I neglected to mention one other 'option' for tillers. Most tillers have 'forward rotation' tines, but you can get some with 'reverse rotation'. I have more information about this and other details on our website: tractortimewithtim.com/2018/03/19/choose-the-right-tiller-for-your-compact-tractor/
In addition to that Tim, some of the new County Line tillers at Tractor Supply manufactured by Tarter, are switchable between forward or reverse rotation. To switch directions takes some tools to accomplish, but you do have the option. As always, great video! And yes, buy her a camera mount!
The "reverse"tillers are for tilling under stones or big humps of grass and the loos ground is putting over it. ua-cam.com/video/qLm5yN_01JA/v-deo.html
All tractor pto shafts do not always turn in the same direction, my Ebro A30L turns anticlockwise, so do most pasquali tracters and there are many others like earlier Valpadana. Having a reversable option is not so good as the tines would have to be straight out from the disc carriers, if you look at most tiller the tines come out at an angle and lock against each other to help with rigidity.
Tim, I wanna thank you and your wife for taking the time and making these very helpful, informative videos on compact tractors and compact tractor implements. You have saved me hours, countless times, so today I thought it was time to say thank you!
Hi Tim. I have watched hundreds of videos and many on reviews and I must say this was one of the best reviews on anything I personally have seen. You were very precise, factual and you did not babble aimlessly about non-pertinent information. Great job! God bless you and the wife!
Needed this video a couple months ago! Bought the Chinese tiller from agri supply and it was cheaper than tractor supply. But I love it. Tilled a small garden to begin with and planted watermelons, carrots, and potatoes.
Nice informative video, Re slipping clutch transmition shaft, if you are not using the slipping clutch drive shaft often they stick, any slight moisture that may get in starts oxidization(rust) on the shiney metal discs that soon rust even with normal air humidity so its always best to check with a couple of prize barrs to make sure it slips before you start. Quite often you can tell the different types of drive by looking at the cover, the gear drive usually has an outward dimple between the top and bottom gears, this is to give clearence for the nut holding the centre gear on gear drives, with chain drives this is not needed.
Hi Tim, I actually own a BX25D Kubota (very similar to your Jonny 1025). I want to thank you for showing your audiences the different products, how they are used, and how you use yours. I learned a lot about sub-compact tractors for you. Thank You !!!
Thanks for all the information. I've been toying with the idea of getting a tiller for my new JD2038R. If the snow ever melts here in Maine I'll be tiller shopping.
Another week or two and my tiller will get to work. Hope yesterday's snow is the last one till next winter. Ground is very soft so we need some sun. Great video.
Good video Tim. I've owned an ancient Howard P50 "Select-a-Tilth" tiller for several years (and don't know how I "lived" without it!) Always used "walk-behind, rear tine" tiller(s) before, but there is NO comparison! One comment I'd like to make is that a "forward-rotating" tiller, while it may not deliver as fine a tilth as "rearward-rotating" models, has one major advantage over the "backwards" tillers: it will "drive" a stuck tractor out of trouble. I have "stuck" my 2WD tractor, a heavy Allis-Chalmers 5040, lifted the tiller for better traction (to no effect) then discovered that by engaging the rotating tiller with the ground, it will provide enough fwd thrust to get outta "trouble." I must take exception to the claim that chain-drive tillers are superior to gear drive. My first 3-point tiller (also a Howard) was chain-driven and was a constant headache: Chains not only stretch, but they also wear out faster---especially if sand inevitably finds its way into the chain box--and the chain's tensioner "shoe" must be kept in nearly-perfect adjustment or "all heck breaks loose" in that box! And opening a dirt/mud-encrusted housing in the field (even if you happen to have all the proper tools, and an oil-drain pan with you---which is highly unlikely) is not recommended. This means a trip back to the garage, which, depending upon distance is time-consuming and frustrating (especially with narrow planting "windows" and "weather" moving in....) Chains aren't very expensive, but if your sprockets are worn that is an expensive proposition! There are good reasons why manufacturers have opted to build with gears (even tho that is undoubtedly more expensive than chain/sprocket const.) and I think it's because they "got tired of" warrantied chain-driven tillers being returned for repairs/adjustments.
I use a Tar River Implement chain drive 50 inch tiller on my BX and love it. Never heard of the brand before but the dealer we got the tractor from let us have it brand new for $1250.
I have found that one of the best ways to check a hard used tiller is not the tines but the discs they are bolted to, the tines are easily replacable as they wear out and also break but changing the discs is a lot harder to do, so check how much the side corners are rounded over arround the edges, you can compare that to the part directly under the tine.
Speaking of tine wear: I had the good fortune to find/buy an old Howard P50 that someone, when the tines were not yet worn, had welded three "rows" of "hard-surfacing rod" on the top (shaft side) and one row along the leading edges on the opposite side of the tines---they will not wear out in MY lifetime! But Derek is absolutely correct: look carefully at the horizontal portions of the tines BEFORE you even consider purchasing a used tiller---those tines have a tale to tell! (any "rounding" indicates a whole lotta "rubbing...")
I have a 1025 and a JD tiller. I've used it all over the acreage. From the garden to the rose garden and water way/dry creek. Yes it is handy. I use it as a counter balance sometimes and other times I use my large mower. Powered tillers are handy.
Thanks for the info! I've only, once, rented a tiller for my 1026r and it did an awesome job for the job it had to perform... far better than I had originally expected of it. I don't have enough use for one right now, to warrant buying one, but I hope to in the future.
I know I've brought this up to you before, but thought its worth mentioning again. With my Woods tiller, they used a single bolt and rely on compression to keep the tines in place. They came lose and I had a hard time getting them realigned and wound up back to the dealer to get them tightened back into place. Where as a shear bolt design that your tiller looks like it uses would be a much easier fix. Maybe I just don't yet have the "know how" to get my system working properly, time will tell.
The finance committee has spoken!! She wants a camera mount for the truck so you better get to finding her one. Lots of great information today. Rule #1 is correct.
Tim even tho this video doesn't apply to me since I don't own a tractor LOL I thought this was a very informative video for those owning or looking to buy a sub compact tractor and will be looking at tillers for it as well I will say I don't think I would own a sub compact tractor with out a tiller Yours is one of the most versatile tools I have seen. You use it on so many different jobs and situations and it seems to work well for most if not all of them and remember always refer to rule #1. LOL Thumbs up for Christy taking the video go by a car mount camera holder. LOL There Christy I told him. Hope you guys have a great week and God Bless!!!
Great video Tim! I remember the rebar incident at 6:44! I remember almost swallowing my gum! I was shocked and impressed that you came away without damage! Thanks!
Tim, I have a JD 2032R that I use a JD647 tiller on and yes the tractor is wider than the tiller so I have to overlap a little when tilling. The 647 came with the 1025r I had so when I upgraded the tiller was paid for so it didn’t make sense to get a new one. One thing I found was that if it was not level it put the drive chain in a bind and caused it to break. So it’s a good idea especially for first use each year to make sure the tiller is level front to back and side to side. I do that now and haven’t broke a chain in 3 years use on a 2 acre garden.
Yes, indeed. But have you EVER heard of a "broken GEAR drive?" One commenter mentioned "broken tooth" on gears but I haven't "lived long enough" to see one...but then, I'm only 71... I'll "take my chances" with gearing over chain-ing any/and every day!
one of my cousins has a tillervator.. its a 12' wide tiller with tines sniped where the crop grows.. it is made to do what a cultivator does in weed removal but also tills the soil in the middle of the plants for some reason...
Thanks for the info Tim, I’m ready to pull the strings on a tiller but like you said they are so many and I’m leaning on kk the price out of state runs around $1550 and around me (Georgia) runs around $1899 can’t decide. Get a window mount for Christy. Lol
Enjoyed the video. Lot of good info here. One thing I didn't catch is if you had any preference of forward vs reverse rotation tines? Prayers for your Dad for a speedy recovery. Those harvesting videos you made with him last fall were very interesting.
Tim, one thing that people with clutch protected equipment need to remember is that they need to be burned yearly to make sure they are not rusted/frozen. I knew a guy that destroyed a baler when the clutch was rusted and the clutch didn’t slip when a fence post went in. 😭
@@bobcutlip9448 Slip the clutch. Basically you need to loosen the bolts on the slip clutch a little bit, then repeatedly engage and disengage the PTO to allow the clutch disc(s) to slip which ensures the clutch isn't seized by rust, dirt, etc. Then tighten the bolts back down you'll need a feeler gauge and follow the directions in the manual for the tiller to reset the clutch disc clearance. Only takes a few minutes to do, and highly recommended, rather required...if that clutch is seized up and you hit something it can cause damage to the gearbox on the tiller and/or the tractor's PTO.
We'll see how this one fares. Seems like folks SAY they want informational videos, but the view counts indicate that folks really want entertainment videos :-)
I LIKE UR COMMENT ON TILLERS. I HAVE SUB COMPACT N/H I WAS GOING TO BUY A 4FT. BUT I OPT NOT TO BECAUSE I HAVE 3/4 LAND WITH HOUSE ON IT. SO I OPT FOR A HAND 140 CC PULL BACK TILLER. IM MAKING A DRIVWAY FOR MY SHED WHICH 16X20 I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO PUT A TILLER ON THE TRACTOR AND MANUVERABLITY WOULD BE REALY HARD. TKS FOR ALL UR COMMENTS AND IDEA'S. I KNOW U HAVE NOT PUT LIGHTS ON JOHNY YET , THAT IS MY NEXT ADVENTURE , I BOUGHT A 15" LED BAR LT. FOR SO WHEN WORKING AT NIGHT I CAN SEE .
Great video tim! I have been in the market for over a year now. And i still dont know what I want. I keep hoping for a used one to pop up on craigslist and get a screaming deal. But no such luck. Thanks for the vid, gave me some things to think about
Awesome video. Most of your videos are just entertaining demonstrations and just make me want to run out and buy, but this video is full of practical owner-based reviews. Keep a good mix of both as they are great!
Thanks Eric. You might be surprised to hear that producing good entertainment focused videos surrounding the Tractor theme is MUCH more difficult than creating the informational type.
I know there are a lot of videos watching other youtubers use their machines with little explanation of what's going on until they shut the tractor down and walk back to the camera. Those videos have some value I guess but they are hard to watch for 15 minutes.
Thanks for this video. I was told by someone that has a lawn care business that If I got a rototiller for the back of my 53hp John Deere 4520 I'd regret it. I'd have a lot of breakdowns with it. The tiller breaking that is. He said rocks will definitely damage it. I have a chance to buy a well used Howard Rotavator J 6' tiller for a reasonable price but kind of decided to skip it until I saw this video and saw that tiller bouncing on that hard packed dirt. I realize that you have to use your head any time you use a tractor for anything. I just wonder if his misgivings were right. I have a couple of rather large fields to plow, about 5 acres each because the owner wants them leveled out. They're pretty bumpy and all I have is a one bottom plow and some worn out disk harrows and thought it would be faster with a tiller. This is the only time I've been asked to rototill with this tractor so I don't want to go the expense of a brand new tiller. Any thoughts about this guy's warning about incurring damage?
This was excellent information, Tim. Considering a teller but don't think I need just yet. Hey, get a camera holder for the camera holder (smile). Loved the video.
If you actually ask a tiller company that makes both gear and chain drive tillers, they will tell you that as a manufacturer they actually see better results from the chain drive models. However people tend to assume that gear drives are better, and so everyone is offering one now.
better is probably not the right word. Maybe a better explanation is that there was never anything wrong with chain drive, and building a gear drive tiller is more expensive for no reason.
Worked at a sod farm and I have an ancient chain drive tiller. The Chain drives have more "give" with the slack in the chain so hitting rocks you have a buffer. Gear drive, if one tooth goes, it takes them all out. Price too, why not chain. I think a replacement chain is way cheaper than gears.
Messick Farm Equipment @ LOL... The tiller makers will tell you that chain drive is better... Because it's so much cheaper for them to make and they make about $200.00 more of a chain drive tiller than a gear drive... But anyone that has had both will tell you that Gear Drive is the Best... Much stronger...
Sweet Pig Farm @ LOL... That's what a slip clutch is for... To protect the Gears... You do know that your Top Gear Box on that ancient chain drive tiller has gears in it right...
Hi Tim. I've watched off and on for awhile. Having just bought a new piece of virgin ground for a new homestead, I knew I was going to need something for my BX 2360 to till about an acre for the yard. There was a lot of small growth trees we're clearing with a dozer, but Oh Boy the roots! I'm buying a King Kutter XB tomorrow (I think). Think it will do the job? Most of them are thumb size or smaller. The soil is loose but really rough after the dozer does it's thing. Thanks! Edit: I just found the vid on the new 3 acre yard.
Tim, thank you for the detailed information on all the things to consider when looking for a tiller.... perhaps you should change your channel name to Tractor “Tine” with Tim ;)..... I enjoy all of your videos by the way.
Tim, in order to get a wide tiller into a narrow gate, drop the tiller and carry it with the loader into the tilling location, then reattach. Yes it's an extra step but it gets the tiller into the backyard.
Sure, but at what cost? Tilling is low margin. Folks with a back fence want a 10x10 garden and want it tilled for $20! I am not gonna remove my tiller and reattach it for these small jobs.
Wow until now i didn’t realize that both the frontier and the John deere tillers were made in Italy by Sicma and Maschio,,, hmm ya learn something new everyday,, well at least they are not made in china or Mexico,,, as always thanks for the informative video Tim..
Tractor Time with Tim When you want tell someone about a video that might help them in there situation I guess in my mind it would be easier to give them a number of the video instead of going through the videos until you find the one you want to suggest to them. The way I do it now is just say ttwt has a video on that you should see. From that point I don't know what happens or if they find it. Just rambling I guess.
I have a 6' king kutter tiller. You can't get a nicer looking garden bed IMO. I've owned it 6 years and tilled several gardens twice a year. Zero troubles. Best part is it's half the price of John Deere's.
This was all fine and good but one really important aspect was left out in my opinion,,, That is tilling depth.. When we bought our property, I wanted the biggest garden my body could handle. That ended up being 30,000 square feet.. I had a old trusty troy built big red walk behind tiller, but I couldnt get through the sod.. Hired a guy who came out and "tilled" the garden for me with a little 3 or 4 foot attachment. looked great till I walked through and it was only 2 inches deep.. Since the sod was gone, Ole trusty big red got it the rest of the way.. But it takes me around a week to till my darn garden walking that slow and going over it 2 or 3 times.. So how is the depth on those things and how is it controlled?
Curious if you have heard of HAUS up your way. We've ran one since '98. Easily converts from forward rotation to reverse. It's been one tough lil implement for the hard red rocky clay of NorWest NC
Hi Tim I've noticed on several of your videos. When you are using Johnny without the front loader I always notice the quick pins are dangling in the air on their lanyards. Are you aware of those little welded lungs with about a half inch hole going through it is storage for your quick pin when they are not in use to keep them out of harms way all John Deere's with the quick release front bucket attachment have them.
Thanks Tim, for all of your hard work and dedication to your videos and to the wealth of knowledge, that you provide us. Be safe and God bless you and your family.
I find that a lot of older equipment made for Cat. 1 hitches do not have the correct height for the center link and as a result will not work with a quick hitch... I am making an adaptor for my quick hitch to take care of that problem...
I looked at every tiller available to mankind and if you are searching for the best it’s an Aison. I paid a pretty penny for it but it’s leaps & bounds above all others I researched. It’s gear driven, has 6 tines per flange and with a double spring loaded back gate you can till any ground and make it turn to fine dirt in one pass! I looked at TS version and LP and everyone in between and I can’t say enough how awesome this Aison is. You can get parts at any Kubota dealer and many other parts houses and it just kicks a$$...
Tractor Time with Tim I did, the first time I brought it to the camp I had to run it through a field that had a lot of 6” and better stumps. I knew better but I tilled the field anyway, broke about 5 tines but got the field tilled. It chewed up the smaller stumps and broke up some of the bigger ones. I did try to pick up on the bigger stumps to keep from damaging unit. I had to spend $50 on new tines and that was two years ago and haven’t looked back. This thing is a beast. Wish I could show a pic of it on here.
Tiller rule #1. Everyone is happy with their tiller. Check back this afternoon at 3pm for our largest tilling project ever 3-4 acres of tilling with Johnny.
Tractor Time with Tim I agree, and I hope what I was saying wasn’t coming across as pompous or being a smart but cause it wasn’t intended that way. I agree with you that no matter what tiller someone purchases they will Love it!
I wouldn't exactly say King Cutter and Tartar are the two major brands. There are much larger brands such as BushHog and LandPride that make tillers here in America. I would also disagree with rule number one. There are vast differences in quality of products used and build quality among brands. If you get a cheaper tiller, you are getting a cheaper product that will not last as long or do as good of a job. I have seen many people who have went for the "economic" option and after tearing it up regretted their decision. I would say my personal favorite tiller is the new ones made by Dirt Dog but always remember to compare specs to specs.
Finally something I can watch on Tillers what about tillers from everything attachments are those good tillers I’m still trying to find a tractor subcompact within my range I just want to do my front yard my backyard I don’t have a lot of land but I wanna do it you know I want to get into it I like growing my own food I want to turn my front yard into corn you know I feed my family off the food that I grow my backyard and I’ve been doing it for about six years now and it’s time for me to get a tractor And that’s a whole Nother issue thank you for the video I really enjoyed it
I don’t deal with or recommend EA. They attacked me personally on their FB page (more than once). They may have fine products, I dunno. I don’t deal with companies that choose to insult, and not show basic respect. Sorry.
Good Morning Tim and MrsTim! I've watched your tiller videos and I'm familiar with tiller rule #1 but that being said I would like to purchase a tar river tiller from Courtney at Good Works. I can't find out much about them review wise. Tim any info you could pass on would be greatly appreciated. Looking at the specs there are heavier tillers out there. The 60 inch weighs in at a touch over #400. Thank you and stay safe.
Here are my guidelines: - 6 tines per flange - gear drive (instead of chain) - centered (for 4’ model a behind subcompact tractors) - slip clutch instead of shear bolt. - quick hitch compatible My current favorite is the Tarter / County Line (TSC) ...this is the same tiller.
What equipment ie tiller, would you use for a 2500 Ft. grass runway with some light gravel mixed into the surface. The runway surface is 40 years old. A tiller used on this runway would need to be used also to level the surface in some locations to make the entire runway Flat. What tine would work best?
I think I would recommend a ‘power rake’ also called a ‘Harley rake’ for that job. Tillers don’t do well with rocks. We have demonstrated a power rake in our ‘volunteering with Ventrac’ video.
This is an entertaining video. Thanks. BTW -- You missed that Land Pride is one of the leading manufacturers of American-made tillers -- made in Abilene, KS. Beyond that, you also missed some of the facts we discussed in Louisville. Heavier does not mean that it tills better. The best tillers are reverse till models. The reverse action holds the tiller into the ground better than a forward till model. However, reverse till models should not be used in rocky soil. Rocks will be pulled up and over the rotor and damage the hood. Most tillers that bounce do so because their tines are dull and need replaced not because the tiller is too light. 4-tine models are better, 6 tine models require up to 23% more horsepower to run which translates in to greater fuel consumption. The chain versus gear drive is also not accurate. The heavy-duty roller chain does not wear like you described. Chains can also be replaced on a weekend with chain purchased at your local farm supply store -- in the unlikely event that the need arises -- where a gear cannot. The Land Pride gear and chain model shown in the video -- the indoor shots -- are of a #80 high-tensile roller chain that comes with a 10-year warranty as well as Land Pride's gear set. Both are very durable.
I have been tilling with different tractor tillers for around 40 yrs. and just bought a new tiller last year, from my kubota dealer and he didn't tell me it would be reverse till model, or I wouldn't have bought it, probably from what I had read about reverse till , hand tillers. Any way, was tilling nephews garden and got into a big rock and bent hell out of the hood and front frame holding the rubber flapper. Also not impressed with the tilling either. Now the latter may be because, it is 12" wider ? I went wider because I had went to Commercial tires from Turf tires. Just a old mans opinion, I'm not a expert and never played one on TV :-) and never stayed at Holiday Inn last night.
Yeah, you CAN "replace the chain" (for about a hundred bucks!) at home, with only "household" tools. So can a gear, for that matter. btw---try "collecting" on that "10-year warranty." They'll weasel-out of that claiming "misuse" or some other excuse. I've even had 'em claim "improper installation" (like, how many ways can you hang a chain on a couple of sprockets?!)
Tim, I have farm in Florida, some area i had done filling with 4 feet mulch its now 4 years i want to turn over those mulch say 2 feet, so i can get better soil on top. what attachment i should use ? tiller only goes 6-8 inch so advise me please
Thanks for the video. My question did you have to shorten the pto shaft for the King kutter db to work on you r tractor. I just bought the same brand and have the same tractor and haven’t hooked up the pro shaft yet. Thanks for the videos.
I just measured mine and it doesn’t appear I need to shorten. I am using the harbor freight quick hitch and made your recommended db mods for quick hitch.
No need to measure. If you can put the shaft on while the tiller is attached, you are fine. In my case, the shaft was so long that I couldn’t retract it far enough to slide it onto the PTO.
Hello Tim, How much does PTO HP play into the picture? I was about to buy a Tarter Tiller 48"standard model gear drive. When I asked Tarter if it would run with my JD 1023E, I was told I did not have enough PTO HP to run it? They told me to buy the New Sub Compact Chain Drive Tiller, however it was $300 more! It seems anything now a days if it says "Sub Compact" they jack up the price! This is not the only company to do so.
With installation of such slip clutch, the pto shaft might require to be shortened (high possibility) either by dealer or through UA-cam video by EverythingAttatchments.com. The problems with the slip clutches (several options available) are the diameter of the clutch pack, the length from end to end, and there may NOT be enough room at the gearbox on the tiller.
I neglected to mention one other 'option' for tillers. Most tillers have 'forward rotation' tines, but you can get some with 'reverse rotation'. I have more information about this and other details on our website: tractortimewithtim.com/2018/03/19/choose-the-right-tiller-for-your-compact-tractor/
In addition to that Tim, some of the new County Line tillers at Tractor Supply manufactured by Tarter, are switchable between forward or reverse rotation. To switch directions takes some tools to accomplish, but you do have the option. As always, great video! And yes, buy her a camera mount!
The "reverse"tillers are for tilling under stones or big humps of grass and the loos ground is putting over it.
ua-cam.com/video/qLm5yN_01JA/v-deo.html
i got JD tiller because like you said because of the finance options. so who made it?
All tractor pto shafts do not always turn in the same direction, my Ebro A30L turns anticlockwise, so do most pasquali tracters and there are many others like earlier Valpadana. Having a reversable option is not so good as the tines would have to be straight out from the disc carriers, if you look at most tiller the tines come out at an angle and lock against each other to help with rigidity.
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Tim, I wanna thank you and your wife for taking the time and making these very helpful, informative videos on compact tractors and compact tractor implements. You have saved me hours, countless times, so today I thought it was time to say thank you!
Hi Tim. I have watched hundreds of videos and many on reviews and I must say this was one of the best reviews on anything I personally have seen. You were very precise, factual and you did not babble aimlessly about non-pertinent information. Great job! God bless you and the wife!
Needed this video a couple months ago! Bought the Chinese tiller from agri supply and it was cheaper than tractor supply. But I love it. Tilled a small garden to begin with and planted watermelons, carrots, and potatoes.
Tiller Rule #1 on display!
As a retired farmer I can tell you the most important thing about a piece of an equipment is availability of parts
Very true.
Tractor Time with Tim love your videos god bless your family
Nice informative video, Re slipping clutch transmition shaft, if you are not using the slipping clutch drive shaft often they stick, any slight moisture that may get in starts oxidization(rust) on the shiney metal discs that soon rust even with normal air humidity so its always best to check with a couple of prize barrs to make sure it slips before you start. Quite often you can tell the different types of drive by looking at the cover, the gear drive usually has an outward dimple between the top and bottom gears, this is to give clearence for the nut holding the centre gear on gear drives, with chain drives this is not needed.
This was a Tillerific video. You really "stirred" up some good info to make it easier for us to ground down our options.
Just had "informed" my wife a few days ago that a tiller purchase was in our near future. Your video came out at the perfect time. THANKS!!!
Ha! Glad we could help
Hi Tim, I actually own a BX25D Kubota (very similar to your Jonny 1025). I want to thank you for showing your audiences the different products, how they are used, and how you use yours. I learned a lot about sub-compact tractors for you.
Thank You !!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for all the information. I've been toying with the idea of getting a tiller for my new JD2038R. If the snow ever melts here in Maine I'll be tiller shopping.
Another week or two and my tiller will get to work. Hope yesterday's snow is the last one till next winter. Ground is very soft so we need some sun. Great video.
We’re supposed to get snow tomorrow and Saturday.
Good video Tim. I've owned an ancient Howard P50 "Select-a-Tilth" tiller for several years (and don't know how I "lived" without it!) Always used "walk-behind, rear tine" tiller(s) before, but there is NO comparison! One comment I'd like to make is that a "forward-rotating" tiller, while it may not deliver as fine a tilth as "rearward-rotating" models, has one major advantage over the "backwards" tillers: it will "drive" a stuck tractor out of trouble. I have "stuck" my 2WD tractor, a heavy Allis-Chalmers 5040, lifted the tiller for better traction (to no effect) then discovered that by engaging the rotating tiller with the ground, it will provide enough fwd thrust to get outta "trouble."
I must take exception to the claim that chain-drive tillers are superior to gear drive. My first 3-point tiller (also a Howard) was chain-driven and was a constant headache: Chains not only stretch, but they also wear out faster---especially if sand inevitably finds its way into the chain box--and the chain's tensioner "shoe" must be kept in nearly-perfect adjustment or "all heck breaks loose" in that box! And opening a dirt/mud-encrusted housing in the field (even if you happen to have all the proper tools, and an oil-drain pan with you---which is highly unlikely) is not recommended. This means a trip back to the garage, which, depending upon distance is time-consuming and frustrating (especially with narrow planting "windows" and "weather" moving in....) Chains aren't very expensive, but if your sprockets are worn that is an expensive proposition! There are good reasons why manufacturers have opted to build with gears (even tho that is undoubtedly more expensive than chain/sprocket const.) and I think it's because they "got tired of" warrantied chain-driven tillers being returned for repairs/adjustments.
Thanks for your comment. I think I mentioned that I prefer gear drive, right???
I don’t have a question or comment except to commend you on your presentation-Very Good!
Thanks! Very kind!
Tim, I had so many unanswered questions regarding tilers and you answered them. Ty my friend
I love my suction mount phone holder!!! It even stays put on my Jeep Wrangler with the top off lol. Also love y’all’s videos!!! Keep it up
I use a Tar River Implement chain drive 50 inch tiller on my BX and love it. Never heard of the brand before but the dealer we got the tractor from let us have it brand new for $1250.
Still loving your tar river? Looking to invest in one and I'm not familiar with the brand either.
I have found that one of the best ways to check a hard used tiller is not the tines but the discs they are bolted to, the tines are easily replacable as they wear out and also break but changing the discs is a lot harder to do, so check how much the side corners are rounded over arround the edges, you can compare that to the part directly under the tine.
Speaking of tine wear: I had the good fortune to find/buy an old Howard P50 that someone, when the tines were not yet worn, had welded three "rows" of "hard-surfacing rod" on the top (shaft side) and one row along the leading edges on the opposite side of the tines---they will not wear out in MY lifetime!
But Derek is absolutely correct: look carefully at the horizontal portions of the tines BEFORE you even consider purchasing a used tiller---those tines have a tale to tell! (any "rounding" indicates a whole lotta "rubbing...")
I have a 1025 and a JD tiller. I've used it all over the acreage. From the garden to the rose garden and water way/dry creek. Yes it is handy. I use it as a counter balance sometimes and other times I use my large mower. Powered tillers are handy.
Martin Eastburn lol once i put on my 3 bottom plow for some extra counterbalance when trying to take some big bites of snow with my bucket
Thanks for the info! I've only, once, rented a tiller for my 1026r and it did an awesome job for the job it had to perform... far better than I had originally expected of it. I don't have enough use for one right now, to warrant buying one, but I hope to in the future.
Just bought a woods tiller for my Bx25d,like you said I love it!
I know I've brought this up to you before, but thought its worth mentioning again. With my Woods tiller, they used a single bolt and rely on compression to keep the tines in place. They came lose and I had a hard time getting them realigned and wound up back to the dealer to get them tightened back into place. Where as a shear bolt design that your tiller looks like it uses would be a much easier fix. Maybe I just don't yet have the "know how" to get my system working properly, time will tell.
The finance committee has spoken!! She wants a camera mount for the truck so you better get to finding her one. Lots of great information today. Rule #1 is correct.
Great timing Tim. I'm looking into a tiller for my 2305. Thanks for the info.
When I bought my 2305 new, I had the JD dealer throw in a 4' Khun and I have used it for 6 years now and love everything about it.
Tiller Rule #1
my kubota dealer has woods,bush hog and land pride tillers on sale 4 and 5 feet wide for $2100
A REALLY good clear instructional video, PERFECT, just what I wanted.
Tim even tho this video doesn't apply to me since I don't own a tractor LOL I thought this was a very informative video for those owning or looking to buy a sub compact tractor and will be looking at tillers for it as well I will say I don't think I would own a sub compact tractor with out a tiller Yours is one of the most versatile tools I have seen. You use it on so many different jobs and situations and it seems to work well for most if not all of them and remember always refer to rule #1. LOL Thumbs up for Christy taking the video go by a car mount camera holder. LOL There Christy I told him. Hope you guys have a great week and God Bless!!!
Great video Tim! I remember the rebar incident at 6:44! I remember almost swallowing my gum! I was shocked and impressed that you came away without damage! Thanks!
Yea, it wasn't one of my favorite memories. ...but it proved that the little King Kutter Tiller is tough as nails.
Tim, I have a JD 2032R that I use a JD647 tiller on and yes the tractor is wider than the tiller so I have to overlap a little when tilling. The 647 came with the 1025r I had so when I upgraded the tiller was paid for so it didn’t make sense to get a new one. One thing I found was that if it was not level it put the drive chain in a bind and caused it to break. So it’s a good idea especially for first use each year to make sure the tiller is level front to back and side to side. I do that now and haven’t broke a chain in 3 years use on a 2 acre garden.
Interesting. First I’ve heard of a broken drive chain.
Yes, indeed. But have you EVER heard of a "broken GEAR drive?" One commenter mentioned "broken tooth" on gears but I haven't "lived long enough" to see one...but then, I'm only 71... I'll "take my chances" with gearing over chain-ing any/and every day!
one of my cousins has a tillervator.. its a 12' wide tiller with tines sniped where the crop grows.. it is made to do what a cultivator does in weed removal but also tills the soil in the middle of the plants for some reason...
Absolutely agree on loving my tiller. They are such great implements.
more info than I thought there could be about a tiller. LOVED the video. I hope you already purchased the suction cup camera holder!
Great timing! I am looking for a tiller for my tractor. Thanks for the video. You all always do great. God bless you both.
You won’t regret it!
I really like what you guys are doing. Great information, terrific focus on family. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info Tim, I’m ready to pull the strings on a tiller but like you said they are so many and I’m leaning on kk the price out of state runs around $1550 and around me (Georgia) runs around $1899 can’t decide. Get a window mount for Christy. Lol
Enjoyed the video. Lot of good info here. One thing I didn't catch is if you had any preference of forward vs reverse rotation tines? Prayers for your Dad for a speedy recovery. Those harvesting videos you made with him last fall were very interesting.
Look at our website for the info on rotation direction
Sorry, I saw that link after I had posted the comment. "Got my answer'
Tim, one thing that people with clutch protected equipment need to remember is that they need to be burned yearly to make sure they are not rusted/frozen. I knew a guy that destroyed a baler when the clutch was rusted and the clutch didn’t slip when a fence post went in. 😭
burned?
@@bobcutlip9448 Slip the clutch. Basically you need to loosen the bolts on the slip clutch a little bit, then repeatedly engage and disengage the PTO to allow the clutch disc(s) to slip which ensures the clutch isn't seized by rust, dirt, etc. Then tighten the bolts back down you'll need a feeler gauge and follow the directions in the manual for the tiller to reset the clutch disc clearance. Only takes a few minutes to do, and highly recommended, rather required...if that clutch is seized up and you hit something it can cause damage to the gearbox on the tiller and/or the tractor's PTO.
guideline - every foot of tiller width should have 6 tractor hp i.e. 5 ft wide tiller = minimum 30 hp tractor
Thanks. Never thought about one but I enjoyed the very thoughtful insite into the world of tillers. Two thumbs up. Drifterbike
Thanks Drifter. Hard to believe how useful it is. It even makes other dirt work easier.
Very nice video...by the way...Land Pride tillers are made in the US....here in central Kansas to be exact.
Sorry about missing them. I suspect there are other US manufacturers as well.
Land Pride makes some of the best quality implements out there imo
Didn't Woods buy them and now own both ?
No. Kubota owns Land Pride.
Great guidelines to know, Tim. Currently in the market and "kickin' tires!"
Thanks for sharing! You Oughta try the magnetic mount with the ball
Great video. Thanks for the info I'm looking to purchase a tiller soon.
Excellent, no nonsense review. Thanks for this !
Thank you!!!! I really needed this video!!!! Could you also do a video on rottery mowers
We'll see how this one fares. Seems like folks SAY they want informational videos, but the view counts indicate that folks really want entertainment videos :-)
I LIKE UR COMMENT ON TILLERS. I HAVE SUB COMPACT N/H I WAS GOING TO BUY A 4FT. BUT I OPT NOT TO BECAUSE I HAVE 3/4 LAND WITH HOUSE ON IT. SO I OPT FOR A HAND 140 CC PULL BACK TILLER.
IM MAKING A DRIVWAY FOR MY SHED WHICH 16X20 I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO PUT A TILLER ON THE TRACTOR AND MANUVERABLITY WOULD BE REALY HARD.
TKS FOR ALL UR COMMENTS AND IDEA'S.
I KNOW U HAVE NOT PUT LIGHTS ON JOHNY YET , THAT IS MY NEXT ADVENTURE , I BOUGHT A 15" LED BAR LT. FOR SO WHEN WORKING AT NIGHT I CAN SEE .
I have the Deere light options.
Great video tim! I have been in the market for over a year now. And i still dont know what I want. I keep hoping for a used one to pop up on craigslist and get a screaming deal. But no such luck. Thanks for the vid, gave me some things to think about
I think tiller prices have gone up a little bit.
perfect timing for this vid. i'm shopping around for a tiller.
Awesome video. Most of your videos are just entertaining demonstrations and just make me want to run out and buy, but this video is full of practical owner-based reviews. Keep a good mix of both as they are great!
Thanks Eric. You might be surprised to hear that producing good entertainment focused videos surrounding the Tractor theme is MUCH more difficult than creating the informational type.
I know there are a lot of videos watching other youtubers use their machines with little explanation of what's going on until they shut the tractor down and walk back to the camera. Those videos have some value I guess but they are hard to watch for 15 minutes.
Thanks for this video. I was told by someone that has a lawn care business that If I got a rototiller for the back of my 53hp John Deere 4520 I'd regret it. I'd have a lot of breakdowns with it. The tiller breaking that is. He said rocks will definitely damage it. I have a chance to buy a well used Howard Rotavator J 6' tiller for a reasonable price but kind of decided to skip it until I saw this video and saw that tiller bouncing on that hard packed dirt. I realize that you have to use your head any time you use a tractor for anything. I just wonder if his misgivings were right. I have a couple of rather large fields to plow, about 5 acres each because the owner wants them leveled out. They're pretty bumpy and all I have is a one bottom plow and some worn out disk harrows and thought it would be faster with a tiller. This is the only time I've been asked to rototill with this tractor so I don't want to go the expense of a brand new tiller. Any thoughts about this guy's warning about incurring damage?
We have many episodes with our tiller. Check them out. I would NOT be without my tiller!
Thanks for the quick response. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos
Look at older episodes if you have the chance. You will see lots of tiller action.
There should be enough to answer your questions.
Hi Tim,
How about a video onTiller maintenance. Maybe tips on lubing the PTO shaft. I've learned a lot about tractors from you.
Thanks
I typically do not lube the shaft...meaning the telescoping portion. I DO grease the universal joints frequently.
Very nice and helpful video. Thank you very much.
Very good inputs
This was excellent information, Tim. Considering a teller but don't think I need just yet. Hey, get a camera holder for the camera holder (smile). Loved the video.
Yea, already got a camera holder!!!’ :-)
If you actually ask a tiller company that makes both gear and chain drive tillers, they will tell you that as a manufacturer they actually see better results from the chain drive models. However people tend to assume that gear drives are better, and so everyone is offering one now.
better is probably not the right word. Maybe a better explanation is that there was never anything wrong with chain drive, and building a gear drive tiller is more expensive for no reason.
Worked at a sod farm and I have an ancient chain drive tiller. The Chain drives have more "give" with the slack in the chain so hitting rocks you have a buffer. Gear drive, if one tooth goes, it takes them all out. Price too, why not chain. I think a replacement chain is way cheaper than gears.
Makes sense!
Messick Farm Equipment @ LOL... The tiller makers will tell you that chain drive is better... Because it's so much cheaper for them to make and they make about $200.00 more of a chain drive tiller than a gear drive... But anyone that has had both will tell you that Gear Drive is the Best... Much stronger...
Sweet Pig Farm @ LOL... That's what a slip clutch is for... To protect the Gears... You do know that your Top Gear Box on that ancient chain drive tiller has gears in it right...
Hi Tim. I've watched off and on for awhile. Having just bought a new piece of virgin ground for a new homestead, I knew I was going to need something for my BX 2360 to till about an acre for the yard. There was a lot of small growth trees we're clearing with a dozer, but Oh Boy the roots! I'm buying a King Kutter XB tomorrow (I think). Think it will do the job? Most of them are thumb size or smaller. The soil is loose but really rough after the dozer does it's thing. Thanks!
Edit: I just found the vid on the new 3 acre yard.
Great job explaining the products
Thank you - really helps in making my purchase.
Super thorough and most helpful. Thanks!
Great vid with lots of info about tillers. Well done.
Tim, thank you for the detailed information on all the things to consider when looking for a tiller.... perhaps you should change your channel name to Tractor “Tine” with Tim ;)..... I enjoy all of your videos by the way.
Tim, in order to get a wide tiller into a narrow gate, drop the tiller and carry it with the loader into the tilling location, then reattach. Yes it's an extra step but it gets the tiller into the backyard.
Sure, but at what cost? Tilling is low margin. Folks with a back fence want a 10x10 garden and want it tilled for $20! I am not gonna remove my tiller and reattach it for these small jobs.
Thanks for the review, very informative.
Wow until now i didn’t realize that both the frontier and the John deere tillers were made in Italy by Sicma and Maschio,,, hmm ya learn something new everyday,, well at least they are not made in china or Mexico,,, as always thanks for the informative video Tim..
Thanks for watching!
thumbs up for the camera lady
Thank you for answering one of the most asked questions on FB. Seems that is asked daily. Great video and get that girl some equipment for the camera.
Thanks John. Don't hesitate to share it.
Have you ever considered numbering them to make sharing easier. (just a thought)
I assume you mean numbers in the title? How would that make sharing easier?
Tractor Time with Tim When you want tell someone about a video that might help them in there situation I guess in my mind it would be easier to give them a number of the video instead of going through the videos until you find the one you want to suggest to them. The way I do it now is just say ttwt has a video on that you should see. From that point I don't know what happens or if they find it. Just rambling I guess.
It would also help your viewers keep track of when the videos were posted (without having to look at the posted date).
i am considering a tiller for my New Holland...i already have a one bottom plow, disk and cultivator though....
Thanks for sharing the tips, Tim!!
I have a 6' king kutter tiller. You can't get a nicer looking garden bed IMO. I've owned it 6 years and tilled several gardens twice a year. Zero troubles. Best part is it's half the price of John Deere's.
I love my KK tiller as well!
GOOD JOB Tim & helper
This was all fine and good but one really important aspect was left out in my opinion,,, That is tilling depth.. When we bought our property, I wanted the biggest garden my body could handle. That ended up being 30,000 square feet.. I had a old trusty troy built big red walk behind tiller, but I couldnt get through the sod.. Hired a guy who came out and "tilled" the garden for me with a little 3 or 4 foot attachment. looked great till I walked through and it was only 2 inches deep.. Since the sod was gone, Ole trusty big red got it the rest of the way.. But it takes me around a week to till my darn garden walking that slow and going over it 2 or 3 times.. So how is the depth on those things and how is it controlled?
We have many tilling episodes. Check them out. Each trip over allows the tiller to go deeper. Your hired guy should have tilled it twice.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you, I will check them out
Great information. I'm in the market for one.
You’ll love it!
Curious if you have heard of HAUS up your way. We've ran one since '98. Easily converts from forward rotation to reverse. It's been one tough lil implement for the hard red rocky clay of NorWest NC
I don't think I've ever heard of them.
My bad..one day I will learn to check speech to text. Should have read Howse
very helpful - many thanks!
Hi Tim I've noticed on several of your videos. When you are using Johnny without the front loader I always notice the quick pins are dangling in the air on their lanyards. Are you aware of those little welded lungs with about a half inch hole going through it is storage for your quick pin when they are not in use to keep them out of harms way all John Deere's with the quick release front bucket attachment have them.
Yes, aware. I just forget.
That looks fun as hell
Hell doesn’t sound very fun to me!
Sure another tiller episode your mean and I can't find a used one up in Wisconsin but great video!!!!!!
Keep looking. Not trying to be mean. Sorry.
Thanks Tim, for all of your hard work and dedication to your videos and to the wealth of knowledge, that you provide us. Be safe and God bless you and your family.
Thanks Marc! Very kind!
I find that a lot of older equipment made for Cat. 1 hitches do not have the correct height for the center link and as a result will not work with a quick hitch... I am making an adaptor for my quick hitch to take care of that problem...
That was a very informative video! Thanks, Tim!
I looked at every tiller available to mankind and if you are searching for the best it’s an Aison. I paid a pretty penny for it but it’s leaps & bounds above all others I researched. It’s gear driven, has 6 tines per flange and with a double spring loaded back gate you can till any ground and make it turn to fine dirt in one pass! I looked at TS version and LP and everyone in between and I can’t say enough how awesome this Aison is. You can get parts at any Kubota dealer and many other parts houses and it just kicks a$$...
After spending all that money, how are you going to feel about running it through rocky ground?
Tractor Time with Tim I did, the first time I brought it to the camp I had to run it through a field that had a lot of 6” and better stumps. I knew better but I tilled the field anyway, broke about 5 tines but got the field tilled. It chewed up the smaller stumps and broke up some of the bigger ones. I did try to pick up on the bigger stumps to keep from damaging unit. I had to spend $50 on new tines and that was two years ago and haven’t looked back. This thing is a beast. Wish I could show a pic of it on here.
Tiller rule #1. Everyone is happy with their tiller.
Check back this afternoon at 3pm for our largest tilling project ever 3-4 acres of tilling with Johnny.
Tractor Time with Tim I agree, and I hope what I was saying wasn’t coming across as pompous or being a smart but cause it wasn’t intended that way. I agree with you that no matter what tiller someone purchases they will Love it!
It is best for geir drive or chain drive for agriculture
Great info. Thanks Tim.
I wouldn't exactly say King Cutter and Tartar are the two major brands. There are much larger brands such as BushHog and LandPride that make tillers here in America. I would also disagree with rule number one. There are vast differences in quality of products used and build quality among brands. If you get a cheaper tiller, you are getting a cheaper product that will not last as long or do as good of a job. I have seen many people who have went for the "economic" option and after tearing it up regretted their decision. I would say my personal favorite tiller is the new ones made by Dirt Dog but always remember to compare specs to specs.
nice video Tim lots of good information
Thanks Tim
Perfect video great job
Good job Tim, a lot of good information!
And so it will be seen, Camera mounts are part of the deal :-)
Finally something I can watch on Tillers what about tillers from everything attachments are those good tillers I’m still trying to find a tractor subcompact within my range I just want to do my front yard my backyard I don’t have a lot of land but I wanna do it you know I want to get into it I like growing my own food I want to turn my front yard into corn you know I feed my family off the food that I grow my backyard and I’ve been doing it for about six years now and it’s time for me to get a tractor And that’s a whole Nother issue thank you for the video I really enjoyed it
I don’t deal with or recommend EA. They attacked me personally on their FB page (more than once). They may have fine products, I dunno. I don’t deal with companies that choose to insult, and not show basic respect.
Sorry.
Good video tim and good advice about the tillers and you need a camara holder 😂👍
What do you mean? I HAVE a camera holder! :-) She complains once in awhile, but does a pretty good job :-)
Good Morning Tim and MrsTim! I've watched your tiller videos and I'm familiar with tiller rule #1 but that being said I would like to purchase a tar river tiller from Courtney at Good Works. I can't find out much about them review wise. Tim any info you could pass on would be greatly appreciated. Looking at the specs there are heavier tillers out there. The 60 inch weighs in at a touch over #400. Thank you and stay safe.
I have no opinion, as I have never used one.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you for the very fast response sir. Well I guess rule number one it is then
Here are my guidelines:
- 6 tines per flange
- gear drive (instead of chain)
- centered (for 4’ model a behind subcompact tractors)
- slip clutch instead of shear bolt.
- quick hitch compatible
My current favorite is the Tarter / County Line (TSC) ...this is the same tiller.
What equipment ie tiller, would you use for a 2500 Ft. grass runway with some light gravel mixed into the surface. The runway surface is 40 years old. A tiller used on this runway would need to be used also to level the surface in some locations to make the entire runway Flat. What tine would work best?
I think I would recommend a ‘power rake’ also called a ‘Harley rake’ for that job.
Tillers don’t do well with rocks.
We have demonstrated a power rake in our ‘volunteering with Ventrac’ video.
This is an entertaining video. Thanks. BTW -- You missed that Land Pride is one of the leading manufacturers of American-made tillers -- made in Abilene, KS. Beyond that, you also missed some of the facts we discussed in Louisville. Heavier does not mean that it tills better. The best tillers are reverse till models. The reverse action holds the tiller into the ground better than a forward till model. However, reverse till models should not be used in rocky soil. Rocks will be pulled up and over the rotor and damage the hood. Most tillers that bounce do so because their tines are dull and need replaced not because the tiller is too light. 4-tine models are better, 6 tine models require up to 23% more horsepower to run which translates in to greater fuel consumption. The chain versus gear drive is also not accurate. The heavy-duty roller chain does not wear like you described. Chains can also be replaced on a weekend with chain purchased at your local farm supply store -- in the unlikely event that the need arises -- where a gear cannot. The Land Pride gear and chain model shown in the video -- the indoor shots -- are of a #80 high-tensile roller chain that comes with a 10-year warranty as well as Land Pride's gear set. Both are very durable.
James, you must be the Land Pride Rep we talked with at the NFMS?
I have been tilling with different tractor tillers for around 40 yrs. and just bought a new tiller last year, from my kubota dealer and he didn't tell me it would be reverse till model, or I wouldn't have bought it, probably from what I had read about reverse till , hand tillers.
Any way, was tilling nephews garden and got into a big rock and bent hell out of the hood and front frame holding the rubber flapper. Also not impressed with the tilling either. Now the latter may be because, it is 12" wider ? I went wider because I had went to Commercial tires from Turf tires.
Just a old mans opinion, I'm not a expert and never played one on TV :-) and never stayed at Holiday Inn last night.
Thanks for the input!
Yeah, you CAN "replace the chain" (for about a hundred bucks!) at home, with only "household" tools. So can a gear, for that matter. btw---try "collecting" on that "10-year warranty." They'll weasel-out of that claiming "misuse" or some other excuse. I've even had 'em claim "improper installation" (like, how many ways can you hang a chain on a couple of sprockets?!)
Tim, I have farm in Florida, some area i had done filling with 4 feet mulch its now 4 years i want to turn over those mulch say 2 feet, so i can get better soil on top. what attachment i should use ? tiller only goes 6-8 inch so advise me please
Wow. 2 ft. Loader bucket?
Hi Tim !
How often should I change the gear oil ?
Thanks !
Hydraulic oil in rear end? First 50 hrs, then, 200,400,600, etc
Thanks for the video. My question did you have to shorten the pto shaft for the King kutter db to work on you r tractor. I just bought the same brand and have the same tractor and haven’t hooked up the pro shaft yet. Thanks for the videos.
Yes, you will likely need to shorten the shaft. No big deal. I believe everything attachments has a video showing how to do it.
I just measured mine and it doesn’t appear I need to shorten. I am using the harbor freight quick hitch and made your recommended db mods for quick hitch.
No need to measure. If you can put the shaft on while the tiller is attached, you are fine. In my case, the shaft was so long that I couldn’t retract it far enough to slide it onto the PTO.
Good info. Thanks.
Hello Tim, How much does PTO HP play into the picture? I was about to buy a Tarter Tiller 48"standard model gear drive. When I asked Tarter if it would run with my JD 1023E, I was told I did not have enough PTO HP to run it? They told me to buy the New Sub Compact Chain Drive Tiller, however it was $300 more! It seems anything now a days if it says "Sub Compact" they jack up the price! This is not the only company to do so.
48” standard will be fine on 1023e
Thanks so much for the time and info! Tractor On!
Awesome video thanks 👍
Man you are awesome I love your videos
ASC has slip clutches for sale that can replace the shear bolt.
With installation of such slip clutch, the pto shaft might require to be shortened (high possibility) either by dealer or through UA-cam video by EverythingAttatchments.com. The problems with the slip clutches (several options available) are the diameter of the clutch pack, the length from end to end, and there may NOT be enough room at the gearbox on the tiller.