Hi Ken, You are most diligent on your repair of this condenser dryer. I am a Sears technician of 7 years and we are the number 1 service provider in the USA. Great news, your Dryer is operating as designed! Timed dry will deliver the unit to run and not stop for the set time you have selected. Auto dry will run the unit for the time show at the start or less. Auto dry will detect the clothes and turn off the dryer, in a shorter time, when the dryer determines the clothes are dry enough. The key point is 'Dry Enough". Condenser dryers have moist air circulating in the drum where the clothes are. This vent-less condition will always prevent the clothes from feeling completely dry. More like Slightly Damp. Reference video: Search: Cabana State of Mind > Customer review of 2 in 1 Combo Washer Dryer Review (3:55min mark) Thank you for all the SERIOUS work done to your dryer and the many hours it took you to test the unit and document this video.
@@magikdale Thank you very much from the professional person.i wonder why the dryer stops much earlier at the beginning of the cycle, when it's still damp. What is the reason?
@@kensuzuki9319 Hi Ken, What were the indicators on the panel when the dryer stops? Check your manual or UA-cam for the definition of the icons. Currently, is the dryer (In time mode) running the full period of time? Auto dry is an old system that is not very accurate. It never was accurate when it was invented. The moisture bars are separate conduction wires. (When you are testing the moisture bars - test each bar separately. To do this: connect one lead of the meter to the connector and then test continuity by touching the other meter lead to the bar farthest away from the connector. Repeat for the other moisture bar.) When wet clothes touches Both bars, a circuit is created and the CPU gets a pulse signal. This signal tells the CPU that the clothes are still wet. The dampness of clothes will create a tolerance of conductivity. When the clothes are not wet enough (Damp) to create a circuit then the pulse will not be created. The CPU monitors the pulses and if there are not enough of these pulses then the dry figures out that the load is dry enough. Now here is where the design is flawed. Consider: Small size clothes and large size clothes in the drum cavity. Which article of clothes will be dried first? (Smallest) How can the dryer selectively pass the wet clothes to the moisture bars? (It can not due to the random chaos of clothes turning within the drum) What if the smaller clothes are hitting the bars more often than the larger towels? My customers are taught to learn the time it takes to dry their loads. Every customer is different due to the types of cotton, wool, polyester items they have. Every customer loads different amounts of clothes into the dryer. (1/2full 2/3 full which is correct due to proper air flow and circulation. To 5/6 full Bad efficiency) My customers use Time settings and gauge the performance of the dryer from the outcome. They are also briefed on the Cabana State of Mind video to understand the expected dryer results.
@@magikdale Thank you very much of the system how it works. Does the dryer stops if the temperature in a drum is too high? Or how safety mechanism for heat works? I saw some sensor at the back of the dryer however what element is this heat sensor is looking at in general? The air coming from the drum?
You can soak heat exchanger in the water and leave it there for a while, you don't need to buy new one. Or you can use high pressure water cleaner (usually to wash a car) and clean it from the side (where the machine sends cold air). I have Bosch tumble dryer 14 and a half years now and all I had to do is clean it (after 8 or 9 years I had to clean it just like you did in your first video and about 4 years ago I cleaned it just like you did in this video - heater and all inside). Now I clean it from 2-4 weeks just from inside the exchanger (I also open that water part and clean it with a sponge so that it is cleaned and dried - because it is cleaned once a month you can check that motor pump for water and sensor). Great video! Keep up the good work. I believe it useful at least for those that would need it when first opening Bosch's tumble dryer - it would be useful 6 years ago when I first opened it 🙂
I see. I can try soaking the heat exchanger in a water. Definitely worth to try. Thank you. 14.5 years is great to keep going with your maintenance. I feel mine is nearly end of life but I try as you did. Thank you!
@@kensuzuki9319 People are always throwing used things away and buy new one. I have enough money to do that too, but I am not going to. There is enough trash everywhere and it is just building up. Repairing things is also something I love to do. That is why I believe almost anything can be repaired. There are always limits but some things can be just fixed (or cleaned) and some can be replaced with new parts while others are really just not worth doing that. When I moved together with my wife (then girlfriend) we bought all kitchen appliances. They are all 14,5 years old and some needed to be repaired (washing machine and fridge) while some needed to be just cleaned (dryer, oven, induction cook and dishwasher). They are all from Bosch but from what I heard today are not making them as good as before so maybe I am just lucky 🙂 Regarding soaking: I really believe something could be done by that. Leave it in water for some time to soak it good, then shake it in water (like bath or something big enough that it can be fully merged). Keeping my fingers crossed. Pressure water could be even better but I didn't try it myself.
@@tomazzaletel3458 I will definitely do the soaking method, that is something I can do for my continuous activity. Yes I agree the stance toward everything. I replaced heater pump on dish washer recently based on someone else's video, how to do, and it recovered working again. Things I can do I want to try to fix. We have so many things nowadays. Thanks for the comment! We keep going!
Dear Ken, Thank you for great illustrations. I got mine solved by changing the pump itself. For perspective, though the dryer is power rated @ 230v, 60Hz, I found out that the pump is rated at 230v 50Hz. Thus, as time passes by, the pump motor grows weaker and weaker as it draws higher amps than it is supposed to. Changing the pump with a 60Hz one (Part# Bosch 00145623) fixed the problem. Once again, I wouldn't have done it without your videos). Thank you and best regards.
Ohhh, that's great news! Mine isn't that perfect and still don't know why it still stops for once or twice. Your input is another point I can try. Thank you!
Thanks Ken, your persistence is admirable. I would take that dryer up to the top of my house and throw it onto the concrete below to see if that fixes it. My dryer looks the same as yours, but taking the back off looks too challenging to me. No wonder the manual says to clean the heat exchanger every 2 weeks, mine was also full of sludge. And still no water goes into the container.🤔
@@kensuzuki9319 I'm going to take the back off today and clean that pump and sump area. The dryer runs for quite some time and the clothes get hot but no water appears in the water tank. An annoying thing is that the manual mentions the moisture sensor being 'near the filter' but I can't find it for the life of me!
@@swhite1702 Yours sound like that the pump not working however I m not sure why. I don't think it's anything related to the humidity sensor though. The humidity sensor mine is just 2 metal pieces fitter at soon back of the front door, but nowadays ones I have seen those are on fins inside drum round surface, normally on each fins of 2 in a drum. Good luck.
I bought a Bosch serie 6 dryer yesterday but already regret it ... but with this usefull tips and do preventive maintenance i ll be probably tackling upcoming problems in the near future... when you do regular monthly maintenance on the heat exchanger compartiment en cleaning filters you probable have a machine that runs a lifetime without it wil stop . Again thanks for your clear presentation and apply to Bosch as engineer for development ..🙂
You made me laugh this morning as a start, thank you! I have heard that some new model has an access panel at the back of the machine. Yes they should have included this part, sump cleaning in the manual as well, which they missed it. BTY, mine isn't still the perfect and it stops sometimes once, sometimes twice in a cycle. Still going.
@@kensuzuki9319 was also laughing Ken...you sometimes sound like mr myagi from karate kid......where you r actually from Ken? I really like your perseverance...never give up on tackling problems...i work in the oil and gas industry on a gas platform in the North Sea...your attitude against solving problems that's a thing we really need in our industry here and encourage and embrace....
I am Japanese as you notified from that actor. You gave me a confident that I can carry on this till I die. Sound very cold and nasty weather condition up there!
Hi Ken, I like your video! I have a container full warning, I checked out and cleaned the condensor and back panel, the sensor inside, than tested the pump outside the machine first it worked nicely so build it in again it worked nicely for 20 seconds, so thought problem solved, build it up again cutting myself on the very sharp edges unbelievable its the first thing you learn in metal working class to burr off all edges maybe to expensive for Bosch ? Anyway in the end I found that the bearing of the pump is shot by ingress of water, so it worked intermittantly, new bearing or pump solved my problem, Cheers from the Netherlands.
I had a bit of a fix by blowing-very hard, it started to hurt- into the end of the drain hose. Consider yourself warned about potential personal damage to your ear and nose parts. Probably best to try a safer way to force air in. Because the clog in my case recurs in the exit channel of the pump. Cool thing is, you can see it when you pull the pump, and unclip the white cover over the impeller that lives in the sludge pool. The clog is weirdly delicate and gooey. I found my pump wasn’t fully clear when I swapped it for new last year (fat lot of good that did). It was maybe 30% clogged. We’re talking about the part on the pump housing that goes from horizontal to vertical. It’s maybe 6-7mm diameter. Anyway, forcing air in basically pushes that thick glob back into the tank so you can wipe it out with a facecloth by reaching in from the front. I mean really, after dealing with this over 7 years, in my case-check drain error clears for a few cycles after clean the sludge tub-it’s basically a lint buildup issue. Lint is obviously blowing by the filter and seals and collecting in the channels instead of collecting in the fluff filter. Some weird dense fibrous blobs form in places and seem to to migrate to unfortunate places. I also get persistent dust buildup in my home after running the dryer, so I’m confident it’s not trapping the lint inside. Fun fact, the official Bosch how to clean dryer video shows an added filter between the condenser and the front cover, which mine doesn’t have, and there’s no room for. So maybe they recognize the “limitation” of this design? And good luck to you all who have read this far. Applause to Ken for this excellent video and guidance.
I guess no matter how much of filter is prepared the tiniest lint can anyway go through it and cause issues to the following process areas. To be honest I wasn't sure that the pressure theory that increases temperature inside the drum is really the case. I made up the theory in the second video. However the clearing the air path seem always important. Thank you for your advice and experience to share.
I had the same problem and found out that it is the main motor overheating. I run the dryer with the side panel taken off, this would let lots of cool air in from the room. The machine didn't stop even once. My plan is to replace the motor, which costs around $150 or I will drill some more ventilation holes at the back of the dryer. For now, we are using the machine with the side panel off :)
That's interesting story nobody commented before. Over heat tracked by some heat sensor or some circuit to notice the higher ampere. Ummm. When my machine stops it's always at the beginning, and rest are ok. Maybe your theory is related to this. Thank you for your comment.
@@kensuzuki9319 the symptoms were the same, in the first 5 mins of program start the machine stops, when restarted sometimes completes the program, sometimes stops again. I first tried blowing some cool air with a fan while the side panel off, then I realized that I don't need the fan, keeping the panel off was enough.
Ken, this was so informative and useful. I just found this video after watching video 1 and 3. Thanks for explaining the air flow. we’re still having the same problems with ours (heat sensor warning on). But i’m wondering now if the issue is the thermostat or high temp sensor. Again. Thank you!
I think now the issue is not from the physical unit like sensors but from the operating unit. I am still thinking whether I pat £170 for replacing it even if it may not fix. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It is significant that your dryer stops without an error code. This suggests that it stops under “normal” conditions, or at least the condition that makes it stop is not defined as a fault in the dryer’s firmware. My very similar Bosch dryer always stops before the laundry is dry, but it runs for an hour or more before it stops. I have always suspected that the humidity sensor reads no conductivity many minutes before it should. Anyway, as a workaround or test, you could try the timed dry mode in the dial, and then add time by pressing the Time Dry button. My dryer runs for the preset time, independent of the dryness of the laundry. If yours also turns off during timed mode, wouldn’t that mean the limiter circuit is engaging?
Hi, Thanks for the comment and info. Sorry I had to say that my dryer stops by "Fluff filter /Heat exchanger" fault with the red 3 bar horizontal mark alarm. I have tried 20 minutes force run and even with that it stopped in a middle before finishing 20 minutes cycle, but now this is better. However it's worth try again. And I never done time set run more than 20 min auto run setting. Thank you, I still have many things to do before giving up this dryer.
@@kensuzuki9319 Okay, I can see why you are clearing fluff and stuck-on lint from the back of the dryer and replacing the heat exchanger. My machine gets the more traditional "Check Drain" alarm, beeps, and stops. Then I clear the lint from the pump basin, wash the heat exchanger, and clean lint/fluff from the channel below the fluff filter, and in the channel behind the heat exchanger. I already replaced the pump once, but could have just removed and cleaned the original. My next step is to replace the fluff filter itself, because there is a lot getting past the filter. I would just replace the whole dryer if it were not so expensive- USD $1200-2000. I have never put so much work into a laundry dryer!
Thank you so much for your informative videos! I have exactly the same dryer and problem, the dryer stops after some minutes and tells me to clean the filter although everything has been cleaned before. I removed and cleaned the sensor now, and there was a lot of dirt behind it. Although you say, with the humidity at the beginning of the process, the sensor should not have a problem, I think if there is too much dirt, the humidity can't reach the sensors well to connect them and this might tell the machine that everything is dry. I'm curious whether my problem will be better now. Greetings from Germany!
Thank you Daniela, for your comment! Mine still stops once or twice in a cycle which I don't know why. I am making the 3rd video of this topic now, just I am enjoying and hope yours get better.
I think it's something different issue if it doesn't heat up. However not waste to clean the heat exchanger and the sump. I had an issue of not heating up on my dryer which the cause was because I didn't fit the heater unit back properly, that the earthing wasn't working properly. I refitted the heating unit at the back of the dryer then it solved the issue. I don't think you have removed the heating unit so it's hard to know what's wrong with yours.
Dear Ken. I opened up the back of my machine and had zero sticky stuff. Suspect you use fabric softener in your washing machine and this is the sticky stuff?
I don't think we used fabric softener but it w Has been long time, I guess it is 8 years or so time usage if fluff were attached. Also if the new machines are better at blocking all fluffs on the filtered mesh then other area including heat exchanger should be kept as relatively clean. Thank you for your comment.
Hi Ken, I have cleaned everything, but the error is still there. Now I am going after [POWER INTEGRATIONS TNY266PN AC/DC changer] on a control board which could be faulty. I got this inspiration on a forum in German language..
That's sounds more complicated. I wonder it improves the condition. Please let me know if you do the change of it. I wonder how often yours stops in one cycle? Thank you for the comment.
@@kensuzuki9319 Hi Ken, the replacement of the TNY266PN and changing two nearby capacitors for bigger and more quality ones helped. It has been confirmed by about 10 complete drying cycles. But anyway thanks for your videos, thanks to you is my tumble dryer clean again.
Mine had 2 clips at the front, which I had to squeeze inward to release the catch of the clip against the main housing. So it is to pull after releasing the clips catch. Is there any as such clipping feature on the cover? Or just plain surface? It was a bit awkward to remove it.
Did you watch my the first video of this tumble dryer, Bosch tumble dryer keeps stopping every 5 minutes? Maybe fluffs accumulation in the sump? But you said water empty symbol, which is for just to empty the water from the container, normally located at the upper part of the dryer.
I have the same problem… if I remove heat exchanger and dry up a few drops of water and put it back, it then runs the cycle 🤞🏽 and then same story for the next round
Ken! I think I may have found my issue! There's a switching component on the PCB that gets very hot, very quickly so I suspect it has developed a fault. It's a TNY266GN and they cost less than £1. I think the problem has been getting worse for some time and now the dryer only runs for a minute at most.
Misery loves company! I've had this issue and gotten so bad,I dry clothes on a rack. Bosch repair will cost a fortune as I learned with my Bosch microwave and oven and then rangetop. Guess what I learned from this expensive lesson and what brand name I will NEVER buy again.
Hi Ken, You are most diligent on your repair of this condenser dryer. I am a Sears technician of 7 years and we are the number 1 service provider in the USA.
Great news, your Dryer is operating as designed! Timed dry will deliver the unit to run and not stop for the set time you have selected. Auto dry will run the unit for the time show at the start or less. Auto dry will detect the clothes and turn off the dryer, in a shorter time, when the dryer determines the clothes are dry enough.
The key point is 'Dry Enough". Condenser dryers have moist air circulating in the drum where the clothes are. This vent-less condition will always prevent the clothes from feeling completely dry. More like Slightly Damp.
Reference video: Search: Cabana State of Mind > Customer review of 2 in 1 Combo Washer Dryer Review (3:55min mark)
Thank you for all the SERIOUS work done to your dryer and the many hours it took you to test the unit and document this video.
@@magikdale Thank you very much from the professional person.i wonder why the dryer stops much earlier at the beginning of the cycle, when it's still damp. What is the reason?
@@kensuzuki9319 Hi Ken, What were the indicators on the panel when the dryer stops? Check your manual or UA-cam for the definition of the icons.
Currently, is the dryer (In time mode) running the full period of time?
Auto dry is an old system that is not very accurate. It never was accurate when it was invented. The moisture bars are separate conduction wires. (When you are testing the moisture bars - test each bar separately. To do this: connect one lead of the meter to the connector and then test continuity by touching the other meter lead to the bar farthest away from the connector. Repeat for the other moisture bar.)
When wet clothes touches Both bars, a circuit is created and the CPU gets a pulse signal. This signal tells the CPU that the clothes are still wet. The dampness of clothes will create a tolerance of conductivity. When the clothes are not wet enough (Damp) to create a circuit then the pulse will not be created. The CPU monitors the pulses and if there are not enough of these pulses then the dry figures out that the load is dry enough.
Now here is where the design is flawed. Consider: Small size clothes and large size clothes in the drum cavity. Which article of clothes will be dried first? (Smallest) How can the dryer selectively pass the wet clothes to the moisture bars? (It can not due to the random chaos of clothes turning within the drum) What if the smaller clothes are hitting the bars more often than the larger towels?
My customers are taught to learn the time it takes to dry their loads. Every customer is different due to the types of cotton, wool, polyester items they have. Every customer loads different amounts of clothes into the dryer. (1/2full 2/3 full which is correct due to proper air flow and circulation. To 5/6 full Bad efficiency)
My customers use Time settings and gauge the performance of the dryer from the outcome. They are also briefed on the Cabana State of Mind video to understand the expected dryer results.
@@magikdale Thank you very much of the system how it works. Does the dryer stops if the temperature in a drum is too high? Or how safety mechanism for heat works? I saw some sensor at the back of the dryer however what element is this heat sensor is looking at in general? The air coming from the drum?
You can soak heat exchanger in the water and leave it there for a while, you don't need to buy new one. Or you can use high pressure water cleaner (usually to wash a car) and clean it from the side (where the machine sends cold air). I have Bosch tumble dryer 14 and a half years now and all I had to do is clean it (after 8 or 9 years I had to clean it just like you did in your first video and about 4 years ago I cleaned it just like you did in this video - heater and all inside). Now I clean it from 2-4 weeks just from inside the exchanger (I also open that water part and clean it with a sponge so that it is cleaned and dried - because it is cleaned once a month you can check that motor pump for water and sensor).
Great video! Keep up the good work.
I believe it useful at least for those that would need it when first opening Bosch's tumble dryer - it would be useful 6 years ago when I first opened it 🙂
I see. I can try soaking the heat exchanger in a water. Definitely worth to try. Thank you. 14.5 years is great to keep going with your maintenance. I feel mine is nearly end of life but I try as you did. Thank you!
@@kensuzuki9319 People are always throwing used things away and buy new one. I have enough money to do that too, but I am not going to. There is enough trash everywhere and it is just building up. Repairing things is also something I love to do. That is why I believe almost anything can be repaired. There are always limits but some things can be just fixed (or cleaned) and some can be replaced with new parts while others are really just not worth doing that. When I moved together with my wife (then girlfriend) we bought all kitchen appliances. They are all 14,5 years old and some needed to be repaired (washing machine and fridge) while some needed to be just cleaned (dryer, oven, induction cook and dishwasher). They are all from Bosch but from what I heard today are not making them as good as before so maybe I am just lucky 🙂
Regarding soaking: I really believe something could be done by that. Leave it in water for some time to soak it good, then shake it in water (like bath or something big enough that it can be fully merged). Keeping my fingers crossed. Pressure water could be even better but I didn't try it myself.
@@tomazzaletel3458 I will definitely do the soaking method, that is something I can do for my continuous activity. Yes I agree the stance toward everything. I replaced heater pump on dish washer recently based on someone else's video, how to do, and it recovered working again. Things I can do I want to try to fix. We have so many things nowadays. Thanks for the comment! We keep going!
Dear Ken,
Thank you for great illustrations.
I got mine solved by changing the pump itself. For perspective, though the dryer is power rated @ 230v, 60Hz, I found out that the pump is rated at 230v 50Hz. Thus, as time passes by, the pump motor grows weaker and weaker as it draws higher amps than it is supposed to.
Changing the pump with a 60Hz one (Part# Bosch 00145623) fixed the problem.
Once again, I wouldn't have done it without your videos).
Thank you and best regards.
Ohhh, that's great news! Mine isn't that perfect and still don't know why it still stops for once or twice. Your input is another point I can try. Thank you!
Thanks Ken, your persistence is admirable.
I would take that dryer up to the top of my house and throw it onto the concrete below to see if that fixes it.
My dryer looks the same as yours, but taking the back off looks too challenging to me.
No wonder the manual says to clean the heat exchanger every 2 weeks, mine was also full of sludge.
And still no water goes into the container.🤔
You might have found the better way to fix it before me! I'm gonna give a jump kick next in the video! Ha! 😁
@@kensuzuki9319 I'm going to take the back off today and clean that pump and sump area.
The dryer runs for quite some time and the clothes get hot but no water appears in the water tank.
An annoying thing is that the manual mentions the moisture sensor being 'near the filter' but I can't find it for the life of me!
@@swhite1702 Yours sound like that the pump not working however I m not sure why. I don't think it's anything related to the humidity sensor though. The humidity sensor mine is just 2 metal pieces fitter at soon back of the front door, but nowadays ones I have seen those are on fins inside drum round surface, normally on each fins of 2 in a drum. Good luck.
@@kensuzuki9319 looks like I can't access the pump and sump without further dismantling the back.
well done ken they is light at the end of tunnel for a fix on our drayer thanks .great vid
@@mjbally5841 Thank you for the compliment! I still don't fully understand the dryer though.
I bought a Bosch serie 6 dryer yesterday but already regret it ... but with this usefull tips and do preventive maintenance
i ll be probably tackling upcoming problems in the near future... when you do regular monthly maintenance on the heat exchanger compartiment en cleaning filters you probable have a machine that runs a lifetime without it wil stop .
Again thanks for your clear presentation and apply to Bosch as engineer for development ..🙂
You made me laugh this morning as a start, thank you! I have heard that some new model has an access panel at the back of the machine. Yes they should have included this part, sump cleaning in the manual as well, which they missed it. BTY, mine isn't still the perfect and it stops sometimes once, sometimes twice in a cycle. Still going.
@@kensuzuki9319 was also laughing Ken...you sometimes sound like mr myagi from karate kid......where you r actually from Ken?
I really like your perseverance...never give up on tackling problems...i work in the oil and gas industry on a gas platform in the North Sea...your attitude against solving problems that's a thing we really need in our industry here and encourage and embrace....
Bought the Bosch WGG244AINL wasmachine and the dryer Bosch WQG235DINL by the way.... Slick machines nice colors
I am Japanese as you notified from that actor. You gave me a confident that I can carry on this till I die. Sound very cold and nasty weather condition up there!
Un très grand merci de France, tout est détaillé et grâce à vous il fonctionne à nouveau
Hi Ken, I like your video! I have a container full warning, I checked out and cleaned the condensor and back panel, the sensor inside, than tested the pump outside the machine first it worked nicely so build it in again it worked nicely for 20 seconds, so thought problem solved, build it up again cutting myself on the very sharp edges unbelievable its the first thing you learn in metal working class to burr off all edges maybe to expensive for Bosch ?
Anyway in the end I found that the bearing of the pump is shot by ingress of water, so it worked intermittantly, new bearing or pump solved my problem,
Cheers from the Netherlands.
Sounds a lots of things you have done. I thing I don't know is that the pump bearing. I didn't realise it. Thank you for the information.
Many thanks for your video. Was a succes for me.greetings from the netherlands
Thank you for your comment. I will be doing number 3 video this autumn. Good thing those videos helped yours.
Ken! Where's #3? We need you!
You made me a big laugh. Thank you. It's in a middle of making, however no solution at moment.
you are very funny.. and quite professional
Oh, thank you. I have to be back on UA-cam!
I had a bit of a fix by blowing-very hard, it started to hurt- into the end of the drain hose. Consider yourself warned about potential personal damage to your ear and nose parts. Probably best to try a safer way to force air in. Because the clog in my case recurs in the exit channel of the pump. Cool thing is, you can see it when you pull the pump, and unclip the white cover over the impeller that lives in the sludge pool. The clog is weirdly delicate and gooey. I found my pump wasn’t fully clear when I swapped it for new last year (fat lot of good that did). It was maybe 30% clogged. We’re talking about the part on the pump housing that goes from horizontal to vertical. It’s maybe 6-7mm diameter. Anyway, forcing air in basically pushes that thick glob back into the tank so you can wipe it out with a facecloth by reaching in from the front. I mean really, after dealing with this over 7 years, in my case-check drain error clears for a few cycles after clean the sludge tub-it’s basically a lint buildup issue. Lint is obviously blowing by the filter and seals and collecting in the channels instead of collecting in the fluff filter. Some weird dense fibrous blobs form in places and seem to to migrate to unfortunate places. I also get persistent dust buildup in my home after running the dryer, so I’m confident it’s not trapping the lint inside. Fun fact, the official Bosch how to clean dryer video shows an added filter between the condenser and the front cover, which mine doesn’t have, and there’s no room for. So maybe they recognize the “limitation” of this design? And good luck to you all who have read this far. Applause to Ken for this excellent video and guidance.
I guess no matter how much of filter is prepared the tiniest lint can anyway go through it and cause issues to the following process areas. To be honest I wasn't sure that the pressure theory that increases temperature inside the drum is really the case. I made up the theory in the second video. However the clearing the air path seem always important. Thank you for your advice and experience to share.
Thank you for help ,becose of you i fixed my dryer
That's great news, Thank you for putting the comment!
I had the same problem and found out that it is the main motor overheating. I run the dryer with the side panel taken off, this would let lots of cool air in from the room. The machine didn't stop even once. My plan is to replace the motor, which costs around $150 or I will drill some more ventilation holes at the back of the dryer. For now, we are using the machine with the side panel off :)
That's interesting story nobody commented before. Over heat tracked by some heat sensor or some circuit to notice the higher ampere. Ummm. When my machine stops it's always at the beginning, and rest are ok. Maybe your theory is related to this. Thank you for your comment.
@@kensuzuki9319 the symptoms were the same, in the first 5 mins of program start the machine stops, when restarted sometimes completes the program, sometimes stops again. I first tried blowing some cool air with a fan while the side panel off, then I realized that I don't need the fan, keeping the panel off was enough.
That's really interesting. Thank you for the reply.
this mite b the next jop ken my man
@@mjbally5841 nice one!
Ken, this was so informative and useful. I just found this video after watching video 1 and 3. Thanks for explaining the air flow. we’re still having the same problems with ours (heat sensor warning on). But i’m wondering now if the issue is the thermostat or high temp sensor. Again. Thank you!
I think now the issue is not from the physical unit like sensors but from the operating unit. I am still thinking whether I pat £170 for replacing it even if it may not fix. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It is significant that your dryer stops without an error code. This suggests that it stops under “normal” conditions, or at least the condition that makes it stop is not defined as a fault in the dryer’s firmware. My very similar Bosch dryer always stops before the laundry is dry, but it runs for an hour or more before it stops. I have always suspected that the humidity sensor reads no conductivity many minutes before it should. Anyway, as a workaround or test, you could try the timed dry mode in the dial, and then add time by pressing the Time Dry button. My dryer runs for the preset time, independent of the dryness of the laundry. If yours also turns off during timed mode, wouldn’t that mean the limiter circuit is engaging?
Hi, Thanks for the comment and info. Sorry I had to say that my dryer stops by "Fluff filter /Heat exchanger" fault with the red 3 bar horizontal mark alarm. I have tried 20 minutes force run and even with that it stopped in a middle before finishing 20 minutes cycle, but now this is better. However it's worth try again. And I never done time set run more than 20 min auto run setting.
Thank you, I still have many things to do before giving up this dryer.
@@kensuzuki9319 Okay, I can see why you are clearing fluff and stuck-on lint from the back of the dryer and replacing the heat exchanger. My machine gets the more traditional "Check Drain" alarm, beeps, and stops. Then I clear the lint from the pump basin, wash the heat exchanger, and clean lint/fluff from the channel below the fluff filter, and in the channel behind the heat exchanger. I already replaced the pump once, but could have just removed and cleaned the original. My next step is to replace the fluff filter itself, because there is a lot getting past the filter. I would just replace the whole dryer if it were not so expensive- USD $1200-2000. I have never put so much work into a laundry dryer!
Thanks. That helped me to fix mine. ;)
@@antongorbachev7356 Thank you, that's very good news!
Thx you, this fixed it for us 😊
Thank you for watching upto No.2 video! Thank you for the comment!
Thank you so much for your informative videos! I have exactly the same dryer and problem, the dryer stops after some minutes and tells me to clean the filter although everything has been cleaned before. I removed and cleaned the sensor now, and there was a lot of dirt behind it. Although you say, with the humidity at the beginning of the process, the sensor should not have a problem, I think if there is too much dirt, the humidity can't reach the sensors well to connect them and this might tell the machine that everything is dry.
I'm curious whether my problem will be better now. Greetings from Germany!
Thank you Daniela, for your comment! Mine still stops once or twice in a cycle which I don't know why. I am making the 3rd video of this topic now, just I am enjoying and hope yours get better.
10 months still waiting for new heat exchanger. We need to see the finished repair.
I still couldn't fix the issue but the Tumble Dryer 3 video will be issued soon.
My dryer won’t heat up. Do you think cleaning the sump and heat exchanger will work?
I will have to try and have a go at fixing it tomorrow.
I think it's something different issue if it doesn't heat up. However not waste to clean the heat exchanger and the sump. I had an issue of not heating up on my dryer which the cause was because I didn't fit the heater unit back properly, that the earthing wasn't working properly. I refitted the heating unit at the back of the dryer then it solved the issue. I don't think you have removed the heating unit so it's hard to know what's wrong with yours.
Dear Ken. I opened up the back of my machine and had zero sticky stuff. Suspect you use fabric softener in your washing machine and this is the sticky stuff?
I don't think we used fabric softener but it w
Has been long time, I guess it is 8 years or so time usage if fluff were attached. Also if the new machines are better at blocking all fluffs on the filtered mesh then other area including heat exchanger should be kept as relatively clean. Thank you for your comment.
Hi..is it need the mechanic for open behind?or can do our self?
You can do yourself. It's just bolts fixings. Make sure you disconnect the main plug before opening the cover. And don't try to disconnect wiring.
@@kensuzuki9319 oke sir..thanks alot for the intraction 🥰
Hi Ken, I have cleaned everything, but the error is still there. Now I am going after [POWER INTEGRATIONS TNY266PN AC/DC changer] on a control board which could be faulty. I got this inspiration on a forum in German language..
That's sounds more complicated. I wonder it improves the condition. Please let me know if you do the change of it. I wonder how often yours stops in one cycle? Thank you for the comment.
@@kensuzuki9319 Hi Ken, the replacement of the TNY266PN and changing two nearby capacitors for bigger and more quality ones helped. It has been confirmed by about 10 complete drying cycles. But anyway thanks for your videos, thanks to you is my tumble dryer clean again.
You did pretty well done for that, it's new area to me. Thank you for sharing!
@@tomaspolacek5205Can you link to that german-language forum post, please? TYIA
Bravo
Thank you!
i can’t seem to get the sump cover off. you push it inwards? it doesn’t seem to unlatch
Mine had 2 clips at the front, which I had to squeeze inward to release the catch of the clip against the main housing. So it is to pull after releasing the clips catch. Is there any as such clipping feature on the cover? Or just plain surface? It was a bit awkward to remove it.
@@kensuzuki9319 inwards as in towards you? or inwards towards the machine? also, thanks for your help!
The clips' catch to pull inwards toward you.
@@kensuzuki9319 thank you!
My dryer keep stopping at the middle with water empty symbol 😢 how can I fix it ??
Did you watch my the first video of this tumble dryer, Bosch tumble dryer keeps stopping every 5 minutes? Maybe fluffs accumulation in the sump? But you said water empty symbol, which is for just to empty the water from the container, normally located at the upper part of the dryer.
I have the same problem… if I remove heat exchanger and dry up a few drops of water and put it back, it then runs the cycle 🤞🏽 and then same story for the next round
Thank you for your comment. I will carry on the experience.
Ken!
I think I may have found my issue!
There's a switching component on the PCB that gets very hot, very quickly so I suspect it has developed a fault. It's a TNY266GN and they cost less than £1.
I think the problem has been getting worse for some time and now the dryer only runs for a minute at most.
Ohhh, ok, I will have a look whether it can be ordered! Thank you for your comment!
@@kensuzuki9319 you will need someone who can do SMD soldering, possibly using reflow technique.
@@kensuzuki9319 update: it worked!
Did you throw the dryer away after?😂
@@enyonamami9736 No I am still using the same one. Still ok
Reassembled with only 1 screw left, said to myself Screw it! And throw it
Does that mean yours didn't fix?
@kensuzuki9319 it was a success. Before it was drying, but overheating. Now it like new. Thanks!
Misery loves company! I've had this issue and gotten so bad,I dry clothes on a rack. Bosch repair will cost a fortune as I learned with my Bosch microwave and oven and then rangetop. Guess what I learned from this expensive lesson and what brand name I will NEVER buy again.
@@946brandon I guess there must be some limit in the system which I am not fully understanding so that it is interesting. Thank you for the comment.