Thanks for the useful input - there is a lot of misunderstandings around when it comes to resolution. I wanted to point out that, depending on the lasers output power and on the material you will have different dot sizes (bigger than your laser point measurements). That is because the material burns away and the burning increases the dot size. So i changed from 254 dpi to around 220 dpi when engraving plywood (just a an example), but you will have to find out whats working on your machine with an intervall test.
Yes the spot size of the laser generally doesn’t change for most lasers, but if the power is high, the hole it burns can certainly be bigger. The AlgoLaser Delta poses some interesting challenges because the spot size actually can change as a result of a technical improvement unique to the Delta. Since the spot size can change with power, I really need to talk to them to ask what happens when using grayscale where the power varies constantly.
I love this! Thanks Steve! I've also heard that engraving across the grain (so grain is vertical) helps some too. Obviously this doesn't really apply to MDF but if you're engraving wood it could help. I haven't tried this yet so I'm just going off secondhand information.
Is this a high-power laser like an ND-YAG laser? This is a pretty odd wavelength for typical hobby lasers. Unless you have useable glasses with the laser, then shop on Amazon for glasses with an OD 6 rating in a band that covers that wavelength. I did a video on glasses recently, so take a look in the channel video backlog and watch that one to get a bit more information.
That works fantastic on about 10% of pictures that have correct exposure, but that leaves 90% where you will need to go in and play with contrast and gamma to get even a reasonable engraved image, as you say most people will be happy with these results, it becomes really noticeable that an image needs more work wen you are doing images on materials like tiles and that could be another (very long) video.
Yes, bad exposure is bad exposure, but if you get the photo adjusted in a photo tool to look good on your screen, it will look good on your laser too. I wouldn't use Lightburn to adjust this, but rather a photo editing tool and get it right to your own eye first. No process for a laser is going to improve a bad photo. However, for minor improvements, you can do a couple of things. First, to brighten up an engraving, you can either reduce the lines per inch or you can speed up the laser a bit. In the worst case, you can definitely adjust the brightness and contrast.
The best settings I've discovered for engraving photos on birch with a ThunderBolt 30W CO2 laser: Speed: 300 Max Power: 30 Min Power: 7 LPI: 254 (2 passes if engraving on thicker plywood)
The LPI setting is pretty high for a CO2 laser since the beam is probably 0.2-0.3mms square. This means you are likely overlapping lines by 50% and losing some resolution. Have you tried an LPI of ~128? You can increase the power a bit if you just want the image to be darker It is common to assume that a darker image has better resolution, but it can be tricky.
This is definitely true, though MDF doesn't have grain, and the plywood piece I used was just a scrap, so I wasn't too concerned about making something production-grade.
This was the Xtool S1. For project videos I tend to use whatever laser is sitting on my workbench, which is a good indication that the specific laser usually doesn’t matter.
While your correct that the DPI (or the line) has to be set correctly, you are telling people that that is all they need to do. You started with a photo that was perfect for engraving already. Most people are going to be using ether their own photos or images from the net that are far from perfect. You absolutely DO need to adjust brightness and contrast FIRST if you expect to get a good image. You should be adjusting the image to compensate for DPI errors, of course, but you DO have to get the image RIGHT first. And you really should have an image that has SLIGHTLY MORE contrast than you would want for monitor viewing.
On the contrary, I started with an arbitrary image I downloaded with no bias on it being perfect for engraving. I’m not suggesting the you never have to touch the image, but I am pointing out that image adjustment should be your last effort rather than the first. Virtually all photos I ever engrave, regardless of source, are untouched because the power settings and interval on the laser can do amazing things with almost no effort.
Thanks, Steve, once again I learned something new
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the video. I haven't been happy with my photo engraving result. Now your tips help me understand what the problem might me. Thanks so much
You're very welcome!
Just the info I needed. Thanks
Any time! Thanks Tracy.😀
Wonderful, thank you for sharing. Stay safe,wai, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
I'm it was useful
Thanks for the useful input - there is a lot of misunderstandings around when it comes to resolution. I wanted to point out that, depending on the lasers output power and on the material you will have different dot sizes (bigger than your laser point measurements). That is because the material burns away and the burning increases the dot size. So i changed from 254 dpi to around 220 dpi when engraving plywood (just a an example), but you will have to find out whats working on your machine with an intervall test.
Yes the spot size of the laser generally doesn’t change for most lasers, but if the power is high, the hole it burns can certainly be bigger.
The AlgoLaser Delta poses some interesting challenges because the spot size actually can change as a result of a technical improvement unique to the Delta. Since the spot size can change with power, I really need to talk to them to ask what happens when using grayscale where the power varies constantly.
What machine are you using to do this?
best tutorial of all. I watched all 4 channels of "4 brothers", but this channel is superb.
Thanks for supporting all of us
Thank you, Steve. I'm going to try this
Let me know how it works out.
Thanks, Steve. That was some great information!
Glad it was helpful!
I love this! Thanks Steve! I've also heard that engraving across the grain (so grain is vertical) helps some too. Obviously this doesn't really apply to MDF but if you're engraving wood it could help. I haven't tried this yet so I'm just going off secondhand information.
Engraving on vertical grain provides some improvement but it is minimal in my experience. It’s wood and you just have to live with grain 😁
Thank you,great tip 👍
Glad it was helpful!
i have a question i have a laser that has a power of 532mm what sort of saftey goggles do i need if you know (its a handheld 303 laser)
Is this a high-power laser like an ND-YAG laser? This is a pretty odd wavelength for typical hobby lasers.
Unless you have useable glasses with the laser, then shop on Amazon for glasses with an OD 6 rating in a band that covers that wavelength. I did a video on glasses recently, so take a look in the channel video backlog and watch that one to get a bit more information.
Thanks for this video. It was a great help.
Glad it helped!
Thank you. I've been trying for weeks adjusting the image and I couldn't get it over single time
Generally, the the original looks fine, then start with laser settings first and adjust the actual image at the end
Thank you Steve... That was great!
Glad you enjoyed it
Another great and very educational video.
Glad you think so!
great explanation! thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you for this very great tip
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the information.
Any time!
great video thanks for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
loved this video THANKS
You are so welcome!
That works fantastic on about 10% of pictures that have correct exposure, but that leaves 90% where you will need to go in and play with contrast and gamma to get even a reasonable engraved image, as you say most people will be happy with these results, it becomes really noticeable that an image needs more work wen you are doing images on materials like tiles and that could be another (very long) video.
Yes, bad exposure is bad exposure, but if you get the photo adjusted in a photo tool to look good on your screen, it will look good on your laser too. I wouldn't use Lightburn to adjust this, but rather a photo editing tool and get it right to your own eye first. No process for a laser is going to improve a bad photo.
However, for minor improvements, you can do a couple of things. First, to brighten up an engraving, you can either reduce the lines per inch or you can speed up the laser a bit. In the worst case, you can definitely adjust the brightness and contrast.
@@SteveMakesEverything I agree 100%
The best settings I've discovered for engraving photos on birch with a ThunderBolt 30W CO2 laser:
Speed: 300
Max Power: 30
Min Power: 7
LPI: 254
(2 passes if engraving on thicker plywood)
The LPI setting is pretty high for a CO2 laser since the beam is probably 0.2-0.3mms square. This means you are likely overlapping lines by 50% and losing some resolution. Have you tried an LPI of ~128? You can increase the power a bit if you just want the image to be darker
It is common to assume that a darker image has better resolution, but it can be tricky.
Thanks Steve!
You're welcome
thanks! 👍
Hopefully you can put this to good use
Hi Steve, I'd love to see a video of a thumbnail image on a metal business card using the F1!
Great suggestion! I'll add it to my list.
How long did the final result take?
It was engraved in 8-10 minutes.
Engraving at 90 degrees to the wood grain gives significantly sharper results
This is definitely true, though MDF doesn't have grain, and the plywood piece I used was just a scrap, so I wasn't too concerned about making something production-grade.
What laser did you do this project with?
This was the Xtool S1. For project videos I tend to use whatever laser is sitting on my workbench, which is a good indication that the specific laser usually doesn’t matter.
good recommendations.. just need me a laser now. lol
Well if you don't win the Acmer giveaway, you can take a look at the many lasers I have reviewed here😉
Yea I will
While your correct that the DPI (or the line) has to be set correctly, you are telling people that that is all they need to do. You started with a photo that was perfect for engraving already. Most people are going to be using ether their own photos or images from the net that are far from perfect. You absolutely DO need to adjust brightness and contrast FIRST if you expect to get a good image. You should be adjusting the image to compensate for DPI errors, of course, but you DO have to get the image RIGHT first. And you really should have an image that has SLIGHTLY MORE contrast than you would want for monitor viewing.
On the contrary, I started with an arbitrary image I downloaded with no bias on it being perfect for engraving. I’m not suggesting the you never have to touch the image, but I am pointing out that image adjustment should be your last effort rather than the first. Virtually all photos I ever engrave, regardless of source, are untouched because the power settings and interval on the laser can do amazing things with almost no effort.