✅ WATCH: How to Install Laminate Flooring, Hardwood Floors [Master Class] ua-cam.com/video/wtTyxH8wk3o/v-deo.html ✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Carpet Floors, Uneven Floor ua-cam.com/video/ZXmmQmSEb0o/v-deo.html ✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Curved Tile Floor ua-cam.com/video/zpXJuxqibP8/v-deo.html ✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood floors to Sliding Glass Doors and Tile ua-cam.com/video/zUTYpKiRT1Y/v-deo.html
I've been a professional flooring installation contractor for over 20 years and I see a few things wrong with this and one thing right I see you're using the incorrect molding that's an end cap molding and you put it in backwards the lip should be going the other way and overlapping the tile so that the wood can move without stopping expansion and contraction against the tile . You are using the correct adhesive for this application but the incorrect molding and putting the wrong molding in backwards . Doing it this way will cause problems with expansion and contraction because the flooring is attached to the molding and has nowhere to go where it meets that tile . This will cause problems later down the line such as buckling squeaking creaking and other issues . The correct molding to be put there should be a overlapping reducer and you only add adhesion to one side or the other so that the floor can move if it has to .
I was supposed to cut that last scene at the very end, the piece was sput down backward and I corrected it after the scene was recorded. But at least twice during the video, I showed the piece going in during dry fitting correctly for expansion and explained it at 1:35 and 3:30, and 4:56. If you look at those 3 points in the video, it is installed correctly.
A reducer is much better suited for this task and is also relatively inexpensive. If you decide you aren't satisfied with the results of the threshold you should consider removing the existing threshold with a heatgun and try a reducer. I liked your presentation enough that I hope you do another video if you go this route.
Bro if your a (contractor) and know some much why you checking out these diy videos. Start your own shot. Not your job to site here and criticize someone. F.o
Started with tool sales, but I’ve realized you’re a good carpenter/handyman also. I enjoy your videos. I’m fixing a Mickey Mouse house we bought that was “flipped”. NEVER AGAIN!
Thanks for this video Jeff. I don't know why people are so critical and scrutinizing your work. I see what you did and that is how you do it. My sister just had this issue . This was a big help bc the floor guy sent her on a goosechase to get a tile transition piece that is $500 uninstalled. So this is a much better option.
The video is okay. You just was much carry away. By the way, he did not use professional terms. If you type "transitional piece" on Google, you would find nothing. The correct term is transition strip.
VERY clear & helpful video….Ihave a concrete floor which is to be raised [30 mm] as a wet floor, so it needs a slight fall to plug… Can the wet screed be that thick? Can it create a fall as it’s self leveling?
Transition piece cool beans, we have nice Rimu hardwood under our carpets but tile on the kitchen , and laundry floors. Now I know how to solve the transition situation cheers.
This is a very useful video. A few years ago I had a similar situation at my house. I told the workman to make a transition between the floors; otherwise, he more than likely wouldn't have done it. 99% percent of time it's ok. Only occasionally would you fall on your face or twist your ankle. I am sooo picky.
My husband and I are going to tackle tiling the kitchen floor ourselves. It will transition to hardwood flooring in the living room. Thanks for the very helpful video!
Great job 👍 don’t pay attention to the naysayers! I’ve been doing construction for over 40 years made my share of mistakes, but you’re doing great!!! Keep a going... 😊
@jeffostroff: After the servicemen took out the carpet and replaced it with ceramic floor tiles...it left the DOORS way too high. You can literally see under the doors as people utilize the bathroom! :-( Q: What can we use to make the transition between (hallway) carpet to (bathroom) ceramic floor tiles? Additionally, what do we use to make the transition from (bathroom) ceramic floor tile to (inner bathroom, toilet room) to ceramic floor tiles (same type, same height floor tiles)? *Note: The rooms use to have padding & carpet in them, but we felt that the tile floors functioned better for our lifestyle VERSUS the "carpeting" in the bathrooms (our kids kept splashing water on the carpeted floors repetitively! Hence, the REASON for taking out the carpet and "replacing" it with the ceramic tiles for the flooring. Any advice that you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! ;-D
I've learned this: if you ever want an insane exhibition of "first world problems" find your way to the comments section of any UA-cam instructional video related to tile and flooring!
how did this happen to begin with, that is a large height difference between flooring types. I'm guessing some bad contractor added the expensive tile without mentioning the transition problems? They should have either chosen a tile that is thinner or redo all the flooring and add subfloor to raise the wood floor.
Thanks for posting. Making videos isn’t easy. Not sure if it was mentioned: I think, might be wrong, but it appears that the Transition from the Bathroom was laid down the wrong-way-round. Anyhoot. Would using a couple screws, reassessed and filled, really secure that transition?
LOL, really? Look at 6:35 how do you expect to install the transition piece under the door on top of the tile? The door is 6" away from the transition between the wood floor and the tile. The transition has to be placed where it was placed.
Firstly I’d like to say thank you for your easy to follow videos 🙏🏽 I’m after a bit of advice if possible. I will be laying new laminate full way through the down stairs of my house, however the itches and hallway are tiled and then the roo in between is concrete sub. Do these all need evening out before installation? Many thanks x
Kirsti according to the Tile Council North America (TCNA) specs, your floor must be level to within 1/8" across a 6' level. So lay the level down in several places an orientations, and if you see gaps more than 1/8" between the level and the floor, they can be filled in with self leveler. to flatten up the floor to TCNA specs.
Jeff, thank you so much for the video. I will be having the same problem but when the new tile, Wonderboard, and thin set meets preexisting carpet? Do the same rules apply or is there a different method? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Paige: Try our other video where we transition the wood floor which is up much higher than the carpet, maybe this type of solution can be used for your situation as well: ua-cam.com/video/ZXmmQmSEb0o/v-deo.html
Looks like at the end the transition when the other way arround... the longer piece should it gone to the wood part... how he place it before n after looked different to me I could b wrong
Yes, we rotated it after we shot this scene, and could not find the video of us rotating it. We were having numerous problems with that Canon camcorder at the time, and stopped using it.
Not sure this was done 5 years ago, but we usually leave enough space for 1/4" expansion of the wood flooring under the transition piece. But the transition piece is usually placed right up against the tile floor.
Really, you need to be able to screw the transition piece down somehow (though it seems not possible in this case). I would literally drill three holes in the vinyl/hardwood flooring and fill them with PU/Epoxy and then secure the transition piece to the floor You really needed a wider transition piece to cover that exposed gap. These companies are cheap in that they didn't make the transition piece an inch wider.
Jeff, nice video. The only thing I'd improve on next time is a more stable camera. I'm in a similar pickle with you concerning the raised tile. I'm installing 3/4" hardwood (formerly carpet) in a room that has a 15' opening to my foyer that has tile 1/2" to 1" higher than my hardwood. A previous owner added an extra sub floor & then installed the tile to make it much higher. But I also have to work around two 7' tall columns that previously sat on the tile & carpet. I'll have to create 3 separate threshold pieces to fit around my columns in the 15' opening. I like the metal spacer idea under one of your thresholds. Btw, you can delete some of the idiots' insulting or negative comments. It's easier doing that than wasting time replying because the person is either 12 yrs old, Russian bot or a numbskull.
@@jeffostroff What if instead of transitioning to tile you were transitioning to carpet ? I have the same low to high situation as you do in your first example but instead of going to tile I have carpet. Is there a special type of transition piece for that?
I have not made a video for that scenario yet. But if I were to do that I would get carpet tack strips and shoot them into the floor right up against the tile and then push the carpet down on top of the carpet tack strips in that should hold up just fine. That's usually how they do it around the perimeter of the carpet up against your walls anyway you can pull up a small portion of your carpet and take a look to see.
@@jeffostroff When you get xtra time if you can consider making one like that with concrete underneath. What im gonna try is drilling into concrete then using a wooden dowel and nailing into that. Wish me luck. Thx for the reply. 👍
How much higher is the tile than the wood floor? My tile floor it’s gonna be about 1” higher than wood floor in hall. There is no valley between them like yours.
Daniel S. You got that right travertine is a 1/2 inch thick and then you have to trowel out the mortar at a 1/2 inch thick iand it squashes down to a quarter inch so you're looking at 3/4 " off the sub floor by time you are done tiling
I have not heard that about cork and it certainly is waterproof which is one of the reasons why they recommend it, and it really cuts down on the sound so it is required pretty much by building codes to have some type of sound suppression under your floor if you live above another dwelling in a multi family dwelling unit
Right at the end of the video, you laid the transition strip in exactly backward of how you did the first one. It's not covering the edge of the wood and butting up to the tile. Why not show the, "Oops, I need to turn that around," segment?
I don't even want to be reminded of that day LOL! The faulty Canon camera kept zooming on it's own, the lapel microphone quit working so had to use the lame built in mic which sounds too echo, then a couple of scenes like the correction scene for some reason were not on the card when we pulled all the video off the camera, so scenes were missing. I quit using that camera after that.
I'm so glad this helped you out! Please give a thumbs up on the video if you have not already, and don't forget to subscribe and keep up with our other many how to videos.
jeffostroff Done and done. I've been on a mission to fix the disaster that was made by the laminate installers I hired. All of the finishes are falling off and the planks are slidding. They never added the metal channels and it's a disaster.😡😰. So I'm grateful for any advice I can take. 😉💜
When you say finishes are falling off, do you mean like the top layer is a film that is peeling off? Also, the planks should never slide, because they should be click locked into place if they installed it as a floating floor. Do you have any info on the planks, like manufacturer, where it was bought, etc?
jeffostroff all of the transition trims have fallen off. Specially the ones by the sliding doors. The laminates are fine, but they do slide, specially near the walls. They did a terrible job installing and I tried having them come back and fixing it but they ignored me. It was a "wholesaler". I don't know what they did, but I constantly have to push the planks into place with my feet. I also have to replace all the edging and transitions because they just glued it into the tile floor underneath.
jeffostroff The floor was installed 2 years ago, but the problems started shortly after. I can't even tell you their name because I become so frustrated that I threw away their info.
You can't use underlayment thicker than 1/8", the planks will flex too much, you'll get creaking, and you'll also void the warranty on the wood flooring.
An alternative is to transition to the height of tile with either tile or wood. The transition piece wood flooring manufactures sell looks like a hobo trailer home.
It's not easy to mil an even thickness 1/8" strip of wood, a lot easier to figure out what thickness you need and pick up the strip of metal when you're at HomeDepot or Lowes. You could also use wood strips if you have them available
@@karenboyd6293 You want a "sanded caulk" (designed to match grout on tile perfectly), such as this: www.mapei.com/us-en/product-detail.asp?IDProdotto=100500&IDTipo=162&IDLinea=102
you do not have your tile matched to your door trim liners. Which means you will see the tile when you close your door. You messed up the flooring. The transition needs to meet the door trim on the bottom and be flush.
This massive height difference should have been avoided from the start by using a thicker underlay under the wood flooring. Consequently the "transition piece will still present as a "toe stubber", and a safety hazzard for people who are prone to tripping. The only way to lessen the impact of this dire situation would be to have a thick dense rug over the wood, levelling next to the tiles.
whoever installed your wood floor did it wrong, because they are supposed to leave 1/2" gap all the way around o allow for expansion. Makes me wonder if they did it correctly along the perimeter of the walls as well. Yikes! So, what you have to do, which I have had to do a few times in the past, is you get and angle grinder and slice through the wood to make enough gap to fit a reducer piece or threshold piece, or maybe a T-mold, wherever you end up with. Just carefully plan how much space you'll need to allow the transition piece to fit, and for the wood to expand and contract underneath the transition piece. Please watch our 3 other videos about transitions so yo can see how the profiles have to work with your wood floor: ✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Carpet Floors, Uneven Floor ua-cam.com/video/ZXmmQmSEb0o/v-deo.html ✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Curved Tile Floor ua-cam.com/video/zpXJuxqibP8/v-deo.html ✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood floors to Sliding Glass Doors and Tile ua-cam.com/video/zUTYpKiRT1Y/v-deo.html
Also you are wrong, this was not a reducer piece, it was a Threshold piece, big difference, normally used in deep channels up against sliding glass doors. It was necessary to use this due to the much higher height of the travertine tile floor.
Not sure about your statement that I made the tile edge higher, that makes no sense, please clarify. The tile edge remained the same height it was at the start. The tile edge was higher because law requires you put 1/4" cork underlayment before installing tile on upper floor of multi family condo dwellings. Yes I installed the wood piece in backwards like I mentioned in the video and rotated it back around at the end. Also video does not show but I did put a bead of sanded siliconized caulk in the gap so it looks perfectly smooth now. Also did not show the caulk being added to the kitchen but it is there and looks perfect. Also please note that a reducer piece would not work here we had to use a threshold piece due to the height difference from the tile floor down to the bamboo floor.
It was 2 different doorways. They were each different , thats why the pieces looked like they were put in backwards. You skipped ahead and didnt realize he did 2 different thresholds ...
Where did you buy that or did you make it yourself. I'm at this point now that I have the same problem, not as bad, but I can't find anything. Thanks for the video.
It's really stupid how the stores sell you the wood and laminate flooring but no matching transitions. I usually end up ordering them online, or go to Floor and decor, or go to lumber liquidators who usually have lots of transitions in stock. Even Home Depot has some transitions.
I am having an issue trying to figure out how to finish off my floor in the basement. The issue is the exit door leads to the garage which is probably around 3 inches lower then basement so there is a drop. The door closes even with the current cement floor. When I add DMX 1 step and laminate flooring the floor will be about an inch higher. The door opens into the garage but closes over the basement floor which is higher. If I finish the floor even with edge of door I will have an ich of cement exposed when the door is open. Is there an easier way to do this other then somehow raising the door and cutting into the framing up above to allow this extra space?
Gamer Clownz We had a similar situations in the past and what we do is take the door off the hinges and you can either use a table saw or a circular saw with a guide and just cut off the amount that you need to remove off the bottom of the door so that when you put the door back on it will be clear of the floor.
Well the issue here its the door leading from basement to garage and has metal casing so cutting it off is not an option. I will look to replace the door when doing the floor but it was my understanding the garage door is supposed to be fire resistant and needs to be metal.
Gamer Clownz You should check your local building codes to see if it has to be a metal door or just simply a fire rated door that is wood that you might be able to cut the bottom off of. either way you do need to make sure that there is a gasket on the bottom of the door so that it seals the inside of your house from your garage and any danger of carbon monoxide. This would also be a good time to make sure that your garage is vented in some way to help release any carbon monoxide. Usually the venting is found there at the bottom of the roll up door or vents along the side of the garage wall that are covered with a grating. You might even want to invest in a carbon monoxide alarm.
I am pretty sure we are covered in terms of garage as the roll up doors are not perfectly sealed at all and there are gaps in a few places, on a windy day you can feel the wind coming in. Also, until very recently we did not keep cars in the garage anyhow. We do have carbon monoxide alarms in the house as well as fire alarms. I will look into the basement door as you mentioned, thanks for the idea.
I was just looking at some fire rated doors on HD website and it looks like they come with some type of metal plate on the bottom that has some height to it, it is possible that this would almost bring the door height to the floor level and cover the cement floor section that would otherwise be exposed. Maybe I would not need to make modifications.
Yes we were having severe camera issues that day and the camera kept zooming in for no apparent reason by itself and I kept fighting with that and wasn't paying attention for a brief 2nd and laid it down backwards we redid it and reshot the scene but later on discovered we did not have the scene on the card we don't know why but one thing we do know is we no longer use that garbage Canon camera
We did not. Both transition pieces went in the same way in the kitchen and the bathroom. The bamboo flooring sits under the overhand of the transition piece to allow for expansion.
@@jeffostroff It looks like on the first one at 1:48 the taper goes towards the wood floor over lapping it and leaving the exposed seam at the tile. Then at 7:48 it looks like the tapper and overlap goes over the tile with the exposed seam at the wood.
Hi Jeff, Vladimir here with NTD Television. Our team was very impressed by your videos and our editors would like to showcase them by uploading and crediting you on some of our social media pages and websites so that our fans can see it. We are one of the world's fastest growing media companies with over 100 million fans and 1 billion monthly video views across all of our social properties. Our motto is truth, hope, and humanity. Can I send you more information in my next message / email? Thank you! Warm regards
Fortunately it's not as visible when you you're standing in front of it looking down. You really only see it when the camera is right down there in front of it.
That’s a large transition there. Would not have been better with luxury vinyl flooring instead to decrease the lip? Or any thinner flooring material for that matter? We are having the same dilemma.
You need something sturdy here. Some pros want to custom cut a transition that's like 5 or 6" from front to back then they make a gentle ramp out of it, which I think would make things look worse.
jeffostroff thanks for the reply. Originally I wanted porcelain tiles in my kitchen but my contractor said the transition would be about an inch difference due to water proofing, grout, etc. he said even if he took the floor down to the original wood. He recommended luxury vinyl flooring instead to mitigate against the difference. Not sure I’m sold on LVF but I don’t want that awkward difference either. Suggestions?
The problem with the original orientation is the bottom of the threshold completely filled the expansion gap. This could cause wood planks to buckle or tile to crack. I think it might work if he removes some material in the gap to allow clearance for the wood flooring and glue it to the tile only. I am a little concerned how this would hold up over time but it would be cheap and much easy to repair than the tile or wood flooring. Personally I recommend chalking this up to experience and buying a reducer and redoing this job since it is about the same price and is much better at hiding the gaps and allowing for expansion.
Thanks for showing this but you need to show the finished product. Also, IMHO the transition needs to be under the baseboard. It looks like an afterthought a homeowner bought at a hardware store. Theres got to be a better solution. I personally had a mill make a transition, at exact height, that I will stain to match (I hope) and poly. It cost me $150 just for the 20 feet of maple.
Why not use a piece of solid marble for a threshold/transition? Looks better, especially for bathroom applications. Why wasn’t a cork underlayment used with the flooring if required by code?
The travertine tiles were installed over 1/4" cork that was rolled down. Don't know why you said no cork was used. The bamboo flooring also had an underlayment
Yuck! Are you kidding? A metal strip? Those are so 1970s, and so ugly. We removed the old metal strip that was bridging the gap between the tile floor and the old carpet that used to be in that bedroom before I installed that laminate flooring.
Ok I See what you are saying I thought you meant you were suggesting for me to put in a metal transition strip. No the metal spacer strip that I put in under the threshold piece is thin and does not take up the whole gap, so floor can still expand. It won't be able to expand as much as it was before I put in the metal strip but it will still expand. Keep in mind also wood floor can expand in the opposite direction on the other side of the Room as well.
@@jeffostroff hahaha noooooo 🤣🤣 Aaah that's great. I need to do a similar thing but was a bit concerned it would take up th expansion. I will now steal your idea and use it like it was mine 👍👍😉😉
You would implement the transition the same way, with a wood transition piece and glue it down over both both tiles. In one bathroom 2 years ago we helped our friend with, she wanted a row of river rocks to be the transition, which looked pretty cool in the end. You can also get some marble sill material and cut a strip, and just cement the strip down at an angle to match the 2 different floor heights, but be sure to leave no lippage between surfaces.
There basically 3 choices at Floor and Decor for example, 40 cents per square foot, then 50 then 70. I buy the 70 cent per sq foot version made from recycled tires, it is the best
I would have ended the tile at the line of the door stop molding. That way the transition piece ends would have been flush with the jamb without overhanging the doorway. Nice job though.
jeffostroff One of the ugly realities of the construction trades. This video was really helpful. I'm currently facing the same situation but we haven't laid the tile yet. There will be cork and a heating grid under the tile so a clean transition is essential. Thanks for your input.👍
Is that cork code everywhere? Shit I hate that stuff. It is what was used on my original tile and it was horrible shit. It doesn’t really bond to the plywood subfloor so the thin set and tile above basically floats and we had so many cracked tiles. And squeaks. I removed that underlayment, scratched a coat of thinset on the plywood, laid 1/4” hardie and drilled it into the thinset over the ply, thinset the tiles over the hardie, and it’s a rock solid base. If anything has less noise lol 😆 the old floor squeaked and creaked. Who knew fixing an issue was against code. Wow. Good info here though.
Yes, according to ADA Exposed edges must have trim on the entire length of the exposed edge and it must be fastened to the floor to prevent curling. Trim must meet specifications for changes in level, including requirements for beveled edges when the height exceeds ¼ inch. The maximum height is ½ inch.
In that case the transition worked out better that way, because the floor had already been terminated, and not enough room to set this down in the valley the way we waned it.
How would you do it if it were the opposite? Hard room to the bathroom tile is 1/4higher. Tile guy accidentally used 1/4 boards instead of 1/2 for bathroom floor. It ended up being free.
I have seen mismatched levels like that before, it is not that noticeable, the T-mold transition can still bridge he gap, it will be a slight angle, not very noticeable. If it is noticeable, then they make transition pieces to accommodate different floor heights.
I have the opposite problem... Ie the wood Floor is higher than the tile... And I can't find any transition piece to match that opposite angle. Any suggestions?
Scott, I always experiment with different molding pieces, you can't really tell until you set the piece down, if it will work. You can try a reducer pice, which they usually sell at Home Depot and Lowe's and Floor & Decor, or you can try a threshold piece like I have her ein this video, but the threshold pieces ar eonly stocked by lumber liquidators. All other stores have to order it.
@@alliewilcox8622 That really boils down to preference as A T-mold should be reasonably flat horizontal as it lays across the floor. If one floor is higher than the other then a T-mold will start to ramp up at an angle so you need to determine at what point is that angle become too unsightly for you and then you want to switch to something else like a reducer. Some people who are really skilled wood wood might make like a 6" threshold transition piece as you step across the threshold of the door and that would look reasonably flat if you had it 6" wide instead of 2" wide like a typical T-mold.
That gap was corrected after filming, as all the boards were lined up perfectly to the transition piece. You can install the transition either way, although we normally install them with the boards underneath to allow for expansion.
usually they require sound proofing underlayment, for the most part they should not be able to tell you what type of flooring you can use. In most areas building codes require soundproofing such as 1/4" thick layer of cork for tile floors, or rubber underlayment for wood floors. Both do a great job of cutting down most of the sound. If you get caught not putting in an underlayment, the city can force you to remove all the flooring and start over.
Yes unfortunately that is the way the tile was laid out to lineup to carpeting that used to be there. And then we decided to remove the carpeting and replace that carpeting with the bamboo flooring. Normally we prefer to tile right up to the door stop which is where you are supposed to tile to.
I hope this was your own home and not a paying customer. The kitchen transition looks to have a 1/4" height difference *after* installing the transition, that you apparently finished with a caulk bead ?!?!? No surprise that you didn't include a pic of the *awesome* finished job on that one. On the bathroom transition, you left the uneven endcuts of the wood flooring exposed, with an obvious gap on the left side. This isn't even good DIY work. A real tile installer would have used a marble threshold for the bathroom. In the kitchen, that last course of tile should have been replaced with a 5" wide threshold to avoid such an abrupt height change
Tell you what, YOU got put in an ugly 5 " wide threshold in the kitchen. That idea was shot down by a few people. Also the bathroom piece, we did not show all of the video, we lost the rest of the video we had. When you saw me put in that piece, I realized it was upside down, and spun it around. The wood floors must expanded under the transition piece. Also you can't put in a marble piece in the bathroom there, because again, the wood floor needs to expand under the transition piece. If you put in a marble piece like you said, how will you deal with the gap between the wood floor and the marble piece.
You are backwards, and those are not T's, didn't even watch the video where I show the profile and mention it is a threshold piece, it is not a T so it is not backwards. This was not a reducer piece, it was a Threshold piece, big difference, normally used in deep channels up against sliding glass doors. It was necessary to use this due to the much higher height of the travertine tile floor.
If you did that kind of work in my house I’d have you in court! Butcher is the word that comes to my mind. As a homeowner I can’t use my bathroom for 2 days while your crappy caulk drys? A real man would make his own threshold and properly install it WITHOUT caulk!
Your ignorance has caused you to be angry for no reason. You can still use your bathroom, this does not keep you from your bathroom you just avoid stepping on the threshold piece for 2 days.Are you really telling me you lack the talent to pull that off? And you have to huff and puff and talk big about suing me in court? Really? Listen to yourself. Also, as a homeowner, you completely missed the point of this video, which is a DIY video showing the average homeowner how to make do with what they have. This video is for the average guys who are not skilled like Norm from New Yankee Workshop with thousands of dollars in tools to mill a completely custom piece of wood by hand. But like many angry trolls like you whose only purpose in life is to be angry on other people's videos, all you did is show your ignorance and how the whole purpose of this video sailed right over your head. A real man doesn't troll other people's videos with nonsense statements that just send a beacon to the world of how foolish they are.
Trump Train Conductor there is always a pain in the toody threatening court instead of dealing with issues face to face. Problem solvers before court. 1 research your contractor/handy. 2. Call references and ask if they have pics. 3. Be clear you understand each step and final thought of your project. 4. If not happy go back to 3. 5. When communication breaks down, then seek counsel but a contract should have your expectations included. You should do your research and DD. Don’t just hire someone off of Facebook. I did. It was a simple project. It wasn’t worth going to court over. I fixed it myself. It was for some chickens. If you are getting something done on your house, research is not wasted time. It is an investment.
You are backwards Brandon. Also you are wrong, this was not a reducer piece, it was a Threshold piece, big difference, normally used in deep channels up against sliding glass doors. It was necessary to use this due to the much higher height of the travertine tile floor. The actual matching reducer piece that you were assuming this was, which Home Depot made for this bamboo, does not adequately solve the much higher height of the tiles, so this thicker threshold piece had to be used to match the 2 levels.
✅ WATCH: How to Install Laminate Flooring, Hardwood Floors [Master Class]
ua-cam.com/video/wtTyxH8wk3o/v-deo.html
✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Carpet Floors, Uneven Floor ua-cam.com/video/ZXmmQmSEb0o/v-deo.html
✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Curved Tile Floor ua-cam.com/video/zpXJuxqibP8/v-deo.html
✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood floors to Sliding Glass Doors and Tile ua-cam.com/video/zUTYpKiRT1Y/v-deo.html
I've been a professional flooring installation contractor for over 20 years and I see a few things wrong with this and one thing right I see you're using the incorrect molding that's an end cap molding and you put it in backwards the lip should be going the other way and overlapping the tile so that the wood can move without stopping expansion and contraction against the tile . You are using the correct adhesive for this application but the incorrect molding and putting the wrong molding in backwards . Doing it this way will cause problems with expansion and contraction because the flooring is attached to the molding and has nowhere to go where it meets that tile . This will cause problems later down the line such as buckling squeaking creaking and other issues . The correct molding to be put there should be a overlapping reducer and you only add adhesion to one side or the other so that the floor can move if it has to .
I was supposed to cut that last scene at the very end, the piece was sput down backward and I corrected it after the scene was recorded. But at least twice during the video, I showed the piece going in during dry fitting correctly for expansion and explained it at 1:35 and 3:30, and 4:56. If you look at those 3 points in the video, it is installed correctly.
A reducer is much better suited for this task and is also relatively inexpensive. If you decide you aren't satisfied with the results of the threshold you should consider removing the existing threshold with a heatgun and try a reducer. I liked your presentation enough that I hope you do another video if you go this route.
Bro if your a (contractor) and know some much why you checking out these diy videos. Start your own shot. Not your job to site here and criticize someone. F.o
Started with tool sales, but I’ve realized you’re a good carpenter/handyman also. I enjoy your videos. I’m fixing a Mickey Mouse house we bought that was “flipped”. NEVER AGAIN!
Thanks 👍 Soem flippers take pride in their work, others are first timers learning the ropes, while still others just don't know or care.
Thanks for this video Jeff. I don't know why people are so critical and scrutinizing your work. I see what you did and that is how you do it. My sister just had this issue . This was a big help bc the floor guy sent her on a goosechase to get a tile transition piece that is $500 uninstalled. So this is a much better option.
marie plotkin Awesome I'm glad to help out.
$500 ???!!!!????##**
I just did the exact same thing. Bought the proper transition piece for less tha 10.00. C'mon man. Be real.
The video is okay. You just was much carry away. By the way, he did not use professional terms. If you type "transitional piece" on Google, you would find nothing. The correct term is transition strip.
it's LAZY!
VERY clear & helpful video….Ihave a concrete floor which is to be raised [30 mm] as a wet floor, so it needs a slight fall to plug…
Can the wet screed be that thick?
Can it create a fall as it’s self leveling?
Transition piece cool beans, we have nice Rimu hardwood under our carpets but tile on the kitchen , and laundry floors. Now I know how to solve the transition situation cheers.
Glad to help out!
This is a very useful video.
A few years ago I had a similar situation at my house. I told the workman to make a transition between the floors; otherwise, he more than likely wouldn't have done it.
99% percent of time it's ok.
Only occasionally would you fall on your face or twist your ankle. I am sooo picky.
there is an art to these transitions for sure and no 2 are the same
Finally a bloody video I find easy to understand. My product came with some stupid picture instructions that didn't make sense 🤦♀️🤦♀️Thank you!
caveman hieroglyphics! Ikea especially is famous for that
@@jeffostroff 🤣😂🤣😂
My husband and I are going to tackle tiling the kitchen floor ourselves. It will transition to hardwood flooring in the living room. Thanks for the very helpful video!
Glad to help out and thanks for watching
Great job 👍 don’t pay attention to the naysayers! I’ve been doing construction for over 40 years made my share of mistakes, but you’re doing great!!! Keep a going... 😊
Thanks for the kind words!
THANK YOU! The only video that gets to the dang on point!
Glad you liked it!
Dude. Who the fuck is out there disliking these videos. This is gold. Thank you.
Thank you. That's saved me a lot of time.
You bet Travis glad to help
Awesome recommendation
You are right about PL
adhesive, and not Liquid nails.
Yes PL Just seems to cure harder and stronger
@jeffostroff: After the servicemen took out the carpet and replaced it with ceramic floor tiles...it left the DOORS way too high. You can literally see under the doors as people utilize the bathroom! :-(
Q: What can we use to make the transition between (hallway) carpet to (bathroom) ceramic floor tiles? Additionally, what do we use to make the transition from (bathroom) ceramic floor tile to (inner bathroom, toilet room) to ceramic floor tiles (same type, same height floor tiles)?
*Note: The rooms use to have padding & carpet in them, but we felt that the tile floors functioned better for our lifestyle VERSUS the "carpeting" in the bathrooms (our kids kept splashing water on the carpeted floors repetitively! Hence, the REASON for taking out the carpet and "replacing" it with the ceramic tiles for the flooring. Any advice that you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! ;-D
Not Jeff, but I would remove the door and add the amount needed to fill the gap to the bottom of the door.
I've learned this: if you ever want an insane exhibition of "first world problems" find your way to the comments section of any UA-cam instructional video related to tile and flooring!
that is so true
how did this happen to begin with, that is a large height difference between flooring types. I'm guessing some bad contractor added the expensive tile without mentioning the transition problems? They should have either chosen a tile that is thinner or redo all the flooring and add subfloor to raise the wood floor.
Thanks for posting. Making videos isn’t easy. Not sure if it was mentioned: I think, might be wrong, but it appears that the Transition from the Bathroom was laid down the wrong-way-round.
Anyhoot. Would using a couple screws, reassessed and filled, really secure that transition?
Some people will use screws to secure down over wood subfloors. But in this case over tile it must be glued down.
The best cowboy job even.... what is that gap left in the end?
That was the end plan that we tapped into place afterwards to remove the gap.
When door is closed tile will be showing on wood flooring side. Transition piece should be located under door jam to rectify this.
LOL, really? Look at 6:35 how do you expect to install the transition piece under the door on top of the tile? The door is 6" away from the transition between the wood floor and the tile. The transition has to be placed where it was placed.
Thanks for your help. Good video.
You're welcome!
Great video... One small challenge.. No one sells those molding profiles. Do you have a source?
I ordered online once from Home Depot, and lumber liquidators online also has good threshold pieces.
Firstly I’d like to say thank you for your easy to follow videos 🙏🏽 I’m after a bit of advice if possible. I will be laying new laminate full way through the down stairs of my house, however the itches and hallway are tiled and then the roo in between is concrete sub. Do these all need evening out before installation? Many thanks x
Kirsti according to the Tile Council North America (TCNA) specs, your floor must be level to within 1/8" across a 6' level. So lay the level down in several places an orientations, and if you see gaps more than 1/8" between the level and the floor, they can be filled in with self leveler. to flatten up the floor to TCNA specs.
jeffostroff thank you 😊
If the rooms are different heights from each other but each individual room is level you can use a cinch reducer where the rooms meet
Jeff, thank you so much for the video. I will be having the same problem but when the new tile, Wonderboard, and thin set meets preexisting carpet? Do the same rules apply or is there a different method? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Paige: Try our other video where we transition the wood floor which is up much higher than the carpet, maybe this type of solution can be used for your situation as well: ua-cam.com/video/ZXmmQmSEb0o/v-deo.html
@@jeffostroff Thanks! I did not see it. I will go look.
Looks like at the end the transition when the other way arround... the longer piece should it gone to the wood part... how he place it before n after looked different to me I could b wrong
Yes, we rotated it after we shot this scene, and could not find the video of us rotating it. We were having numerous problems with that Canon camcorder at the time, and stopped using it.
My tile is NOT straight and the transition leaves a space. Will that grout caulk be enough?
It should fill the gap, but might not look natural. Hoe big is the gap compared to the transition piece
@@jeffostroff 1/4 inch gap. Maybe caulk the color of grout?
@@jamalcompton379 Mapai sells all kinds of coloured caulking that match their grout colours.
@@rickroll9086 Thank you!!!
Thought the edge of the reducer needs to be on top of the higher end of the floor? otherwise, the edge will be broken eventually?
If your edge sits on top of the tile floor and is glued down, it will be fine.
Very informative video! Also, what's the space measurement in between the tile and the laminate floor for the that transition to fit?
Not sure this was done 5 years ago, but we usually leave enough space for 1/4" expansion of the wood flooring under the transition piece. But the transition piece is usually placed right up against the tile floor.
jeffostroff ok, thanks for again for the video! Very helpful!
One more example when tilers have no idea where the tiles should end or meet other floor coverings. (UNDER the DOOR)
It’s kinda under a door, kinda. 🥺
I was thinking the same thing...
Sometimes you have to transition in an open concept with an existing floor but need to file the kitchen area. That's when this comes in, you.
Great vid, thanks...
Glad you enjoyed it
Really, you need to be able to screw the transition piece down somehow (though it seems not possible in this case). I would literally drill three holes in the vinyl/hardwood flooring and fill them with PU/Epoxy and then secure the transition piece to the floor You really needed a wider transition piece to cover that exposed gap. These companies are cheap in that they didn't make the transition piece an inch wider.
Skyline: Exactly. The home improvement centers seem to have a fixation on a 1 3/4" maximum width.
Be sure to watch our Master Class video: DIY How to Install Laminate Flooring Hardwood Floors: ua-cam.com/video/wtTyxH8wk3o/v-deo.html
Thank you. 👍
You are welcome!
Jeff, nice video. The only thing I'd improve on next time is a more stable camera. I'm in a similar pickle with you concerning the raised tile. I'm installing 3/4" hardwood (formerly carpet) in a room that has a 15' opening to my foyer that has tile 1/2" to 1" higher than my hardwood. A previous owner added an extra sub floor & then installed the tile to make it much higher. But I also have to work around two 7' tall columns that previously sat on the tile & carpet. I'll have to create 3 separate threshold pieces to fit around my columns in the 15' opening. I like the metal spacer idea under one of your thresholds. Btw, you can delete some of the idiots' insulting or negative comments. It's easier doing that than wasting time replying because the person is either 12 yrs old, Russian bot or a numbskull.
exactly what i needed to see. thanks
Awesome, glad we were bale to help you!
@@jeffostroff What if instead of transitioning to tile you were transitioning to carpet ? I have the same low to high situation as you do in your first example but instead of going to tile I have carpet. Is there a special type of transition piece for that?
Hey Jeff. Do you have any advice on how to transition from tile to rug. ?
I have not made a video for that scenario yet. But if I were to do that I would get carpet tack strips and shoot them into the floor right up against the tile and then push the carpet down on top of the carpet tack strips in that should hold up just fine. That's usually how they do it around the perimeter of the carpet up against your walls anyway you can pull up a small portion of your carpet and take a look to see.
@@jeffostroff When you get xtra time if you can consider making one like that with concrete underneath. What im gonna try is drilling into concrete then using a wooden dowel and nailing into that. Wish me luck. Thx for the reply. 👍
How much higher is the tile than the wood floor? My tile floor it’s gonna be about 1” higher than wood floor in hall. There is no valley between them like yours.
How
Would you take this off if it dried and you put it the wrong way?
You just have to pry it up. You might kill the piece and have to buy another, but you might get lucky
Where to buy transition piece?
Wow that's a thick tile.
Daniel S. You got that right travertine is a 1/2 inch thick and then you have to trowel out the mortar at a 1/2 inch thick iand it squashes down to a quarter inch so you're looking at 3/4 " off the sub floor by time you are done tiling
Thicker the stronger, just too thin laminate IMO
I heard cork compresses over time and within a couple years it’s near paper thin?
I have not heard that about cork and it certainly is waterproof which is one of the reasons why they recommend it, and it really cuts down on the sound so it is required pretty much by building codes to have some type of sound suppression under your floor if you live above another dwelling in a multi family dwelling unit
Right at the end of the video, you laid the transition strip in exactly backward of how you did the first one. It's not covering the edge of the wood and butting up to the tile. Why not show the, "Oops, I need to turn that around," segment?
I don't even want to be reminded of that day LOL! The faulty Canon camera kept zooming on it's own, the lapel microphone quit working so had to use the lame built in mic which sounds too echo, then a couple of scenes like the correction scene for some reason were not on the card when we pulled all the video off the camera, so scenes were missing. I quit using that camera after that.
@@jeffostroff So at the end of the video that transition is going in backwards, right?
Thank you.
Thanks so much. This vid was tremendous help.👍
I'm so glad this helped you out! Please give a thumbs up on the video if you have not already, and don't forget to subscribe and keep up with our other many how to videos.
jeffostroff Done and done. I've been on a mission to fix the disaster that was made by the laminate installers I hired. All of the finishes are falling off and the planks are slidding. They never added the metal channels and it's a disaster.😡😰. So I'm grateful for any advice I can take. 😉💜
When you say finishes are falling off, do you mean like the top layer is a film that is peeling off? Also, the planks should never slide, because they should be click locked into place if they installed it as a floating floor. Do you have any info on the planks, like manufacturer, where it was bought, etc?
jeffostroff all of the transition trims have fallen off. Specially the ones by the sliding doors. The laminates are fine, but they do slide, specially near the walls. They did a terrible job installing and I tried having them come back and fixing it but they ignored me. It was a "wholesaler". I don't know what they did, but I constantly have to push the planks into place with my feet. I also have to replace all the edging and transitions because they just glued it into the tile floor underneath.
jeffostroff The floor was installed 2 years ago, but the problems started shortly after. I can't even tell you their name because I become so frustrated that I threw away their info.
Please assist what is the name of the glue you using
Why not use a thicker underlay for the vinyl plank side?
You can't use underlayment thicker than 1/8", the planks will flex too much, you'll get creaking, and you'll also void the warranty on the wood flooring.
@@jeffostroff Thanks
An alternative is to transition to the height of tile with either tile or wood. The transition piece wood flooring manufactures sell looks like a hobo trailer home.
Thank you. Good information.
Linda, thanks, glad you liked our video.
why use a metal strip ? any bit of wood of the correct thickness would do would it not?, just wondering
It's not easy to mil an even thickness 1/8" strip of wood, a lot easier to figure out what thickness you need and pick up the strip of metal when you're at HomeDepot or Lowes. You could also use wood strips if you have them available
What do you recommend for grouting between the transition piece.
Any of the mapei brand grouts Will do the job for you you can use sanded or unmanned grout.
@@jeffostroff I thought you said you were using caulk? That was what I hope to learn!
@@karenboyd6293
You want a "sanded caulk" (designed to match grout on tile perfectly), such as this:
www.mapei.com/us-en/product-detail.asp?IDProdotto=100500&IDTipo=162&IDLinea=102
Can we have a Wayne & Garth 'Extreme Close-up' sound clip now and then?
Wagner's World excellent!
Would this same method be used if the tile was to be lower than the laminate flooring?
Slick, I might use this method, or try to go with a T-Mold if the floor heights are no too far off from another.
you do not have your tile matched to your door trim liners. Which means you will see the tile when you close your door. You messed up the flooring. The transition needs to meet the door trim on the bottom and be flush.
Shawn Hubscher yeah you are right, that doesn't look professional
I made the same mistake once. When I first started flooring, luckily it was in my own house. Now, it drives me bat shit crazy every time I look at it.
Looking at the skirting board moulding I assume there is no door going there.
What’s the name of your glue?
I use the PL adhesive 3x, and sometimes 8x
This massive height difference should have been avoided from the start by using a thicker underlay under the wood flooring. Consequently the "transition piece will still present as a "toe stubber", and a safety hazzard for people who are prone to tripping. The only way to lessen the impact of this dire situation would be to have a thick dense rug over the wood, levelling next to the tiles.
My tile is only 0.6” higher than my wood floor, but there is no hole gap as the wood meets up to the tile and is just not level. What would I use?
whoever installed your wood floor did it wrong, because they are supposed to leave 1/2" gap all the way around o allow for expansion. Makes me wonder if they did it correctly along the perimeter of the walls as well. Yikes! So, what you have to do, which I have had to do a few times in the past, is you get and angle grinder and slice through the wood to make enough gap to fit a reducer piece or threshold piece, or maybe a T-mold, wherever you end up with. Just carefully plan how much space you'll need to allow the transition piece to fit, and for the wood to expand and contract underneath the transition piece. Please watch our 3 other videos about transitions so yo can see how the profiles have to work with your wood floor:
✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Carpet Floors, Uneven Floor ua-cam.com/video/ZXmmQmSEb0o/v-deo.html
✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood Floors to Curved Tile Floor ua-cam.com/video/zpXJuxqibP8/v-deo.html
✅ WATCH: How to Transition Wood floors to Sliding Glass Doors and Tile ua-cam.com/video/zUTYpKiRT1Y/v-deo.html
I think at the end of the video he put the transition backwards...
Also you are wrong, this was not a reducer piece, it was a Threshold piece, big difference, normally used in deep channels up against sliding glass doors. It was necessary to use this due to the much higher height of the travertine tile floor.
Not sure about your statement that I made the tile edge higher, that makes no sense, please clarify. The tile edge remained the same height it was at the start. The tile edge was higher because law requires you put 1/4" cork underlayment before installing tile on upper floor of multi family condo dwellings. Yes I installed the wood piece in backwards like I mentioned in the video and rotated it back around at the end. Also video does not show but I did put a bead of sanded siliconized caulk in the gap so it looks perfectly smooth now. Also did not show the caulk being added to the kitchen but it is there and looks perfect. Also please note that a reducer piece would not work here we had to use a threshold piece due to the height difference from the tile floor down to the bamboo floor.
You put them in differently for the same problem.
Second installed piece is wrong.
It was 2 different doorways. They were each different , thats why the pieces looked like they were put in backwards. You skipped ahead and didnt realize he did 2 different thresholds ...
how wide was the gap between the wood floor and the tile floor?
Close to 1"
Where did you buy that or did you make it yourself. I'm at this point now that I have the same problem, not as bad, but I can't find anything. Thanks for the video.
It's really stupid how the stores sell you the wood and laminate flooring but no matching transitions. I usually end up ordering them online, or go to Floor and decor, or go to lumber liquidators who usually have lots of transitions in stock. Even Home Depot has some transitions.
I am having an issue trying to figure out how to finish off my floor in the basement. The issue is the exit door leads to the garage which is probably around 3 inches lower then basement so there is a drop. The door closes even with the current cement floor. When I add DMX 1 step and laminate flooring the floor will be about an inch higher. The door opens into the garage but closes over the basement floor which is higher. If I finish the floor even with edge of door I will have an ich of cement exposed when the door is open. Is there an easier way to do this other then somehow raising the door and cutting into the framing up above to allow this extra space?
Gamer Clownz We had a similar situations in the past and what we do is take the door off the hinges and you can either use a table saw or a circular saw with a guide and just cut off the amount that you need to remove off the bottom of the door so that when you put the door back on it will be clear of the floor.
Well the issue here its the door leading from basement to garage and has metal casing so cutting it off is not an option. I will look to replace the door when doing the floor but it was my understanding the garage door is supposed to be fire resistant and needs to be metal.
Gamer Clownz You should check your local building codes to see if it has to be a metal door or just simply a fire rated door that is wood that you might be able to cut the bottom off of. either way you do need to make sure that there is a gasket on the bottom of the door so that it seals the inside of your house from your garage and any danger of carbon monoxide. This would also be a good time to make sure that your garage is vented in some way to help release any carbon monoxide. Usually the venting is found there at the bottom of the roll up door or vents along the side of the garage wall that are covered with a grating. You might even want to invest in a carbon monoxide alarm.
I am pretty sure we are covered in terms of garage as the roll up doors are not perfectly sealed at all and there are gaps in a few places, on a windy day you can feel the wind coming in. Also, until very recently we did not keep cars in the garage anyhow. We do have carbon monoxide alarms in the house as well as fire alarms. I will look into the basement door as you mentioned, thanks for the idea.
I was just looking at some fire rated doors on HD website and it looks like they come with some type of metal plate on the bottom that has some height to it, it is possible that this would almost bring the door height to the floor level and cover the cement floor section that would otherwise be exposed. Maybe I would not need to make modifications.
isn't that last transition put in backwards?
Yes we were having severe camera issues that day and the camera kept zooming in for no apparent reason by itself and I kept fighting with that and wasn't paying attention for a brief 2nd and laid it down backwards we redid it and reshot the scene but later on discovered we did not have the scene on the card we don't know why but one thing we do know is we no longer use that garbage Canon camera
Instead of that metal stick to fill the gap can you just use a similar size piece a wood
You can use either, I have used both before.When you only need 1/4 to 1/2" I use metal
why did you do the transition one way and the flip it around and do it the other way in the bathroom?
We did not. Both transition pieces went in the same way in the kitchen and the bathroom. The bamboo flooring sits under the overhand of the transition piece to allow for expansion.
@@jeffostroff It looks like on the first one at 1:48 the taper goes towards the wood floor over lapping it and leaving the exposed seam at the tile. Then at 7:48 it looks like the tapper and overlap goes over the tile with the exposed seam at the wood.
Hi Jeff,
Vladimir here with NTD Television. Our team was very impressed by your videos and our editors would like to showcase them by uploading and crediting you on some of our social media pages and websites so that our fans can see it. We are one of the world's fastest growing media companies with over 100 million fans and 1 billion monthly video views across all of our social properties. Our motto is truth, hope, and humanity. Can I send you more information in my next message / email?
Thank you!
Warm regards
Weird to just put this in a comment on a video
Nice uneven tile right in the middle of the transition in the washroom LOL
Fortunately it's not as visible when you you're standing in front of it looking down. You really only see it when the camera is right down there in front of it.
That’s a large transition there. Would not have been better with luxury vinyl flooring instead to decrease the lip? Or any thinner flooring material for that matter? We are having the same dilemma.
You need something sturdy here. Some pros want to custom cut a transition that's like 5 or 6" from front to back then they make a gentle ramp out of it, which I think would make things look worse.
jeffostroff thanks for the reply. Originally I wanted porcelain tiles in my kitchen but my contractor said the transition would be about an inch difference due to water proofing, grout, etc. he said even if he took the floor down to the original wood. He recommended luxury vinyl flooring instead to mitigate against the difference. Not sure I’m sold on LVF but I don’t want that awkward difference either. Suggestions?
The transition was placed the wrong way at the end of the video. Note the gap between the wood flooring and the transition on the left.
Yes, You're right. I see that he places the sloped end at the wood flooring when it should be the covering end over the wood flooring.
The problem with the original orientation is the bottom of the threshold completely filled the expansion gap. This could cause wood planks to buckle or tile to crack. I think it might work if he removes some material in the gap to allow clearance for the wood flooring and glue it to the tile only. I am a little concerned how this would hold up over time but it would be cheap and much easy to repair than the tile or wood flooring. Personally I recommend chalking this up to experience and buying a reducer and redoing this job since it is about the same price and is much better at hiding the gaps and allowing for expansion.
Thanks for showing this but you need to show the finished product. Also, IMHO the transition needs to be under the baseboard. It looks like an afterthought a homeowner bought at a hardware store. Theres got to be a better solution. I personally had a mill make a transition, at exact height, that I will stain to match (I hope) and poly. It cost me $150 just for the 20 feet of maple.
spudth why would it need to be under the baseboard? that means you would have to notch the baseboard which is pretty dumb
Why not use a piece of solid marble for a threshold/transition? Looks better, especially for bathroom applications.
Why wasn’t a cork underlayment used with the flooring if required by code?
The travertine tiles were installed over 1/4" cork that was rolled down. Don't know why you said no cork was used. The bamboo flooring also had an underlayment
Haven't you just taken up the expansion gap there though by adding the metal strip?
Yuck! Are you kidding? A metal strip? Those are so 1970s, and so ugly. We removed the old metal strip that was bridging the gap between the tile floor and the old carpet that used to be in that bedroom before I installed that laminate flooring.
4:39! You put in a "metal strip"
Ok I See what you are saying I thought you meant you were suggesting for me to put in a metal transition strip. No the metal spacer strip that I put in under the threshold piece is thin and does not take up the whole gap, so floor can still expand. It won't be able to expand as much as it was before I put in the metal strip but it will still expand. Keep in mind also wood floor can expand in the opposite direction on the other side of the Room as well.
@@jeffostroff hahaha noooooo 🤣🤣 Aaah that's great. I need to do a similar thing but was a bit concerned it would take up th expansion. I will now steal your idea and use it like it was mine 👍👍😉😉
how do you meet 2 uneven tiled surfaces like if your hallway tile is taller then your bathroom tile
You would implement the transition the same way, with a wood transition piece and glue it down over both both tiles. In one bathroom 2 years ago we helped our friend with, she wanted a row of river rocks to be the transition, which looked pretty cool in the end. You can also get some marble sill material and cut a strip, and just cement the strip down at an angle to match the 2 different floor heights, but be sure to leave no lippage between surfaces.
Is it possible to do this on a curve?
Yes we have a video that we uploaded called "How to Transition Wood Floors to Curved Tile Floor" ua-cam.com/video/zpXJuxqibP8/v-deo.html
Any recommendations on inexpensive sound proof underlayment?
There basically 3 choices at Floor and Decor for example, 40 cents per square foot, then 50 then 70. I buy the 70 cent per sq foot version made from recycled tires, it is the best
I would have ended the tile at the line of the door stop molding. That way the transition piece ends would have been flush with the jamb without overhanging the doorway.
Nice job though.
oltedders Yes I sometimes we are at the mercy of where the previous tile job ended that determines where you can put your would transition piece.
jeffostroff
One of the ugly realities of the construction trades. This video was really helpful. I'm currently facing the same situation but we haven't laid the tile yet. There will be cork and a heating grid under the tile so a clean transition is essential. Thanks for your input.👍
IDK, what are the other transitions doing? I think I would prefer for the transitions to be consistent over a slightly cleaner look.
Please eliminate background music and noises from instruction videos.
Is that cork code everywhere? Shit I hate that stuff. It is what was used on my original tile and it was horrible shit. It doesn’t really bond to the plywood subfloor so the thin set and tile above basically floats and we had so many cracked tiles. And squeaks.
I removed that underlayment, scratched a coat of thinset on the plywood, laid 1/4” hardie and drilled it into the thinset over the ply, thinset the tiles over the hardie, and it’s a rock solid base. If anything has less noise lol 😆 the old floor squeaked and creaked.
Who knew fixing an issue was against code. Wow. Good info here though.
instead of the metal strip why not just use a wood strip ??
You could use either one.
Is this wheelchair friendly?
Yes, according to ADA Exposed edges must have trim on the entire length of the exposed edge and it must be fastened to the floor to prevent curling. Trim must meet specifications for changes in level, including requirements for beveled edges when the height exceeds ¼ inch. The maximum height is ½ inch.
jeffostroff thank you
Yall know he put the last one in backwards right?
In that case the transition worked out better that way, because the floor had already been terminated, and not enough room to set this down in the valley the way we waned it.
How would you do it if it were the opposite? Hard room to the bathroom tile is 1/4higher. Tile guy accidentally used 1/4 boards instead of 1/2 for bathroom floor. It ended up being free.
I have seen mismatched levels like that before, it is not that noticeable, the T-mold transition can still bridge he gap, it will be a slight angle, not very noticeable. If it is noticeable, then they make transition pieces to accommodate different floor heights.
I have the opposite problem... Ie the wood Floor is higher than the tile... And I can't find any transition piece to match that opposite angle. Any suggestions?
Hoe much difference in height? Can you slant it down slightly from the wood floor to the tile floor?
What if the floor is a 1/4 inch on one side of the floor and about an inch on the other side. How would you fix that.
Scott, I always experiment with different molding pieces, you can't really tell until you set the piece down, if it will work. You can try a reducer pice, which they usually sell at Home Depot and Lowe's and Floor & Decor, or you can try a threshold piece like I have her ein this video, but the threshold pieces ar eonly stocked by lumber liquidators. All other stores have to order it.
@@jeffostroff thank you
How much of a difference would it have to be for you to have to use a reducer instead of a T mold
I am not sure what you are asking because I did use a reducer piece instead of a T-mold piece.
How much of a difference in height between floors does there need to be to have to use a reducer
@@alliewilcox8622 That really boils down to preference as A T-mold should be reasonably flat horizontal as it lays across the floor. If one floor is higher than the other then a T-mold will start to ramp up at an angle so you need to determine at what point is that angle become too unsightly for you and then you want to switch to something else like a reducer. Some people who are really skilled wood wood might make like a 6" threshold transition piece as you step across the threshold of the door and that would look reasonably flat if you had it 6" wide instead of 2" wide like a typical T-mold.
Hmmm the difference in height is probably like a little more than a 1/16 of an inch
You can easily use a T-mold in this situation then.
Transition is backwards and awful gap between board and reducer.
That gap was corrected after filming, as all the boards were lined up perfectly to the transition piece. You can install the transition either way, although we normally install them with the boards underneath to allow for expansion.
Did you say cork, or “quark”??
LOL, Cork, I don't recall this being an episode of Star trek Deep Space 9!
Also keep in mind if the condo, townhome, or apartment is subject to HOA many HOA rules include what type of flooring is required for upper levels.
usually they require sound proofing underlayment, for the most part they should not be able to tell you what type of flooring you can use. In most areas building codes require soundproofing such as 1/4" thick layer of cork for tile floors, or rubber underlayment for wood floors. Both do a great job of cutting down most of the sound. If you get caught not putting in an underlayment, the city can force you to remove all the flooring and start over.
jeffostroff not always true. They can certainly dictate the type of flooring you can use when written into the HOA CC&R’s.
OF COURSE, I SHOULDVE KNOW, PL, GOOD OL PL
Code is different in each area depending on city, town, county etc.......
Brennen: Yeah, I'm so glad the code keepers sacrifice their time protecting us from ourselves even though most of them do not understand the codes.
dat lippage
The transition isn’t code. 1foot over an inch. Transition should have been 6in wide.
Mommaz Boyz he was saying about the underlayment that was used under the tile floor
Sorry, but when you shut the door you are going to see a couple inches of tile outside the door.
Yes unfortunately that is the way the tile was laid out to lineup to carpeting that used to be there. And then we decided to remove the carpeting and replace that carpeting with the bamboo flooring. Normally we prefer to tile right up to the door stop which is where you are supposed to tile to.
Duuuuhhhhhhhhh!
Moving camera makes me dizzy!
🤮
I hope this was your own home and not a paying customer. The kitchen transition looks to have a 1/4" height difference *after* installing the transition, that you apparently finished with a caulk bead ?!?!? No surprise that you didn't include a pic of the *awesome* finished job on that one. On the bathroom transition, you left the uneven endcuts of the wood flooring exposed, with an obvious gap on the left side. This isn't even good DIY work. A real tile installer would have used a marble threshold for the bathroom. In the kitchen, that last course of tile should have been replaced with a 5" wide threshold to avoid such an abrupt height change
Tell you what, YOU got put in an ugly 5 " wide threshold in the kitchen. That idea was shot down by a few people. Also the bathroom piece, we did not show all of the video, we lost the rest of the video we had. When you saw me put in that piece, I realized it was upside down, and spun it around. The wood floors must expanded under the transition piece. Also you can't put in a marble piece in the bathroom there, because again, the wood floor needs to expand under the transition piece. If you put in a marble piece like you said, how will you deal with the gap between the wood floor and the marble piece.
Bumb bumb
You put both of those T 60's in backwards
You are backwards, and those are not T's, didn't even watch the video where I show the profile and mention it is a threshold piece, it is not a T so it is not backwards. This was not a reducer piece, it was a Threshold piece, big difference, normally used in deep channels up against sliding glass doors. It was necessary to use this due to the much higher height of the travertine tile floor.
If you did that kind of work in my house I’d have you in court! Butcher is the word that comes to my mind. As a homeowner I can’t use my bathroom for 2 days while your crappy caulk drys? A real man would make his own threshold and properly install it WITHOUT caulk!
Your ignorance has caused you to be angry for no reason. You can still use your bathroom, this does not keep you from your bathroom you just avoid stepping on the threshold piece for 2 days.Are you really telling me you lack the talent to pull that off? And you have to huff and puff and talk big about suing me in court? Really? Listen to yourself. Also, as a homeowner, you completely missed the point of this video, which is a DIY video showing the average homeowner how to make do with what they have. This video is for the average guys who are not skilled like Norm from New Yankee Workshop with thousands of dollars in tools to mill a completely custom piece of wood by hand. But like many angry trolls like you whose only purpose in life is to be angry on other people's videos, all you did is show your ignorance and how the whole purpose of this video sailed right over your head. A real man doesn't troll other people's videos with nonsense statements that just send a beacon to the world of how foolish they are.
Trump Train Conductor there is always a pain in the toody threatening court instead of dealing with issues face to face.
Problem solvers before court.
1 research your contractor/handy.
2. Call references and ask if they have pics.
3. Be clear you understand each step and final thought of your project.
4. If not happy go back to 3.
5. When communication breaks down, then seek counsel but a contract should have your expectations included. You should do your research and DD. Don’t just hire someone off of Facebook. I did. It was a simple project. It wasn’t worth going to court over. I fixed it myself. It was for some chickens. If you are getting something done on your house, research is not wasted time. It is an investment.
he put both reducers in backwards
You are backwards Brandon. Also you are wrong, this was not a reducer piece, it was a Threshold piece, big difference, normally used in deep channels up against sliding glass doors. It was necessary to use this due to the much higher height of the travertine tile floor. The actual matching reducer piece that you were assuming this was, which Home Depot made for this bamboo, does not adequately solve the much higher height of the tiles, so this thicker threshold piece had to be used to match the 2 levels.
I hope i never have to do this!
Piece of cake, we do it all the time.