I wanted to paint our stairs in white, did a couple of tests with linseed oil paste and boiled as well as sun-thickened linseed oil, but the issue I kept having is the yellowing of the white paint. It's not massive with these cleaned linseed oils, but it is noticeable with white paint. Doing some (or rather more) research found that this is a recurring problem with linseed oil based paints. I love linseed oil, I even pressed my own, washed it and cleaned it and bleached it in the sun (thickened). I haven't found a way to process is, so it doesn't yellow. Do you have a professional solution for that, or do we just have to live with this attribute of linseed oil based paints?
Yes, linseed oil can definitely yellow with time if there is no natural light. A linseed oil painted white staircase that is exposed to natural light should really not yellow in any substantial way but if it is a dark stairwell with no windows, etc. that can be expected to yellow. As you point out, this is only a factor for white pigments. Many white modern coatings will eventually yellow as well over time as the stabilizers breakdown (seen most quickly I’ve found in glues/adhesives/sealers). Since it sounds like you are making your own oils/paints, which is very cool, you can probably experiment with the type of white pigments/zinc you use if you are seeing yellowing occur in a sunny space. Another trick is to add just a little bit of a darker pigment to offset any natural yellowing that can occur, creating a small difference in the white shade that would not be very obvious to the human eye. I just did trim in a walk-in closet (no windows) and added a little gray paint to my Ottosson White Cream to prevent yellowing in that space. Hope this is helpful and offers some ideas as you experiment. Reach out if you have any additional questions!
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks, that is a good idea. So far I've used titanium white pigment based paste, which had 10% zinc. Maybe I could offset the yellowing, by adding the tiniest bit of a blue pigment, that is complementary to the yellowing color, to truly get rid of the yellowed color. Mh... I'll experiment :D - Thanks again.
Linseed oil will always yellow, painters will use poppyseed oil to avoid this with their paint. Poppyseed oil is much more expensive, however it's the best oil to use for bright colors that one doesn't want to yellow over time.
The upper portion is painted drywall and the bottom portion is wood paneling or wainscoting. The wood filler would be for imperfections in the wood paneling before painting. Hope this is helpful.
We tried to get a few good close-ups but checked the walk-through video where we discuss all the finishes for this room. See link below. All standard Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint colors will achieve a semi-gloss finish that will matte out over time. We do have a few matte interior options for drywall/plaster walls as well. Hope this is helpful. ua-cam.com/video/IMZQ4osTnZY/v-deo.htmlsi=PPUt7ecf75bp9qJU
We haven't seen any trends here in the USA to show interaction or premature failure problems with the combo over the last 5-6 years we've been importing both. What has been your experience so far?
Hello, how are you? I hope you are well. My name is Jamal and I live in Morocco. I have more than eight years of experience. I work in the field of wood paints and wood dyeing. If you have a job opportunity, I am looking for it. I wish you a happy day.
![Custom Linseed Oil Stain on Wood Bath Caddy Project [FULL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NuiqRSSRsbA/mqdefault.jpg)
Beautiful Natalie!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed!!!
Great info! Thx for sharing !!
Great to hear! Thank you for watching.
I wanted to paint our stairs in white, did a couple of tests with linseed oil paste and boiled as well as sun-thickened linseed oil, but the issue I kept having is the yellowing of the white paint. It's not massive with these cleaned linseed oils, but it is noticeable with white paint. Doing some (or rather more) research found that this is a recurring problem with linseed oil based paints. I love linseed oil, I even pressed my own, washed it and cleaned it and bleached it in the sun (thickened). I haven't found a way to process is, so it doesn't yellow. Do you have a professional solution for that, or do we just have to live with this attribute of linseed oil based paints?
Yes, linseed oil can definitely yellow with time if there is no natural light. A linseed oil painted white staircase that is exposed to natural light should really not yellow in any substantial way but if it is a dark stairwell with no windows, etc. that can be expected to yellow. As you point out, this is only a factor for white pigments. Many white modern coatings will eventually yellow as well over time as the stabilizers breakdown (seen most quickly I’ve found in glues/adhesives/sealers). Since it sounds like you are making your own oils/paints, which is very cool, you can probably experiment with the type of white pigments/zinc you use if you are seeing yellowing occur in a sunny space.
Another trick is to add just a little bit of a darker pigment to offset any natural yellowing that can occur, creating a small difference in the white shade that would not be very obvious to the human eye. I just did trim in a walk-in closet (no windows) and added a little gray paint to my Ottosson White Cream to prevent yellowing in that space. Hope this is helpful and offers some ideas as you experiment. Reach out if you have any additional questions!
@@Earthandflaxstudio Thanks, that is a good idea. So far I've used titanium white pigment based paste, which had 10% zinc. Maybe I could offset the yellowing, by adding the tiniest bit of a blue pigment, that is complementary to the yellowing color, to truly get rid of the yellowed color. Mh... I'll experiment :D - Thanks again.
Linseed oil will always yellow, painters will use poppyseed oil to avoid this with their paint. Poppyseed oil is much more expensive, however it's the best oil to use for bright colors that one doesn't want to yellow over time.
Nice clear explanation. I have Emailed you about some outdoor application questions.
Did you just fill drywall with woodfiller? Is that a painted wood wall?
The upper portion is painted drywall and the bottom portion is wood paneling or wainscoting. The wood filler would be for imperfections in the wood paneling before painting. Hope this is helpful.
Would be nice if you showed the end result!!! I can’t see the finish - Matt, satin, etc.
We tried to get a few good close-ups but checked the walk-through video where we discuss all the finishes for this room. See link below. All standard Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint colors will achieve a semi-gloss finish that will matte out over time. We do have a few matte interior options for drywall/plaster walls as well. Hope this is helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/IMZQ4osTnZY/v-deo.htmlsi=PPUt7ecf75bp9qJU
Yeah... this dog don't hunt.
Have you had any problems with Ottoson Linseed oil paint and Danalim Linseedoil putty?
We haven't seen any trends here in the USA to show interaction or premature failure problems with the combo over the last 5-6 years we've been importing both. What has been your experience so far?
Don't open the can with a screwdriver! It bends and makes the lid harder to close. Use something with a larger surface against the lid edge.
Hello, how are you? I hope you are well. My name is Jamal and I live in Morocco. I have more than eight years of experience. I work in the field of wood paints and wood dyeing. If you have a job opportunity, I am looking for it. I wish you a happy day.