Very informative content here sir. Hope there more content comparision on different setup on actual run. Not just like some other vlog thats more on explantion rather than actual run. More power on your channel sir. Godbless!!
Nice video! It seems pretty obvious what the intent of Low Friction is, to basically reduce the lock on your differential. Less binding on corners. The rear engine cars have less usable torque in the front anyway and the opposite on FMs. Giving away grip you can’t use for less bounce and less axle bind. I agree it would be nice to see way more comprehensive data. Look at how Grassroots Motorsports does their tire tests and model something after that.
Yes, I'd wondered why my AR Tuned Build was performing faster than most AR setups. I didn't realize that running two different compounds had a significant difference in overall speed.
I've currently only got the Junior Japan Cup circuit and am building a bigger track. It seems corner speed and stability on the lane change is the key, this may be the secret weapon :)
Very cool. Using the last configuration will definitely increase overall speed. If you start flying off from your lanechange, you may need to start increasing the angle of your front rollers.
I think this deserves a much longer and much more in-depth video. You'll need to make more runs to get more accurate avg times, but also tires that have been trimmed like most would people do. Still a great video though. Another one I'd love to see you do, normal medium/large dia wheels vs medium/large one way wheel sets, it would be nice to see if everyone avoiding one way wheel sets is justified, seems as though I'm the only person that likes them. It seems there are people out there that also don't understand that the one way wheels ARE a differential gear. Just my two cents. Also, shop looking great. Makes me wish Tamiya tried to start the hobby back up over here again. Would love to visit a dedicated 4wd store.
While I do agree that it would have been more definitive to have averaged runs, there were some other reasons that I had to consider in choosing to run the test the way we did it. I had to get there early enough so that I didn't get in the way of other customers so I had some self-imposed time constraints. So that forces me to use Alkalines since that would minimize the time to run the test. If I had chose to use NiMH the test would have taken much longer due to recharging the batteries to the same voltage every run. The motor also starts to change in performance the more runs you put it through. If I were to give each configuration a total of 2-3 runs that would increase the number of laps the motor would run from 12-36. The motor will heat up, carbon will build up, list goes on. I didn't want to have to clean the motor after each run. Which goes back to time constraints again. I've always wondered about the one way wheels as well. Good idea mate, don't be surprised to see a video like this in the future. I probably wouldn't bother with testing different sizes of the one way wheel sets. I'd narrow it down to just using mediums to see if there's a big difference. The track would also need more corners. But yeah its definitely a good test to see if the benefit of having a differential in the corners would outweigh the extra weight and possible reliability concerns.
Getting them set up properly is the hard part. You need to pierce the big gear in the wheel but not the face plate, then attach the wheel and gears to the shaft before attaching the face plate, this will get you the best fit with out the little lateral play they tend to have. You may also need to trim the wall the middle gear sits on in order to have the wheels spin correctly, I find sometimes they have a bit of resistance if not sanded a bit.
Very nice vid Jan, btw how about the bounce comparison between all hard and low friction + hard, usually we race on speed tech and technical layout, which one is better
Yes, but that also makes it easier to clean. The question is, do you want a slower car that doesn't have dust in its bearings? Or, do you want a faster car with bearings that are easier to clean?
ashmo That's probably too much power dude. Maybe Hyper Dash at the most. The MA car is built for Tuned Motors, so try not to wreck your car with Mach Dash.
Z3N Bluster Okay then,if i want to use Mach Dash at my MA car, what would i need to modify up to final form like, chassis cut,hanging damper, trimmer wheel, and build suspension?
Mr. Zen, I want to ask the distance between the brakes with the runway should be how many mm? whether the gear also affects, sorry the question is too basic a beginner like me. thank you
I don't understand your first question. A higher gear ratio like 4:1 has more torque, but less top speed. A lower gear ratio like 3.5:1 has less torque, but more top speed.
I think what he means is, what is the proper thickness of the brakes?, how mm it should be ?.. and is that any relation with the gear ratios... lets say if we want to change to high gear ratio, should we adjust the thickness of the brake... CMIIW...
no general formula for this one and no direct correlation (like thicker brake sponge means you have the up the gearing). You will have to assess and imagine the effects of each brake thickness as well as the gear ratio on the track layout. Use the vacant time before the competition starts to plan how you will tackle the course.
Good question. For super hard and low friction. I have not in the same manner as these non trimmed tires. But jave have used that combination in many of my Open Class builds. Check them out on my instagram. Link is in my UA-cam Bio. For Super Hard and Hard, i have them on my AR Chassis Basic Build Car. It is pretty fast. And I will do a comparison video of my basic build of MA, AR, and FM-A soon, so stay tuned to the channel.
The general knowledge is. Medium Diameters have less top speed, more torque, and lower center of gravity. Large Diameters have more top speed, less torque, and higher center of gravity. People generally trim large diameter tires to get the better center of gravity like medium diameter and also lose weight by having less rubber on the wheels of the car.
Michael Kenny Depends on the rules. If you're not allowed to trim your tires. Use Medium Diameter in a technical track. If you're allowed to trim tires. Use trimmed large diameter.
It sounds to me like a high speed track. if there are no jumps and youre using a rainbow lanechange. Use Jet Dash. If you dont have a Jet Dash, use Ultra Dash.
Hi Z3N, Pinoy UAE player here as well, just a suggestion, I think it will be better of a result if you're going to test each tire at least 10 times then average the time. Then you can definitively tell the difference. Thanks for the very informative videos Z3N! Keep it up.
Yes, that is correct. Consider a couple of things though. Running the same test 10 times and then times 3 takes considerably more time. In addition to that, it also requires 30 sets of new alkalines. Which I do not have nor care to spend the money. If I use rechargeable batteries instead, the process takes even longer! If you run the motor that many times, the performance starts to change and will affect the result, which adds another variable that we do not want. My prediction is this, even if I ran each tire setup 10 times, the difference to itself would be around +/- 1% Which can be considered negligible.
There are too many variables and in order to minimize those variables I chose to give them 1 run each. And as you saw, there was a clear difference in each configuration just from 1 run each.
Thanks for the reply point taken, off video topic question, do you have a video explaining roller angle effects? like what is the general angle to overcome 3 lane bridge, slope + curve etc. I know that will be depending on the track layout, your build etc, if you can just kindly give us newbies a rule of thumb regarding this. Thanks!
I generally stick to 5 degrees when I use 19mm HG rollers at the front. I usually do not go below that unless the lanechange is in a very slow portion of the track. But then again 5 degrees still handles more power so I'd still stick to 5. If you start flying off at the lanechange with 5 degrees try and increase to 7. If it still flies off, start praying to your God.
DXN Provisions. Located at Arcadia California. There is also a link in the video description down below. The link is also shown at the intro of every video.
It sounds like you have underlying problems that sort of relate to your gears. If your Ultra Dash is slow. You may need to break-in your Ultra Dash or you need to work on making your transmission smoother. If your car is very loud, you need to work on your transmission.
Z3N Bluster idol maganda ba yung revtune 2 para sa ganyang setup? nag build kasi ako ng MA ginaya ko yung nasa video mo. ganyan na ganyan. and sa gears po pala anong magandang substitute for 3.7.1? ... I super like your builds.
I 12 years old back then in year 2000. But our setup here in the Philippines is that we are using a RWD sponge tires, and only a roller at the middle of the front fiberglass add on bumper. The front wheels are not used, so our setup literally ran on 3 wheels The chassis we were using is a super one chassis or a version of the super one with no bumper. The brand was not tamiya, it was HJH. We had to reinforce the chassis with fiberglass sticks that fits flushed to the gaps at the side of the battery compartment. Though it did only a little to add stiffness. The thing we had back then seems more powerful than those you have tbh. But they were ridiculously fast that catching them barehanded with our hands guaranteed bruising or cuts. A crash was 100% damage to car, but HJH chassis were only like 2 dollars equivalent at the time. All the tracks on the highest level of competition must have no jumps for safety reason. Those cars even out performed a 1/8 onroad nitro rc car - a hobby I’m into now. It’s been 17 years since I’ve been in the mini 4wd hobby (rwd in my case), and I’m thinking of getting back at it. If it becomes popular here in the Philippines again, I would surely recreate the builts we had back then.
Sounds like you were racing on a high speed track. The track in this video is a technical track. It has slopes. The car setups required to maximize performance on these types of tracks are completely different from what you're describing. We race high speed too but we limit it to Tuned Motors. Here in the USA, it would be too dangerous to run very fast cars. If it flies out and hits somebody on the leg or worse, somebody will take you to court and sue you.
Z3N Bluster I recently got back to racing them again. Before I started, I was oriented about The three different classes. Pro-stock, speed-tech, and as you mentioned - high speed. At that Time we just want to be fast so my first true build was a high speed build. We didn’t have to deal with bumps. We didn’t deal with damping weights which didn’t exist back then. As a kid back then, I always was a bit scared everytime I ran The car. Ofcourse a car moving at those ridiculous speeds is no joke even my uncle was blacking off The track. The “oomph” you get from highspeed can’t be felt on pro stock and speedtech. But speedtech gave me The most headache. People don’t race highspeed in my country nowadays.
Call them Medium Diameter, so everyone is clear. Yes. The center of gravity is low yet your top speed isn't going to suffer too much. If you you use Small diameter you risk having too low of a top speed. If you use Large Diameter you risk having a car with too high of center of gravity. Talk to your fellow racers to see and find out their reasoning as to why they use certain parts. We do not race, "Pro Stock," here in the States so I can only help you to a certain extent.
There is no best motor for Tamiya. It depends on the track. Always adjust your car to the track for racing. There isn't a motor that will be good on ALL tracks.
Luky H4rr13r Yes but the car will be more likely to bounce out. I'm not sure if you noticed, but the All- Hard Tires configuration bounced more than the others.
You mean the distance between my rear brakes and the track surface? There is no ideal distance. You need to change your setup according to the track. If there are alot of bank sections, your car will slow down too much unless you raise your brakes. If the track has many short length jumps, you need to lower your brakes.
Hard: 39.06s // Super hard: 41.27s // Low friction: 40.20s // LowFrictionFront-HardRear: 38.14s
Let's see a new video with different tire combination!
Thank you for this
Result. Hard:39.06, Super hard :41.27, Low Friction: 40:20
Very informative content here sir. Hope there more content comparision on different setup on actual run. Not just like some other vlog thats more on explantion rather than actual run. More power on your channel sir. Godbless!!
It's amazing how they change lanes lol, Tamiya has been around again in PH these past few months
Nice video!
It seems pretty obvious what the intent of Low Friction is, to basically reduce the lock on your differential. Less binding on corners. The rear engine cars have less usable torque in the front anyway and the opposite on FMs. Giving away grip you can’t use for less bounce and less axle bind.
I agree it would be nice to see way more comprehensive data. Look at how Grassroots Motorsports does their tire tests and model something after that.
Would've love to see the Low friction + hard vs Superhard + hard tires like on the AR build. I wonder which one is faster.
Are there medium mags that have flushed contact point?
Great video, I've always wanted to see a side-by-side comparison of the tires. I think I'll be trying out this on my tuned class car.
Yes, I'd wondered why my AR Tuned Build was performing faster than most AR setups. I didn't realize that running two different compounds had a significant difference in overall speed.
I've currently only got the Junior Japan Cup circuit and am building a bigger track. It seems corner speed and stability on the lane change is the key, this may be the secret weapon :)
Very cool. Using the last configuration will definitely increase overall speed. If you start flying off from your lanechange, you may need to start increasing the angle of your front rollers.
I think this deserves a much longer and much more in-depth video. You'll need to make more runs to get more accurate avg times, but also tires that have been trimmed like most would people do.
Still a great video though. Another one I'd love to see you do, normal medium/large dia wheels vs medium/large one way wheel sets, it would be nice to see if everyone avoiding one way wheel sets is justified, seems as though I'm the only person that likes them. It seems there are people out there that also don't understand that the one way wheels ARE a differential gear.
Just my two cents.
Also, shop looking great. Makes me wish Tamiya tried to start the hobby back up over here again. Would love to visit a dedicated 4wd store.
While I do agree that it would have been more definitive to have averaged runs, there were some other reasons that I had to consider in choosing to run the test the way we did it.
I had to get there early enough so that I didn't get in the way of other customers so I had some self-imposed time constraints. So that forces me to use Alkalines since that would minimize the time to run the test. If I had chose to use NiMH the test would have taken much longer due to recharging the batteries to the same voltage every run.
The motor also starts to change in performance the more runs you put it through. If I were to give each configuration a total of 2-3 runs that would increase the number of laps the motor would run from 12-36. The motor will heat up, carbon will build up, list goes on. I didn't want to have to clean the motor after each run. Which goes back to time constraints again.
I've always wondered about the one way wheels as well. Good idea mate, don't be surprised to see a video like this in the future. I probably wouldn't bother with testing different sizes of the one way wheel sets. I'd narrow it down to just using mediums to see if there's a big difference. The track would also need more corners. But yeah its definitely a good test to see if the benefit of having a differential in the corners would outweigh the extra weight and possible reliability concerns.
Getting them set up properly is the hard part. You need to pierce the big gear in the wheel but not the face plate, then attach the wheel and gears to the shaft before attaching the face plate, this will get you the best fit with out the little lateral play they tend to have. You may also need to trim the wall the middle gear sits on in order to have the wheels spin correctly, I find sometimes they have a bit of resistance if not sanded a bit.
Drew Fox me too I love using them for tech tracks.
Very nice vid Jan, btw how about the bounce comparison between all hard and low friction + hard, usually we race on speed tech and technical layout, which one is better
Lol, that lane jump from your hand on the first tires run. Great video as always.
Hi Zen, are those 3 tires for large diameter only?
Where'd you come from bro?
Anyone tried anything in FMA? Should I put hard in the front and the low fiction at the back in this case? Thanks.
what is the best size of tire should be use of this kind of track
Medium Diameter Wheels.
Hi I wanna ask smth. If your bearing AO 620, black resin cover is gone, can you make tutorial to fix it. Not all gone, but some of those for example
I remove the covers on all my 620 bearings. The cover slows them down anyway.
@@Z3NBluster I thougt it'll be more prone to dust
Yes, but that also makes it easier to clean. The question is, do you want a slower car that doesn't have dust in its bearings? Or, do you want a faster car with bearings that are easier to clean?
And do you have to put bearing on the wheel 620 ao or hex hole
Its up to you. it depends on your budget. I highly recommend the AO620.
Jan, have you try Power dash with 4.1 gear (stock gear) for the transmission. For tire low friction on the front and hard on the back
No. The chassis on this car is MA. You're not allowed to use Power Dash on MA.
Z3N Bluster i build my MA car like your car but i change my gear to 3.7:1 and use mach dash..is that good jan?
Uden Beater bcause power dash is single shaft motor dude
ashmo That's probably too much power dude. Maybe Hyper Dash at the most. The MA car is built for Tuned Motors, so try not to wreck your car with Mach Dash.
Z3N Bluster
Okay then,if i want to use Mach Dash at my MA car, what would i need to modify up to final form like, chassis cut,hanging damper, trimmer wheel, and build suspension?
is it much advisable to take off reston tires whenever not using at tracks? any tips how to take care reston tires?
No, I don't use Reston tires.
ah its not popular anymore due to super hard tires
Should have tried low friction at the back and hard on front. You might get better cornering speed as the rear tyres break loose during tight turns.
Mr. Zen, I want to ask the distance between the brakes with the runway should be how many mm?
whether the gear also affects, sorry the question is too basic a beginner like me.
thank you
I don't understand your first question. A higher gear ratio like 4:1 has more torque, but less top speed. A lower gear ratio like 3.5:1 has less torque, but more top speed.
I think what he means is, what is the proper thickness of the brakes?, how mm it should be ?.. and is that any relation with the gear ratios... lets say if we want to change to high gear ratio, should we adjust the thickness of the brake...
CMIIW...
no general formula for this one and no direct correlation (like thicker brake sponge means you have the up the gearing). You will have to assess and imagine the effects of each brake thickness as well as the gear ratio on the track layout. Use the vacant time before the competition starts to plan how you will tackle the course.
hello zen wanna asking you something...have you try low friction with super hard or hard with super hard?? thx before
Good question. For super hard and low friction. I have not in the same manner as these non trimmed tires. But jave have used that combination in many of my Open Class builds. Check them out on my instagram. Link is in my UA-cam Bio. For Super Hard and Hard, i have them on my AR Chassis Basic Build Car. It is pretty fast. And I will do a comparison video of my basic build of MA, AR, and FM-A soon, so stay tuned to the channel.
Z3N Bluster ok im wait for ur next video...
Pleasee.. make a video about the velg. In game if u change the wheel it got faster
I don't understand your question.
@@Z3NBluster sorry i mean the velg sir
What is a velg? I've never heard of this word.
Velg means rims
I was planning to buy a rowdy bull starter pack, my question is: is the motor already broken in?
Newbie here
No
Thx
Is that white tires an offset tread tires?
No.
@@Z3NBluster can you tell me the name of that product?
Tamiya Part Number 95371
@@Z3NBluster thank you very much
Then what the super hard tires should be?
They should be trimmed. They regain alot of grip when they are trimmed.
What different performance you can get with medium or large tire ? Really i dont know to use 🤔
The general knowledge is. Medium Diameters have less top speed, more torque, and lower center of gravity. Large Diameters have more top speed, less torque, and higher center of gravity. People generally trim large diameter tires to get the better center of gravity like medium diameter and also lose weight by having less rubber on the wheels of the car.
Z3N Bluster so conclusion is medium tire is better
Michael Kenny Depends on the rules. If you're not allowed to trim your tires. Use Medium Diameter in a technical track. If you're allowed to trim tires. Use trimmed large diameter.
Z3N Bluster owh i see... okai thanks for the information 😉👌
Ihave a question which one should i use sprint dash or hyper dash 3 the track is no jumping
It sounds to me like a high speed track. if there are no jumps and youre using a rainbow lanechange. Use Jet Dash. If you dont have a Jet Dash, use Ultra Dash.
Hi, could you do a comparison between types of wheels. like stock vs one way wheel.
where is that place? i want to visit
Sir for you which is better? Hard or super hard?
Super Hard generally.
The BADZ(badheadz) x COB(course out boys) shirt is nice. Where can I get that shirt?
Cubing is Life Find them on Instagram and ask.
Hi Z3N, Pinoy UAE player here as well, just a suggestion, I think it will be better of a result if you're going to test each tire at least 10 times then average the time. Then you can definitively tell the difference. Thanks for the very informative videos Z3N! Keep it up.
Yes, that is correct. Consider a couple of things though. Running the same test 10 times and then times 3 takes considerably more time. In addition to that, it also requires 30 sets of new alkalines. Which I do not have nor care to spend the money. If I use rechargeable batteries instead, the process takes even longer!
If you run the motor that many times, the performance starts to change and will affect the result, which adds another variable that we do not want.
My prediction is this, even if I ran each tire setup 10 times, the difference to itself would be around +/- 1% Which can be considered negligible.
There are too many variables and in order to minimize those variables I chose to give them 1 run each. And as you saw, there was a clear difference in each configuration just from 1 run each.
Thanks for the reply point taken, off video topic question, do you have a video explaining roller angle effects? like what is the general angle to overcome 3 lane bridge, slope + curve etc. I know that will be depending on the track layout, your build etc, if you can just kindly give us newbies a rule of thumb regarding this. Thanks!
I generally stick to 5 degrees when I use 19mm HG rollers at the front. I usually do not go below that unless the lanechange is in a very slow portion of the track. But then again 5 degrees still handles more power so I'd still stick to 5. If you start flying off at the lanechange with 5 degrees try and increase to 7. If it still flies off, start praying to your God.
Thanks and well noted! I always do the later. haha
What is the location of the shop? And what is it called?
DXN Provisions. Located at Arcadia California. There is also a link in the video description down below. The link is also shown at the intro of every video.
why don't use stock tire?
Too much bounce and too much grip.
can i use that in prostock?
Instead of the Extra Large Diameter setup that I demonstrate here. Use Medium Diameter instead.
I mean, the height distance between the brakes with the track lane.
Hello sir ano pong tire setting best for fma tapos gear ratio po I've been using ultra dash pero pagong pa Rin Yung takbo Ng fma ko
It sounds like you have underlying problems that sort of relate to your gears. If your Ultra Dash is slow. You may need to break-in your Ultra Dash or you need to work on making your transmission smoother. If your car is very loud, you need to work on your transmission.
are you filipino z3n blaster?
Idol may sponge brakes ba yung stabilizer mo sa taas ng front rollers mo?
Nope
Z3N Bluster idol maganda ba yung revtune 2 para sa ganyang setup? nag build kasi ako ng MA ginaya ko yung nasa video mo. ganyan na ganyan. and sa gears po pala anong magandang substitute for 3.7.1? ... I super like your builds.
Wag mo gayahin Yung ganto. We only tested the tires on this video. Use Medium Diameter wheels instead. Use Torque Tuned 2 Pro.
Use 3.5:1 if the track has alot of straights. If your on a more normal 3-lane track. Stick with 3.7:1.
Why didn't I find your online store sooner? Oh my god, how much money did I spend on ebay
Blame the UA-cam Algorithm :D
I 12 years old back then in year 2000. But our setup here in the Philippines is that we are using a RWD sponge tires, and only a roller at the middle of the front fiberglass add on bumper. The front wheels are not used, so our setup literally ran on 3 wheels
The chassis we were using is a super one chassis or a version of the super one with no bumper. The brand was not tamiya, it was HJH. We had to reinforce the chassis with fiberglass sticks that fits flushed to the gaps at the side of the battery compartment. Though it did only a little to add stiffness.
The thing we had back then seems more powerful than those you have tbh. But they were ridiculously fast that catching them barehanded with our hands guaranteed bruising or cuts. A crash was 100% damage to car, but HJH chassis were only like 2 dollars equivalent at the time.
All the tracks on the highest level of competition must have no jumps for safety reason.
Those cars even out performed a 1/8 onroad nitro rc car - a hobby I’m into now. It’s been 17 years since I’ve been in the mini 4wd hobby (rwd in my case), and I’m thinking of getting back at it. If it becomes popular here in the Philippines again, I would surely recreate the builts we had back then.
Sounds like you were racing on a high speed track. The track in this video is a technical track. It has slopes. The car setups required to maximize performance on these types of tracks are completely different from what you're describing.
We race high speed too but we limit it to Tuned Motors. Here in the USA, it would be too dangerous to run very fast cars. If it flies out and hits somebody on the leg or worse, somebody will take you to court and sue you.
Z3N Bluster I recently got back to racing them again. Before I started, I was oriented about The three different classes. Pro-stock, speed-tech, and as you mentioned - high speed. At that Time we just want to be fast so my first true build was a high speed build.
We didn’t have to deal with bumps. We didn’t deal with damping weights which didn’t exist back then. As a kid back then, I always was a bit scared everytime I ran The car. Ofcourse a car moving at those ridiculous speeds is no joke even my uncle was blacking off The track.
The “oomph” you get from highspeed can’t be felt on pro stock and speedtech. But speedtech gave me The most headache. People don’t race highspeed in my country nowadays.
sir tanong lng advisable b mag mid tires kung ang category lng ay pro stock??
Call them Medium Diameter, so everyone is clear. Yes. The center of gravity is low yet your top speed isn't going to suffer too much. If you you use Small diameter you risk having too low of a top speed. If you use Large Diameter you risk having a car with too high of center of gravity. Talk to your fellow racers to see and find out their reasoning as to why they use certain parts. We do not race, "Pro Stock," here in the States so I can only help you to a certain extent.
+Z3N Bluster thank you sir :)
What is the Best Dynamo for tamiya ? Thx
There is no best motor for Tamiya. It depends on the track. Always adjust your car to the track for racing. There isn't a motor that will be good on ALL tracks.
Thank you for this.
AT NAUSO NANAMAN NGA DITO SA PINAS ANG TAMIYA...
May pambili na kasi majority ng batang 90s eh hahahahahaha bumili nga din ako.... Dati dun lang ako SA 60 na peke eh
same...bumili din ako ng starter pack na ROWDY BULLY naka atomic tuned 2 na..para kunti nalang need upgrade
Matagal na uso tamiya mini4wd sa pinas dude...
@@mineralwater25 bro he said nauso. Meaning it returned. Anyway.
The brickyard in Glorieta is pretty cool
The harder it is the less grip it has, like in real race cars. I think that's why harder tires get slower time.
Loc po ng shop niyo paps?
Arcadia California. Click the link for dxnprovisions.com in the video description down below.
Hi uncle Jan. I liked your video before watching it. #criminal
D'aww, Uncle Jan. When are you guys due?
thanks for info :)
More softer the tire, more faster it'll run.
Luky H4rr13r Yes but the car will be more likely to bounce out. I'm not sure if you noticed, but the All- Hard Tires configuration bounced more than the others.
ill go with slick tires.. soft but thin.. you will hae to depend on the breakpads and side dumpers with stiff
Where is this shop? So neat, feels so good! ahahahah!
DXNProvisions.com. click the links in the video description.
Good
Stock motor? Wow
because of friction.
the low friction tire’s size is worst.
I heard Indonesia still has alot of Medium Diameter Low Friction tires.
There are no best tires it depend on track
We talked about that in the video. We said that the results skew towards hard tires, is probably due to the track configurations.
stock motor lang ambilis na
Can you bye me some tamiya car
I would have.. Too bad you misspelled, "Buy." :D
hi sir i have a question what is the best tire size for speed tech? im using hd pro and 3:5:1 gear..can you give me some tips about tires?
You should get the Large Diameter 5-spokes and have tires trimmed for those. If you can't do that, use Medium Diameter wheels.
I mean, the height distance between the brakes with the track lane.
You mean the distance between my rear brakes and the track surface? There is no ideal distance. You need to change your setup according to the track. If there are alot of bank sections, your car will slow down too much unless you raise your brakes. If the track has many short length jumps, you need to lower your brakes.