Tell me how you answered these questions and what wheelsets they led you to? Did you choose a different wheelset than you thought you would before answering the questions?
Brilliant video dude and spot on with all your points everyone should watch this before looking at new wheels.. well done for putting this together and such a great explanation 10/10 👍 Pete 🚴🏻👍
My q is about hubs. My new 2025 bike comes with a PAWL vs some ratchet ones out there. Will a nicer DT Swiss ratchet hub make my bike smoother/ easier to pedal or roll faster per pedal stroke?
I'm fortunate enough to own a few customized wheelsets and prefer them over pre-built brands. I get to choose what parts goes into the wheels and most important brass nipples. If I had to choose which of my wheelsets I consider all around it would be my aluminum wheels. They are just built to last even though heavier than my carbons my performance and ride style doesn't require me to ride fast. Solo riding 99% of the time. The cost of a premium custom built aluminum wheelset is still cheaper than mid-tier carbon rims. As I look at prices and compare, its a no brainer to go custom built when youre looking at $1500+ wheels outside of racing.
Great video you steered me away from looking at a more budget option will have to save more though as I am looking to buy my first new bike in 12 years coming from circa 2012 Dura Ace mechanical rim brake bikes
Couple of things I come to notice after getting a disc brake thru axle bike with Zipp 303FC's compared to my rim brake QR Campy WTO 45's (and my other 3 sets of previous Campy wheels). On my Campy wheels the bearing pre-load cam be set independently of QR torque, where as on the disc brake Zipp's, the thru-axle torque impacts bearing drag via the end caps. In other words, I can make my ZIpp's spin longer by reducing the thru axle tightness. Not to mention my Zipp bearings were rusted and needed replacing after about 4000 miles. The other thing is bearing serviceability - Campy cup/cone bearings are super easy to maintain, service and adjust. Almost all other wheels require bearing removal and installation. Both of the above things are critical for any wheel, but always ignored by reviewers and consumers alike.
WELL DONE FOR BUYING CAMPAGNOLO!!! WHY DO PEOPLE BUY SHIMA(NO!)? ALL MY BIKES ARE ALL COLNAGO OR BIANCHI WITH CAMPAGNOLO SUPER RECORD EPS 12-SPEED DISC & RIM! MY WHEELS ARE WTO OR WTO BORA!
I choose my purchases strictly on price. I know I'm always going to want something new after a season or two just because I like new stuff. When I watch reviewers talk about wheels I'm not influenced by all their buzz words.
I've built a number of wheels over the years. My priority is durabiliy. Spoke breaker here! Built a 36 spoke wheel for my track bike. No longer do group rides due to a reckless rider who caused me serious injury. My adventure bike came with 28 spoke wheels. I use this one for loaded touring. At 230lbs, my priorities were simple. Seido Magnon!(Bombtrack) 32 triple butted spokes, 5mm offset aluminum rims. Hubs with contact seals, 11 speed Shimano type freehub. Don't trust Shimano Microspline. Tubeless ready, but don't want a sealant mess or maintenance. 2x drivetrain a must. Gatorskins or Continental urban tires. Hey, with 32mm tires the tires measure more than 34mm. Measure even more with Urbans. Speed, aero....no! With panniers, fenders, high stack height, certainly not. Sealant is also hell on spoke nipples, eventualy. 6 bolt disks are easy for changing spokes, because a Stein tool doesn't work for centerlocks. For all my needs and the crazy low price $500 I paid, toughness has been worth it. 40 years past my prime. Aero what?
Beau, take a look in the description box for my review of the best all-around and other types of wheels. FYI, I put the Zipp 303 FC an all-road wheelset category as it's good for road and gravel. Cheers, Steve
@intheknowcycling ok thanks yes, I saw your other videos. Do you think the Zipp 454 NSW is worth the extra dollars you pay compared to the Zipp 303 Firecrest. As in, do you notice much difference between the two wheelsets worth the extra dollars?
@@Sign_Hero For the riding I do - my goals, performance level, and riding profile - I notice a huge performance difference on the roads I ride and events I do. The value of that difference depends on one's budget. If your budget can handle it, consider my 30% +/- 10% wheelset price as a % of the bike price as a guideline. Cheers 😀
Any thoughts on when a high-end custom-made aluminum wheel set is a higher quality wheel set compared to carbon? As you’ve said on a few of the other comments, there are lots of variables, but from what I see from a few reputable, aluminum rim manufacturers, such as astral, and velocity, there isn’t always that much of a difference between the weight between the aluminum and carbon rims. Having asked this, even the consideration of aluminum wheels Wood probably qualify me as more of an enthusiast. I am in the process of building up a Fairlight Secan And have a dynamo wheelset With a white industries rear hub. The rims are Carbon from Reserve, A now discontinued labeled 650 B 25 mm internal diameter rim. Looking to buy a comparable 700c dynamo wheel set with a white industries hub on a carbon rim when factory in the cassette and rotor would be over a $3000 wheel set. I’m not sure if I will ever actually need to buy a second wheel set for the bike, but I feel that it would be hard to justify that purchase once again Using your recommended rule of a real set passing 30% plus -10% of the bike, The base model complete bike cost Around US$3000 for a reynolds 853 framed complete bike. The component has chosen for the build push that figure for the total bike value of probably closer to six to $7000.01 factored in the wheels. Do you have any thoughts from my long winded Comment and question? Thanks :-)
Nathanael, Performance matters more than your choice of materials (carbon vs. alloy) and components (White vs. DT Swiss or other brands of hubs). And your goals and riding profile determine the performance level you'll need (and shouldn't pay any more for). I also would disregard manufacturers' claims. So my thoughts are that you should revise the way you are going about choosing wheels and revisit your answers to the questions I posed in the vid. Steve
Thanks for the response. For clarity, what do you mean by “ Performance matters more than your choice of materials (carbon vs. alloy) and components (White vs. DT Swiss or other brands of hubs).”? I think what spurred this question was that you talked about high-performance as well as high value we all sets, but all of that was mentioned in the video were carbon fiber. Do you have any recommendations on any high-quality aluminum wheels or rims and what makes a high-quality aluminum rim compared to a high-quality carbon rim? I guess I may just need to buy a pair and find out for myself :-)
I did until about five years ago when most enthusiast-level bikes started coming with disc brakes. Around the same time, suppliers that improve wheelset performance either stopped making rim brake wheels or stopped improving them. There's little new to say about them and fewer to review from widely available and supported brands I would recommend.
I have two handbuilt wheelsets from the same builder. Both use the same hubs and spokes, but one is 25 mm deep alloy, and the other 37 mm mid depth carbon. The carbon are a similar weight, and possibly ever so slightly faster, but unfortunately, they are incredibly uncomfortable. I've stopped riding them and now stick with the alloy. Can't say it was worth paying double for the carbon wheels, based on comfort alone, and it's put me off trying any other carbon wheels. Maybe i was unlucky 🤔
I'm sorry to read that. That's unfortunate. Your experience illustrates the problem with buying custom-built wheels. You have an expectation but no real idea how they will perform, as no one can review a bespoke wheelset before it's been built. You are buying a wheelset after providing the spec s(e.g. 37mm deep) and features (carbon) you've provided rather than buying the performance characteristics you want (e.g. comfort, aero) based on the reviews of a known wheelset model made over and over again.
Tell me how you answered these questions and what wheelsets they led you to? Did you choose a different wheelset than you thought you would before answering the questions?
The best wheels is the one you've been wanting for the longest time and then they finally went on sale during Black Friday.
Brilliant video dude and spot on with all your points everyone should watch this before looking at new wheels.. well done for putting this together and such a great explanation 10/10 👍 Pete 🚴🏻👍
Thanks 👍
Love your style mate, very informative and helpful:)
Very nice job, thanks!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Very well thought out information. I appreciate it. I just ordered some new wheels.
That's awesome! Enjoy ‘em
My q is about hubs. My new 2025 bike comes with a PAWL vs some ratchet ones out there. Will a nicer DT Swiss ratchet hub make my bike smoother/ easier to pedal or roll faster per pedal stroke?
I'm fortunate enough to own a few customized wheelsets and prefer them over pre-built brands. I get to choose what parts goes into the wheels and most important brass nipples. If I had to choose which of my wheelsets I consider all around it would be my aluminum wheels. They are just built to last even though heavier than my carbons my performance and ride style doesn't require me to ride fast. Solo riding 99% of the time. The cost of a premium custom built aluminum wheelset is still cheaper than mid-tier carbon rims.
As I look at prices and compare, its a no brainer to go custom built when youre looking at $1500+ wheels outside of racing.
Great video you steered me away from looking at a more budget option will have to save more though as I am looking to buy my first new bike in 12 years coming from circa 2012 Dura Ace mechanical rim brake bikes
Please do a video or two on alloy gravel wheels that are durable and kind of heavy!! Thanks😁
Good idea! I'll add that to the list.
Hunt 4 Season, bullet proof tubeless and wonderful
Couple of things I come to notice after getting a disc brake thru axle bike with Zipp 303FC's compared to my rim brake QR Campy WTO 45's (and my other 3 sets of previous Campy wheels). On my Campy wheels the bearing pre-load cam be set independently of QR torque, where as on the disc brake Zipp's, the thru-axle torque impacts bearing drag via the end caps. In other words, I can make my ZIpp's spin longer by reducing the thru axle tightness. Not to mention my Zipp bearings were rusted and needed replacing after about 4000 miles.
The other thing is bearing serviceability - Campy cup/cone bearings are super easy to maintain, service and adjust. Almost all other wheels require bearing removal and installation.
Both of the above things are critical for any wheel, but always ignored by reviewers and consumers alike.
WELL DONE FOR BUYING CAMPAGNOLO!!!
WHY DO PEOPLE BUY SHIMA(NO!)?
ALL MY BIKES ARE ALL COLNAGO OR BIANCHI WITH CAMPAGNOLO SUPER RECORD EPS 12-SPEED DISC & RIM!
MY WHEELS ARE WTO OR WTO BORA!
I choose my purchases strictly on price. I know I'm always going to want something new after a season or two just because I like new stuff. When I watch reviewers talk about wheels I'm not influenced by all their buzz words.
I find my pretty light 1500 gram wheels hold me back above 22 mph but really expensive to try out 60 mm wheels
I've built a number of wheels over the years. My priority is durabiliy. Spoke breaker here! Built a 36 spoke wheel for my track bike. No longer do group rides due to a reckless rider who caused me serious injury. My adventure bike came with 28 spoke wheels. I use this one for loaded touring. At 230lbs, my priorities were simple. Seido Magnon!(Bombtrack) 32 triple butted spokes, 5mm offset aluminum rims. Hubs with contact seals, 11 speed Shimano type freehub. Don't trust Shimano Microspline. Tubeless ready, but don't want a sealant mess or maintenance. 2x drivetrain a must. Gatorskins or Continental urban tires. Hey, with 32mm tires the tires measure more than 34mm. Measure even more with Urbans. Speed, aero....no! With panniers, fenders, high stack height, certainly not. Sealant is also hell on spoke nipples, eventualy. 6 bolt disks are easy for changing spokes, because a Stein tool doesn't work for centerlocks. For all my needs and the crazy low price $500 I paid, toughness has been worth it. 40 years past my prime. Aero what?
That sounds like a great set up for you.
Hi Mate,
Which was your favourite all-around carbon road wheel?
I currently use the Zipp firecrest 303 on my BMC Teammachine SLR01
Regards,Beau
Beau, take a look in the description box for my review of the best all-around and other types of wheels. FYI, I put the Zipp 303 FC an all-road wheelset category as it's good for road and gravel. Cheers, Steve
@intheknowcycling ok thanks yes, I saw your other videos. Do you think the Zipp 454 NSW is worth the extra dollars you pay compared to the Zipp 303 Firecrest. As in, do you notice much difference between the two wheelsets worth the extra dollars?
@@Sign_Hero For the riding I do - my goals, performance level, and riding profile - I notice a huge performance difference on the roads I ride and events I do. The value of that difference depends on one's budget. If your budget can handle it, consider my 30% +/- 10% wheelset price as a % of the bike price as a guideline. Cheers 😀
@@intheknowcycling ok thanks for the tip:)
Any thoughts on when a high-end custom-made aluminum wheel set is a higher quality wheel set compared to carbon? As you’ve said on a few of the other comments, there are lots of variables, but from what I see from a few reputable, aluminum rim manufacturers, such as astral, and velocity, there isn’t always that much of a difference between the weight between the aluminum and carbon rims.
Having asked this, even the consideration of aluminum wheels Wood probably qualify me as more of an enthusiast. I am in the process of building up a Fairlight Secan And have a dynamo wheelset With a white industries rear hub. The rims are Carbon from Reserve, A now discontinued labeled 650 B 25 mm internal diameter rim. Looking to buy a comparable 700c dynamo wheel set with a white industries hub on a carbon rim when factory in the cassette and rotor would be over a $3000 wheel set. I’m not sure if I will ever actually need to buy a second wheel set for the bike, but I feel that it would be hard to justify that purchase once again
Using your recommended rule of a real set passing 30% plus -10% of the bike, The base model complete bike cost Around US$3000 for a reynolds 853 framed complete bike. The component has chosen for the build push that figure for the total bike value of probably closer to six to $7000.01 factored in the wheels.
Do you have any thoughts from my long winded Comment and question?
Thanks :-)
Nathanael, Performance matters more than your choice of materials (carbon vs. alloy) and components (White vs. DT Swiss or other brands of hubs). And your goals and riding profile determine the performance level you'll need (and shouldn't pay any more for). I also would disregard manufacturers' claims. So my thoughts are that you should revise the way you are going about choosing wheels and revisit your answers to the questions I posed in the vid. Steve
Thanks for the response. For clarity, what do you mean by “ Performance matters more than your choice of materials (carbon vs. alloy) and components (White vs. DT Swiss or other brands of hubs).”?
I think what spurred this question was that you talked about high-performance as well as high value we all sets, but all of that was mentioned in the video were carbon fiber. Do you have any recommendations on any high-quality aluminum wheels or rims and what makes a high-quality aluminum rim compared to a high-quality carbon rim? I guess I may just need to buy a pair and find out for myself :-)
I want my bike to look expensive without being expensive.. And I want speed and comfort.. I’m willing to accept some weakness..
Is there any reason you don't review wheels for rim brakes?
I did until about five years ago when most enthusiast-level bikes started coming with disc brakes. Around the same time, suppliers that improve wheelset performance either stopped making rim brake wheels or stopped improving them. There's little new to say about them and fewer to review from widely available and supported brands I would recommend.
No. Ratchet hubs require less maintenance but most with pawls don’t require much.
I have two handbuilt wheelsets from the same builder. Both use the same hubs and spokes, but one is 25 mm deep alloy, and the other 37 mm mid depth carbon. The carbon are a similar weight, and possibly ever so slightly faster, but unfortunately, they are incredibly uncomfortable. I've stopped riding them and now stick with the alloy. Can't say it was worth paying double for the carbon wheels, based on comfort alone, and it's put me off trying any other carbon wheels. Maybe i was unlucky 🤔
I'm sorry to read that. That's unfortunate. Your experience illustrates the problem with buying custom-built wheels. You have an expectation but no real idea how they will perform, as no one can review a bespoke wheelset before it's been built. You are buying a wheelset after providing the spec s(e.g. 37mm deep) and features (carbon) you've provided rather than buying the performance characteristics you want (e.g. comfort, aero) based on the reviews of a known wheelset model made over and over again.