LS Tech: Rear Main Seal Install with AlignIt Tool
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- Опубліковано 2 січ 2018
- Rear Main Seal (Updated Design - GM 89060436)
amzn.to/2CP7cbs
Rear Cover Seal (GM 12639249)
amzn.to/2lQeHXm
SacCity Corvette - AlignIt Tool
www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignI...
How to install the rear cover and rear main seal on an LS1 engine. - Авто та транспорт
the way we do these at work is... we install the remain seal in the retainer...install the retainer and let the seal position itself and the retainer...then torque the rear main seal retainer...THEN install the oil pan.....in ls engines if you have a rear main seal leak.. it is mostly the retainer gasket and not the rear main seal as much...
exactly what i was thinking.. use the main seal to center and position the cover.. this tool is just fluff.
Hi, so I was told at a shop that I have a rear main seal leak, and so decided to do the repair myself, and i have the motor out, is this really true? It’s the metal plate that leaks and not the seal?
Videos with quality like this give me way more confidence in maintaining my Vette myself. I always look if scruf has a video on the subject before tearing down thank you for putting the time into filming your build!
Thanks for the kind words; I really appreciate hearing the videos have helped others!
Very good and informative video brother. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks for watching!!
Good deal. Hitting up my rear main tomorrow!!!
Awesome. Good luck on your project!
Thanks man! Exactly what I needed. Great job
Matthew Creel Awesome! Glad the video was helpful.
At what point did you realize you forgot the rear barbell oil seal? Lol
haha, not soon enough. Luckily I realized it before the RTV set.
I was looking down the comments to see if anybody else noticed that.
😂
What brand of seal did you use. I got a gm and it went in to easy as if the seal was slightly to smaller worried it will spin in cover. Pulled it back out (came out way to easy) and put calipers on it and it is a fraction smaller than original but I don't kone if that's because of 22 yrs of heat and oil on the factory and its swelling a hair. Just seems there should be some tension when the new goes in. Thinking of using some rtv on the outside.
Experience n Noledge much Helpful demonstration
Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Like the cam motion cam! I believe you have an employee of cam motion watching
Yea, I was very happy with how the Cam Motion Titan 4 turned out. Nice flat torque curve. Choppy idle but not so rough that it affects driveability.
The cover I got came with seal already, is that a good thing? This is going on a 2004 GTO
Nice vid thanks you what brand gasket and seal did you use and did you reuse the cover bolts? Also what brand barbell did you use?
I used GM gaskets. Reused the cover bolts. I used a SacSity billet barbell... I have a separate video on that. Thanks for watching!
I think you this backwards first get the alignment tool install into the rear cover then finger tight the lower bolts first then the upper ones then torque the bottom 2 first then tirque the rest after that remove alignment tool then install your new rear main seal
Liked to have saw the AlignIt Tool from inside after you removed it, to see where the white plastic piece the seal is on went to.
It has to come out from the inside of the seal after it goes over the crank snout, it disappeared like magic, lol.
The white plastic just falls off inside the tool. It should be left in while doing the install, it holds the seal lip open so it doesn't fold in during the install.
Christian
Hi
Just wondering why no sealant is placed between the bottom of the plate and engine block. I realise the plate is torqued down to the block via the sump bolts but I would have thought some goo would be added along the bottom of the plate to be sure.
Hope to hear from you.
Regards
Mark
Between the block and rear cover plate is a gasket. Between the rear cover plate and the oil pan is a gasket. Put a dab of rtv in the corner where those three pieces come together (block, oil pan, rear cover plate). That helps prevent oil from seeping past where the pan gasket and rear cover gasket intersect.
Thank you for your videos, I'm gonna pull my engi ne myself wish me luck lol
You can do it! 👍
@@ScrufsGarage thanks man! Merry Christmas to you 👍🏼
Good vids. Did you leave barbell for other video on upgrade?
Yes, I did a video on the barbell here... ua-cam.com/video/4Hi9XMQ1S_4/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
Barbell ??
I got a question for you Scruf,
So I have my rear main cover installed with a brand new rear main seal and gasket on my LS3. In your opinion is it worth taking off the rear main cover and upgrading to the billet barbell? If yes, can I re-use the gasket and main seal? Engine has never been ran, and can you re-install the main seal when it’s already in the rear cover? Alignment issues?
You would destroy the rear main seal pulling it back out of the cover, and if you leave it in the cover you risk alignment issues/leaks. You might be able to reuse the cover gasket, the challenge though is that you should put a dab of RTV in the corners where the block, the pan, and the cover come together. That RTV can be tough to get off the gasket once it has cured. The billet barbell is a nice unit, but may or may not be worth the extra work to change it at this point. Good luck!
Correct, you aren't going to see any significant differences. Oil pressure is a function mainly of main bearing clearances. The tighter fit of the billet barbell helps prevent any unfiltered oil from getting past the barbell.
@@ScrufsGarage The differences in non filtered oil without the barbell installed
i will be doing my rear engine main seal on a 2009 Hummer H2 with 6.2L V8 is that the same install tool that i need ? I have the GM 6spd 6L80E trans. Also since it is 4X4 how difficult of a task is this. I do heavy school buses, and over the road semis eaton fuller 10sp, 13speed and allison 1000, 4000s transmissions . thanks
Yes, as far as I know, this tool works for any of the LS motors. I haven't worked on a Hummer so I can't share any specifics there... but if you can work on OTR trucks, I'm sure the Hummer won't be any problem. Just don't use any of your 1" drive impacts on it, haha.
How mad were you when you had repull that cover?
You do not need the tool if the oil pan is off.....the rear oil seal retainer will float and self center.... torque it..then install the oil pan
Aren’t you supposed to add some sealant to the bottom of the cover as well??
Yes, add a dab of sealant in the bottom corners where the block, cover, and oil pan come together as shown around the 1:38 mark.
No oil galley barbell ?
When I first filmed the install, I forgot the barbell. I highlighted it around the 30 second mark so that others won’t overlook it. You’ll really hate life if you get the motor installed and forget the barbell, haha.
Install the seal dry?.. Is that a manufacturer recommendation?. I was trained to lube the inside of that main seal. you want lube on there when the crank start spinning
It comes with lube there already
GM manual says to not lube it, install dry. but i have no idea why
It's a PTFE seal and needs to be installed dry on a clean shaft .
Check this short video
ua-cam.com/video/TGXNgpkvEe0/v-deo.html
@@danielg4228 awesome. Hadnt seen that before . thanks guys
Learned this the hard way . I've installed a well lubricated PTFE seal
Few days later it was leaking worse than the old one . Had to drop the transmision again !
I have a ls 5.3 and I rebuilt it. I already put it in my truck but has low oil pressure. I forgot to put in billet barbell in. Will the billet oil by pass in the oils filter fix my situation or no?
Ugh, very sorry to hear you left out the barbell. You absolutely have to install it. The barbell is what routes oil down into the oil filter. Using the bypass delete won't do what you need.
Where can I find the torque specs for the LS engine?
There are a number of good online resources. I also purchased a book called "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines" which had useful tips and a nice torque spec chart in the back. amzn.to/2XbuZfw
@@ScrufsGarage thanks brother. Will it cover the t-56 trans? And other transmissions?
@@Leveluplivin No, that book is focused just on the LS engine. I'm sure there are other books that might focus on the T-56. Or, you could buy the Factory Service Manuals which would details everything for your specific model. While those manuals are typically several hundred dollars, they are very extensive and if you're tackling a major project, can really pay for themselves.
Thanks for the video
. I would like to purchase your tool. Also I have a question, why do I keep blowing my seal right out the back.?
The tool is from SacCity Corvette. As for blowing out the seal, you may be building too much crankcase pressure. Take a look and make sure the PCV system is venting correctly.
As scruff said something is wrong along your pcv to be blowing seal as its preasurising
@@ScrufsGarage It would be hard to "blow" the seal unless there was an explosion of oil vapors in the crankcase in which case, you'd probably have several other seals blown including the oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, valley cover gasket, and knock sensor seals. I say this, because of the PCV intake tube that normally allows air into the crankcase via one of the valve covers. There is no check valve on this tube -- nothing to keep crankcase vapors from going through it back to the throttle body or air intake tube. Even if the PCV valve (on the OTHER valve cover) is completely blocked, you shouldn't be able to build any notable amount of pressure on the crankcase without an explosion within it.
Why dont you just install the seal into the back cover BEFORE re-installing the cover? That way, the seal centers itself around the crank...Or is this tool only for doing in-car repairs where you don't want to spend the extra 5 minutes removing the cover?
If you install the seal before installing the cover, there is enough play in the bolt holes that you may not get the cover properly centered and you get a rear main seal leak. The tool allows you to get the rear cover perfectly centered, then tighten the bolts. Then when you install the seal, it is perfectly centered around the crankshaft. They make a similar tool for aligning the front timing cover. Must-have tool. Makes it a simply job. Pulling the torque tube again to fix a rear main seal would be a nightmare!
@@ScrufsGarage just trying to understand......so there is play in the bolts regardless of if the tool is used or not. the rear cover needs to be aligned, and then bolts get tightened, and cover will not move anymore. the question is why cant we use the seal itself to align the rear cover before tightening bolts, vs using tool to align before tightening bolts. i know the engine manual shows using a tool. but i dont understand why. only thing i can think of is that the oil pan bolts may pull the cover down too far, resulting in misalignment. in which case the tool wouldn't be able to be removed, and thus be a sign that there is misalignment.
The seal can flex, so it's difficult to get the cover perfectly centered. The tool is a rigid fit to the cover and the crank, so that the center of the opening in the cover is perfectly concentric with the crank.
Right lol i did it and it works and no leaks so
It won’t center itself I’ve tried before u have to have the tool u get it off a mm it leaks
U need to put sum kind of oil on the seal or when it starts it will have a dry start
That's very common on a lot of motors, but the service manual and manufacturers like Fel-Pro instruct that the seal is designed to be installed dry.
It's a PTFE seal and needs to be installed dry on a clean shaft . Check this video ua-cam.com/video/TGXNgpkvEe0/v-deo.html
Where is the barbell? I didnt see you install the barbell that slides in by the oil filter bypass
Correct. As noted at the 30 sec mark, I had forgotten to install the barbell. Fortunately I noticed it sitting on the work bench immediately after, so I was able to go back and get it installed. But otherwise would have been a very unfortunate mistake.
Why not replace the plate with the gasket already installed?
You could, but the flexibility of the gasket can allow the cover to be slightly off center. The installation tool ensures the cover is perfectly center on the crank, so when you install the seal, it is perfectly centered too. Less chance of a rear main seal leak.
What about the oil galley barbel
Yes, make sure you have the barbell installed! See the 30 sec mark in the video. I forgot mine and had to go back to install it. Fortunately I caught it immediately afterwards as it was sitting on the work bench, haha. But would have been a major problem later on.
Pretty good, except, 1:53, I've never seen a timing (chain) cover on the BACK of an engine.
U can put it in with out doing that and still goes in
You for got the oil thing to plug it off
0:31 I did… luckily I saw it sitting on the work bench right after putting the cover on. Would have been a major pain if I hadn’t caught it!
Oil gallary plug
You messed up on the part where you used the speed wrench your crazy they are torque specs to 22 not 17
The pan should go on last.
Don't need that $50 tool anymore with that updated seal.
Nice but you forgot to install barbell
0:32 definitely don’t leave that out!
Dude you forgot to put oli galley plug 😂 big fail no oil getting filtered in that motor smh
Lost oil pressure, my friend! Never forget the dumbel...
Needing a tool to align the rear main seal screams lack of build quality, you'd never see this on a Honda engine
The Barbell noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Haha, I know. Luckily I caught it before I got too far along. It would have been such a pain to try to fix it after it was back in the car.
@@ScrufsGarage hahah, nice. fkn was a ass hole clench moment there hahahaha. Legend!
Dude you totally forgot to put oil diverter barbell in before you installed the cover...smh
Got too excited to put things together, haha. Luckily I caught it before I got too far. I called it out in the video around the 30 second mark so that hopefully others don't make the same mistake. It would really stink to get the motor back in the car and to have missed this!