Thanks Ralph, yes I’ve seen quite a few companies specialising in classics using their classic car focused range of products so found it reassuring that the guy that’s going to paint it was using the Novol paint scheme.
Probably a good idea to use weld through primer in UK to protect the metal especially in the winter, but for hotter, drier climes not really needed IMO, can go straight to epoxy sealer
There probably isn’t one good answer for all E-Type restorations but I’m curious what criteria you used to decide which flange seams to separate and which to leave intact.
Hi Mark, there are some flanges that just look wrong, bent over from being knocked during being worked on or from an underbody impact. Others I’ve tried to close up where they’ve parted a little between the spot welds. Mostly I can see on a flange that most looks ok but an end or a small area looks different and it’s due to wear and tear so that’s when I straighten it out.
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop Sorry, I should’ve been more specific. On the car I’m preparing to restore, I’m concerned about the possibility of corrosion on the mating surfaces of flanges that appear fine from the outside. I believe the factory left those flange mating surfaces untreated. A no expense spared restoration would probably separate every flange to ensure no corrosion while others might leave good looking seams intact and rely on chemical treatments and seam sealer. Expecting to be faced with similar decisions, I’m wondering how you decided at what point to stop disassembling this car?
Ah ok, thanks for clarifying. I’m making my decisions based on the condition of the spot welded seams I’m finding. Fortunately in most areas there’s literally no rust apparent on outside faces or signs of rust between spot welds opening up gaps and the spot welds themselves look in good clean condition without cracks. As the car has lasted 57 in this condition it gives me confidence that it’s been dry and looked after for most of that time so I don’t need to to it apart much. One area I was mulling over in deciding to dip or blast the shell are the hidden cavities which have waxoyl in them. I concluded that as they’re structurally sound I wouldn’t want to dip and strip everything unnecessarily. So far I’m pretty sure that’s the right decision (and it was what the painter recommended and he’s very experienced). I do have some fabrication and repair panels to fit still though.
I feel your pain re the blast media. That was exactly the reason I built a rotisserie.
Yes, getting rid of the blast media has been a pain. It still keeps appearing! 😅
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop I’m three years past blasting and I’m still finding it. 😬
From what I have seen of Novol products it appears to be excellent quality and the latest tech.
Thanks Ralph, yes I’ve seen quite a few companies specialising in classics using their classic car focused range of products so found it reassuring that the guy that’s going to paint it was using the Novol paint scheme.
Probably a good idea to use weld through primer in UK to protect the metal especially in the winter, but for hotter, drier climes not really needed IMO, can go straight to epoxy sealer
Yes, it has just switched from a warm and dry late summer to several days of constant rain 😩. Very glad this primer is on to protect it.
There probably isn’t one good answer for all E-Type restorations but I’m curious what criteria you used to decide which flange seams to separate and which to leave intact.
Hi Mark, there are some flanges that just look wrong, bent over from being knocked during being worked on or from an underbody impact. Others I’ve tried to close up where they’ve parted a little between the spot welds. Mostly I can see on a flange that most looks ok but an end or a small area looks different and it’s due to wear and tear so that’s when I straighten it out.
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop Sorry, I should’ve been more specific. On the car I’m preparing to restore, I’m concerned about the possibility of corrosion on the mating surfaces of flanges that appear fine from the outside. I believe the factory left those flange mating surfaces untreated. A no expense spared restoration would probably separate every flange to ensure no corrosion while others might leave good looking seams intact and rely on chemical treatments and seam sealer. Expecting to be faced with similar decisions, I’m wondering how you decided at what point to stop disassembling this car?
Ah ok, thanks for clarifying. I’m making my decisions based on the condition of the spot welded seams I’m finding. Fortunately in most areas there’s literally no rust apparent on outside faces or signs of rust between spot welds opening up gaps and the spot welds themselves look in good clean condition without cracks. As the car has lasted 57 in this condition it gives me confidence that it’s been dry and looked after for most of that time so I don’t need to to it apart much. One area I was mulling over in deciding to dip or blast the shell are the hidden cavities which have waxoyl in them. I concluded that as they’re structurally sound I wouldn’t want to dip and strip everything unnecessarily. So far I’m pretty sure that’s the right decision (and it was what the painter recommended and he’s very experienced). I do have some fabrication and repair panels to fit still though.