television to a breeze block type wall. Thanks again.
Perfect! Just what I was looking for. Need to fix a Wall Heater to a Plasterboard Wall. Think I’ll go with the SnapToggle fixing. It seems the most heavy duty one. Thanks for Posting this. Extremely helpful to me!
Great video, so helpful and clear. I had bought the plasplug heavy duty fixings on the advice of the screwfix staff, the fixings that snap and fail every time. I am now going to take them straight back. So glad I found your video before opening the box ! Thanks
very interesting and useful video, thanks for taking the time to demonstrate these all so well. Expandet Rosett are my personal favourite plasterboard fixings... I've mounted a lot of heavy items with them over the years including a lot of steel cable trunking on ceilings, and their load bearing capacity is fantastic.
2.31mins in and I already know why I've been having so many issues!! Been using the wrong stuff all along! Thanks for sharing and hopefully this new knowledge will help me get over my hate for plasterboard walls!
Thanks, I'd just use one of the worm type screws as they are readily available and inexpensive. Sorry for the late reply, I have just seen your comment!
Mate, brilliant video. The crap fixings should be banned and taken off the market as they are a waste of time and knackers you up! So frustrating. Keep uploading these vids believe me they are very much appreciated👍
Yeah, you're right. Talk about plastic waste, look at all that crap. The nylon worm screws are worse than useless. The metal ones are the only ones worth buying
When using those conical aluminum anchors, it helps if you turn the screw in and out a couple of times when the anchor is still undetached. That way you can avoid using excessive force which will break the plaster board.
+Ultimate Handyman I found the secret of the blue heavy duty PlasPlugs is to use the screw with the smooth neck, but shorter than you ones you tried in the video. The screw should only be as long as the actual length of the plug. The screw bites into the tapped end of the plug when the neck reaches the collar of the plug. The screw then rotates freely in the collar, but the tapped part of the plug is drawn to the wall, expanding the wings against the wall. In your demo, the tapped part of the plug is being driven away from the wall by the pressure of the tapped part of the screw still being driven through the collar. (ps very grateful for your channel... I've refitted three rooms with the lessons learned.)
I don't use these anymore and can't remember where I put them, I just made sure they were not with my other plasterboard fixings! Thanks for the comments
I have found that using a thinner screw helps. Many of the manufacturers specify screws that either break the anchor, or else spin the anchor in the hole in the plasterboard.
The PlasPlugs I bought in Canada work really well - never had a problem with them breaking. I wonder if the ones you got were defective or the screw size wrong? The ones at HomeDepot in Canada include screws, but they're just regular wood screws.
@harry lewis If it's a hollow plasterboard wall I would use snap toggles or the blue Grip it fixings. If the wall is plasterboard with a solid wall behind I would use Rigifix fixings. ua-cam.com/video/xaYfs3lr1jI/v-deo.html
+Ultimate Handyman wow am a plasterer and I didnt know the "Grip It" fixing existed lol... I have plasterboard with solid wall behind it, and in between them I have pipes. So I think Grip It would be my only choice seeing I can only go deep as the plaster board (I have a gap of few mm between hard-wall/pipes and plasterboard). Thanks for this awesome video m8
After testing many plasterboard fixings I'd go for spring toggles in most applications as they are inexpensive and can hold more weight than some of the other fixings- ua-cam.com/video/ECDysfNhx_E/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Jack Jill....It would be normal to install what we call 'grounds' in kitchens with plasterboard walls. Like noggins, but the grounds are lined up just below the height of the top of the cabinet. Basically horizontal pieces of timber attached to the stud work for the specific purpose of hanging wall cabinets. If you must go for a plasterboard fixing then keep all your plates in the base units ;-)
Very informative video showing lots of different types of dry wall fixings, and seeing how they work or don't work in some cases from behind the plasterboard, that we would never get to see ourselves while using in a real life scenario👍
Thank you so much for your clear,straight forward advice! So many on youtube just love listening to their own voice and waffle on forever.Great video,most helpful.
I have always struggled with plasterboard walls (rarely with brick walls) and it usually involves a lot of swearing. I have just had to take some shelves down that were sagging and falling off the wall. I got some new shelves repaired the wall and searched the internet and came across this video. I opted for the redi drivers as I can get those at B&Q. Most of the others I can't find there. I have struggled with redi drivers in the past but your tips on screw length etc were a life saver. Apart from one of the eight I had to do, where there seemed to be filler/brick behind the board, everything is now up and secure. Great video!
Very nice round up there. Great to see the fail points on camera, those plasplugs were utter crap! Never used the snap toggles myself but they look very good, used most of the others in some form and for my money it's very hard to beat umbrella fixings, strong, permanent, easy to fit (I don't have a tool) and cheap as well. What is the load rating difference like between the snap toggles and the umbrella fixings? Are snap toggles a bit more heavy duty?
+caskwith Thanks, I'm going to do a video soon seeing what weights some of these fixings can hold in plasterboard. I think the snap toggles are more heavy duty than the spring toggles, but have not tested them to be 100% certain yet. Thanks for the comment
Great video. Really helpful. I actually watched this after buying some heavy duty Plasplugs. I used them to put up some shelves for light use. I actually found them to be really good. Did the job well. The shelves are only to hold DVDs but really secure.
Oh my god i was screwing something into a wall when this video auto played. the beginning made me think i hit a pipe and i panicked. seems like everyone else loves your videos 👍
When you use Ready Driver Zinc Worm Screws as you name them, coat them in PVA glue as they go in and they will set solid and consequently be a much stronger fixture. PVA will bond porous to non-porous materials in this way.
Given the flat tip of these zinc worm screws, it makes sense to start off by tapping them in to position with a hammer, up to the thread. Then use a screw driver with some pressure. This will ensure greater accuracy of the fitting location.
Very useful video. I appreciate that you referenced both Metric and SAE sizes. There are two kinds of countries in the world, those that use the Metric System and those that send men to the moon. Just kidding, great work my friend.
What an excellent video. Loved the fact you showed behind the plaster board to see how each fixing worked. Now to go buy the ones I need for my shelves.
what I do is drill through the wall in to next room and put a steel plate .on the wall. 6 inch square and 1 inch thick. 10 mm bar and bolt it down..and that is hang anything on it
This is quite common if you were to look up at some of the older buildings you will see a cast iron plate with a nut in the centre. Saves rebuilding the wall for some time.
I hate the spring toggles, they don't work in modern homes with insulation in the walls, they just get caught up in the insulation and don't work for me.
They are only rated at around 10kg and I have found many others that are rated at 15kg and heaps easier to install. The tabs don't seem to spring out when there is any insulation in the walls.
I tested some out in this video and they were the best performing plasterboard fixing- ua-cam.com/video/ECDysfNhx_E/v-deo.html Perhaps you could try moving some of the insulation away from the hole?
Here in the USA the home of wallboard.... Being a soft material you will find a wood drill bit does a much better job! If the item to be hung is less than 10lbs/4.5 kilos a nail driven down at a 45degree angle into the wallboard is more than adequate. And no we do not skim coat wallboard with plaster! Just tape & mud the joints, mud the screw holes, light sand to smooth and either texture, prime and paint or just prime and paint. Why pay hundreds extra in material & labor when you could never tell the difference. Other than our way won’t crack!
@@felinthorn4977 I disagree here in the USA we call it sheetrock or drywall. PS there are areas of that USA that call it plasterboard and the "mud" is a skim coat. Here in the area of the USA were I live it's call joint compound.
@@felinthorn4977 Sorry but plasterboard was invented in the UK and we have been using it longest . We either mesh tape every joint and then skim it with plaster or paper tape the joints and sand . I have been putting it up for over 45 years and skimming definatly produces a superior job . Which is far less prone to knock damage . I find that a masonary drill in a drill not in hammer mode produces the best hole for fixings
Thanks a lot for this video! I just moved into a flat with plasterboard inner walls, had no experience with them before. You saved me from buying useless cheap stuff and wasting my time.
Exactly the video I was looking for. I need to hang a heavy-bag (punch-bag) weighing about 40kg to my plasterboard main wall, which doesn't appear to be dot-and-dab. The 10mm/7cm wall plugs that come with the wall stand don't look sturdy enough for the job. Looks like I'm going to need the Grip-It fixings for a proper job. Many thanks for the tips and interesting plus informative to see the actual mechanics of how these things work on the 'other side' of the wall. Superb stuff!
Extremely informative video with no wasted time. Probably the best video I've ever seen on UA-cam with regard to quality information and efficiency of time!
Once again a useful video. Those reading these comments might want to consider using 'Bullfix' fixings, which are similar to the 'GripIt' but have wider plastic wings on the inner wall side. I have just used four of them to hang a 43" QLED TV on a stud partition wall and it's rock solid, much to my amazement. The pack I purchased had 10 fixings, corresponding screws and the necessary 20mm drill bit, all for around £10, so enough left over to hang another TV.
Did not even know that snap toggles even existed as not stocked at my local hardware shop. Thanks for a great video (even though it took youtube seven years to suggest it!!!) They look perfect for my next project.
Brilliant video. Thanks! I am doing a number of projects that require drilling into plasterboard instead of hitting a stud and was not sure how all the wall anchors differed in effectiveness. This video was very helpful!
Very informative. I've been using the metal collapsible ones for years and didn't even know about that tool - will have to get one. I just used my sense of resistance to tell if they were collapsing nice and neatly.
Took me years of pain and distress to learn what you have shown in 10mins my friend! Well done - great informative video for avoiding plasterboard disasters and wasting money! Can highly recommend the last item (the red plastic circular discs) just fitted out a load of kitchen wall cupboards using them. Manufacturer boasts a hanging weight of the red ones to 75kg! (Other weights/sizes/colour codes available too). Big tip with them is not to be frightened of tightening the screw right up to ensure a nice secure fitting. Top video👍
Excellent overview: well done. I've seen similar remarks about the Plasplugs heavy duty plasterboard hollow wall anchors elsewhere, though some people use them without problems. The manufacturer does supply screws with some packs: they appear to be simple number 8s, so this isn't a problem with using the wrong screw.
Amazing Hanged a big tv on a concrete wall and needed to hang another on a plaster board , but stopped not knowing how to go about it with the risk could result from that , but know I feel confident for the job Thanks a million
Great video, just what I needed. Fitting an Ikea Tretur roller blind upwards into the top of a window cavity/window bay. It was straightforward in the toilet - plasterboard over a lintel, so I used gradually increasing drill bits, and masonry bit for the last 0.5cm or so. Then used ordinary wall plugs, which have given a firm attachment. However, the apparently similar situation in the bathroom is not the same at all. Drilling into the plasterboard, there was very quickly no resistance. Poking a bradawl into the drill hole, it's clear that there is a cavity on the other side of the plasterboard. As the roller blind involves pulling downwards, it needs to be a secure attachment - I think the snap toggle is probably best (because the holes in the bracket are quite small, and fairly closer together, so the other options would involve drilling wider holes, close together - could cause the plasterboard to fail completely).
Just finished - a 4-hour job including a trip to Screwfix! It was a bit fiddly because .... well, Ikea. I've now screwed into stone lintel a few times and think it would be a good video for you to do. ;-) (I've never come across the situation above before. It was a bit of a bugger, because (a) I didn't know if there was enough space for the toggle to spring open before it hit the lintel, and (b) if the screw didn't go straight, it wouldn't go into the gap I had drilled in the lintel to allow me to screw it fully in. I think one of the 6 screws actually did hit the lintel, and I ended up having to leave about 2mm of it sticking out, but thankfully it didn't impede the roller blind clipping into the bracket. Phew! I always have a nervous moment doing even basic DIY, when I have made a dickens of a mess and think, "If this doesn't work, I have 6 lovely big holes in my newly-painted plasterboard"!
This is a cool video which makes you understand various options for drywall fixing for various situations. Thanks for detailed explanation. Liked your accent and the way you speak. Cheers.
Thank you so much! I never knew that hollow wall anchors required a setting tool. I tried expanding the legs at the back just by tightening the screw in as I attached the fitting, only to see the anchor turn in the plasterboard and not grip. So I never used them again as I thought they were useless. I'e got dozens of them, unused, which now I will use ,after buying the setting tool on Ebay AU$12 !
never had luck with nylon plugs. Im sticking to the reaady driver/ wallmates .works every time for most aplications including hanging paintings & fixing thermostats for heaters.👍 good video as most people have no idea how these things work
Fantastic video. the most definitive video I have seen on plasterboard fixings by far and the rear view was very interesting. I keep a box of those plasterboard plugs (grey) on the van. good to see that they are actually as good as useless for the applications I would use them. I didn't get the point of those large ones at the end, they don't look as strong as either the snap toggles or spring toggles but you have to make a massive hole. Spring toggles are my go too when I need a good fixing. Snap toggles look good but are not cheap!
Excellent info. I've just done some tests at home with 2 layers of 12.5mm plasterboard. Yesterday i fitted 6 ceiling lights for a customer, each light was around 5kilos, so i used 3 of them metal screw types per light, but you reall MUST ream them out 1st , hold em with pliers & put the screw in a couple of times. My test at home involved me using 2 ( screwed into double thickness 12.5mm board) i could pull nearly 50kilos before they popped out. Ive seen quite a few videos of tradesmen just using an impact wrench to screw in the metal ones which in my opinion will normally spin the " metal fixing" and your then left with a large hole.
I've been struggled to mount my TV on a drywall since the kit that comes with the mount only includes parts for concrete wall/wall stud. Your video is so helpful! I am gonna go with the snap toggle.
Hey there Ultimate Handyman. Thanks for the video. A lot of these I had seen but some are new to me. Very interesting as I do a bit of fixing into walls and now after watching your "road test" I am going to try some of these others. The ready driver in Australia is called a wallmate, same thing and yes it comes in aluminium and nylon. Cheers.
Great video we've just bought some cupboards from ikea and I only said to my partner last night that I didn't know what type of fixing to use and then this video pops up for recommended viewing 👍👍👍
That was excellent, thank you. I knew how they worked but seeing it from the rear of the plasterboard was great. I've a TV to put on a cavity wall with no studs near it, so was thinking about using Gripits. Definitely will be now. Thanks again.
@@ultimatehandyman I ended up using Fischer Duotec fixings. There was a section of chipboard behind the plasterboard which made it too thick for the Gripits. I found the Duotec to be excellent though.
Brilliant, i've tried many different plugs in the past and many have failed, like you've shown here, I thought it was just my curse. Looks like I need to try the Grip-it fixings to hang the TV on the wall.
THIS IS WHAT I CALL A USEFUL VIDEO
Thanks for the comment ;-)
What would be the best one to hold a 2.6k projector from a plasterboard ceiling?
Absolutely
From the Eastern Seaboard of the United States. I was almost pulling my hair out with these plastic anchors tonight. Even though it's almost 2:30 in the morning in London It's 9:30 here and I can get my project done now thanks to you. Just a great presentation. Thank you so much.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
May I just thank you for the demonstrations. It is amazing to see what happens to the toggles etc on the other side of the wall. Especially as I am about to fix a rotatable television to a breeze block type wall. Thanks again.
Perfect! Just what I was looking for.
Need to fix a Wall Heater to a Plasterboard Wall. Think I’ll go with the SnapToggle fixing. It seems the most heavy duty one.
Thanks for Posting this. Extremely helpful to me!
Great video! It's nice to see the back of the board and observe exactly what is happening when being tightened. Thanks a million!
Thanks for the comment
Great video, so helpful and clear. I had bought the plasplug heavy duty fixings on the advice of the screwfix staff, the fixings that snap and fail every time. I am now going to take them straight back. So glad I found your video before opening the box ! Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
very interesting and useful video, thanks for taking the time to demonstrate these all so well. Expandet Rosett are my personal favourite plasterboard fixings... I've mounted a lot of heavy items with them over the years including a lot of steel cable trunking on ceilings, and their load bearing capacity is fantastic.
2.31mins in and I already know why I've been having so many issues!! Been using the wrong stuff all along! Thanks for sharing and hopefully this new knowledge will help me get over my hate for plasterboard walls!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Perfectly explained and right up to date. So glad I watched this before rushing into the job.
I'm glad the video helps
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Up to date 5 years ago.
@@roybatty4687 No shit, Sherlock.
@@ultimatehandyman hi what is the best and strongest to be able hold a projector from a ceiling?
Invaluable information, saved me a lot of guesswork and money! Thank you
You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video! Learned a lot in short time!
Great video, what would you recommend to hang a standard size clock?
Thanks, I'd just use one of the worm type screws as they are readily available and inexpensive.
Sorry for the late reply, I have just seen your comment!
I am so glad you demo'd the Gripit at the end. Because I have NO room behind the plaster board. So it saved my life.
They are very useful in such situations ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Briliant video, very clear, straightforward with honest comments about performance, pros and cons. Just what people need. Thank you.
Mate, brilliant video. The crap fixings should be banned and taken off the market as they are a waste of time and knackers you up! So frustrating. Keep uploading these vids believe me they are very much appreciated👍
Thanks, I'll be making more videos when I get chance ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Amazon video. Thanks
Yeah, you're right. Talk about plastic waste, look at all that crap. The nylon worm screws are worse than useless. The metal ones are the only ones worth buying
Excellent tutorial!
+Jim Sear
Thanks Jim ;-)
One of the most informative videos I have seen on wall anchors. I saw exactly what each anchor did. PERFECT ! Thanks much !
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Probably the best video on plasterboard fixings available on UA-cam. Well done, and thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Great overview, thanks a lot! Now I actually want to hang my whole wall full of junk, just for the sake of hanging things :)
+Koffi Banan
Ha Ha, Thanks for the comment ;-)
This really made me laugth, people now thinks I'm crazy.
Lol, same!
When using those conical aluminum anchors, it helps if you turn the screw in and out a couple of times when the anchor is still undetached. That way you can avoid using excessive force which will break the plaster board.
This is the most comprehensive video I have ever seen on fixings, thank you. Subscribed!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
By far, the best demonstration of drywall fasteners I've ever seen!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman
I found the secret of the blue heavy duty PlasPlugs is to use the screw with the smooth neck, but shorter than you ones you tried in the video. The screw should only be as long as the actual length of the plug. The screw bites into the tapped end of the plug when the neck reaches the collar of the plug. The screw then rotates freely in the collar, but the tapped part of the plug is drawn to the wall, expanding the wings against the wall. In your demo, the tapped part of the plug is being driven away from the wall by the pressure of the tapped part of the screw still being driven through the collar.
(ps very grateful for your channel... I've refitted three rooms with the lessons learned.)
If the screw is so critical to these fixings working you would expect the manufacturers to supply screws with the product.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Agree - either supply the screws or state what works in the instructions!
That said, I may just have got lucky. Does it work for you?
I don't use these anymore and can't remember where I put them, I just made sure they were not with my other plasterboard fixings!
Thanks for the comments
I have found that using a thinner screw helps. Many of the manufacturers specify screws that either break the anchor, or else spin the anchor in the hole in the plasterboard.
The PlasPlugs I bought in Canada work really well - never had a problem with them breaking. I wonder if the ones you got were defective or the screw size wrong? The ones at HomeDepot in Canada include screws, but they're just regular wood screws.
@harry lewis
If it's a hollow plasterboard wall I would use snap toggles or the blue Grip it fixings. If the wall is plasterboard with a solid wall behind I would use Rigifix fixings. ua-cam.com/video/xaYfs3lr1jI/v-deo.html
+Ultimate Handyman wow am a plasterer and I didnt know the "Grip It" fixing existed lol... I have plasterboard with solid wall behind it, and in between them I have pipes. So I think Grip It would be my only choice seeing I can only go deep as the plaster board (I have a gap of few mm between hard-wall/pipes and plasterboard).
Thanks for this awesome video m8
+MarkUs FinSki
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman
snap toggle or grip it what would you say is better best for using generally and using to hang kitchen cabinets and tv brackets
After testing many plasterboard fixings I'd go for spring toggles in most applications as they are inexpensive and can hold more weight than some of the other fixings-
ua-cam.com/video/ECDysfNhx_E/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Jack Jill....It would be normal to install what we call 'grounds' in kitchens with plasterboard walls. Like noggins, but the grounds are lined up just below the height of the top of the cabinet.
Basically horizontal pieces of timber attached to the stud work for the specific purpose of hanging wall cabinets.
If you must go for a plasterboard fixing then keep all your plates in the base units ;-)
Very informative video showing lots of different types of dry wall fixings, and seeing how they work or don't work in some cases from behind the plasterboard, that we would never get to see ourselves while using in a real life scenario👍
Thanks Mark 👍
Your videos are SO HELPFUL! Thank you. I have just moved to my first home and this has really helped with navigating new projects.
I’m glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
now I understand what's going on the dark side
+l3ertuz
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Lol
amazing video thank you
really helped me decide how to hang my tele off plasterboard
much appreciated
Thank you so much for your clear,straight forward advice! So many on youtube just love listening to their own voice and waffle on forever.Great video,most helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have always struggled with plasterboard walls (rarely with brick walls) and it usually involves a lot of swearing. I have just had to take some shelves down that were sagging and falling off the wall. I got some new shelves repaired the wall and searched the internet and came across this video. I opted for the redi drivers as I can get those at B&Q. Most of the others I can't find there. I have struggled with redi drivers in the past but your tips on screw length etc were a life saver. Apart from one of the eight I had to do, where there seemed to be filler/brick behind the board, everything is now up and secure. Great video!
Thanks for the comment
Very nice round up there. Great to see the fail points on camera, those plasplugs were utter crap! Never used the snap toggles myself but they look very good, used most of the others in some form and for my money it's very hard to beat umbrella fixings, strong, permanent, easy to fit (I don't have a tool) and cheap as well. What is the load rating difference like between the snap toggles and the umbrella fixings? Are snap toggles a bit more heavy duty?
+caskwith
Thanks, I'm going to do a video soon seeing what weights some of these fixings can hold in plasterboard. I think the snap toggles are more heavy duty than the spring toggles, but have not tested them to be 100% certain yet.
Thanks for the comment
Would someone please buy this man a cordless screwdriver.
It is advised to use hand driven screwdrivers with all these fixings when used on plasterboard
One of the most useful tutorials on the subject on You Tube. To the point, practical. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video. Really helpful. I actually watched this after buying some heavy duty Plasplugs. I used them to put up some shelves for light use. I actually found them to be really good. Did the job well. The shelves are only to hold DVDs but really secure.
Thanks, Alan.
I did not have much success with some of the Plasplugs fixings.
Thanks for the comment
Whenever i knock a hole in the wall too big for an anchor I fill it with epoxy putty and when it dries it holds screws pretty well.
Thanks for the comment
2019 and I like this video
Thanks for the comment
Great video - gives us such a great understanding of how each fixing works, both on the visible and non-visible side. Very nicely done!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Oh my god i was screwing something into a wall when this video auto played. the beginning made me think i hit a pipe and i panicked. seems like everyone else loves your videos 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
When you use Ready Driver Zinc Worm Screws as you name them, coat them in PVA glue as they go in and they will set solid and consequently be a much stronger fixture. PVA will bond porous to non-porous materials in this way.
Thanks Phil, I don't use them much to be honest but I'll try that next time.
Also why not use drill instead of screw driver it’s quicker and you can set the correct torque needed
Given the flat tip of these zinc worm screws, it makes sense to start off by tapping them in to position with a hammer, up to the thread. Then use a screw driver with some pressure. This will ensure greater accuracy of the fitting location.
Very useful video. I appreciate that you referenced both Metric and SAE sizes. There are two kinds of countries in the world, those that use the Metric System and those that send men to the moon. Just kidding, great work my friend.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
What an excellent video. Loved the fact you showed behind the plaster board to see how each fixing worked. Now to go buy the ones I need for my shelves.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks bud. I'm not too good at DIY but you've just made me feel a little more confident with your clear and informative videos.
Glad I could help 👍
what I do is drill through the wall in to next room and put a steel plate .on the wall. 6 inch square and 1 inch thick. 10 mm bar and bolt it down..and that is hang anything on it
Specs sound reasonable, but to avoid undesirable shear loading, i would actually recommend drilling across that room and into the far wall.
This is quite common if you were to look up at some of the older buildings you will see a cast iron plate with a nut in the centre. Saves rebuilding the wall for some time.
proper hardcore. question is: is it bulletproof though? :)
Good neighbour
Dave Jenkins, you crack me up. Very funny !!!
I hate the spring toggles, they don't work in modern homes with insulation in the walls, they just get caught up in the insulation and don't work for me.
Surprisingly they are one of the strongest fixings available!
Thanks for the comment
They are only rated at around 10kg and I have found many others that are rated at 15kg and heaps easier to install. The tabs don't seem to spring out when there is any insulation in the walls.
I tested some out in this video and they were the best performing plasterboard fixing- ua-cam.com/video/ECDysfNhx_E/v-deo.html
Perhaps you could try moving some of the insulation away from the hole?
Try Fischer 6mm plasterboard plugs for light-med. duty :]
They are the only ones I use. Find they are the strongest.
Plastic snap toggle or spring toggle all the way...no question! They've never let me down!
Thanks for the comment 👍
REALLY useful, thank you. No more crappy wall plugs for this DIYer. Much appreciated :-)
you dont need a setting tool pal
Yes, I know but some people have had issues with them not biting and spinning in the plasterboard ;-)
Thanks for the comment
its the best way for the best possible result
Huh didn't even know that there was a setting tool. I just tap it with a hammer and screw it in so it mushrooms.
Great video. People who have given this the thumbs down are morons.
Far easier with a tool
He lost my respect when he started using a masonry drill on plasterboard...
What would you use on plasterboard?
Here in the USA the home of wallboard....
Being a soft material you will find a wood drill bit does a much better job!
If the item to be hung is less than 10lbs/4.5 kilos a nail driven down at a 45degree angle into the wallboard is more than adequate.
And no we do not skim coat wallboard with plaster! Just tape & mud the joints, mud the screw holes, light sand to smooth and either texture, prime and paint or just prime and paint.
Why pay hundreds extra in material & labor when you could never tell the difference.
Other than our way won’t crack!
@@felinthorn4977 I disagree here in the USA we call it sheetrock or drywall.
PS there are areas of that USA that call it plasterboard and the "mud" is a skim coat. Here in the area of the USA were I live it's call joint compound.
@@felinthorn4977 Sorry but plasterboard was invented in the UK and we have been using it longest . We either mesh tape every joint and then skim it with plaster or paper tape the joints and sand . I have been putting it up for over 45 years and skimming definatly produces a superior job . Which is far less prone to knock damage . I find that a masonary drill in a drill not in hammer mode produces the best hole for fixings
Why would you use a wood bit. HSS bit with no hammer action, sorted.
Thanks a lot for this video! I just moved into a flat with plasterboard inner walls, had no experience with them before. You saved me from buying useless cheap stuff and wasting my time.
You are welcome
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You just made the very daunting prospect of hanging my tv in my new home a lot easier. Thank you
+John Davies
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Exactly the video I was looking for. I need to hang a heavy-bag (punch-bag) weighing about 40kg to my plasterboard main wall, which doesn't appear to be dot-and-dab. The 10mm/7cm wall plugs that come with the wall stand don't look sturdy enough for the job. Looks like I'm going to need the Grip-It fixings for a proper job. Many thanks for the tips and interesting plus informative to see the actual mechanics of how these things work on the 'other side' of the wall. Superb stuff!
Extremely informative video with no wasted time. Probably the best video I've ever seen on UA-cam with regard to quality information and efficiency of time!
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Very informative. Thanks for posting.Notes to self; Favorite items:3:24 - Worm Screw Anchor 6:14 - Snap Toggle Anchor8:19 - Spring Toggle Anchor9:00 - Grip-it Anchor
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Brillaint video. As a new build owner where ALL the walls are plasterboard, this is brilliant
I’m glad you found the video useful
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Thank you for this, such a help when you have to be mum and dad! God bless you.
You are so welcome!
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Well done...also quite comprehensive in a short presentation. Nice to see what's happening inside the wall.
Thanks!
You are welcome
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I thought this video was very well made, clear, easy to understand and a great help. well done and thank you.
You are welcome Jean, Thanks for the comment.
Once again a useful video. Those reading these comments might want to consider using 'Bullfix' fixings, which are similar to the 'GripIt' but have wider plastic wings on the inner wall side. I have just used four of them to hang a 43" QLED TV on a stud partition wall and it's rock solid, much to my amazement. The pack I purchased had 10 fixings, corresponding screws and the necessary 20mm drill bit, all for around £10, so enough left over to hang another TV.
I recently tested the Bullfix extra, although the video has not been made public yet- ua-cam.com/video/h5UqIlw61Vw/v-deo.html
Excellent video and to the point narration. Extremely useful for the DIY divas amongst us.
I'm glad the video helped
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Timeless tutorials, just what I needed, thank you!!
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Great video helped me loads deciding the fixing for my Tv, Thank you for making this video and sharing.
Very good demonstration of the myriad of plaster board fixings available. Personally I've never found one that "suits all".
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Excellent. I love being able to see the "inside" parts. Thank you!
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Did not even know that snap toggles even existed as not stocked at my local hardware shop. Thanks for a great video (even though it took youtube seven years to suggest it!!!) They look perfect for my next project.
They are brilliant and my number one choice of fixing to plasterboard 👍
Brilliant video. Thanks! I am doing a number of projects that require drilling into plasterboard instead of hitting a stud and was not sure how all the wall anchors differed in effectiveness. This video was very helpful!
I'm glad the video helped.
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From 3 years until now still very informative thanks mate
I'm glad you found the video useful
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Very informative. I've been using the metal collapsible ones for years and didn't even know about that tool - will have to get one. I just used my sense of resistance to tell if they were collapsing nice and neatly.
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Took me years of pain and distress to learn what you have shown in 10mins my friend! Well done - great informative video for avoiding plasterboard disasters and wasting money! Can highly recommend the last item (the red plastic circular discs) just fitted out a load of kitchen wall cupboards using them. Manufacturer boasts a hanging weight of the red ones to 75kg! (Other weights/sizes/colour codes available too). Big tip with them is not to be frightened of tightening the screw right up to ensure a nice secure fitting. Top video👍
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Excellent overview: well done. I've seen similar remarks about the Plasplugs heavy duty plasterboard hollow wall anchors elsewhere, though some people use them without problems.
The manufacturer does supply screws with some packs: they appear to be simple number 8s, so this isn't a problem with using the wrong screw.
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It's reviews like this that save me a lot of time and money ..thanks 👍
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Amazing
Hanged a big tv on a concrete wall and needed to hang another on a plaster board , but stopped not knowing how to go about it with the risk could result from that , but know I feel confident for the job
Thanks a million
I'm glad the video helped
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To mirror everyone else, what an excellent video. Very well explained without the crap so many use.
Glad you liked it!
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I bought the Plasplugs heavy duty yesterday for my dartboard. Thought I'd check this out before I did any drilling. Glad I did.
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This is an excellent video and a great demo of the various fixings available - good job ! - Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
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First time having to fix something to plasterboard. This was invaluable, thanks!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, just what I needed. Fitting an Ikea Tretur roller blind upwards into the top of a window cavity/window bay. It was straightforward in the toilet - plasterboard over a lintel, so I used gradually increasing drill bits, and masonry bit for the last 0.5cm or so. Then used ordinary wall plugs, which have given a firm attachment.
However, the apparently similar situation in the bathroom is not the same at all. Drilling into the plasterboard, there was very quickly no resistance. Poking a bradawl into the drill hole, it's clear that there is a cavity on the other side of the plasterboard. As the roller blind involves pulling downwards, it needs to be a secure attachment - I think the snap toggle is probably best (because the holes in the bracket are quite small, and fairly closer together, so the other options would involve drilling wider holes, close together - could cause the plasterboard to fail completely).
Just finished - a 4-hour job including a trip to Screwfix! It was a bit fiddly because .... well, Ikea. I've now screwed into stone lintel a few times and think it would be a good video for you to do. ;-)
(I've never come across the situation above before. It was a bit of a bugger, because (a) I didn't know if there was enough space for the toggle to spring open before it hit the lintel, and (b) if the screw didn't go straight, it wouldn't go into the gap I had drilled in the lintel to allow me to screw it fully in. I think one of the 6 screws actually did hit the lintel, and I ended up having to leave about 2mm of it sticking out, but thankfully it didn't impede the roller blind clipping into the bracket. Phew! I always have a nervous moment doing even basic DIY, when I have made a dickens of a mess and think, "If this doesn't work, I have 6 lovely big holes in my newly-painted plasterboard"!
Brilliant as ever! Pretty sure you're now my No1 UA-cam DIY goto guy! Cheers!
Wow, thanks!
really informative video. I would request you to update this video with the latest options. Thanks for the video.
Very good. Systematic and adequate demonstration of the options. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is a cool video which makes you understand various options for drywall fixing for various situations. Thanks for detailed explanation. Liked your accent and the way you speak. Cheers.
I'm glad you found the video useful ;-)
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Brilliant - informative and comprehensive, without any waffle.
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Thank you so much! I never knew that hollow wall anchors required a setting tool. I tried expanding the legs at the back just by tightening the screw in as I attached the fitting, only to see the anchor turn in the plasterboard and not grip. So I never used them again as I thought they were useless. I'e got dozens of them, unused, which now I will use ,after buying the setting tool on Ebay AU$12 !
You are welcome
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never had luck with nylon plugs. Im sticking to the reaady driver/ wallmates .works every time for most aplications including hanging paintings & fixing thermostats for heaters.👍 good video as most people have no idea how these things work
Thanks for the comment Lee ;-)
Very handy video, Thank you. I used the plasterboard fitting which you used without the setting tool and it worked fine with an impact gun.
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Thanks! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. Big fan of universal plugs as they always work, even when there is a piece of wood partially behind the place you are drilling
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Thank you for the information. Great video demonstration.
Very good video, very informative. I've made note of 3 different fixing methods i never even knew existed, so thank you very much.
+aserta
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Wall Anchors are 🔥. Couple of squeezes from the "tool" and they are firmly locked in. I've hung heavy mirrors and paintings with them and no issues
👍
Fantastic video. the most definitive video I have seen on plasterboard fixings by far and the rear view was very interesting. I keep a box of those plasterboard plugs (grey) on the van. good to see that they are actually as good as useless for the applications I would use them.
I didn't get the point of those large ones at the end, they don't look as strong as either the snap toggles or spring toggles but you have to make a massive hole. Spring toggles are my go too when I need a good fixing. Snap toggles look good but are not cheap!
+EssexSpark Thanks ;-)The snap toggles are my favourite, they are far superior to other plasterboard fixings.Thanks for the comment
This helped my Dad a lot. Thank you very much.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Excellent info.
I've just done some tests at home with 2 layers of 12.5mm plasterboard. Yesterday i fitted 6 ceiling lights for a customer, each light was around 5kilos, so i used 3 of them metal screw types per light, but you reall MUST ream them out 1st , hold em with pliers & put the screw in a couple of times.
My test at home involved me using 2 ( screwed into double thickness 12.5mm board) i could pull nearly 50kilos before they popped out. Ive seen quite a few videos of tradesmen just using an impact wrench to screw in the metal ones which in my opinion will normally spin the " metal fixing" and your then left with a large hole.
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I've been struggled to mount my TV on a drywall since the kit that comes with the mount only includes parts for concrete wall/wall stud. Your video is so helpful! I am gonna go with the snap toggle.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very helpful, thank you. I didn't even know such a thing as the Snap Toggle existed.
+Tank L. Jackson You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video! Thank you man, you saved me trouble, these Snaptoggles are amazing for plasterboard.
Glad I could help 👍
Hey there Ultimate Handyman. Thanks for the video. A lot of these I had seen but some are new to me. Very interesting as I do a bit of fixing into walls and now after watching your "road test" I am going to try some of these others. The ready driver in Australia is called a wallmate, same thing and yes it comes in aluminium and nylon. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment
Great video we've just bought some cupboards from ikea and I only said to my partner last night that I didn't know what type of fixing to use and then this video pops up for recommended viewing 👍👍👍
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
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Matthew Pearsall
That was excellent, thank you. I knew how they worked but seeing it from the rear of the plasterboard was great. I've a TV to put on a cavity wall with no studs near it, so was thinking about using Gripits. Definitely will be now. Thanks again.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman I ended up using Fischer Duotec fixings. There was a section of chipboard behind the plasterboard which made it too thick for the Gripits. I found the Duotec to be excellent though.
What an incredibly useful video; everyhting you need to know in one place. Thank you.
I’m glad you found the video useful
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Brilliant, i've tried many different plugs in the past and many have failed, like you've shown here, I thought it was just my curse. Looks like I need to try the Grip-it fixings to hang the TV on the wall.
The Grip-It fixings work well.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Very helpful and excellent guidance, the recommendations in the video work very well. Many thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful, and always good to hear the sound of the tools and the narrator rather than generic wallpaper muzak
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍