Soldering Iron Heating element fixing (Upgrade to Hakko A1321)
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2021
- **Note**
4&5 pins connected to Heating Element (Two red wires)
1&2 pins connected to Sensor wire (White and Blue wires)
Replacing Hakko A1321
The resistance value of the heating element (red) 2.5-3.5Ω
Resistance value of sensor (blue & white) 43-58Ω
DIY PCB Holder Articulating Friction Arm - • DIY PCB Holder make wi...
1. 8586 Soldering Station- • 8586 Soldering Station...
2. 24V 50W A1321 Replacement Soldering Element Ceramic - bit.ly/3qClYwS
3. 24V 5 Hole Female Solder Iron Handle for 907 936 Universal Soldering Station - bit.ly/3otKzl0
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Soldering Iron Heating element fixing (Upgrade to Ceramic Hakko A1321) - Навчання та стиль
So didactive,,a litle pequilar,bot,exelente exequthing,your music,so greate.
Please continue.
Perfect Music, thanks...
Very good holder
Nice one i didn't know i want to change a iron like this to work as with no station show me how thank for the video keep them comi'n
good video....cover every thing
Nach diesem Video habe ich so lange gesucht
Useful ♥♥
1 नंबर भाई
Nice work xD excellent
Good
جيد
العربية جميلة هههه
ههههه
Can we use 60w instead 90w filament?? Sir
Often fault in 60w filament soldering iron.
hello, thanks for your video, why did you cut the PCB, it is not better to have the heating element more coming out?
Heating elements wires weren’t long enough, specifically for the two red wires.
@@LahisTechLT Ok thank you for your answer, good evening!
❤
আমার একটা প্রশ্ন ছিলো যদি যানা থাকে একটু উত্তর দিলে অনেক উপকার হবে যেটা জানতে চাই এই যে গানের সাথে যে তাতাল দেওয়া আছে বা থাকে এই তাতাল কি আমি গান বাদ দিয়ে ফ্লাগ লাগিয়ে সরাসরি বিদ্যুতে ব্যাবহার করতে পারবো।??
What is the green and yellow tester and what is it showing? Does it measure temperature?
it is a voltage tester and it shows the voltage
Di rubah jg aolder biasa yg 2 kabel bisa ga yah??
Sir can you please tell me how to fix if sensor LED don't blink and not heat up the element.
Sensor wire have polarity positif & negative. Dont connect wrong polarity. Solder always go to higher temp, and LED not blinking if wrong sensor polarity
Nice tutorial
Hi fix diy
Positive 😊
How long have you been using this 2 in one rework station..is it good overall?
Yeah, that's good, I've been daily using this for the last 8-9months. No issues so far, only this bug came recently which is typical.
Ok thanks 😊
@@marko6550 this is the 1st one
Sir heating element new kahan se milega bataye please aur price 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Can it take up a higher heating wattage? From 30w to 40w??
Hello, we manufacture ceramic heating element for Soldering Iron, please contact us if you need it. Accept customization.
Hello sir
Patches link plz.
hello sir please make a circuit diagram with lm358 ic for soldering iron element A1322 / heating ohm's 15 sensor ohms 1.2
How to connect the connectors?
Ok
😊
how did you know its 24v 50w ?
Man's using a soldering iron to fix a soldering iron. 💀
My thoughts exactly 😂😂😂
what if the blinking red is not blinking is it in the soldering iron?
Sensor wire have polarity positive & negative. If you connect wrong polarity, Temp always go to higher temp and LED not blinking if wrong sensor polarity
Curious that the Hakko pouches say A1322?
They are a bit different than A1321
It's counterfeit, look at the font and logo, they are different from original hakko brand
@@zwtsch, The internet is awash in fake/counterfeit soldering accessories: tips in particular (I posted a video on my channel about this) but also heating elements, as well as crappy solder and flux. People need to *STOP* buying electronics accessories from Amazon , ebay, AliExpress, Alibaba and Banggood. There are plenty of authorized electronics parts and accessories distributors in the US who source their products carefully and are responsible to their customers if a product turns out to be counterfeit or is otherwise defective or unsatisfactory. If a soldering iron tip only cost you a couple of bucks or less, it's going to be counterfeit and it won't be made of copper. Even halfway decent soldering stations often come with crummy tips that are made completely of iron or steel instead of being copper with chrome plating on the body and a hint of iron plating (extremely important) on the pointy business end. I posted a review of the $45 Harbor Freight Schneider soldering station on my channel and it's actually a decent unit for what it costs, much better than what I had to work with as an electronics nerd in the 1960s and 70s, but the tips (900M type) that come with it are garbage and they're also conical which is the wrong shape for most work anyway.
Anyway this video would be much more useful if it had commentary from the technician, and if it didn't have the choppy sped-up editing. The music is extremely annoying, and even worse when I used the UA-cam settings to slow the video down, which also slowed the music down and made it distorted.
The video is only coming in 360p or 144p
Now, it’s available in 1080p
Hello, we manufacture ceramic heating element for Soldering Iron, please contact us if you need it. Accept customization.
all your heating elements including the new one(fake) was a1322.
your soldering station board and microcontroller are designed for an a1322 heating element that uses a thermocouple as a temperature sensor.
a1321 heating element use thermoresistor as a temperature sensor. and because of that, you must change the board diagram and firmware of your soldering station to be compatible with this element. otherwise, the temperature will be incorrect and useless.
Thank you
:)))))))))
the station itself is designed for these types of heating elements. :)
and what firmware you need for a 358, some presets, and a 3 digit voltmeter?
this is not a microcontroller based soldering station, just a plain analog one. :)
It uses lm358 which is an op amp and a triac as a switch. Where the hell are you gonna put the program?
No way I would have cut the PCB. The heating element will make the handle much hotter now that it is partially inside the pencil, and probably burn and melt the plastic in time, and basically destroy that pencil assembly. Plus you won't get as much heat transferred to the tip. I would have simply extended the wires if they were too short.
Tow red wires is for 220v?
24v
24v not 220
아무 이상이 없는것 같은데, 인두기에서 열이 발생하지 않나요? 저도 님과 똑같은 제품을 중국에서 구매하여 사용하였는데, 사용한지 10일도 않되어 님처럼 인두기가 고장이 났어요! 다 분해하여 살펴보아도 도무지 모르겠더군요! 그러나 고장난 원인을 알게 되었지요! 그것은, 남땜질 하는 동안은 괜찮지만, 땜질을 하지 않을때느 바로 바로 꺼야 합니다. 켜둔채로 30분정를 방치하면, 인두기 히터부분에서 니크롬 열선이 끊어져 버립니다! 사용후 금방 납땜질 하지 않을경우엔 곧바로 꺼주어야 합니다! 하는수 없이 8586 인두기용 열선을 너무 비싸고 구하기도 쉽지않고, 겨우 알아내어 2개를 중국에서 구매하여 교체하니 인두기에서 열이 나더군요!
Too much water in the sponge...it shoud be squeezed out. This is probably the reason of braking ceramic heater....huge temperature stress
I've seen soldering "tutorials" on UA-cam where the sponge is so wet that steam comes up from it when touched with the iron! The sponge here is also filthy and should be cleaned; better yet, use brass wool, its less stressful on the tip.
I am a little puzzled to learn that the resistance of the heating element is 2-5~3.5 ohm. Assume that it is 3 ohm and 24v simple physics(or electrics) tells the power will be almost 200w but say it is 60w. Also I could not see you actually measure the resistance to be around 3 ohm.
The resistance of the heater while cold will be extremely low but when it's heated up the resistance increases significantly. You can "see" this if you measure the resistance of an old-fashioned incandescent light bulb and calculate what it would draw for power when it's cold. When metals are heated, the atoms of the metal move farther apart from each other and are more active, in constant motion, and so hot materials typically have much greater resistance than the same material when it is cold. Such materials are known as positive temperature coefficient or PTC materials. Also interesting and usefull to note that in electronics there are semiconductor materials that have a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) whereby the resistance decreases as the device heats up; this is how thermistors work.
@goodun2974 You are right about the increase of resistance as the temperature gets higher. Then I have several t12 soldering tips rated 72W at 24V and the resistance is around 8 ohm. You know 24v and 8 ohm make 72W. I have checked the Hakko manual and found that the resistance was indeed 3ohm. May be their heaters are made of different materials and used different rating standard. Thank you for the reply.
@@hmjeon8609 , It's also important to be completely certain that you are measuring resistances of actual Hakko elements, rather than counterfeits and fakes which are everywhere online.
@goodun2974 I have both genuine and fakes. They are about the same resistance.
@@hmjeon8609 , I did a quick teardown of the iron from the cheap Harbor Freight Schneider soldering station and posted it on my channel; I diagrammed the wiring inside the iron and the 7 pin connector, and included the info in the video but I didn't think to measure the resistances. Several people have expressed interest in upgrading the stiff cable and/or finding replacement irons or heating elements.....
Sensor wire have polarity positif & negative. Dont connect wrong polarity. Solder always go to higher temp, and LED not blinking if wrong sensor polarity
Dump these old irons, these are slow and get yourself a STM32/T12 style iron
They aren't that slow..
@@vaastafraja5685 They don't respond as quickly to temperature changes.
kok warna beda
يتعذر التعليق لا أعلم .
+++++
Ok