Hi Ron , thank you for your great show and dedication to providing valuable information. I normally listen from start to finish, but recently had your program on late in the evening and I peacefully drifted off to sleep. That is, Ron, until you rang the bell for the question of the week! I sat up in a start, confused about the alarm, until I realized what had just happened. I got a good laugh! Keep up the great work.
Regarding the pellet size, number and weights when going from lead to steel: In general, going down two US steps will work great. Going up in size (lower US number) will, all else equal, increase the weight of each pellet, and hence require less pellets for the same load. But, since the density of steel is lower than that of lead, you need more pellets for the same load. Going down 2 steps in US (i.e. up in size), let's say from US6 lead to US4 steel, but still shooting the same load (weight of steel/lead) will actually not change the number of pellets that much (but there will be less steel than lead, and the difference will increase with higher US - each pellet is smaller). Another thing to notice is that a steel pellets lose energy faster than lead pellets of the same size. Going down 2 US numbers helps alleviate this as well (heavier pellets). The energy in each steel pellet (US4) will be somewhat similar to that of a lead pellet (US6) at a distance around 25-30 yards, but since the total number of pellets are less, the total energy will be less. For longer ranges, lead will be advantageous. You can of course elaborate with weights and velocities to compensate for steel's shortcomings due to it's density - but you could give lead the same treatment and then we are back to square one. When shooting steel, it's also important to consider the choke, since different cokes affects steel and lead differently. Rule of thumb is that "modified" for steel is equivalent to "full" for lead (this also has to do with pressures). If you want to shoot lead free, but steel does not have the properties you want? Bismuth may be the answer. It sits in between steel and lead in density. In the example above, bismuth US5 would be the comparable size. In conclusion; go down two steps in US for steel or one step in US for bismuth, make sure your gun patterns the way you need it to with the chosen ammunition, and practice. That will set you up for success. Do consider how longer distances adversely affects steel and bismuth in relation to lead.
ron u are a great embassator to outdoor life and shooting. you can tell a great story and provide great info thst gets so many interested in being a hunter and outdoor enthusist. ❤❤
Loved that video of you boys shooting those old Winchester 70s. I've had my 721 Remington in 270win put out some real good sub MOA groups over the years. It's not too picky about ammo either.
And interesting topic. I’ve often wondered about cold temperatures and primers. I’ve never had a problem with any, but I also have never hundred and any temperatures less than -10°. However, I have had problems with ignition in large bore rifles with very large powder capacities. Namely, my 577 Tyrannosaur and even a couple of times in my 505 Gibbs. I really wish that someone would offer a hotter primer. I know that federal makes a 216 but they do not offer it for sale. This would probably solve my problem.
Can't sit in the snow 😂😂😂😂. Give it a couple minutes, the parts of your body touching the snow will honestly start to feel warmer than the rest exposed to the open air but as Ron said proper attire is essential. Blue jeans would be horrible. You need some "snow pants ". That's what we call them up here in Canada.
Can't sit in the snow for 20 seconds? Huh? Northern WI hunter, ice angler, and winter sports fan, and I can sit in the snow and ice all day long. I've never heard anyone say you can't sit in the snow before. 😂
Your take on the magnum primers is flawed!! The 240 wetherby is a 50-55 grain case and a magnum primer is not needed under 70-75 grains! A magnum primer would not be wise to use in this small of a case regardless of the temperature! He’s already using right up there at the top end of the large rifle class of primers for ignition! Going up to a Winchester large rifle primer would be as hot as you would ever need for a 240!! This is a common mistake a lot of people make then they use the wrong primer in the wrong case and wonder why they get terrible extream spreads!! This is really a problem with the 6.5 prc. Hornady calls it the 6.5 creedmoor magnum but it’s not a magnum nor does it need a magnum primer. Juat because a cartridge has magnum in the name does not mean it requires a magnum primer! You do not need a magnum primer under 70 grains case compacity above 0 degrees!! Below zero drop that 10 grains still 15 grains over the 240. As far as TTSX and LRX both same construction both some performance just the LRX has the longer boat tail longer ogive lil more slippery design to raise the BC other than that neither kills or performes any better than the other!!
What a special couple. Thank you for sharing yourselves with us!
Ron keep doing what you do well which is sharing your extensive knowledge about shooting, side note I love vids on different calibres
I tended toward magnum primers even in most large / long non magnum cases .
Hi Ron , thank you for your great show and dedication to providing valuable information. I normally listen from start to finish, but recently had your program on late in the evening and I peacefully drifted off to sleep. That is, Ron, until you rang the bell for the question of the week! I sat up in a start, confused about the alarm, until I realized what had just happened. I got a good laugh! Keep up the great work.
Regarding the pellet size, number and weights when going from lead to steel:
In general, going down two US steps will work great.
Going up in size (lower US number) will, all else equal, increase the weight of each pellet, and hence require less pellets for the same load. But, since the density of steel is lower than that of lead, you need more pellets for the same load. Going down 2 steps in US (i.e. up in size), let's say from US6 lead to US4 steel, but still shooting the same load (weight of steel/lead) will actually not change the number of pellets that much (but there will be less steel than lead, and the difference will increase with higher US - each pellet is smaller).
Another thing to notice is that a steel pellets lose energy faster than lead pellets of the same size. Going down 2 US numbers helps alleviate this as well (heavier pellets). The energy in each steel pellet (US4) will be somewhat similar to that of a lead pellet (US6) at a distance around 25-30 yards, but since the total number of pellets are less, the total energy will be less. For longer ranges, lead will be advantageous. You can of course elaborate with weights and velocities to compensate for steel's shortcomings due to it's density - but you could give lead the same treatment and then we are back to square one.
When shooting steel, it's also important to consider the choke, since different cokes affects steel and lead differently. Rule of thumb is that "modified" for steel is equivalent to "full" for lead (this also has to do with pressures).
If you want to shoot lead free, but steel does not have the properties you want? Bismuth may be the answer. It sits in between steel and lead in density. In the example above, bismuth US5 would be the comparable size.
In conclusion; go down two steps in US for steel or one step in US for bismuth, make sure your gun patterns the way you need it to with the chosen ammunition, and practice. That will set you up for success. Do consider how longer distances adversely affects steel and bismuth in relation to lead.
ron u are a great embassator to outdoor life and shooting.
you can tell a great story and provide great info thst gets so many interested in being a hunter and outdoor enthusist. ❤❤
I've recovered some of those plastic tips too from bullets. They got stuck between my teeth when eating venison!
OMG Hahahahahahaha
This is the video i needed thx Ron!
i use mag primers always and go slightly less than max charge. i live in the black hills of wyoming
Loved that video of you boys shooting those old Winchester 70s. I've had my 721 Remington in 270win put out some real good sub MOA groups over the years. It's not too picky about ammo either.
And interesting topic. I’ve often wondered about cold temperatures and primers. I’ve never had a problem with any, but I also have never hundred and any temperatures less than -10°. However, I have had problems with ignition in large bore rifles with very large powder capacities. Namely, my 577 Tyrannosaur and even a couple of times in my 505 Gibbs. I really wish that someone would offer a hotter primer. I know that federal makes a 216 but they do not offer it for sale. This would probably solve my problem.
Can't sit in the snow 😂😂😂😂.
Give it a couple minutes, the parts of your body touching the snow will honestly start to feel warmer than the rest exposed to the open air but as Ron said proper attire is essential. Blue jeans would be horrible. You need some "snow pants ". That's what we call them up here in Canada.
In Fl. you can only have 5 rounds in your rifle. A R wouldn"t have a big advantage.
Can't sit in the snow for 20 seconds? Huh? Northern WI hunter, ice angler, and winter sports fan, and I can sit in the snow and ice all day long. I've never heard anyone say you can't sit in the snow before. 😂
Why does nobody ever use or talk about the 35 Whelan? Thanks
They must be crazy .
If hunting in extreme cold ( -30 ) I just kept my ammo inside my coat in my breast pocket just to be sure.
Snow boarding pants
I was right..nobody knows anything about the 35 wheelan.
⛩
First
Your take on the magnum primers is flawed!! The 240 wetherby is a 50-55 grain case and a magnum primer is not needed under 70-75 grains! A magnum primer would not be wise to use in this small of a case regardless of the temperature! He’s already using right up there at the top end of the large rifle class of primers for ignition! Going up to a Winchester large rifle primer would be as hot as you would ever need for a 240!! This is a common mistake a lot of people make then they use the wrong primer in the wrong case and wonder why they get terrible extream spreads!! This is really a problem with the 6.5 prc. Hornady calls it the 6.5 creedmoor magnum but it’s not a magnum nor does it need a magnum primer.
Juat because a cartridge has magnum in the name does not mean it requires a magnum primer! You do not need a magnum primer under 70 grains case compacity above 0 degrees!! Below zero drop that 10 grains still 15 grains over the 240.
As far as TTSX and LRX both same construction both some performance just the LRX has the longer boat tail longer ogive lil more slippery design to raise the BC other than that neither kills or performes any better than the other!!
You might be right but the hotter benchrest small rifle primers improve the cases that I use. Why wouldn’t the magnums di the same in large?