How to remove a stuck brake bleeder screw
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- See below for all the links you’ll need. And thanks for watching! Hope this helps you in breaking those bleeders screws loose
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Video Summary:
Covers increasingly aggressive methods to help you avoid snapping the screw off
-oil penetrant ever 15 minutes for up to two hours
-lightly hammer near the screw to break rust loose
-wire brush to remove surface rust, allow penetrant to soak in deeper
-socket to use more torque with less chance of stripping the screw
-sheared drill bit to help stabilize the screws under more aggressive torque
-impact driver
-rounded bolt socket with air hammer and bolt breaker attachment
Also covers finishing steps
-replacing with new screws
-one person method of bleeding or flushing the brake system
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Yep, I learned this the hard way. Whether you think you need it or not, WD-40 the bleeder screws for a hour, then start the removal with the a socket (or at least the box-end of the wrench). DON'T start dry, and DON'T start with the open-end of the wrench, because you're not applying equal torque around the bleeder screw and it will deform and break.
You’re a Saint! I’ve been spraying penetrating fluid for hours and thought about using the impact but was too scared of something breaking off. But I also like putting the anti seize before install. That’ll save a headache down the road.
Air hammer+penetration oil working 100% on every try I did . But please be patient.Thanks for posting .
You are a treasure. Great guide.
However, mine are super stuck. Tried flare wrench, socket, snapped it, tried screw extractor, propane, more propane, hammering, propane + freeze out, and snapped screw extractor too. PITA
So helpful! I'm trying to do this myself as I'd already paid a garage to bleed my brakes only to find they clearly hadn't done the brake lines and must have just pulled from the MC. Every other video had blow-torch wielding folks that made me envisage my whole car blowing up (surely heat + petrol?!) Will update to let you know how it goes!
Its nice to have patience and the various tools - I have neither :)
for the bleeding part. i use little check-valve thingy that hook up to the bleeder nipple.
you just pump the brake until the fluid is running clear and you are done.
they sell for 2-3$.
Thanks the tip! I know there’s something similar -> Speed Bleeder brand screws. Really popular in the race community for quick bleeds but just as helpful for any shade tree mechanic. They have stainless steel screws which would’ve helped prevent my issue! www.speedbleeder.com/index.htm
@@mugs132 i wish everything on a car would be stainless or aluminium.
I should watch this first, my brake nipples are rownded now on my volvo s60. Some say you heat it and it easier. Anyway I'm thinking to change them with new one. Thanks for the video.
What the purpose of the partial drill bit? How does it work.
I would put the rubber caps on each brake bleeder and good video
Do you replace them after the fact if they are freezing
Not sure why you keep taking the power bleeder off. Fill the bleeder…pressurize to 15…after each bleed … make sure to pump back to 15.
You are far less likely to break a fastener or bleed screw by using an impact tool than be manually trying to remove them.
Wax is great for breaking them loose, heat it then press wax against the threads allowing it to melt as it cools it will pull the melted wax down the threads.
Let cool to room temperature and remove.
6 point socket or wrench
Hello, great video, thanks! Just wondering how you stopped all of the fluid in the system from draining when you removed the bleeder screw? Thanks!
Hose clamp on flexible rubber hose to the caliper or you could get a bar/rod and inside depress the brake pedal and keep it pressured against say the seat with the rod....with the pedal depressed there's a vacuum seal in the lines because the MC has been closed so nothing should come out the lines even without clamping.
@@barriobarranco It is invariably such a simple thing the second someone explains it to you, even though it defeats me for hours before that! Thanks!
Keep hood up,, so that's what I've been doing wrong this whole time.
Your first mistake was using a wrench instead of a 6 point socket on a ⅜ impact
What is the drill bit for?
To stop you crushing the bleed nipple
@@Finglesham ah ha
Good stuff
gr8 upload.
Step One : NEVER use an open end or 12 point wrench on any bleeder . If I have to explain that to anyone , we are done here .
Explain
@@Jmg831Because of the propensity for them to easily slip and round of the head. Just a naff way of doing things. Single hex deep socket is best.
@@bEEBO178 thanks for the explanation! I had no idea
@@Jmg831😅
Just share your knowledge and move along.
Those calipers need to be replaced
Hi. If you put break fluid into your power bleeding tool you cant fill up your reservoar.
Here is link ua-cam.com/video/Ej7tZEBbqrI/v-deo.html
I like to use the pump just for air pressure. I do not fill the pump with fluid, but like you point out it can also be done that way so you don’t have to fill the reservoir multiple times. I think it’s cleaner, less chance of contamination doing it the way demonstrated in the video.
Never use an open end when u can use the box end. Tap it with a rubber mallet
I don’t see why you wasted a drill bit.
You won't snap the bolt off, gives it extra strength.