How to do bridge reglue on an acoustic guitar
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- Опубліковано 8 гру 2015
- I decided to make a video on how i glue a bridge back on an acoustic guitar. This bridge had already come off the guitar however I will still be sharing some of the tricks, tools and tips I use during the process. I also decided to leave in some sections of video where things were just not going as planned so you can see how i handled the situation. Enjoy!
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I had a bridge lifting up at the low E end.
I didn't have money to buy clamps so I used a bolt the size of the string peg hole with two wide washers two rubber fender washers and a wing nut.
Shot some wood glue under the bridge tightened the wing nut.
It actually worked well..
Smart idea‼️😎👍
Wow i know it’s been a long time but that’s very clever! Thanks
I know nothing about guitar repair but can appreciate this attention to detail. Fantastic.
Thanks for this. This is exactly what I was looking for.
I must have been watching way too many guitar repair videos. However, I'm glad I have. When this popped up in my feed it was quite a surprise to learn there was a luthier with my name out there. Nice work, and appropriate since I need to re-mount the bridge on my old Ventura. All the best from another James Hood 😁
Jim Hood Hi Jim! I have learned that there are many of us! Glad to be of some help 👍
Great vid. I have a Guild D40 just like this one (1964 w/fan type bracing). Reglued the bridge years ago (prior to internet). Wish I’d been able to see this back then. 😊
Thanks! Is the bridge still on the guitar after all this time? :0)
Thank you for sharing - perfect job
Liked your video very much. Easy going common sense advice. Thank you for taking the time to produce it. Russ
That was awesome! I do pretty much everything you did. I do use a straw to help with clean up. If you pinch the end it makes a nice edge
steve beaver Yes a straw works great for glue clean up 👍
Really cool. This Helped me a lot
What a cool vibe you have and thank you for the vid!
Thanks for the compliment and your welcome!
@@JamesHoodGuitar Keep the videos coming, we appreciate it!
Thanks James, nice video! I do have a question about clamping pressure. How do you know when you have the right pressure on the clamps?
Just a few things I noticed here. Every Guild dread I have ever seen or owned has “x” bracing. Thus in order to properly clamp a bridge, i have made a variety of inside clamping cauls so that I don’t damage the bracing, and also so the clamp doesn’t walk on me when the inside clamp point is different from the point on the bridge. Also, I have never seen a bridge reglued with the saddle in place. That just makes the job a lot harder to do. On all of the Guilds I have worked on, the bridges are not flat on the bottom but slightly curved, as are the tops. I had the misfortune of the clamps being able to pull the top to match a flat bottom bridge, which ends up looking like the top is bulging under the wings. I use a 6” machinists rule to shoot the bottom of a bridge and the top area to determine how much to relieve the bridge. It is way too easy to thin the bridge unevenly with a belt sander, and you cannot get the relief correct at all. On several of the neck resets I have done, (all of them actually) I had to make a new bridge because the bridge and saddle were already so thin, that there was no break angle left in the strings over the saddle. That is where I realized the there is a bottom curve on Guild bridges. Martins too. As thin as this bridge was and as low as the saddle was, it might be neck reset time. I know some customers don’t want to spend the money, but its the only way to really get the setup right. Interestingly, I learned most of this by experience, and by watching a ton of UA-cam videos from repair luthiers.
Hey, thank you for the great video! I am really curious though as to why you didn't remove the saddle, then you could have made a wider caul for that portion of the bridge, and it subsequently would have given more gluing pressure to the bridge. Keep'em coming thank you! Merry Christmas!
Thanks Harry! I thought about adding music over the body scraping but I didn't for some reason. I must be use to the nails on chalk board sound. ;-)
Oh DAMN! Wish you had given me a warning before the SSSSCCCRRRAAAPPPPIIINNNGGG began!!!!! I had my headphones on!
So Sorry about that Ian.
It sounds worse in this video than it does in person.
When the glue has dried, did you able to pull out the bridge pins? There's even a squirt of glue on the pin when you finish clamping.
Do you use cauls on the inside of the guitar tool? Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hello, great video. I have an old Kay parlor guitar. The bridge was bolted down on top of the guitar's finish with no glue. It has lifted up and I have removed the bridge. I want to glue it down and re-bolt it. Is there a glue that will bond the wood bridge to the guitar's glossy finish, or should I remove the finish (fairly thick)? thanks for your help.
Very helpful I'm a beginner guitar restoring guy . Thing is I glued my bridge on with my string on and didn't get an even amount of pressure on my bridge
The perfect place to work at!
Thanks for the information.
Glad it helped! Thanks Jeremiah!
Excellent Craftsmanship.
It's a good idea to scarify both surfaces. I use a 3/4 " chisel to scrape against the grain of the top to open up the grain a little, and run the bridge over some 100 grit a few passes, again, to give the glue something to hold on to.
guy saunders yes that is an option yep.
Amazing Thanks, but how many hours we need to wait to unclamp?
Can you hear while playing the guitar if you’re bridge is glued on well?
or if there are places with to much glue and not enough contact? Or doesn’t it impact the sound?
What’s the glue, is it transparent when it’s dry?
Quick question..
Just wondering what is the best glue to use in your experience?
What about those bridge pins, are you removing them before the glue sets completly?
9:26 when you left home and forgot to feed the dogs
I have to do this exact thing. I have a cheaper Ibanez acoustic. Looks like the same bridge. Those plugs for the strings are really hard to get out to change..
When I was at the store the guy looked at it and checked to see how level it was or something? Idk, but eventually I'd like to do this to get all the strings back on it.
That's cool!!
I would heat the glue with a spat. How can you match exactly to the top?
Good shew mate!! Cheers! Gb
I want to "remove" a bridge off a fender cd60 acoustic. What is the best way to get it off, without damaging the guitar body?
Thanks.
can you add another finish layer and glue the bridge to this added finsih layer instead of glue direct to wood?
Since the guitar did not have an x-brace which made it difficult to position the clamp in the middle, would it have not been easier to move the two pegs to the holes for the D&G strings so you could position two clamps left and right of them? Just a thought.
That's a great idea. What made it difficult was the slope on the back side of the bridge. So that is why i had to shim the blocks up. This guitar does have an X brace as well.
If you remove the finish in some guitars this make small space so the bridge cannot sit direct to the wood what can you do to fill this gap with glue?
had someone glued the saddle in?
James...Is that a nylon brush and water you are using for clean-up?
Always thought repairs should be made with hide glue. Is this correct?
Sometimes we use hide glue and sometimes Titebond. Just an m16 nylon cleaning brush dipped in water to help clean up squeeze out yep.
Are you against titebond 3 on this application?
Ha! 1000th subscriber!
Thank you very much for that!! We appreciate that very much!!
a silly question , how stick and stable can a normally glued guitar neck be? can i damage it just by my hands using some force?
Yes. Should the fancy take you to engage in a game of cricket using your guitar as a bat and a basketball just for shits 'n giggles, you might find yourself of a split mind as to whether or not that was a good choice. On such days, I recommend reaching for a neck-thru-body design for added structural integrity.
I am no Luthier but spent twenty years in a custom cabinet shop and have glued up thousands of board feet of lumber for panels and such. I see many videos of this repair on UA-cam and most everyone goes really heavy on the glue. Squeeze out is what you want but too much glue is as bad as not enough. Is there something I am missing when it come to this kind of glue up?
Do you use any cauls on the underside of the bridge?
matthew phillips yes we do use large blocks on the center clamps so the clamp body can clear the bracing and the pressure is spread out more evenly across the bridge plate and then we use thin blocks about 1/4” on the clamps for the wings so we don’t mark up the X bracing. 🗜
I have a bridge lift on my Alvarez Yairi DY88. Your video has been quite helpful. The problem with this guitar is that there is no sound hole. Do you or anyone else reading this have any idea how I can work around this?
thebohemiangroove I believe the back is flat on the dy88. You will need to use deep throat cam clamps between the back and the top of the bridge you are gluing on. Make sure to use a large caul or plate of some sort between the back and where your clamps make contact with the back so you don’t crack the back of your guitar. Feel free to call the shop and I can explain this to you in more detail.
@@JamesHoodGuitar Thanks so much for the reply. I really appreciate it. We'll see how it goes
Was the saddle glued in?
How many days do you let it still??
Why didn't you use hot hide glue, or Franklin hide glue?
What type of glue are you using? Thanks!
The original Tight bond wood glue is water soluble after it’s dry, so you could remove the bridge a lot easier later if you need to. I’ve heard it’s stronger than hide glue, so should not be a problem.
I have a 12 string kawaii acoustic guitar that was left in a house to be cleaned , some moron cut the back bridge off along with some of the face of the guitar where the bridge goes how can it be fixed, I love the sound of 12 strings, any suggestions i would appreciate it. Thanks Daniel
Daniel Eastland send some pics to james@jameshoodguitar.com and I can tell you more
@@JamesHoodGuitar ok James I will get a pic for you
What is your email address
Would it be easier to seat the bridge for gluing without the saddle in place ? Cheers!
Yes. It’s generally easier to place the cauls with out a saddle in a bridge however, this bridge has a through slot saddle which was already tall enough so we didn’t need to remove it for this job.
@@JamesHoodGuitar excellent video! Thanks for the info, trying decide whether or not my father's vintage guitar is worth repairing or purchasing another one, cheers!
weren't the pegs glued into the holes.
how to remove them once glue sets?
Here's a silly question but I ask simply because I just don't know.
Does the entire bridge have to be removed in order to be re-glued. My bridge has lifted slightly in two spots, the majority is still intact, and I've thought of experimenting with a delivery method like pushing it through a thin and flexable tube -provided the glue is thin enough and doesn't clog- and then just clamp it for 24 hrs. I'm terrified of getting in over my head in repair work.
Some times you can do a partial bridge reglue but we don’t generally recommend it. If your bridge wings are lifting it can e a sign that your X brace is coming loose or your Guitars is under or over humidified. In either case it’s probably best to remove it and reglue it to the top. You also want to make sure you know what type of glue was used as it’s not a good idea to mix aliphatic resin type glue with hide glue.
Wouldn't a Dremel tool work to get the glue off?
Do you still do videos*
At 1:10, my, what a restful sound!
I just did this and used the blade (flexible) to get under the glue and it was a lot quicker
It always amazes me when people go overboard getting the bottom of the bridge perfectly flat! Y'all realize that the top of this steel string guitar is radiused don't you? Guild used a 30' radius when I was there!
I've often wondered about that...seems all acoustics have a slight radius in the top.
Wish I knew what kind of glue you used. I think I saw Titebond or something like that with a red top. Is that a glue that will soften with heat in case I mess up the first time? What other glues are used? I know of hyde glue. I heard that Gorrila urethane is good.
How about a short video on the right and wrong glues to use. Anyway, thanks for this video. I think I'm ready for my first bridge repair on an old Lyra.
Hi Edward, Yes Red label tite bond is the glue I used for this bridge re-glue job. It will soften when heated. Just take your time, do your dry run. I prefer not to use gorilla glue and i will use hide glue in some of my repairs as well.
Titebond Original. If you're using Titebond, stick with original, as the other variants tend to cold creep :D
James Hood Guitar hi James I reglued a Taylor 214 ce bridge with Elmer wood glue . Is that glue ok? Several days after I encountered some gaps on the back side of the bridge. Do you recommend unglued and reglued again the bridge? Or just fill the gaps?
I always just use a little goof off on glue. You gotta be real careful but it works well.
I do also. Apply it with a cheap artist brush.
Goof Off? That stuff is harsh, and the fumes are nasty. I'm pretty good with tricky gluing projects and cleaning with solvents, but with Goof Off I'd really worry about damaging the surrounding finish. Not to mention the loss of brain cells, I can't afford to lose too many more. Is there something gentler that'll soften the glue?
Can I glue the bridge back on if the wood has been pulled off a bit ?
What grade of wood glue is that you use from Titebond? Is it professional Strength - Interior Use? Or anyone that knows the answer? Thanks 🙏
@Matt Hayden i already did my guitar using this video and it's been great! Almost a year and still tight
@Matt Hayden ohh my bad i didn't see the name.
@Matt Hayden wow very detailed. Thanks for your reply and for taking the moment to write.
@Matt Hayden I agree.
Hi,i just saw this video today and the process you used seemed better than the other folks' method
So I want to ask you a question,how do I fix the spot where the bridge is positioned on?My bridge lifted and I didn't noticed too soon then when I spotted the problem the body,where the pins are placed to are torn up,like bumped a little,like in the middle of the bridge position is bumped,can I just try to push it down a little so it'll be flattened then I'll glue it?
jb legend if any wood has torn out you can glue pieces of spruce in an gouge. If spruce or any wood has lifted from the top of the guitar under the bridge, you can work glue in under the lifted wood then put some wax paper over that with a caul clamped in place. Once this is dry you can remove the wax paper and scrape the surface where the wax paper was then clean it with naphtha. You want to make sure you have no wax residue on the bridge foot print prior to gluing the bridge back on. Hope this helps and gave you a few different options.
I would recommend fish glue or hide glue and certainly not as much. Also, why not remove the saddle before clamping? Seems like damage waiting to happen.
Can i use any wood glue?
We highly recommend using using Titebond red label original wood glue
What glue do i have to use?
Regular red label titebond is a good glue to use.
19:39 what is the liquid you used to clean the excess glue?
I think he used water
Yes, just water will clean up the squeeze out.
I missed what type of glue you mentioned
Anyone watching this thinking: 'I don't have all those clamps'? Well, there's a way to can glue on a bridge without clamps. You just need 2 bolts, 2 washers, 2 nuts and some bits of scrap wood. Here's how: Get a piece of strong but bendy ply 200mmx50mm place bridge in centre drill two holes through A&B holes on bridge. Use bolts to bolt the bridge down with the ply. When tight in centre of bridge (glue squeeze-out) bend up the ply ends and wedge wood under to press down bridge wings (glue squeeze-out here). When fully dry unscrew bolts (not pull) as glue will have formed a thread then drill out any glue in string holes.
Iazzaboyce in some situations I guess that method could work. I would want to make sure that there was enough pressure on the wings and use a 002 feeler gauge all the way around the bridge to make sure the gauge doesn’t penetrate under the bridge in any areas. Yes you want to see squeeze out however squeeze out doesn’t always equal good contact of the bridge to the top of the guitar. 🎸🤓
Why not use a dremel of something, with the right attachment not to damage it?
It's an option yes.
Why not remove the saddle?
James I emailed you some pictures of the guitar
Daniel Eastland Thanks! I will check them out and get back to you soon.
Yesterday I "sanded" the top layer of skin from the end of my right thumb on a belt sander. I love the belt sander and it was my fault, I got careless, so when I saw you without gloves I cringed...
So sorry to hear that you got hurt Rick.
@@JamesHoodGuitar Thank you James. It is minor, just irritating. I have myself to blame but I've learned my lesson...I think... How many times have you heard that?
Next time, try using a drinking straw to clean up the excess glue. You might be surprised at well it works!
wow you used a wood glue, really? I guess it is a ready to use Hide glue but the ones that need heating up is the best..
Lucky you I don’t even have a pattern on mine the idiots glued mine to the black finish then I got down to the glue
best to scrape that finish off the top of the guitar that is under the bridge foot print then glue the bridge into place.
James Hood Guitar hey james maybe you can tell me why Dave took the whole pickup out I took mine out of the saddle but why would unhook it Thanks in advance for anyone who wants to answer
Are you referring to doing a bridge reglue while the transducer wire is still running through the saddle slot into the guitar? I advise removing the transducer from the bridge actually. I am happy to give you some advice if you want to message me.
I won't ask why the bridge saddle couldn't be removed to simplify the process. My understanding is that they're all removeable but maybe not.
DDEENY The bridge pulled off the guitar completely. If a bridge is still on the guitar and starting to lift off the top, then I would have to hear the bridge up to remove it completely. When the bridge is heated with a heat blanket it warms up the glue that the saddle was glued in with. When this happens then I will remove the saddle and glue it back in after the bridge is reglued.
Thank you. Question: What sort of heat blanket do you use to remove the bridge and how is it used? Thanks.
DDEENY sometimes the saddle comes loose while heating. On this one it stayed in the bride but yeah saddle out would make it easier. The heat blankets can be purchased from luthiers mercantile lmi.com make sure you make a timer. You can go to the hardware store and get a light timer or jacuzzi timer for this purpose.
Dude! Fingernails on the chalkboard!!
Sorry man, World Class? I don’t know about all that.
I wanted to see him take the pegs out...I bet they were glued solid...he should have remove them after he clamped the bridge.
Why didn't you take the saddle out
Saddle didn’t need replacement so I left it in the bridge on this one.
Drying time?????
eagle49 24 hours is a good amount of time
Thanks, I don't have all of your great tools but I 'll rig something up. Nice craft to know my friend.
I want mine fixed but it costs 100$!? Why is it so expensive?
Tom Rabbani wow! If your getting a bridge remove and Reglue for $100 and that’s it I would say take it! We start at $158
♍️🤘📐
Don't leave those bridge pins in there, look at that glue all around them. That saddle shouldn't be there, troublesome. Nice job though, that bridge will never pull up.
Glue name please
Lobo Rai Titebond Original. PVA glue. Sets in 30 minutes after clamp. Sets faster that Titebond III
I've seen people use chopsticks instead of bridge pins to align the bridge. Just saying
will have to try that some time.
I recommend Woodglut to every beginner and not only.
I started with Woodglut plans.
how did it turn out?
@@JamesHoodGuitar That's pure awesomeness I think ;)
I prefer to build with Woodglut plans.
That was a shitload of glue. I think you could’ve used half that amount and been fine.
The Glue was flowin heavy that day 😂
James Hood Guitar 😂
could ya get anymore glue on, jeez.
wrong glue!
Bob Wire yeah 🤦♂️ I realized I should have grabbed the Hyde glue🤭 but hey it will do the job still 👍🎸
So a pro luthier applies glue on the bridge bottom right over the spruce top of the guitar? That is beyond plain stupid!
You sound like you don't enjoy your work.
David Higginbotham I was supper tired that day. Long days will do that to you.
I can accept that. Good work at any rate.
Your doing good stop nagging. Be professional.