3D Printing Metal: How strong is it?
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- Опубліковано 14 кві 2024
- In this video, I test out how strong metal 3D printing actually is, by designing some 3D printed tools to 3D print out of ultra hard tool steel. Obviously, I don’t own a metal 3D printer, so I got a little bit of help from my friends over at PCBWay. You can check them out at jle.vi/pcbway (Not sponsored, parts were provided as free samples, though).
- Наука та технологія
I look forward to the day we can do this at home for a reasonable price
I don’t think that’ll ever happen metal alone is expensive and I can only assume it’ll get more expensive as time goes on
@@tt._.7857but thats like 10 gramms of metall maybe. If the cost of lasers and optical lenses would come down you could sell hobby metall 3d printers
@@tt._.7857 It's not the metal, it's the process. At the end of the day you're just _very accurately_ sintering metal powder, which requires expensive machines (tooling). And if you're running a business making things you'll want to see the RoI rather quickly.
@@loc4725 oh damn wait so 3d printing metal uses sls? I pictured come crazy hot hot end with metal filament but I mean that makes a lot less sense😂😂
@@tt._.7857 That might actually be possible, if you had a ceramic hotend, low(ish) melting point metal and some sort of exotic cooling setup.
You should check if you can heat treat the bit, without that nothing will be strong enough
Hmm, good point. How hot do I need to go? I bet they could've done that for me if I'd asked.
@thenextlayer with mist knives I think they just get it red hot then drop it it oil.
I would check the specifications of the steel. Some steels are better quenched in oil and some are better quenched in water.
Use a rare earth magnet and hang it on a string, use a gas torch and heat the metal until it's red and use the hanging magnet to see if the metal is still magnetic. Once it's not magnetic anymore, quench the metal in oil or water. I recommend electroplating it with zinc after hardening to prevent rusting.
Was gonna say the same if I didn't find someone else saying it.
@@thenextlayerget it hot enough that it's non magnetic. Usually close to white just past orange, but depends on your lighting conditions.
This is not exactly how you're going to have a bit that lasts long. You will need a hardening process like any other tool steel.
This seems like a good merch idea
Totally, except I'd need to order like, 10,000 of them. Do you want one? And if so, how much is it work to you? :)
If your just selling the bit, I'd pay no more than $10 usd.. if it's a set I'd say $30-40 usd..
can we get the link for the multitool?
You should look at Wera's hex tools. There is a concave dip on each of the 6 sides. Wera claims this makes the tool stronger. This may prevent sheering.
I can attest to this.
I have a 6 or 8mm caliper bolt on my motorcycle that lightly striped using the regular hex bolt but I was luckily able to get it out using Wera's Hex-Plus wrench.
I’m guessing that bit wasn’t hardened. Idk what kind of steel they used or if it even could be hardened but they’re may be room for improvement.
If you make the splined area loonger you can cut it off when it gets stripped and have fresh splines.
Nice , then find a way to harden w heat like others mentioned
Should do an update on this with effects of heat treatment and show overall cost as well to be most informative
You forgot the last crucial step for tool steel. Heat treatment in sure this would be much stronger after the treatment!
Good call I need to try that
I find it VERY hard to believe you can't get that bit from a store. I have every bit you can imagine and they're all store bought. Star heads with the hole in the middle and all.
But two different shapes on two different ends???
Maybe you could JB weld two single sided bits if you trim the bases?
You should have gone to a old school machinist. He would have dug out a long type phillips bit for the base, an cylinrical bit holder to modify into a holding jig and put it in his trusty improvised divider head made from a collet chuck inserted in a piece of hexagon stock. After turning it to a desired transition, he would mount the improvised divider on the support, fix a milling cutter in the chuck and make the hex.
Half an hour of work for a experienced machinist for a much better product.
Or cut away the flat side, bore a hole and glue in the hex.
@@heavyweather Excellent idea! You could even leave out the glue and simply press it in. The hex shape can be rounded up and turned down to a diameter with a drill and a file.
Smart I didn't think of that.
Sounds expensive lol what do you think that would cost at a machine shop? I'm also curious what it cost to print
Pretty much, except we don't put endmills or milling cutters into chucks. :) Collets or "endmill holders" work significantly better.
Wiha ultra driver bits work. They have pretty much every double headed bit imaginable
Yes, but the hex are hex (different sizes) on both sides, same with philips, they don't have one that's phillips on one side and hex on the other
Make the hexagonal shaped tip twice as long and as you strip it, use a metal file to remove small amounts of material and expose the rest of the intact geometry to keep having that crisp fit on the screws.
What printing process was used? I assume laser powder bed fusion?
you must temple the metal to do it strong .. if not, metal is maleable as plasteline..
temple: make it hot minimum at 800ºC , as hot a hell .... then quick put into water, or oil at ambient temperature..
that will temple the metal and make it hard and strong..
Nice! What is name and type of toolholder?
Gerber gear armbar drive apparently, someone commented just below you instead of replying lol
Haha I mostly use the flathead. I'd imagine it would need to be heat tempered for it to work.
That is really cool! I love your videos
they can be but they need proper post processing and the right material choice aswell.
Didn't know you needed to post-process. Could I have made it stronger?
What is "proper post-processing"?
@@thenextlayer You don't need to but depending on applications it can help with it durability and ofcoruse strength. Various traditional metal heat treatment methods and process such as tempering can increase the hardness of the finished part which you want in this case and other methods such as HIP (Hot isostatic pressing) to increase the uniformatiy of the printed and reduce the porosity as that is one of the biggest weakness of 3d printed metal parts, where majority of the part strength is at. But unfortunately these are all industrial processes that cant be easily done at home lol.
@@saltyexxer8253 Post processing methods that can improve the parts performance (material properties) there is many different ways and methods but you need to choose the suitable one for it application
@@saltyexxer8253
Perhaps Tempering.. ?.. One could even suggest coatings(like drill bits-cobalt/titanium) but I am reaching here as this is not my bag.. 🤙🏻
You just gained a subscriber my friend!
I've always wanted to have hex tips with longer tips on them. That way you round one which is enevitably going to happen. Then you can just grind away a couple mm of material, slowly. Don't want to change the temper. And boom. Ya in there!
After overtightening a few screws, all my hex drivers will step just like this. Seems as good as any to me.
Wiha Bit Set 77782 is the set you're looking for if you want dual sided bits that have 2.5 mm hex. One side is 2mm and the other is 2.5mm. Also includes torx and phillips as well. 13 bits, 26 sides in all
I want one side Philips and the other Hex…
@@thenextlayer May I ask why? You can purchase a multi tool pouch with a small pocket to hold a bit driver set for next to nothing. Certainly magnitudes less than you'll be able to CNC one. Despite what has been suggested here, heat treating small 3D printed bits will not be any benefit due to the porous nature of the material. Even if it did, (it won't) it's also going to cost you well more to procure the equipment necessary for a proper heat treat anyways.
I get the makers nature of solving the problem like you attempted, but sometimes the best answer is the answer that's already available in front of you.
Very cool! What multitool is that?
Just grind down the bit to remove the rounded portion. If you order another one print it a bit longer.
As an alternate you could just JB-weld the two bits you want back to back. Make sure the joint is ground back to bare steel. It looks like your tool would even support past the joint and no special tools required to make it and no heat to ruin the heat-treat.
When the tip gets rounded on your hex bit, grind it down a millimeter on the face.👍
Just use a grinder to remove the stripped part of the bit, and it will work perfectly again! You can do it multiple times, it makes your tool last 3x longer!
So what gear did you need to 3D print hardened steel, or inconel...etc.?
2mm is tiny for an Allen. That would happen with a machined tool steel bit also.
Shredding small bits happens to even machined metal bits. You on the other hand has the possibility to make the bits longer so that you can grind the damaged tip off as it goes bad 😉 Thus prolonging the lifespan of the bit.
Better way would probably be to 3d print one, cast it, and then pour metal into the cast that can be refined and made to fit perfectly, cool video though, curious to see how metal 3d printing could potentially end up manifesting in something like PCB manufacturing for sure
How much did it cost to make a part that small and what quantity did they recommend?
Anybody got an idea of where I can get that multi tool? Kinda need it.
3D printing metal is brilliant, But honestly hundreds of companies produce hardened Hex driver bits
and a lot cheaper from places like Amazon C.K T4524 Hexagon Screwdriver Bit Set, Grey, M2
I wonder if one could 3D print slightly undersized, then case harden?
Can you make a printer nozzle? With a 3d printer? Furthermore is it possible to mass produce cheap printer nozzles for cheap printer repair?(I know creality nozzles are like $15 it's just the question of can we?
Try heating it and dipping it in oil. Ive learned this from mythbusters way back when i was a kid and it has worked for me before with cheap tools i bought.
Depending upon the process and post processing, it can be.
UA-cam recommending this on a video about printing knives.
Not they have your file and they will make a bunch of them to sell .
This is like a recipe where they pontificate at length about her husband's favorite meal.
If it is just printed like this, even if it is perfectly solid without any... spaces? air? in it, it is still not hardened.
If it was machined but not hardened, it would also wear off quick.
What kind of multi tool is that?
Dude I'm always looking at mine and I'm just like I wish I could have a hex in this. Why didn't I think of this.
I kinda wanna make them but I don't think I'd be able to sell 10,000 of them lol
@@thenextlayer I agree. Is it reasonable just to get like 100 3d printed?
2 minutes on a bench grinder would have been a more efficient way to get your hex end
You could mill a hex on an existing bit In a few minutes on a manual milling machine.
Cool but I don’t have one man
@@thenextlayer I mean, I was going to offer if you didn’t.
His guy talking about having a screwdriver in your pocket mean while I have a kraftform kompact in my pocket everyday with my keys and a Leatherman sidekick and a Milwaukee fast backend that's just 1 pocket
Maybe designing it like the wera hex plus would be stronger?
Need to look into that
Nobody would CNC bits like that.
They'd be swaged / die formed.
Do some heat treatment experiments. All you'd need is a blow torch, a random oil and maybe your oven for normalisation
Great idea, I'll do that.
Reality is if you wrench on something hard enough or apply torque with the bit not full seated in the head of the screw or bolt then literally nothing will withstand that for long and the thin edges are what take the damage.
That's totally true
You should try and annealing the metal.
How would that help?
W Gerber Armbar Drive
Huge quantities?" How much did that cost as a sintered 3d part? In my experience, even a couple dozen pieces is quite reasonable to produce in a small job shop. CNC is becoming very affordable. Get 20 or 30 of them made, and you'll have enough for years to come.
...so it's as strong as the commercially available bits they sell at Harbor Freight then?
Probably not
@@thenextlayer First and last time I ever shopped at Harbor Freight, bought a pack of driver bits, first time using them I snapped two phillips bits trying to drive a single screw...so yeah this thing doesn't seem any worse lol
Homie missed a chance to have a magnetic hex holder and a bit holder then u can really take apart and fix printer
How much did it cost?
I think each one was $38+shipping
When you round the end of a hex or torqes bit just file the rounded end off and you have a new bit again. Your welcome😊
Yep, will do
Hmm, hard to find part that needs to be mass produced....sounds like you found a niche my friend. Exploit that glitch!
How many people want this though?
Maybe show it being printed.
3d printed metal is about as strong as casted metal if not worse
Now all they need to do is get the price down.
You can't print hardened tool steel! You can print steel but you need to heat treat to harden it
3D metal printing is still too expensive for production. Even Desktop Metal who aquired ExOne is too expensive.
can you electroplate it with stronger metal?
If its ACTUALLY tool steel then it may need to be tempered still.. see if pcbway has tempered it yet, and if they havent youre gonna need a buddy with a forge to take her up to glowing and quench... And unless youre in las vegas i can't really help ya with that.
Can I do it with a blowtorch and oil?
Thas why you need it cheap enoigh to just 3d print another one if it breaks lol
Cut off the end of the one you messed up to get back to the usable points. will make it last a bit longer ... er ... even it it is actually shorter. LOL
In small quantities that would be cheaper. Give me the right machine though I can make that part in about a minute which would be cheaper in large quantities
Can you make me some? Lol.
00:42 - Cool to learn with errors when the errors are not mine!!! Ultra hard tool steel isn't stronger than iron wirhout quenching. Good lesson.
I quenched it after reading the comments here and now it's GOOOOD
@@thenextlayer I am lucky. I came from a family of machinists. I learned how to quench in the kitchen in... not so sure, maybe 1988. Small gun parts like sears and firing pins.Created an account on PCBWAY yesterday.
Well, it seems like it didn't break it the layer lines at least 🤷🏿♀️
Your skin is sick. It is dark.
Break *at...
من لم يكن عليا مولاه فان الشيطان مولاه
TL;DR No. No it's not.
There is all junk around you dont you give a fkn clean
Great idea! 🫶🏼 you can reduce the length, than you have a better grip 😉