So I have steel framed windows that were glazed forever ago before i purchased my building, and prolly when it was built.After purchasing and remodeling I spayed painted the window frame and glazing and it looked new, recently from a bad hailstorm and heat here in west texas, some is cracked or small pieces broken off, would I still be able to use this same technique? Since the paint was enamel BLESSINGS
Awesome info! So I have a TON of cedar siding to protect and I'm thinking of using linseed paint. So do I need to make sure to use linseed putty....the paint won't work with regular putty? What about caulk? Will linseed paint work to paint good flexible caulk like a silicone caulk? I want to use linseed paint but scared it won't last a real long time. I know it's easier to reapply since it doesn't peel/crack....which is great....but I'm hearing I'd probably have to deal with the color being badly faded and having to reapply, after just a few years. Do you have any thoughts about it?
Linseed oil paint is made from purified linseed oil, oxide pigment, zinc white and chalk. This will outlast any type of paint that is made from Petrochemical oil ( Acrylic, Alkyd and Latex). Use linseed oil putty and paint over right away. Never use any silicone putty or other petrochemical oil based fillers as they will not last and is not compatible with real linseed oil based material. New Cedar siding should a primer first that you make by mixing 30% Ottosson linseed oil paint to 70% of our purified raw linseed oil. Do not use the primer if you are painting over old but still adhering paint.
@@erikeriksson4119 my main reason for asking if linseed paint will bond well to silicone caulk is because I'll be painting siding and while I'm scraping all the old paint off, I do not want to try to remove the old silicone (which is bonded very well)....I'd rather just paint over it. Any new sealing that needs to be done I'd use linseed putty....but I'm worried about the old stuff I'd need to paint over.
@@stephenwhite5444 Sorry for the delay on getting to your question here. While we do try our best to talk folks out of using modern caulk/filler/epoxy products, Linseed Oil Paint does usually adhere to many of these product once they are fully cured. Since what you are dealing with is old, it is probably fine. I would do a little spot test to confirm the Linseed Oil Paint goes on nicely (there are so many different types of products that have been used over the years) before you jump into the entire project - just to be on the safe side. The biggest factor is that those modern products may be weak points that trap moisture over time. The Linseed Oil Paint should allow that moisture to breath out around these spots at least. Does that make sense?
I just started the process of restoring windows in my house from 1939. I can already tell the difference in a previous putty fix. the more recent putty did not stick well and comes off really easy as if it did not stick at all to the wood and is still kind of rubbery. The last paint job was in the 80's before storm windows were put over top of the older windows. your tips are very helpful thank you!!
Glad to hear the video was helpful as you dive into your own window restoration project. Windows are challenging with a complex set of restoration steps. Be kind to yourself as you get started and know your first window will be the least beautiful, but your last will show all the skill you have taught yourself. Good luck!
What if it was glazed with linseed and soybean Sarco type M putty and painted with exterior acrylic (no primer as per Sarco recommendations)after 2 weeks despite some wrinkling? Can the syrup remedy help? The rabbets were stained with oil base stain and were to receive one coat of spar urethane before glazing( I'm afraid it wasn't 😔 done). The windows are 104 years old and were stripped down to the gorgeous wood and repairs, including clamping and fabricating missing parts (badly damaged and rotten off) were made. I would hate to risk removing any putty at this stage. Before being painted (only the glazing is painted to match the external walls of the house) to seal the putty, it had been skinning for 2 weeks. It's my first ever full restoration and glazing experience and I made a bunch of mistakes. Despite that. It has been a wonderful and zen-like experience. For the wrinkling....Help! 😀
Hi Anet, I wish I could be more helpful as it sounds like you put a lot of love and hard work into this project. My recommendation is to check suggestions for that brand of Sarco Putty. In theory, if and when the work failed, you could use the Linseed Oil Putty slurry idea but you would have to paint with Linseed Oil Paint on top to seal properly and it really would only be a bandaid solution. The modern coatings/putty would probably continue to pull away from the glass or frame potentially. It may also look wrinkled but hold up well for a decent amount of time. So hard to know. Sry! If you ever do more window restoration, consider the simpler Swedish Windowcraft products and methods.
Metal window sashes are treated the same way as a wood sash. You do not need the shellac coating on the rebate. The Iron Oxide Minium linseed oil paint is the old metal primer used on exposed metal. Apply the linseed oil putty and paint over with linseed oil paint right away. Remove any loose old glazing compound and follow the steps in this video. If you have mildew, carbon buildup etc, clean with the linseed oil soap first. Make sure the surface us dry and clean.
Generally speaking, it is safe to say an oil-based paint/stain available at any American hardware store is going to be petrochemical oil-based. It may have a little linseed oil in it possibly and that would be listed on the SDS sheet but it may be a very small percentage. It is probably safest to stick to brands primarily coming from Europe/Scandinavia that specialize in "traditional" linseed oil paints and stains that share details on their formulation. Even in that realm there is a fair amount of difference i.e. some brands use chemically treated linseed oil or natural or synthetic driers, etc. We do our best to do the research and learn as much about the materials we work with as possible but confirming formulation is often not straightforward for the consumer. A long answer to a seemingly simple question but hopefully helpful!
![Window Restoration w/The Silent Paint Remover: Part 1 [Full]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OXIauqrMCWU/mqdefault.jpg)
Straight forward and easy to follow. 10/10 .
''Syrup- like consistensy'' sounds better than ''Baby Poop'' that i use.
A bit delayed on my response! Yes, it is all about the right wording ; ) Very funny and glad you enjoyed the video!
So I have steel framed windows that were glazed forever ago before i purchased my building, and prolly when it was built.After purchasing and remodeling I spayed painted the window frame and glazing and it looked new, recently from a bad hailstorm and heat here in west texas, some is cracked or small pieces broken off, would I still be able to use this same technique? Since the paint was enamel BLESSINGS
Thank you for posting and sharing your talents.
Nice job keeping up traditions. Thank you.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Awesome info! So I have a TON of cedar siding to protect and I'm thinking of using linseed paint. So do I need to make sure to use linseed putty....the paint won't work with regular putty? What about caulk? Will linseed paint work to paint good flexible caulk like a silicone caulk?
I want to use linseed paint but scared it won't last a real long time. I know it's easier to reapply since it doesn't peel/crack....which is great....but I'm hearing I'd probably have to deal with the color being badly faded and having to reapply, after just a few years.
Do you have any thoughts about it?
Linseed oil paint is made from purified linseed oil, oxide pigment, zinc white and chalk. This will outlast any type of paint that is made from Petrochemical oil ( Acrylic, Alkyd and Latex). Use linseed oil putty and paint over right away. Never use any silicone putty or other petrochemical oil based fillers as they will not last and is not compatible with real linseed oil based material. New Cedar siding should a primer first that you make by mixing 30% Ottosson linseed oil paint to 70% of our purified raw linseed oil. Do not use the primer if you are
painting over old but still adhering paint.
@@erikeriksson4119 my main reason for asking if linseed paint will bond well to silicone caulk is because I'll be painting siding and while I'm scraping all the old paint off, I do not want to try to remove the old silicone (which is bonded very well)....I'd rather just paint over it. Any new sealing that needs to be done I'd use linseed putty....but I'm worried about the old stuff I'd need to paint over.
@@stephenwhite5444 Sorry for the delay on getting to your question here. While we do try our best to talk folks out of using modern caulk/filler/epoxy products, Linseed Oil Paint does usually adhere to many of these product once they are fully cured. Since what you are dealing with is old, it is probably fine. I would do a little spot test to confirm the Linseed Oil Paint goes on nicely (there are so many different types of products that have been used over the years) before you jump into the entire project - just to be on the safe side. The biggest factor is that those modern products may be weak points that trap moisture over time. The Linseed Oil Paint should allow that moisture to breath out around these spots at least. Does that make sense?
Extremely well explained.
I just started the process of restoring windows in my house from 1939. I can already tell the difference in a previous putty fix. the more recent putty did not stick well and comes off really easy as if it did not stick at all to the wood and is still kind of rubbery. The last paint job was in the 80's before storm windows were put over top of the older windows. your tips are very helpful thank you!!
Glad to hear the video was helpful as you dive into your own window restoration project. Windows are challenging with a complex set of restoration steps. Be kind to yourself as you get started and know your first window will be the least beautiful, but your last will show all the skill you have taught yourself.
Good luck!
This would be my dream job, awesome tips!
Great to hear!
you might not be saying after youve been doing it for 20 plus years
What if it was glazed with linseed and soybean Sarco type M putty and painted with exterior acrylic (no primer as per Sarco recommendations)after 2 weeks despite some wrinkling? Can the syrup remedy help? The rabbets were stained with oil base stain and were to receive one coat of spar urethane before glazing( I'm afraid it wasn't 😔 done). The windows are 104 years old and were stripped down to the gorgeous wood and repairs, including clamping and fabricating missing parts (badly damaged and rotten off) were made. I would hate to risk removing any putty at this stage. Before being painted (only the glazing is painted to match the external walls of the house) to seal the putty, it had been skinning for 2 weeks. It's my first ever full restoration and glazing experience and I made a bunch of mistakes. Despite that. It has been a wonderful and zen-like experience. For the wrinkling....Help! 😀
Hi Anet, I wish I could be more helpful as it sounds like you put a lot of love and hard work into this project. My recommendation is to check suggestions for that brand of Sarco Putty. In theory, if and when the work failed, you could use the Linseed Oil Putty slurry idea but you would have to paint with Linseed Oil Paint on top to seal properly and it really would only be a bandaid solution. The modern coatings/putty would probably continue to pull away from the glass or frame potentially. It may also look wrinkled but hold up well for a decent amount of time. So hard to know. Sry! If you ever do more window restoration, consider the simpler Swedish Windowcraft products and methods.
thanks, really appreciate these tips / info
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Reach out to info@earthandflax.com if you have additional questions.
I was looking at using Mn to might Allback blo paint… now I am not sure anymore. The drying in time in colder weather is a bit of an issue..
Metal window sashes are treated the same way as a wood sash. You do not need the shellac coating on the rebate. The Iron Oxide Minium linseed oil
paint is the old metal primer used on exposed metal. Apply the linseed oil putty and paint over with linseed oil paint right away.
Remove any loose old glazing compound and follow the steps in this video. If you have mildew, carbon buildup etc, clean with the linseed oil soap first.
Make sure the surface us dry and clean.
Love it
i normally add boiled linseed oil to it to help it dry quicker seems to work best without effecting it.
How can a person know if an oil based paint is made with linseed oil or if it is made with a different oil?
Generally speaking, it is safe to say an oil-based paint/stain available at any American hardware store is going to be petrochemical oil-based. It may have a little linseed oil in it possibly and that would be listed on the SDS sheet but it may be a very small percentage. It is probably safest to stick to brands primarily coming from Europe/Scandinavia that specialize in "traditional" linseed oil paints and stains that share details on their formulation. Even in that realm there is a fair amount of difference i.e. some brands use chemically treated linseed oil or natural or synthetic driers, etc. We do our best to do the research and learn as much about the materials we work with as possible but confirming formulation is often not straightforward for the consumer. A long answer to a seemingly simple question but hopefully helpful!
I love her
How much are the wages of workers who work in installing glass?
Thanks for your question. I really don't have any data on that so cannot offer any helpful information.
@@Earthandflaxstudio where are you?
@@يوسف-و9ب4م This video is from the Haldeman Mansion in central Pennsylvania.
Why does she call it Linsee Royal putty?
Do you mean Linseed Oil Putty? It is a combination of purified/degummed linseed oil and various sized chalk.