I have seen that exact fan all over the place when looking for explosion proof" fans so that rattle can and liquor paint fumes would not be an issue. So I am glad to see someone use it in a DIY spray booth build.
Not sure why you don't have more likes/views. I can definitely side with you on building somethings that's more than overkill for this. I've been wanting to get into lacquers, worried about family, etc. You're a hero for putting in the time, research for all the materials/instructions necessary for this awesome project. Definitely going to be building this when I've got the dedicated space for it. This is amazing.
"hours of research"....gawd, that's me...I build ukuleles and guitars and spray lacquer...my previous "paint booth" was a carport cover...as I am upgrading to a totally indoor space...(what a thought!)...I have been researching the past few days and came up with the same unit!!! Thanks for the confirmation.
Np man, yeah I think it will work great for that purpose, like I said I’ve seen people using the 12 in version for car spray booths, I’d imagine the size of the spray gun you use for ukuleles would be more than covered with the 10in.
Thanks for making this video!! I just got mine done and it works perfectly! I got my fan directly from vevor for $122 and the hose for $34. I made a vacuum chamber on the back of my booth and it pulls nicely.
Use the blue pre filter stuff in front of you're ac filter to prolong it and keep it from getting clogged. I use lacquer and it clogs those ac filters super quick wihtout the pre filter.
Great video and through this I have just made my own …works a treat except I used a 8 in explosion proof extractor which I connected direct to the back of the booth with the hose straight out the window …inside I used a Fiberglass Panel filter 2 inches thick …I now don’t get any over spray in the room ….thanks for the idea…
That’s great! Glad I was able to inspire your setup. Yeah I think having the fan directly connected to the booth is definitely the way to go, I just didn’t want to take up more room in my garage by having it pull it out more in the middle of the space to accommodate the direct setup but I plan on doing that way when I get a larger workshop. The fiberglass filter is probably a better idea too as I do see some pigment escaping the filter and collecting on my window screen. I assume the added thickness doesn’t impede the airflow too much ?
Nice job. I made my spray booth 15 years ago but at that time I was pretty green to air brushing. I used two blower units that used a squirrel cage and with external motors to eliminated that explosion thing. Personally, if you get to that point you've got some real problems in your painting technique. Anyway, I know I'm 2 years late but figured I give you a thumbs up in your effort. I've seen some pretty bad DIYers out there that are truly unsafe. If your still around it be cool if you had an update. Interested in your Fan system and how it's held up. Just got one the other day for another paint booth I'm doing. 🖖
Great job, thanks for this! A really comprehensive build. I did have a "gulp" moment when I saw the price of the fan unit, but then realised that the combined cost of all the parts is still a lot less than buying a ready-made booth of a similar spec. In fact for a CFM of that magnitude, and explosion/fire-proof, it would cost (according to my research, at least) thousands, for a store-bought unit. Just thinking laterally, I often wonder if it would be easier (definitely cheaper) to have a regular house fan blowing in your back, out of an open window in front of you. Perhaps this would disrupt the airbrushing too much. And obviously you'd miss the fun of building something like this. And only do-able if you have an open window with a comfortable temperature outside. Hmm, am I talking myself out of my own idea? :)
Thanks dude. Yeah it’s a bit expensive but it works well plus all the features you mentioned. You could just use like a $20 box fan, they move a lot of air but I don’t know if that would catch fire eventually from the lacquer fumes blowing over an exposed electric motor, it’s a lot harder to made a closed system connected to ducting, just having it face out a window doesn’t guarantee all the overspray/fumes will be evacuated. It’s definitely better than nothing or even most cheaper booth solutions though. Like I said I wanted overkill because I have a young child so I didn’t want any of that stuff hanging around in the room.
I get your concern for your child’s health. Cool video!. The volume of the fan is really overkill for me and I paint larger parts (gun parts) My booth is hand made but I use suction from my shopvac tube in an old sound gear rack box. It pulls enough to drag of fumes and excess but doesn’t suck paint to it. Works great!
That’s pretty cool, are you using paint or like cerakote type stuff? That something I wouldn’t mind getting into, see a lot of people do cool stuff with stencils and such on firearms. Yeah it’s definitely overkill but that’s what I was going for, though I can bet that the fan is probably not as loud as a shop vac, or at least a less annoying noise. Shop vacs have a high pitched whine where as the fan is more of a low pitched whir. I’m also able to run it for hours at a time, not sure if a shop vac would overheat running that long, then again I never tried. Old amp rack is a pretty good idea, you used like the portable create type?
I have a problem with over researching every item before choosing the right one to buy my self hahah some times many days of searching /watching /reading
Thanks! It would work great for an indoor setup. I just don’t paint indoors because I have a toddler, and I have a return register to the hvac system in my man cave, otherwise I definitely would be using it indoors.
You might consider adding a louvered baffle in front of the filter to catch as much of the overspray as possible before it gets to the filter, which will make the filter last longer. The idea is that the baffle catches a bunch of the overspray as it is drawn towards the filter, and whatever it misses gets sucked in to the filter itself. Great video!
Great video 👍🏾 May I ask why you chose to use a coupler and a different hose for the back side of the fan instead of the same flexible pvc hose with the drawstring ? Thanks
Just because it was cheaper honestly. The only reason I used the pvc one was because it has the hood with the drawstring thing to fit over the fan flared flange. The backside is just a straight connection so I used that cheaper one.
Looks good, this exactly what I've been thinking of doing, this video should help a lot. Did you use a flange on the back of the box where the pvc duct connects too? I see you built an enclosure back there.
I'm getting 2 of those from harbor freight and make a dual fan. I paint a lot and need the extra flow and i thought It would be worth it to have 2 instead buying the big Paasche which run for $1300 plus ship. this set up would be about $300. let see. Thanks for this video.
Hey I'm updating my booth with your idea. But I was wondering if the hose is way to long . Do you think I can cut it shorter to improve the flow or use what I cut off for the exhaust side ? .
I purchased the same fan and am having the same issue with hooking up to a 10" metal take off. I also purchase vinyl duct 10" with the bell on the end and I can see how it will fit over the intake side. I've tried using the opposite end of the hose to connect to my 10" metal take off and it won't fit. Am I going to have to bend in the crimped in to make it work? I also noticed that your orange duct seems to be shorter than mine. Did you cut yours off? My main concern is adapting to the 10" take off on my spray booth. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Yes, I originally removed the metal ring from the end of the vinyl duct which gives you a bit more stretch, bending the take off edges in a little bit helps too but you kind of just have to muscle it on there and then I used duct tape around the take off just to give it some rigidity from backing off. I did end up cutting about 3 feet or so of the vinyl hose off as I didn't like the unnecessary looping dead space for optimal flow , being that the window I exhaust out of is right behind my booth.
That depends , yes at some number of CFM I’m sure it would completely divert the paint from the brush tip into the vortex like a paint black hole of sorts, but this fan’s CFM volume is no where near that level. I have no issue laying down paint on whatever medium, it is the same as before I was using this fan, only when I’m spraying full blast, like when priming, I don’t get a big cloud of overspray building. And I usually only spray around 20psi, less for metallics.
Have you ever checked air speed in the booth/worry about deflecting the paint cone especially at low PSI? Or worry about paint drying too fast in the booth? Without the filter you've got be flowing over 300fpm, not sure how much the filter dampens that... But I've read elsewhere the ideal air flow speed is more like 100 cfm
I’ve never checked the airspeed but I can say for sure there is no deflection of the cone and I typically spray between 10 and 20 psi depending on the paint. My coats go down wet, there is no dry atomization or dusting or anything like that(I believe that’s usually a symptom of spraying at too high of a pressure, I’ve never heard of it happening from too strong of an exhaust, but I suppose it’s possible). That being said my booth is pretty large, 2h x 3w x 2d (feet) off the top of my head. I would assume in a smaller space like the size the size of the average hobby paint booth, it you might have an issue with it being too strong.
@@nickdom4406 thank you so much for the earnest reply! That's good to hear as I'm currently upgrading my own spray booth with an inline exhaust extending to an external vent in another room and debating between a 390 and a 740 CFM fan... Leaning toward the larger fan just to be on the safe side. My booth is less than 3.5ft^3 but I'm also pulling through about 40 total feet of that collapsible ducting...
Would it be fine if I position the fan 2-3x further than where you've placed it? Will there be a significant decrease in air flow? I plan to get the 12" fan to hopefully compensate for it. I just have really sensitive hearing and the further it is, the better.
I would imagine the further away it is, the more diminished the suction would be at the booth. The position I have it definitely provides more than I need but I wouldn’t be able to say for sure that 2-3x further would be the same. I was thinking maybe enclosing it to muffle the sound but I’m not sure if that would cause it to overheat not being open to air.
@@nickdom4406 I see, thank you so much for the information and fast reply. I think I'll have to resort to creating a sound isolation box and put in the air compressor there as well to make the most out of it.
Not sure the rating, just a regular hvac filter you’d find at a home improvement store. The filter is more so just to catch the majority of pigment in the overspray, I don’t think it really matters much unless you’re concerned about pigment being blown out the other side of the exhaust.
maybe I missed it but is there any reason why you didn't have the fan placed directly at the back of the booth instead of using a hose to the fan and a hose out of the fan?
Yeah, I did mention why, that would be a better way to set it up, but for the way I have mine configured, it would have forced me to move my work area/table more toward the middle of my garage, which I didn’t want to do, so by having the hose I’m able to keep it more flush to the wall. If your space allows, I would definitely do the fan directly to your booth.
What size is the booth overall? All my paint clouds come from priming too. I completely covered my craft room in overspray. People keep saying the Pace booth totally removes any paint particles that would cause overspray, but with a little over 100 cfm, that’s not as nearly as powerful as the fan you’re using.
Mines about 3x3x2ft. I can't really speak of pace, I've never used one. That actually looks like the booth itsagunpla uses. They look nice and the concept seems legit of having a top evacuated booth but 100cfm seems pretty low. Air volume is air volume, if you're not evacuating more than the volume that the overspray is suspended in at any given time it's going to escape and settle elsewhere, that's just the physics of it. That booth might be good for minis or small kits, but I wouldn't trust it if you're doing larger kits or pieces, especially for priming. I certainly wouldn't trust it with anything other than acrylics.
Just using the cheap hvac type filters from Lowe’s to catch the majority of the more solid stuff. I don’t think you want to use anything crazy like a hepa filter or something restrictive like that because it puts more strain on the fan fighting air through the filter and it would have less pulling force in the booth. The main reason of the filter (IMO) is to limit gunking the fan. Obviously that also depends on where your exhaust is and what’s on the other side of the exhaust.
@@nickdom4406 Thanks! With a fan as powerful as yours, to save money, you could probably use a cheap large particle pre-filter to catch the initial overspray, followed by a more expensive fine mesh filter to minimize paint gunking the fan. And still get plenty of air suction!
Yeah I might do something like that in future, this was supposed to be a temporary booth, I want to make another one with metal sheeting or perhaps take up welding and weld one together and I’ll do like some kind of layered offset slats or matrix of some kind to catch initial overspray before the filter.
hello, i want to start airbrushing. But my concern are the fumes. So i want to build a spray booth. Are the water based acrylics like mr hobby color paints dangerous for explosion too? And if they aren are they good for painting 1:18 scale modelcars? Or why are you using alcohol based paints? Are they better or turn out nicer? Thank you!
The fumes you refer to are VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) which are usually associated with enamel, lacquer and urethane based paints (and I’m sure there’s others as well). VOC are usually flammable, toxic, and carcinogenic. Water based acrylics usually do not contain VOCs, not flammable and non toxic, for those reasons, are generally considered much safer to use. The down side is that they tend not to adhere as well or be as strong as lacquer based paints. Plenty of people in the modeling community use acrylics just fine, I’d just advise to not skimp out on the prep work to prevent your paint from scratching/chipping off, especially on articulated pieces. And FYI , I’d still wear a respirator if using an airbrush, acrylic particles may be “non-toxic” but would still cause inflammation in your lung and sinus tissues and chronic exposure could cause any number of issues.
@@nickdom4406 hi, thanks for the answer. Ok so theres no way around if i want to have nice outcome with not so much preparation? Right? Then i gues the airbrush thing is dead subject for me. I have to wait till its warm outside again. So i can spray with can.
I mean you can try it out on a smaller build and see how it comes out. Prep isn’t too bad, you should be able to get away with washing or wiping down with isopropyl alcohol and a light surface sanding just to give the point something to hold on to. Many people don’t do all that and it turns out ok. Proper prep just minimized the risk of chipping on articulated parts or when your masking, it’s not like a 100% chance it will get messed up if you don’t prep, just a higher chance.
@@nickdom4406 ok, so are there waterbased gloss black paints for airbrushing? Its a hassle, because i dont have the equipment and i dont want to spend about 200 or more and then realize that it isnt working out.
So I assume you don't smell anything while painting ? I am looking to build or buy a high end booth cause I have to spray in my home so I need something that pulls everything out. It's just me here so no others to worry about but I still want to be safe and healthy with it.
I do not, I’ve shortly tested it unmasked and I can’t smell anything. I can’t guarantee every molecule is pulled out but I am quite certain is far superior to most other hobby solutions out there.
Not sure honestly and it does not mention anything about it in the product description, probably a question for the manufacturer. The cable only has pos, neg and ground, so there’s definitely not a speed signal option, but might work with the voltage regulating kind of controller, but not sure if that could potentially cause damage.
That's a cool build... but an explosion proof fan is overkill for what you're doing: an "Air Over" electric motor exhaust fan would have done the same job for less.
Thanks dude. Yeah, I mean it’s a nearly 2k cfm fan for painting tiny mechas and such, it was overkill either way lol, but that was what I going for. I’ve seen people using the 12 inch model in like car spray booths. My main draw to this fan was basically the amount of air it moves, I wanted it to be overkill for peace of mind, not just for overspray in my garage, but mostly for my kids safety from any exposure whatsoever. I don’t think that level of airbrushing would cause an “explosion” per se, but lacquer, especially the hardware store grade pure lacquer thinner I used to clean my brush between colors could certainly ignite a flame if there’s a spark, so there’s that peace of mind granted the low probability.
@@misterlyle. sorry friend... YT keeps auto deleting my links... Google "fully enclosed Air-over electric fan motor." Grainger is one supplier I go to.
@@Visigoth_ Thanks for your reply! (Sometimes I will add a link as a reply to my own comment. That way, if the link drops the main comment will stay.) I have found Grainger (a dotcom site); looks like they have lots of fan motors. I'll call them on Monday.
Any decent air over exhaust fan will cost way more than this one and not be nearly as versatile. I bought mine for $145.00 and bought a speed controller for $20. Now I can dial it down for my small spray booth or use it separately if I'm spraying large projects in the garage, want to use it as a cooling fan, quickly evacuate odors, smoke, etc. For the price, you can't beat this fan.
do you think i can get away with a prebuilt spray booth from amazon? I am brand new to painting and airbrushing and will mostly be using gaia color paints so part of me is worried about potential fire.
It depends where and what you’re spraying. I would say like cheaper Amazon prebuilts are ok for acrylic, water based paints(non toxic), but if you’re using lacquers, I’d get something more substantial. I know it’s easy to be lax cause it’s just model paint, but they really are very toxic, some brands more than others and should really be handled as such, ie adequate ventilation and a proper respirator. Long term exposure will mess up your lungs in some way.
@@nickdom4406 thanks yeah i plan on doing it in my garage similar to you in this video, i will purchase a respirator eventually, since it is hard finding once since covid (and won't paint until i do) , but my main concern is not causing a fire with my lacquer paints. I plan on using only Gaia notes paints and thinners basically, which i understand to be highly flammable. This is the booth I am considering buying www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMUH8L6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1
Gaia is one of the worst in terms of toxicity, literally cancer in a bottle lol. I use Gaia and mr color mostly too. That one looks ok, the fan is only 141 cfm, I don’t think it would be adequate but I never used it so I can’t say for sure. The fans I was using before were 62 cfm a piece, so it should have equated to 240 cfm all together and they were def not good enough, though it might work better as a single fan.
@@nickdom4406 thanks i found a different one with more air flow due to having 2 fans. It's just hard to find reviews on it because it seems fairly new. The airflow is listed as 9m/3 though, is that adequate enough for gaia paints? Thanks again www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KGNGWR7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1
It should be decent, the fan sounds a lot stronger than the other one you posted, and 9 cubic meters per min is around 318 cfm. I never used it so I couldn’t tell you it was adequate per se, but definitely a better option out of the two. Probably fine for regular spraying, the thing that usually got me was priming. I usually use gaia nazca and evo, that’s when I’d get the most overspray just because I usually have it coming out full blast and priming most of the kit at the same time.
You certainly could. I didn’t because It would be a little more difficult to get an air aight seal without the flared flange but doable. I suppose if you found a hose clamp large enough to fit over the outer diameter of the fan, it would work great.
Technically, the concentration of vapors from paint NEVER reaches, or even comes close to the concentration needed for combustion (the flash point). This business of saying that you need an explosion proof fan with solvent paints is simply urban legend and not based on science. That said, that's quite an exhaust fan! Note however that anyone who is familiar with chemical fume hoods and laboratory safety will also tell you that higher face velocities (the speed of air moving into the hood) are not conducive to higher safety. In fact, high face velocities can lead to decreased safety, due to the creation of powerful eddies that you create standing in front of the booth, which suck the overspray back at you.
From what I can tell this isn’t NEMA Class 1 Div 1 explosion proof so be careful. Id also bet that since it probably has some type of explosion proof certification, they don’t add the plug because it would be “recommended” that you also use an explosion proof rated plug. I work with EXP electrical equipment and if something with power is going into a required class 1 Div 1 area, everything has to have that rating. The conduit, the box, the plugs, etc. I’d assume they just ship the fan without the plug for liability purposes.
Ah , I didn’t realize they made explosion proof plugs too, but I guess that makes sense if you’re doing something that can possibly fill a space with a a flammable substance. Luckily in my case the vapor doesn’t make it past the booth
@@sunday_funday7765 Nope, my first was an E46 M3. That was the most fun car I've ever owned. Even restoring it was really fun. Sadly, the F series is nothing like it. I regret selling the M3, but I do plan to get another one to restore whenever I move from my current location and hopefully build a pole barn shop.
Yes but they are wired to a switch, the connection to the lights and the switch that turns them on and off need to be explosion proof as the fan connection is
Right, they are wired to a switch but the switch is outside of the booth and doesnt have a cloud of VOCs running past it. If the fan didn't work well and the room filled up with vapor, that might be a problem.
I mean I can say I drive around not wearing my seatbelt and don’t have any issues. Doesn’t mean it’s a smart thing to do. It’s not an issue until it is. I hope it’s never an issue for you but it’s definitely not something I’d recommend anyone to do… flammable + flame = fire
@@nickdom4406 just don't spray directly into the heater thats all. But i hear ya. You can drive down the road with a seatbelt on and still die also. U can die anytime in a second. I am not gonna freak out and not live. But i know safety is something we all should learn to be better at
I hear ya, we can all do better . I agree you shouldn’t live a sheltered life but stick a fan in the window or something lol. The chances are probably slim of ever igniting but I’ve treated enough severe burns to know I’d never want to deal with that. And you want a class b extinguisher for flammables btw😉🤣
I have seen that exact fan all over the place when looking for explosion proof" fans so that rattle can and liquor paint fumes would not be an issue. So I am glad to see someone use it in a DIY spray booth build.
yeah, I've had it for 3 years and run it hours at a time, still works great.
Not sure why you don't have more likes/views. I can definitely side with you on building somethings that's more than overkill for this. I've been wanting to get into lacquers, worried about family, etc. You're a hero for putting in the time, research for all the materials/instructions necessary for this awesome project. Definitely going to be building this when I've got the dedicated space for it. This is amazing.
"hours of research"....gawd, that's me...I build ukuleles and guitars and spray lacquer...my previous "paint booth" was a carport cover...as I am upgrading to a totally indoor space...(what a thought!)...I have been researching the past few days and came up with the same unit!!! Thanks for the confirmation.
Np man, yeah I think it will work great for that purpose, like I said I’ve seen people using the 12 in version for car spray booths, I’d imagine the size of the spray gun you use for ukuleles would be more than covered with the 10in.
Excellent review and setup tour. You really do make it easy for anyone to follow your exact steps to get this really satisfying fume hood. Thanks!
Thanks for making this video!! I just got mine done and it works perfectly! I got my fan directly from vevor for $122 and the hose for $34. I made a vacuum chamber on the back of my booth and it pulls nicely.
Nice dude, glad it helped, it’s a great setup.
Just bought most of the items listed. I'm excited to set up ventilation for painting.
Awesome! I hope my video was helpful in deciding. It’s a great setup, let me know what you think.
Thanks for posting this, you provided the solutions I was looking for.
Great video dude!..very clean set up! Thanks for going in detail..gave me a good idea on what I need to do!
Np! thanks for the view, let me know how it turns out for you.
I have never seen someone spray a tiny model with that super op fan! very impressive to watch!
rad setup! thanks!
Thanks, hope the video was helpful✌️
Use the blue pre filter stuff in front of you're ac filter to prolong it and keep it from getting clogged. I use lacquer and it clogs those ac filters super quick wihtout the pre filter.
Great video and through this I have just made my own …works a treat except I used a 8 in explosion proof extractor which I connected direct to the back of the booth with the hose straight out the window …inside I used a Fiberglass Panel filter 2 inches thick …I now don’t get any over spray in the room ….thanks for the idea…
That’s great! Glad I was able to inspire your setup. Yeah I think having the fan directly connected to the booth is definitely the way to go, I just didn’t want to take up more room in my garage by having it pull it out more in the middle of the space to accommodate the direct setup but I plan on doing that way when I get a larger workshop. The fiberglass filter is probably a better idea too as I do see some pigment escaping the filter and collecting on my window screen. I assume the added thickness doesn’t impede the airflow too much ?
Nice job. I made my spray booth 15 years ago but at that time I was pretty green to air brushing. I used two blower units that used a squirrel cage and with external motors to eliminated that explosion thing. Personally, if you get to that point you've got some real problems in your painting technique. Anyway, I know I'm 2 years late but figured I give you a thumbs up in your effort. I've seen some pretty bad DIYers out there that are truly unsafe. If your still around it be cool if you had an update. Interested in your Fan system and how it's held up. Just got one the other day for another paint booth I'm doing. 🖖
Awesome video, chill vibe and useful. I'll be using a different fan, a blower from Grainger, but taking notes to copy basically the rest
Thanks! Glad I was able to help
Great job, thanks for this! A really comprehensive build. I did have a "gulp" moment when I saw the price of the fan unit, but then realised that the combined cost of all the parts is still a lot less than buying a ready-made booth of a similar spec. In fact for a CFM of that magnitude, and explosion/fire-proof, it would cost (according to my research, at least) thousands, for a store-bought unit. Just thinking laterally, I often wonder if it would be easier (definitely cheaper) to have a regular house fan blowing in your back, out of an open window in front of you. Perhaps this would disrupt the airbrushing too much. And obviously you'd miss the fun of building something like this. And only do-able if you have an open window with a comfortable temperature outside. Hmm, am I talking myself out of my own idea? :)
Thanks dude. Yeah it’s a bit expensive but it works well plus all the features you mentioned. You could just use like a $20 box fan, they move a lot of air but I don’t know if that would catch fire eventually from the lacquer fumes blowing over an exposed electric motor, it’s a lot harder to made a closed system connected to ducting, just having it face out a window doesn’t guarantee all the overspray/fumes will be evacuated. It’s definitely better than nothing or even most cheaper booth solutions though. Like I said I wanted overkill because I have a young child so I didn’t want any of that stuff hanging around in the room.
Good idea! I copied it and have a monster now too
Thanks. I'm going to take a look into this blower. Those PC fans lol.
NP. It’s pretty awesome, nothing escapes. Lol, I know, it seemed like a good temporary solution...😅 they actually worked decent for a short time.
I get your concern for your child’s health. Cool video!. The volume of the fan is really overkill for me and I paint larger parts (gun parts) My booth is hand made but I use suction from my shopvac tube in an old sound gear rack box. It pulls enough to drag of fumes and excess but doesn’t suck paint to it. Works great!
That’s pretty cool, are you using paint or like cerakote type stuff? That something I wouldn’t mind getting into, see a lot of people do cool stuff with stencils and such on firearms.
Yeah it’s definitely overkill but that’s what I was going for, though I can bet that the fan is probably not as loud as a shop vac, or at least a less annoying noise. Shop vacs have a high pitched whine where as the fan is more of a low pitched whir. I’m also able to run it for hours at a time, not sure if a shop vac would overheat running that long, then again I never tried.
Old amp rack is a pretty good idea, you used like the portable create type?
I have a problem with over researching every item before choosing the right one to buy my self hahah some times many days of searching /watching /reading
Lol yes, research duration is directly correlated to price.
Very cool. That wouldn’t work for me being indoors. But I’m definitely looking at a higher cfm.👍👍
Thanks! It would work great for an indoor setup. I just don’t paint indoors because I have a toddler, and I have a return register to the hvac system in my man cave, otherwise I definitely would be using it indoors.
@@nickdom4406 yea I’m just thinking at 75 decibels that’s a little loud for me. My mother in law lives below us and would be an issue. 👍👍
@@bigchef2112 oh yeah.. I hadn’t considered shared walls or even night time sessions, definitely a sure way up a certain creek without a paddle 😅
You might consider adding a louvered baffle in front of the filter to catch as much of the overspray as possible before it gets to the filter, which will make the filter last longer. The idea is that the baffle catches a bunch of the overspray as it is drawn towards the filter, and whatever it misses gets sucked in to the filter itself. Great video!
Thanks for the tip! Yeah I plan to make a baffle when I make a nicer iteration of the booth, like offset slats of wood or something similar.
Thanks!
Great video 👍🏾 May I ask why you chose to use a coupler and a different hose for the back side of the fan instead of the same flexible pvc hose with the drawstring ? Thanks
Just because it was cheaper honestly. The only reason I used the pvc one was because it has the hood with the drawstring thing to fit over the fan flared flange. The backside is just a straight connection so I used that cheaper one.
Looks good, this exactly what I've been thinking of doing, this video should help a lot. Did you use a flange on the back of the box where the pvc duct connects too? I see you built an enclosure back there.
Yes, I removed that enclosure and used a lipped flange to connect the hose on the back of the booth.
@@nickdom4406 thanks 👍
great video. any long term issues with the fan working?
Nope, I run it for hours without issue thus far.
I'm getting 2 of those from harbor freight and make a dual fan. I paint a lot and need the extra flow and i thought It would be worth it to have 2 instead buying the big Paasche which run for $1300 plus ship. this set up would be about $300. let see.
Thanks for this video.
Hi there amazing video
How is the 12 inch duct attached to the back of the spray booth? Thanks!
Thanks! It’s a 10in flanged duct, so I just used screws through the flange to secure it to the booth, I believe I have it linked in the description.
Hey I'm updating my booth with your idea. But I was wondering if the hose is way to long . Do you think I can cut it shorter to improve the flow or use what I cut off for the exhaust side ? .
yes, I cut mine down on both sides leaving a little extra just for some slack but the shorter the run, the better your flow will be.
I purchased the same fan and am having the same issue with hooking up to a 10" metal take off. I also purchase vinyl duct 10" with the bell on the end and I can see how it will fit over the intake side. I've tried using the opposite end of the hose to connect to my 10" metal take off and it won't fit. Am I going to have to bend in the crimped in to make it work? I also noticed that your orange duct seems to be shorter than mine. Did you cut yours off? My main concern is adapting to the 10" take off on my spray booth. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Yes, I originally removed the metal ring from the end of the vinyl duct which gives you a bit more stretch, bending the take off edges in a little bit helps too but you kind of just have to muscle it on there and then I used duct tape around the take off just to give it some rigidity from backing off. I did end up cutting about 3 feet or so of the vinyl hose off as I didn't like the unnecessary looping dead space for optimal flow , being that the window I exhaust out of is right behind my booth.
Wouldn't excessive CFM draw paint away from the part you are spraying?
That depends , yes at some number of CFM I’m sure it would completely divert the paint from the brush tip into the vortex like a paint black hole of sorts, but this fan’s CFM volume is no where near that level. I have no issue laying down paint on whatever medium, it is the same as before I was using this fan, only when I’m spraying full blast, like when priming, I don’t get a big cloud of overspray building. And I usually only spray around 20psi, less for metallics.
Have you ever checked air speed in the booth/worry about deflecting the paint cone especially at low PSI? Or worry about paint drying too fast in the booth? Without the filter you've got be flowing over 300fpm, not sure how much the filter dampens that... But I've read elsewhere the ideal air flow speed is more like 100 cfm
I’ve never checked the airspeed but I can say for sure there is no deflection of the cone and I typically spray between 10 and 20 psi depending on the paint. My coats go down wet, there is no dry atomization or dusting or anything like that(I believe that’s usually a symptom of spraying at too high of a pressure, I’ve never heard of it happening from too strong of an exhaust, but I suppose it’s possible). That being said my booth is pretty large, 2h x 3w x 2d (feet) off the top of my head. I would assume in a smaller space like the size the size of the average hobby paint booth, it you might have an issue with it being too strong.
@@nickdom4406 thank you so much for the earnest reply! That's good to hear as I'm currently upgrading my own spray booth with an inline exhaust extending to an external vent in another room and debating between a 390 and a 740 CFM fan... Leaning toward the larger fan just to be on the safe side. My booth is less than 3.5ft^3 but I'm also pulling through about 40 total feet of that collapsible ducting...
Would it be fine if I position the fan 2-3x further than where you've placed it? Will there be a significant decrease in air flow? I plan to get the 12" fan to hopefully compensate for it. I just have really sensitive hearing and the further it is, the better.
I would imagine the further away it is, the more diminished the suction would be at the booth. The position I have it definitely provides more than I need but I wouldn’t be able to say for sure that 2-3x further would be the same. I was thinking maybe enclosing it to muffle the sound but I’m not sure if that would cause it to overheat not being open to air.
@@nickdom4406 I see, thank you so much for the information and fast reply. I think I'll have to resort to creating a sound isolation box and put in the air compressor there as well to make the most out of it.
Congratulations,please can you tell me about the kind of filter,is it a class F7-F9 ?Thanks !
Not sure the rating, just a regular hvac filter you’d find at a home improvement store. The filter is more so just to catch the majority of pigment in the overspray, I don’t think it really matters much unless you’re concerned about pigment being blown out the other side of the exhaust.
@@nickdom4406 thancks very much Nick !
maybe I missed it but is there any reason why you didn't have the fan placed directly at the back of the booth instead of using a hose to the fan and a hose out of the fan?
Yeah, I did mention why, that would be a better way to set it up, but for the way I have mine configured, it would have forced me to move my work area/table more toward the middle of my garage, which I didn’t want to do, so by having the hose I’m able to keep it more flush to the wall. If your space allows, I would definitely do the fan directly to your booth.
What size is the booth overall? All my paint clouds come from priming too. I completely covered my craft room in overspray. People keep saying the Pace booth totally removes any paint particles that would cause overspray, but with a little over 100 cfm, that’s not as nearly as powerful as the fan you’re using.
Mines about 3x3x2ft. I can't really speak of pace, I've never used one. That actually looks like the booth itsagunpla uses. They look nice and the concept seems legit of having a top evacuated booth but 100cfm seems pretty low. Air volume is air volume, if you're not evacuating more than the volume that the overspray is suspended in at any given time it's going to escape and settle elsewhere, that's just the physics of it. That booth might be good for minis or small kits, but I wouldn't trust it if you're doing larger kits or pieces, especially for priming. I certainly wouldn't trust it with anything other than acrylics.
@@nickdom4406thank you so much!
Are you using a different filter at this point? What were you recommended to use instead of those pleaded oven filters?
Just using the cheap hvac type filters from Lowe’s to catch the majority of the more solid stuff. I don’t think you want to use anything crazy like a hepa filter or something restrictive like that because it puts more strain on the fan fighting air through the filter and it would have less pulling force in the booth. The main reason of the filter (IMO) is to limit gunking the fan. Obviously that also depends on where your exhaust is and what’s on the other side of the exhaust.
@@nickdom4406 Thanks! With a fan as powerful as yours, to save money, you could probably use a cheap large particle pre-filter to catch the initial overspray, followed by a more expensive fine mesh filter to minimize paint gunking the fan. And still get plenty of air suction!
Yeah I might do something like that in future, this was supposed to be a temporary booth, I want to make another one with metal sheeting or perhaps take up welding and weld one together and I’ll do like some kind of layered offset slats or matrix of some kind to catch initial overspray before the filter.
do you have the stl file for your airbrush holder on your booth wall? it looks nice is it for an iwata? thanks
I do, I designed that a while ago in fusion360, will try to find the file and post somewhere
Thanks!
hello, i want to start airbrushing. But my concern are the fumes. So i want to build a spray booth.
Are the water based acrylics like mr hobby color paints dangerous for explosion too? And if they aren are they good for painting 1:18 scale modelcars?
Or why are you using alcohol based paints? Are they better or turn out nicer?
Thank you!
The fumes you refer to are VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) which are usually associated with enamel, lacquer and urethane based paints (and I’m sure there’s others as well). VOC are usually flammable, toxic, and carcinogenic.
Water based acrylics usually do not contain VOCs, not flammable and non toxic, for those reasons, are generally considered much safer to use. The down side is that they tend not to adhere as well or be as strong as lacquer based paints. Plenty of people in the modeling community use acrylics just fine, I’d just advise to not skimp out on the prep work to prevent your paint from scratching/chipping off, especially on articulated pieces.
And FYI , I’d still wear a respirator if using an airbrush, acrylic particles may be “non-toxic” but would still cause inflammation in your lung and sinus tissues and chronic exposure could cause any number of issues.
@@nickdom4406 hi, thanks for the answer. Ok so theres no way around if i want to have nice outcome with not so much preparation? Right? Then i gues the airbrush thing is dead subject for me. I have to wait till its warm outside again. So i can spray with can.
I mean you can try it out on a smaller build and see how it comes out. Prep isn’t too bad, you should be able to get away with washing or wiping down with isopropyl alcohol and a light surface sanding just to give the point something to hold on to. Many people don’t do all that and it turns out ok. Proper prep just minimized the risk of chipping on articulated parts or when your masking, it’s not like a 100% chance it will get messed up if you don’t prep, just a higher chance.
@@nickdom4406 ok, so are there waterbased gloss black paints for airbrushing?
Its a hassle, because i dont have the equipment and i dont want to spend about 200 or more and then realize that it isnt working out.
i see the MANDO helmet!!
Haha yeah, a Paz Vizsla helmet I 3D printed and was messing with.
So I assume you don't smell anything while painting ? I am looking to build or buy a high end booth cause I have to spray in my home so I need something that pulls everything out. It's just me here so no others to worry about but I still want to be safe and healthy with it.
I do not, I’ve shortly tested it unmasked and I can’t smell anything. I can’t guarantee every molecule is pulled out but I am quite certain is far superior to most other hobby solutions out there.
Can you add a variable soeed controller on this fan?
Not sure honestly and it does not mention anything about it in the product description, probably a question for the manufacturer. The cable only has pos, neg and ground, so there’s definitely not a speed signal option, but might work with the voltage regulating kind of controller, but not sure if that could potentially cause damage.
Yes, I added one to mine for only $20
@@markolmstead4709 can you send a link for the speed controller? Thank you
All of you are lucky having possibility to put the hose out of a window. I dont have and search a good solution with filters
That's a cool build... but an explosion proof fan is overkill for what you're doing: an "Air Over" electric motor exhaust fan would have done the same job for less.
Thanks dude. Yeah, I mean it’s a nearly 2k cfm fan for painting tiny mechas and such, it was overkill either way lol, but that was what I going for. I’ve seen people using the 12 inch model in like car spray booths. My main draw to this fan was basically the amount of air it moves, I wanted it to be overkill for peace of mind, not just for overspray in my garage, but mostly for my kids safety from any exposure whatsoever. I don’t think that level of airbrushing would cause an “explosion” per se, but lacquer, especially the hardware store grade pure lacquer thinner I used to clean my brush between colors could certainly ignite a flame if there’s a spark, so there’s that peace of mind granted the low probability.
Can you suggest a source for an "Air Over" exhaust fan?
@@misterlyle. sorry friend... YT keeps auto deleting my links...
Google "fully enclosed Air-over electric fan motor." Grainger is one supplier I go to.
@@Visigoth_ Thanks for your reply! (Sometimes I will add a link as a reply to my own comment. That way, if the link drops the main comment will stay.) I have found Grainger (a dotcom site); looks like they have lots of fan motors. I'll call them on Monday.
Any decent air over exhaust fan will cost way more than this one and not be nearly as versatile. I bought mine for $145.00 and bought a speed controller for $20. Now I can dial it down for my small spray booth or use it separately if I'm spraying large projects in the garage, want to use it as a cooling fan, quickly evacuate odors, smoke, etc. For the price, you can't beat this fan.
do you think i can get away with a prebuilt spray booth from amazon? I am brand new to painting and airbrushing and will mostly be using gaia color paints so part of me is worried about potential fire.
It depends where and what you’re spraying. I would say like cheaper Amazon prebuilts are ok for acrylic, water based paints(non toxic), but if you’re using lacquers, I’d get something more substantial. I know it’s easy to be lax cause it’s just model paint, but they really are very toxic, some brands more than others and should really be handled as such, ie adequate ventilation and a proper respirator. Long term exposure will mess up your lungs in some way.
@@nickdom4406 thanks yeah i plan on doing it in my garage similar to you in this video, i will purchase a respirator eventually, since it is hard finding once since covid (and won't paint until i do) , but my main concern is not causing a fire with my lacquer paints. I plan on using only Gaia notes paints and thinners basically, which i understand to be highly flammable. This is the booth I am considering buying
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMUH8L6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1
Gaia is one of the worst in terms of toxicity, literally cancer in a bottle lol. I use Gaia and mr color mostly too. That one looks ok, the fan is only 141 cfm, I don’t think it would be adequate but I never used it so I can’t say for sure. The fans I was using before were 62 cfm a piece, so it should have equated to 240 cfm all together and they were def not good enough, though it might work better as a single fan.
@@nickdom4406 thanks i found a different one with more air flow due to having 2 fans. It's just hard to find reviews on it because it seems fairly new. The airflow is listed as 9m/3 though, is that adequate enough for gaia paints? Thanks again
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KGNGWR7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1
It should be decent, the fan sounds a lot stronger than the other one you posted, and 9 cubic meters per min is around 318 cfm. I never used it so I couldn’t tell you it was adequate per se, but definitely a better option out of the two. Probably fine for regular spraying, the thing that usually got me was priming. I usually use gaia nazca and evo, that’s when I’d get the most overspray just because I usually have it coming out full blast and priming most of the kit at the same time.
Instead of adding the insert to the back of the machine, why not just get (2) drawstring vent hoses?
You certainly could. I didn’t because It would be a little more difficult to get an air aight seal without the flared flange but doable. I suppose if you found a hose clamp large enough to fit over the outer diameter of the fan, it would work great.
Technically, the concentration of vapors from paint NEVER reaches, or even comes close to the concentration needed for combustion (the flash point). This business of saying that you need an explosion proof fan with solvent paints is simply urban legend and not based on science. That said, that's quite an exhaust fan! Note however that anyone who is familiar with chemical fume hoods and laboratory safety will also tell you that higher face velocities (the speed of air moving into the hood) are not conducive to higher safety. In fact, high face velocities can lead to decreased safety, due to the creation of powerful eddies that you create standing in front of the booth, which suck the overspray back at you.
From what I can tell this isn’t NEMA Class 1 Div 1 explosion proof so be careful. Id also bet that since it probably has some type of explosion proof certification, they don’t add the plug because it would be “recommended” that you also use an explosion proof rated plug.
I work with EXP electrical equipment and if something with power is going into a required class 1 Div 1 area, everything has to have that rating. The conduit, the box, the plugs, etc. I’d assume they just ship the fan without the plug for liability purposes.
Ah , I didn’t realize they made explosion proof plugs too, but I guess that makes sense if you’re doing something that can possibly fill a space with a a flammable substance. Luckily in my case the vapor doesn’t make it past the booth
Did I spot a M6?
M4
@@nickdom4406 Beauty
Yeah it’s an awesome machine, but honestly, unless you’re going over 70/80mph, it’s quite boring. I traded it recently for an 18’ STI
@@nickdom4406 Really? Interesting. Was it your first M car?
@@sunday_funday7765 Nope, my first was an E46 M3. That was the most fun car I've ever owned. Even restoring it was really fun. Sadly, the F series is nothing like it. I regret selling the M3, but I do plan to get another one to restore whenever I move from my current location and hopefully build a pole barn shop.
But is the light in your booth explosion proof…….
lol, yes, they are LED lights
Yes but they are wired to a switch, the connection to the lights and the switch that turns them on and off need to be explosion proof as the fan connection is
Right, they are wired to a switch but the switch is outside of the booth and doesnt have a cloud of VOCs running past it. If the fan didn't work well and the room filled up with vapor, that might be a problem.
I spray laquare airbrush spaz stix next to a kerosene heater and don't have any issues. With no exhast
I mean I can say I drive around not wearing my seatbelt and don’t have any issues. Doesn’t mean it’s a smart thing to do. It’s not an issue until it is.
I hope it’s never an issue for you but it’s definitely not something I’d recommend anyone to do… flammable + flame = fire
@@nickdom4406 water fire extinguisher f it 🤣🤣🤣
@@nickdom4406 just don't spray directly into the heater thats all. But i hear ya. You can drive down the road with a seatbelt on and still die also. U can die anytime in a second. I am not gonna freak out and not live. But i know safety is something we all should learn to be better at
I hear ya, we can all do better . I agree you shouldn’t live a sheltered life but stick a fan in the window or something lol. The chances are probably slim of ever igniting but I’ve treated enough severe burns to know I’d never want to deal with that. And you want a class b extinguisher for flammables btw😉🤣
@@nickdom4406 i agree