not sure if you guys cares but if you guys are bored like me atm then you can watch all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of days xD
I recommend turn all rounds neck down in your tray put them back upright after charging to keep a more sure track on what's charged and isnt I double charged once and luckily caught it
The powder needs to settle in the hopper. Throw about ten charges to let settle without tapping and then handle the thing like a raw egg, no tapping. This measure is very accurate even though it is cheap. It outruns a lot of other ' premium' powder measures but lyman.
I could kick my own tail for not getting into reloading years ago for no other reason than tailoring hunting loads. Too late now with all the shortages and ungodly high prices. Nice video sir.
@Josh Smith people reload for different reasons. Some do it to save money on a certain caliber round that may be hard to find, some do it to stock up on a round they target shoot or plink with alot, some do it as a hobby,, and some a combination of all these reasons. I personally do not shoot any particular round enuff for reloading to be cost efficient enuff to invest in all the equipment it takes to do it for any of the reasons above. Now, there are people who reload certain rounds that they use for hunting or precision shooting that may even specifically hard to find and to gain performance of that round at different yardages or with different grain or type of projectiles, powders, primers, brass, over all case length, bullet seating depth, head spacing, etc, and so on and so on just to get a different outcome or performance of said round on the target or game animals and even from different barrel lengths or even different guns in the same caliber or chambering. Basically, loading and trying different combinations to get different outcomes. That's what tailoring a round means.
I just saw a video where someone did the math for you. It’s actually still cheaper to buy overpriced reloading crap and make your own ammo right now than buy factory ammo. This also depends on caliber. My advice to you would be don’t start if all you’re planning on reloading is 9mm.
I started handloading shotgun shells when I was 14 years old so that I could have the shells when I need them I did a lot of bird hunting duck hunting now that I am 59 . I have gotten into rifle Reloading for several calibers 308 , 270 , 243, 300 win mag and I am about to start 6.5 Creedmoor and 35 Whelen. I do it because of the cost sufficiency and the performance you can actually get a load that you’re gonna like and put five shots touching for a particular caliber that is picky so glad I can reload for my self !! 🤷🏼♂️
Awesome video. Great tutorial. I use progressive reloaders for pistol ammo but ready to start loading .308 and .223 with a single stage press. Great instructions and tips.
When you drop the powder into the pan hold the tray up tight to the bottom of the drop tube. After you crank the handle lower the pan and Walla, no spilled powder.
Why don't you use a trickler,so you get exactly the same load everytime...imo this is nowwere near any concistancy...thus not going to give a good shooting result. Please correct me if i'm wrong here... All the best from the Netherlands...
Really enjoyed your video, but I still enjoy using Lanolin and Red Liquid Heat mix at 1:10. Takes a couple of seconds to spray on, do a couple of things, and you're ready to go. Not to mention, when doing a thousand a run, saves a ton of time.
I ask that you consider: When you get to the powder loading - build a spreadsheet - weigh each case - throw the powder - weigh the case and powder load - is it perfect????? Under load is disaster, bullet stuck in the barrel, blow up the breach, double load same result....
It's the lee classic. Depends on what you want to do, if you want precise loads go with a single stage or torrent. If you want bulk, go with a progressive.
Yes. Cause you'll find that even with brand new brass itll have deformed case mouths that need to be reformed and cases dont come chamfered so you put that on there to ease the bullet seating.
If you buy premium brass like Lapua tool find there is little to no initial prep necessary, maybe a little chamfer. That's only for the first use though.
Ladies and gentleman, also make sure your space that the press is attached to, that it’s safe and not failing. Like that little crack on the backside of the press might give way if you crank on it but loading rounds you should have to crank on it and cause that to break. Seems super simple. I actually am thinking about starting to reload my own rounds just because
im guessing you have a crimp in that bullet seating die. you should lower the die until it touches the rim of the case then back it off 1 turn. then adjust for bullet seat. so that way you have more of the bullet seat stem to work with.
I know I'm a little late with my comment, but at first I want to thank you for the great video, it's very interesting and shows the process very good! And, I've noticed that your tabletop is cracked where the back screw of the press is located, maybe you didn't predrill before you've put in the screw. I'd recommend fixing it, before it fails, so none of your equipment breaks, or worse! I'm a first time watcher and your latest subscriber. 😁 Keep up the good work
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.😄
I would leave the decapping pin in the sizing die. I always prefer to size my brass after decapping and cleaning so the decapping pin in the sizing die should remove any stuck media.
Question pls. Can you pls tell me the name of the components you r using for the whole process. Stating from the wash station and the other names from the other machines amd tools you used here step by step . I want to star hand reloading my self so your video is very clear but there are so many products outhere they sell as a kit or just Individual and your video seems so clear and explanatory but I wish you would of said the name and model of the machines and tools u got n prices
reloading for a semi-auto i have to work my brass way more than you do. Some brass grows as much as .03" when fired...also gotta work the primer pockets cos sometimes the floor gets deformed n you won't be seating your primer flush...thas a major no-no. With better brass (think Lake City} you need Imperial sizing wax or good luck sizing them. Try reading Glen Zedicker's article "reloading for the M-14" n it'll scare the crap outta ya with all that can go wrong reloading .308 for semis
Hey , I’ve been looking for someone to hook up with . I’ve been saving my brass casings . But I don’t reload so I was wondering if you nor somone would wanna make a deal like I send you the casings and X amount and I purchase it “trade” for loaded ?
Deprime separately first on a generic decapping dye, not the sizing dye. But keep your decapping pin in if you're tumbling to knock out any bits of media that get stuck in the flash hole.
Interesting - the other day I watched a review of the same powder measure, where 10 samples in a row was exact to 1 decimal place, without having to tap etc. Curious why the variation in this case is so much higher, in comparison. Top video though, love it!
@@AlmostPrecisionKinetics Thanks for the response. Years ago I bought a lot of reloading equipment, and never unboxed any of it. I think it's time I got it out and started using it.
This guide is useful but it misses the crucial prior case examination for loose primer pockets/splits/dents or signs of insipient head separation - all of which can cause serious accidents. Furthermore no mention of case length to ensure within prescribed safe max limit. Although it appears to be for full length resizing of cases to fit any 308 It could also cover tailored-fit bullets by measurement of chamber and matching case/bullet length to it.
have you ever load 300 WSM if so what kind of powder brand you prefer, I'm getting ready to load this round and would like as much info especially from a hands on guy like yourself. Thanks for the good video very help full this will be one of my new hobby hope to see more of it.
@@AlmostPrecisionKinetics it's ok I can't find any video on youtube for this load. I guess I will just do some reading and look at the load chat hahah thanks ......
Question pls. Let's say I'm loading .308 ,how do I know how many powder it takes I side the case shell, and also if I have 175 grain bullet and a 150 grain bullet does 175 will need more powder in the case. Main question is how do I know how much powder to add in each load or if I load different grain bullet in reloading .308 . Is that info comes in the one book for reloading
Any reason why you not mesure each load so you know you get the exact same amout of gun powder in each brass? This must make a tighter spread when you shoot? 1 grain up or down menas 2.5% of diffrent amount in the brass and can make huge diffrens at the shooting range? Am i wrong?
You are correct, but it isn't that important for these loads. The spread with the powder measure is less than half a grain and these rounds are getting ran through an AR-10. So to me, it's not critical as this isn't for a precision rifle but for a battle rifle.
You're right...and wrong. IF you're shooting a match grade rifle and are capable of holding hard enough...then yes. One grain in some cases(literally) will make a VERY small noticeable difference. BUT...Most people are not only not capable of not noticing such minor variations considering the normal "spread"...but their rifles are certainly not capable of holding that tight tolerance with repeatability. For most people...loading hunting rounds/plinking rounds...a +/- 1 gr is not worth the time to weigh EVERY charge. The normal spread in velocity due to other factors is usually far beyond a 1 gr difference. Weigh and check every 5-10 rounds just to adjust for the loss of volume in your powder hopper in some brands. My Dillon usually loses 1/4 grain every 10 rounds when throwing large volume loads and when using a long stick rifle powder. If using a ball powder...it's virtually identical from full to empty as it's throwing based on volume and not weight. Use a LEE factory crimp die as well to ensure the bullet is "popping" at a more uniform pressure...which can also mask some small variations in powder charge.
I'd prefer to take the gf's magic wand, more power and all. But either way, it's a great way to build up static in these cheap plastic hoppers with no esd
Here's an idea, because things displace water, how about putting the brass in first, THEN add the cleaning solution, THEN water to the fill line.... Think man...
You are absolutely correct about the scale…no wonder the differing weights each time he threw a load to test. That should NOT be happening…invest in a real scale. You could use a balance scale in order to get a “feel” for that part of the overall process.
Almost Precision your powder measure is not accurate at all, from looking at all the variations of your powder drops, your going to have different points of impact. My recommendation to you is you learn CBTO instead of COAL.
The sizing die has the primer de caping pin so there is zero need to be using a 3rd die to de cap primers. There is reloading roll pads to lubricate then roll the case on the pad then resize the case. I get amazed at the number of video's uploaded by green horns about some subject. The next issue that might happen is for auto loading rifles some rifles need the cases sized in small base dies. You will know this when fired cartridges start not extracting and causing jam ups That is absolute stupid and dangerous to not measure each powder charge and tapping on the powder charger delivers even more or less powder to the cartridge. You always check the weight of every powder charge before seating a bullet in the case. This is a green horn is going to blow a gun one day
This guy is your common know nothing green horn UA-cam video up loader. The sizing dies use also the primer decaping pin and for lubing casings there is lube rolling pads.. There is zero reason to use the Lee decaping die when that RCBS sizing die has the primer punch pin .
Agree with everything you said, except your first three sentences. Better to use the stand alone decapper; it works for multiple calibers. Then you can clean the brass (and now-empty primer pocket) before resizing.
![[Don't Try This] Pushing the 308 Win to 300 Win Mag (Bat Machine, Alpha Munitions)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uXkmcpk7Brc/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm totally new to reloading. I was able to grasp the concept for all steps after watching just once. Great video! Thanks!
Awesome, stay safe!
I don't know why He doesn't use a powder trickler and use it to get your exact powder weight!!!
Good Job Mr. A Precision. Your students learn and a good teacher is always learning. Well done!
not sure if you guys cares but if you guys are bored like me atm then you can watch all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of days xD
@Ian Jadiel definitely, I have been watching on instaflixxer for since december myself :D
I recommend turn all rounds neck down in your tray put them back upright after charging to keep a more sure track on what's charged and isnt I double charged once and luckily caught it
The powder needs to settle in the hopper. Throw about ten charges to let settle without tapping and then handle the thing like a raw egg, no tapping. This measure is very accurate even though it is cheap. It outruns a lot of other ' premium' powder measures but lyman.
This is what I’ve been looking for...thanks for taking the time to create the video!
I wouldn't prime the sized case until I checked case length and trimmed it if needed.
Precisely
I could kick my own tail for not getting into reloading years ago for no other reason than tailoring hunting loads. Too late now with all the shortages and ungodly high prices. Nice video sir.
@Josh Smith people reload for different reasons. Some do it to save money on a certain caliber round that may be hard to find, some do it to stock up on a round they target shoot or plink with alot, some do it as a hobby,, and some a combination of all these reasons. I personally do not shoot any particular round enuff for reloading to be cost efficient enuff to invest in all the equipment it takes to do it for any of the reasons above. Now, there are people who reload certain rounds that they use for hunting or precision shooting that may even specifically hard to find and to gain performance of that round at different yardages or with different grain or type of projectiles, powders, primers, brass, over all case length, bullet seating depth, head spacing, etc, and so on and so on just to get a different outcome or performance of said round on the target or game animals and even from different barrel lengths or even different guns in the same caliber or chambering. Basically, loading and trying different combinations to get different outcomes. That's what tailoring a round means.
I just saw a video where someone did the math for you. It’s actually still cheaper to buy overpriced reloading crap and make your own ammo right now than buy factory ammo. This also depends on caliber. My advice to you would be don’t start if all you’re planning on reloading is 9mm.
I started handloading shotgun shells when I was 14 years old so that I could have the shells when I need them I did a lot of bird hunting duck hunting now that I am 59 . I have gotten into rifle Reloading for several calibers 308 , 270 , 243, 300 win mag and I am about to start 6.5 Creedmoor and 35 Whelen. I do it because of the cost sufficiency and the performance you can actually get a load that you’re gonna like and put five shots touching for a particular caliber that is picky so glad I can reload for my self !! 🤷🏼♂️
Awesome video. Great tutorial. I use progressive reloaders for pistol ammo but ready to start loading .308 and .223 with a single stage press. Great instructions and tips.
Awesome
When you drop the powder into the pan hold the tray up tight to the bottom of the drop tube. After you crank the handle lower the pan and Walla, no spilled powder.
Great video. Thanks!
great stuff kept it up will watch all thank you wry much
after checking the powder measurer drop weight so many times and tapping on it for 15 mins it would have been easier just weighing out each one.
Why don't you use a trickler,so you get exactly the same load everytime...imo this is nowwere near any concistancy...thus not going to give a good shooting result.
Please correct me if i'm wrong here...
All the best from the Netherlands...
Really enjoyed your video, but I still enjoy using Lanolin and Red Liquid Heat mix at 1:10. Takes a couple of seconds to spray on, do a couple of things, and you're ready to go. Not to mention, when doing a thousand a run, saves a ton of time.
I ask that you consider: When you get to the powder loading - build a spreadsheet - weigh each case - throw the powder - weigh the case and powder load - is it perfect????? Under load is disaster, bullet stuck in the barrel, blow up the breach, double load same result....
What press do you recommend? I believe that's the Hornady Classic, but I'm just making sure. Awesome video!!!
It's the lee classic. Depends on what you want to do, if you want precise loads go with a single stage or torrent. If you want bulk, go with a progressive.
For brand new brass out of the bag, would you still use the resizing die and chamfer the cases? Thank you for this video.
Yes. Cause you'll find that even with brand new brass itll have deformed case mouths that need to be reformed and cases dont come chamfered so you put that on there to ease the bullet seating.
If you buy premium brass like Lapua tool find there is little to no initial prep necessary, maybe a little chamfer. That's only for the first use though.
Ladies and gentleman, also make sure your space that the press is attached to, that it’s safe and not failing. Like that little crack on the backside of the press might give way if you crank on it but loading rounds you should have to crank on it and cause that to break. Seems super simple. I actually am thinking about starting to reload my own rounds just because
im guessing you have a crimp in that bullet seating die. you should lower the die until it touches the rim of the case then back it off 1 turn. then adjust for bullet seat. so that way you have more of the bullet seat stem to work with.
I know I'm a little late with my comment, but at first I want to thank you for the great video, it's very interesting and shows the process very good!
And, I've noticed that your tabletop is cracked where the back screw of the press is located, maybe you didn't predrill before you've put in the screw.
I'd recommend fixing it, before it fails, so none of your equipment breaks, or worse!
I'm a first time watcher and your latest subscriber. 😁
Keep up the good work
The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.😄
I would leave the decapping pin in the sizing die. I always prefer to size my brass after decapping and cleaning so the decapping pin in the sizing die should remove any stuck media.
Can’t find any large rife primers
Can you use larger mag primers
On 308 or 243 ? Thanks
Physically they're the same size. Look for recipes that call for them.
Question pls. Can you pls tell me the name of the components you r using for the whole process. Stating from the wash station and the other names from the other machines amd tools you used here step by step . I want to star hand reloading my self so your video is very clear but there are so many products outhere they sell as a kit or just Individual and your video seems so clear and explanatory but I wish you would of said the name and model of the machines and tools u got n prices
Good video you help me out . And I will help you
Any chance I can get a list of all equipment used?
If you crimp the cases, but do not check and size every case, the amount of crimp will vary.
reloading for a semi-auto i have to work my brass way more than you do. Some brass grows as much as .03" when fired...also gotta work the primer pockets cos sometimes the floor gets deformed n you won't be seating your primer flush...thas a major no-no. With better brass (think Lake City} you need Imperial sizing wax or good luck sizing them. Try reading Glen Zedicker's article "reloading for the M-14" n it'll scare the crap outta ya with all that can go wrong reloading .308 for semis
What is your standard deviation and extreme spread
Hey , I’ve been looking for someone to hook up with . I’ve been saving my brass casings . But I don’t reload so I was wondering if you nor somone would wanna make a deal like I send you the casings and X amount and I purchase it “trade” for loaded ?
Thanks for the awesome vid. Would you recommend tumbling spent brass before or after resizing/de-priming. Thanks!!
Deprime separately first on a generic decapping dye, not the sizing dye. But keep your decapping pin in if you're tumbling to knock out any bits of media that get stuck in the flash hole.
@@AlmostPrecisionKinetics awesome, I will do that from now on. Thanks for the help!
What are u getting for into neck diameter..I'm getting .300. Seem like not enough
Did you remove the belling portion of the decapping rod in your sizing die?
Interesting - the other day I watched a review of the same powder measure, where 10 samples in a row was exact to 1 decimal place, without having to tap etc. Curious why the variation in this case is so much higher, in comparison. Top video though, love it!
Grain shape perhaps.
What powder and primers do you use?
Cci LR and varget is what I prefer
@@AlmostPrecisionKinetics Thanks for the response. Years ago I bought a lot of reloading equipment, and never unboxed any of it. I think it's time I got it out and started using it.
This guide is useful but it misses the crucial prior case examination for loose primer pockets/splits/dents or signs of insipient head separation - all of which can cause serious accidents. Furthermore no mention of case length to ensure within prescribed safe max limit. Although it appears to be for full length resizing of cases to fit any 308 It could also cover tailored-fit bullets by measurement of chamber and matching case/bullet length to it.
Why not decap and resize then clean off the resizing lube so contaminate your powder? Are you using distilled or DI deionized?
Distilled water. And I've never had a problem with case lube contaminating my powder to any extent that it harms the load.
have you ever load 300 WSM if so what kind of powder brand you prefer, I'm getting ready to load this round and would like as much info especially from a hands on guy like yourself. Thanks for the good video very help full this will be one of my new hobby hope to see more of it.
Unfortunately I have not loaded 300 wsm before. But thank you for the comment!
@@AlmostPrecisionKinetics it's ok I can't find any video on youtube for this load. I guess I will just do some reading and look at the load chat hahah thanks ......
Question pls. Let's say I'm loading .308 ,how do I know how many powder it takes I side the case shell, and also if I have 175 grain bullet and a 150 grain bullet does 175 will need more powder in the case. Main question is how do I know how much powder to add in each load or if I load different grain bullet in reloading .308 . Is that info comes in the one book for reloading
Yes, purchase a reloading manual. It will have specific weights for powder and projectiles.
once yo get your powder dispenser set, can you zero your scale with each case , add the powder, then check the weight
What model reloader is that from Lee?
Any reason why you not mesure each load so you know you get the exact same amout of gun powder in each brass? This must make a tighter spread when you shoot? 1 grain up or down menas 2.5% of diffrent amount in the brass and can make huge diffrens at the shooting range? Am i wrong?
You are correct, but it isn't that important for these loads. The spread with the powder measure is less than half a grain and these rounds are getting ran through an AR-10. So to me, it's not critical as this isn't for a precision rifle but for a battle rifle.
You're right...and wrong. IF you're shooting a match grade rifle and are capable of holding hard enough...then yes. One grain in some cases(literally) will make a VERY small noticeable difference. BUT...Most people are not only not capable of not noticing such minor variations considering the normal "spread"...but their rifles are certainly not capable of holding that tight tolerance with repeatability. For most people...loading hunting rounds/plinking rounds...a +/- 1 gr is not worth the time to weigh EVERY charge. The normal spread in velocity due to other factors is usually far beyond a 1 gr difference. Weigh and check every 5-10 rounds just to adjust for the loss of volume in your powder hopper in some brands. My Dillon usually loses 1/4 grain every 10 rounds when throwing large volume loads and when using a long stick rifle powder. If using a ball powder...it's virtually identical from full to empty as it's throwing based on volume and not weight. Use a LEE factory crimp die as well to ensure the bullet is "popping" at a more uniform pressure...which can also mask some small variations in powder charge.
Instead of tapping your powder drop all the time, just tape a vibrating toothbrush to the back of it. Simple.
I'd prefer to take the gf's magic wand, more power and all. But either way, it's a great way to build up static in these cheap plastic hoppers with no esd
I know its a Lee press, but what model is that and does it come with the priming tool?
This is the breech lock single stage press. It does have a priming tool that rests in the ram and primes on the down stroke.
The Lee Anniversary kit has the handheld case primer tool with a box of all the special bullet seat inserts that makes priming easier and quicker.
Not bad need some ammo boxes though.
Good vid
You already ran it through the sizing die when you took the old primers out...
The universal depriming die I used first is not a sizing die.
He decapped them first before resizing so primer pockets would be cleaned out.
Here's an idea, because things displace water, how about putting the brass in first, THEN add the cleaning solution, THEN water to the fill line.... Think man...
you are tapping that thing too much. I have the same dispenser and it's not very robust so I don't even tap.
Oversizing your brass... maybe .015..do some serious measurements or ... just buy more brass...
That cheap Chinese scale is NOT, i repeat NOT accurate enough for gunpowder
Really?! Cause it compared pretty nicely to my calibrated, nist tracable, OHaus scale...
You are absolutely correct about the scale…no wonder the differing weights each time he threw a load to test. That should NOT be happening…invest in a real scale. You could use a balance scale in order to get a “feel” for that part of the overall process.
Did you measure your finished rounds against the recommended c.o.l. ? After you finished the crimp step?
Almost Precision your powder measure is not accurate at all, from looking at all the variations of your powder drops, your going to have different points of impact. My recommendation to you is you learn CBTO instead of COAL.
The sizing die has the primer de caping pin so there is zero need to be using a 3rd die to de cap primers.
There is reloading roll pads to lubricate then roll the case on the pad then resize the case.
I get amazed at the number of video's uploaded by green horns about some subject.
The next issue that might happen is for auto loading rifles some rifles need the cases sized in small base dies.
You will know this when fired cartridges start not extracting and causing jam ups
That is absolute stupid and dangerous to not measure each powder charge and tapping on the powder charger delivers even more or less powder to the cartridge.
You always check the weight of every powder charge before seating a bullet in the case.
This is a green horn is going to blow a gun one day
This guy is your common know nothing green horn UA-cam video up loader.
The sizing dies use also the primer decaping pin and for lubing casings there is lube rolling pads..
There is zero reason to use the Lee decaping die when that RCBS sizing die has the primer punch pin .
Agree with everything you said, except your first three sentences. Better to use the stand alone decapper; it works for multiple calibers. Then you can clean the brass (and now-empty primer pocket) before resizing.