🔵Cheap way to insulate and prevent condensation!
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- Опубліковано 8 лис 2019
- Testing out some insulation and talking about the winter cluster. Here was the same colony in spring and we kept them from swarming • 🔵 Swarming, and how to...
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Here is the same colony back when we had 400 subscribers. It was our first video that did very well. They were feeling a little urge to swarm but we curbed that real quick. Thanks, everyone and I hope the videos help you enjoy bees as much as Laurel and I do! ua-cam.com/video/RX-JxsOvb80/v-deo.html.
Kamon, great stuff, I always look forward to your videos. Thanks for keeping them short and to the point. Great for all levels of beekeepers. As you said a healthy colony with enough food will make it through the winter. This is true even here in northern Illinois and we use moisture boards with lots of success, without wrapping them, as well as with insulated candy boards or feeder rims. We should talk sometime about how we are also able to store boxes with frames over them through the winter. Thanks again for your time and knowledge.
Could you share how you are able to store your frames?
You Kids are ALWAYS a joy to watch !
I’ve never understood the reasoning for top entrances. Heat rises and escapes and in winter it could mean loosing a hive. Bees have to work so much harder to keep it warm.
This is the Oklahoma guy from south of you in the Cookeville-Sparta Tn.
I use Advantic wood for a top, no cleats needed because it won't warp. I have a shim I put on first for sugar feeding with a screened hole for ventilation.
With the flat board I put a sheet of 2" polystyrene on top and a cinder block cap (2"×8"×16") to wait it down. Caps are one dollar at Lowe next to the cinder blocks.
I am a hobby beek few hives. I use the mountain camp method of 2 sheets of black and white news paper with 4lbs dry cane sugar ontop with a pollen patty underneath. A 1inch blue foam board ontop of that with a burlap sack for more insulation with a medium or deep hive body. My hives are backed up to south side of my barn with straw bales inside 55 gal black contractor bags for windbreaks, works for me here in Indiana. Thanks for the informative vids
Kamon, I hate to tell you that I done this a couple of years ago. I put white Styrofoam insulation on the side of my hives with screws and fender washers. It took time to cut them and to put them on.
Last year I used the clear bubble wrap from walmart which was way faster and easier to put on with thumb tags and to take off. I went around with it , til the a roll was gone. After the winter season just roll it up and it is easy to store. With both of those insulators I ended up with mildew on the outside of the hive between the box and insulation. Will do the bubble wrap again because of ease of putting it on and storage and the fact that I can reuse it.
I know you do not have any inner cover, but I used the inner cover that have a screened hole in the center then I put a feeder ring with screened holes on it and then comes the outer cover.
Before putting the inner cover on , I use a feeder ring without vent and my bees are getting a block of hardened sugar. Worked well last year.
Good looking hive
I'm trying the 1" foam board this cool season here in South Louisiana I installed them last week because condensation is my biggest problem. I usually just tilt my hives with 1 1/2 " shim in the back to help the water flow to front then down and out the screened bottom board. But I'm also going to leave it on next summer to see if it drops the temps at the top of the box. This past summer it averaged 106F in the top of my hives using a screened top inner cover with a 3" shim with ventilation holes and a telescoping cover.
Great minds think alike I am going to try some in summer also!
I am in Northwest Minnesota and using 2 inches of foam board with no wrap on the hives and they are doing fantastic. No moisture in the hives.
I am also using an inner cover with a small notch for a top entrance/vent. I also leave the lower entrance wide open, no entrance reducer. Hardware cloth mouse guards.
Another great video. Thanks Mr. Reynolds for helping everyone with you humorous educational tips, tricks and even some experiments.
I opened my hives at -10 F once to add sugar bricks, Several flew out and tried to sting me !I use colony quilts for covers, with a medium empty super of dry straw on top of a screened innercover. I put the foam board in the lid, and a upper entrance.
Ha Kamon u do a wonderful job with the videos. I live in Virginia I have wrap my hives before but not all the time reason is what you said Ten is colder then Virginia, I know a bee keeper he lives in Pa. That is a real cold state with lots of snow and Mr Dunn does not wrap his hives, So that gives me a peace of mind about not wrapping my hives.
what is the temp there in Ten. As a moister blanket I use bed pillows that I have found on trash piles when people have died, also I stuff pillow cases with wood chips every thing works great. But I also put a big candy board on the hive for food if they run out, the candy board gives me a peace of mind, plus the moister goes in that as well. Thanks again for the video it was great
Perfect explanation. The old tiny detail I'd add in is since you're breaking the popilis seal, your lid is also much more likely to blow off in high wind, so a strap or a hefty rock should be used for a hive exposed to wind.
Use a propane torch, melt propolis around the perimeter of the lid and stick it back on.
Thanks for the video Kamon and tell Laura thanks for the giggles, the only thing missing was the cat!
You are 2 funny. Love all the information you take time to share with everyone. Thank you
Thanks Kamon!! I'll be heading to Loews as soon as I get out of the woods. Deer season opened this morning and it was 26°!!! Its supposed to get into the 50's this afternoon. A perfect time to get that done!!
Say hi to Bambi for me!
Great video,
I have used the insulation in the top lid for several years. I also leave it in there year around because it also reduces to the hear in the hot summer down here in North Alabama.
Just a though
I do the same thing, except I just place the blue board on top of the outer cover and use a couple bricks to keep it in place. As you mention, it’s not really critical here in Tenn, but I figure if I can help them retain some heat, then their stores will last longer.
Great Teaching Kamon!
Thanks for the video
Way to complicated Kamon. I just bring em inside, put em under the bed, moisture rises, good for my sinuses. Sometimes have to lean over down there and “shush, grandma gonna hear you, make you sleep outside”. She say “what that hummin’?”, I say “just that ole frijjerader”.
I thought I was the only one. Glad to hear it's not just me!
Nosey-ass gramma.
@Paul Christu and I thought I was the only person to keep a few hives under a bed!
Hey kamon, glad you did this video. I did this a few weeks ago in southeast PA and am a little curious/ concerned. Bees are actively chewing on the styrofoam. I can hear them chewing and when I lift the cover they are clustered on it and chewing. Its sitting on plywood with two screened vents. One open hole for round top feeder is where they are chewing.
Hopefully nothing bad just an observation of mine
I had that problem last year. Once they ate through the sugar they started on the styrofoam. This year I am using insulation foam with foil on one side and putting the foil side next to the sugar mix so they can't chew on it.
Cheap shammy cloth from auto parts store. It sucks ANY moisture without dropping it. It's like a SPONGE & soaks a lot.
I'm a crazy goofball as well. 😋 I enjoy your presentation style. A few beekeeper on UA-camrs come off as being smug and pushing product and their classes hard.
My hives are in New England. Additionally, I attach a 2" rigid insulation piece on the side facing north.. Then wrap black landscape cloth around them just for solar gain.
Thanks !!
2nd winter beekeeper.,went into winter last year with 7 hives, 5 survived, did the whole winterizing thing,candy board...this year 15 hives, I'm not doing anything this winter, each hive is 2 deeps, at least 14-16 Frames of honey in each hive.upstate NY😎😎😎
Michigan main thing is leaving bottom entrance wide open . I can't see a difference with upper entrance some of mine have it some don't . Mouse guard's forsure . 2" of foam stops the drip puts it on the walls where bees can use it
I use 16 inch reflectix bubble wrap under the lid for same reason. Easy to work with being one dimension is already cut. LOL Plus I angle my hives a little so if there is any, it runs downs the side not drop straight down on bees.
Chimney effect pushs moist air out upper entrance.
Greetings from Uzbekistan
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Thanks Kamon, am getting alot of moisture buildup in the inside of the lid. We are in Uganda that is pretty warm all the time. Could this same method of insulation with a vented top board also work in a tropical environment?
I think it can… some above comments -and they said.. they use it during the hotter summer weather 👌
Nice video .
I would have an concern using the foam board etc or Styrofoam.
I used styrofoam to put on top of my hive throughout the season to keep the outer hive cover cooler. What I seen was that there was always water droplets between the styrofoam and the hive cover even in 90 F or higher weather. I found out that the styrofoam I used was not water nor moister proof. Makes me wonder what it would do inside the hive when moister builds up between the insulation and outer cover and when the droplets getting bigger they may seep through the insulation and fall unto bees since this kind of insulation is not really absorbent .
It's pretty wet where I live and we use quilt boards underneath the rigid insulation. Not styrofoam, but that purple 1" insulation they sell at Home depot. That way if any water does condense on the rigid insulation (it does regularly) then it just drips down onto the quilt box and not the bees. The quilt box is also vented so it can dry out.
On the super cheap, I understand that one can use recently harvested dry lavender as an insulation that also absorbs moisture without rotting. We have year-round lavender in Calif. but I imagine other plants local to one's hives can be substituted. The anti-rotting is the trick, methinks.
Hi Kamon, even though you don’t have killing cold in TN (I abbreviated to avoid figuring out how many Es Ss and Ns to put in Tennessee) it is condensation, not cold, that kills bees, at least in my experience. The cluster will keep heat in pretty cold weather, unless they get wet. So if you have cool, wet winters some insulation is a good idea. Ian’s reflective bubble wrap may be enough in TN. I have started using it year round to hep with heat in our 100 degree Julys as well as to cut down condensation.
That is what I have heard but that hasn't been my experience. I will check on my hives in freezing temps and there will be moisture frozen underneath the lid. I am sure up north it is a big deal.
Yeah I am eager to see if the insulation helps with bearding in summer!
It may depend on climate. The place I lived East of Portland, OR got 80 inches of rain/year but not a lot of freezing weather, so cold and damp was the rule most of the year. Here in Eastern Washington the winters are drier than that (here in Walla Walla we get about 20 inches of rain and winter temps are more variable, so moisture is not as much of an issue. Summers are dry (both precip and humidity) and hot, with 100 degree days being common.
Kamon I cut mine with a multifunctional tool with the round blade. Cuts it like butter.
I use a hot wire cutter on foam panels, cuts like a hot knife through butter :-)
i use the r13 board on my hives as we get 15- 20 degree nites. it has been 80 degrees here.
Put Some silica bag , it will suck all the moist.
What was going on with the Bees on the side of the Box LOL. Were they waiting to get you autograph?? Great Video, good luck with the honey sandwiches :)
Good.. bees naturaly Live trees top Side always closet warm.. down Side open..co² moisture Gone down O² cold air goes up. German beekeper using This natural positions hives .
Bees on the side of the hive at 6:32!
Haha hey Thomas! yeah, a knot fell out of that blue box when I built it. I just left it and they seem to like it.
Hello
Hotdogs everyone ! Ha ha ha
Nothing wrong with a good dog!
@@unclebobsbees4899 There is a problem when your use to eating food made from a Woman who can cook like a southern goddess!
@@kamonreynolds Dang that is a problem. Then again she has to show off her skills so you won't be in the 'dog' house for long.😁
What part of Tennessee are you in? I'm in Chattanooga.
this is so important, a balancing act. that is the key. My hives die here not from cold, but moisture. of course they need food to keep warm, and no winter bee mites. that is the biggest killer, winter mites feeding on the fat bodies inside the winter bee. Summer? not so much but winter bees die with very low mite loads at -0 weather, or even 20 degree weather. kill the mites in august and september here in central washington.
Yup those dang parasites are the worst and often the most underestimated!
What did you use or how did you cut that Foam board that straight ??
A table saw. It is best to paint them or the bees or ants will chew them. Also if left in the sun it will degrade the boards
Quilt box.
Cold weather absolutely kills bees in TN! The higher elevations are brutal on apiaries in the winter months.
Weak small hives yes. Strong well fed clusters no. Winter preparation starts now.
my breeder yard is at 4200' elevation in east TN. I have lost the strongest stock due to huge temperature fluxes both going into and coming out of winter. our liquid feeding is guaranteed death after mid September, and the rest of the winter combating snow and moisture issues until pollen hits mid may. its much more complicated/aggravating than keeping in the lowlands of TN. I'm not being argumentative or trolling here, but more so informing that the higher elevations of TN and other Appalachian states. require preparations very similar to those used in North Dakota or Canada.
my honey yard at 2000' above sea level in Mountain City has almost none of the above complications other than some "try hard" hive beetles.
Thanks for the video Kamon, do you run solid bottom boards?
Hi Carrol yes I do run solids
Screen bottom board or solid?
As a business solids make more sense. they both work but screened Bottom boards give you more options
Hot diggie dog Kamon I'm in for a few ! What time is the barbeque at !
Maybe ian would make the trip down for some dogs now that his girls are put to bed !
Hey Kamon, I know this is four years old but I'm wondering how the foam board worked out for you and if you are still using it or if you have moved on to something else?
The foam board works great if you paint them! Not needed in TN but they help!
@@kamonreynolds Thank you.
2020 now...can you let us know how this did. Do you plan on doing it again?
Worked very well. In TN we don't have super cold winter so a healthy cluster and plenty of food is all you need. However, I think the colonies appreciated the added insulation quite a bit
Just Wood no insulation. Swedich beekeeper.
You crush the bees without even noticing it...
Camera mic is so good you could hear each one crunch
How about a moisture board?
It will work some folk use a shim and pine shavings and some folks use fabric (Quilt Board).
Hi Thomas! They probably would work great but this will have a higher R value and is quicker to fool with so that why I did it.
Unfortunately the US appears to be at least 40 years behind Europe when it come to insulating beehives. We have poly hives, that are a competitive price against wood, which I believe are quite costly across the pond. These are 100g/Litre to 160g/Litre depending on the company you use, better r values than wood. They insulate against the heat in summer and insulate against the cold in winter. But for those using wood we use 2 inch PIR (Kingspan/Celotex/Recticel) between the crownboard (inner cover with feed hole closed) and telescopic roof. The insulation above the inner cover eliminates the moisture building up, there are no drops of water falling onto the cluster. Also we don't have upper entrances, this means the cluster remains warm. Moisture accumulates on the inside walls of the hive, giving the bees some moisture for any crystallised honey. The cluster will be looser and less stores will be consumed. Our weather conditions may be different, but some parts of the US have very little snow or if they do it won't be for long periods meaning upper entrances are obsolete. But I do know that there are a number of US beekeepers whose hives are covered in 3 feet of snow for prolonged periods and only use lower entrances. Poly hives also produce 10 to 15% more honey than wood.
@@kamonreynolds Okay and I assume the number of hives you have there is the cost factor too. Thanks again for anther video and keep them buzzing.
@@beehinde I went with polystyrene this year after 2 years of dead outs and just decided to try something completely different. I used the one style from Superior Bee out of Ohio and the Paradise Honey style from the Fins. I bought both locally in N.E. Ohio and use the 8/9 frame variant used in Australia.
The BetterBee hive stand for 10 frame matches this perfect and had to get lengthened tubes from BB on the other stand. Only doing 2 this year and we will see. Do you use this style of hive?