Thanks for the DXO reminder, I ran a folder through the software after watching this, as you say it’s quick and easy, I think I will be using this again after playing with other slower programs 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
It's nice to see MFT getting some serious attention and producing some serious results. I've been chasing a photo like your osprey with fish for some time with my Lumix G9 and 100-400 as a retirement hobby so the inspiration is greatly appreciated.
You're probably right since the G9 is contrast detect autofocus and the OM-1 is phase detect, however, working with the most recent firmware updates I've had good luck follow focusing osprey, eagles, great blue herons, pelicans and even Least Terns for still photographs. I don't shoot video. Right now I seem to be more of an impediment to the camera's performance rather than the other way around. However, I followed your choice of the OM-1 over the Sony A1 with great interest and I'm glad to see someone of your skill set producing professional results with the MFT format.
I have been using DXO Pure Raw 2 from mid August and have found it fantastic, so simple and quick, save as a DNG and finish editing in your favorite software. Another great Video Mike. Cheers From New Zealand
Very good Mike, thank you. I looked at the various non-subscription software and plumped for ON1 Photo Raw 2023, which will be available from the 10th. I hope the Denoising and sharpening will be as good as DXO.
Hi Mike. Like you I find the noise quality on the OM-1 quite impressive. I have taken to shooting in manual mode. I set my aperture and shutter speed according to the circumstances and set the ISO to auto. So far the results have been very good although I have yet to get to 25600
Mike> I was finally able to download the new DxO module for the new OM-1 format, so you might try again and see if you can grab hold of it. I LOVE watching your videos, by the way. I've learned a lot from you and have improved my bird photography. Nice work.
Mike, I use DXO as well and now on OM1, I stopped it renaming my files DXOetc- scroll down the choices box and you can change it, my files come out as XXXXXXXX-ORF , not ideal but better than the other. Thanks for another great vid, always the best watch of the week :-)
Very interesting as usual Mike, thank you for posting. A pity you didn't have much success at Martin Mere which is reasonably close to where I live. When you mentioned it in the video, I was hoping there would be some 'Martin Mere hints and tips' but hey ho 🙂. With software like DXO and Topaz these days, you have admirably demonstrated that the way to go is to shoot with whatever settings the situation demands when it comes to ISO levels, good stuff.
I also find the results of using high ISO differ in dim light and moderately good light with the G9. I feel it has something to do with the quality of the light rather than its brightness. If it is all black shadows, black cat in the coal hole, it won't work as well as when there is sufficient contrast. I gather they trade off dynamic range to reduce noise for high ISO at the hardware stage. As a radiometrologist I could wobble on for hours on the pros and cons of sensor size but from my point of view the advantages of the 4/3 sensor for wildlife far outweigh its often exaggerated disadvantages. For BIF I am far more concerned that the shutter is fast enough and will push the ISO if that is necessary. Our MFT lenses need to be stopped down to sharpen, f/8 the usual thing, so long as not wide open (nice for people portraits) works. I "shoot for the jpeg" but that does not mean I only use the jpeg, however every change we make to the jpeg settings that alters the exposure value (and most do, WB, metering mode, etc, ad naus) will alter the raw because that uses the same exposure value.
I agree with everything you said in this video. I have had the same results with the OM-1 though I don’t have DXO. I get good results with Topaz. Since we’re on the subject of high ISO, I would offer the opinion that the Olympus M1 mark I, II, or III does not behave this way. The noise with the sensors has weird color patches that I have never been able to successfully correct in post.
Mike as you know I use DxO Pure Raw on 95% of my images but I would not dream of converting to jpeg, I presume this was for convenience in the video. I find it is better to cancel the sharpening on the conversion, I leave everything else as automatic and Deep Prime. The thing is if the sharpening is applied and it turns out to be too much (which does occur with Olympus files e.g. wet plumage or many macro shots with the 60mm lens) then you are pretty well stuck, much better I would suggest to sharpen in ACR/LR.
ive been too gwash many times, have often been caught out by the early morning shoots with birds coming down with little or no light ..so this year did 2 afternoon shoots , so much better ..
Is OM1 better at high ISO compared to previous models or it is the improvement in DXO pure raw that makes it possible? Please clear my confusion. Thanks.
My default setting with the Em1x was 400 iso, with the OM-1 it is 1600 iso. 2 stops improvement. DxO Pureraw will improve both of them, but I have never done a side by side test.
Sorry Mike, despite that i use the OM-1 and DxO SW, this time i don´t agree with you. 25000ISO, I would never go to ... I still stop automatically @3200ISO and manually allow 6400ISO if absolutely necessary. YES, that means, that the first and last 20minutes of the day belong to fullframe. So be it ... OMDS has other advantages like 2000mm if necessary (a bit soft, but it realy is worth a try and came out acceptable) and it is not for FF. Anyway, keep enjoying your time out!
Not something I will do every day Arthur, but I was pleased with the result. 2000mm I have never had any success with, but I suspect some 150-400mm are better than others. Hard to prove.
DNG is Adobe's raw format. JPEG is a lossy compression of an image file. My guess the reason why he decided to export in jpeg was because he wasn't planning on processing the images any further, and didn't want to waste any more storage space.
@@HaiDHaiYena You're correct but to be clear, you don't have to use Adobe processing tools to use the DNG format. DNG can be processed by many other non-Adobe software tools.
I just upgraded to DXO Photolab 6; which has the newest version of DeepPrime Noise Reduction - and - Wide Color Gamut. It is like getting a sensor upgrade for my Panasonic G9!!
Thanks for the DXO reminder, I ran a folder through the software after watching this, as you say it’s quick and easy, I think I will be using this again after playing with other slower programs 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Glad it helped!
Office chairs! Love it.
I have been in hides with air conditioning too.
With the combination of Deep Prime and the new sensor. The OM-1 is very impressive in low light.
I confirm
Yes excellent.
It's nice to see MFT getting some serious attention and producing some serious results. I've been chasing a photo like your osprey with fish for some time with my Lumix G9 and 100-400 as a retirement hobby so the inspiration is greatly appreciated.
The AF on the G9 is not so good for fast birds.
You're probably right since the G9 is contrast detect autofocus and the OM-1 is phase detect, however, working with the most recent firmware updates I've had good luck follow focusing osprey, eagles, great blue herons, pelicans and even Least Terns for still photographs. I don't shoot video. Right now I seem to be more of an impediment to the camera's performance rather than the other way around. However, I followed your choice of the OM-1 over the Sony A1 with great interest and I'm glad to see someone of your skill set producing professional results with the MFT format.
I bookmarked that place shortly before the pandemic, then forgot all about it. Must try and get there next summer.
Yes worth it.
Amazing use case for not holding back on the ISO and getting the shot. And then unleash DXO onto them. Useful advice as always.
Thanks.
Great tips! Thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
I have been using DXO Pure Raw 2 from mid August and have found it fantastic, so simple and quick, save as a DNG and finish editing in your favorite software. Another great Video Mike. Cheers From New Zealand
Great to hear!
Nice shots! I got a couple of images of an osprey on my recent trip to Florida. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great video Mike as always. Well done😀🙏
Glad you enjoyed it
Very good Mike, thank you. I looked at the various non-subscription software and plumped for ON1 Photo Raw 2023, which will be available from the 10th.
I hope the Denoising and sharpening will be as good as DXO.
They are probably all excellent, but some easier to use.
Just subscribed on your channel sir! Great work
Welcome aboard!
Another excellent video Mike. I have not tried DXO yet. I must give it a try.
Give it a try Roger, it works miracles with mFT !
Try the latest Topas Photo A1. Output similar, but keeps the file names as I want them. Slightly more options, but not complicated.
@@MikeLaneFRPS disagree Mike Topaz AI is overdoning (at least for now) Things, Topaz Denoise /Sharpen standalone is much morgen sensitiv to adjust.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Thanks
@@ImagesWithPassion I agree. Standalone is better for high ISO. But is it as good as DXO Pure raw?
Hi Mike. Like you I find the noise quality on the OM-1 quite impressive. I have taken to shooting in manual mode. I set my aperture and shutter speed according to the circumstances and set the ISO to auto. So far the results have been very good although I have yet to get to 25600
I should change to auto ISO, but after 50 years it is hard to do something different to what you are used to.
Mike> I was finally able to download the new DxO module for the new OM-1 format, so you might try again and see if you can grab hold of it. I LOVE watching your videos, by the way. I've learned a lot from you and have improved my bird photography. Nice work.
Oh... never mind! If I had just listened a bit longer I would have heard that you've already got it!!!
Thanks.
Mike, I use DXO as well and now on OM1, I stopped it renaming my files DXOetc- scroll down the choices box and you can change it, my files come out as XXXXXXXX-ORF , not ideal but better than the other. Thanks for another great vid, always the best watch of the week :-)
Thats how I have it set. It shortens the old extension, but still changes the file name.
@@MikeLaneFRPS I just knock the ORF off :-)
Very interesting as usual Mike, thank you for posting. A pity you didn't have much success at Martin Mere which is reasonably close to where I live. When you mentioned it in the video, I was hoping there would be some 'Martin Mere hints and tips' but hey ho 🙂. With software like DXO and Topaz these days, you have admirably demonstrated that the way to go is to shoot with whatever settings the situation demands when it comes to ISO levels, good stuff.
Not done well there since the Link hide was removed.
Would you say there's a big improvement between the em1 mkiii (same sensor as em1 x I believe?) and the new sensor in the om1?
My default setting with the em1 mk2 was 400iso. With the om1 it is 1600 iso. 2 stops better.
I also find the results of using high ISO differ in dim light and moderately good light with the G9. I feel it has something to do with the quality of the light rather than its brightness. If it is all black shadows, black cat in the coal hole, it won't work as well as when there is sufficient contrast. I gather they trade off dynamic range to reduce noise for high ISO at the hardware stage.
As a radiometrologist I could wobble on for hours on the pros and cons of sensor size but from my point of view the advantages of the 4/3 sensor for wildlife far outweigh its often exaggerated disadvantages.
For BIF I am far more concerned that the shutter is fast enough and will push the ISO if that is necessary. Our MFT lenses need to be stopped down to sharpen, f/8 the usual thing, so long as not wide open (nice for people portraits) works.
I "shoot for the jpeg" but that does not mean I only use the jpeg, however every change we make to the jpeg settings that alters the exposure value (and most do, WB, metering mode, etc, ad naus) will alter the raw because that uses the same exposure value.
A very useful video Mike. I am visiting Horne mill next week. Can you remember the what 3 words you used?
Sorry Gordon. I did not keep it.
@MikeLaneFRPS Thanks Mike
Great video again Mike! , FYI in the latest version of DxO you can select file name, so no more DeepPrime names ;-)
Thanks Poul, but I have the latest version and it still changes the name, but not by so much.
Gosh wonderful shots. We are not far from Leicestershire - are you able to share the 3 words - we wd love to go there. Don’t worry if it’s a problem.
///commutes.loudness.tomb
I agree with everything you said in this video. I have had the same results with the OM-1 though I don’t have DXO. I get good results with Topaz. Since we’re on the subject of high ISO, I would offer the opinion that the Olympus M1 mark I, II, or III does not behave this way. The noise with the sensors has weird color patches that I have never been able to successfully correct in post.
Topaz and DxO not much in it. Both excellent.
It would be interesting to know if the DXO software improves on images taken with the OM-1 and the 100-400mm lens.
You can download a trial and try, I bet the answer is yes.
@@edwardrussell5413 The answer would be no because I have neither.
It will improve every camera. It reduces noise. The higher the iso the more noticeable the improvement.
@@tarjei99 well if you had it would :-)
@@MikeLaneFRPS I wondered since you did compare the 100-400 and the 150-400.
Mike as you know I use DxO Pure Raw on 95% of my images but I would not dream of converting to jpeg, I presume this was for convenience in the video. I find it is better to cancel the sharpening on the conversion, I leave everything else as automatic and Deep Prime. The thing is if the sharpening is applied and it turns out to be too much (which does occur with Olympus files e.g. wet plumage or many macro shots with the 60mm lens) then you are pretty well stuck, much better I would suggest to sharpen in ACR/LR.
I hope I said in the film that I normally convert to DNG, but as I was not keeping any of those test shots I went to jpg.
@Jonathan
Try DXO Lab !
No oversharped images + a very good lights&shadow control.
ive been too gwash many times, have often been caught out by the early morning shoots with birds coming down with little or no light ..so this year did 2 afternoon shoots , so much better ..
Is OM1 better at high ISO compared to previous models or it is the improvement in DXO pure raw that makes it possible? Please clear my confusion. Thanks.
My default setting with the Em1x was 400 iso, with the OM-1 it is 1600 iso. 2 stops improvement. DxO Pureraw will improve both of them.
@@MikeLaneFRPS Great. That is what I wanted to know. Thanks a lot.
Hello Mike informative video as usual, could you recommend an Evening or Mornings session at Horn Mills ie Sun direction ? Have to be next year now👍
I have only been there once on a cloudy morning so do not have a view on this, but others tell me there is nothing in it.
I highly recommend the photographers ephimeris, with it you can check the sun direction for any given date, time of day etc.
Great Video as always Mike. One question is how does EM1-x compare to OM-1 when using DXO Pure Raw 2?
My default setting with the Em1x was 400 iso, with the OM-1 it is 1600 iso. 2 stops improvement. DxO Pureraw will improve both of them, but I have never done a side by side test.
@@MikeLaneFRPS OK, thanks.
Sorry Mike, despite that i use the OM-1 and DxO SW, this time i don´t agree with you. 25000ISO, I would never go to ... I still stop automatically @3200ISO and manually allow 6400ISO if absolutely necessary. YES, that means, that the first and last 20minutes of the day belong to fullframe. So be it ... OMDS has other advantages like 2000mm if necessary (a bit soft, but it realy is worth a try and came out acceptable) and it is not for FF. Anyway, keep enjoying your time out!
Not something I will do every day Arthur, but I was pleased with the result. 2000mm I have never had any success with, but I suspect some 150-400mm are better than others. Hard to prove.
25000 ISO wow seems like a dream.
Yes indeed.
What is the difference between DNG and Jpeg, please?
DNG is Adobe's raw format. JPEG is a lossy compression of an image file.
My guess the reason why he decided to export in jpeg was because he wasn't planning on processing the images any further, and didn't want to waste any more storage space.
@@HaiDHaiYena You're correct but to be clear, you don't have to use Adobe processing tools to use the DNG format. DNG can be processed by many other non-Adobe software tools.
DNG is a raw format created by Adobe.
Thanks all.
@@HaiDHaiYena I've also noticed the processed DXO RAW files are huge
I just upgraded to DXO Photolab 6; which has the newest version of DeepPrime Noise Reduction - and - Wide Color Gamut. It is like getting a sensor upgrade for my Panasonic G9!!
Good to hear.