ZG Clutch Replacement
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- Опубліковано 21 січ 2020
- This video is the last on a series of videos where I replace the engine on my C10 Concours. After taking the bike on its maiden test ride, I realize the Clutch is not working properly (slipping). After researching I came to understand that it was the star springs, I decide to replace the springs and friction plates.
During the Video I was missing one of the broken tabs. I later found it between the bellypan bracket and engine phewww!
All parts for this project were purchased by me through Murphskits.com
![6 Annoying Dirt Bike Bad Clutch Symptoms [Simple Fixes]](/img/n.gif)
Well, it was just as you suspected, broken tabs laying in there with your clutch plates! You were smart to replace all the pressure plates. Makes me wonder about the 2002 Im getting ready to buy with 52k on it and no mention of that work ever having been done. Putting a magnet on the drain plug is a great idea. I really appreciate your videos and your friendly can do attitude. Very helpful and encouraging! Thank you and cheers from Indiana!
Extremely helpful and getting the kit from murphs kits saved me lots of money, what ended up causing my slip was a piece of star spring that got between the clutch disks and the clutch spring basket preventing clutch from fully engaging
Superb video. You know your stuff. Thank you for doing the work to make this video for everyone who owns a ZG. I, too, took my ZG for it's maiden ride and coming home the clutch started slipping. Your video will make the repair so much easier. I owe you one, buddy! For now, thank you kindly.
Great video, very complete and easy to follow. Currently replacing friction plates, steel plates, 2 leaf springs, 36mm retaining nut, 6 springs and clutch basket end plate (cracked mine due to ID10T issue, accidentally pressing clutch lever sometime with clutch removed and pushed the piston way out), and of course a new cover gasket.
Two "stars ", under that nut???
I have a 1986 zg 1000, this video is exactly what happened to me the other day! The bump on the clutch describes perfectly my symptom.
I was stressed to find the star spring kit! Thanks for the info!
Getting ready to replace the clutch on my 52K 2004 c-10. Very informative. Thank you
Excellent, it's night and day.
Very well done. I've only got 21K on my Connie, and clutch seems solid, but anything can happen. Very informative Bob.
Thanks much appreciated.
You my friend are ZG certified
Nice one.
he doesn't know a bolt from a nut and he changes the clutch......wonders will never cease. 🙂
And it runs like a top. Go figure
Its called preventative maintenance and I think it was a great idea as long as he was in there digging out broken parts!
Did you install "TWO", stars under that central nut.You mention" that's the recomendation"(Two of them???).Please, i have the same problem, broken parts on the star.Thank you
In 1986 there was a single star. Kawasaki for 1987 and on, used 2 stars. I installed 2 stars on mine. Clutch worked better than new
I bought an after market clutch for for my Connie. 96 in lbs is way too much for this kit. The kit did not come with specs, so I've contacted the seller. Anyone have experience with this?
When you put the gasket back on did you put the black sealant on both sides or just one side of the gasket? Seems like it should be both but I wanted to verify. My kit from Murph’s is supposed to arrive in the mail today!
Assuming you did a good job removing the old gasket, i put a see-through smear on both the case and the cover keeping in mind the oil pass through. That gives the gasket some sticktion when aligning the case. When appling the gasket, i put two of the top bolts through the cover and hung the gasket on the cover, makes aligning everything sooo much easier. Fyi the gasket actually isn't metal just looks it in the package. Good luck and ride safe!
Thank you so much. I’m about to put it on, Just need to get the spring bolts torqued.
Hello
Thanks for this vidéo wery helpfull .my kawasaki is from 1992 i have to replace the clutch
but i dont’t now wich référence i shood get for the springs the gasket and the discs. I am not shure
Can you help me?
Thank you .
Excuse my english i am french ( nobody is perfect);)
Thanks for the comment. I did my parts purchase from an online company murphskits.com they sell a complete kit. All parts and gaskets needed for your connie clutch job.
@@SCWMoto thank’s à lot
Perhaps I missed it, but what years of bike is this video relevant for? I have a 2000 ZG1000.
Hello, The bike in the video is a 1987. The engine is a 1986. Engine wise they are the same throughout the zg1000 series. The differance being plastics removal. The 1986 engine has a single star spring all other years are upgraded to 2 star springs.
Thank you! Great video by the way.
Have a 2000 zg2000. It was slipping exactly like your video. We followed along with the video and replaced the star springs and clutch friction plates. Made sure we used a wet clutch oil putting it back together. Squeezed clutch and saw plate moving in and out like it does in your video. I rolled bike out to take for the test ride. Now the clutch sounds and feels like it engages but it will it move the bike. Would love if you could give some suggestions and guidance on what I can do next.
Interesting. So if I'm reading this right, the clutch disengages, but will not re engage. First thing that comes to mind is the #1 friction plate. That should be clocked (offset) 1 tab off from the rest of the friction plates. Ultimately it appears that the clutch plate isn't seating to fully engage into the basket.
@@SCWMoto Hey, it's Bob again from above. Been trying to help Robbie (also above) with his clutch. A little background. We do not know the pedigree of this bike as it was bought recently used. Robbie had significant issues with the clutch slipping, maybe more so when the oil got hot. His mechanic had just changed the engine oil, using automotive 10W40 high-mileage oil. I understand 10W40 is not "energy conserving" so it SHOULD be OK for a wet clutch application, but I am unclear what all those other oil additives do. So, out of an abundance of caution we decided to replace the oil AND the clutch and star springs (again since we had no knowledge of if/when clutch was done prior (and the bike has over 70,000 miles). When we removed the engine clutch side cover and disassembled the clutch and basket, we were surprised to find two intact star springs, and clutch plates that to our untrained eyes looked in OK shape. Clearly the clutch had been changed prior. Nonetheless since we had all the parts (clutch plates, big nut and new star springs) we proceeded to change it all, again not knowing the true condition of the clutch or what the 10W40 oil might have done to contribute to the slipping clutch. We did install the #1 friction plate offset 1 tab (and the one we removed was also 1 tab off) and "exercised" the clutch as in your video at the 17 minute mark to disengage (as we squeezed the clutch handle) and engage (as we released the clutch handle), and we got comparable levels of movement as in your video. We then "buttoned up" the case and added just over 3 quarts of Mobil 20W50 full synthetic motor V-twin oil "specially formulated for wet clutches". I have used this oil in my Yamaha V-STAR for over 11 years without issue. Once the oil was topped off, we started the bike on the center stand and engaged and disengaged the clutch. Disengaged, the back wheel did not turn, engaged it did. So, we took it off the center stand thinking we'd go for a check out ride. Bike starts (in neutral), clutch lever squeezed, toe shifter taps bike into first gear (you can hear it go into gear and you get that audible "clunk", and neutral light goes out, but bike does not move when in first gear and throttle is advanced. So, if you're still with me, we are suspicious given the looked-pretty-good-to-us condition of the clutch that we removed, installation of the new clutch and star springs, addition of wet clutch oil, perhaps the clutch and oil were not our original problem, so we are looking for suggestions of what to check with clutch, drivetrain or hydraulic system.
@@bobm2759 that's interesting. Clutches are a fairly simple device. The outer basket is the engine side the inner is the transmission. It almost make me think the clutch isnt fully seating. For what your describing i wouldn't think its oil it wouldnt slip as bad as that. I would confirm that the clutch plate is fully seating and the clutch springs are still strong. For 70k on the clock, you should look at the clutch slave. It may be a long shot but corrosion may be preventing a full stroke on the clutch release.
@@SCWMoto Thank you for the reply. Yes, I agree, it is a fairly simple device and your video was quite descriptive, and we found no surprises when disassembling the "old" clutch. That is one of the reasons we are so puzzled. How would one confirm that the clutch plate is fully seating? I would assume that would require removing the clutch case side cover and making some kind of measurements. Do you know of good instructions or video. Same kind of question for the "clutch springs are still strong". I suppose for the clutch springs we could put a known weight on the springs, measure the displacement and calculate the pounds/inch of deflection. With that said, the springs seemed quite stiff going back into the clutch basket as getting the bolts to "catch" in their respective slots required some pretty good force to overcome the spring force. Although the clutch rebuild kits came with 2 star springs, there were only 4 of the 6 required to make a full set, so we did not replace those. So we could compare the "new" springs we did not use with the "old" springs still in the basket. We'll have to get more familiar with the clutch slave. We did find another video on bleeding the clutch hydraulic system, and the fellow on that video mentioned he thought his system was "clogged". Is this consistent with your comment to look at the clutch slave? Where would one most likely find corrosion here that would prevent clutch engagement? Robbie does have a shop manual so we'll take a look at that. It sounds like though you believe the problem is still in the clutch assembly and a place to check would require essentially starting over. That's OK, just want to make sure we check other plausible items first since it seems like two clutch jobs in the not too distant past failed to correct the slipping issue. Thank you again and any other thoughts are appreciated.
Looks like the problem was the clutch slave cylinder and old fluid (with air likely) in the hydraulic line. Master cylinder boot was torn and slave cylinder was pretty dirty inside. For good measure, we cleaned and rebuilt both the master and slave cylinders (both with kits), flushed out all of the old fluid, refilled with new and bled the system. No more slipping.