@@yungtooli That's crazy taking the already installed seal out just to have to reinstall it again, because it centre's itself naturally over the crank flange whereas the front seal doesn't have anything to center on so yeah I would use the tool in that case.
Yeah, I think it's funny. This process indicates you either have perfect alignment with the crank or the bottom of the block, but not both? It seems if the cover is even with the bottom of the block, it should be engineered to be centered with the crank. Just thinking out loud. Anyone with a moderate understanding of how this should get a good seal should be able to do this without the centering tool.
@@brianross4057 not exactly ive had to do it ttwo tranny drops going for third either its unlined without the tool or the barbell or galley plug is messed up
pssst you everted the seal when you put it on. That lip is supposed to protrude towards the front of the motor not towards the flywheel mating surface. Should have lubed it a bit and twisted it onto the crank surface so it was oriented correctly, before you drove it into the cover.
GM updated the rear cover and they come with the seal installed, upgraded bigger bolts- and no need to fart around with special "3D printed" tools, just order GM part no 12639250 on amazon
Well done sir. Very nice only thing I wished you mentioned was your preferred Technique on oil pan to rear cover bolts. The long ones you only torque to like 9ft lbs… before/after centering crank with a rotation/torquing rear cover bolts…let me know! Either way very nicely executed tutorial.
By any chance could I get a copy of ur tool g code file and ur printer settings Ive got a ender 3 V2 pro had it about a year but never printed due to not having skills but kinda have no other choice but to learn bc my trans rebuild has taken savings and vacation days away just about n gotta get this seal n trans done so i get rolling again. Please n thank u
I’m no mechanic, but why can’t you just put the seal in the plate and then install onto the block,won’t the seal center it instead of your printed tool?
You're 100% wasting EVERYONE's time here messing with all this unnecessary BS.. Put the friggin pan on. Torque it to the block, 18Lb/Ft. Dab rtv in the corner of the block/pan. put cover on with gasket. put all the bolts in but only start them. the 2 bolts nearest the oil pan that go into the block, turn them with a ratchet just until the ratchet offers resistance. YOU DO NOT WANT IT TIGHT.. then go to the pan and tighten the 2 bolts that hold the cover to the pan. you will see it suck up to the pan which is perfectly flat with the block.. idea is to tighten it up just like you would an intake manifold on a V8. 2 bolts on cover, then 2 bolts on the pan until the bolts get tight. now go back and tighten the rest of the cover bolts. I don't care about this little circus that you're doing, it will result in leaks.. and if you do the same thing in the front and the bottom is not 100% flush with the block, you WILL break your pan or you'll have a leak. Oh and HAMMERING in your barbell with a dry o-ring was a real nice touch. Hope you didn't cut that o-ring and send that shit through your engine to plug a bearing orifice or lifter somewhere. LOL Push those in gently by hand.. If you cant, then it's not lubed or something is wrong. Stick to knitting.
Eastwood torque wrenches - www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/eastwoodtorquewrench
Rear cover gasket & seal - amzn.to/2HGYCSA
LS barbell - amzn.to/2HCyica
3D printer - amzn.to/2HGYO4g
Crazy how I’ve installed hundreds of these and I’ve never used the tool and they’ve never leaked
Yep, you don't need it if you put the seal in the cover and then slip it on, it centers itself. The front seal is a different story though.
@@brianross4057 oh okay good. wonder why a lot of people buy the new cover and take the preinstalled seal out just to install it using the tool
@@yungtooli That's crazy taking the already installed seal out just to have to reinstall it again, because it centre's itself naturally over the crank flange whereas the front seal doesn't have anything to center on so yeah I would use the tool in that case.
Yeah, I think it's funny. This process indicates you either have perfect alignment with the crank or the bottom of the block, but not both? It seems if the cover is even with the bottom of the block, it should be engineered to be centered with the crank. Just thinking out loud. Anyone with a moderate understanding of how this should get a good seal should be able to do this without the centering tool.
@@brianross4057 not exactly ive had to do it ttwo tranny drops going for third either its unlined without the tool or the barbell or galley plug is messed up
I like how you cover the details, i just go for time-lapse, but i like how you do your editing
Can you post Stl link?
Like butter good job
pssst you everted the seal when you put it on. That lip is supposed to protrude towards the front of the motor not towards the flywheel mating surface. Should have lubed it a bit and twisted it onto the crank surface so it was oriented correctly, before you drove it into the cover.
Seal needs to go in dry.
Put the bolts in and lets go, I done these lying on my back engine in the truck none of that worry no problems no leaks..
GM updated the rear cover and they come with the seal installed, upgraded bigger bolts- and no need to fart around with special "3D printed" tools, just order GM part no 12639250 on amazon
Well done sir. Very nice only thing I wished you mentioned was your preferred
Technique on oil pan to rear cover bolts. The long ones you only torque to like 9ft lbs… before/after centering crank with a rotation/torquing rear cover bolts…let me know! Either way very nicely executed tutorial.
Sure would have been nice to have an stl file for the tool.
Or install gasket in plate and install plate
The best videos 💪
Great video, would you have a link to the cad file? Thanks
The white mark on the seal indicates "this side out"
The alignment tool I bought has a tiny hair of movement on the crank and cover. Is that okay or will it cause a potential slight misalignment?
you dont need an alignment tool Just get the seal on the crank and make sure the cover is flat against the oil pan
Great Vid BTW what is the dumbell thing for or do ?
Diverts oil.
By any chance could I get a copy of ur tool g code file and ur printer settings Ive got a ender 3 V2 pro had it about a year but never printed due to not having skills but kinda have no other choice but to learn bc my trans rebuild has taken savings and vacation days away just about n gotta get this seal n trans done so i get rolling again. Please n thank u
so no link to the STL?
Got a thingniverse link to your seal tool ?
Could I get that file for the 3d center, I have a 3d printer
Do you still have the cad file for your tool?
I’m no mechanic, but why can’t you just put the seal in the plate and then install onto the block,won’t the seal center it instead of your printed tool?
The seal lip is too soft and won't accurately locate it. People have done that method with leaks as a result.
You can do it without the tool, the seal alignment tools are not necessary and really just a way to separate the tool collectors from their $.
@@HTMR Nope. I've done it this way on 4 builds and zero leaks. Where did you get your information from?
@@Avalanche2 100% F-ing percent!
@@TheLuckyone760 Zero leaks at the beginning, but will leak way down the road.
Hi! Could you please share your tool dimensions so I could also 3d-print it? Thanks in advance!
welp looks like i cant have it either
@@sheldonholland found it!
Cool video. What CAD program did you use?
Pro E / Creo / PTC - whatever name it goes by today.
can you tell me the specs of that 3D spacer? Thanks!
What's the cost
Oh, I'll just go get a 3D printer. Then learn CAD.
Thinking of coming up with a 3d print/CAD course. Would you be interested?
The tool is $16.
would you sell me a install tool you made for LS rear seal?
I need one, too.
Why are you taking it out
You're 100% wasting EVERYONE's time here messing with all this unnecessary BS..
Put the friggin pan on. Torque it to the block, 18Lb/Ft. Dab rtv in the corner of the block/pan. put cover on with gasket. put all the bolts in but only start them. the 2 bolts nearest the oil pan that go into the block, turn them with a ratchet just until the ratchet offers resistance. YOU DO NOT WANT IT TIGHT.. then go to the pan and tighten the 2 bolts that hold the cover to the pan. you will see it suck up to the pan which is perfectly flat with the block.. idea is to tighten it up just like you would an intake manifold on a V8. 2 bolts on cover, then 2 bolts on the pan until the bolts get tight. now go back and tighten the rest of the cover bolts.
I don't care about this little circus that you're doing, it will result in leaks.. and if you do the same thing in the front and the bottom is not 100% flush with the block, you WILL break your pan or you'll have a leak.
Oh and HAMMERING in your barbell with a dry o-ring was a real nice touch. Hope you didn't cut that o-ring and send that shit through your engine to plug a bearing orifice or lifter somewhere. LOL Push those in gently by hand.. If you cant, then it's not lubed or something is wrong.
Stick to knitting.
Savage!
How GM how? how do balls up a design this bad?
I actually think it is a good design. Seals nice.
Great, now all i need is a printer ,🤨
Did that have pistion in it because you spun it like butter
Crank only I think at this point.