I sold a customer a 2WD 70A last season as a hay tractor to fit his budget and operational needs. Its pulled his Kuhn GMD240 mower, Claas 52T tedder, Kuhn 3200GT Rotary rake and even his old NH 644 Baler over the flats of his 180 Acres. Its exceeded both our expectations for what this inexpensive, mid-range HP tractor can do. Nice to see this tractor covered here, Neil.
We farm around 4300 acres, and I have 3 of these! Great little utility tractor to run Augers around with, move wagons, and a million other things. I even use one for a small 4 row planter to plant 40 acres of sweet corn. Can’t say enough good about them very happy with my purchases!
Yup did a lot of work with 8n and old farmall, 2wd no synchro trans l, arm powered everything. Farm, Feild, logging work. Now i see the kids with 4wd hydro getting stuck on flat land.
Every time I visit Messicks this is the tractor I realistically want the most. Perfect for my small scale hay operation, but the darn 460 I have keeps not breaking.
Someone had told me several years ago that you will find that most 4WD equipped utility tractors are 4WD because they don't weigh enough to be able to use a front end loader without serious traction issues...so the larger utility tractors and full size tractors 2WD works just fine because they weigh enough to not have any traction problems with a loader....not sure how true it is but would definitely make sense.
The most compelling reason to have FWA in a tractor is extra pulling power. Most tractors will slip their wheels some in 2wd if you're pulling heavy. If all you're doing is running non-ground engaging equipment like a mower, auger, what have you, then 2wd is fine, but the moment you try to put the power to the ground you're better off with FWA. Is it enough to justify the cost of FWA over 2wd? For almost anyone that's trying to get work done, yes.
@@TheMadOneofSB In my case with my small property I'd be using a compact utility tractor to use a loader and other attachments and given how light weight those small utility tractors are the 4WD would be a must. I agree with your thoughts as well, and even if you sell your tractor or trade it in at some point in the future just like a 4WD or AWD car it would fetch more money being 4WD. Overall additional maintenance for a 4WD over a 2WD isn't that huge, at least not to justify skipping the 4WD just because of the maintenance aspect. If I had the choice I'd go with a 4WD anyways, I live in Idaho the roads and conditions are never going to be the same so the 4WD tractor would certainly be my pick.
I have a JD 520 with a 45w loader. I used it fine without any ballast. I have added 1 pair of wieghts on the rear for pulling the 3 bottom plow. The narrow front is the problem in softer ground but it is not dangerous like people say about tipping. Wide fronts can tip also in the same scenario.
next up on Messick's: Crazy Neil's Deals - Case IH Farmall 70A as good as knew but has some issues with the clutch ... therefore we offer this single unit for ...
I grew up on 2wd tractors and I'm staying with them. yes, FWA is a nice feature but 98% of the time I'm fine without it in the dirt, snow, etc... I also find 2wd tractors are a lot softer and are my preference for making and moving hay. Even with a loader, material moving and handling bales 2wd is more then enough for a competent operator. The biggest benefit for FWA is in the spring when everything is muddy, but all the FWA is going to do is help you keep driving through spots that are too soft and will have to be fixed later when things dry up.
Add chains and you can go anywhere in winter with a 2wd tractor. We never needed a 4 wd tractor even with the loader on the front, and the Case 1210, 65 hp tractor was overkill for everything on the farm, even the 3 bottom plows especially when you kick the differential lock.
@gibbles pascack anything over 75hp, I would run duals because of weight and the power. Maybe 100hp+ for FWA if doing tillage. Most of what I'm doing is 75hp and under work, and not much tillage. We don't have big hills, so a 65hp loader tractor, 2wd with ballast, is plenty sufficient for handling round bales and pulling the wagons. The main baling tractor is 68hp and has never been used for tillage for us. We have a 55hp tractor for plowing, disking, and pulling cultivator. In the winter, the loader tractor ideally would have chains, but it does not currently.
@@BillTheTractorMan We never had disks, so we did not need to put that much power into the ground. Case 600(35 hp) on the 3 bottom plows until the case 1200 (65 hp) showed up in the early 80s. Bailing was standard size, no round bales, thus did not need the lifting capacity. Everything was small on the family farm(38 cows). Everything was owned, so no need to go to extremes on production. But that is a while ago. Now for the blueberries, we have a Ford 8N(with the implements) and Farmall B. Just this week I was looking at a new tractor to increase reliability potential. Maybe 35 hp would be a good size, in upstate NY.
Turns shorter. Does not tear up the grass. Cheaper to buy and operate. Cheaper tires. A SINGLE set of wheel weights and you will have next to no issues with a loader. The whole reasons for them 4x4 only is since a majority of them in the small tractors are sold that way they cut cost by simplify the assembly line and parts list. Once you go past 40 hp. A lot of people buy for the PTO use and not for the drawbar.
Back in the mid to late 60s, I had a '58 International 350 utility tractor. 2WD, with rear wheel weights, a rigid rear hitch, upon which sat an 18" X 18" x 2' tall concrete ballast block. It had a " Lord " front end loader with a 7 1/2 ' snow bucket. I was living in Massachusetts at the time and used it for moving snow. With a set of "St. Pierre Roller Grip " snow chains, I moved tons of snow . If I was back there now, where the snow can come down pretty good, pretty quick, I would buy a 70A in a heart beat.
I grew up cutting firewood in the woods with a 135 massey ferguson.2 wheel drive,chains on the rear wheels,worked fine for many years.Great small implement tractor,i think today we are less willing to make sacrifices.I buy what I can afford,period.
imagine driving by the back of the store and just seeing the main dude in all their videos on a small tractor going back and forth back and forth back and forth talking to himself xD
I would buy 2wd tractor because I don’t need hp to run grain bin auger n if there is a crop fire with cheap insurance cost it’s not cheap going be expensive to replace. I don’t need 100hp pull water cart or grain bins or small hay equipment or hay feeder in dryer parts of year. Remember operating cost running big expensive tractor cost more n some farms are not full on busy, with one man operation so time/cost of hourly pay is not important. Great vid👍on our farm we do have McCormick four cylinder 130hp cab tractor with FEL which makes efficient but we have International 574 for small jobs.
That's the best tractor i have seen on the channel so far. Few stated there weight issues with new tractors. Was once 6 cylinders now 4 cylinders. 4 cylinders produce power but can't hold a 1000 lb hay bales. New tractors are a joke. So they have to be 4 wheel drive. I still have 2 wheel drive and it will do more heavy lifting then your new stuff. Millennials!!!😆
I just bought my first tractor ever (used). 2WD and no loader... with only 88hrs on it… @1/3 the price of a new one. Even came with a brush hog and blade w/free delivery at that price. It should perform excellent on my property pulling a bush hog, blade/and box blade work, haying, post hole digging, tree dragging on occasion, and perhaps plowing some day if I decide to some large patches of field corn and sunflowers… or a market garden. It is all my grandfather ever had and will more than pay for itself within a year. My first step is to dig a simple 10’L/W x 6” deep drainage fully for the pasture so it does not become a mud hole after heavy rains anymore. Lol
Yep. All of the big 4 offer affordable under 100 hp 2wd tractors. CIH Farmall; Massey; Deere 5E; NH Workmaster. etc. Great for doing chores, for fruit/vegetable farms, pulling hay wagons, brush cutters, stuff like that. When/where I grew up, EVERY farm had at least one 2wd tractor in this hp range- just for cheap power. If you WANT to spend the big bucks, all of these outfits would also be glad to sell you a more deluxe tractor in this size- but they still have these available.
loader tractors generally perform much better in 4wd with the exception of really slippy stuff and very tight spaces... 2wd can make some monstrously sharp turns with brake assisted steering and you never have to worry about front wheel dig
Tractor Mike went to the big farm show (NFMS?) a few years ago where he interview a CaseIH rep who presented their newly launched 2wd versions of some product line, I think up to 150 hp. So they had an actually 2wd in the boot. Mike turned to the camera and explained that the US was one place where 2wd was still around. I live in Sweden and although I read a lot of brochures I can remember my favorite brand's brochures so well to state that they haven't presented the 2wd option since the beginning of the 90ies for their main line and the smaller/economy they did stop well before the turn of the century. This was kind of a problem for me when I looked to replace the MF175 with something modern. I use the tractor for small tasks around the yard and in the summer (when in vacation from the office job) I do have hay harvesting. 4wd machines are quite expensive for just a hobby. I was looking for a 2wd and was at last lucky enough to find one from my favorite brand and from a newer generation. I suspect it actually has been amputeed into a 2wd at some point. The original manual from 1991 mentions exactly zero about 2wd. In later years of the model they have some info on the front axle and it's one of those. Or it maybe be from the last generation (guess the axle didn't change). It's a 85 hp and with the loader a bit north of 4000 kg. It is VERY nimble. But I wouldn't mind some smaller 2wd with comforts. I browsed the specifications and concluded (and set up a keyword watch at the big classified ads page) for a CaseIH 485 XL or 495 XL. Just Google them with the XL cab. It's basically a giant cab onto a very small tractor :-) But I'm not even sure there exists a single one of those in my country. Denmark seemed to hold onto 2wd a bit longer (my Valmet is actually imported used from there) so maybe maybe some has made it across the sea. Now it sounds like I'm saying Sweden was do way ahead but it wasn't really until Volvo ceased their production where the middle segment didn't have any 4wd until it became more common. On the other hand - Norway. You can find Massey Ferguson 100-series with the after market driven front axles there. Their landscape is speckled with mountains and fjords.
For a large lawn like a campus or a corporate headquarters i can see this Case IH Farmall 70A do a great job mowing lawns using a finishing type rotary or flail unit. I ❤ Case IH CNH🚜🇺🇸👍
That video shows what I recognised myself as well. My first tractor will have to be 4WD, regardless of it's size, because my property needs that. As a second tractor for hauling stuff around on more normal grounds there will be a 2WD with a bit more beef in the future after that. Unfortunately with me living in Europe me beeing a customer of Neil is very unlikely. But I like the advices given in this channel, because many of them tend to apply universally and I get insights of how things are done "on the other side of the lake".
Farmed for many years with two wheel drive, mold board plow, disc it did it all well. Still have it, Ford 7700 and still better than many new tractors. But for loaders yes, get 4 wheel drive.
Only 4x4 I've used is a Case Backhoe and a lil Yanmar Tractor. Everything else I've never had a issue with a 2wd using it for hay,plowing,planting etc they have a better turning radius too, they're all you need for Hay operations beside loading but you can do that to if you have too
Just a polite note: Should intro every video with your location. "Neil from Messick's here in Elizabethtown, PA" or whatever will do. You are a bit of a drive from me, but not so far that I won't be telling my father to consider taking the drive next time we are in the market for a new machine.
I prefer 2wd for a loader tractor because of better maneuverability. Not sure on newer tractors but anything I have had (25+ years old) 4wd has horrible turning radius. I'll suffer through minor repairs (bushings, the rods, ect.) To gain that ease of use. Maybe modern 4wd are tighter turning but I can't afford those newer machines.
ill keep my 2wd they work perfect for what we do we have a ih 1586 and ih 986 and a case ih 685. all 2wd. they do exactly what there supposed to do but turn way sharper at the turn row up against a tree line where if it were 4wd id have to stop back up and go back into the row. also 2wds get noticeably better apg (acres per gallon). traction wise we had a neighbor with a 2012 200 horsepower 4wd john deere an swore up and down it would out pull our 160 hp 1586. so of course we had a pull in the field neither of us had duals and both had about 60% tread and I drug his ass about 20 feet and all 4 were spinning and he was jumping so bad I thought he was gonna go through the sun roof. so ill keep my 2wd.
Learned how to drive a tractor on a 1586 planting cane one summer. Still one of my favorite tractors to date, and this 70A puts me in the mind of the old “86” series tractor because if it’s simplicity. If I knew it would be as reliable as them, I’d buy one today.
I believe most if not all of the tractors used by the utility companies in our city have 2 wheel drive. They have front end loaders and backhoes but then again they only work on paved city streets. Have no idea how these videos.got linked to the favorites . Don't own a tractor but still enjoy the videos for some strange reason :-)
Smaller 2wds I would be highly consider buying... Good odd-job tractor, or even good for mowing, raking, etc, not even mentioning manuverability of those 2wds. Slap a canopy on top and there is your air conditioner.
2wd tractors are very handy in a cattle shed. Where i work we have a mf 135. That was replaced temporarilly by a compact kubota tractor. The reason? The 135 can turn easily in the witdh of the cow passage in the shed on the slats thanks to steering that locks really sharp both ways and an open differential. Not only that, its very easy to navigate between the cubicles again because of the tight turning. The kubota was sold because it could add often 30 minutes to the scraping. Purely because youd have to go out of the shed and turn in the yard. That was the quickest option with that machine. The 135: lock the wheel n slip the clutch round in a circle and take 30 mins off the job. Oh and the 135 has a 2.5 liter engine
I have the workmaster 60 4 wheel drive with the 621lt and love it. Same design as this. The only issue I have encountered was now I am on a second neutral safety switch set.
If you're thinking a 4wd tractor will out perform a 2 wd you wouldn't be wrong. We had a 4720 John Deere 4wd cab and loader here and the conversation came up would it out pull a D17 Allis Chalmers. Same HP the weight was very similar and wheels close to the same size. Hooked them back to back the tractors both spun no advantage. Hooked back to back with the 4720 in 4wd pulled the D17 backwards. Through the chain over the 3 pt hitch to get some leverage, 4720 in 4wd the D17 walked away like there was nothing hooked behind it.
For mowing arround your property and doing some light or mid duty work on dry and flat ground is 4WD not required. 4WD is like a bit of a trend going on the last few years. Just expensive and as long as you don't live in the mountains or in a very wet environment 4WD is not nessecary.
We have a farm in central Minnesota and we actually don't ha e any 4 wheel drive tractors that we use, the only 4 wheel drive we have is a ford 861 with the elenco front end.
If manufacturers would stop making tractors out of plastic and so compact they would weight enough. I'll stick with equipment that doesn't need a computer to get it to run.
I'd buy a 2wd all day every day and I'd run that with a loader on it. It's all in how you operate the tractor. Come to a COMPLETE stop changing direction and that clutch will last a long time. 4wd has it's small advantages, but for me not enough to justify owning one. You're not going to run your 4wd truck or SUV in 4H, why would you run your tractor in 4wd? You think a clutch is expensive, wait until you replace a front axle.
I was thinking the same thing. I grew up working on farms, no one had a fwa or a 4 wheel drive unless they were big farmers. We ran on hillsides gullies you name it, even ran loaders on them. Like someone else said come to a stop to switch gears. But then look at vehicle line ups anymore. Cant get a basic plain Jane pickup, the base models have more options than the delux models used to.
I have an IH 424 diesel as a loader machine. Dual stage clutch, no reverser and all unsynchronized. Talk about a bear to run, that and being indirect injection makes it awfully cold blooded....
This tractor would suit a variety of different places for instance a school for mowing and maintenance of the sports fields etc or in the municipal market for instance cutting grass and towing small trailers in a park etc
Who would buy a 2WD tractor? Anyone who knows anything about tractors! :-) Most smaller tractors are 4WD because they are so lightweight that without it they would be near useless. A properly ballasted 2WD tractor can have tremendous pulling power. I now have a newer 28HP 4WD compact tractor but I used to have a 60-year old 28HP 2WD tractor. Lets just say that older 2WD tractor could drag this newer tractor all over the field and make it cry for momma. :-)
I agree I cannot see giving up my farmall M for anything newer. I'd have to buy a 60 hp to try and compete with the 35 from my M. My little A can out pull my buddies deer 1025 25 hp diesel 4x4 all day every day . Buddies deere can barely dig leaves with its loader without losing traction.
I have to agree with you. To hear some on here you can't work with a 2WD. I have a JD820 with 31 hp and weighs 4000 lbs without ballast. I have run it since I was a kid in 1972 and logged thousands of hours on it bush hogging, discing, plowing, cutting, raking and square baling hay. My neighbor has a nice new JD in the same hp range with FEL and 4WD. It is a nice handy tractor for his needs, but it can't weigh 1500#. I'm sure I could drag his tractor off without ballast in the tires or locking the differential, its just physics. I also doubt his machine will live to see 8k hours. The 820 could probably lift it with the gin pole on the 3 pt and drive away.
I had an old 1953 Ford NAA that was 2-wheel drive. It was a great tractor that I used up until a couple of years ago. But you just don't see many 2-wheel drive tractors in use or for sale these days.
I remember haying as a kid on hilly ground with a Ford 8N 2 wheel drive and sometimes we kids/teenagers had to sit on the hood to keep the front end from coming up when pulling the baler. Hit a bump and the front end would bounce we would nearly fall off , that's the old 2 wheel drive tractors method, glad for 4x4 's now.
Only fools bale hay with a Ford 8N. Far too underpowered to be running a baler at proper rated speed. Secondly, they are extremely dangerous for such a task, due to their lack of weight/mass. Ya shouldn't be square baling hay with anything less than a 45 horsepower tractor, at bare minimum, unless you are using old iron like a Farmall "M" or JD "G". We regularly use Ford, Deere, & Massey diesels in the 60hp - 100hp range to do the vast majority of our small square baling. That's because our land is mostly flat. On the bigger hills, you NEED a bigger, heavier tractor to counteract the baler, wagon, and hay load. The alternative is often a serious accident ending in death(s).
Hay tractors are typically optioned 2wd no need for 4wd running a hay cutter or a rake or a baler. Even loader work for hay tractors like stacking bales you do not need 4wd as long as its properly balanced. For dirt work 4wd is king but not needed for every situation
Doesnt the difference between constant mesh and Syncro mesh is the synro components so when you are shifting the output shaft is synchronized with the engine with the help of friction ring and friction cone and a few other bits.
I believe these tractors are imported from Turkey. Not saying it is a bad thing one way or the other, but just because it is built by a U.S. company, doesn't mean it isn't imported.
That was pretty funny, It has USB ports on it! I like the price point and the rear hydraulics . How much on a guess would it cost to add rear hydraulics to a tractor?
Stubb's Homestead : Adding hydraulic remotes really all depends on how the tractor is currently equipped. That, and parts availability, unless you go fully custom for your installation. In many instances, plan on spending about $500 -$1,000 to add a single rear hydraulic remote to most farm tractors when done properly. It's worth the expense if you have the need or want to be able to operate any additional remote hydraulic cylinders on drawn/attached equipment. Plus, rear hydraulic remotes also increase the tractor's future resale value, because the tractor is now more useful/versatile. FYI, a "single remote" is the equivalent of 1 hydraulic control valve & 2 hoses (1 pressure, 1 return) with female ISO (Pioneer) quick-couplers at the ends. You'd be surprised how many people don't understand that simple concept. Here's how I explain it to people in layman's terms: A single remote = 2 ports. Dual remotes = 4 ports. Triple remotes = 6 ports... and so on. For example, if you want to add a useful front-end loader to a tractor without adding a separate loader control valve, you will need a tractor with at least dual rear hydraulic remotes to facilitate the lift/lower, and curl/tilt functions of said loader.
@@turbodiesel4709 Very useful thank you! My massey 1739 has a FEL but no rear remotes, I don't have anything that would use it but it would be nice to have. So 2 port is a must but is it worth it to have 3? what even would use 3 on a 39HP tractor?
Hell if I didn't have much to do but hay . And just a few head of cows. And really don't need a lot of tractor . That one would be just about right. I like it. 😁👍
I walked into JD with cash to buy a 2wd 5055e and they turned me away. Just too much hastle for them to bother ordering a tractor that JD makes. They didn't even respond to follow up emals. I ended up buying a Kubota, a little smaller but with a backhoe.
putting a clutch in a tractor isn't going to cost you 30k...so the what are you talking about? the transmission is just fine for a heavy loader application.
Why not buy a known import? The case 70a is made in Turkey and imported. At least the known imports dont pretend to not be imports. In fact just about all tractors under 100 hp are not made in the US these days.
Hey Neil, did you ever make a video on the u-25 mini? I just bought a 2016 w/300hrs and a hydro thumb. I like it so far, seems like a good machine. But there isn't very much info available on the utubes. I know it was replaced with the u27, but all I see for videos is the little baby one and the u-40.
Who would buy one? Most any farmer that has grown up their entire Lives with 2wd tractors and gotten by just fine. MFWD is nice but it’s not a “need” by any means.
Americans have been farming with 2wd tractors for decades, 4wd tractors are useful in some areas, but 90+% of farmers worldwide have been doing fine with 2wd for over a century lol.
I sold a customer a 2WD 70A last season as a hay tractor to fit his budget and operational needs. Its pulled his Kuhn GMD240 mower, Claas 52T tedder, Kuhn 3200GT Rotary rake and even his old NH 644 Baler over the flats of his 180 Acres.
Its exceeded both our expectations for what this inexpensive, mid-range HP tractor can do.
Nice to see this tractor covered here, Neil.
We farm around 4300 acres, and I have 3 of these! Great little utility tractor to run Augers around with, move wagons, and a million other things. I even use one for a small 4 row planter to plant 40 acres of sweet corn. Can’t say enough good about them very happy with my purchases!
When I was growing up that's all there were two wheel drive tractors and we got along fine
Yup did a lot of work with 8n and old farmall, 2wd no synchro trans l, arm powered everything.
Farm, Feild, logging work.
Now i see the kids with 4wd hydro getting stuck on flat land.
Betcha there were 4wd and I KNOW there were caterpillars. People just didn't see the point of the increased maintenance of the 4wd
Years ago tractors generally weighed a lot more and 4wd wasn’t a necessity to get any traction.
Spent a lot of time on 8n's, H's, M's, 300's, and some fergies and Masseys in there too. Was never into green. ;)
@@prevost8686 Also there was a time when there was no much engine power to waste of 4WD.
Every time I visit Messicks this is the tractor I realistically want the most. Perfect for my small scale hay operation, but the darn 460 I have keeps not breaking.
Someone had told me several years ago that you will find that most 4WD equipped utility tractors are 4WD because they don't weigh enough to be able to use a front end loader without serious traction issues...so the larger utility tractors and full size tractors 2WD works just fine because they weigh enough to not have any traction problems with a loader....not sure how true it is but would definitely make sense.
The most compelling reason to have FWA in a tractor is extra pulling power. Most tractors will slip their wheels some in 2wd if you're pulling heavy. If all you're doing is running non-ground engaging equipment like a mower, auger, what have you, then 2wd is fine, but the moment you try to put the power to the ground you're better off with FWA. Is it enough to justify the cost of FWA over 2wd? For almost anyone that's trying to get work done, yes.
@@TheMadOneofSB In my case with my small property I'd be using a compact utility tractor to use a loader and other attachments and given how light weight those small utility tractors are the 4WD would be a must. I agree with your thoughts as well, and even if you sell your tractor or trade it in at some point in the future just like a 4WD or AWD car it would fetch more money being 4WD. Overall additional maintenance for a 4WD over a 2WD isn't that huge, at least not to justify skipping the 4WD just because of the maintenance aspect. If I had the choice I'd go with a 4WD anyways, I live in Idaho the roads and conditions are never going to be the same so the 4WD tractor would certainly be my pick.
I have a JD 520 with a 45w loader. I used it fine without any ballast. I have added 1 pair of wieghts on the rear for pulling the 3 bottom plow. The narrow front is the problem in softer ground but it is not dangerous like people say about tipping. Wide fronts can tip also in the same scenario.
Remember if the tires don't have some slip, your clutch and drive train will.
Farm for many years with 2 wheel drives and still like them for the basic duties stationary pto work
next up on Messick's: Crazy Neil's Deals - Case IH Farmall 70A as good as knew but has some issues with the clutch ... therefore we offer this single unit for ...
I'm wondering if they'll cut me a deal on this tractor he just wore out the clutch on ;)
clutch not intended for constant direction changes, let's run it back and forth 20 times lol Neil you crack me up
I grew up on 2wd tractors and I'm staying with them. yes, FWA is a nice feature but 98% of the time I'm fine without it in the dirt, snow, etc... I also find 2wd tractors are a lot softer and are my preference for making and moving hay. Even with a loader, material moving and handling bales 2wd is more then enough for a competent operator. The biggest benefit for FWA is in the spring when everything is muddy, but all the FWA is going to do is help you keep driving through spots that are too soft and will have to be fixed later when things dry up.
@KyFarmerman It's like all the truck guys that buy a $70.000 pickup 4X4 shortbed? Who needs it?
@@kennethbredow3098 true. my older ford ranger is a farm truck.
Add chains and you can go anywhere in winter with a 2wd tractor. We never needed a 4 wd tractor even with the loader on the front, and the Case 1210, 65 hp tractor was overkill for everything on the farm, even the 3 bottom plows especially when you kick the differential lock.
@gibbles pascack anything over 75hp, I would run duals because of weight and the power. Maybe 100hp+ for FWA if doing tillage. Most of what I'm doing is 75hp and under work, and not much tillage. We don't have big hills, so a 65hp loader tractor, 2wd with ballast, is plenty sufficient for handling round bales and pulling the wagons. The main baling tractor is 68hp and has never been used for tillage for us. We have a 55hp tractor for plowing, disking, and pulling cultivator. In the winter, the loader tractor ideally would have chains, but it does not currently.
@@BillTheTractorMan We never had disks, so we did not need to put that much power into the ground. Case 600(35 hp) on the 3 bottom plows until the case 1200 (65 hp) showed up in the early 80s. Bailing was standard size, no round bales, thus did not need the lifting capacity. Everything was small on the family farm(38 cows). Everything was owned, so no need to go to extremes on production. But that is a while ago. Now for the blueberries, we have a Ford 8N(with the implements) and Farmall B. Just this week I was looking at a new tractor to increase reliability potential. Maybe 35 hp would be a good size, in upstate NY.
Turns shorter. Does not tear up the grass. Cheaper to buy and operate. Cheaper tires. A SINGLE set of wheel weights and you will have next to no issues with a loader. The whole reasons for them 4x4 only is since a majority of them in the small tractors are sold that way they cut cost by simplify the assembly line and parts list. Once you go past 40 hp. A lot of people buy for the PTO use and not for the drawbar.
There's alot of places in the US you don't need a 4wd Tractor, a 2wd will work just fine it just depends on your needs.
Flat well draining soil. Perfect for my area.
I live in the Appalachians, 4wd comes in pretty handy around here
@@raypflomm6020 nothing I have is flat and I’ve never needed mfwd….
Back in the mid to late 60s, I had a '58 International 350 utility tractor. 2WD, with rear wheel weights, a rigid rear hitch, upon which sat an 18" X 18" x 2' tall concrete ballast block. It had a " Lord " front end loader with a 7 1/2 ' snow bucket. I was living in Massachusetts at the time and used it for moving snow. With a set of "St. Pierre Roller Grip " snow chains, I moved tons of snow . If I was back there now, where the snow can come down pretty good, pretty quick, I would buy a 70A in a heart beat.
For simple purposes like bushhog ,tilling box scraper and to help a second tractor it's fine
Thank you for doing a review on some of the CNH equipment you carry. Really enjoyed learning more about this class of tractor. Keep up the great work!
I grew up cutting firewood in the woods with a 135 massey ferguson.2 wheel drive,chains on the rear wheels,worked fine for many years.Great small implement tractor,i think today we are less willing to make sacrifices.I buy what I can afford,period.
imagine driving by the back of the store and just seeing the main dude in all their videos on a small tractor going back and forth back and forth back and forth talking to himself xD
I would buy 2wd tractor because I don’t need hp to run grain bin auger n if there is a crop fire with cheap insurance cost it’s not cheap going be expensive to replace. I don’t need 100hp pull water cart or grain bins or small hay equipment or hay feeder in dryer parts of year. Remember operating cost running big expensive tractor cost more n some farms are not full on busy, with one man operation so time/cost of hourly pay is not important. Great vid👍on our farm we do have McCormick four cylinder 130hp cab tractor with FEL which makes efficient but we have International 574 for small jobs.
That's the best tractor i have seen on the channel so far. Few stated there weight issues with new tractors. Was once 6 cylinders now 4 cylinders. 4 cylinders produce power but can't hold a 1000 lb hay bales. New tractors are a joke. So they have to be 4 wheel drive. I still have 2 wheel drive and it will do more heavy lifting then your new stuff. Millennials!!!😆
I loved the shot of you rowing through the gears in that Case. Sounds pretty good to!
Great tractor. Well designed for specific applications at a value price! Not a generalist.
I just bought my first tractor ever (used).
2WD and no loader... with only 88hrs on it… @1/3 the price of a new one. Even came with a brush hog and blade w/free delivery at that price.
It should perform excellent on my property pulling a bush hog, blade/and box blade work, haying, post hole digging, tree dragging on occasion, and perhaps plowing some day if I decide to some large patches of field corn and sunflowers… or a market garden.
It is all my grandfather ever had and will more than pay for itself within a year.
My first step is to dig a simple 10’L/W x 6” deep drainage fully for the pasture so it does not become a mud hole after heavy rains anymore. Lol
Yep. All of the big 4 offer affordable under 100 hp 2wd tractors. CIH Farmall; Massey; Deere 5E; NH Workmaster. etc. Great for doing chores, for fruit/vegetable farms, pulling hay wagons, brush cutters, stuff like that. When/where I grew up, EVERY farm had at least one 2wd tractor in this hp range- just for cheap power. If you WANT to spend the big bucks, all of these outfits would also be glad to sell you a more deluxe tractor in this size- but they still have these available.
loader tractors generally perform much better in 4wd with the exception of really slippy stuff and very tight spaces... 2wd can make some monstrously sharp turns with brake assisted steering and you never have to worry about front wheel dig
Tractor Mike went to the big farm show (NFMS?) a few years ago where he interview a CaseIH rep who presented their newly launched 2wd versions of some product line, I think up to 150 hp. So they had an actually 2wd in the boot. Mike turned to the camera and explained that the US was one place where 2wd was still around.
I live in Sweden and although I read a lot of brochures I can remember my favorite brand's brochures so well to state that they haven't presented the 2wd option since the beginning of the 90ies for their main line and the smaller/economy they did stop well before the turn of the century.
This was kind of a problem for me when I looked to replace the MF175 with something modern. I use the tractor for small tasks around the yard and in the summer (when in vacation from the office job) I do have hay harvesting.
4wd machines are quite expensive for just a hobby. I was looking for a 2wd and was at last lucky enough to find one from my favorite brand and from a newer generation. I suspect it actually has been amputeed into a 2wd at some point. The original manual from 1991 mentions exactly zero about 2wd. In later years of the model they have some info on the front axle and it's one of those. Or it maybe be from the last generation (guess the axle didn't change).
It's a 85 hp and with the loader a bit north of 4000 kg. It is VERY nimble. But I wouldn't mind some smaller 2wd with comforts. I browsed the specifications and concluded (and set up a keyword watch at the big classified ads page) for a CaseIH 485 XL or 495 XL.
Just Google them with the XL cab. It's basically a giant cab onto a very small tractor :-)
But I'm not even sure there exists a single one of those in my country. Denmark seemed to hold onto 2wd a bit longer (my Valmet is actually imported used from there) so maybe maybe some has made it across the sea.
Now it sounds like I'm saying Sweden was do way ahead but it wasn't really until Volvo ceased their production where the middle segment didn't have any 4wd until it became more common. On the other hand - Norway. You can find Massey Ferguson 100-series with the after market driven front axles there. Their landscape is speckled with mountains and fjords.
For a large lawn like a campus or a corporate headquarters i can see this Case IH Farmall 70A do a great job mowing lawns using a finishing type rotary or flail unit. I ❤ Case IH CNH🚜🇺🇸👍
Hahaha 7:47 you tires rpm sync up with your camera refresh rate so it looks like the rear tires aren't spinning as you drive down the road.
That video shows what I recognised myself as well.
My first tractor will have to be 4WD, regardless of it's size, because my property needs that.
As a second tractor for hauling stuff around on more normal grounds there will be a 2WD with a bit more beef in the future after that.
Unfortunately with me living in Europe me beeing a customer of Neil is very unlikely. But I like the advices given in this channel, because many of them tend to apply universally and I get insights of how things are done "on the other side of the lake".
Loved the shot of the NH 3430! Never ran one but I've been raised on Ford/NH 3910s and 3930s. Still running 3 of them in the hayfield.
I bet you can do most jobs on the farm without 4wd, plus it costs less to replace the tires!
I know that in my area (Florida) the Golf Courses seem to use a lot of 2WD tractors, and the county I live in uses 2WD tractors for mowing work.
Im in Fl too :) Panhandle area.
Farmed for many years with two wheel drive, mold board plow, disc it did it all well. Still have it, Ford 7700 and still better than many new tractors. But for loaders yes, get 4 wheel drive.
Only 4x4 I've used is a Case Backhoe and a lil Yanmar Tractor. Everything else I've never had a issue with a 2wd using it for hay,plowing,planting etc they have a better turning radius too, they're all you need for Hay operations beside loading but you can do that to if you have too
Just a polite note: Should intro every video with your location. "Neil from Messick's here in Elizabethtown, PA" or whatever will do.
You are a bit of a drive from me, but not so far that I won't be telling my father to consider taking the drive next time we are in the market for a new machine.
I prefer 2wd for a loader tractor because of better maneuverability. Not sure on newer tractors but anything I have had (25+ years old) 4wd has horrible turning radius. I'll suffer through minor repairs (bushings, the rods, ect.) To gain that ease of use. Maybe modern 4wd are tighter turning but I can't afford those newer machines.
ill keep my 2wd they work perfect for what we do we have a ih 1586 and ih 986 and a case ih 685. all 2wd. they do exactly what there supposed to do but turn way sharper at the turn row up against a tree line where if it were 4wd id have to stop back up and go back into the row. also 2wds get noticeably better apg (acres per gallon). traction wise we had a neighbor with a 2012 200 horsepower 4wd john deere an swore up and down it would out pull our 160 hp 1586. so of course we had a pull in the field neither of us had duals and both had about 60% tread and I drug his ass about 20 feet and all 4 were spinning and he was jumping so bad I thought he was gonna go through the sun roof. so ill keep my 2wd.
Ive noticed weather its a pickup or tractor give someone a four wheel drive they think there invincible.
Learned how to drive a tractor on a 1586 planting cane one summer. Still one of my favorite tractors to date, and this 70A puts me in the mind of the old “86” series tractor because if it’s simplicity. If I knew it would be as reliable as them, I’d buy one today.
Love them 86 series too
I believe most if not all of the tractors used by the utility companies in our city have 2 wheel drive. They have front end loaders and backhoes but then again they only work on paved city streets. Have no idea how these videos.got linked to the favorites . Don't own a tractor but still enjoy the videos for some strange reason :-)
Smaller 2wds I would be highly consider buying... Good odd-job tractor, or even good for mowing, raking, etc, not even mentioning manuverability of those 2wds. Slap a canopy on top and there is your air conditioner.
2wd tractors are very handy in a cattle shed. Where i work we have a mf 135. That was replaced temporarilly by a compact kubota tractor. The reason? The 135 can turn easily in the witdh of the cow passage in the shed on the slats thanks to steering that locks really sharp both ways and an open differential. Not only that, its very easy to navigate between the cubicles again because of the tight turning. The kubota was sold because it could add often 30 minutes to the scraping. Purely because youd have to go out of the shed and turn in the yard. That was the quickest option with that machine. The 135: lock the wheel n slip the clutch round in a circle and take 30 mins off the job. Oh and the 135 has a 2.5 liter engine
I did lots of 360's with my 135, with the loader and back blade in the holding pens just jump on the brake and pull the gas lever down
@@ralphross2357 often heard of people doing that. Theyre very nimble little tractors
My father-in-law had a 2wd Ford with a FEL and a bush hog. It worked just fine.
I have the workmaster 60 4 wheel drive with the 621lt and love it. Same design as this. The only issue I have encountered was now I am on a second neutral safety switch set.
If you're thinking a 4wd tractor will out perform a 2 wd you wouldn't be wrong.
We had a 4720 John Deere 4wd cab and loader here and the conversation came up would it out pull a D17 Allis Chalmers. Same HP the weight was very similar and wheels close to the same size.
Hooked them back to back the tractors both spun no advantage.
Hooked back to back with the 4720 in 4wd pulled the D17 backwards.
Through the chain over the 3 pt hitch to get some leverage, 4720 in 4wd the D17 walked away like there was nothing hooked behind it.
When I was young, people just put a big concrete block into the 3 point hitch. That gives you lot's of counter weight for running a loader.
This country was built on 2 wheel drive
Mules and Oxen. 4 leg drive.
For mowing arround your property and doing some light or mid duty work on dry and flat ground is 4WD not required. 4WD is like a bit of a trend going on the last few years. Just expensive and as long as you don't live in the mountains or in a very wet environment 4WD is not nessecary.
I would prefer the shorter turning radius of a 2wd.
I think it is a good option, we farm fairly big in the day's successfully with all 2 wheel drive Fords.
This tractor looks really nice not just in the features but overall
A great tractor for a bushhog
Looks like a sweet tractor. I’d buy it if I needed it
We have a farm in central Minnesota and we actually don't ha e any 4 wheel drive tractors that we use, the only 4 wheel drive we have is a ford 861 with the elenco front end.
“This is not a tractor you want to go back and forth on”
*only goes back and forth for 3 minutes straight*
If manufacturers would stop making tractors out of plastic and so compact they would weight enough.
I'll stick with equipment that doesn't need a computer to get it to run.
I'd buy a 2wd all day every day and I'd run that with a loader on it.
It's all in how you operate the tractor. Come to a COMPLETE stop changing direction and that clutch will last a long time.
4wd has it's small advantages, but for me not enough to justify owning one.
You're not going to run your 4wd truck or SUV in 4H, why would you run your tractor in 4wd?
You think a clutch is expensive, wait until you replace a front axle.
I was thinking the same thing. I grew up working on farms, no one had a fwa or a 4 wheel drive unless they were big farmers. We ran on hillsides gullies you name it, even ran loaders on them. Like someone else said come to a stop to switch gears. But then look at vehicle line ups anymore. Cant get a basic plain Jane pickup, the base models have more options than the delux models used to.
I have an IH 424 diesel as a loader machine. Dual stage clutch, no reverser and all unsynchronized. Talk about a bear to run, that and being indirect injection makes it awfully cold blooded....
This tractor would suit a variety of different places for instance a school for mowing and maintenance of the sports fields etc or in the municipal market for instance cutting grass and towing small trailers in a park etc
I would buy one for a general chore tractor. Id rather split it to change a dry clutch than the major expense of a wet clutch.
Should be a good chore or secondary tractor. Not all chores need a 4wd.
Neil you are the best but you blew that stop sign.
What about on big tractors that have the clutch pushed in constantly for loader work? Some of them have 10000 hours and haven’t had a clutch job.
Who would buy a 2WD tractor? Anyone who knows anything about tractors! :-) Most smaller tractors are 4WD because they are so lightweight that without it they would be near useless. A properly ballasted 2WD tractor can have tremendous pulling power. I now have a newer 28HP 4WD compact tractor but I used to have a 60-year old 28HP 2WD tractor. Lets just say that older 2WD tractor could drag this newer tractor all over the field and make it cry for momma. :-)
I agree I cannot see giving up my farmall M for anything newer. I'd have to buy a 60 hp to try and compete with the 35 from my M. My little A can out pull my buddies deer 1025 25 hp diesel 4x4 all day every day . Buddies deere can barely dig leaves with its loader without losing traction.
I have to agree with you. To hear some on here you can't work with a 2WD. I have a JD820 with 31 hp and weighs 4000 lbs without ballast. I have run it since I was a kid in 1972 and logged thousands of hours on it bush hogging, discing, plowing, cutting, raking and square baling hay. My neighbor has a nice new JD in the same hp range with FEL and 4WD. It is a nice handy tractor for his needs, but it can't weigh 1500#. I'm sure I could drag his tractor off without ballast in the tires or locking the differential, its just physics. I also doubt his machine will live to see 8k hours. The 820 could probably lift it with the gin pole on the 3 pt and drive away.
I had an old 1953 Ford NAA that was 2-wheel drive. It was a great tractor that I used up until a couple of years ago. But you just don't see many 2-wheel drive tractors in use or for sale these days.
I remember haying as a kid on hilly ground with a Ford 8N 2 wheel drive and sometimes we kids/teenagers had to sit on the hood to keep the front end from coming up when pulling the baler. Hit a bump and the front end would bounce we would nearly fall off , that's the old 2 wheel drive tractors method, glad for 4x4 's now.
Only fools bale hay with a Ford 8N. Far too underpowered to be running a baler at proper rated speed. Secondly, they are extremely dangerous for such a task, due to their lack of weight/mass.
Ya shouldn't be square baling hay with anything less than a 45 horsepower tractor, at bare minimum, unless you are using old iron like a Farmall "M" or JD "G". We regularly use Ford, Deere, & Massey diesels in the 60hp - 100hp range to do the vast majority of our small square baling. That's because our land is mostly flat.
On the bigger hills, you NEED a bigger, heavier tractor to counteract the baler, wagon, and hay load. The alternative is often a serious accident ending in death(s).
Would like to see you review a new Holland workmaster cab . I just bought a 75 hp version and it’s been a much better tracker than the 5055e I had
Did about 3 weeks ago
2WD was the standard for 60 years... They can still do the job.
Q. Who would buy a 2 wheel drive tractor?
A. Someone who already owns a four wheel drive tractor.
Everyone got along just fine years back with 2wd
If you to do work in a small space and do tight turns then 2WD is what u need.
Someone with a vagina
Hay tractors are typically optioned 2wd no need for 4wd running a hay cutter or a rake or a baler. Even loader work for hay tractors like stacking bales you do not need 4wd as long as its properly balanced. For dirt work 4wd is king but not needed for every situation
Correct and not all operators need 4wd, I don't need 4wd to mow my 5 acre field or to push dirt from one corner to the next.
That would be a nice upgrade to my Dad’s ol’ Massey-Ferguson 240.
You can adjust your wheel spacing on a 2WD tractor.
Doesnt the difference between constant mesh and Syncro mesh is the synro components so when you are shifting the output shaft is synchronized with the engine with the help of friction ring and friction cone and a few other bits.
I believe these tractors are imported from Turkey. Not saying it is a bad thing one way or the other, but just because it is built by a U.S. company, doesn't mean it isn't imported.
Everything from every tractor company between 60-200hp is imported
That was pretty funny, It has USB ports on it! I like the price point and the rear hydraulics . How much on a guess would it cost to add rear hydraulics to a tractor?
Stubb's Homestead :
Adding hydraulic remotes really all depends on how the tractor is currently equipped. That, and parts availability, unless you go fully custom for your installation.
In many instances, plan on spending about $500 -$1,000 to add a single rear hydraulic remote to most farm tractors when done properly.
It's worth the expense if you have the need or want to be able to operate any additional remote hydraulic cylinders on drawn/attached equipment. Plus, rear hydraulic remotes also increase the tractor's future resale value, because the tractor is now more useful/versatile.
FYI, a "single remote" is the equivalent of 1 hydraulic control valve & 2 hoses (1 pressure, 1 return) with female ISO (Pioneer) quick-couplers at the ends. You'd be surprised how many people don't understand that simple concept.
Here's how I explain it to people in layman's terms:
A single remote = 2 ports. Dual remotes = 4 ports. Triple remotes = 6 ports... and so on.
For example, if you want to add a useful front-end loader to a tractor without adding a separate loader control valve, you will need a tractor with at least dual rear hydraulic remotes to facilitate the lift/lower, and curl/tilt functions of said loader.
@@turbodiesel4709 Very useful thank you! My massey 1739 has a FEL but no rear remotes, I don't have anything that would use it but it would be nice to have. So 2 port is a must but is it worth it to have 3? what even would use 3 on a 39HP tractor?
Hell if I didn't have much to do but hay . And just a few head of cows. And really don't need a lot of tractor . That one would be just about right. I like it. 😁👍
I think just using the brakes to stop before a direction change would make the clutch last forever.
Nothing wrong with a basic tractor. I did lots of work on my parents farm with an old Case 990.
Friend of mine just bought a new 2wd 4701 kubota without a loader for his peach farm.
Turbo engine? I did get why it smoked at the end of the video. There is no load on it, right?
Very cool. Looks fun to operate
I walked into JD with cash to buy a 2wd 5055e and they turned me away. Just too much hastle for them to bother ordering a tractor that JD makes. They didn't even respond to follow up emals. I ended up buying a Kubota, a little smaller but with a backhoe.
Just what I want for tedding and raking in my strange shaped fields
I could imagine that pulling baggage carts around the airport all day... probably with industrial tires.
putting a clutch in a tractor isn't going to cost you 30k...so the what are you talking about? the transmission is just fine for a heavy loader application.
Why not buy a known import? The case 70a is made in Turkey and imported. At least the known imports dont pretend to not be imports.
In fact just about all tractors under 100 hp are not made in the US these days.
Do the A model case come with a cab
He blew right through that stop sign 6:36. The company head of Risk Management better give him a talking to.
whe have hafe ah 2wd td 5010 nh for feeding
When I was younger I thought Case IH was Case 3 now every time I see it I laugh.
I always considered the H first so I thought it looked like a Case Hi LoL Seemed pretty friendly.
Hey Neil, did you ever make a video on the u-25 mini? I just bought a 2016 w/300hrs and a hydro thumb. I like it so far, seems like a good machine. But there isn't very much info available on the utubes.
I know it was replaced with the u27, but all I see for videos is the little baby one and the u-40.
how the pto ?
Now I want to add USB ports to my BX.
cant be more than 10 bucks
How much is it?
So what does it cost?
I’ve been pulled by a John Deere 4440 (during a hayride) and it’s a 2wd
Hay work and grain hauling on roads 2wd way to go
nice tractor, kind of reminds me of my david brown 880
"You may need a clutch after 1500 hrs" Then shifts from forward to backwards an extra 20 times to prove an unnecessary point! OMG
50% off, on the demo model, lol
How similar is this to the NH Workmaster?
Same
@@MessicksEquip Right on, thank you.
Who would buy one? Most any farmer that has grown up their entire
Lives with 2wd tractors and gotten by just fine. MFWD is nice but it’s not a “need” by any means.
Americans have been farming with 2wd tractors for decades, 4wd tractors are useful in some areas, but 90+% of farmers worldwide have been doing fine with 2wd for over a century lol.
Our tractor has a mechanical shuttle and frontloader, but shuttle is that way due to the age, the tractor is 1992 model
Cheaper, lighter, simpler. Does just as good as a job. Don’t have a single front wheel assist tractor.
Granny shiftin, not double clutchin’ like you should
You ran a stop sign he he lol