Thanks for posting this. My question is when you close the pool how far below the skimmer(s) do you have the water. I go to about 6 inches below the skimmer for the water level when closing for the winter. I'm concerned that ice could damage the skimmer housing. I have a 16X32 vinyl liner. I live near Cleveland Ohio and it can get pretty cold. Also the elbows coming out of the return lines is genius. Did you make those? If you did you could market those.
I only use 4 gallons total. 1 gallon per skimmer and return line. Its non toxic and dilutes in the pool water. Doesn't hurt anything. You could send the water to waste first before circuli g and that would at least dump the skimmer antifreeze but I have never had a problem. To be honest, I just use it as a security blanket. When I close the pool I am confident I have blown the lines out. But it can't hurt....
Could explain bonding ? I just installed a 16x32 inground . No concrete yet , next step is to bond everything . I’m confused where the copper wire goes , can it go into a 8 ft ground stake ? Thanks. Awesome videos . I have the same pool I think
Bonding is different then grounding. Bonding takes all electrically conductive surfaces in contact with the swimmer/water and brings them to the same electrical potential. It's not exactly the same but think how you get shocked from static electricity from time to time. By equalizing the built up charge in the materials the swimmer cant accidently become part of the conductive path if there is a difference and get shocked while exiting the pool or touching a surface nearby. All materials have an inherent electrical state. Connecting them together prevents a difference and thus the shock hazard. Its a lot to understand. Now, in my area code states I needed to bond the pool walls, concrete rebar, pool pump, heater, salt water controller, and fence if within 5 feet of the pool's edge. Our jurisdiction allows a #8 bare copper wire from the pool to the equipment pad where it loops through the bonding lugs of said equipment. The builder then ran "jumper wires" from 4 corners of the pool to the concrete rebar before it was poured. The ladder and rail mounts were also bonded in. I ran a jumper from the main wire to an area closest to where the fence runs which was less then five feet from the back edge of the pool. I tied that in when I installed my fence after the pool was done. You also have to bond the water wince it is conductive and there are devices to tie it into the plumbing so water flows over it. If you have a metal pool light it has to be bonded as well. This is just a brief overview. It varies by area and what version of the National Electric Code they are following. The newest code goes even further and requires a copper mesh embedded in the concrete deck at least 3 feet on all sides of the pool. The simple answer is it has to be done to code and has to be done correctly or someone could be injured/killed if done improperly. My inspector told me a story of just such an occurrence when he came out one time during construction. He was chatty. If you have concerns I would consult an electrician in your area. Most pool builders only bond the pool. It's up to the electrician to bond everything else in that is required. Good luck and thanks for watching!
The Average Joe's Garage Thank you ! Where does the copper wire end I guess is my only confusion , does it do a loop and connect back together . Where does it end / start
I think so. If you asked me that previously I would say the cost difference is negligible over the lifespan of the cell when you compare buying g chlorine over the same period of time. But with the chlorine shortage raging on I wonder if salt might edge out overall cost savings over time. Hopefully chlorine comes back down at some point. Now, from a convenience factor salt can't be beat. Last year was super easy to maintain the water with the salt chlorinator. And the water is great. That alone was worth it to me as my schedule always interferes with me playing pool boy.
Thanks for posting this. My question is when you close the pool how far below the skimmer(s) do you have the water. I go to about 6 inches below the skimmer for the water level when closing for the winter. I'm concerned that ice could damage the skimmer housing. I have a 16X32 vinyl liner. I live near Cleveland Ohio and it can get pretty cold. Also the elbows coming out of the return lines is genius. Did you make those? If you did you could market those.
great job! if u want to make a video about how to install it by yourself, we will willing to provide a pool light 0fee.
what size is your pool?
You mentioned the anti freeze in the lines, where does that go? Do you have a way to get it out before it gets pushed into the pool water?
I only use 4 gallons total. 1 gallon per skimmer and return line. Its non toxic and dilutes in the pool water. Doesn't hurt anything. You could send the water to waste first before circuli g and that would at least dump the skimmer antifreeze but I have never had a problem. To be honest, I just use it as a security blanket. When I close the pool I am confident I have blown the lines out. But it can't hurt....
Could explain bonding ? I just installed a 16x32 inground . No concrete yet , next step is to bond everything . I’m confused where the copper wire goes , can it go into a 8 ft ground stake ? Thanks. Awesome videos . I have the same pool I think
Bonding is different then grounding. Bonding takes all electrically conductive surfaces in contact with the swimmer/water and brings them to the same electrical potential. It's not exactly the same but think how you get shocked from static electricity from time to time. By equalizing the built up charge in the materials the swimmer cant accidently become part of the conductive path if there is a difference and get shocked while exiting the pool or touching a surface nearby. All materials have an inherent electrical state. Connecting them together prevents a difference and thus the shock hazard. Its a lot to understand. Now, in my area code states I needed to bond the pool walls, concrete rebar, pool pump, heater, salt water controller, and fence if within 5 feet of the pool's edge. Our jurisdiction allows a #8 bare copper wire from the pool to the equipment pad where it loops through the bonding lugs of said equipment. The builder then ran "jumper wires" from 4 corners of the pool to the concrete rebar before it was poured. The ladder and rail mounts were also bonded in. I ran a jumper from the main wire to an area closest to where the fence runs which was less then five feet from the back edge of the pool. I tied that in when I installed my fence after the pool was done. You also have to bond the water wince it is conductive and there are devices to tie it into the plumbing so water flows over it. If you have a metal pool light it has to be bonded as well. This is just a brief overview. It varies by area and what version of the National Electric Code they are following. The newest code goes even further and requires a copper mesh embedded in the concrete deck at least 3 feet on all sides of the pool. The simple answer is it has to be done to code and has to be done correctly or someone could be injured/killed if done improperly. My inspector told me a story of just such an occurrence when he came out one time during construction. He was chatty. If you have concerns I would consult an electrician in your area. Most pool builders only bond the pool. It's up to the electrician to bond everything else in that is required. Good luck and thanks for watching!
The Average Joe's Garage Thank you ! Where does the copper wire end I guess is my only confusion , does it do a loop and connect back together . Where does it end / start
@@Pee822Wee it just ends at the pool pad. Whatever the last piece of equipment to tie into (pump, heater, etc.). No need to loop.
Do you think salt cells are worth it? Chlorine is getting ridiculous at this point.
I think so. If you asked me that previously I would say the cost difference is negligible over the lifespan of the cell when you compare buying g chlorine over the same period of time. But with the chlorine shortage raging on I wonder if salt might edge out overall cost savings over time. Hopefully chlorine comes back down at some point. Now, from a convenience factor salt can't be beat. Last year was super easy to maintain the water with the salt chlorinator. And the water is great. That alone was worth it to me as my schedule always interferes with me playing pool boy.