I used the hack and it made a massive difference, where before I could hardly melt the solder at all, it now works as I would have expected such a tool to work. I got the copper sheet from a jewelry hobby shop really cheaply.
Since I did not have any copper foil around, I used some aluminium tape and stripped off the glue from the tape with acetone. its a little bit thicker than aluminum foil and is working great. Before this mod the fine tips for SMD where almost useless....
Aluminum foil also works, just not put too much there. It can fuse the tip to the heating core. copper can oxidize easily. The better one is stainless steel, last forever, and will not fuse tip. Just need to be careful, stainless steel foil is razor sharp.
Some cheap tips are made from 100% iron. Once oxidised, they become quite useless for heating or wetting solder. Copper tips work fine even with an air gap. The heating element bumps against the tip at the front.
I wonder what it takes to get a clean delamination of the copper layer on PCB stock. God knows it doesn't seem to have any trouble lifting off an old board when you don't want it to. 🤬
Happens with you as well? It happens fast for me where it starts to pit, then divots no matter how much I clean it, and retin it after each session. If I go back to sand down the divot/pit a new one happens almost immediately so I am suspecting the metal used in the tips is sub standard.
@@FSHerrante I didn't get that happening just the pitting that I have to say never happened before. Has to be because the copper used is inferior (sort of like Chinesium is an inferior iron type metal).
b888 I tried this mod a year ago and am happy to report that the shim still works perfectly. There is no discernible degradation in heat-up time so oxidation is not a factor. Before the mod, my iron struggled to desolder large heat sinks and components on large ground planes. After the mod, it was like I got a new iron...performance was significantly improved.
I used the hack and it made a massive difference, where before I could hardly melt the solder at all, it now works as I would have expected such a tool to work. I got the copper sheet from a jewelry hobby shop really cheaply.
I have used a peice of an old telescopic radio antenna. They Are made of brass. Works ok.
Since I did not have any copper foil around, I used some aluminium tape and stripped off the glue from the tape with acetone. its a little bit thicker than aluminum foil and is working great. Before this mod the fine tips for SMD where almost useless....
Aluminum foil also works, just not put too much there. It can fuse the tip to the heating core. copper can oxidize easily. The better one is stainless steel, last forever, and will not fuse tip. Just need to be careful, stainless steel foil is razor sharp.
I was searching for copper then was thinking aluminium foil may work.
Some cheap tips are made from 100% iron. Once oxidised, they become quite useless for heating or wetting solder. Copper tips work fine even with an air gap. The heating element bumps against the tip at the front.
I use a thermal paste-arctic and get optimum thermal conductivity !!!
I wonder what it takes to get a clean delamination of the copper layer on PCB stock. God knows it doesn't seem to have any trouble lifting off an old board when you don't want it to. 🤬
Excellent, this is the solution for this problem.
Cheers
Does the soldering tip need to bottom out so far that the bottom of the tip touches the cheramic heating element?
Any option to prevent the tip dissintegration in this soldering iron models?
Happens with you as well? It happens fast for me where it starts to pit, then divots no matter how much I clean it, and retin it after each session. If I go back to sand down the divot/pit a new one happens almost immediately so I am suspecting the metal used in the tips is sub standard.
@@generalawareness101 Yep i bought many tips because this reason and all death by the same. Tip carbonized and disintegrated.
@@FSHerrante I didn't get that happening just the pitting that I have to say never happened before. Has to be because the copper used is inferior (sort of like Chinesium is an inferior iron type metal).
Do wrapping with aluminium foil (kitchen use) works same?
no aluminum heat transfer is lesser then copper
I presume it would be better than air
Are they a good purchase?
Every soldering bit is having the ring to remove this gap. use quality bit instead of the local low cost bits
Could you have just used thermal paste?
أهلاً وسهلاً ومرحباً بك-يتعذر التعليق-لا أعلم .
The copper is untinned. Soon it will oxidize & make the heat transfer worse.
But not worse than an air gap, I'm reasonably sure about that.
Extremflug Ofcourse. if the air gap is huge.
b888 I tried this mod a year ago and am happy to report that the shim still works perfectly. There is no discernible degradation in heat-up time so oxidation is not a factor. Before the mod, my iron struggled to desolder large heat sinks and components on large ground planes. After the mod, it was like I got a new iron...performance was significantly improved.
sủa tiếng gì vậy
Yeu Nguoi Tung Duma đang coi clip tiếng Anh thấy có thằng óc chó người việt vô táp quần. Sợ vl
Good idea!