You beekeepers all know the old saying: "Ask 10 beekeepers the same question...get 14 different nswers". Use what works best for you in your particular location.
Hi Jason, i really enjoy your videos ... i would say the upper entrance is only needed due to the fact that the body of the hive "walls plus upper side" are poorly insulated, Typical for commercial wooden hives which are not even going as L. L. Langstroth recommended initially " double walled hives" .. the challenge with humidity is actually it hitting a cold surface rather than not being able to run out of the hive "but that is just me" and you could test this with a proper Styrofoam hive with no or little screen bottom board and no upper entrance and you will notice two things 1- less varroa mites as they can't stand high humidity and 2- you will find these hives the next sprint with more remaining stores as they needed to consume less due to the fact that it was easier for them to control the temperature inside and around the cluster! cheers and please keep posting the great videos
I keep the entrance wide open with the screen in place. If bees die during the winter and block the small entrance you will have a pile of dead moldy bees at the bottom preventing bees to leave.
Jason I really appreciate how you acknowledge that different locations have different beekeeping practices, and to consult with local beekeepers in addition to your videos. Too many times new beeks look to videos for information, not realizing that beekeeping practices vary from place to place depending on environment variables. Theres a lot of sketchy videos out here filmed by inexperienced beekeepers, and newbies really have no way of deciphering what's valid. Your videos are ALWAYS informative, reliable and trustworthy. Thanks for educating people on proper bee care, and encouraging them to check their local area to see if the info is applicable for them. :)
Well done...I don't recommend black tar paper either since the bees thermoregulate their cavity and are programmed to the local ecosystem and temperatures there and like you I insulate the inner cover with reflectix bubble wrap and have a small amount of upper ventilation.
My hives go into a heated shed on the weekend, I heat to +4. Door is closed and dark inside. I check once a month for food I can heat up if I want to enter a hive. I am in Canada and we get brutal winters. I can feed there also usually 4 to 1 sugar water
Thanks Jason! These little videos that are timely and just a reminder for me since this is my first winter are a big help. I’ll let you know here in a couple of weeks if my queen got mated. I found a virgin in that hive !
This is great information! I really wish I would've seen this before winter because my bees died due to condensation from a 2:1 mixture and wrapping the hive. 😭
I put my 3 hives in my shed about 2 months ago now I checked today and all 3 alive still lol so now 2 months to go till I bring them out cheers then they are moved into there new hive cheers
Another great video, Jason! I am in mid-MD and run triple deeps and double deeps. Like you, I use a feeding rim as well as an insulated inner cover. But by insulated inner cover consists of a piece of Homasote (moisture absorbing material) glued with construction adhesive to a piece of 1" solid foam insulation. I place the insulated inner cover with Homasote facing down on top of the feeding shim. That inner cover absorbs any moisture that wells up from below, so I have never had a problem with condensation forming above and raining down on the bees. I also have an entrance in my feeding shim, so that allows a little moisture to vent, but I do not think it is a lot - thus the Homasote to absorb moisture. With this set up, I have no qualms about sliding the mite board in all the way, thus reducing the cold - just one more stressor I would like to alleviate. I am also not wrapping with roofing paper this year, as you suggest. So many different ways to do things!
Sounds like you have your setup figured out pretty well, that's great! It can takes some time to tweak your winter setup but what you figure out what works it's best to stick to it. Glad you enjoyed the video!
This is my first year with bee's. Hopefully all will be good next spring. Thanks for all the tips . I am up in Canada and temperature can be really cold . I am not too eager to open up my hive to feed. But I still think that feeder frame could be a life saver for them .
Jason Thank you for the video. That is the most consice and informational packed video I have seen on how to winter your bees. I AMA new beekeeper "First winter". I really like the idea of 3-1 sugar over 2-1, have not heard that before. Again thank you, and I will be looking for more video's from you. John
Jason, a lot of good info! Thanks for doing this. Studies have shown that bee's energy needs is the lowest at 40 F. It increases going colder and warmer. The only advantage to the tar paper would be that it creates a micro-climate around the hive on a quiet day allowing bees to have a potty break without freezing to death. This first year of keeping bees I am targeting my hive weight to 150 lbs. for a 2 deep hive. I'm going to build a feeder rim and throw it on in March if the weather warms a little.
Thanks Russell, glad you enjoyed the video. Didn't realize 40° was where their lowest energy level was. Very interesting! I think your goal of 150 pounds is perfect but I would suggest you go ahead and make the feeding rim and add it. It will make adding food (sugar) late winter much easier and faster. It's always good to be fast when you open the hives in cold weather so I find it best if it's already on the hives.
It should be noted that the reason you want an insulated cover is to prevent condensation above the cluster which takes place on cold to warm days. It's the same reason you insulate a metal barn roof, if you don't it can rain inside the building. It should also be noted that a mouse will tug at entrance reducers and pull them out of the way if they are remotely loose.
Great helpful video Jason and it answered my question bout screened bottom boards during winter. Reckon I will just leave em all wide open. Was going to close half and leave half open to see which colonies did best. Thanks bro. And fixin to take advantage of my last can of Super Clean before the $1.00 off offer expires. Great stuff!
Thanks for the great info Jason. Over this past few years you have given me a lot of great ideas and I appreciate it. I must add too, that those readers who have left comments have also provided great info to help me out thanks to everyone. I guess I will see you all in the spring time. Take care and Bee safe. Tim
Glad to hear the videos are helpful. I'd like to see all beekeepers to succeed. You are right too, my followers do share some greats tips and ideas. What do you mean you will see us all in the spring? I am not taking a break from videos. lol You'll see my face again next week as long as you tune in. Take care, Tim
5:30 I hear your argument. But my argument would be that they don't need to generate as much heat if they have extra insulation on the hive. If the bees don't need to expend as much energy to keep with hive warm, they'd be saving honey. Your point about the hive overheating is an interesting thought I hadn't had.
A candy board doesn't absorb moisture in the hive like dry sugar, this is because the candy board already had water added. If anything it may add a little moisture to a colony in my opinion. Nice to see another Ohioian, best of luck this winter and if you have anymore question just ask!
Thanks! I am glad you enjoy them. Sounds like your about 30 minutes from me, that's awesome. How many hives do you have? Is this your first year with bees?
I have 5 right now this is my second year. Hopefully they can make it through the winter. That’s the only thing I’m worried about. Hate to loose bees when there’s something I could’ve done
Your shocked that you still have drones? Shouldn't you? I thought it was amazing that I still have drones and we are sitting at 40°f right now. When do your drones usually get the boot down there?
Today is Oct. 23. Well it seems as the free ride is over. Drones are being driven out with a vengence. As far as whats the norm, I don't really know. I've only been beekeeping a few years and never really noted the date from years past.
I drilled 1" holes in the Ceracell feeder frames and covered the holes with 1/8" hardware cloth to create ventilation. Now I can use the Ceracell feeder frame as the spacer for dry sugar and ventilation as well.
Just keep in mind that as old bees die naturally over winter they will pile in front of the lower entrance, pretty much blocking it off completely until we get a warmer day for cleaning flights. So for this reason, you will want a entrance up high too. I'm not sure how your hives are setup, maybe you already have that taken care of but I wanted to mention it to bee safe.😀
I think you meant to say "the bees kneeds"... (kidding :-) Good idea on 3:1...think I'll try that next fall...if my girls make it thru this winter, that is! Another great video, thanks!!
Make you a little wood box home and wrap tar paper around it see how how long you last when it gets in the 40s or below. It worthless. You might get less wind in, but that is it. A complete waste of time and money.
So be keepers do not have to worry about mice during the rest of the year only during winter I would think that there a pest all your round. Correct me if I’m wrong
Yes, they rest of the season mice are not an issue to bee hives. Not sure why, maybe it's due to the bee population being bigger and the fact that the bees can move around better in the summer to protect what is theirs.
I live in Midwestern Indiana. I am a brand new beekeeper this year. So you don't recommend buying a hive koozoe? I think we get about the same winters as you do. I do have the new style medium feeder that is plastic with 2 sides and it fits in a medium Box It has 2 sides to fill up with sugar water. Do you suggest putting raw sugar in both sides for feed? Thanks for your video God-bless
I guess I forgot to mention that but the reason I didn't is they are always tilted forward. I never change that based on the season. In the summer, you want the rain to run away from the hive entrance and winter it's the condensation so it just easiest to leave it sloped. As far as how much, Not enough that it could get blown over but enough water runs away from the hive. If I were to guess, I'd say stick something about 1" thick under the back of the hive. Another thing to consider if you have lots of wind is winch straps to hold them on the hive stand. The more I think about this there may have to be a part 2 to this video. lol
Another very informative video Jason thanks. I have vents in the roofs on my hives but no holes in the top board to make use of these vents. I have 4 vents holes in the roofs and would like to fit ditto in the top board with some verroa mesh over them.vwhat size holes would you recommend, I was thinking of say 3/4" or 1". In the roof sides they are 3/4" dia. Many thanks. All the best, Ian
Thumb tacks and wire? Darn it all. I’ve got thumb tacks and wire, but I ordered the fancy mouse guard (and paid the ridiculous shipping) from that guy in Western OH. Shoot! Lesson learned.
Well if it makes you feel any better, the one you purchased will last many years. I am always one to make some things before buying it if it's possible. Rabbit wire has always worked very well.
Wrapping a large number of hives is very timely. I'm more concerned about box gaps even in new boxes not meeting well and lacking propolis. Do you tape the larger gaps or not? Drafting on/a cross the cluster is my concern. NW Indiana near Lake Michigan. HBM
i am with phil about the gaps, i wrap my hives to stop the wind from going through the hive, i am in NH and it gets cold and windy, you can wake up with zero degree weather for 2 weeks add the wind and man its cold and if the wind is going through the hive it will take the warmth out? great video
Some beekeepers here in the North swear by Vivaldi boards for controlling moisture...a top frame with 1/4' wire attached to the bottom. 2 1" holes on opposite sides of the frame. It has layers of burlap folded over and laid on top of the wire. When placed on the top of the hive, the burlap wicks the condensation. Air flowing through the holes will evaporate the moisture. (Staple wire over the holes, of course.). This is similar to the old "quilt board". Any thoughts out there? (Top cover goes over the vivaldi board).
On the inner cover can you give a few more details on what you do. Also what do you do about the mites ? Do you do anything. Thanks, if you can help that would be great.
Im looking to move with my wife somewhere in your area and set up a small homestead. I've been looking for other beeks and farmers that can give me more personal insights into the region, subbed.
I am in central Ohio and have a homesteader type lifestyle. I manage cattle, chickens and bees. You can see my farming videos here ua-cam.com/users/grazingacresfarm Where do you currently live?
@@JCsBees That's what we've realised recently we want to do with our lives, all that and a garden. We reside in Utah currently but I was born and raised in northern Indiana. Looking around central/northern Ohio for when we are ready to make the move.
That sounds like a pretty big move. I was born and raised here in central Ohio. I've been beekeeping for 10 years and starting farming 5 years ago. We practice organic farming and the cattle are only fed grass, never grain.
@@JCsBees Yeah we will be taking a risk when the time comes but it is something we are both interested in doing with our futures. It does help knowing the land more personally as you do, i look forward to what i can learn from your videos. I love the way you go about things there, we were looking at doing organic for everything!
first-year beekeeper here with a couple questions. First off, what is your opinion on making little insulation boxes out of 1-inch insulation, and putting that around the hive? I live in Wisconsin, on the lake so it is a little colder here than in Ohio, but would like the opinion of someone who has done this alot Second about how many deep frames should be filled to get that 100 pounds of stores? Thanks for all the videos, they have really guided me this year!
Insulation will not hurt just make sure you have a top entrance for moisture to escape and don't block it with insulation. If a deep frame is 10 pounds then you would need about 14 or so would be my guess for you. But that is just a guess as your more north than me. I like to have 100+ pounds of food store for Ohio.
Always excellent advice Jason. Thanks. I see you flip the inner cover over so the vent is on the "warm side", the under side, of the cover. With this done, does the vent in the middle of the inner cover need to remain open? With the inner cover flipped the moisture that vents through the center hole has nowhere to go because the inner cover has been flipped placing the notched vent on the lower side of the inner cover.
Ahhhh the winter prep debate. Lol good job CONSTRUCTIVE BEEKEEPING Ed Clarke 1908 Free pdf 48 pgs. Should help you a lot........ Changed my strategy for the better. I dont lose hives to moisture ever. Other stuff for sure.......
Well, I live in South Florida and there isn’t much winter preparation to do as they can pretty much find food all year long and it doesn’t get all that cold. Maybe some syrup a couple of times but that’s about it. Just love your videos had how you explain things. Keep it up.
Hi I’m new to bee keeping and live in Minnesota where winters are extreme am I supposed to harvest the honey before winter and leave some for them or harvest all and give them food as needed?
Thanks i found your video very insightful. Im a new bee keeper in southern canada. I have one hive in the back corner of the yard . The fence will be able to block wind from two sides . I put 1/2 inch Styrofoam in the cover yesterday . I think instead of wrapping the hive i will put up a wind block on the side where the wind can get wicked . I bought 4 pieces of rebar to hammer into the ground and will put a large piece of wood in between for a wall. I had a wood fence almost knocked down last winter so i will put a huge stone on top of the hive . Do i need to screw down entrance reducer? There are many mice /rats i the area . What do you think?
Why not just use already manufactured polystyrene lids? Is it because they are more expensive? I have polystyrene hives so I guess I don’t need to insulate the roof?
What would you say your winter low temps would be? I'm in Alberta Canada, and we can get down to -40C with winds...so I'll still insulate..just not with black. We used the rigid styrofoam last year but sealed it up too well so we dealt with moisture issues...we're working through solutions for that this year.
@Veta B We get down to -15 to -20 for short periods but not too often. Seems like we usually hover around in the 20's most of the winter. As mentioned in the video, I do not wrap but understand why you are. I would add a top entrance so that moisture can escape. Best of luck!
Is it better to not have any top entrance for overwintering hives? (In a somewhat cold state but not as bad as some.) I forgot the answer to this but swear I heard something about it last year.
No you want a top entrance for 2 reasons. 1. It will help with moisture escaping. 2. As winter progresses some older bees will die and block the lower entrance.
Quick thought/question. As I work on my winterizing as well, you mentioned you have screened bottom boards. With that said it also looked like you have three different entrance reducers. (The hive on the left doesn't have any.) I have a solid bottom board on my hive and Minnesota winters can be downright brutal. With that said, I was wondering what you think my entrance reducer situation should be? Wide open, medium or small notch? I already installed a mouse guard on the medium notch of my reducer but that can easily be changed.
Great question. On the hive without the reducer the entrance is only a 1/4" tall so it's not like a standard entrance that is 3/4" and could create a huge draft. Also keep in mind what I said about cold weather not killing bees that is important. That said, I would keep it the way you have it, just make sure there is an upper entrance too. Over the winter old bees will die naturally and fall to the bottom board. Over time they will block the lower entrance. So the upper entrance gives the bees a place to come and go, plus allows moisture to vent out.
I have a medium honey super on a hive that has 2 deep boxes. Do I remove it ? It's sugar syrup that is capped, maybe a little goldenrod. Also I've seen videos that say to move all the food to the upper box and leave brood in the bottom box only. Is this a good idea? I'm in Southern KY and it can be below zero for a short time. I wonder if there could be any benefit to leaving the center frame in the bottom box out to allow more bees to be closer together. Any thoughts on that?
I have a couple hives that I left supers on, that's no big deal. Just make sure you remove the queen excluder or the queen will not be able to move up with the cluster. I would not remove any frames as the bees will cluster around frames of food. The bees in the center of the cluster stay warm and are able to eat as their bellies fill they move to the outside of cluster and a cold bees moves into the center. This process repeat all winter. I think the empty spot could be deadly for them.
Give one a try. It would be good viewing to see how they work in your climate. They work well in the Australian heat and cold. Check out Australian Honeybee they use them commercially.
Nice video, I have learned a lot from you this past year. im wondering if you have ever used moisture quilts and do you have any particular opinion about them. I lost my hive to moisture last year and I have quilts on my 3 hives this year. im in central PA so our weather is similar. again thanks for the great videos!!
If your in the North country where it gets cold, hell no. Leave a 2-3" opening like Jason had with a top ventilation hole. I built a quilt box for my bees here in MN. It is like a feeder rim built out of 1x4's with three screened 1" vent holes. The bottom of the rim is supported plastic window screening which allows moisture through. On top of the screening I am placing 3" of wood shavings that will absorb moisture, insulate, and the holes on the sides allows moisture to evaporate. Remember the olden days before clothes dryers, people would hang their wet clothes on the cloth line outside and they would dry. ( not my good old days LOL).
@Tony Hackett I do leave my screened bottoms open year round and I have really good success rate by doing so. It's my experience bees can handle the cold way better than getting wet. The screened bottoms allow more air flow which helps combat the moisture. You will want a top entrance though and make sure it's as much towards the top of hive as possible.
I just watched your video I am going to try the stuff that you said I have my bees in 10 frame deep boxes with a medium super on them any input would be greatly appreciated. And I am not taking any honey off of my hives this year I am leaving it for them
I don't have any feeder rings. When it's warm, I feed my bees with a mason jar over the hole in the inner cover, and I leave an empty box on top of the inner cover order to enclose the jar which is topped with my telescoping cover. Can I put the news paper and sugar on top of the inner cover enclosed by the box like I do my sugar syrup? Or do I need to put it under the inner cover? Thanks. I have really enjoyed your videos, you have helped me out countless times in the past.
You can surely add sugar to the top of the inner cover but I can't say it will do much for the moisture up there. It really needs to be below the inner cover. Maybe move your empty box below inner cover and use it as a feeding rig. Of course, the shallower the box the better. Also I would add an entrance right below inner cover for excess moisture to escape. Glad to hear my videos are helping!
Jason, I'm confused about adding an entrance below the inner cover. Is this the cover inside the box with the message "this side up" that has an entrance in it. I was told to flip that upside down for the winter. Couldn't find the link to your Amazon store. I have a screened bottom board but the hive is about 18" above the ground. If I get hay bales, how close to the hive do I place them and do I place them around 3 sides with leaving the SE side open. I live in MA. Your review is appreciated.
First let me say every beekeeper has their own way of doing things. You can ask 10 beekeepers a question and get 12 answers. lol What you are descibing does sound like the inner cover and yes I would leave that entrance facing down but that's me. Hay bales will work great as a wind block but you need to keep in mind that mice are drawn to them to keep warm. So I would allow enough room between hay bales and hive to walk. I would also use fence "T" stake to secure the hay bales. You wouldn't want the bales to blow into hives and knock them over. Hope this helps!
Why's that? These still have a couple years life left, don't you think? lol I am considering going to all 5 framers so new equipment may be in the plans.
lol. The bees will spend all of their time producing propolis instead of honey. I am taking 8 5F Nucs into winter this year. They built up so fast over the last month that I probably could have moved them in to something bigger. I moved one on to a pallet yesterday to over winter doubles and they were pouring out and pissed off. I may build a bunch of 8 frame boxes this winter and see if I like them better than 10's next year.
Well there is a market for propolis so maybe that is not a bad thing. lol I am also getting away from honey production and concentrating on nucs and queen sales anyway. Something about this weather is making the bees a bit moody. lol I bumped one of my big hives the other day and bees poured out with an attitude. So I relate to your nuc situation. I have around 20 nucs to take through winter, each one is actually double 5 framers now. Have you overwintered nucs before?
Foragers are staying home, they can not gather any nectar or pollen, and as they get closer to eol, they get a lot more crankie, short temper, tired, and sore like me. Lot of these bees will bee dying off shortly from old age. I have had better luck with 8F than 10F. Had a lot of 10 F not filled out, mainly on the two sides. 8F filled completely out. Thay are also 18 lbs lighter..
Lost my bees 3 winters in a row. I have a very active hive now and it was 30 last night. Last year I used 2 inch insulation on bottom and sides lat year I had a button and top entrance. They still were dead in the spring. I want this hive to make it this winter. What can I do?
I think tilting the hive's backside up a little can also help. If moisture does condense it might run off to the front of the hive and down the front sidewall. Did you do an oxalic acid dribble after the brood has ceased? Good luck and try to block the cold winds with some bales or fencing.
Russell is right, tilting the hive forward is a great idea and can help a lot. Besides setting the hive up for winter you need to manage mites, have you been doing that? Using the Dribble Method is a great suggestion too.
@@JCsBees Jason can it be to cool out when you do a dribble? Should it be above 40 or 50? Getting the bees wet when its cold outside is probably not a good idea. Not sure how warm it's going to get here in MN later this month. Thanks.
Hi, i don’t know if anyone is going to answer this but i just found a queen bee in my house, she probably came inside with fire wood and its winter. I gave her some sugarwater and i brought her to outside but she almost died because it was too cold. I know its just a bee but i dont want it to suffer so what i can do? Do i just kill it so she doesent suffer, do i keep it as a pet(well how) or do i let it go outside and let her die? Or is there another option?
I’m adding the insulated top cover this year. After loosing all my hives last winter I’m really nervous this year. Took extra precautions I didn’t do last year. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the videos. If you still have my email can you shoot me a msg when ceracell has product in USA or Canada ?
The insulated cover will help for sure. Did you figure out why they died last year? Were the bees wet? Did they still have food? Could the cluster have split on a warm day and didn't make it back clustering before temps dropped? If your on FaceBook, Ceracell just started a page for the US. Here's a link facebook.com/CeracellUSA/
They broke cluster lots of stores left over. There was a warm spell in February. Huge losses up here. Up to 60% in some areas. Some people gave up. 200 hives came out with 12. One farm lost 900 out of the 2600. Its a shame. I’m not certain exactly why but that’s what I’ve heard. Pretty tough to recover from those kind of looses. Mine I think were a comb of mistakes. Not enough time is my biggest but that has been better this year for me. I feel well prepared. Lots stores supplements treatments. Wind blocks ect. Fingers crossed.
sadly no. I used quick strips year before last and they killed my queens which made for an emergency run for queens. I thought I would try natural approach. This year I used a different product. apivar?
I'm a new beekeeper starting out in North-Western Ohio! Thanks for the video!
Awesome! Best of luck with your bees.
Ventilation is key, keep the moisture off of the cluster and keep them full of feed and you will be just fine!
You beekeepers all know the old saying: "Ask 10 beekeepers the same question...get 14 different nswers". Use what works best for you in your particular location.
I like the feeder ring and dry sugar option, ty brother. . .
No problem 👍
Good info. Thanks!
Hi Jason, i really enjoy your videos ... i would say the upper entrance is only needed due to the fact that the body of the hive "walls plus upper side" are poorly insulated, Typical for commercial wooden hives which are not even going as L. L. Langstroth recommended initially " double walled hives" .. the challenge with humidity is actually it hitting a cold surface rather than not being able to run out of the hive "but that is just me" and you could test this with a proper Styrofoam hive with no or little screen bottom board and no upper entrance and you will notice two things 1- less varroa mites as they can't stand high humidity and 2- you will find these hives the next sprint with more remaining stores as they needed to consume less due to the fact that it was easier for them to control the temperature inside and around the cluster! cheers and please keep posting the great videos
Good information Jason! Lots of good points!
OK seen the updated info of this video as far as ventilation, and will put into consideration for what I need to get built by winter of next year.
I keep the entrance wide open with the screen in place. If bees die during the winter and block the small entrance you will have a pile of dead moldy bees at the bottom preventing bees to leave.
Jason I really appreciate how you acknowledge that different locations have different beekeeping practices, and to consult with local beekeepers in addition to your videos. Too many times new beeks look to videos for information, not realizing that beekeeping practices vary from place to place depending on environment variables. Theres a lot of sketchy videos out here filmed by inexperienced beekeepers, and newbies really have no way of deciphering what's valid. Your videos are ALWAYS informative, reliable and trustworthy. Thanks for educating people on proper bee care, and encouraging them to check their local area to see if the info is applicable for them. :)
Thanks for the kind words, Lisa. I am glad my effort show.
Good info - and a reason to subscribe,. Thanks Jason
Awesome, thank you!
Great video, 1st winter coming here. Really helpful
Well done...I don't recommend black tar paper either since the bees thermoregulate their cavity and are programmed to the local ecosystem and temperatures there and like you I insulate the inner cover with reflectix bubble wrap and have a small amount of upper ventilation.
My hives go into a heated shed on the weekend, I heat to +4. Door is closed and dark inside. I check once a month for food I can heat up if I want to enter a hive. I am in Canada and we get brutal winters. I can feed there also usually 4 to 1 sugar water
Good video! Good advise! I agree with everything you said. Of course, there are various opinions out there, but my experience agrees with yours.
Another good video! I like how you give reasons of why you do things as it really helps to understand cause and effect for me.
Thanks! I try my best to make things easy to understand. Glad it's helping you.
Thank you so much for your video and tips. We have had bees for a few years but I’m new to looking after my bees now so really helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jason! These little videos that are timely and just a reminder for me since this is my first winter are a big help. I’ll let you know here in a couple of weeks if my queen got mated. I found a virgin in that hive !
Nice to know you seen the video and glad it helped. Are you seeing drones still? I know some of my colonies still have them. Best of luck!
Jason Chrisman yes. The hive that had the queen problem had drones. 1 week later the other hive didn’t when I went through it!
This is great information! I really wish I would've seen this before winter because my bees died due to condensation from a 2:1 mixture and wrapping the hive. 😭
Sorry to hear about your bees. If you subscribe to my channel I will help teach you about beekeeping. I hope your not stopping.
Thanks for the great info!!!
Jason
Thanks for the videos very good information
Great ideas to help us new bee keepers. I hoping to get a few hives through the winter this year.
thanks! great advice, straight forward!
I put my 3 hives in my shed about 2 months ago now I checked today and all 3 alive still lol so now 2 months to go till I bring them out cheers then they are moved into there new hive cheers
Another great video, Jason! I am in mid-MD and run triple deeps and double deeps. Like you, I use a feeding rim as well as an insulated inner cover. But by insulated inner cover consists of a piece of Homasote (moisture absorbing material) glued with construction adhesive to a piece of 1" solid foam insulation. I place the insulated inner cover with Homasote facing down on top of the feeding shim. That inner cover absorbs any moisture that wells up from below, so I have never had a problem with condensation forming above and raining down on the bees. I also have an entrance in my feeding shim, so that allows a little moisture to vent, but I do not think it is a lot - thus the Homasote to absorb moisture. With this set up, I have no qualms about sliding the mite board in all the way, thus reducing the cold - just one more stressor I would like to alleviate. I am also not wrapping with roofing paper this year, as you suggest. So many different ways to do things!
Sounds like you have your setup figured out pretty well, that's great! It can takes some time to tweak your winter setup but what you figure out what works it's best to stick to it. Glad you enjoyed the video!
This is my first year with bee's. Hopefully all will be good next spring. Thanks for all the tips . I am up in Canada and temperature can be really cold . I am not too eager to open up my hive to feed. But I still think that feeder frame could be a life saver for them .
Did they make it?
@@shannjill was thinking the same thing
Jason
Thank you for the video. That is the most consice and informational packed video I have seen on how to winter your bees.
I AMA new beekeeper "First winter".
I really like the idea of 3-1 sugar over 2-1, have not heard that before.
Again thank you, and I will be looking for more video's from you.
John
Glad the video was helpful!
Thank you for the great video.I am a new honey bee farmer up here in Canada and you video gave me some great insight to what I need to prepare for.
That's awesome! Glad the content is helpful!
Jason, a lot of good info! Thanks for doing this. Studies have shown that bee's energy needs is the lowest at 40 F. It increases going colder and warmer. The only advantage to the tar paper would be that it creates a micro-climate around the hive on a quiet day allowing bees to have a potty break without freezing to death. This first year of keeping bees I am targeting my hive weight to 150 lbs. for a 2 deep hive. I'm going to build a feeder rim and throw it on in March if the weather warms a little.
Thanks Russell, glad you enjoyed the video. Didn't realize 40° was where their lowest energy level was. Very interesting! I think your goal of 150 pounds is perfect but I would suggest you go ahead and make the feeding rim and add it. It will make adding food (sugar) late winter much easier and faster. It's always good to be fast when you open the hives in cold weather so I find it best if it's already on the hives.
@@JCsBees Thanks for the reply. That is a good point. Thanks for the feedback. So much to learn.
It should be noted that the reason you want an insulated cover is to prevent condensation above the cluster which takes place on cold to warm days. It's the same reason you insulate a metal barn roof, if you don't it can rain inside the building. It should also be noted that a mouse will tug at entrance reducers and pull them out of the way if they are remotely loose.
Jason could you do a video on how to fix xo b and explain why there making weird cold rhanks
Dang spell check weird wax
Sure thing! I'll do it soon.
Great helpful video Jason and it answered my question bout screened bottom boards during winter. Reckon I will just leave em all wide open. Was going to close half and leave half open to see which colonies did best. Thanks bro. And fixin to take advantage of my last can of Super Clean before the $1.00 off offer expires. Great stuff!
Thanks for the great info Jason. Over this past few years you have given me a lot of great ideas and I appreciate it. I must add too, that those readers who have left comments have also provided great info to help me out thanks to everyone. I guess I will see you all in the spring time. Take care and Bee safe. Tim
Glad to hear the videos are helpful. I'd like to see all beekeepers to succeed. You are right too, my followers do share some greats tips and ideas.
What do you mean you will see us all in the spring? I am not taking a break from videos. lol You'll see my face again next week as long as you tune in.
Take care, Tim
Well that is good to hear. Then I will see you next week. Have a great one. Tim
👍
Excellent vidéo.Thank You.
5:30 I hear your argument. But my argument would be that they don't need to generate as much heat if they have extra insulation on the hive. If the bees don't need to expend as much energy to keep with hive warm, they'd be saving honey.
Your point about the hive overheating is an interesting thought I hadn't had.
Good video, Jason.
Regarding dry sugar on top of newspaper... why not use candy board instead of dry sugar? ... I am a novice bee keeper and am located in SE Ohio
Thx
DS
A candy board doesn't absorb moisture in the hive like dry sugar, this is because the candy board already had water added. If anything it may add a little moisture to a colony in my opinion.
Nice to see another Ohioian, best of luck this winter and if you have anymore question just ask!
Top insulation and ventilation is key.
Absolutely!!!
Good video! Enjoy watching them. Just live up the road in Mount Vernon so it helps to see what your doing. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I am glad you enjoy them. Sounds like your about 30 minutes from me, that's awesome. How many hives do you have? Is this your first year with bees?
I have 5 right now this is my second year. Hopefully they can make it through the winter. That’s the only thing I’m worried about. Hate to loose bees when there’s something I could’ve done
Best of luck to you and your bees.
I'm shocked here in Georgia, I still have drones in my hives! Great video as always!
Your shocked that you still have drones? Shouldn't you? I thought it was amazing that I still have drones and we are sitting at 40°f right now. When do your drones usually get the boot down there?
I published a video last year drones were being evicted Oct. 1st
I'm in southeastern wisconsin and I also still had drones a few days ago!!
+Kdog Wow, that seems really weird for you to still have them. When do they usually get booted for your area any idea?
Today is Oct. 23. Well it seems as the free ride is over. Drones are being driven out with a vengence. As far as whats the norm, I don't really know. I've only been beekeeping a few years and never really noted the date from years past.
I drilled 1" holes in the Ceracell feeder frames and covered the holes with 1/8" hardware cloth to create ventilation. Now I can use the Ceracell feeder frame as the spacer for dry sugar and ventilation as well.
So you drilled the hole through the wood framing of the Ceracell feeder? If so, that should work very well.
Yes. Seems to be working but the real test will be this winter.
Just keep in mind that as old bees die naturally over winter they will pile in front of the lower entrance, pretty much blocking it off completely until we get a warmer day for cleaning flights. So for this reason, you will want a entrance up high too. I'm not sure how your hives are setup, maybe you already have that taken care of but I wanted to mention it to bee safe.😀
I think you meant to say "the bees kneeds"... (kidding :-)
Good idea on 3:1...think I'll try that next fall...if my girls make it thru this winter, that is! Another great video, thanks!!
Put a light bulb 20 watts bulb in the bottom. Incadesine bulb. It keeps it like its warmyear around
That's a bad idea! the heat would just cause them to eat more than they would if they were cold. Never add heat to a bee hive, ever!
I did the tar paper one year and it helped none. lol
I bet it helped it take longer to get into the hives. lol
I guess it could slow robbing. lol
Make you a little wood box home and wrap tar paper around it see how how long you last when it gets in the 40s or below. It worthless. You might get less wind in, but that is it. A complete waste of time and money.
So be keepers do not have to worry about mice during the rest of the year only during winter I would think that there a pest all your round. Correct me if I’m wrong
Yes, they rest of the season mice are not an issue to bee hives. Not sure why, maybe it's due to the bee population being bigger and the fact that the bees can move around better in the summer to protect what is theirs.
I live in Midwestern Indiana. I am a brand new beekeeper this year. So you don't recommend buying a hive koozoe? I think we get about the same winters as you do. I do have the new style medium feeder that is plastic with 2 sides and it fits in a medium Box It has 2 sides to fill up with sugar water. Do you suggest putting raw sugar in both sides for feed? Thanks for your video God-bless
Do you tilt your hives any to let any condensation run forward if so how much?
I guess I forgot to mention that but the reason I didn't is they are always tilted forward. I never change that based on the season. In the summer, you want the rain to run away from the hive entrance and winter it's the condensation so it just easiest to leave it sloped. As far as how much, Not enough that it could get blown over but enough water runs away from the hive. If I were to guess, I'd say stick something about 1" thick under the back of the hive.
Another thing to consider if you have lots of wind is winch straps to hold them on the hive stand. The more I think about this there may have to be a part 2 to this video. lol
Another very informative video Jason thanks. I have vents in the roofs on my hives but no holes in the top board to make use of these vents. I have 4 vents holes in the roofs and would like to fit ditto in the top board with some verroa mesh over them.vwhat size holes would you recommend, I was thinking of say 3/4" or 1". In the roof sides they are 3/4" dia.
Many thanks.
All the best, Ian
Thumb tacks and wire? Darn it all. I’ve got thumb tacks and wire, but I ordered the fancy mouse guard (and paid the ridiculous shipping) from that guy in Western OH. Shoot! Lesson learned.
Well if it makes you feel any better, the one you purchased will last many years. I am always one to make some things before buying it if it's possible. Rabbit wire has always worked very well.
Wrapping a large number of hives is very timely. I'm more concerned about box gaps even in new boxes not meeting well and lacking propolis. Do you tape the larger gaps or not? Drafting on/a cross the cluster is my concern. NW Indiana near Lake Michigan. HBM
i am with phil about the gaps, i wrap my hives to stop the wind from going through the hive, i am in NH and it gets cold and windy, you can wake up with zero degree weather for 2 weeks add the wind and man its cold and if the wind is going through the hive it will take the warmth out? great video
Some beekeepers here in the North swear by Vivaldi boards for controlling moisture...a top frame with 1/4' wire attached to the bottom. 2 1" holes on opposite sides of the frame. It has layers of burlap folded over and laid on top of the wire. When placed on the top of the hive, the burlap wicks the condensation. Air flowing through the holes will evaporate the moisture. (Staple wire over the holes, of course.). This is similar to the old "quilt board". Any thoughts out there? (Top cover goes over the vivaldi board).
On the inner cover can you give a few more details on what you do.
Also what do you do about the mites ? Do you do anything. Thanks, if you can help that would be great.
Im looking to move with my wife somewhere in your area and set up a small homestead. I've been looking for other beeks and farmers that can give me more personal insights into the region, subbed.
I am in central Ohio and have a homesteader type lifestyle. I manage cattle, chickens and bees. You can see my farming videos here ua-cam.com/users/grazingacresfarm
Where do you currently live?
@@JCsBees That's what we've realised recently we want to do with our lives, all that and a garden. We reside in Utah currently but I was born and raised in northern Indiana. Looking around central/northern Ohio for when we are ready to make the move.
That sounds like a pretty big move. I was born and raised here in central Ohio. I've been beekeeping for 10 years and starting farming 5 years ago. We practice organic farming and the cattle are only fed grass, never grain.
@@JCsBees Yeah we will be taking a risk when the time comes but it is something we are both interested in doing with our futures. It does help knowing the land more personally as you do, i look forward to what i can learn from your videos. I love the way you go about things there, we were looking at doing organic for everything!
first-year beekeeper here with a couple questions. First off, what is your opinion on making little insulation boxes out of 1-inch insulation, and putting that around the hive? I live in Wisconsin, on the lake so it is a little colder here than in Ohio, but would like the opinion of someone who has done this alot Second about how many deep frames should be filled to get that 100 pounds of stores?
Thanks for all the videos, they have really guided me this year!
Insulation will not hurt just make sure you have a top entrance for moisture to escape and don't block it with insulation.
If a deep frame is 10 pounds then you would need about 14 or so would be my guess for you. But that is just a guess as your more north than me. I like to have 100+ pounds of food store for Ohio.
ok thanks!!
I live in central Wa and it will drop to -15f sometimes will a non insulated hive handle that type of cold?
When do you put the dry sugar ?
The picture at the end of the video shows snow on landing board entrance. Do you clear this off after every snowfall?
No. I only do it when we get a deep snow.
Hello, So you use the open base bottoms or do you close them off some how? Nice video thank you.
Always excellent advice Jason. Thanks. I see you flip the inner cover over so the vent is on the "warm side", the under side, of the cover. With this done, does the vent in the middle of the inner cover need to remain open? With the inner cover flipped the moisture that vents through the center hole has nowhere to go because the inner cover has been flipped placing the notched vent on the lower side of the inner cover.
It's in the upper 30's already Oman
Yeah we been battling the 30's for a week or so now but up to then it was like summer still. Indeed very strange weather for Ohio.
Man we're in the 80-70's but we only have a few weeks of winter most of the time
Ahhhh the winter prep debate. Lol good job
CONSTRUCTIVE BEEKEEPING
Ed Clarke 1908
Free pdf 48 pgs.
Should help you a lot........
Changed my strategy for the better. I dont lose hives to moisture ever. Other stuff for sure.......
Instead of the fondant could you just use candy board ?
You sure could!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it. Did it leave you with any questions?
Well, I live in South Florida and there isn’t much winter preparation to do as they can pretty much find food all year long and it doesn’t get all that cold. Maybe some syrup a couple of times but that’s about it. Just love your videos had how you explain things. Keep it up.
Nice! What part of Florida? Did you have any hurricane damage? Glad to hear you like my approach in my videos. Thanks, that means a lot.
Tampa Bay area. Luckily, we haven’t had any threats of a hurricane this year. 🙏🏻
Hi I’m new to bee keeping and live in Minnesota where winters are extreme am I supposed to harvest the honey before winter and leave some for them or harvest all and give them food as needed?
Thanks i found your video very insightful. Im a new bee keeper in southern canada. I have one hive in the back corner of the yard . The fence will be able to block wind from two sides . I put 1/2 inch Styrofoam in the cover yesterday . I think instead of wrapping the hive i will put up a wind block on the side where the wind can get wicked . I bought 4 pieces of rebar to hammer into the ground and will put a large piece of wood in between for a wall. I had a wood fence almost knocked down last winter so i will put a huge stone on top of the hive . Do i need to screw down entrance reducer? There are many mice /rats i the area . What do you think?
Why not just use already manufactured polystyrene lids? Is it because they are more expensive? I have polystyrene hives so I guess I don’t need to insulate the roof?
Yes, it's an added expense.
No, you don't need to insulate your poly hive.
What would you say your winter low temps would be? I'm in Alberta Canada, and we can get down to -40C with winds...so I'll still insulate..just not with black. We used the rigid styrofoam last year but sealed it up too well so we dealt with moisture issues...we're working through solutions for that this year.
@Veta B We get down to -15 to -20 for short periods but not too often. Seems like we usually hover around in the 20's most of the winter. As mentioned in the video, I do not wrap but understand why you are. I would add a top entrance so that moisture can escape. Best of luck!
does your top cover have the hole in it or is there a top cover that is complete and the cover with a hole is inside?
Is it better to not have any top entrance for overwintering hives? (In a somewhat cold state but not as bad as some.) I forgot the answer to this but swear I heard something about it last year.
No you want a top entrance for 2 reasons.
1. It will help with moisture escaping.
2. As winter progresses some older bees will die and block the lower entrance.
@@JCsBees Thank you very much. Also liked the duck sounds in the background.
Quick thought/question. As I work on my winterizing as well, you mentioned you have screened bottom boards. With that said it also looked like you have three different entrance reducers. (The hive on the left doesn't have any.)
I have a solid bottom board on my hive and Minnesota winters can be downright brutal. With that said, I was wondering what you think my entrance reducer situation should be? Wide open, medium or small notch? I already installed a mouse guard on the medium notch of my reducer but that can easily be changed.
Great question. On the hive without the reducer the entrance is only a 1/4" tall so it's not like a standard entrance that is 3/4" and could create a huge draft. Also keep in mind what I said about cold weather not killing bees that is important. That said, I would keep it the way you have it, just make sure there is an upper entrance too. Over the winter old bees will die naturally and fall to the bottom board. Over time they will block the lower entrance. So the upper entrance gives the bees a place to come and go, plus allows moisture to vent out.
I have a medium honey super on a hive that has 2 deep boxes. Do I remove it ? It's sugar syrup that is capped, maybe a little goldenrod. Also I've seen videos that say to move all the food to the upper box and leave brood in the bottom box only. Is this a good idea? I'm in Southern KY and it can be below zero for a short time. I wonder if there could be any benefit to leaving the center frame in the bottom box out to allow more bees to be closer together. Any thoughts on that?
I have a couple hives that I left supers on, that's no big deal. Just make sure you remove the queen excluder or the queen will not be able to move up with the cluster. I would not remove any frames as the bees will cluster around frames of food. The bees in the center of the cluster stay warm and are able to eat as their bellies fill they move to the outside of cluster and a cold bees moves into the center. This process repeat all winter. I think the empty spot could be deadly for them.
Hi Jason. Have you ever tried the Paradise Beehives. They should work well in the cold.
Hey Eddie, I haven't tried their hives but I do have a couple polystyrene nucs. They are nice but in the summer months cause a lot of bearding.
Give one a try. It would be good viewing to see how they work in your climate. They work well in the Australian heat and cold. Check out Australian Honeybee they use them commercially.
Nice video, I have learned a lot from you this past year. im wondering if you have ever used moisture quilts and do you have any particular opinion about them. I lost my hive to moisture last year and I have quilts on my 3 hives this year. im in central PA so our weather is similar. again thanks for the great videos!!
Did the quilt boxes help?
How could does it get around there
So this year keep the bottom screen open? feed them lots of food..
If your in the North country where it gets cold, hell no. Leave a 2-3" opening like Jason had with a top ventilation hole.
I built a quilt box for my bees here in MN. It is like a feeder rim built out of 1x4's with three screened 1" vent holes. The bottom of the rim is supported plastic window screening which allows moisture through. On top of the screening I am placing 3" of wood shavings that will absorb moisture, insulate, and the holes on the sides allows moisture to evaporate. Remember the olden days before clothes dryers, people would hang their wet clothes on the cloth line outside and they would dry. ( not my good old days LOL).
@Tony Hackett I do leave my screened bottoms open year round and I have really good success rate by doing so. It's my experience bees can handle the cold way better than getting wet. The screened bottoms allow more air flow which helps combat the moisture. You will want a top entrance though and make sure it's as much towards the top of hive as possible.
I just watched your video I am going to try the stuff that you said I have my bees in 10 frame deep boxes with a medium super on them any input would be greatly appreciated. And I am not taking any honey off of my hives this year I am leaving it for them
Does type of sugar matter? White?brown? Etc.
Yes. White is what you want.
@@JCsBees by seeing this postci assume your got your page back from the hacker
Do you keep your sliding board under the screen in during the winter, partially out or all the way out?
I don't have any feeder rings. When it's warm, I feed my bees with a mason jar over the hole in the inner cover, and I leave an empty box on top of the inner cover order to enclose the jar which is topped with my telescoping cover. Can I put the news paper and sugar on top of the inner cover enclosed by the box like I do my sugar syrup? Or do I need to put it under the inner cover?
Thanks. I have really enjoyed your videos, you have helped me out countless times in the past.
You can surely add sugar to the top of the inner cover but I can't say it will do much for the moisture up there. It really needs to be below the inner cover. Maybe move your empty box below inner cover and use it as a feeding rig. Of course, the shallower the box the better. Also I would add an entrance right below inner cover for excess moisture to escape.
Glad to hear my videos are helping!
Jason, I'm confused about adding an entrance below the inner cover. Is this the cover inside the box with the message "this side up" that has an entrance in it. I was told to flip that upside down for the winter. Couldn't find the link to your Amazon store. I have a screened bottom board but the hive is about 18" above the ground. If I get hay bales, how close to the hive do I place them and do I place them around 3 sides with leaving the SE side open. I live in MA. Your review is appreciated.
First let me say every beekeeper has their own way of doing things. You can ask 10 beekeepers a question and get 12 answers. lol What you are descibing does sound like the inner cover and yes I would leave that entrance facing down but that's me.
Hay bales will work great as a wind block but you need to keep in mind that mice are drawn to them to keep warm. So I would allow enough room between hay bales and hive to walk. I would also use fence "T" stake to secure the hay bales. You wouldn't want the bales to blow into hives and knock them over. Hope this helps!
When do you winter the bees? How many months is it?
How thick the hive walls should be?
@Vyt Bbb Normally 3/4"
@@JCsBees so you got 3/4" walls and no extra insulation for winter, correct? Would it be ok for winters where temperature can sometimes go to - 20?
How many venom collect one box
Looks like its time to build some new equipment Brother.
Why's that? These still have a couple years life left, don't you think? lol I am considering going to all 5 framers so new equipment may be in the plans.
lol. The bees will spend all of their time producing propolis instead of honey. I am taking 8 5F Nucs into winter this year. They built up so fast over the last month that I probably could have moved them in to something bigger. I moved one on to a pallet yesterday to over winter doubles and they were pouring out and pissed off.
I may build a bunch of 8 frame boxes this winter and see if I like them better than 10's next year.
Well there is a market for propolis so maybe that is not a bad thing. lol I am also getting away from honey production and concentrating on nucs and queen sales anyway.
Something about this weather is making the bees a bit moody. lol I bumped one of my big hives the other day and bees poured out with an attitude. So I relate to your nuc situation. I have around 20 nucs to take through winter, each one is actually double 5 framers now. Have you overwintered nucs before?
No I have not over wintered NUC's before. This is my first year of beekeeping so you can understand my worries and anxiety going into winter.
Foragers are staying home, they can not gather any nectar or pollen, and as they get closer to eol, they get a lot more crankie, short temper, tired, and sore like me. Lot of these bees will bee dying off shortly from old age. I have had better luck with 8F than 10F. Had a lot of 10 F not filled out, mainly on the two sides. 8F filled completely out. Thay are also 18 lbs lighter..
Jason, You mentioning you leave your screen bottom open all year long. Have you ever lost bees in the winter doing this?
@Larry Bawcom No. Matter a fact I believe that leaving the screened bottom has boost my survival rate.
Lost my bees 3 winters in a row. I have a very active hive now and it was 30 last night. Last year I used 2 inch insulation on bottom and sides lat year I had a button and top entrance. They still were dead in the spring. I want this hive to make it this winter. What can I do?
I think tilting the hive's backside up a little can also help. If moisture does condense it might run off to the front of the hive and down the front sidewall. Did you do an oxalic acid dribble after the brood has ceased? Good luck and try to block the cold winds with some bales or fencing.
Russell is right, tilting the hive forward is a great idea and can help a lot. Besides setting the hive up for winter you need to manage mites, have you been doing that? Using the Dribble Method is a great suggestion too.
@@JCsBees Jason can it be to cool out when you do a dribble? Should it be above 40 or 50? Getting the bees wet when its cold outside is probably not a good idea. Not sure how warm it's going to get here in MN later this month. Thanks.
How did they do this spring?
i do not think 3:1 sugar water is not possible, at least not able to dissolve and keep sugar in solution at temperatures below 65f.
Hi, i don’t know if anyone is going to answer this but i just found a queen bee in my house, she probably came inside with fire wood and its winter. I gave her some sugarwater and i brought her to outside but she almost died because it was too cold. I know its just a bee but i dont want it to suffer so what i can do? Do i just kill it so she doesent suffer, do i keep it as a pet(well how) or do i let it go outside and let her die? Or is there another option?
I'd guess you found a queen yellow jacket. Kill it!!
So you prefer dry sugar not sugar candy why is that
Sure do! Dry sugar is absorbent and will draw any moisture in the hive right to it. So instead of it just being extra food it's also keeping them dry.
Jason, would you tell me please if it is necessary to split a bee hive for winter?
No! You do not have to split it before winter for it to survive.
Jason Chrisman, thank you!
Hi, i want to buy a bee ? What you suggest, its a first time
What part of Ohio you live Jason ?
I am in central Ohio, right on the edge of the Knox/Licking county line. Where are you?
I live in southern West Virginia but I’m working in Ohio right now. Near Woodsfield, Ohio.
I’m adding the insulated top cover this year. After loosing all my hives last winter I’m really nervous this year. Took extra precautions I didn’t do last year. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the videos. If you still have my email can you shoot me a msg when ceracell has product in USA or Canada ?
The insulated cover will help for sure. Did you figure out why they died last year? Were the bees wet? Did they still have food? Could the cluster have split on a warm day and didn't make it back clustering before temps dropped?
If your on FaceBook, Ceracell just started a page for the US. Here's a link facebook.com/CeracellUSA/
You may also follow my bee page as I do share Ceracell info on there a lot.
They broke cluster lots of stores left over. There was a warm spell in February. Huge losses up here. Up to 60% in some areas. Some people gave up. 200 hives came out with 12. One farm lost 900 out of the 2600. Its a shame. I’m not certain exactly why but that’s what I’ve heard. Pretty tough to recover from those kind of looses. Mine I think were a comb of mistakes. Not enough time is my biggest but that has been better this year for me. I feel well prepared. Lots stores supplements treatments. Wind blocks ect. Fingers crossed.
Did you treat for mites or through a test verify you had none last year?
sadly no. I used quick strips year before last and they killed my queens which made for an emergency run for queens. I thought I would try natural approach. This year I used a different product. apivar?
One info sir , there is a chapter in Quran called , The Bee's. Please read it
www.clearquran.com/016.html
DIDO
Maybe do not insulate the hive this year??
Iv lost around 30 thousand dollars in bees last 2 years
Great video! Thank you!