Got a bike that had one of these. Man was the engine cooked. Bought a new stock cam and it runs with enough power for me. Starts a hell of a lot better too
Please correct it’s the T mark! Put it somewhere in the Title or whatever because i believed you and didn’t look in the manual and bent my exhaust valves
thanks for the video mate, VERRY helpfull and you saved me a world of hurt on my xr250. "lobes facing downward" was exactly what I was looking for, and for the life of me I couldn't find it in the manual. I believe its also it's 20NM not foot pounds.
You're right. At the time of the video I was looking at the wrong mark on the (flywheel?) I corrected it before putting the cover back on and it lines up dead level. Good looking out!
Why is the open side of the bearing pointed to the sprocket and not the closed one? If it's the other way around the oil from the reservoir would soak it all the time, instead of only being sprayed oil through luck...
With my brother-in-law, we once had a screw inside the engine .. moments of horror because the calculation of the cost of buying the gaskets fired, only after a few minutes I came up with the idea that you can turn the engine upside down and shake the screw out, which we did with success.
Hola, tengo una transalp 600 con motor restaurado entero. Las marcas en el arbol de distribución esta. Como en tu video,no estan totalmente paralelas . ¿ Sabes por que sucede eso? Grcaias.
i have hotcams/stage 1 camsaft on my nx -90, ive drove with it like only 5000tkm and now the engile have started to make some "tickin noice" and one of my valves on cylider cap just keeps come loose in like 100km driving even after when i have tighten it again
That don't sound good?? Been thinking about a port/polish and a valve job on my fmx650 same engine but I'm not sold on hotcams, there are companies that do a stage 1&2 exchange cams with decomp for around £250 half that for US.. I do have a mikuni tm40 carb dna filter and titanium mivv gp's had dyno&carb carb set up runs like a dream
That plunger and spring, does that hole need any further maintenance or block off? Didnt know if it would affect oil pressure to other areas of the too end.
Did you have any problems with the camshaft eaten up the rocker arms cuz I have a hot cam in my bike and I set up the same way you got yours and stuff I even put extra oil on the cam and I also put some other stuff on there to keep it so it has lubrication with it starts up cuz there's no oil going up there yet all right let me know okay thank you
pretty sure you can still use the manual decompression it runs on the left side of cam exhaust looking down forward from top of bike.auto decom runs on the right side of cam .Imagine trying to start it cold without the manual decom...no thanks.
hola...soy de argentina...veo que anulaste el descompresor y el anti retorno...mi preocupacion es si arranca bien y si el motor de arranque haga mucho esfuerzo ...
Sorry man this bike is long gone but there are so many forums on these bikes, I'm sure someone has done a walk through of it or at least something close
Just pull the blocking pin and then rotate the axle while pulling. Putting it back is the harder part. I use a screwdriver to push the spring in place before manouvring it to the right position to push/rotate the axle back...
I tried the screwdriver method to push the spring down. What worked better was using a zip tie to hold the spring down as I placed it in. This worked great! Primary difficulty, when you cut the zip tie away, make sure to cut it so that when you pull the zip tie out, it doesn’t zip through the zip tie. Cut it so that pulling on it pulls the whole zip tie out. That way you don’t risk dropping plastic into the head.
Timing chain tensioner wasn't installed which would have brought them to the correct position. The engine would also need 2 full revolutions to see exactly where everything was truly sitting. Considering this wasn't 100% installed, the marks were indeed in the correct position if the timing mark was lined up on the "T" on the mag which would TDC. This is also noted in the comments here that he had it sitting at "F" on the mag which is also not correct but was corrected and they were indeed right at TDC.
Got a bike that had one of these. Man was the engine cooked. Bought a new stock cam and it runs with enough power for me. Starts a hell of a lot better too
Probably because it had different valve springs and rockers. These are meant for oem valve train
Please correct it’s the T mark! Put it somewhere in the Title or whatever because i believed you and didn’t look in the manual and bent my exhaust valves
thanks for the video mate, VERRY helpfull and you saved me a world of hurt on my xr250. "lobes facing downward" was exactly what I was looking for, and for the life of me I couldn't find it in the manual. I believe its also it's 20NM not foot pounds.
How did you like the power differences with cam swap? And also how did the bike start with out the decompression on the hot cam thanks
You're right. At the time of the video I was looking at the wrong mark on the (flywheel?) I corrected it before putting the cover back on and it lines up dead level. Good looking out!
Could u tell me the correct timing please
?
@@jhoncenatus4682 I don't have the bike anymore, sorry
@@jhoncenatus4682 it’s the T mark
Looks like you're off a tooth, unless your crank was not at TDC?
Why is the open side of the bearing pointed to the sprocket and not the closed one?
If it's the other way around the oil from the reservoir would soak it all the time, instead of only being sprayed oil through luck...
With my brother-in-law, we once had a screw inside the engine .. moments of horror because the calculation of the cost of buying the gaskets fired, only after a few minutes I came up with the idea that you can turn the engine upside down and shake the screw out, which we did with success.
Hola, tengo una transalp 600 con motor restaurado entero. Las marcas en el arbol de distribución esta. Como en tu video,no estan totalmente paralelas . ¿ Sabes por que sucede eso? Grcaias.
Great Video. Good explanation
Great that your not scared to get amongst it
i have hotcams/stage 1 camsaft on my nx -90, ive drove with it like only 5000tkm and now the engile have started to make some "tickin noice" and one of my valves on cylider cap just keeps come loose in like 100km driving even after when i have tighten it again
That don't sound good?? Been thinking about a port/polish and a valve job on my fmx650 same engine but I'm not sold on hotcams, there are companies that do a stage 1&2 exchange cams with decomp for around £250 half that for US.. I do have a mikuni tm40 carb dna filter and titanium mivv gp's had dyno&carb carb set up runs like a dream
That plunger and spring, does that hole need any further maintenance or block off? Didnt know if it would affect oil pressure to other areas of the too end.
Good afternoon, excellent video. Please some of you may tell me, ¿what number have the cam shaft bearing in each bearing. much thank.
6904
Did you have any problems with the camshaft eaten up the rocker arms cuz I have a hot cam in my bike and I set up the same way you got yours and stuff I even put extra oil on the cam and I also put some other stuff on there to keep it so it has lubrication with it starts up cuz there's no oil going up there yet all right let me know okay thank you
This was awhile ago, but I don't recall having any oil consumption issues
Very cool. Gonna need you to help me replace my cam chain tensioner.
=)
Braaaap Braaaap!!!
Good night want to get a cam for my xr 650l
Aren’t you supposed to weld that decompression hole????
Molly Buh Denim!!!
Appreciate your review and install. What made you pick the stage 1 vs. the stage 2?
Stage 2 involves valve springs and other more in-depth things if I recall, and I wasn't really trying to go full race bike lol
You serious? I'll gladly help, just surprised a master mechanic such as yourself would ask an n00b like me D: Lol
Need descompresionador ????
Can you take the decomposing lever off when you have a hot cam in???
Lee The rider for life If I remember correctly, you remove the decompression pin altogether, as the new cam doesnt even use it
pretty sure you can still use the manual decompression it runs on the left side of cam exhaust looking down forward from top of bike.auto decom runs on the right side of cam .Imagine trying to start it cold without the manual decom...no thanks.
hola...soy de argentina...veo que anulaste el descompresor y el anti retorno...mi preocupacion es si arranca bien y si el motor de arranque haga mucho esfuerzo ...
Es encendido de patada, no tiene motor de arranque
Braaaap!
Cool, yeah, T, not F. I've got an '87 XL600R. Surprising how much they haven't changed...
Bro does it need porting if changing to stage 1 rcamshaft
I don't believe so. It's been a few years, but if I remember right stage 1 just needs a rejetting of the carb
Bro I need a video on how to put mine in. I’m not a mechanic but I really need a step by step video to put in my stage one hot cam
Sorry man this bike is long gone but there are so many forums on these bikes, I'm sure someone has done a walk through of it or at least something close
did it run better with the new cam??
+Robert York It was difficult to tell due to a lot of upgrades being done all at once. It did pull harder for longer, though on acceleration.
Ok cool thanks for the info
Robert York _
Do you have a video about chain tensioner removal perhaps?
Just pull the blocking pin and then rotate the axle while pulling.
Putting it back is the harder part.
I use a screwdriver to push the spring in place before manouvring it to the right position to push/rotate the axle back...
I tried the screwdriver method to push the spring down. What worked better was using a zip tie to hold the spring down as I placed it in. This worked great! Primary difficulty, when you cut the zip tie away, make sure to cut it so that when you pull the zip tie out, it doesn’t zip through the zip tie. Cut it so that pulling on it pulls the whole zip tie out. That way you don’t risk dropping plastic into the head.
Apunto puento
Molybdenum - "mall-lib-den-numb"
TDC is fucked up in this video! At least 2-3 mm.
Timing chain tensioner wasn't installed which would have brought them to the correct position. The engine would also need 2 full revolutions to see exactly where everything was truly sitting. Considering this wasn't 100% installed, the marks were indeed in the correct position if the timing mark was lined up on the "T" on the mag which would TDC. This is also noted in the comments here that he had it sitting at "F" on the mag which is also not correct but was corrected and they were indeed right at TDC.
great wrong sustitution depressing system
Sorry, not sure what the sustitution depressing system is?
quelle vidéo ennuyeuse, on n'apprend rien en plus !!
God what a waist of 7 min
You still watched it tho
Need descompresionador???