If you got something from this review and decide you deserve an Accu-Cut, we'd greatly appreciate if you used our affiliate link! Thanks for your support 🙂 Link to Kreg Accu-Cut XL: amzn.to/3O1ImcG
Mason Dixon Acres: Thanks a million! I've researched this tool before viewing your video. I'm sold....I plan to build cabinets for my garage and I need to rip 8 foot boards and then I'll use the table saw for fine tuning. I use to work in television and I must say your presentation was spot on. Very organized with great cut-a-ways. Well done sir! Thanks again
Hello! Thanks for posting this review! A few observations as I recently purchased and set up the Kreg Accu-Cut: 1) The screws in the base-plate clamps are not supposed to be over-tightened which is likely the reason why the back of the saw was sticking up (reference step 3 of the setup instructions). It is also possible that your circular saw has an angled leading edge, so if you didn’t properly set the filler strip (F), tightening the set screws (H) could have caused the back of the saw to be elevated. 2) from the video, it doesn’t appear that step 4 was properly followed; the guide strip is literally supposed to get cut on the very first run with the saw (it’s only a one-time process); this is probably why you had an issue with chipping. 3) Step 5 explains the proper set up, use and purpose of the indicator clip (M); it should be placed in the sled (G) over the rail grove furthest away from the blade. 4) The proper adjustment of the indexing stop (J) will ensure that you can attach the sled assembly to your saw in the same exact way each time without having to worry about adjustments, assuming you still have the same saw you used with it first.
Great review! You're the first I've commented on, because I believe you have the better breakdown and use of the Kreg Accu-Cut better than the other videos I've watch. No need for me to go further. Thanks for helping this old dog learn a new trick. By the way... I subscribed.
Thank you for posting the video of Kreg Accu-Cut XL kit. I had questions concerns about the assemble and accuracy of this product. You gave great insight with your demonstrations.
This is the video on the Kreg Accu-Cut I should have watched first. I have not made a purchase yet, so I did not watch it too late. Unlike my comment, Your video and instructions were succinct and useful. Thank-You for making this very informative and to the point video.
Brother, I've looked at these for over a year wondering....on the road right now, but I'll be at Lowe's tomorrow buying one. Really good review and very appreciated 👍 👏!
Glad it was helpful! There is a sale on Amazon right now for $20 off. Lowe’s might have the same sale but definitely check 🙂 If you go the Amazon route, we’d appreciate if you used our affiliate link- it supports our channel! Thanks!
I ADORED your video! I'm trying to make up my mind if I should get one of those tracks or not and your video just gave me all the answers to the doubts I had. Thanks a lot!
I've gotten by with the tried and true clamped level, but can never seem to get it dead on. Positioning this thing is a breeze and is so much more accurate
Thank you for this! I’m a complete newbie, so I need all the help I can get. First time using a circular saw and I couldn’t get my Dewalt to sit right either. I tightened, loosened, flipped the plate, nothing helped. I was already scared enough of the saw, without starting out with an issue. I knew it said not all saws work with the Kreg. I couldn’t find any info on how to fix it (other than one guy that made something with his 3D printer) so, I traded in the Dewalt for a Skil saw. That one fits completely flush. Good to know it wouldn’t have caused me to lose a finger, or worse, but at least I’m not as terrified anymore. Lol
I have seen similar tracks that have the clamp as well, with this I have found (at least when cutting on flat surfaces) the grip strips prevent the need for clamping. However if you were ever cutting vertically you would of course need clamps, I've seen some people use track saws to cut door bottoms while in place
Awesome review.c I made the mistake of buying the Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide. I was skeptical on this but your review helped me make up my mind. Go Hoosiers!
Yep that’s set up correctly, the sled still hangs off the back a bit since the only set screws holding it on are at the front. It doesn’t affect how well it cuts
Very good review. You explained everything very well and your close ups were sharp. I have only one question. How is the track secured to the material being cut ? What keeps it from moving off line ? Thanks
Check out some of the videos out there about making the kreg more accurate, i think you would like that. Most peoples issue is the fit of the sled on the rails, it doesnt fit precisely and lets the saw/blade wobble as they go down the track, causing a (slightly) wavy cut, and not staying true to the (zero clearance) strip.
Personally I'd buy the Wen plunge saw and the makita track. I'll pay about twice the price of the kreg track but the performance of the Wen is well worth the price.
This is a great video! I'm just setting up my accu-cut now and I got the fear just in case I made an error. This was the reassurance I needed so cheers from the UK 🇬🇧🍻
Probably because you naturally aren't pushing super steadily until you get into the cut a bit, so the saw moves side-to-side a bit more in the first part of the wear strip
4:19 into the video we see a problem with the fit of the shoe to the saw. I just got my XL and noticed the very same thing. I am also using a Dewalt DCS391 20 v saw. The cure for this problem is as simple as using a .125 (1/8") diameter rod to fill in the front of the shoe where that angular void meets the shoe. The rod fits up against the plastic shoe face beneath the saw shoe They have that plastic piece that you can flip over that's supposed to take care of that but unfortunately noting is truly universal. Mine fits nice and flat with the screws tightened down and everything goes down the track a whole lot better.
Yep you can use it as the 48” by itself. In fact if you have a regular accucut, kreg sells just the “expansion pack” to make it an XL. Just the extra track and hardware.
@@MasonDixonAcres I'd been assuming this was the case, but then again, in the reality of either breaking down or making finish cuts, I would kinda hate to have to pause and fiddle with the joining/unjoining of the track sections - plus it seems like this would put a lot of wear (and slight deformation on aluminum?) from that process - so I'm thinking if I went with the Kreg, I'd want a dedicated crosscut fence AND a 100" version.
Haha gotta use it before you can review it! If you mean the standard AccuCut, it'll do 50" cuts which would at least get you the short way on a sheet of plywood. I've found the extra length of the XL is totally worth it, my panel layouts are never good enough to avoid the long cuts. -Alex
I like it, small, light, and good for any general work. I want to get their 7 1/4 saw for the times you need something a little more powerful, but in most cases I will just use my corded 7 1/4 -Alex
Thanks for sharing! It looks like when comparing the sizes you cut it was very slightly off? Ours is the same. Was that a problem when assembly the cabinets?
They might have been off by a 32nd or two, but that's because they were all measured/marked separately (by eye).. so I suppose that is chalked up to operator error. No issues for cabinet assembly, well within the tolerance range for general cabinetry.
Gravity (friction). The wood is sitting on a full piece of foam so it doesn’t slide, and the track has got anti slip material on the bottom in combination with a small “foot” on the starting block that hooks on the edge of the panel so the track does not move forward during cut.
I want to get a budget circular saw dedicated for this tool so I don’t need to detach the circular saw. Do you think that’s a good idea? Something like Ryobi P508? Any affordable battery operated circular saw you recommend?
The sled has a stop block so your saw sits in the same spot every time you take it off and put it back on. If you want to get a dedicated saw no one's gonna stop you, but there's not a good reason to do so. After that first time doing the initial setup, it takes maybe 15-30 seconds to attach the sled to the saw each time.
It's because the sled is only fastened to the front of the saw baseblate. Once it sits down gravity keeps it together and it doesn't seem to hurt cutting performance.
Great review! I'm looking at getting the Accu-Cut XL along with a few clamps. I only have a couple concerns; 1) I have seen a few videos on the saw sled in regards to being a little sloppy but, was corrected by using 1/8" strips of tape on the sleds sides. Have you had any issues with this? 2) I see that the guide strips cost $10.00 per section. My concern is that it could really add up if replacement is necessary. For 8' it would be $40.00...... Ouch 🤨 Have you had any issues with your strips other than at your starting point? Thanks again for your review. Your cabinets look really nice..... Great job! 👍😊
I have heard about that tape trick, haven’t had to use it yet but good to have that in the back pocket. I never looked into replacement strips but dang that is expensive. Mine have been fine, once they are worn out you can swap the starting block to the other side and at least double the existing life. I noticed you’ll only see blue flakes mixed with your sawdust if the saw gets slightly off-kilter mid-cut. This would probably be helped with the tape trick. I’m not convinced they do a ton to help tear out anyway, so even if they get worn I probably wouldn’t replace.
Thank you for the great information! Very true, didn't think of that...... swap sides for double life. Looking forward to this tool. As far as the strips, I'm thing the same. I plan on using the clamps for the most part anyway. Thanks again for the great review! Good job!! 👍😊
Yes. It will do whatever your circular saw will cut. You have to get creative to rip down something smaller than 3” or so since the track needs something to sit on
The straight edge is the track itself, the grippy bottom and foot at the start keep it from slipping on the surface of whatever you’re cutting. So you can line it up however you need, I even did angled cuts for the fronts of corner cabinets
In theory the little gray tapered spacer under the saw's leading edge is supposed to fill in the gap so the baseplate can't be pushed down by the set screw, but maybe there still is some gap that allows the base lift. I'll give it a try
Haha it's on the list! I have video from the day I got it, just need to edit. It's in rougher shape than I originally could tell when I looked at it.. so it will be an interesting ownership experience lol
I bought this a few years ago and i think it's a total waste of money. I have never been able to get it to cut straight. I even broke it out again after being frustrated with it for so long to cut some plywood and it bowed out by over an inch in the middle of its length. Dont bother with this tool. I like other Kreg stuff like the pocket hole jig but this is money best saved on getting a real track saw.
Kreg's system looks a little ropey. You had good results, but I wonder what happens after 500 hours of operation. There are cheap track saw kits out there that look more robust than Kreg's. I usually like a lot of what they do, but this looks to me like a misfire.
I honestly don’t think the plunge means anything. I’m old school. I learned by clamping a steel L channel to the wood or snap a line and have a lean eye and run it through a jointer run a portable jointer over it if needed. Track saw?? Ehhh.. that’s just foo foo bells and whistles
But but , your cuts were not true 90 degree and that’s the problem with this el cheapo plastic components from Kregg tools. Better use a straight edge and your blade trued square, if am gonna build cabinets professionally I’ll invest in the proper equipment imho.
It sits flat with light pressure, but I followed the instructions included. There's nothing to hold the back end of the saw to the sled, as far as I can tell.
@@MasonDixonAcres did you try to flip the small grey plastic piece that is for angled saw base plates ? It looks like it isn't supporting your saws base properly, and when you tighten the locking screws it is raising the back of the saw up. Maybe a small shim will help ?
Yes it looked to me as though in the beginning when you showed us your saw that the nose was curved up but not by very far actually the front of the plate looked like it was flat So I think what happened is that when you screw the set screws down on the front of the saw it causes the front of the saw to dip down into that gray piece which causes the back to be like that. I've watched a lot of reviews with this accu-cut rig, and yours is the first and only one that I've seen where the base plate looked like that, definitely something wrong with the setup
Something else just occurred to me, in the beginning of your video where you're showing how you attach the guide plate to the sole of your saw I noticed that the clamps are all the way out to the very front and out to the outside edges of the front of the shoe
Sorry I hit the enter button before I was done You might consider moving the locking things to the inside holes which will allow you to pivot them further back on the leading edge of the soul This might keep your nose from dipping down like that as the pinch point would be more towards the flat surface of the sole as opposed on to that curved nose
Actually I noticed that your review was just a tool promotion. Yu missed the actual how-to of the exercise. tood bad; because you started with good coments.
If you got something from this review and decide you deserve an Accu-Cut, we'd greatly appreciate if you used our affiliate link! Thanks for your support 🙂
Link to Kreg Accu-Cut XL: amzn.to/3O1ImcG
Mason Dixon Acres: Thanks a million! I've researched this tool before viewing your video. I'm sold....I plan to build cabinets for my garage and I need to rip 8 foot boards and then I'll use the table saw for fine tuning. I use to work in television and I must say your presentation was spot on. Very organized with great cut-a-ways. Well done sir! Thanks again
Glad it helped! After 2+ years with it I still love it.
Hello! Thanks for posting this review! A few observations as I recently purchased and set up the Kreg Accu-Cut:
1) The screws in the base-plate clamps are not supposed to be over-tightened which is likely the reason why the back of the saw was sticking up (reference step 3 of the setup instructions). It is also possible that your circular saw has an angled leading edge, so if you didn’t properly set the filler strip (F), tightening the set screws (H) could have caused the back of the saw to be elevated. 2) from the video, it doesn’t appear that step 4 was properly followed; the guide strip is literally supposed to get cut on the very first run with the saw (it’s only a one-time process); this is probably why you had an issue with chipping. 3) Step 5 explains the proper set up, use and purpose of the indicator clip (M); it should be placed in the sled (G) over the rail grove furthest away from the blade. 4) The proper adjustment of the indexing stop (J) will ensure that you can attach the sled assembly to your saw in the same exact way each time without having to worry about adjustments, assuming you still have the same saw you used with it first.
Thanks for sharing your observations, I'm looking into getting an Accu-cut and these points should really help!
Great review! You're the first I've commented on, because I believe you have the better breakdown and use of the Kreg Accu-Cut better than the other videos I've watch. No need for me to go further. Thanks for helping this old dog learn a new trick. By the way... I subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for posting the video of Kreg Accu-Cut XL kit. I had questions concerns about the assemble and accuracy of this product. You gave great insight with your demonstrations.
Thank you! I found your review more helpful - particularly as you showed up close videos of the different components of the system! 👌
Much appreciated!
-Alex
This is the video on the Kreg Accu-Cut I should have watched first. I have not made a purchase yet, so I did not watch it too late. Unlike my comment, Your video and instructions were succinct and useful. Thank-You for making this very informative and to the point video.
Much appreciated! Glad you got some use out of it!
Brother, I've looked at these for over a year wondering....on the road right now, but I'll be at Lowe's tomorrow buying one. Really good review and very appreciated 👍 👏!
Glad it was helpful! There is a sale on Amazon right now for $20 off. Lowe’s might have the same sale but definitely check 🙂 If you go the Amazon route, we’d appreciate if you used our affiliate link- it supports our channel! Thanks!
I ADORED your video! I'm trying to make up my mind if I should get one of those tracks or not and your video just gave me all the answers to the doubts I had. Thanks a lot!
Much appreciated! Glad to help. I should do more of these tool reviews..
-Alex
Good job showing assembly of guide and operation. I've used a straight edge clamp, but this looks much better.
I've gotten by with the tried and true clamped level, but can never seem to get it dead on. Positioning this thing is a breeze and is so much more accurate
I dont use this tool very often but when i need it its great.
Absolutely- when it comes to breaking down sheet stock, this thing is a beast. Not sure what else I would use it for.. maybe weird angle rip cuts.
Thank you for this! I’m a complete newbie, so I need all the help I can get. First time using a circular saw and I couldn’t get my Dewalt to sit right either. I tightened, loosened, flipped the plate, nothing helped. I was already scared enough of the saw, without starting out with an issue. I knew it said not all saws work with the Kreg. I couldn’t find any info on how to fix it (other than one guy that made something with his 3D printer) so, I traded in the Dewalt for a Skil saw. That one fits completely flush. Good to know it wouldn’t have caused me to lose a finger, or worse, but at least I’m not as terrified anymore. Lol
oh that's interesting it sits flatter with a different saw. I just let the weight of the saw keep everything flat when cutting and it works out
Not sure if has been mentioned, but you can also buy clamps that fit in the T slot underneath to lock the track down if you needed to. WEN makes some.
I have seen similar tracks that have the clamp as well, with this I have found (at least when cutting on flat surfaces) the grip strips prevent the need for clamping. However if you were ever cutting vertically you would of course need clamps, I've seen some people use track saws to cut door bottoms while in place
Awesome review.c I made the mistake of buying the Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide. I was skeptical on this but your review helped me make up my mind. Go Hoosiers!
It's been a good tool for me. Glad I could help! haha even with a little Big 10 rivalry! ;)
-Alex
Hey dude, great video! I came here because I have the same saw and had questions. thanks!
Glad I could help! And love the user name hahah
A very good practical review. Thank you 👍😎🇦🇺
Glad it was helpful!
-Alex
was on the fances yours was the first vidio i clicked on thinks for the help ill be ording mine now
Thanks!
Thanks for the review
Great review! Thanks
thxs for sharing just bought one on ebay for making garden planters
Great idea!
there's a plastic insert up at the front of the sled, if you flip it to the angled side your saw will lie flat on the sled
Yep that’s set up correctly, the sled still hangs off the back a bit since the only set screws holding it on are at the front. It doesn’t affect how well it cuts
Thanks. This helped a lot and definitely going to purchase one.
Glad I could help!
I’m sold! Great video
Very good review. You explained everything very well and your close ups were sharp. I have only one question. How is the track secured to the material being cut ? What keeps it from moving off line ? Thanks
Thanks! The starting block has a small foot on it, the rest is friction with a rubber pad under the track
Awesome review thanks for the honest assessment! Keep up the great videos
Thanks for watching!
Check out some of the videos out there about making the kreg more accurate, i think you would like that. Most peoples issue is the fit of the sled on the rails, it doesnt fit precisely and lets the saw/blade wobble as they go down the track, causing a (slightly) wavy cut, and not staying true to the (zero clearance) strip.
Yep I believe some folks add some tape to the guide to tighten up the play!
Personally I'd buy the Wen plunge saw and the makita track. I'll pay about twice the price of the kreg track but the performance of the Wen is well worth the price.
I've never heard of Wen, is that a U.S. brand?
Hey if you have the money and want to spend it go for it, lots of people buy festool 😳
Great video! I'm sold! I also subbed!!
Glad it helped!
Love the review! THANKS
My pleasure!
-Alex
I just bought this Kreg track saw kit and thr rubber strips are installed on my track.
Thanx dude, well done
This is a great video!
I'm just setting up my accu-cut now and I got the fear just in case I made an error.
This was the reassurance I needed so cheers from the UK 🇬🇧🍻
Cheers! Glad it helped 👍🏼
-Alex
Can you make long angled bevel cuts?
Yep!
Great video and review. Wondering why you think the starting point got corrupted for the first foot or so of your edging?
Probably because you naturally aren't pushing super steadily until you get into the cut a bit, so the saw moves side-to-side a bit more in the first part of the wear strip
4:19 into the video we see a problem with the fit of the shoe to the saw. I just got my XL and noticed the very same thing. I am also using a Dewalt DCS391 20 v saw. The cure for this problem is as simple as using a .125 (1/8") diameter rod to fill in the front of the shoe where that angular void meets the shoe. The rod fits up against the plastic shoe face beneath the saw shoe They have that plastic piece that you can flip over that's supposed to take care of that but unfortunately noting is truly universal.
Mine fits nice and flat with the screws tightened down and everything goes down the track a whole lot better.
Thanks for the tip!
i was looking online to see if the DCS391 will fit this, glad to see this comment thank you!
Can this be configured so it could rip a 12 foot sheet?
Can you set the Accu-Cut up as a 48" guide and then assemble all the sections to cut 100 inches??
Yep you can use it as the 48” by itself. In fact if you have a regular accucut, kreg sells just the “expansion pack” to make it an XL. Just the extra track and hardware.
@@MasonDixonAcres I'd been assuming this was the case, but then again, in the reality of either breaking down or making finish cuts, I would kinda hate to have to pause and fiddle with the joining/unjoining of the track sections - plus it seems like this would put a lot of wear (and slight deformation on aluminum?) from that process - so I'm thinking if I went with the Kreg, I'd want a dedicated crosscut fence AND a 100" version.
nice! Regarding the foam board and saw, how deep is the blade into the foam board?
About 1/8”
Perfect for me. I only need it half a dozen times a year. No way I can justify hundreds of dollars for a track saw.
Agreed, unless you are a pro carpenter using it every day it’s tough to shell out $600+ for a dedicated unit
Can you clamp it down or do the clamps get in the way of the saw?
You really don’t need to especially at the start, but yes it would probably get in the way
I have the rip cut. And love it. With that do you think the 55 inch for cross cuts would be long enough?
Also super happy you actually have made 50 plus cuts on it and then gave an opinion on it.
Haha gotta use it before you can review it! If you mean the standard AccuCut, it'll do 50" cuts which would at least get you the short way on a sheet of plywood. I've found the extra length of the XL is totally worth it, my panel layouts are never good enough to avoid the long cuts.
-Alex
How’s that dewalt saw, I have dewalt tools but not this saw yet
I like it, small, light, and good for any general work. I want to get their 7 1/4 saw for the times you need something a little more powerful, but in most cases I will just use my corded 7 1/4
-Alex
I'd move up to a 60 tooth blade is its possible on that size saw to alleviate the splintering.
Good thought, not sure if they make a 60t for a 5 1/2" saw, that's very fine
@@MasonDixonAcres yes, that's a rather small blade. Maybe there's a 40tooth?
Thanks for sharing! It looks like when comparing the sizes you cut it was very slightly off? Ours is the same. Was that a problem when assembly the cabinets?
They might have been off by a 32nd or two, but that's because they were all measured/marked separately (by eye).. so I suppose that is chalked up to operator error. No issues for cabinet assembly, well within the tolerance range for general cabinetry.
thank you.
Would it work with DEWALT 4 1/2” saw?
Hi Alex, may I ask what held your track & wood in place? Did you use any type of clamps? Thanks, Steve
Gravity (friction). The wood is sitting on a full piece of foam so it doesn’t slide, and the track has got anti slip material on the bottom in combination with a small “foot” on the starting block that hooks on the edge of the panel so the track does not move forward during cut.
@@MasonDixonAcres thanks
This looks great, but I'm a bit confused that you don't seem to need to clamp this thing down. The rubber strips are really enough to stabilize it?
They are, surprisingly
@@MasonDixonAcres Do they get slippery once they collect sawdust?
I want to get a budget circular saw dedicated for this tool so I don’t need to detach the circular saw. Do you think that’s a good idea? Something like Ryobi P508? Any affordable battery operated circular saw you recommend?
The sled has a stop block so your saw sits in the same spot every time you take it off and put it back on. If you want to get a dedicated saw no one's gonna stop you, but there's not a good reason to do so. After that first time doing the initial setup, it takes maybe 15-30 seconds to attach the sled to the saw each time.
Yep, i agree with this. I’m on dewalt battery system, I like their saws but haven’t tried others to be honest. I’m sure for DIY anything is fine
@@KlockoFett Great. Thanks for your input!
@@MasonDixonAcres I was also checking out Dewalt products. Thanks for your videos.
Glad you found some use in them!
-Alex
7:26. That’s weird how the saw baseplate is not sitting flush with the Kreg sled
It's because the sled is only fastened to the front of the saw baseblate. Once it sits down gravity keeps it together and it doesn't seem to hurt cutting performance.
I put another piece of wood under the starting block so the saw stays parallel to the track when starting out.
Thanks for the tip!!
Great review! I'm looking at getting the Accu-Cut XL along with a few clamps. I only have a couple concerns;
1) I have seen a few videos on the saw sled in regards to being a little sloppy but, was corrected by using 1/8" strips of tape on the sleds sides. Have you had any issues with this?
2) I see that the guide strips cost $10.00 per section. My concern is that it could really add up if replacement is necessary. For 8' it would be $40.00...... Ouch 🤨 Have you had any issues with your strips other than at your starting point?
Thanks again for your review. Your cabinets look really nice..... Great job! 👍😊
I have heard about that tape trick, haven’t had to use it yet but good to have that in the back pocket. I never looked into replacement strips but dang that is expensive. Mine have been fine, once they are worn out you can swap the starting block to the other side and at least double the existing life. I noticed you’ll only see blue flakes mixed with your sawdust if the saw gets slightly off-kilter mid-cut. This would probably be helped with the tape trick. I’m not convinced they do a ton to help tear out anyway, so even if they get worn I probably wouldn’t replace.
Thank you for the great information! Very true, didn't think of that...... swap sides for double life. Looking forward to this tool. As far as the strips, I'm thing the same. I plan on using the clamps for the most part anyway. Thanks again for the great review! Good job!! 👍😊
Great video! Thanks!
You are welcome!
Good job bro. 👍
Thank ya!
What type of wood u used?
That is birch plywood.
will this do cross and rip cuts?
Yes. It will do whatever your circular saw will cut. You have to get creative to rip down something smaller than 3” or so since the track needs something to sit on
@@MasonDixonAcres awesome thank you so it gets its straight edge from the edge(beginning) of the cut as opposed to the side like the other systems.
The straight edge is the track itself, the grippy bottom and foot at the start keep it from slipping on the surface of whatever you’re cutting. So you can line it up however you need, I even did angled cuts for the fronts of corner cabinets
I wouldn’t about the back not flush with the jig. It’s all about the front
Locate the set screws off the tapered leading edge and your base lift problem should be solved. Nice review.
In theory the little gray tapered spacer under the saw's leading edge is supposed to fill in the gap so the baseplate can't be pushed down by the set screw, but maybe there still is some gap that allows the base lift. I'll give it a try
@@MasonDixonAcres Did it work?
Bought this. Used in cold. Plastic cracked. Buy aluminum milescraft. Better quality and price.
It's not good for cabinet work to sloppy on the track move in both directions 1/8" and the strips on the bottom don't grip.the plywood well.
To each their own. I think this is much easier and more accurate than manhandling a 4x8 sheet on a table saw
Buying it.
Nice! I don’t think you’ll be disappointed
the tool mounting gap gives me an anxiety and OCD
Is the excavator review coming soon?
Haha it's on the list! I have video from the day I got it, just need to edit. It's in rougher shape than I originally could tell when I looked at it.. so it will be an interesting ownership experience lol
I bought this a few years ago and i think it's a total waste of money. I have never been able to get it to cut straight. I even broke it out again after being frustrated with it for so long to cut some plywood and it bowed out by over an inch in the middle of its length. Dont bother with this tool. I like other Kreg stuff like the pocket hole jig but this is money best saved on getting a real track saw.
It's still working great for me years later. Sorry you're having trouble
60t not 40
Kreg's system looks a little ropey. You had good results, but I wonder what happens after 500 hours of operation. There are cheap track saw kits out there that look more robust than Kreg's. I usually like a lot of what they do, but this looks to me like a misfire.
If you plan to need a track saw for 500 hours of use, I would highly recommend buying a dedicated track saw
Go hoosiers
I honestly don’t think the plunge means anything. I’m old school. I learned by clamping a steel L channel to the wood or snap a line and have a lean eye and run it through a jointer run a portable jointer over it if needed. Track saw?? Ehhh.. that’s just foo foo bells and whistles
But but , your cuts were not true 90 degree and that’s the problem with this el cheapo plastic components from Kregg tools. Better use a straight edge and your blade trued square, if am gonna build cabinets professionally I’ll invest in the proper equipment imho.
If you would like to buy a dedicated track saw, by all means go for it
You've got something wrong it should not sit on the plate like that lol
It sits flat with light pressure, but I followed the instructions included. There's nothing to hold the back end of the saw to the sled, as far as I can tell.
@@MasonDixonAcres did you try to flip the small grey plastic piece that is for angled saw base plates ? It looks like it isn't supporting your saws base properly, and when you tighten the locking screws it is raising the back of the saw up. Maybe a small shim will help ?
Yes it looked to me as though in the beginning when you showed us your saw that the nose was curved up but not by very far actually the front of the plate looked like it was flat
So I think what happened is that when you screw the set screws down on the front of the saw it causes the front of the saw to dip down into that gray piece which causes the back to be like that.
I've watched a lot of reviews with this accu-cut rig, and yours is the first and only one that I've seen where the base plate looked like that, definitely something wrong with the setup
Something else just occurred to me, in the beginning of your video where you're showing how you attach the guide plate to the sole of your saw I noticed that the clamps are all the way out to the very front and out to the outside edges of the front of the shoe
Sorry I hit the enter button before I was done
You might consider moving the locking things to the inside holes which will allow you to pivot them further back on the leading edge of the soul
This might keep your nose from dipping down like that as the pinch point would be more towards the flat surface of the sole as opposed on to that curved nose
Actually I noticed that your review was just a tool promotion. Yu missed the actual how-to of the exercise. tood bad; because you started with good coments.
It's not a promotion, I bought the tool and made a video setting it up and my thoughts. I happen to like it
You need 60t blade
Yeah i agree that would help reduce tear out more. Will try that on the next cabinet set
I went with the bora track clamp. Simply because all saw sleds suck.
To each their own, this one works great for me however!