My 05 suburban's engine looked twice as sludgy as your engine here when I had it taken apart to do a big cam and new lifters. I was prepared for the worst but upon checking the rod and cam bearings, they were, by some miracle absolutely perfect. No idea how but I got really lucky on that one...
Same here absolutely perfect bearings and cam lobes and crank And Inside the engine Replaced 8 pushrods and rockers cause of the football shaped non mirror finish on those 01 suburban purchased 3 months ago 160k hauled a crap ton of carpet overloaded for years a few years back to I was told and I believe it
Got a 2005 gmc Yukon Denali 6.0l At first I leaned towards the oil pressure sensor which I just changed, no prevail then I was thinking the oil pump but with little @188k I was was like no way. Oil changed @4k regularly with half and half synthetic. Then I remembered GM had a problem with those o-rings on there pick up tube.
My 2005 Z71 Tahoe with 350,000 miles on her had the same issue, the o-ring did the trick. I was very good about doing my oil changes, always ran Mobile one full synthetic, the o-ring just squared up and wouldn't seal. I call her Gertie and she is still going strong, she does not leak any oil and gives me a solid 17 mph mix highway/city driving.
Replaced the pick up tube o-ring on my 2005 Silverado at 259,000 miles. Was hearing a knocking noise, it freaked me out, thought my engine was going bad. Figured out it was lifter noise cause after a while the noise went away. Same symptom of low oil pressure. Did some researching and found out about the o-ring issue on the 5.3 motor. It happens even if you are changing your oil regularly due to age and heat, change mine every 6 months(5-6,000 miles). Cheap part but a chore for a driveway DIYer like myself, saved a lot of money by not having a shop do it. Currently over 300,000 miles with good oil pressure and whisper quiet. Change your oil on a regular basis folks, your engine will reward you with trouble free miles.
2nd video on the Sierra in less than a week, I dig it! Appreciate you showing the part numbers because it can be a pain for some like me that’s just learning. ✌🏼
I was actually going to suggest the same oil you used in the video. I have an 07 Avalanche and have experimented with different oil filters and have gotten different oil pressure with each one. Recently I switched to the Valvoline Restore and Protect oil and consistently get better oil pressure with that oil, like 5-7psi better pressure at idle and a little more while driving. I’m going to keep using that oil.
Great video Matt. My 04 Silverado has 207K always changed the oil since I owned it with 123K clean as can be inside. Only I have no clue what my oil pressure is because the only gauge left working on my cluster is the Speedo.
I had the same issue on my 2001 Tahoe. I bought it used with 147k and the sludge condition was just about equal to yours. Had a bit of lifter tap, too. I changed the O-ring and did oil changes every 2k or so with a quart of marvel mystery oil each time until the lifter tick subsided. That was in 2016. I’ve put 100k miles on it since and it runs like a top.
You’ll never have a cleaner inside of an engine if you use Berryman’s Chemtoool B12. Years ago they used to recommend using it prior to an oil change. You would add some and let the motor idle for five minutes, then change the oil they’ve since removed that use from the packaging, however, if you search the web, you can find photos of its use. I had the valve cover off of a Toyota motor with lots of kicked up sludge once and simply poured a bottle over the cams and on the sludge and watched it all melt right off instantly.
I had the dealership replace my transmission in 2013. Dealership states: oil pan leak. I said go ahead and fix it while the tranny is out. They never recommended fixing the 2.50 oil pickup ring seal. Thanks! 02 Silverado 1500 5.3 288K
I wonder how many with low oil pressure just need a new o-ring. Our 2002 Z28 had lifter tap for over a decade, and oil pressure slightly on the low end. I replaced the o-ring and it's quiet as a mouse with 170k miles on it. That thing has to be sucking air into the oil supply so badly.
My 2006 Yukon has 150K miles in the mornings it has 60 oil press and even when warmed up under heavy acceleration it shoot up to 80 psi. Always change my oil every 5K miles or 6 months.
It's funny I just notice a few days ago my oil pressure gauge is doing the same thing on my 04 Tahoe and then you come out with a video about it thank you for that I'll be changing oring on the pick up tube and oil pan gasket
I got the same truck 06 sierra 4x4 z71. Pulling the pan between the axel and block itself was such a pain in the ass. You need baby hands to get to them tight spaces.
I just did the pick up tube and o ring on my 2005 Tahoe. Stated it one day and had no oil pressure. Changed the tube and o ring, now I have 10psi at idle, and 20 on a cold NJ winter morning start… guess I should have done the oil pump.
I'm just pulled my motor to do a DOD delete. I'm replacing the oil pump and on the oil pick up tube i am adding a melling M29500 oil tube bracket on top of the factory mounting system. I also installed a billet oil passage diverter plug (barbell) from Improved Racing. The previous owner put a bunch of additives in the oil to fix a lifter noise. So i am starting fresh 0n my 2008 GMC Sierra with a 5.3 and 103k miles. I bought it cheap so it's definitely worth it.
I did a pan gasket and o-ring last year in my 02 Yukon XL. I pulled the whole diff out. Honestly, it's not that big of a deal, not THAT much extra work, and makes life 100x easier pulling off the pan, torqeuing bolts, etc. Plus, for bonus points, it made it extremely quick and easy to replace the diff seals that have a tendency to go out on our era of trucks.
Did this on my 03 Tahoe. Having the belt driven fan makes it a bigger pain in the butt. I also replaced my oil pump at the same time. I did mine at around 240k. At 302k now.
@@lsxmatt awesome!!!! Thanks for all of your videos! It’s my favorite channel! I recently received an 86 trans am identical to yours aside from t-tops. Mine is a hard top. Your videos have been a great help while working on it.
Just did this to my wife's 2012 Suburban. Her issue was that it had 40 lbs cold, but would go to 0 as it warmed up. Changed the O ring... and it was better... what actually fixed the issue... believe it or not.... was changing the oil filter.
Valvoline makes a restore & protect oil. I think it was originally to address clogging CAT diesel engines. Apparently takes several oil changes and you might want to change the filter extra frequently. NOT DEXOS and there is risks disliodging all that garbage in the engine. We are trying it on a 2.4 (the oil control rings clog with DI carbon).
When I did my o-ring I noticed my screen on the pickup tube was completely sludged up and soaked it in purple power for a couple days for it to finally puke all the sludge out of the tube. I'm almost positive that had more of an impact on my oil pressure than the o ring did although mine was way lower. The day before I pulled it in the backyard to do it it only had about 15 psi at idle.
Check your PCV valve as well. If that thing is blowing oil past, apparently that also causes sludge buildup. I have a bad sludge problem in my silverado. And it's the same engine. Roughly the same generation as it is a 2001. And I can change the oil at 2000 me and it has a massive amount of sludge in the bottom. So the next step is for me to change the PCV valve. And I may do the valve seals. To be fair, it also does smoke a little bit on startup. But that's only if I take it for a longer drive and then park it for the night. So that I'm fairly certain is valve seals. But the sludge issue is most likely PCV valve.
I bought a 03 Tahoe and had oil pressure issues change the oil pressure sensor it was back to normal for a month or two and started having this same issue now i know what to try next n im almost positive this is my issue as well
I recently did an engine swap (coincidentally an l33 like this seirra) in my 04 tahoe and forgot to lube the oring. Less then 2k miles and have dreaded symptoms of a pinched one. Lets hope swapping it out fixes it.
My 2004 5.3 Vortec Engine Gets An Engine Flush Every 75,000 Miles By Removing A Quart Of Oil & Replacing It With A Quart Of Valvoline Synthetic Transmission Fluid & This Is Done About 250 - 500 Miles Prior To The Next Complete Oil Change Wow'Za It Gets That Pep When You Step Right Back In Your Engine Performance Transmission Fluid Has Unbelievable Cleaning Properties & You Loose No Significant Oil Viscosity For That Short Span Just Before You Do The Complete Oil Change I Have Seen That New Valvoline Oil & It Works From The Little On You- Tube Vlog Reports So Far 👍
My 2006 avalanche with 220k miles has had an occasional lifter tick for the past 10k miles. Replaced my pickup tube o ring and the tick went away and my pressure sits at 40 warm idle instead of the previous 20-30
Wait until you do your first oil change. You’re gonna be surprised. Some people even change their filter at like 500 miles to be safe because there’s so many chunks come out
Removed the skid plates, unbolted the passenger axle flange and two passenger diff to frame bolts. Removed the lower driver side differential to frame bolt and pryed the diff down for clearance. Loosened the starter, removed the two plastic flywheel covers on both rear sides of the pan. Unbolted the wiring harness from the front of the pan, then unbolted the pan from the engine and the two 15mm bolts into the back of the pan that go through the bell housing.
What would cause it to lose oil pressure as it warms up? I have an '06 envoy Denali, I had the rear main seal done awhile back and replaced the pressure sensor and screen filter. It stays at 40 cold then drops. It'll go back up to 40 and slightly above with rpm
mine hovers right above zero on cold starts and gets to about 20psi at 1500rpm when warm... i think its time for a new o ring. And maybe some new cam and main bearings lol
Im wondering if there is where the oil leak on my 03 tahoe 5.3 is coming from. I thought it was the dipstick, but after replacing it, i still lose about a tablespoon of oil every time I park. Its also happening on the passenger side. When I put a AT-203 in, it will stop for about a week. So where ever it is, it has something to do with something rubber. Any suggestions anyone?
If the back of the pan is wet it’s more than likely the rear main seal. Theres a little metal inspection cover you can pop off the bell housing and look inside. Look for oil at the bottom of the seal.
A failure that would never happen on a good old small block Chevy. I don't understand why people think that the LS pile of garbage is better than the SBC.
My 05 suburban's engine looked twice as sludgy as your engine here when I had it taken apart to do a big cam and new lifters. I was prepared for the worst but upon checking the rod and cam bearings, they were, by some miracle absolutely perfect. No idea how but I got really lucky on that one...
Same here absolutely perfect bearings and cam lobes and crank
And Inside the engine Replaced 8 pushrods and rockers cause of the football shaped non mirror finish on those
01 suburban purchased 3 months ago 160k hauled a crap ton of carpet overloaded for years a few years back to I was told and I believe it
I sure know how to pick em🤦♂
Lol. I was just gonna tell tells you about that oil. 😂.
Got a 2005 gmc Yukon Denali 6.0l
At first I leaned towards the oil pressure sensor which I just changed, no prevail then I was thinking the oil pump but with little @188k I was was like no way. Oil changed @4k regularly with half and half synthetic. Then I remembered GM had a problem with those o-rings on there pick up tube.
Please do a in depth dive on a titan rear window mod!
My 2005 Z71 Tahoe with 350,000 miles on her had the same issue, the o-ring did the trick. I was very good about doing my oil changes, always ran Mobile one full synthetic, the o-ring just squared up and wouldn't seal. I call her Gertie and she is still going strong, she does not leak any oil and gives me a solid 17 mph mix highway/city driving.
Replaced the pick up tube o-ring on my 2005 Silverado at 259,000 miles. Was hearing a knocking noise, it freaked me out, thought my engine was going bad. Figured out it was lifter noise cause after a while the noise went away. Same symptom of low oil pressure. Did some researching and found out about the o-ring issue on the 5.3 motor. It happens even if you are changing your oil regularly due to age and heat, change mine every 6 months(5-6,000 miles). Cheap part but a chore for a driveway DIYer like myself, saved a lot of money by not having a shop do it. Currently over 300,000 miles with good oil pressure and whisper quiet. Change your oil on a regular basis folks, your engine will reward you with trouble free miles.
2nd video on the Sierra in less than a week, I dig it! Appreciate you showing the part numbers because it can be a pain for some like me that’s just learning. ✌🏼
I was actually going to suggest the same oil you used in the video. I have an 07 Avalanche and have experimented with different oil filters and have gotten different oil pressure with each one.
Recently I switched to the Valvoline Restore and Protect oil and consistently get better oil pressure with that oil, like 5-7psi better pressure at idle and a little more while driving. I’m going to keep using that oil.
Great video Matt. My 04 Silverado has 207K always changed the oil since I owned it with 123K clean as can be inside. Only I have no clue what my oil pressure is because the only gauge left working on my cluster is the Speedo.
Only one working on my 05 Tahoe is the tac
@@donaldcox3086 That was the first to go on mine! lol
I had been dreading this. I knew it was possible on a 4x2 but not 4x4! This is awesome!
Same!!!
I had the same issue on my 2001 Tahoe. I bought it used with 147k and the sludge condition was just about equal to yours. Had a bit of lifter tap, too. I changed the O-ring and did oil changes every 2k or so with a quart of marvel mystery oil each time until the lifter tick subsided. That was in 2016. I’ve put 100k miles on it since and it runs like a top.
You’ll never have a cleaner inside of an engine if you use Berryman’s Chemtoool B12. Years ago they used to recommend using it prior to an oil change. You would add some and let the motor idle for five minutes, then change the oil they’ve since removed that use from the packaging, however, if you search the web, you can find photos of its use.
I had the valve cover off of a Toyota motor with lots of kicked up sludge once and simply poured a bottle over the cams and on the sludge and watched it all melt right off instantly.
i was just typing to use restore and protect 🤣 ive been using it ever since it came out and it does in fact work!
I had the dealership replace my transmission in 2013. Dealership states: oil pan leak. I said go ahead and fix it while the tranny is out. They never recommended fixing the 2.50 oil pickup ring seal. Thanks! 02 Silverado 1500 5.3 288K
valvoline restore and protect is no joke, that oil fixed blow by on my v6 tacoma under like 800 miles. that thing WORKS
Just did the same thing on my o4 suburban 2 days ago and it had the same oil pressure. And I ended up with the same result as you.
I wonder how many with low oil pressure just need a new o-ring. Our 2002 Z28 had lifter tap for over a decade, and oil pressure slightly on the low end. I replaced the o-ring and it's quiet as a mouse with 170k miles on it. That thing has to be sucking air into the oil supply so badly.
I miss me some 80 synth music, we need the TA back! But this was a a great video as this is a common problem on GM trucks.
Did this today on my 05 escalade it was hard as a rock and fell right out! New one slide right in i soaked it in oil!
Dude that oil is no joke, im running it in project monsterburb and already seing significant improvement
I just got that oil
A good engine flush is type f trans fluid
1 quart to the oil a few days before changing the oil
You should do a BG Dynamic treatment. It will make the engine look new inside. All sludge gone. It's a little pricey, but worth it.
My 2006 Yukon has 150K miles in the mornings it has 60 oil press and even when warmed up under heavy acceleration it shoot up to 80 psi. Always change my oil every 5K miles or 6 months.
It's funny I just notice a few days ago my oil pressure gauge is doing the same thing on my 04 Tahoe and then you come out with a video about it thank you for that I'll be changing oring on the pick up tube and oil pan gasket
I got the same truck 06 sierra 4x4 z71. Pulling the pan between the axel and block itself was such a pain in the ass. You need baby hands to get to them tight spaces.
I just did the pick up tube and o ring on my 2005 Tahoe. Stated it one day and had no oil pressure. Changed the tube and o ring, now I have 10psi at idle, and 20 on a cold NJ winter morning start… guess I should have done the oil pump.
You should experiment with the new Valvoline Restore and Protect oil and see if it cleans that sludge out of the engine.
Welp I commented at 5 minutes into the video and see that was the plan anyways 😅
I'm just pulled my motor to do a DOD delete. I'm replacing the oil pump and on the oil pick up tube i am adding a melling M29500 oil tube bracket on top of the factory mounting system. I also installed a billet oil passage diverter plug (barbell) from Improved Racing. The previous owner put a bunch of additives in the oil to fix a lifter noise. So i am starting fresh 0n my 2008 GMC Sierra with a 5.3 and 103k miles. I bought it cheap so it's definitely worth it.
I did a pan gasket and o-ring last year in my 02 Yukon XL. I pulled the whole diff out. Honestly, it's not that big of a deal, not THAT much extra work, and makes life 100x easier pulling off the pan, torqeuing bolts, etc. Plus, for bonus points, it made it extremely quick and easy to replace the diff seals that have a tendency to go out on our era of trucks.
Great vid. Will look what my lq4 has for pressure at next start
Did this on my 03 Tahoe. Having the belt driven fan makes it a bigger pain in the butt. I also replaced my oil pump at the same time. I did mine at around 240k. At 302k now.
AMSOIL engine flush works great. I use it on all my old high milage new to me engines.
When can we expect a new Trans Am video? Love the progress you were making.
It’ll be the next video on this channel.
@@lsxmatt awesome!!!! Thanks for all of your videos! It’s my favorite channel! I recently received an 86 trans am identical to yours aside from t-tops. Mine is a hard top. Your videos have been a great help while working on it.
I have a 1996 Express 1500 van with a vortec 5.7 and it has well over 200k on it and still going fine
Love Love LOVE simple fixes.
Just did this to my wife's 2012 Suburban. Her issue was that it had 40 lbs cold, but would go to 0 as it warmed up. Changed the O ring... and it was better... what actually fixed the issue... believe it or not.... was changing the oil filter.
I’ve heard of that before. Apparently the bypass or something in the filter gets stuck open.
Valvoline makes a restore & protect oil. I think it was originally to address clogging CAT diesel engines. Apparently takes several oil changes and you might want to change the filter extra frequently. NOT DEXOS and there is risks disliodging all that garbage in the engine. We are trying it on a 2.4 (the oil control rings clog with DI carbon).
Another nice video, about to do the samething on my '06, same low cold oil pressure.
When I did my o-ring I noticed my screen on the pickup tube was completely sludged up and soaked it in purple power for a couple days for it to finally puke all the sludge out of the tube. I'm almost positive that had more of an impact on my oil pressure than the o ring did although mine was way lower. The day before I pulled it in the backyard to do it it only had about 15 psi at idle.
Check your PCV valve as well. If that thing is blowing oil past, apparently that also causes sludge buildup. I have a bad sludge problem in my silverado. And it's the same engine. Roughly the same generation as it is a 2001. And I can change the oil at 2000 me and it has a massive amount of sludge in the bottom. So the next step is for me to change the PCV valve. And I may do the valve seals. To be fair, it also does smoke a little bit on startup. But that's only if I take it for a longer drive and then park it for the night. So that I'm fairly certain is valve seals. But the sludge issue is most likely PCV valve.
I would recommend valvoline restore and protect for oil, pretty new product but a lot of good reviews from it to clean sludge
Obviously did not watch far enough into the video to see u are using restore and protect lmao
I bought a 03 Tahoe and had oil pressure issues change the oil pressure sensor it was back to normal for a month or two and started having this same issue now i know what to try next n im almost positive this is my issue as well
awesome video
I recently did an engine swap (coincidentally an l33 like this seirra) in my 04 tahoe and forgot to lube the oring. Less then 2k miles and have dreaded symptoms of a pinched one. Lets hope swapping it out fixes it.
My 2004 5.3 Vortec Engine Gets An Engine Flush Every 75,000 Miles By Removing A Quart Of Oil & Replacing It With A Quart Of Valvoline Synthetic Transmission Fluid & This Is Done About 250 - 500 Miles Prior To The Next Complete Oil Change
Wow'Za It Gets That Pep When You Step Right Back In Your Engine Performance
Transmission Fluid Has Unbelievable Cleaning Properties & You Loose No Significant Oil Viscosity For That Short Span Just Before You Do The Complete Oil Change
I Have Seen That New Valvoline Oil & It Works From The Little On You- Tube Vlog Reports So Far 👍
good stuff
Nice job
Engine flush and fill, drive and repeat several times. Well done, wins like this make it all worth while.
Time for some valvoline restore and protect
My 2006 avalanche with 220k miles has had an occasional lifter tick for the past 10k miles. Replaced my pickup tube o ring and the tick went away and my pressure sits at 40 warm idle instead of the previous 20-30
Wait until you do your first oil change. You’re gonna be surprised. Some people even change their filter at like 500 miles to be safe because there’s so many chunks come out
So, how difficult was it to remove the oil pan? How much stuff did you actually have to remove to get it out??
Removed the skid plates, unbolted the passenger axle flange and two passenger diff to frame bolts. Removed the lower driver side differential to frame bolt and pryed the diff down for clearance. Loosened the starter, removed the two plastic flywheel covers on both rear sides of the pan. Unbolted the wiring harness from the front of the pan, then unbolted the pan from the engine and the two 15mm bolts into the back of the pan that go through the bell housing.
@lsxmatt About how long did it take? Just to get access. That seems like the most time-consuming part of this fix.
@@glenhalstead2301 took me about 3 hours with making the video for the whole repair.
Did this job last year to my 03 avalanche with 184k and now my 04 Tahoe is due for this at 131k just to get it out of the way.
Now you can try the valvoline restore and protect
The o-ring has to match the tube end. Can’t just use one o-ring for every tube. 👍
You might check/change the oil filter at 1000 mile intervals.
That Valvoline Restore and Protect is pretty legit. Check out the videos from Lake Speed Jr. has done on it.
Bought a used 2006 hd with a 6.0 only had 82k on it, when I pulled it apart it looked exactly like that with sludge, even in valve covers
Use diesel fuel for a cleaner, works great for baked on engine oil👍🏼
What would cause it to lose oil pressure as it warms up? I have an '06 envoy Denali, I had the rear main seal done awhile back and replaced the pressure sensor and screen filter. It stays at 40 cold then drops. It'll go back up to 40 and slightly above with rpm
The oil gets thinner when it's hot.
@timothycochran9446 I'm well aware of that. That's not the issue.
So it’s true you can lowere one side of the diff? Which side?
Passenger side
mine hovers right above zero on cold starts and gets to about 20psi at 1500rpm when warm... i think its time for a new o ring. And maybe some new cam and main bearings lol
This is great and all but when you gonna rage against rust again?! Lol just kidding love this too
Working on the next video now, you’ll probably see that before another video here.
@lsxmatt awesome dude love it all
Sludge Puppy!
A little diesel will clean out that oil pan and leave it shining like new
Im wondering if there is where the oil leak on my 03 tahoe 5.3 is coming from. I thought it was the dipstick, but after replacing it, i still lose about a tablespoon of oil every time I park. Its also happening on the passenger side.
When I put a AT-203 in, it will stop for about a week. So where ever it is, it has something to do with something rubber.
Any suggestions anyone?
If the back of the pan is wet it’s more than likely the rear main seal. Theres a little metal inspection cover you can pop off the bell housing and look inside. Look for oil at the bottom of the seal.
You can check the crankshaft position sensor aswell. More than likely it’s the rear cover gasket though.
My TBSS says 40 psi even if you unplug the sensor 😅
Idk why that o ring isn’t the first thing replaced when these guys get junk yard ls motors
Run an oil change using diesel oil, it’ll clean up that garbage.
A failure that would never happen on a good old small block Chevy. I don't understand why people think that the LS pile of garbage is better than the SBC.
Use havoline lifelong. Get in from Walmart online and it comes in a 6 quart box.
Now I want to see an engine flush on that sludgy thing. Geez.
You run (idle) some diesel thru the engine. There are plenty of YT vids on it.
oven cleaner works great, and cheap from dollar store
😂😂😂