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I borrowed one from my 80 years old neighbor here in France. I asked him for a tool to drill a wall (beton, cement) and he was nice enough to borrow it. What I didn't know was that apparently this was a great mistake. I broke while I was drilling the wall, now I am in phucked up situation where I cannot find anyone to repair it so I can give it back to neighbor...
Was just using the same one yesterday, It belonged to my late father ....excellent and durable piece of equipment. Dad also had many of its accessories (Rotatory saw, sander and others) ... God bless your soul dad ..
My grandfathers one is the same design, but the all plastic model, and it's been sat inside our cupboard for years, just got it running again with a new cable, seems a lot better then modern drills
Brought my first Black and Decker drill in 1971. Variable speed, forward and reverse hammer drill. Still using it today. In that time, repaired cracked cable and a pair of brushes. Great video. Thanks
Oh, I have this exact same model. I inherited it from my grandfather and still use it sometimes. Old tools are just always superior to new ones in sturdiness and overall quality, even if they are technologically not up to date anymore. I inherited a whole wardrobe full of tools from my grandfather, most of them are several times as old as I am and they still perform their functions perfectly. And one day I'll start restoring them just like you do. :)
I just want to say that I am bookmarking this video because of the wonderful comments with insightful suggestions. I generally use q cordless Craftsman drill these days, but I still have my old B&D plus a really nice, lightweight Rockwell I inherited from my father. The B&D is from the time when B&D went downhill and was/is making junk, but the old Rockwell is a honey and this video has inspired me to give it a new life. If either of my nephews or nieces show an interest in doing things that require a drill, I'll make a present of it. Until then, I'll put it back in service myself.
Ha, this is my very first drill. I did almost same job many times, and found how to remove bit holder.😉 Hold the drill on surface and put the bit holder key fully inserted, with a hammer hit on key counter clockwise direction. Thank you for video 👍
Black & decker D720... Nearly everyone has had one of these... A good way to bring dull plastics back is Tcut... Next time you do one of these, shield the windings on the armature & field pack with a bit of ducting tape before putting the wire brush near em... You can always carefully clean between the segments of the comm with a fine pick... Try not to re-use old cords...they get hard with age.... Best to sack em off and fit new power cords to older electrical items like this... Put a bit more grease in that gearbox...as you've got a void in the lower portion of it and once the grease warms up it'll all just drop down into it and not be picked up by any of the gears... Look to fill the gearbox 1/2 full....no more... The little gunmetal bushings are likely to be oillite... Dunk em in a bucket of oil overnight to re-saturate em... You've made a nice job of that and if you look after it that'll see you OK... (they're only light duty drills...just bare that in mind)... 😊 Glenn GLMelectrical UK
Greetings, Glenn, from stateside. I recently did a half-assed rebuild of a 1930s drill for a guy I know ... he just wanted it to work, didn't give a rip about looks ... I put new carbon brushes in it (he couldn't find them) and repacked the gearbox. The grease was so solid it felt like resin, so I took it all out and refilled it close to full. Did I f*** up? And if so, can you explain? Also, I had my local electric motor shop replace bearings in a 1-horse 1952 table saw motor. I asked them to make it modern, but they used the same wire it came with, which is very stiff and also seems small for the amps it's drawing. It runs, but I need to take it back and have them do some work? Any input is appreciated! Edit: I'm an amateur who's just picked up a lot of things along the way.
@@willklusener9659 Hi. As a rule I replace cords with new... Cords are the one component of a piece of current using equipment that get the hardest life... In regards CSA (Cross sectional area) : You'd need to look at the rating plate...see what the wattage is... A current usage calc can then be carried out by dividing the wattage by the voltage... 😉 Just because the supply current of a circuit is capable of delivering a certain amount of current within its design parameters...doesn't mean that anything plugged into it will draw the maximum currents that can be safely delivered by said circuit... Cords are sized by manufacturers...and it would be unwise to go against a manufacturers instructions (which will often take presidence over regs such as BS7671, NEC etc) For a 1HP single phase drive...i would use either a 1.5mm 2 core SWA...and use the armourings as the CPC...or a 3 core SWA...with one of the cores together with the armourings... Or alternatively a bit of copex from the motor to the starter...pull in some 1.5mm singles... Grease like most things will expand when hot... So we don't fill gearboxes full with grease...enough to do its job...no more... For ball & roller bearings the general rule is upto 11,000RPM in grease.. 22,000RPM in oil... P. S. If you like antique machine tools have a peep at my channel... I've about 40 of em in storage... 😉
That sound at the end gave me flashbacks of my old B&D I bought back in 1983. I ran that until if finally burned up drilling holes for wiring using a spade bit in 1999. Cost me 25 dollars, I think. Was heavy, but a great machine. Thanks for the vid!
I just "inherited" this exact drill from my father. It's running but really rough. I've opened it up and came here to see how to deal with the HUGE amount of grease in the front gears. Thank you for giving me the confidence to keep going. LOVE old tools!
My dad has one that's older than this - grey handle instead of orange. He's taken care of it, and it still works great - better than even today's cordless!
Brought my B&D variable speed reversible hammer drill 48 years ago. Wore the chuck out, fitted a new one. Good as new. Chuck cost twice what the drill did! Fitted new brushes many years ago and cleaned the commutator. Nothing today is serviceable and ends up in bin. Lovely restoration.
This was one of the first drills I used. Think it it still in my Dad's shed. He passed away recently. Glad I found this restoration video. Reminded me of him and what he taught me. I might attempt a clean up of it and it will remind me of him. Thanks for sharing.
I had one of these when I was a lad for DIY. It probably cost me a weeks wages in those day. Today I probably could not afford the renovation. lol. Fascinating and great to read all the comments from the rocket scientists.
Me too, I got mine in 1976! I also have the vertical drill stand for this drill. After seeing this video I might get it out and set it up full time on my work bench.
The old all-metall B&D drill my dad must have bought in '57 when he built his house,and later, in the 80's, stashed in a locker at our cabin still runs smoothly and is a good back up for projects. However, this video made me realize I need to open the little beast, clean it, and see if it needs new brushes, grease, etc. Thanks.
You should never use emery paper on the copper commutator, it embeds carborundum in the copper and it will grind the brushes away fast. Use glass paper instead, the glass if it gets embedded in the copper is soft and will turn to dust when the motor is started. This is how we learnt to overhaul electric motors for use in aircraft.
@@stevesebzda570 Thanks, I use to overhaul starter motors, electric fuel and hydraulic pumps in the aircraft industry. First we would take a very light cut off the surface of the commutator in a lathe, this trues the com, then clean the grooves and burnish the edges (lightly) of the segments, and lastly polish the com with a fine glass paper and use the same glass paper reversed to bed in the radius of the new brushes. Other than demagnetising the fields and a continuity test that was all we would do.
@@stevesebzda570 I've sure there are other ways of doing the same thing, maybe the auto industry has a different process they use, with aircraft I always worked with the belief "Do it the right way first time, every time, and it wont come back to bite you" with aircraft parts it all came down to efficiency, aircraft parts would become less efficient with age, when a part showed ware it would be overhauled, some parts had a timed life and would be overhauled when it reached it's expiry time whether it was within spec or not. I use the same methods with my cars, tools and home appliances when effecting repairs. I still love to watch these tool restoration videos, there is always something new to learn.
@@stevesebzda570 If the scratches all run in the same direction around the commutator, not across the com, the brushes will bed them selves in with only a little ware at the beginning of the initial start up. Just don't make the scratches to deep, that would reduce the surface contact between the brushes and the commutator and would produce arcing and extra heat.
It's a little block of carbon, held in a little slide, and pushed by springs onto the commutator (the part of the armature (rotating part of the motor) which has electrical contacts. Electricity is supplied to the carbon brushes, which rub (brush) onto the commutator, which then supplies the windings on the armature with power.
I know this is an old video but I still love looking at it. My dad had a drill very like that in either the late 60’s or 70’s in Australia! Excellent restoration.
I have an old Black and Decker corded drill from the 80's (not this model though) and it still works to my knowledge. My Dad gave it to me when I moved out on my own along with a tackle box full of nails, screws, bolts, washers and such which I still also have after 25 years. I haven't use the drill in ages but they don't make stuff like they used to that's for sure.
Nice job ! Suddenly I'm back five decades. My D720H, the hammer drill variant, got the regrease and brush service annually, but not a repaint! The chuck screws off -- when assembled, select low speed, insert the chuck key and tap it firmly with a mallet (seen from rear, insert key on right and tap downwards). Though lightweight, a well maintained D720 would stand lots of rough use and just keep going. B&D 60's ads in UK papers were for a drill plus lots of ancillary kit, clearly aimed at amateurs, and competed with Wolf drills, but Makita, JCB, De Walt, Bosch, etc. came later AFAICR. Today's portable, reversible, multi-speed, keyless-chuck drills are amazing, but these old drills got the job done back in the day.
I've still got me Dad's old blue 70s Black and Decker. I never remember it looking that good. It had attachments for a circular saw and grinder. Great piece of kit, might try bringing it back to life after watching that vid. Thanks. Brilliant video.
Great job! my dad left me an old 1980's BnD drill, still works still have it, don't use it cause I have a far better DeWalt... But after seeing this you motivated me to restore it, not gonna use it but someday I'll pass it to my kids. Thank you for sharing your amazing work!
I have the same drill...just in gold color...from my grandad...but I need to restor it also....few months ago I plug in...and try to start it after 15 years in ...but sudendly something made a pok (maybe fuse?)...do you have any idea what went wrong? and what I need to replace...fuse?
Old black & Decker drills are getting rare now I really like the distinctive sound of when they wine and feel but back in the day they were the Makita and the DeWalt and everyone had one especially the orange one
I recently bought one of those in mint condition at a second-hand shop, works great and you indeed need to twist a metal knob inwards or outwards to put it into hammer mode. I gotta say it works better than most drills do know and is build with really high quality
This drill might be older than you think as I have one the same it was my first drill and I've had it since 1976 and when I bought it was second hand and still works perfectly till now although I've changed the Chuck as the old one gave up three years ago ... beautiful restoration good on you .
Esplêndido, muito bom o seu trabalho. Me encanta seu perfeccionismo e organização dos objetos, simplesmente maravilhoso o que você faz. Continue postando mais vídeos pois sou muito fã do seu trabalho. Abraços aqui do Brazil.
Very good job man! The end result looks perfect, seems to be brand new 👍 ...and yeah, the mr. Bean parts were so funny, specially the one after disassembling. I had to laugh so hard 😂
I've used a few of them over the years only problem was that phosphor bronze bearing near the brushes gets really hot and melts the top of the drill. good video.
I miss the days when B&D made a quality, dependable tool for the ages with enough torque to break a wrist! The crappy trite they sell today just isn't up to snuff
I work in Power Tools sales at a local hardware chain in my country. Main reason B&D ditched making the Trade/Commercial use tool is because the parent company Stanley Black and Decker bought DeWalt and made them the Top of the line, then slotted in Stanley Fatmax to be the Home DIY Brand. B&D today is the odd job here and there. It's awesome having older lads come in with 30+ year old power tools looking to order parts for em to get them going again. We sell a Makita Circ Saw that's been the same model Makita have sold for 30 odd years, it's amazing.
@@AzimuthKiwi It's just the same in the Computer business, only more so. The high end commercial (server) machines are built like a brick shithouse; the low-end consumer stuff is virtually stamped out in a printing press. Same goes for printers: there's so much competition that the basic unit is just a way to sell consumables. By the time you've bought 2 or three sets of cartridges you might as well have bought a new printer (and it's probably worn out with no parts available anyway).
Nice work..I had a very similar Black and Decker drill,which I bought new in 1980..It was made in Germany,coloured aqua blue,called Titan,it had a hammer function on the two speed gearbox,a sort of scalloped ring behind the chuck,and a rotary speed control knob on the top of the drill body..worked well for many years but the bearings finally gave out and it started to get hot on one side as the armature was too close to the field ..was hard to get parts,but I finally did,..would have continued to serve me but someone stole it..
I've got one of them which I used the other day when the cordless was out of battery, not a bad drill, enough power to drill a 10mm hole in brass and next to no run out on the chuck
TheJR1948 why? I do not believe it's right of you and make such an answer. but if you can come up with more answers as to why I will not follow TysyTube Restoration, i will be more then happy to read you answer:) But for now i will follow his guidelines:)
Perfect view Maestro, I have a larger model B&D of 1976 made in Germany, yet the main bushings are too loose due to many-year hard service. Your job encouraged me to turn new ones, and revitalize my oldie for new duties!
Btw: For future plastic restorations: You can use friction welding with 3D filament - put some filament in a Dremel, rub against plastic of same color (and type I guess) and it will bond. Not a fan of painting plastic.
I am still using mine! Bought as a Christmas present about 35 years ago! Never misses a beat. Done nothing to it. except use it when all my, "state of the art" tools give up!!
Couple of lessons . A man should know his thing like this guy. Do not throw away things. Instead , do what this artist does . And last but not the least , learn from this guy's work.
According to B&D first remove the Jacobs chuck by inserting the key and striking it in a anti clockwise direction with a hammer which loosens the thread allowing removal
Please keep in mind that the strain relief for the power cord was missing and no substitute was fitted (14:40). I would add this item. Best regards, Richard
That was the transitional model, heavyweight metal parts with a plastic handle, and the only reason they didn’t go all plastic was that testing was still being done on plastic gears in the late 70’s early 80’s and had not yet trusted their resilience
I have restored several of these B&D drills, but was surprised that you could not/did not want to remove the chuck. The procedure is to place the chuck key in position, then strike it sharply with a plastic-faced hammer, in an anti-clockwise direction (when looking at the chuck). The chuck should then unscrew freely.
Ok now... you have to restore the blue vise that you used to hold the block of wood... :) And you will have a complete set! Would love to see it orange like the drill is.
@@larissamonroe21092 Nooo! Vises can't be orange! BLUE is the color for vices! I don't know why, it's just the way it is. Like Blue is the color of every chaise lounge by every hotel pool in the world!
That material on the back of the bearing looks like felt, I think it needs to be put in oil so it can absorb it and then releases the oil lubricating the shaft.
Yes it's for absorbing oil. When the shaft turns the oil gets warm and released from the bearing, lubricating the shaft. When it cools down the oil is absorbed by the bearing again. It is called a oilite bearing.
Good work!! this machine looks like a star wars accesories. A good restoration. I have a drill Black & Decker BD162 (1990). Excellent machine! Thank you for share.
Wow! Gaby! I am so impressed! I threw away a Milwaukee drill. I wish I had seen this first. You're videos are very inspiring to stop living in a "throw away" society. Great job, my friend!!!
Cette vidéo tombe à pic je bien de récupérer cette belle perceuse à lancienne de mon grand père et je compte bien la restaurer Parfait 👌 Merci pour cette vidéo au top
Ive got one of these from when I first got married so it's 40 years old. It still works although I've not used it for 20 years because I suspect the bearings are worn. I used it with all kinds of attachments. I've lost the chuck in a couple of house moves though. Maybe I'll find some time to resurrect it.
I have same model.. yeah trigger went mental when pulling it apart. To remove a stuck chuck, put the chuck key in situ and give it a solid whack with a hammer... Worked for me. Good job on restoration 😁
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I have one of this, exact same model and everything. My grandpa bought it in the 80s and still today serves me as a perfect drill. Amazing tool
Same here, the chuck as a bit of play in it now, One day i will restore it
@@stuarts4673 i need new armature to repair it...hiks 😭😭
I lost the spring and washer under this little bearing😭😭
I borrowed one from my 80 years old neighbor here in France. I asked him for a tool to drill a wall (beton, cement) and he was nice enough to borrow it.
What I didn't know was that apparently this was a great mistake. I broke while I was drilling the wall, now I am in phucked up situation where I cannot find anyone to repair it so I can give it back to neighbor...
Was just using the same one yesterday, It belonged to my late father ....excellent and durable piece of equipment. Dad also had many of its accessories (Rotatory saw, sander and others) ... God bless your soul dad ..
My grandfathers one is the same design, but the all plastic model, and it's been sat inside our cupboard for years, just got it running again with a new cable, seems a lot better then modern drills
Brought my first Black and Decker drill in 1971. Variable speed, forward and reverse hammer drill. Still using it today. In that time, repaired cracked cable and a pair of brushes. Great video. Thanks
Oh, I have this exact same model. I inherited it from my grandfather and still use it sometimes. Old tools are just always superior to new ones in sturdiness and overall quality, even if they are technologically not up to date anymore. I inherited a whole wardrobe full of tools from my grandfather, most of them are several times as old as I am and they still perform their functions perfectly.
And one day I'll start restoring them just like you do. :)
I just want to say that I am bookmarking this video because of the wonderful comments with insightful suggestions. I generally use q cordless Craftsman drill these days, but I still have my old B&D plus a really nice, lightweight Rockwell I inherited from my father. The B&D is from the time when B&D went downhill and was/is making junk, but the old Rockwell is a honey and this video has inspired me to give it a new life. If either of my nephews or nieces show an interest in doing things that require a drill, I'll make a present of it. Until then, I'll put it back in service myself.
Ha, this is my very first drill. I did almost same job many times, and found how to remove bit holder.😉 Hold the drill on surface and put the bit holder key fully inserted, with a hammer hit on key counter clockwise direction. Thank you for video 👍
Black & decker D720...
Nearly everyone has had one of these...
A good way to bring dull plastics back is Tcut...
Next time you do one of these, shield the windings on the armature & field pack with a bit of ducting tape before putting the wire brush near em...
You can always carefully clean between the segments of the comm with a fine pick...
Try not to re-use old cords...they get hard with age....
Best to sack em off and fit new power cords to older electrical items like this...
Put a bit more grease in that gearbox...as you've got a void in the lower portion of it and once the grease warms up it'll all just drop down into it and not be picked up by any of the gears...
Look to fill the gearbox 1/2 full....no more...
The little gunmetal bushings are likely to be oillite...
Dunk em in a bucket of oil overnight to re-saturate em...
You've made a nice job of that and if you look after it that'll see you OK...
(they're only light duty drills...just bare that in mind)... 😊
Glenn
GLMelectrical
UK
some top tips there, mate!
Greetings, Glenn, from stateside. I recently did a half-assed rebuild of a 1930s drill for a guy I know ... he just wanted it to work, didn't give a rip about looks ... I put new carbon brushes in it (he couldn't find them) and repacked the gearbox. The grease was so solid it felt like resin, so I took it all out and refilled it close to full. Did I f*** up? And if so, can you explain?
Also, I had my local electric motor shop replace bearings in a 1-horse 1952 table saw motor. I asked them to make it modern, but they used the same wire it came with, which is very stiff and also seems small for the amps it's drawing. It runs, but I need to take it back and have them do some work? Any input is appreciated!
Edit: I'm an amateur who's just picked up a lot of things along the way.
@@willklusener9659
Hi.
As a rule I replace cords with new...
Cords are the one component of a piece of current using equipment that get the hardest life...
In regards CSA (Cross sectional area) :
You'd need to look at the rating plate...see what the wattage is...
A current usage calc can then be carried out by dividing the wattage by the voltage... 😉
Just because the supply current of a circuit is capable of delivering a certain amount of current within its design parameters...doesn't mean that anything plugged into it will draw the maximum currents that can be safely delivered by said circuit...
Cords are sized by manufacturers...and it would be unwise to go against a manufacturers instructions (which will often take presidence over regs such as BS7671, NEC etc)
For a 1HP single phase drive...i would use either a 1.5mm 2 core SWA...and use the armourings as the CPC...or a 3 core SWA...with one of the cores together with the armourings...
Or alternatively a bit of copex from the motor to the starter...pull in some 1.5mm singles...
Grease like most things will expand when hot...
So we don't fill gearboxes full with grease...enough to do its job...no more...
For ball & roller bearings the general rule is upto 11,000RPM in grease.. 22,000RPM in oil...
P. S.
If you like antique machine tools have a peep at my channel...
I've about 40 of em in storage... 😉
I still do :)
@@twotone3070
So...you've killed a few of these then in your time...
Come on...admit it...
"ere...listen...
I've burnt loads of these out...
That sound at the end gave me flashbacks of my old B&D I bought back in 1983. I ran that until if finally burned up drilling holes for wiring using a spade bit in 1999. Cost me 25 dollars, I think. Was heavy, but a great machine. Thanks for the vid!
I just "inherited" this exact drill from my father. It's running but really rough. I've opened it up and came here to see how to deal with the HUGE amount of grease in the front gears. Thank you for giving me the confidence to keep going. LOVE old tools!
Back in the day everyone’s dad had one of these. Happy memories.
Yup
My dad has one that's older than this - grey handle instead of orange. He's taken care of it, and it still works great - better than even today's cordless!
Litterally what I said in my head when i say the thumbnail - "my dad had that drill"
@@StephenGillie I have identical model.Bought it 1978 ish . Stripped cleaned,lubricated and just like new last week.
I inherited one from my Grandfather when he passed and I always buy these when I see them at flea markets!
Brought my B&D variable speed reversible hammer drill 48 years ago. Wore the chuck out, fitted a new one. Good as new. Chuck cost twice what the drill did! Fitted new brushes many years ago and cleaned the commutator. Nothing today is serviceable and ends up in bin. Lovely restoration.
This was one of the first drills I used. Think it it still in my Dad's shed. He passed away recently. Glad I found this restoration video. Reminded me of him and what he taught me. I might attempt a clean up of it and it will remind me of him. Thanks for sharing.
I had one of these when I was a lad for DIY. It probably cost me a weeks wages in those day. Today I probably could not afford the renovation. lol. Fascinating and great to read all the comments from the rocket scientists.
I have the same drill.. It belongs to my dad god bless him.. Your video will be a reference for fixing the drill.. Thank you ♥️
thank you for watching
Me too, I got mine in 1976! I also have the vertical drill stand for this drill. After seeing this video I might get it out and set it up full time on my work bench.
God bless your dad
@@raminprintery1973 thank you
The old all-metall B&D drill my dad must have bought in '57 when he built his house,and later, in the 80's, stashed in a locker at our cabin still runs smoothly and is a good back up for projects. However, this video made me realize I need to open the little beast, clean it, and see if it needs new brushes, grease, etc. Thanks.
You should never use emery paper on the copper commutator, it embeds carborundum in the copper and it will grind the brushes away fast. Use glass paper instead, the glass if it gets embedded in the copper is soft and will turn to dust when the motor is started. This is how we learnt to overhaul electric motors for use in aircraft.
thank you
Martindale electric do a comm stick for cleaning commutators...
You just touch it on...
@@stevesebzda570 Thanks, I use to overhaul starter motors, electric fuel and hydraulic pumps in the aircraft industry. First we would take a very light cut off the surface of the commutator in a lathe, this trues the com, then clean the grooves and burnish the edges (lightly) of the segments, and lastly polish the com with a fine glass paper and use the same glass paper reversed to bed in the radius of the new brushes. Other than demagnetising the fields and a continuity test that was all we would do.
@@stevesebzda570 I've sure there are other ways of doing the same thing, maybe the auto industry has a different process they use, with aircraft I always worked with the belief "Do it the right way first time, every time, and it wont come back to bite you" with aircraft parts it all came down to efficiency, aircraft parts would become less efficient with age, when a part showed ware it would be overhauled, some parts had a timed life and would be overhauled when it reached it's expiry time whether it was within spec or not. I use the same methods with my cars, tools and home appliances when effecting repairs. I still love to watch these tool restoration videos, there is always something new to learn.
@@stevesebzda570 If the scratches all run in the same direction around the commutator, not across the com, the brushes will bed them selves in with only a little ware at the beginning of the initial start up.
Just don't make the scratches to deep, that would reduce the surface contact between the brushes and the commutator and would produce arcing and extra heat.
I have 3 B&D drills from late 1970's all heavily scratched and working as new. All 3 have had the cable renewed and that's all! Amazing durability.
“Has no carbon brushes oh no”
Me: that’s not good
Also me: what’s a carbon brush
It's a little block of carbon, held in a little slide, and pushed by springs onto the commutator (the part of the armature (rotating part of the motor) which has electrical contacts. Electricity is supplied to the carbon brushes, which rub (brush) onto the commutator, which then supplies the windings on the armature with power.
I know this is an old video but I still love looking at it. My dad had a drill very like that in either the late 60’s or 70’s in Australia! Excellent restoration.
I have an old Black and Decker corded drill from the 80's (not this model though) and it still works to my knowledge. My Dad gave it to me when I moved out on my own along with a tackle box full of nails, screws, bolts, washers and such which I still also have after 25 years. I haven't use the drill in ages but they don't make stuff like they used to that's for sure.
yes you have right, only chinese cheap plastic
It is clear you´d never use an HILTI drill.
Hello from Chicago Illinois Pilsen !!!! 🇺🇸
I love how hitting most things actually makes them work again
Hitting people doesn’t work...
It's called Percussive Maintenance
Most famously used on old CRT TV sets with a bunny-ears antenna
Nice job ! Suddenly I'm back five decades. My D720H, the hammer drill variant, got the regrease and brush service annually, but not a repaint! The chuck screws off -- when assembled, select low speed, insert the chuck key and tap it firmly with a mallet (seen from rear, insert key on right and tap downwards). Though lightweight, a well maintained D720 would stand lots of rough use and just keep going. B&D 60's ads in UK papers were for a drill plus lots of ancillary kit, clearly aimed at amateurs, and competed with Wolf drills, but Makita, JCB, De Walt, Bosch, etc. came later AFAICR. Today's portable, reversible, multi-speed, keyless-chuck drills are amazing, but these old drills got the job done back in the day.
I, for one, think you did a pretty good job for someone self trained. The drill is now very useful thanks to your efforts. Good work and cheers.
I've still got me Dad's old blue 70s Black and Decker. I never remember it looking that good. It had attachments for a circular saw and grinder. Great piece of kit, might try bringing it back to life after watching that vid. Thanks. Brilliant video.
Great job! my dad left me an old 1980's BnD drill, still works still have it, don't use it cause I have a far better DeWalt... But after seeing this you motivated me to restore it, not gonna use it but someday I'll pass it to my kids.
Thank you for sharing your amazing work!
I have the same drill...just in gold color...from my grandad...but I need to restor it also....few months ago I plug in...and try to start it after 15 years in ...but sudendly something made a pok (maybe fuse?)...do you have any idea what went wrong? and what I need to replace...fuse?
Old black & Decker drills are getting rare now I really like the distinctive sound of when they wine and feel but back in the day they were the Makita and the DeWalt and everyone had one especially the orange one
I remember my dad had a very similar drill back in the 80s/90s, except his was blue, not orange. I remember the twist thing to change gear.
I recently bought one of those in mint condition at a second-hand shop, works great and you indeed need to twist a metal knob inwards or outwards to put it into hammer mode. I gotta say it works better than most drills do know and is build with really high quality
Yes my father also bought this model in the 1980s, memories.
Mine too
It's like my old tv & my brain...sometimes it needs a good beating for it to work. 🙂
This drill might be older than you think as I have one the same it was my first drill and I've had it since 1976 and when I bought it was second hand and still works perfectly till now although I've changed the Chuck as the old one gave up three years ago ... beautiful restoration good on you .
Sure from the seventies... I have worked for B&D Switzerland those days
Awesome to think that a restored drill from the 80's is still more than capable/usable today. So awesome!
Esplêndido, muito bom o seu trabalho. Me encanta seu perfeccionismo e organização dos objetos, simplesmente maravilhoso o que você faz.
Continue postando mais vídeos pois sou muito fã do seu trabalho.
Abraços aqui do Brazil.
I was actually able to repair mine by watching this. Thank you!
Very good job man! The end result looks perfect, seems to be brand new 👍 ...and yeah, the mr. Bean parts were so funny, specially the one after disassembling. I had to laugh so hard 😂
Brand new the only paint would be the off white on the gearbox
No matters what anyone does. No one can come even close to what you do MY Mechanics. You have a level of your own. Love from Pakistan
mr bean broke a mclaren f1
tu est francais ?
Dude! I like your videos👍🏽
I got something similar from my son who was throwing it away, it still works and I still use it! Excellent renovation!
17:26 Everything was so good here
, one of the screw is slotted type, the other is screw with philips type.
IKR?! Going to keep me awake at night now
I was very happy to see the drill. because I have the same model and brand. gift from my father and I still use it ... Nice..
I've used a few of them over the years only problem was that phosphor bronze bearing near the brushes gets really hot and melts the top of the drill. good video.
Wow, I've got one of those, bought back in UK around late 70s.
Not used much but still going fine.
I miss the days when B&D made a quality, dependable tool for the ages with enough torque to break a wrist! The crappy trite they sell today just isn't up to snuff
I work in Power Tools sales at a local hardware chain in my country. Main reason B&D ditched making the Trade/Commercial use tool is because the parent company Stanley Black and Decker bought DeWalt and made them the Top of the line, then slotted in Stanley Fatmax to be the Home DIY Brand. B&D today is the odd job here and there. It's awesome having older lads come in with 30+ year old power tools looking to order parts for em to get them going again. We sell a Makita Circ Saw that's been the same model Makita have sold for 30 odd years, it's amazing.
@@AzimuthKiwi It's just the same in the Computer business, only more so. The high end commercial (server) machines are built like a brick shithouse; the low-end consumer stuff is virtually stamped out in a printing press. Same goes for printers: there's so much competition that the basic unit is just a way to sell consumables. By the time you've bought 2 or three sets of cartridges you might as well have bought a new printer (and it's probably worn out with no parts available anyway).
I have a few 1980 black and decker tools my dad left me. The quality then was great back then. I still use the jigsaw several times a week.
The broken english really adds to the immersion
i love it how you remake this cable new out of itself, this look sooo incredible and satisfying
Love the sweet sound of metal and nothing in your videos.
thank you Abe😊
I'm speechless. That's hands and patience .... With respect from Russia
thank you so much 😊
I am starting a youtube channel where I take stuff apart and then leave it in a box in my garage for 20 years.
Nice
Nice
😂
😂😂😂😂
Thank you for making this video. I have an ancient Black and Decker drill that was owned by my grandfather and you have motivated me to fix it.
Nice work..I had a very similar Black and Decker drill,which I bought new in 1980..It was made in Germany,coloured aqua blue,called Titan,it had a hammer function on the two speed gearbox,a sort of scalloped ring behind the chuck,and a rotary speed control knob on the top of the drill body..worked well for many years but the bearings finally gave out and it started to get hot on one side as the armature was too close to the field ..was hard to get parts,but I finally did,..would have continued to serve me but someone stole it..
My dad had that model too! Remember it being in his shed. Great video
Thats realy Bad did you cry when it got stolen
Same thing in Australia. bearings wore out after using a wire brush on 12 square metres of wood lattice.
Nice job. I have exactly the same 2 speed orange BnD drill. It was my fathers and is still in use. Great quality drill.
You did a great job! Now, you can use the drill for another 40 years.
I've got one of them which I used the other day when the cordless was out of battery, not a bad drill, enough power to drill a 10mm hole in brass and next to no run out on the chuck
Herny👤💐💍🚗👫👙💋💜🐩
Really good looking restoration, the orange looks very nice.
4:08 "houston, we have liftoff" 🤣
I found this tool for free. Was amazed to find out that its over 10 years older than me. So good quality
Good job, have watched your video for about 3 months and have started with some restoration of old tools😎 keep up the good work😀
thank you so much 😊
TheJR1948 why? I do not believe it's right of you and make such an answer. but if you can come up with more answers as to why I will not follow TysyTube Restoration, i will be more then happy to read you answer:)
But for now i will follow his guidelines:)
That drill had been fed a few too many hot suppers! Thanks for the great content.
WELL DONE. I'll bet that drill didn't look as good as it does now as on the day it was bought.
Perfect view Maestro, I have a larger model B&D of 1976 made in Germany, yet the main bushings are too loose due to many-year hard service. Your job encouraged me to turn new ones, and revitalize my oldie for new duties!
thank you so much 😊
Btw: For future plastic restorations: You can use friction welding with 3D filament - put some filament in a Dremel, rub against plastic of same color (and type I guess) and it will bond. Not a fan of painting plastic.
This belongs in a museum.
когда я смотрю твои видео меня это так успокаивает ( если ты переведёшь это и прочитаешь, дай мне знать поставив лайк, мне будет приятно )))))
I am still using mine! Bought as a Christmas present about 35 years ago! Never misses a beat. Done nothing to it. except use it when all my, "state of the art" tools give up!!
😮
To tell the truth, always wondered what the inside of a drill looked like. Also, loved the metal and orange look ^_^/ Great job!!!
Nice restoration, varnish is better than plastic. Looks like new now. I like a drill that can be dismantled and repaired.
Couple of lessons . A man should know his thing like this guy. Do not throw away things. Instead , do what this artist does . And last but not the least , learn from this guy's work.
thank you Goohy for good words 😊
@ Goofy: absolutely, although we now live in a throwaway world unfortunately & Printers are a prime example of this flawed thinking.
in our disposable world, I love to see this kind of work. Now you have a drill that is better than almost anything you can buy these days.
“Something is wrong inside”, that made me laugh.
I have renovated a similar drill I inherited. I did maybe 10% of the work you did. Absolutely excellent!!
Fun fact, the brushless motor was actually invented in 1962.
Sterling silver shifter with silver gold jewelry
Sweet
I don't about "fun".
Stfu 😂
محمرا حمرخط
you made it better than when it was brand new. nice
According to B&D first remove the Jacobs chuck by inserting the key and striking it in a anti clockwise direction with a hammer which loosens the thread allowing removal
You’ve got write mate as I use to do the same thing with mine 🔫 years ago
not even 40 years ago. it was so beautiful. nice work
thank you so much 😊
Please keep in mind that the strain relief for the power cord was missing and no substitute was fitted (14:40). I would add this item. Best regards, Richard
Salut. J'ai la DNJ 84, que l'on m'a offert en 1973 et qui marche toujours impeccable.😍
ooo tre bien
I would have used a new capacitor. Great restore 👍
I have exactly same drill I got from my grandpa, same color even.
Always imagined it would be older!
That was the transitional model, heavyweight metal parts with a plastic handle, and the only reason they didn’t go all plastic was that testing was still being done on plastic gears in the late 70’s early 80’s and had not yet trusted their resilience
I have restored several of these B&D drills, but was surprised that you could not/did not want to remove the chuck. The procedure is to place the chuck key in position, then strike it sharply with a plastic-faced hammer, in an anti-clockwise direction (when looking at the chuck). The chuck should then unscrew freely.
Ok now... you have to restore the blue vise that you used to hold the block of wood... :) And you will have a complete set!
Would love to see it orange like the drill is.
Good idea
@@TysyTube I thought so... I like orange, that woudl be great to see.
I do love your videos, so please keep em coming! ***HUGGLES***
thank you 😊
@TheJR1948 Nahh.... this gives him reason to restore the vise now... he doesnt need to bolt it till he restores it ;P
@@larissamonroe21092 Nooo! Vises can't be orange! BLUE is the color for vices! I don't know why, it's just the way it is. Like Blue is the color of every chaise lounge by every hotel pool in the world!
Legendary drill my father has one of those with 3 extra accessories .
Vintage and precious.
That material on the back of the bearing looks like felt, I think it needs to be put in oil so it can absorb it and then releases the oil lubricating the shaft.
i think is for dust ?
@@TysyTube I suspect Andrei is correct: it's for lubrication of the back bearing of the motor shaft.
🤔
I think it's a bronze bushing which is porous and absorbs oil. Saw a similar thing in a fan which had 2 felt washers impregnated with oil.
Yes it's for absorbing oil. When the shaft turns the oil gets warm and released from the bearing, lubricating the shaft. When it cools down the oil is absorbed by the bearing again. It is called a oilite bearing.
My Dad has one of these and its still going. Nice restoration job
brushless motor in 1980....hmmm they kidding us 🤔 (joke)
but fact: 1st LED was build in 1960 ;-)
Good work!! this machine looks like a star wars accesories. A good restoration. I have a drill Black & Decker BD162 (1990). Excellent machine! Thank you for share.
Классно провода пометил: один - белым, а другой - белым! 3:58
Locks and works better than new, good job!
Hell yes I could take it apart, but could I reassemble it, hell no!!
If you make a video, you can always watch where everything goes.
@@paulw252 Sure, I've disassembled and "fixed"a few power tools, and I didn't take video but just series of photos of the procedure just in case.
Wow! Gaby! I am so impressed! I threw away a Milwaukee drill. I wish I had seen this first. You're videos are very inspiring to stop living in a "throw away" society. Great job, my friend!!!
one wood block was harmed in the making of this video
let us all have a moment of silence for block of wood
One day till retirement as well!
R.I.P
Cette vidéo tombe à pic je bien de récupérer cette belle perceuse à lancienne de mon grand père et je compte bien la restaurer
Parfait 👌
Merci pour cette vidéo au top
What can i say that i haven't said before, brilliant, never trust a middle aged man who owns a teddy bear. Tony,Australia.
K l k
ฟฌดเปิกอดฟห
I made the same restoration before one month! :) Its very good drill from my grandvater and will serve a lot of next decades again!!!
forgot the logo !!!! its iconic !!!!
thank you so much 😊
Love the Mr. Bean doll! Black and Decker isn't my favorite brand, but you did a great job restoring this!
It's a Russian drill - you have to hit it with a hammer to get it started ;)
Ive got one of these from when I first got married so it's 40 years old. It still works although I've not used it for 20 years because I suspect the bearings are worn. I used it with all kinds of attachments. I've lost the chuck in a couple of house moves though. Maybe I'll find some time to resurrect it.
Nice, but I cringed a bit when I saw you re-used the mismatched screws for the back cover ;-)
What annoyed me about it was that when he did, he swapped which side was which with the mismatched screws!
Wow. That's an old drill. My dad had one of those when I was just a kid, no later than the 1970s. Well done.
Why did you mark all the wires with the same color white? How did you not get them confused with each other?
i mark only one side
I have same model.. yeah trigger went mental when pulling it apart. To remove a stuck chuck, put the chuck key in situ and give it a solid whack with a hammer... Worked for me. Good job on restoration 😁
thank you so much 😊