I neglected to mention one other 'option' for tillers. Most tillers have 'forward rotation' tines, but you can get some with 'reverse rotation'. I have more information about this and other details on our website: tractortimewithtim.com/2018/03/19/choose-the-right-tiller-for-your-compact-tractor/
In addition to that Tim, some of the new County Line tillers at Tractor Supply manufactured by Tarter, are switchable between forward or reverse rotation. To switch directions takes some tools to accomplish, but you do have the option. As always, great video! And yes, buy her a camera mount!
The "reverse"tillers are for tilling under stones or big humps of grass and the loos ground is putting over it. ua-cam.com/video/qLm5yN_01JA/v-deo.html
All tractor pto shafts do not always turn in the same direction, my Ebro A30L turns anticlockwise, so do most pasquali tracters and there are many others like earlier Valpadana. Having a reversable option is not so good as the tines would have to be straight out from the disc carriers, if you look at most tiller the tines come out at an angle and lock against each other to help with rigidity.
Tim, I wanna thank you and your wife for taking the time and making these very helpful, informative videos on compact tractors and compact tractor implements. You have saved me hours, countless times, so today I thought it was time to say thank you!
Hi Tim. I have watched hundreds of videos and many on reviews and I must say this was one of the best reviews on anything I personally have seen. You were very precise, factual and you did not babble aimlessly about non-pertinent information. Great job! God bless you and the wife!
Your Great Guy... Bought My Tractor because of you... Her Name is Penny. I have been posting videos of her, as I learn... everyone keeps referring me to you... lol like I don't already know who you are... You the man. I cant wait to get comfortable with Penny... Trying to get her to help me turn my yard into a show yard... lol right now she is just making little messes everywhere she go... Thanks for the tips... I need a Tiller bad... Just got the box blade and running out of things to do with it... and I am Scared of the Backhoe... lol Having fun, Much Respect
Good video Tim. I've owned an ancient Howard P50 "Select-a-Tilth" tiller for several years (and don't know how I "lived" without it!) Always used "walk-behind, rear tine" tiller(s) before, but there is NO comparison! One comment I'd like to make is that a "forward-rotating" tiller, while it may not deliver as fine a tilth as "rearward-rotating" models, has one major advantage over the "backwards" tillers: it will "drive" a stuck tractor out of trouble. I have "stuck" my 2WD tractor, a heavy Allis-Chalmers 5040, lifted the tiller for better traction (to no effect) then discovered that by engaging the rotating tiller with the ground, it will provide enough fwd thrust to get outta "trouble." I must take exception to the claim that chain-drive tillers are superior to gear drive. My first 3-point tiller (also a Howard) was chain-driven and was a constant headache: Chains not only stretch, but they also wear out faster---especially if sand inevitably finds its way into the chain box--and the chain's tensioner "shoe" must be kept in nearly-perfect adjustment or "all heck breaks loose" in that box! And opening a dirt/mud-encrusted housing in the field (even if you happen to have all the proper tools, and an oil-drain pan with you---which is highly unlikely) is not recommended. This means a trip back to the garage, which, depending upon distance is time-consuming and frustrating (especially with narrow planting "windows" and "weather" moving in....) Chains aren't very expensive, but if your sprockets are worn that is an expensive proposition! There are good reasons why manufacturers have opted to build with gears (even tho that is undoubtedly more expensive than chain/sprocket const.) and I think it's because they "got tired of" warrantied chain-driven tillers being returned for repairs/adjustments.
Needed this video a couple months ago! Bought the Chinese tiller from agri supply and it was cheaper than tractor supply. But I love it. Tilled a small garden to begin with and planted watermelons, carrots, and potatoes.
The finance committee has spoken!! She wants a camera mount for the truck so you better get to finding her one. Lots of great information today. Rule #1 is correct.
Hi Tim, I actually own a BX25D Kubota (very similar to your Jonny 1025). I want to thank you for showing your audiences the different products, how they are used, and how you use yours. I learned a lot about sub-compact tractors for you. Thank You !!!
Nice informative video, Re slipping clutch transmition shaft, if you are not using the slipping clutch drive shaft often they stick, any slight moisture that may get in starts oxidization(rust) on the shiney metal discs that soon rust even with normal air humidity so its always best to check with a couple of prize barrs to make sure it slips before you start. Quite often you can tell the different types of drive by looking at the cover, the gear drive usually has an outward dimple between the top and bottom gears, this is to give clearence for the nut holding the centre gear on gear drives, with chain drives this is not needed.
What a lovely description and explanation of the overall function and features of the rototiller. I'm looking for one right now so the info has helped me look a little closer to the actual details of each brand. Thank you. What I'm finding is that most stores carrying them don't have any trained personnel so information is not truly reliable. Thanks again outstanding vidio without the annoying camera movements and unnecessary and annoying personal fluff.
Tim, one thing that people with clutch protected equipment need to remember is that they need to be burned yearly to make sure they are not rusted/frozen. I knew a guy that destroyed a baler when the clutch was rusted and the clutch didn’t slip when a fence post went in. 😭
@@bobcutlip9448 Slip the clutch. Basically you need to loosen the bolts on the slip clutch a little bit, then repeatedly engage and disengage the PTO to allow the clutch disc(s) to slip which ensures the clutch isn't seized by rust, dirt, etc. Then tighten the bolts back down you'll need a feeler gauge and follow the directions in the manual for the tiller to reset the clutch disc clearance. Only takes a few minutes to do, and highly recommended, rather required...if that clutch is seized up and you hit something it can cause damage to the gearbox on the tiller and/or the tractor's PTO.
I have found that one of the best ways to check a hard used tiller is not the tines but the discs they are bolted to, the tines are easily replacable as they wear out and also break but changing the discs is a lot harder to do, so check how much the side corners are rounded over arround the edges, you can compare that to the part directly under the tine.
Speaking of tine wear: I had the good fortune to find/buy an old Howard P50 that someone, when the tines were not yet worn, had welded three "rows" of "hard-surfacing rod" on the top (shaft side) and one row along the leading edges on the opposite side of the tines---they will not wear out in MY lifetime! But Derek is absolutely correct: look carefully at the horizontal portions of the tines BEFORE you even consider purchasing a used tiller---those tines have a tale to tell! (any "rounding" indicates a whole lotta "rubbing...")
If you actually ask a tiller company that makes both gear and chain drive tillers, they will tell you that as a manufacturer they actually see better results from the chain drive models. However people tend to assume that gear drives are better, and so everyone is offering one now.
better is probably not the right word. Maybe a better explanation is that there was never anything wrong with chain drive, and building a gear drive tiller is more expensive for no reason.
Worked at a sod farm and I have an ancient chain drive tiller. The Chain drives have more "give" with the slack in the chain so hitting rocks you have a buffer. Gear drive, if one tooth goes, it takes them all out. Price too, why not chain. I think a replacement chain is way cheaper than gears.
Messick Farm Equipment @ LOL... The tiller makers will tell you that chain drive is better... Because it's so much cheaper for them to make and they make about $200.00 more of a chain drive tiller than a gear drive... But anyone that has had both will tell you that Gear Drive is the Best... Much stronger...
Sweet Pig Farm @ LOL... That's what a slip clutch is for... To protect the Gears... You do know that your Top Gear Box on that ancient chain drive tiller has gears in it right...
Another week or two and my tiller will get to work. Hope yesterday's snow is the last one till next winter. Ground is very soft so we need some sun. Great video.
Thanks for all the information. I've been toying with the idea of getting a tiller for my new JD2038R. If the snow ever melts here in Maine I'll be tiller shopping.
Great vedio!!! I am a new user and I'm repairing a broken chain. I'm concerned that there are shear bolts (or slip plates) that have not been maintained for years. How do I remove the cowling that protects the PTO shaft at both ends so that I can inspect either the slip plates or the shear bolts?
I have a 1025 and a JD tiller. I've used it all over the acreage. From the garden to the rose garden and water way/dry creek. Yes it is handy. I use it as a counter balance sometimes and other times I use my large mower. Powered tillers are handy.
Tim even tho this video doesn't apply to me since I don't own a tractor LOL I thought this was a very informative video for those owning or looking to buy a sub compact tractor and will be looking at tillers for it as well I will say I don't think I would own a sub compact tractor with out a tiller Yours is one of the most versatile tools I have seen. You use it on so many different jobs and situations and it seems to work well for most if not all of them and remember always refer to rule #1. LOL Thumbs up for Christy taking the video go by a car mount camera holder. LOL There Christy I told him. Hope you guys have a great week and God Bless!!!
Great video Tim! I remember the rebar incident at 6:44! I remember almost swallowing my gum! I was shocked and impressed that you came away without damage! Thanks!
Thanks for the info! I've only, once, rented a tiller for my 1026r and it did an awesome job for the job it had to perform... far better than I had originally expected of it. I don't have enough use for one right now, to warrant buying one, but I hope to in the future.
I use a Tar River Implement chain drive 50 inch tiller on my BX and love it. Never heard of the brand before but the dealer we got the tractor from let us have it brand new for $1250.
A second point, You can get different shaped blades for different jobs. I used to use a blade called a speed blade. This blade curved to about 45 degrees not the full 90 degrees of the blades shown on this video. I used to have one drum with the normal blades and a second drum with the speed blades. I used the speed blades for the first 1 or 2 passes as they did a better job of cutting up the trash then swapped drums and went deeper to create a seed bed
I know I've brought this up to you before, but thought its worth mentioning again. With my Woods tiller, they used a single bolt and rely on compression to keep the tines in place. They came lose and I had a hard time getting them realigned and wound up back to the dealer to get them tightened back into place. Where as a shear bolt design that your tiller looks like it uses would be a much easier fix. Maybe I just don't yet have the "know how" to get my system working properly, time will tell.
Tim, this video was so helpful and reassuring for me as I am basically still a Green/New owner of a John Deere Subcompact tractor! I will feel much more confident when I choose the tiller I want to purchase.👍 Thank you!!🇺🇸
I'm trying to find an atachment to first break up reed grass and level very uneven ground? Tried scarfire it just dragged huge clumps if sod then a disc over n over doesn't cut in at all? So a garden ain't looking too doable? Tiller be nice as so as?
one of my cousins has a tillervator.. its a 12' wide tiller with tines sniped where the crop grows.. it is made to do what a cultivator does in weed removal but also tills the soil in the middle of the plants for some reason...
Tim, I have a JD 2032R that I use a JD647 tiller on and yes the tractor is wider than the tiller so I have to overlap a little when tilling. The 647 came with the 1025r I had so when I upgraded the tiller was paid for so it didn’t make sense to get a new one. One thing I found was that if it was not level it put the drive chain in a bind and caused it to break. So it’s a good idea especially for first use each year to make sure the tiller is level front to back and side to side. I do that now and haven’t broke a chain in 3 years use on a 2 acre garden.
Yes, indeed. But have you EVER heard of a "broken GEAR drive?" One commenter mentioned "broken tooth" on gears but I haven't "lived long enough" to see one...but then, I'm only 71... I'll "take my chances" with gearing over chain-ing any/and every day!
Thanks for this video. I was told by someone that has a lawn care business that If I got a rototiller for the back of my 53hp John Deere 4520 I'd regret it. I'd have a lot of breakdowns with it. The tiller breaking that is. He said rocks will definitely damage it. I have a chance to buy a well used Howard Rotavator J 6' tiller for a reasonable price but kind of decided to skip it until I saw this video and saw that tiller bouncing on that hard packed dirt. I realize that you have to use your head any time you use a tractor for anything. I just wonder if his misgivings were right. I have a couple of rather large fields to plow, about 5 acres each because the owner wants them leveled out. They're pretty bumpy and all I have is a one bottom plow and some worn out disk harrows and thought it would be faster with a tiller. This is the only time I've been asked to rototill with this tractor so I don't want to go the expense of a brand new tiller. Any thoughts about this guy's warning about incurring damage?
Awesome video. Most of your videos are just entertaining demonstrations and just make me want to run out and buy, but this video is full of practical owner-based reviews. Keep a good mix of both as they are great!
Thanks Eric. You might be surprised to hear that producing good entertainment focused videos surrounding the Tractor theme is MUCH more difficult than creating the informational type.
I know there are a lot of videos watching other youtubers use their machines with little explanation of what's going on until they shut the tractor down and walk back to the camera. Those videos have some value I guess but they are hard to watch for 15 minutes.
Hi Tim. I've watched off and on for awhile. Having just bought a new piece of virgin ground for a new homestead, I knew I was going to need something for my BX 2360 to till about an acre for the yard. There was a lot of small growth trees we're clearing with a dozer, but Oh Boy the roots! I'm buying a King Kutter XB tomorrow (I think). Think it will do the job? Most of them are thumb size or smaller. The soil is loose but really rough after the dozer does it's thing. Thanks! Edit: I just found the vid on the new 3 acre yard.
I LIKE UR COMMENT ON TILLERS. I HAVE SUB COMPACT N/H I WAS GOING TO BUY A 4FT. BUT I OPT NOT TO BECAUSE I HAVE 3/4 LAND WITH HOUSE ON IT. SO I OPT FOR A HAND 140 CC PULL BACK TILLER. IM MAKING A DRIVWAY FOR MY SHED WHICH 16X20 I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO PUT A TILLER ON THE TRACTOR AND MANUVERABLITY WOULD BE REALY HARD. TKS FOR ALL UR COMMENTS AND IDEA'S. I KNOW U HAVE NOT PUT LIGHTS ON JOHNY YET , THAT IS MY NEXT ADVENTURE , I BOUGHT A 15" LED BAR LT. FOR SO WHEN WORKING AT NIGHT I CAN SEE .
I wouldn't exactly say King Cutter and Tartar are the two major brands. There are much larger brands such as BushHog and LandPride that make tillers here in America. I would also disagree with rule number one. There are vast differences in quality of products used and build quality among brands. If you get a cheaper tiller, you are getting a cheaper product that will not last as long or do as good of a job. I have seen many people who have went for the "economic" option and after tearing it up regretted their decision. I would say my personal favorite tiller is the new ones made by Dirt Dog but always remember to compare specs to specs.
Thanks for the info Tim, I’m ready to pull the strings on a tiller but like you said they are so many and I’m leaning on kk the price out of state runs around $1550 and around me (Georgia) runs around $1899 can’t decide. Get a window mount for Christy. Lol
We'll see how this one fares. Seems like folks SAY they want informational videos, but the view counts indicate that folks really want entertainment videos :-)
I have a 6' king kutter tiller. You can't get a nicer looking garden bed IMO. I've owned it 6 years and tilled several gardens twice a year. Zero troubles. Best part is it's half the price of John Deere's.
Enjoyed the video. Lot of good info here. One thing I didn't catch is if you had any preference of forward vs reverse rotation tines? Prayers for your Dad for a speedy recovery. Those harvesting videos you made with him last fall were very interesting.
Tim, in order to get a wide tiller into a narrow gate, drop the tiller and carry it with the loader into the tilling location, then reattach. Yes it's an extra step but it gets the tiller into the backyard.
Sure, but at what cost? Tilling is low margin. Folks with a back fence want a 10x10 garden and want it tilled for $20! I am not gonna remove my tiller and reattach it for these small jobs.
Question for all, What would it hurt to use both a slip clutch AND a shear bolt? I know that slip clutches need burning off at regular intervals and just thinking extra insurance. Thanks for all the informative videos!
making a big upgrade for personal/business traded in my x724 lawn mower for a 1025r and a 4 ft tiller to replace/ help a ford naa julibee. the ford would run 5 ft tiller ok but when stepping on clutch you would stop right away and would take more passes to grind up sod can not wait to till with live pto
Ok for breaking up soil in a carport. I need to move about 6" of dirt out so I can pour a concrete slab. A tiller or a box blade or what should I use to break up the soil?
Tiller can work great to start. Just remember that you cannot leave ANY loose soil under concrete. So, if you till, you must remove all of that loose soil
Great video tim! I have been in the market for over a year now. And i still dont know what I want. I keep hoping for a used one to pop up on craigslist and get a screaming deal. But no such luck. Thanks for the vid, gave me some things to think about
Thanks for the video. My question did you have to shorten the pto shaft for the King kutter db to work on you r tractor. I just bought the same brand and have the same tractor and haven’t hooked up the pro shaft yet. Thanks for the videos.
I just measured mine and it doesn’t appear I need to shorten. I am using the harbor freight quick hitch and made your recommended db mods for quick hitch.
No need to measure. If you can put the shaft on while the tiller is attached, you are fine. In my case, the shaft was so long that I couldn’t retract it far enough to slide it onto the PTO.
I looked at every tiller available to mankind and if you are searching for the best it’s an Aison. I paid a pretty penny for it but it’s leaps & bounds above all others I researched. It’s gear driven, has 6 tines per flange and with a double spring loaded back gate you can till any ground and make it turn to fine dirt in one pass! I looked at TS version and LP and everyone in between and I can’t say enough how awesome this Aison is. You can get parts at any Kubota dealer and many other parts houses and it just kicks a$$...
Tractor Time with Tim I did, the first time I brought it to the camp I had to run it through a field that had a lot of 6” and better stumps. I knew better but I tilled the field anyway, broke about 5 tines but got the field tilled. It chewed up the smaller stumps and broke up some of the bigger ones. I did try to pick up on the bigger stumps to keep from damaging unit. I had to spend $50 on new tines and that was two years ago and haven’t looked back. This thing is a beast. Wish I could show a pic of it on here.
Tiller rule #1. Everyone is happy with their tiller. Check back this afternoon at 3pm for our largest tilling project ever 3-4 acres of tilling with Johnny.
Tractor Time with Tim I agree, and I hope what I was saying wasn’t coming across as pompous or being a smart but cause it wasn’t intended that way. I agree with you that no matter what tiller someone purchases they will Love it!
Tim, I have farm in Florida, some area i had done filling with 4 feet mulch its now 4 years i want to turn over those mulch say 2 feet, so i can get better soil on top. what attachment i should use ? tiller only goes 6-8 inch so advise me please
What equipment ie tiller, would you use for a 2500 Ft. grass runway with some light gravel mixed into the surface. The runway surface is 40 years old. A tiller used on this runway would need to be used also to level the surface in some locations to make the entire runway Flat. What tine would work best?
I think I would recommend a ‘power rake’ also called a ‘Harley rake’ for that job. Tillers don’t do well with rocks. We have demonstrated a power rake in our ‘volunteering with Ventrac’ video.
I find that a lot of older equipment made for Cat. 1 hitches do not have the correct height for the center link and as a result will not work with a quick hitch... I am making an adaptor for my quick hitch to take care of that problem...
Curious if you have heard of HAUS up your way. We've ran one since '98. Easily converts from forward rotation to reverse. It's been one tough lil implement for the hard red rocky clay of NorWest NC
My advice based on my extensive use of a tiller. 3 ft is plenty for sub compact. Heavy frame, gear drive, adjustable slipper clutch and four tines per flange. Chain drives will never be as strong. Six tines need more power and more prone to bogging up. I adjust the slipper clutch until it does not slip in moist ground. Your a fool if you use it on dry hard ground. To hard on the whole machine. Take your time and dont push the tiller to hard. Better to go slow and multiple pass. Dont try to cut max depth on the first pass unless the ground is already well broken. If you have a sub soiler, use that first before tilling. I criss cross with the sub soiler if its going to be hard going.
Tractor Time with Tim. Three Foot. made in China. But good solid unit. Big tillers need more power and put a lot of strain on sub compact PTO’s. Sub compacts are toys really. To many guys are asking to much of them.
This was all fine and good but one really important aspect was left out in my opinion,,, That is tilling depth.. When we bought our property, I wanted the biggest garden my body could handle. That ended up being 30,000 square feet.. I had a old trusty troy built big red walk behind tiller, but I couldnt get through the sod.. Hired a guy who came out and "tilled" the garden for me with a little 3 or 4 foot attachment. looked great till I walked through and it was only 2 inches deep.. Since the sod was gone, Ole trusty big red got it the rest of the way.. But it takes me around a week to till my darn garden walking that slow and going over it 2 or 3 times.. So how is the depth on those things and how is it controlled?
Good Morning Tim and MrsTim! I've watched your tiller videos and I'm familiar with tiller rule #1 but that being said I would like to purchase a tar river tiller from Courtney at Good Works. I can't find out much about them review wise. Tim any info you could pass on would be greatly appreciated. Looking at the specs there are heavier tillers out there. The 60 inch weighs in at a touch over #400. Thank you and stay safe.
Here are my guidelines: - 6 tines per flange - gear drive (instead of chain) - centered (for 4’ model a behind subcompact tractors) - slip clutch instead of shear bolt. - quick hitch compatible My current favorite is the Tarter / County Line (TSC) ...this is the same tiller.
Hi Tim I've noticed on several of your videos. When you are using Johnny without the front loader I always notice the quick pins are dangling in the air on their lanyards. Are you aware of those little welded lungs with about a half inch hole going through it is storage for your quick pin when they are not in use to keep them out of harms way all John Deere's with the quick release front bucket attachment have them.
?do think I could exchange cutting colters for the teeth on my scarfire to cut up heavy reed canary grass very irregular horse pasture? Before wrapping up the tines with sod
I neglected to mention one other 'option' for tillers. Most tillers have 'forward rotation' tines, but you can get some with 'reverse rotation'. I have more information about this and other details on our website: tractortimewithtim.com/2018/03/19/choose-the-right-tiller-for-your-compact-tractor/
In addition to that Tim, some of the new County Line tillers at Tractor Supply manufactured by Tarter, are switchable between forward or reverse rotation. To switch directions takes some tools to accomplish, but you do have the option. As always, great video! And yes, buy her a camera mount!
The "reverse"tillers are for tilling under stones or big humps of grass and the loos ground is putting over it.
ua-cam.com/video/qLm5yN_01JA/v-deo.html
i got JD tiller because like you said because of the finance options. so who made it?
All tractor pto shafts do not always turn in the same direction, my Ebro A30L turns anticlockwise, so do most pasquali tracters and there are many others like earlier Valpadana. Having a reversable option is not so good as the tines would have to be straight out from the disc carriers, if you look at most tiller the tines come out at an angle and lock against each other to help with rigidity.
.
Tim, I wanna thank you and your wife for taking the time and making these very helpful, informative videos on compact tractors and compact tractor implements. You have saved me hours, countless times, so today I thought it was time to say thank you!
As a retired farmer I can tell you the most important thing about a piece of an equipment is availability of parts
Very true.
Tractor Time with Tim love your videos god bless your family
Hi Tim. I have watched hundreds of videos and many on reviews and I must say this was one of the best reviews on anything I personally have seen. You were very precise, factual and you did not babble aimlessly about non-pertinent information. Great job! God bless you and the wife!
Your Great Guy... Bought My Tractor because of you... Her Name is Penny. I have been posting videos of her, as I learn... everyone keeps referring me to you... lol like I don't already know who you are... You the man. I cant wait to get comfortable with Penny... Trying to get her to help me turn my yard into a show yard... lol right now she is just making little messes everywhere she go... Thanks for the tips... I need a Tiller bad... Just got the box blade and running out of things to do with it... and I am Scared of the Backhoe... lol Having fun, Much Respect
Just had "informed" my wife a few days ago that a tiller purchase was in our near future. Your video came out at the perfect time. THANKS!!!
Ha! Glad we could help
This was a Tillerific video. You really "stirred" up some good info to make it easier for us to ground down our options.
Good video Tim. I've owned an ancient Howard P50 "Select-a-Tilth" tiller for several years (and don't know how I "lived" without it!) Always used "walk-behind, rear tine" tiller(s) before, but there is NO comparison! One comment I'd like to make is that a "forward-rotating" tiller, while it may not deliver as fine a tilth as "rearward-rotating" models, has one major advantage over the "backwards" tillers: it will "drive" a stuck tractor out of trouble. I have "stuck" my 2WD tractor, a heavy Allis-Chalmers 5040, lifted the tiller for better traction (to no effect) then discovered that by engaging the rotating tiller with the ground, it will provide enough fwd thrust to get outta "trouble."
I must take exception to the claim that chain-drive tillers are superior to gear drive. My first 3-point tiller (also a Howard) was chain-driven and was a constant headache: Chains not only stretch, but they also wear out faster---especially if sand inevitably finds its way into the chain box--and the chain's tensioner "shoe" must be kept in nearly-perfect adjustment or "all heck breaks loose" in that box! And opening a dirt/mud-encrusted housing in the field (even if you happen to have all the proper tools, and an oil-drain pan with you---which is highly unlikely) is not recommended. This means a trip back to the garage, which, depending upon distance is time-consuming and frustrating (especially with narrow planting "windows" and "weather" moving in....) Chains aren't very expensive, but if your sprockets are worn that is an expensive proposition! There are good reasons why manufacturers have opted to build with gears (even tho that is undoubtedly more expensive than chain/sprocket const.) and I think it's because they "got tired of" warrantied chain-driven tillers being returned for repairs/adjustments.
Thanks for your comment. I think I mentioned that I prefer gear drive, right???
Needed this video a couple months ago! Bought the Chinese tiller from agri supply and it was cheaper than tractor supply. But I love it. Tilled a small garden to begin with and planted watermelons, carrots, and potatoes.
Tiller Rule #1 on display!
The finance committee has spoken!! She wants a camera mount for the truck so you better get to finding her one. Lots of great information today. Rule #1 is correct.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Hi Tim, I actually own a BX25D Kubota (very similar to your Jonny 1025). I want to thank you for showing your audiences the different products, how they are used, and how you use yours. I learned a lot about sub-compact tractors for you.
Thank You !!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice informative video, Re slipping clutch transmition shaft, if you are not using the slipping clutch drive shaft often they stick, any slight moisture that may get in starts oxidization(rust) on the shiney metal discs that soon rust even with normal air humidity so its always best to check with a couple of prize barrs to make sure it slips before you start. Quite often you can tell the different types of drive by looking at the cover, the gear drive usually has an outward dimple between the top and bottom gears, this is to give clearence for the nut holding the centre gear on gear drives, with chain drives this is not needed.
Lots of great information, I work at a tiller distributor. Gear driven is more expensive to repair and maintain your slip clutch.
RE: 6 tine tillers. They use considerably more HP so check with dealer on their requirement. EXCELLENT video.
What a lovely description and explanation of the overall function and features of the rototiller. I'm looking for one right now so the info has helped me look a little closer to the actual details of each brand. Thank you. What I'm finding is that most stores carrying them don't have any trained personnel so information is not truly reliable. Thanks again outstanding vidio without the annoying camera movements and unnecessary and annoying personal fluff.
as the guy that primarily designed and programmed the robots that make tarter tillers. I appreciate the good review 😊
A REALLY good clear instructional video, PERFECT, just what I wanted.
Tim, one thing that people with clutch protected equipment need to remember is that they need to be burned yearly to make sure they are not rusted/frozen. I knew a guy that destroyed a baler when the clutch was rusted and the clutch didn’t slip when a fence post went in. 😭
burned?
@@bobcutlip9448 Slip the clutch. Basically you need to loosen the bolts on the slip clutch a little bit, then repeatedly engage and disengage the PTO to allow the clutch disc(s) to slip which ensures the clutch isn't seized by rust, dirt, etc. Then tighten the bolts back down you'll need a feeler gauge and follow the directions in the manual for the tiller to reset the clutch disc clearance. Only takes a few minutes to do, and highly recommended, rather required...if that clutch is seized up and you hit something it can cause damage to the gearbox on the tiller and/or the tractor's PTO.
I have found that one of the best ways to check a hard used tiller is not the tines but the discs they are bolted to, the tines are easily replacable as they wear out and also break but changing the discs is a lot harder to do, so check how much the side corners are rounded over arround the edges, you can compare that to the part directly under the tine.
Speaking of tine wear: I had the good fortune to find/buy an old Howard P50 that someone, when the tines were not yet worn, had welded three "rows" of "hard-surfacing rod" on the top (shaft side) and one row along the leading edges on the opposite side of the tines---they will not wear out in MY lifetime!
But Derek is absolutely correct: look carefully at the horizontal portions of the tines BEFORE you even consider purchasing a used tiller---those tines have a tale to tell! (any "rounding" indicates a whole lotta "rubbing...")
If you actually ask a tiller company that makes both gear and chain drive tillers, they will tell you that as a manufacturer they actually see better results from the chain drive models. However people tend to assume that gear drives are better, and so everyone is offering one now.
better is probably not the right word. Maybe a better explanation is that there was never anything wrong with chain drive, and building a gear drive tiller is more expensive for no reason.
Worked at a sod farm and I have an ancient chain drive tiller. The Chain drives have more "give" with the slack in the chain so hitting rocks you have a buffer. Gear drive, if one tooth goes, it takes them all out. Price too, why not chain. I think a replacement chain is way cheaper than gears.
Makes sense!
Messick Farm Equipment @ LOL... The tiller makers will tell you that chain drive is better... Because it's so much cheaper for them to make and they make about $200.00 more of a chain drive tiller than a gear drive... But anyone that has had both will tell you that Gear Drive is the Best... Much stronger...
Sweet Pig Farm @ LOL... That's what a slip clutch is for... To protect the Gears... You do know that your Top Gear Box on that ancient chain drive tiller has gears in it right...
Tim, I had so many unanswered questions regarding tilers and you answered them. Ty my friend
Another week or two and my tiller will get to work. Hope yesterday's snow is the last one till next winter. Ground is very soft so we need some sun. Great video.
We’re supposed to get snow tomorrow and Saturday.
Thanks for all the information. I've been toying with the idea of getting a tiller for my new JD2038R. If the snow ever melts here in Maine I'll be tiller shopping.
Great video production !
Sound was great, clips and narration went together well, full of honest information ! Nice work.
Thanks for the kind words.
Great vedio!!! I am a new user and I'm repairing a broken chain. I'm concerned that there are shear bolts (or slip plates) that have not been maintained for years. How do I remove the cowling that protects the PTO shaft at both ends so that I can inspect either the slip plates or the shear bolts?
I have a 1025 and a JD tiller. I've used it all over the acreage. From the garden to the rose garden and water way/dry creek. Yes it is handy. I use it as a counter balance sometimes and other times I use my large mower. Powered tillers are handy.
Martin Eastburn lol once i put on my 3 bottom plow for some extra counterbalance when trying to take some big bites of snow with my bucket
I don’t have a question or comment except to commend you on your presentation-Very Good!
Thanks! Very kind!
Tim even tho this video doesn't apply to me since I don't own a tractor LOL I thought this was a very informative video for those owning or looking to buy a sub compact tractor and will be looking at tillers for it as well I will say I don't think I would own a sub compact tractor with out a tiller Yours is one of the most versatile tools I have seen. You use it on so many different jobs and situations and it seems to work well for most if not all of them and remember always refer to rule #1. LOL Thumbs up for Christy taking the video go by a car mount camera holder. LOL There Christy I told him. Hope you guys have a great week and God Bless!!!
Great video Tim! I remember the rebar incident at 6:44! I remember almost swallowing my gum! I was shocked and impressed that you came away without damage! Thanks!
Yea, it wasn't one of my favorite memories. ...but it proved that the little King Kutter Tiller is tough as nails.
Thanks for the info! I've only, once, rented a tiller for my 1026r and it did an awesome job for the job it had to perform... far better than I had originally expected of it. I don't have enough use for one right now, to warrant buying one, but I hope to in the future.
I use a Tar River Implement chain drive 50 inch tiller on my BX and love it. Never heard of the brand before but the dealer we got the tractor from let us have it brand new for $1250.
Still loving your tar river? Looking to invest in one and I'm not familiar with the brand either.
A second point, You can get different shaped blades for different jobs. I used to use a blade called a speed blade. This blade curved to about 45 degrees not the full 90 degrees of the blades shown on this video. I used to have one drum with the normal blades and a second drum with the speed blades. I used the speed blades for the first 1 or 2 passes as they did a better job of cutting up the trash then swapped drums and went deeper to create a seed bed
I know I've brought this up to you before, but thought its worth mentioning again. With my Woods tiller, they used a single bolt and rely on compression to keep the tines in place. They came lose and I had a hard time getting them realigned and wound up back to the dealer to get them tightened back into place. Where as a shear bolt design that your tiller looks like it uses would be a much easier fix. Maybe I just don't yet have the "know how" to get my system working properly, time will tell.
I love my suction mount phone holder!!! It even stays put on my Jeep Wrangler with the top off lol. Also love y’all’s videos!!! Keep it up
Great timing Tim. I'm looking into a tiller for my 2305. Thanks for the info.
When I bought my 2305 new, I had the JD dealer throw in a 4' Khun and I have used it for 6 years now and love everything about it.
Tiller Rule #1
my kubota dealer has woods,bush hog and land pride tillers on sale 4 and 5 feet wide for $2100
Tim, this video was so helpful and reassuring for me as I am basically still a Green/New owner of a John Deere Subcompact tractor! I will feel much more confident when I choose the tiller I want to purchase.👍 Thank you!!🇺🇸
Very nice video...by the way...Land Pride tillers are made in the US....here in central Kansas to be exact.
Sorry about missing them. I suspect there are other US manufacturers as well.
Land Pride makes some of the best quality implements out there imo
Didn't Woods buy them and now own both ?
No. Kubota owns Land Pride.
Great timing! I am looking for a tiller for my tractor. Thanks for the video. You all always do great. God bless you both.
You won’t regret it!
I'm trying to find an atachment to first break up reed grass and level very uneven ground? Tried scarfire it just dragged huge clumps if sod then a disc over n over doesn't cut in at all? So a garden ain't looking too doable? Tiller be nice as so as?
awesome video... solid advice from TTWT as always
one of my cousins has a tillervator.. its a 12' wide tiller with tines sniped where the crop grows.. it is made to do what a cultivator does in weed removal but also tills the soil in the middle of the plants for some reason...
Great vid with lots of info about tillers. Well done.
Tim, I have a JD 2032R that I use a JD647 tiller on and yes the tractor is wider than the tiller so I have to overlap a little when tilling. The 647 came with the 1025r I had so when I upgraded the tiller was paid for so it didn’t make sense to get a new one. One thing I found was that if it was not level it put the drive chain in a bind and caused it to break. So it’s a good idea especially for first use each year to make sure the tiller is level front to back and side to side. I do that now and haven’t broke a chain in 3 years use on a 2 acre garden.
Interesting. First I’ve heard of a broken drive chain.
Yes, indeed. But have you EVER heard of a "broken GEAR drive?" One commenter mentioned "broken tooth" on gears but I haven't "lived long enough" to see one...but then, I'm only 71... I'll "take my chances" with gearing over chain-ing any/and every day!
Just bought a woods tiller for my Bx25d,like you said I love it!
RT1149 is awesome. I love it. It's my favorite implement. Plus it's green.
Excellent, no nonsense review. Thanks for this !
Thanks for this video. I was told by someone that has a lawn care business that If I got a rototiller for the back of my 53hp John Deere 4520 I'd regret it. I'd have a lot of breakdowns with it. The tiller breaking that is. He said rocks will definitely damage it. I have a chance to buy a well used Howard Rotavator J 6' tiller for a reasonable price but kind of decided to skip it until I saw this video and saw that tiller bouncing on that hard packed dirt. I realize that you have to use your head any time you use a tractor for anything. I just wonder if his misgivings were right. I have a couple of rather large fields to plow, about 5 acres each because the owner wants them leveled out. They're pretty bumpy and all I have is a one bottom plow and some worn out disk harrows and thought it would be faster with a tiller. This is the only time I've been asked to rototill with this tractor so I don't want to go the expense of a brand new tiller. Any thoughts about this guy's warning about incurring damage?
We have many episodes with our tiller. Check them out. I would NOT be without my tiller!
Thanks for the quick response. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos
Look at older episodes if you have the chance. You will see lots of tiller action.
There should be enough to answer your questions.
Awesome video. Most of your videos are just entertaining demonstrations and just make me want to run out and buy, but this video is full of practical owner-based reviews. Keep a good mix of both as they are great!
Thanks Eric. You might be surprised to hear that producing good entertainment focused videos surrounding the Tractor theme is MUCH more difficult than creating the informational type.
I know there are a lot of videos watching other youtubers use their machines with little explanation of what's going on until they shut the tractor down and walk back to the camera. Those videos have some value I guess but they are hard to watch for 15 minutes.
Thanks Tim, I just bought the same model for my "Johnny"
Absolutely agree on loving my tiller. They are such great implements.
more info than I thought there could be about a tiller. LOVED the video. I hope you already purchased the suction cup camera holder!
Super thorough and most helpful. Thanks!
Hi Tim. I've watched off and on for awhile. Having just bought a new piece of virgin ground for a new homestead, I knew I was going to need something for my BX 2360 to till about an acre for the yard. There was a lot of small growth trees we're clearing with a dozer, but Oh Boy the roots! I'm buying a King Kutter XB tomorrow (I think). Think it will do the job? Most of them are thumb size or smaller. The soil is loose but really rough after the dozer does it's thing. Thanks!
Edit: I just found the vid on the new 3 acre yard.
I LIKE UR COMMENT ON TILLERS. I HAVE SUB COMPACT N/H I WAS GOING TO BUY A 4FT. BUT I OPT NOT TO BECAUSE I HAVE 3/4 LAND WITH HOUSE ON IT. SO I OPT FOR A HAND 140 CC PULL BACK TILLER.
IM MAKING A DRIVWAY FOR MY SHED WHICH 16X20 I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO PUT A TILLER ON THE TRACTOR AND MANUVERABLITY WOULD BE REALY HARD.
TKS FOR ALL UR COMMENTS AND IDEA'S.
I KNOW U HAVE NOT PUT LIGHTS ON JOHNY YET , THAT IS MY NEXT ADVENTURE , I BOUGHT A 15" LED BAR LT. FOR SO WHEN WORKING AT NIGHT I CAN SEE .
I have the Deere light options.
I wouldn't exactly say King Cutter and Tartar are the two major brands. There are much larger brands such as BushHog and LandPride that make tillers here in America. I would also disagree with rule number one. There are vast differences in quality of products used and build quality among brands. If you get a cheaper tiller, you are getting a cheaper product that will not last as long or do as good of a job. I have seen many people who have went for the "economic" option and after tearing it up regretted their decision. I would say my personal favorite tiller is the new ones made by Dirt Dog but always remember to compare specs to specs.
Thanks for the info Tim, I’m ready to pull the strings on a tiller but like you said they are so many and I’m leaning on kk the price out of state runs around $1550 and around me (Georgia) runs around $1899 can’t decide. Get a window mount for Christy. Lol
thumbs up for the camera lady
perfect timing for this vid. i'm shopping around for a tiller.
Thanks for sharing! You Oughta try the magnetic mount with the ball
Thank you!!!! I really needed this video!!!! Could you also do a video on rottery mowers
We'll see how this one fares. Seems like folks SAY they want informational videos, but the view counts indicate that folks really want entertainment videos :-)
I have a 6' king kutter tiller. You can't get a nicer looking garden bed IMO. I've owned it 6 years and tilled several gardens twice a year. Zero troubles. Best part is it's half the price of John Deere's.
I love my KK tiller as well!
Great video. Thanks for the info I'm looking to purchase a tiller soon.
Great job explaining the products
Enjoyed the video. Lot of good info here. One thing I didn't catch is if you had any preference of forward vs reverse rotation tines? Prayers for your Dad for a speedy recovery. Those harvesting videos you made with him last fall were very interesting.
Look at our website for the info on rotation direction
Sorry, I saw that link after I had posted the comment. "Got my answer'
Thanks. Never thought about one but I enjoyed the very thoughtful insite into the world of tillers. Two thumbs up. Drifterbike
Thanks Drifter. Hard to believe how useful it is. It even makes other dirt work easier.
Very helpful info. Planning to go with a Dirt Dog RT205. Thank you!
Tim, in order to get a wide tiller into a narrow gate, drop the tiller and carry it with the loader into the tilling location, then reattach. Yes it's an extra step but it gets the tiller into the backyard.
Sure, but at what cost? Tilling is low margin. Folks with a back fence want a 10x10 garden and want it tilled for $20! I am not gonna remove my tiller and reattach it for these small jobs.
I really like what you guys are doing. Great information, terrific focus on family. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Question for all, What would it hurt to use both a slip clutch AND a shear bolt? I know that slip clutches need burning off at regular intervals and just thinking extra insurance. Thanks for all the informative videos!
Doesn’t really make sense. Shear bolts are annoying.
I got yanmar rs1200 it needed little work but got it decent price it's 4ft realy built good all gear drive I'm pulling it with a yanmar ym155d
making a big upgrade for personal/business traded in my x724 lawn mower for a 1025r and a 4 ft tiller to replace/ help a ford naa julibee. the ford would run 5 ft tiller ok but when stepping on clutch you would stop right away and would take more passes to grind up sod can not wait to till with live pto
You will LOVE this combination! 1025r and 4’ tiller is perfect pair. Independent PTO makes all the difference!
Ok for breaking up soil in a carport. I need to move about 6" of dirt out so I can pour a concrete slab. A tiller or a box blade or what should I use to break up the soil?
Tiller can work great to start. Just remember that you cannot leave ANY loose soil under concrete. So, if you till, you must remove all of that loose soil
Great guidelines to know, Tim. Currently in the market and "kickin' tires!"
Good job Tim, a lot of good information!
Hi Tim,
How about a video onTiller maintenance. Maybe tips on lubing the PTO shaft. I've learned a lot about tractors from you.
Thanks
I typically do not lube the shaft...meaning the telescoping portion. I DO grease the universal joints frequently.
Really enjoyed this very good!
Great video tim! I have been in the market for over a year now. And i still dont know what I want. I keep hoping for a used one to pop up on craigslist and get a screaming deal. But no such luck. Thanks for the vid, gave me some things to think about
I think tiller prices have gone up a little bit.
What would be a good choice for my L175 Kubota? 17hp
Thanks for the video. My question did you have to shorten the pto shaft for the King kutter db to work on you r tractor. I just bought the same brand and have the same tractor and haven’t hooked up the pro shaft yet. Thanks for the videos.
Yes, you will likely need to shorten the shaft. No big deal. I believe everything attachments has a video showing how to do it.
I just measured mine and it doesn’t appear I need to shorten. I am using the harbor freight quick hitch and made your recommended db mods for quick hitch.
No need to measure. If you can put the shaft on while the tiller is attached, you are fine. In my case, the shaft was so long that I couldn’t retract it far enough to slide it onto the PTO.
Very nice and helpful video. Thank you very much.
Thanks for sharing the tips, Tim!!
I looked at every tiller available to mankind and if you are searching for the best it’s an Aison. I paid a pretty penny for it but it’s leaps & bounds above all others I researched. It’s gear driven, has 6 tines per flange and with a double spring loaded back gate you can till any ground and make it turn to fine dirt in one pass! I looked at TS version and LP and everyone in between and I can’t say enough how awesome this Aison is. You can get parts at any Kubota dealer and many other parts houses and it just kicks a$$...
After spending all that money, how are you going to feel about running it through rocky ground?
Tractor Time with Tim I did, the first time I brought it to the camp I had to run it through a field that had a lot of 6” and better stumps. I knew better but I tilled the field anyway, broke about 5 tines but got the field tilled. It chewed up the smaller stumps and broke up some of the bigger ones. I did try to pick up on the bigger stumps to keep from damaging unit. I had to spend $50 on new tines and that was two years ago and haven’t looked back. This thing is a beast. Wish I could show a pic of it on here.
Tiller rule #1. Everyone is happy with their tiller.
Check back this afternoon at 3pm for our largest tilling project ever 3-4 acres of tilling with Johnny.
Tractor Time with Tim I agree, and I hope what I was saying wasn’t coming across as pompous or being a smart but cause it wasn’t intended that way. I agree with you that no matter what tiller someone purchases they will Love it!
nice video Tim lots of good information
That was a very informative video! Thanks, Tim!
Tim, I have farm in Florida, some area i had done filling with 4 feet mulch its now 4 years i want to turn over those mulch say 2 feet, so i can get better soil on top. what attachment i should use ? tiller only goes 6-8 inch so advise me please
Wow. 2 ft. Loader bucket?
GOOD JOB Tim & helper
What equipment ie tiller, would you use for a 2500 Ft. grass runway with some light gravel mixed into the surface. The runway surface is 40 years old. A tiller used on this runway would need to be used also to level the surface in some locations to make the entire runway Flat. What tine would work best?
I think I would recommend a ‘power rake’ also called a ‘Harley rake’ for that job.
Tillers don’t do well with rocks.
We have demonstrated a power rake in our ‘volunteering with Ventrac’ video.
I find that a lot of older equipment made for Cat. 1 hitches do not have the correct height for the center link and as a result will not work with a quick hitch... I am making an adaptor for my quick hitch to take care of that problem...
Really enjoying your videos Tim - that tractor show you were visiting looks awesome. Where are some of the good ones to attend?
This one in Louisville, mid Feb is the best. Really the only one with sufficient compact tractor presence to make it worthwhile.
Thanks for watching!
Curious if you have heard of HAUS up your way. We've ran one since '98. Easily converts from forward rotation to reverse. It's been one tough lil implement for the hard red rocky clay of NorWest NC
I don't think I've ever heard of them.
My bad..one day I will learn to check speech to text. Should have read Howse
My advice based on my extensive use of a tiller. 3 ft is plenty for sub compact. Heavy frame, gear drive, adjustable slipper clutch and four tines per flange. Chain drives will never be as strong. Six tines need more power and more prone to bogging up.
I adjust the slipper clutch until it does not slip in moist ground. Your a fool if you use it on dry hard ground. To hard on the whole machine. Take your time and dont push the tiller to hard. Better to go slow and multiple pass. Dont try to cut max depth on the first pass unless the ground is already well broken. If you have a sub soiler, use that first before tilling. I criss cross with the sub soiler if its going to be hard going.
3 ft!?!?! I don’t even know where you would find 3ft tiller. I highly recommend 4’ for sub-compact tractors like BX and Deere 1-series.
Tractor Time with Tim. Three Foot. made in China. But good solid unit. Big tillers need more power and put a lot of strain on sub compact PTO’s. Sub compacts are toys really.
To many guys are asking to much of them.
This was all fine and good but one really important aspect was left out in my opinion,,, That is tilling depth.. When we bought our property, I wanted the biggest garden my body could handle. That ended up being 30,000 square feet.. I had a old trusty troy built big red walk behind tiller, but I couldnt get through the sod.. Hired a guy who came out and "tilled" the garden for me with a little 3 or 4 foot attachment. looked great till I walked through and it was only 2 inches deep.. Since the sod was gone, Ole trusty big red got it the rest of the way.. But it takes me around a week to till my darn garden walking that slow and going over it 2 or 3 times.. So how is the depth on those things and how is it controlled?
We have many tilling episodes. Check them out. Each trip over allows the tiller to go deeper. Your hired guy should have tilled it twice.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you, I will check them out
Good Morning Tim and MrsTim! I've watched your tiller videos and I'm familiar with tiller rule #1 but that being said I would like to purchase a tar river tiller from Courtney at Good Works. I can't find out much about them review wise. Tim any info you could pass on would be greatly appreciated. Looking at the specs there are heavier tillers out there. The 60 inch weighs in at a touch over #400. Thank you and stay safe.
I have no opinion, as I have never used one.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you for the very fast response sir. Well I guess rule number one it is then
Here are my guidelines:
- 6 tines per flange
- gear drive (instead of chain)
- centered (for 4’ model a behind subcompact tractors)
- slip clutch instead of shear bolt.
- quick hitch compatible
My current favorite is the Tarter / County Line (TSC) ...this is the same tiller.
Hi Tim I've noticed on several of your videos. When you are using Johnny without the front loader I always notice the quick pins are dangling in the air on their lanyards. Are you aware of those little welded lungs with about a half inch hole going through it is storage for your quick pin when they are not in use to keep them out of harms way all John Deere's with the quick release front bucket attachment have them.
Yes, aware. I just forget.
Thank you - really helps in making my purchase.
?do think I could exchange cutting colters for the teeth on my scarfire to cut up heavy reed canary grass very irregular horse pasture? Before wrapping up the tines with sod
Your tiller tines wrap with sod?
i am considering a tiller for my New Holland...i already have a one bottom plow, disk and cultivator though....
It is best for geir drive or chain drive for agriculture
Thanks for the review, very informative.