2:22 Set timing constant 12 deg BTDC in the 1000-2000 rpm rev range and work your way down 10 deg, 8 deg until the idle hunting stops.If that doesn't work , set 10 deg @1000 rpm and 0 deg @2000 rpm. Above 2000 rpm you rapidly increase timing to where it should be. Hope it helps.
Your methodical detective work and attention to detail will get you there in the end. Your thought about the pipe ends in the push fit connections might well be significant, I've nicked a few O rings not getting plastic pipes square and smooth, might be worth a few new O rings just to eliminate that. Home made smoke machine is a great idea, I wonder if a cheap coffee heater might also work. Well done.
This is my new favorite channel. Let me know if you need some help with the seat. I do upholstery located in denmark. And you should find a fairing to make the lines better up front, with the big dash :)
I prefer the mityvac setup personally for finding vacuum leaks. Im a Stihl Factory certified tech and this is how we test for a leak on those engines. Air leaks are much more common and a much bigger deal on those engines but the principal of the test is the same. Pressurize the intake system with 5psi of pressure (in your case id pressurize to whatever your vacuum/boost gauge claims at idle) and then just let the whole setup sit while you watch the gauge to see if the pressure drops. it will determine if your engine is air tight all the way to the intake valves.
Love this project. An easier way to find vacuum leaks is to run the motor and spray WD40 on any inlet joints. Any leak will show up as smoke from exhaust.
I posted a comment on you earlier vid about plenem bigger volume.i did a 200cc same blower draw through (not much intake volume)and i got that same idle surge.then i went to blow through with a intercooler and about 1.6l plenem chamber no more idle surge and tuneing will be easier with more volume less rapid pulceing to confuse your sencers.
Hey Roland, good to see ya. Unfortunately, the bike won't be ready for the spring event (this weekend). I still need to get a race suit, among other expensive things. We are ABSOLUTELY going to make it to the Fall event. I appreciate you watching. I'm pretty sure you've watched since the very beginning 👍
@Vintage Iron Motorcycles I have been! What a bummer!!! I know you were looking forward to that, but now you have more time to get it the way you want it. You should go to check out the event and your competition!
Give me the specs on the race suit. Leather likely. Can it be perforated? Cannot be on the salt flats, but maybe ok where you are racing. Give me your size. I was a road racer and have a perfect suit for you. I am 5'11" tall and 150lbs. Also, what size boot?
What crank sensor setup are you using/how's it being read with the MS? I've heard of people having issues with the crank signal being setup wrong after going EFI but the bike still running relatively good, the issue I'm thinking of has to do with running Hall/VR with pull up & falling edge vs VR differential and rising edge.
Good tip. Although I wanted to make sure I wasn't having any leaks from the TB as well. On another note, did you start your project? I think you commented on a previous video talking about diving into an EFI conversion?
@@vintageironmotorcycles if you want to test the throttle body as well try to find a rubber cap that will mount the same as your air filter and repeat the process with the mityvac on that cap. You are correct, this summer I am going to attempt to convert both of my snowmobiles to fuel injection. im currently still sourcing parts for the builds. I'd like to try to get a megasquirt to drive ETEC direct injectors but I'm still trying to figure out if that's even possible. Keep up the great work man this project is hugely inspirational.
I see you are starting the bike with a cordless drill. Ive done that alot of times but sooner or later you will burn up the drill. Ive ruined my previous one with it and screwed up the chuck. Tip use a cheap corded one you can abuse.
2:22 Set timing constant 12 deg BTDC in the 1000-2000 rpm rev range and work your way down 10 deg, 8 deg until the idle hunting stops.If that doesn't work , set 10 deg @1000 rpm and 0 deg @2000 rpm. Above 2000 rpm you rapidly increase timing to where it should be. Hope it helps.
Love watching people working through problems, inspires me to do something interesting with my spare CB400F motor (and maybe film it).
Your methodical detective work and attention to detail will get you there in the end. Your thought about the pipe ends in the push fit connections might well be significant, I've nicked a few O rings not getting plastic pipes square and smooth, might be worth a few new O rings just to eliminate that. Home made smoke machine is a great idea, I wonder if a cheap coffee heater might also work. Well done.
This is my new favorite channel. Let me know if you need some help with the seat. I do upholstery located in denmark. And you should find a fairing to make the lines better up front, with the big dash :)
I prefer the mityvac setup personally for finding vacuum leaks. Im a Stihl Factory certified tech and this is how we test for a leak on those engines. Air leaks are much more common and a much bigger deal on those engines but the principal of the test is the same. Pressurize the intake system with 5psi of pressure (in your case id pressurize to whatever your vacuum/boost gauge claims at idle) and then just let the whole setup sit while you watch the gauge to see if the pressure drops. it will determine if your engine is air tight all the way to the intake valves.
How have I never thought of that???
Love this project. An easier way to find vacuum leaks is to run the motor and spray WD40 on any inlet joints. Any leak will show up as smoke from exhaust.
977 subscribers as of Monday morning. You better have your google pay set up.
Great job. It is really exciting when you upload.
Great work! I can't wait to see this bike on the road.
Got the same kind of loapy idle on my 1200cc supercharged yamaha with a drawthrough amr 500.
Seems to be the construction type of the supercharger.
I posted a comment on you earlier vid about plenem bigger volume.i did a 200cc same blower draw through (not much intake volume)and i got that same idle surge.then i went to blow through with a intercooler and about 1.6l plenem chamber no more idle surge and tuneing will be easier with more volume less rapid pulceing to confuse your sencers.
Also try a restrictor on your map/fuel reg line that will help settle down all the pulces
I get the same lopy idle on my supercharged bike, I wouldnt worry about it
Hope those connections were the issue. When is the land speed race? Gotta be getting close, right?
Hey Roland, good to see ya. Unfortunately, the bike won't be ready for the spring event (this weekend). I still need to get a race suit, among other expensive things. We are ABSOLUTELY going to make it to the Fall event.
I appreciate you watching. I'm pretty sure you've watched since the very beginning 👍
@Vintage Iron Motorcycles I have been! What a bummer!!! I know you were looking forward to that, but now you have more time to get it the way you want it. You should go to check out the event and your competition!
Give me the specs on the race suit. Leather likely. Can it be perforated? Cannot be on the salt flats, but maybe ok where you are racing. Give me your size. I was a road racer and have a perfect suit for you. I am 5'11" tall and 150lbs. Also, what size boot?
@@rolandwheeler4842 lmao you're joking. I'm 5'11 150 lbs 😂 shoot me an email at vintageironracing@gmail.com so we can discuss prices
Also, I am a size 10.5 or 11 shoe. Sorry, I didn't see that part of your comment the first time.
What crank sensor setup are you using/how's it being read with the MS? I've heard of people having issues with the crank signal being setup wrong after going EFI but the bike still running relatively good, the issue I'm thinking of has to do with running Hall/VR with pull up & falling edge vs VR differential and rising edge.
Hall effect, missing tooth wheel 24-2, rising edge 👍
mate you need to change your setup . you should put the injectors and throttle body after the turbine
you should move it as close as possible to the cylinders
You need a fan in your garage to cooling down the motor .
Pull your throttle body and make a pvc cap with a nipple for a fuel line. Get a mityvac and build 5 psi of vacuum
Good tip. Although I wanted to make sure I wasn't having any leaks from the TB as well.
On another note, did you start your project? I think you commented on a previous video talking about diving into an EFI conversion?
@@vintageironmotorcycles if you want to test the throttle body as well try to find a rubber cap that will mount the same as your air filter and repeat the process with the mityvac on that cap.
You are correct, this summer I am going to attempt to convert both of my snowmobiles to fuel injection. im currently still sourcing parts for the builds. I'd like to try to get a megasquirt to drive ETEC direct injectors but I'm still trying to figure out if that's even possible. Keep up the great work man this project is hugely inspirational.
I see you are starting the bike with a cordless drill. Ive done that alot of times but sooner or later you will burn up the drill. Ive ruined my previous one with it and screwed up the chuck. Tip use a cheap corded one you can abuse.