Really fascinating video Mark. You show that 3d printing an original guitar is not an easy option over handcrafting wood, it’s a whole new skill set and one that’s just as engaging as handcrafting. Great stuff! Cheers Dave
Hello! loved how you shared the things you experienced throughout the designing and 3d printing process. Considering the mount of effort and attention to detail you put into designing it, You should really consider manufacturing the 3d printed parts using "powder bed fusion" based 3d prinitng technologies like "selective laser sintering" (SLS) or "Multi jet fusion" (MJF). These printers typically have huge print volumes enabling you to make it in one whole piece and also provide extremely good and consistent surface finish. They also don't require any support structure no matter how complex your geometry is! You might have to out-source the parts from a 3d printing service provider that offers SLS or MJF as a service in your area. You may also want to implement "heat-set nut inserts" for mounting the electronic parts that need to be screwed to the 3d printed parts, and, pair that with standard machine screws replacing the self tapping screws. This will significantly increase the longevity of the threads for it you need to upgrade your components and improve the overall "premium"-ness of the guitar and make it a more polished end product! Hope any of this helps! :)
You did a great service to all of us with these ideas. I'm already seeing what I expected from people deeper into it with snap together components that assemble to create a body, the entire neck and so on but nothing like I've envisioned for my own design. I have decades in carpentry, metal crafting, auto mechanics, painting, complex luthier scale modifications or repairs *and just so happen to have gone to college for the science of electronics engineering.* *I'm 100% confident an entire guitar can be printed and produce quality that is salable on the commercial market but it still leaves a huge gap in efficiency because printing 1 complete guitar and assembling it will be absurdly slow with just 1 printer in use.*
Dude if you would have said Half 3d printed as you said with mix materials I still would have clicked and been maybe even more interested bc of the mix materials. If u can find a way to marry multiple materials you may have stumbled upon the next gen of guitar making. By utilizing the free flow form of 3d printing and the strength of other materials into a piece of badassery. Now when this tech becomes much older and wiser we will have better materials that will be able to be 3d printed at home not just in secret tech labs that keep all the kool stuff and give us the baby forms of the super High tech Technology. Love what u do bro, keep it up and we will be here with you to cheer u on.
i acutally liked the fact that you chose to do full 3d printed body, a lot of designs relay on having wooden center body, etc.. it was refreshing seeing a solution for full 3d printed body and it will be interesting seeing how it holds up after a year or 6 months. thank you for the quality video and share!
Cool project. I keep thinking I’d like to do a neck thru wood with 3D printed wings attached. If they were removable you could experiment with a ton of different designs without having to “make a new guitar” every time. Nice work, thanks!
As you may have noticed on mine, they nearly all have then same textured finish. And thats the surface texture from the actual print bed. All in all, I love it man! Looking forward to your next one
Regarding the surface finish, you may want to look into a process called "ironing", which helps to smooth out the top layer(s) of the print. It can be a bit of a pain to really dial in at times (other users may have already posted results that could help), but in my own experience, it does help produce far nicer results. Also, I agree with the idea of not trying to use 3D printing for everything. It's a problem that I see often in 3D printing projects where people will try to print things regardless of whether or not there is a better way to do it either with pre-made items or other techniques. Now, as you mentioned, there's always the novelty of printing everything, and I saw another guitar build recently where it even features a 3D printed neck (with metal support). It's nifty, but given the work of inserting all the frets... I think I'd rather just buy a neck. 😅
Great design - I love the spilling over of the complex design onto the more structural sections. I only have a tiny budget resin printer, so I've made a guitar body where each piece is very small and fitted it together like a puzzle, then given it a shattered look in a Kintsugi style. It's semi-hollow, but weighs about 3.6 kg (8 lbs - without neck or hardware)! It was a great experience making it, though. With mine I couldn't print accurately enough to use locator tabs (and couldn't experiement because I used aroun $200 of resin and each print took 10 hours+). So fitting and 5-minute epoxy glue-ups were a nightmare. The fact I was aiming for a Kintsugi style helped reduce stress levels, though!
Hey man, fantastic job as always. I'm currently printing a san dimas shape. I came up with similar ideas like you in this video like running carbon fiber rods through body to resist the flex. Couple of questions. 1- What is the dimension of your carbon fiber rod? 2- Did you use supports for the rod cavities? How did you clean it? Was it a snug fit when you insert the rods or did you use epoxy? 3- What was your core body infill density and pattern? 4- Have you thought about using variable infill instead of using rods? At 100% infill rate, pla might be stronger (harder to flex) than a square carbon fiber tube (you used tubes I assume) with the same dimensions. (I just asked chatgpt and it says carbon is 50 times more resistive to flex at the same dimensions) 5- Why not tremolo bridge? If you used a tremolo bridge would you prefer 2 point and how would you support the pivot posts?
Amazing work, Mark. You just knocked it out of the park here and I love how unique the V design is. The whole thing is shockingly similar to the one I've been working on since January (just started posting my shorts on it last week) but mine is loosely based on the ESP Arrow shape. I'm even using Fusion 360 and I'm using layered dimensions in the top design. Man, wish I had thought of printing the layers separately and gluing together...would have made sanding SO much easier instead of trying to sand in the small deep areas. Anyway, awesome job man.
My latest project is a mixed materials concept. I’ve used Sendcutsend for my hardware on wood instruments but I’m going to try to use more metal to handle the majority of the top and back and then fill out the more structural parts with wood. Some flourishes with negative space are definitely in order but I need to consider unwanted vibrations with a semi-hollow instrument. I make fiddles and it would work in my favor to get a banjo-esque tone. If it sounds and looks better than a cookie tin CBG I would consider it a win. Anyhow, your design is absolutely gorgeous and inspiring!
I love the idea of using the 3d printed sections almost as veneers over a center-block like you described at the end of the video. Sandwiching a piece of flame maple or other visually interesting wood under the veneer for the lower section of the guitar could be a cool way to hide the silhouette of the control cavity. Great video.
Really digging everything about this. I'm working on a guitar print right now that has a hollow space for a wooden core in the middle where the neck, pickups and bridge mount so its basically printed wings. The printed part is essentially aesthetic. I'm just not convinced on the long term stability of ABS or PLA continually holding a hundred pounds of string tension. I've done guitars out of wood in my garage and I can say making one 3d printed is just as challenging.
i've been working on my own version of a zendrum for ...too many years now. since getting a 3d printer i've wondered how effective it could be to 3d print a frame for an extra special version. this looks really great. learning that sometimes its better to use other techniques for certain things is a lesson everyone learns when stating 3d printing. especially large sections that take a long time to print, but otherwise would be a relatively quick piece to make out of something else.
You always come up with amazing design.. your work around new design concepts and materials really inspires me to redesign my custom headless to a mixed 3d printed - carbon composite design.. looking forward to want you will invent next time.
Might I recommend using heat to set your ferrules in on the next one? It'll help bind to the filament a bit better rather than pressure fitting it. I recommend looking into your settings for a better surface texture. Of course, every printer (and slicer) is going to be different, but there's a lot more to 3D printing than one might think. I personally prefer using OrcaSlicer, it's super intuitive and has a lot of settings to play around with. I also recommend scaling models down to like 20% to check all your tolerances and surface areas with a quick print. Another way you can get a smoother finish, is by using a 3D printing resin that you pour directly on to the model, after it's finished, to fill-in the gaps. I could talk all day about this if you want more advice on it.
Organic supports are great but they aren't always the best solution so keep that in mind. To get better finish on the supported areas make sure to use a few solid top layers on the support and adjust the gap to the point where it isn't too easy to remove but also not too hard. Additionally sometimes you have to print at a different temperature than you expect specifically for the supported area. I mostly print in PETG and found that with some filaments I have to print 20°C hotter to get a smooth surface on the supported areas. Additionally, if you have a printer that can print multi-color you can use a soluble support filament and that will give you the best supported finish. Personally I probably would have split that in half between the face and back of the guitar. Then you could use standard supports and the supported side would be on the inside where it is much less noticeable if it doesn't come out so good. Also if you use a carbon fiber infused filament you get a texture that helps to hide the layer lines so that may be an option. You can also get texture from the build plate design and Prusaslicer has a "Fuzzy Skin" option for texture as well.
For texture you could check out fuzzy mode. A lot of slicers have this feature and will wiggle the printhead as it follows the geometry. It can make a some interesting effects kind of like a textured tool handle.
Thanks for the suggestion. I watched a few hours of fuzzy mode example videos on UA-cam before printing this body. I'm just not advanced enough to figure out how to keep the sides being jointed together from having the fuzzy texture. Those sides touching each other would need to be smooth. Thanks for watching!
This is amazing! Would love to try it out for myself. Would you be willing to provide some more information on the assembly process? Such as the carbon fiber rods and attaching and tuning the neck.
Hi, the body is design to fit together kinda like Lego pieces. There are tabs and tab holes that align the pieces. I simply spread some epoxy between the pieces before binding them with surgical tubing. Because of the odd angles, clamps are almost unusable. I've used surgical tubing with great success before. Essentially, you assemble and glue from the tip of the upper horn first. I was letting each glued piece cure for an hour or two before glueing the next piece. The heel is the last piece to be glued on. Before gluing the heel, you have access to the first two graphite rod slots. I coat them in epoxy and slide them in. Then glue the heel, then slide coat the the last two graphite rods with epoxy and slide them into the slots in the heel. Paint, then everything after that is just like any normal guitar.
I honestly thought you were going to paint it. Very cool and one in a list of printed guitars I have seen lately. It.looks like a printed guitar is in my future. Of my own design. Well done.
I have not epoxied printed parts yet but I have used CA glue and I can vouch for how strong it is. I had to separate a few pieces about a month ago, and the glue held so tight that in some areas the plastic ripped little chunks out of the adjacent piece. The glue joints were stronger than the material itself.
This is absolutely gorgeous. One thing that came to mind, for the surfaces could you create a negative epoxy template and use resin as the topmost layers for a perfect finish? I know nothing about 3D printing, but it did came to mind.
Awesome work, i really like the mind you've put into structure and visuals of this guitar! Also, can you share the name of track\song sounded on 18:44?
Also, I just want to add that this was the first video of yours I've ever seen, and it alone got a sub from me. I can't wait to dig into your library. 🖤
That is one of the coolest things I've seen in a while! Quite ambitious, for a first go, too. This one of the few times the rabbit hole has landed me somewhere that I'm actually glad to be! 🤘👍
If you use something like ASA, you could rather nicely sand blast the parts for a good finish. Also you could print the whole thing in layers. If you do that, you can even laser cut the whole body and achieve the same design in 2mm, 12mm wood mixed, and maybe even use different woods to get a cool look
Looking forward to seeing how you evolve this idea. If you can get the lighting happening, like that early render - it'll look amazing when played. (Of course there will be the added complexity of a battery and light strip - and maybe some interference/ feedback that needs to be solved?)
I saw people use truck bed liner sprays, they give uniform textures. Also it's cool to see you use similar design tricks that I use, but not for guitars. Can't wait to see what you'll come up with next.
Loved the way you discovered issues and developed work arounds. I'm currently making an acoustic with fibre glass. I forgot how much I dislike working with fibre glass :) 3D printing seems to be the way to go.
This is a very beautiful project. If you want to achieve a better finish, you may look at at PLA-CF or PETG-CF (CF - carbon fiber). Or filament with GF (GF - glass fiber). This is matte filament that due to the small fibers lets the filament breath and evens out flawless. You may need to get a heated dryer like the Sunlu 2 and print directly from it after a couple of hours of putting the filament inside. (Setting the timer below zero goes to endless) Don't mistake the Carbon Fiber for adding to the durability of the filament. It just gives a beautiful matte and uniform look. Honeycomb infill avoids overlapping infill that may accumulate filament on the nozzle tip usually. You may find it also useful to take a look at Orca Slicer and the filament calibration Menu there. Orca Slicer has a Qidi Q1 Pro profile and is like the Qidi slicer also a Prusa Slicer spin off. Anyway, like you said in the video, the best is to take the best of all worlds. Thus you may want to take a look at the new Elegoo resin printers for parts that need super tiny details. Uncle Jessy is a great UA-cam channel related to resin printing. He has a lot on Elegoo resin printers.
very nice. I had a thought that you could try to refocus your efforts toward sonic goals that might also look beautiful. What if, from a smooth, slightly rounded back (like ovation guitars), you could have some beautiful geometry that aims fibonacci spiraled cones from a smal focal point near the back, out toward an opening on the front of the guitar... so the back wall would serve as a sound reflector toward the front, but then these spiral conch shell-inspired cones would also deliver sound out of the front of the body in such a way as to promote sound flowing out of the instrument into the room. could be a hybrid acoustic-electric that might sound very nice acoustically in the room, but then be plugged in too... I think a thicker body would also allow richer deeper tone. should probably get some math regarding the E string wavelength and then measurements of the fibonaccis... so you can make the guitar deliver that bass tone as deeply as possible. love your work here.
Very good job on the design, it looks awesome, personally i would have split the model in half so that when you print it, you get the plate surface finish on both ends and to avoid using supports, but the end result look great either way Also for a V2, you could do the trim in an accent color to make the design pop a bit more, or even do a wood veneer on top of the design
What a beautiful guitar. Great design and as a luthier myself, you really sway me to explore 3D printing. Outstanding build. Congrats. ...although, I'd probably enjoy the process of accomplishing this kind of design with timber and hand tools, if only for the challenge. But thank you. Great share :)
QIDI Q1 is capeble to print ABS with heated chamber and also capeble to prind carbon fiber composits, so the better choise for future projects would be ABS CF or ABS GF, cuz at first fibers will hide layer lines, at second armatured ABS will hold up 60 degreees celsius of sun heat, while PLA gonna became a chuwing gum, and also PLA gonna decompose itself after a few years to. If you gonna use CF or GF ABS, buy a hardned 0.6 nozzle, or you may expect alotta clogs with 0.4 standart. cool desighn by the way fella!
Man! This one came out great! I've been thinking about printing a couple of guitars myself. This one is totally different than all of the other ones I've seen so far, super cool!
Lots of first layer under extrusion on your test piece. You could also try ironing to get a nice top finish unless you are planning on priming and painting it.
You're always doing cool stuff man! Beautiful design... and genius idea, to keep the piece/cut lines organic. Some wood veneer accents may be another possibly interesting design element. As always, there is no limit to imagination.
Hey Mark, amazing work! I love the design and how you departed from traditional guitar design philosophy and really embraced the possibilities of additive manufacturing!
Tim Henson's new signature? Ibanez bringing back the Roket Roll??? Call it the Ibanez RR lol. Could def see him play something like this! Awesome job as always!!!!
Great video man. i thought the same thing but to take a kit explorer and cut the center core of the body out so theres no wings or anything, just a rectangle where the set neck meets and the pickups sit. then print whatever body you want to add to it, you could get creative and hide the wood of the body with some sort of trim plate but all that is just alot of work lol.
You can get a much more consistent surface finish by changing print orientation. Try experimenting with printing the wings of the V vertically on the flat sides. This will eliminate the need for separate pieces for the ornamental and structural parts of the design. I'm also a huge fan of using a filling primer before spraying my final color, much less work is needed on the finish. This is a great design and I'm looking forward to seeing what's next!
I also open the video for the design. It looks amazing! :D I bought the 3d files for the print but I'm a bit lost on the carbon fiber rods, do you have a guide for those?
I started glueing the pieces starting from the rear. So glue everything together except the heel. The first set of carbon fiber rods slide into the exposed slots. The slots might be hard to find but they are there. Then glue the heel on. The 2nd set of rods enter from the neck pocket joint.
Looks great. I've just 3rd printed my 1st guitar and i have almost no knowledge about it. How did you remove the glue residue from your build? Im afraid to use acetone, since I've already destroyed part of my build with a lighter when i wanted to remove some white spots.
I LOVE that you did the RR V shape rather than the typical strat shape that everyone else uses…you have no idea how happy that made me 🤘
Same feelings I have like 3 different RR guitars I love them. I also have strat and similar to an strat, Now I want to 3d print this
I clicked on the video because the design is cool af
okay
@@georginhomos ???
@@kz.productions yeah
@@georginhomos are you a troll?
@@kz.productions u mean :(
You are an absolute genius. I'm going to start building guitars soon. Starting with wood and easy designs but you've gave me so many unreal ideas.
your sweeps are CLEAN. and the guitar looks killer.
Really fascinating video Mark. You show that 3d printing an original guitar is not an easy option over handcrafting wood, it’s a whole new skill set and one that’s just as engaging as handcrafting. Great stuff! Cheers Dave
Wow!!!!the first RR inspired V's that is original and has a lot of new design features!!!!!AMAZING AND I WANT ONE
Hello! loved how you shared the things you experienced throughout the designing and 3d printing process.
Considering the mount of effort and attention to detail you put into designing it, You should really consider manufacturing the 3d printed parts using "powder bed fusion" based 3d prinitng technologies like "selective laser sintering" (SLS) or "Multi jet fusion" (MJF). These printers typically have huge print volumes enabling you to make it in one whole piece and also provide extremely good and consistent surface finish. They also don't require any support structure no matter how complex your geometry is!
You might have to out-source the parts from a 3d printing service provider that offers SLS or MJF as a service in your area.
You may also want to implement "heat-set nut inserts" for mounting the electronic parts that need to be screwed to the 3d printed parts, and, pair that with standard machine screws replacing the self tapping screws. This will significantly increase the longevity of the threads for it you need to upgrade your components and improve the overall "premium"-ness of the guitar and make it a more polished end product!
Hope any of this helps! :)
You did a great service to all of us with these ideas. I'm already seeing what I expected from people deeper into it with snap together components that assemble to create a body, the entire neck and so on but nothing like I've envisioned for my own design.
I have decades in carpentry, metal crafting, auto mechanics, painting, complex luthier scale modifications or repairs *and just so happen to have gone to college for the science of electronics engineering.*
*I'm 100% confident an entire guitar can be printed and produce quality that is salable on the commercial market but it still leaves a huge gap in efficiency because printing 1 complete guitar and assembling it will be absurdly slow with just 1 printer in use.*
Dude if you would have said Half 3d printed as you said with mix materials I still would have clicked and been maybe even more interested bc of the mix materials. If u can find a way to marry multiple materials you may have stumbled upon the next gen of guitar making. By utilizing the free flow form of 3d printing and the strength of other materials into a piece of badassery. Now when this tech becomes much older and wiser we will have better materials that will be able to be 3d printed at home not just in secret tech labs that keep all the kool stuff and give us the baby forms of the super High tech Technology. Love what u do bro, keep it up and we will be here with you to cheer u on.
Really cool design and process. Many thanks for putting this video together!
i acutally liked the fact that you chose to do full 3d printed body, a lot of designs relay on having wooden center body, etc.. it was refreshing seeing a solution for full 3d printed body and it will be interesting seeing how it holds up after a year or 6 months. thank you for the quality video and share!
Youre my go to guitar channel. This is super sick. Love that you think outside the box!
This man has me drueling over this guitar. Also its making me wanna get my printer working again! You sir are awesome!
What a great build/guitar! It's awesome to see what is possible with modern technology in the right hands.
Cool project. I keep thinking I’d like to do a neck thru wood with 3D printed wings attached. If they were removable you could experiment with a ton of different designs without having to “make a new guitar” every time. Nice work, thanks!
Love that.
I love the inspiration you got from Tasmaniak Guitars. His are incredible! Love seeing collabs with talented people.
As you may have noticed on mine, they nearly all have then same textured finish. And thats the surface texture from the actual print bed.
All in all, I love it man! Looking forward to your next one
I got the idea from you. Your guitars all have a stunning finish.
@@MarkGutierrezthanks mate! Even now when I pull a top piece off the printer, I still look at the way the colours blend together and am blown away!
Regarding the surface finish, you may want to look into a process called "ironing", which helps to smooth out the top layer(s) of the print. It can be a bit of a pain to really dial in at times (other users may have already posted results that could help), but in my own experience, it does help produce far nicer results.
Also, I agree with the idea of not trying to use 3D printing for everything. It's a problem that I see often in 3D printing projects where people will try to print things regardless of whether or not there is a better way to do it either with pre-made items or other techniques. Now, as you mentioned, there's always the novelty of printing everything, and I saw another guitar build recently where it even features a 3D printed neck (with metal support). It's nifty, but given the work of inserting all the frets... I think I'd rather just buy a neck. 😅
dude, this is sick. It's kinda got that acoustic vibrancy esp with the reverb 👌👌
Great design - I love the spilling over of the complex design onto the more structural sections.
I only have a tiny budget resin printer, so I've made a guitar body where each piece is very small and fitted it together like a puzzle, then given it a shattered look in a Kintsugi style. It's semi-hollow, but weighs about 3.6 kg (8 lbs - without neck or hardware)! It was a great experience making it, though.
With mine I couldn't print accurately enough to use locator tabs (and couldn't experiement because I used aroun $200 of resin and each print took 10 hours+). So fitting and 5-minute epoxy glue-ups were a nightmare. The fact I was aiming for a Kintsugi style helped reduce stress levels, though!
Hey man, fantastic job as always. I'm currently printing a san dimas shape. I came up with similar ideas like you in this video like running carbon fiber rods through body to resist the flex. Couple of questions.
1- What is the dimension of your carbon fiber rod?
2- Did you use supports for the rod cavities? How did you clean it? Was it a snug fit when you insert the rods or did you use epoxy?
3- What was your core body infill density and pattern?
4- Have you thought about using variable infill instead of using rods? At 100% infill rate, pla might be stronger (harder to flex) than a square carbon fiber tube (you used tubes I assume) with the same dimensions. (I just asked chatgpt and it says carbon is 50 times more resistive to flex at the same dimensions)
5- Why not tremolo bridge? If you used a tremolo bridge would you prefer 2 point and how would you support the pivot posts?
So rad Mark!!! ... love how you added a 3rd printed face plate on the headstock... really pulls it all together. Thank you for sharing this process!
Amazing! As a player and 3d printer user, this video filled me with ideas! Thank you!
Amazing work, Mark. You just knocked it out of the park here and I love how unique the V design is. The whole thing is shockingly similar to the one I've been working on since January (just started posting my shorts on it last week) but mine is loosely based on the ESP Arrow shape. I'm even using Fusion 360 and I'm using layered dimensions in the top design. Man, wish I had thought of printing the layers separately and gluing together...would have made sanding SO much easier instead of trying to sand in the small deep areas. Anyway, awesome job man.
I watched all your shorts. Loved them! Keep posting and I'll keep watching.
My latest project is a mixed materials concept. I’ve used Sendcutsend for my hardware on wood instruments but I’m going to try to use more metal to handle the majority of the top and back and then fill out the more structural parts with wood. Some flourishes with negative space are definitely in order but I need to consider unwanted vibrations with a semi-hollow instrument. I make fiddles and it would work in my favor to get a banjo-esque tone. If it sounds and looks better than a cookie tin CBG I would consider it a win.
Anyhow, your design is absolutely gorgeous and inspiring!
I love the idea of using the 3d printed sections almost as veneers over a center-block like you described at the end of the video. Sandwiching a piece of flame maple or other visually interesting wood under the veneer for the lower section of the guitar could be a cool way to hide the silhouette of the control cavity. Great video.
Really digging everything about this. I'm working on a guitar print right now that has a hollow space for a wooden core in the middle where the neck, pickups and bridge mount so its basically printed wings. The printed part is essentially aesthetic. I'm just not convinced on the long term stability of ABS or PLA continually holding a hundred pounds of string tension. I've done guitars out of wood in my garage and I can say making one 3d printed is just as challenging.
i've been working on my own version of a zendrum for ...too many years now. since getting a 3d printer i've wondered how effective it could be to 3d print a frame for an extra special version. this looks really great.
learning that sometimes its better to use other techniques for certain things is a lesson everyone learns when stating 3d printing. especially large sections that take a long time to print, but otherwise would be a relatively quick piece to make out of something else.
You always come up with amazing design.. your work around new design concepts and materials really inspires me to redesign my custom headless to a mixed 3d printed - carbon composite design.. looking forward to want you will invent next time.
thats so cool, i really liked the wood tone
This is awesome Mark! I love seeing the process you go through.
also, all videos should start to include a section of picking and eating food.
@@DevilAndSons lol
Might I recommend using heat to set your ferrules in on the next one? It'll help bind to the filament a bit better rather than pressure fitting it. I recommend looking into your settings for a better surface texture. Of course, every printer (and slicer) is going to be different, but there's a lot more to 3D printing than one might think. I personally prefer using OrcaSlicer, it's super intuitive and has a lot of settings to play around with. I also recommend scaling models down to like 20% to check all your tolerances and surface areas with a quick print. Another way you can get a smoother finish, is by using a 3D printing resin that you pour directly on to the model, after it's finished, to fill-in the gaps.
I could talk all day about this if you want more advice on it.
Sweet! Thanks for the advise.
Organic supports are great but they aren't always the best solution so keep that in mind. To get better finish on the supported areas make sure to use a few solid top layers on the support and adjust the gap to the point where it isn't too easy to remove but also not too hard. Additionally sometimes you have to print at a different temperature than you expect specifically for the supported area. I mostly print in PETG and found that with some filaments I have to print 20°C hotter to get a smooth surface on the supported areas. Additionally, if you have a printer that can print multi-color you can use a soluble support filament and that will give you the best supported finish. Personally I probably would have split that in half between the face and back of the guitar. Then you could use standard supports and the supported side would be on the inside where it is much less noticeable if it doesn't come out so good. Also if you use a carbon fiber infused filament you get a texture that helps to hide the layer lines so that may be an option. You can also get texture from the build plate design and Prusaslicer has a "Fuzzy Skin" option for texture as well.
Oh also look up 3d Gloop glue. They make glue for just about any filament type that is fantastic!
For texture you could check out fuzzy mode. A lot of slicers have this feature and will wiggle the printhead as it follows the geometry. It can make a some interesting effects kind of like a textured tool handle.
Thanks for the suggestion. I watched a few hours of fuzzy mode example videos on UA-cam before printing this body. I'm just not advanced enough to figure out how to keep the sides being jointed together from having the fuzzy texture. Those sides touching each other would need to be smooth. Thanks for watching!
Dude, that is so totally bad ass SWEET! Looks great, sounds great. Rock and create on!
Really love this design!
My all-time favorite, Randy Rhoades is looking down from Heaven & smiling. 🙂 Randy would be proud! 🫡
I love that song you played. I'd love to put vocals to it for real. Lovete guitar bro , just amazing
This is amazing! Would love to try it out for myself. Would you be willing to provide some more information on the assembly process? Such as the carbon fiber rods and attaching and tuning the neck.
Hi, the body is design to fit together kinda like Lego pieces. There are tabs and tab holes that align the pieces. I simply spread some epoxy between the pieces before binding them with surgical tubing. Because of the odd angles, clamps are almost unusable. I've used surgical tubing with great success before. Essentially, you assemble and glue from the tip of the upper horn first. I was letting each glued piece cure for an hour or two before glueing the next piece. The heel is the last piece to be glued on. Before gluing the heel, you have access to the first two graphite rod slots. I coat them in epoxy and slide them in. Then glue the heel, then slide coat the the last two graphite rods with epoxy and slide them into the slots in the heel. Paint, then everything after that is just like any normal guitar.
I honestly thought you were going to paint it. Very cool and one in a list of printed guitars I have seen lately. It.looks like a printed guitar is in my future. Of my own design. Well done.
Lindo este seu trabalho montando esta guitarra, ficou muito bom. Parabens pela iniciativa.
3d Gloop for bonding 3d prints with each other, it also works well as a surface finish.
Really cool design!
I have not epoxied printed parts yet but I have used CA glue and I can vouch for how strong it is. I had to separate a few pieces about a month ago, and the glue held so tight that in some areas the plastic ripped little chunks out of the adjacent piece. The glue joints were stronger than the material itself.
Very cool looking guitar! The best part was your playing, though. Really nice. 😃
You are a great artist! Man that opening riff was beautiful. Subbing for the great artistry.
This is absolutely gorgeous. One thing that came to mind, for the surfaces could you create a negative epoxy template and use resin as the topmost layers for a perfect finish? I know nothing about 3D printing, but it did came to mind.
Gorgeous job
I'm doing similar stuff and also looking into mixed materials for the same reason. Awesome design!
Awesome work, i really like the mind you've put into structure and visuals of this guitar!
Also, can you share the name of track\song sounded on 18:44?
Also, I just want to add that this was the first video of yours I've ever seen, and it alone got a sub from me. I can't wait to dig into your library. 🖤
That is one of the coolest things I've seen in a while! Quite ambitious, for a first go, too. This one of the few times the rabbit hole has landed me somewhere that I'm actually glad to be! 🤘👍
The problem with texture is the orientation of the print and where you need your strength. Solution. Magnetic face plates.
If you use something like ASA, you could rather nicely sand blast the parts for a good finish.
Also you could print the whole thing in layers.
If you do that, you can even laser cut the whole body and achieve the same design in 2mm, 12mm wood mixed, and maybe even use different woods to get a cool look
Amazing job man. That looks sick.. Soon as I get space to start 3d printing again will pick up this file and give it a shot.
Looking forward to seeing how you evolve this idea.
If you can get the lighting happening, like that early render - it'll look amazing when played. (Of course there will be the added complexity of a battery and light strip - and maybe some interference/ feedback that needs to be solved?)
I saw people use truck bed liner sprays, they give uniform textures. Also it's cool to see you use similar design tricks that I use, but not for guitars. Can't wait to see what you'll come up with next.
I totally used a truck bed spray. I loved everything about it...except that it had a sheen to it so I sprayed over it with a matte texture paint.
It would be awesome to see a headless neck-thru base design for modularity. So you can swap the body whenever. Great build!
Loved the way you discovered issues and developed work arounds. I'm currently making an acoustic with fibre glass. I forgot how much I dislike working with fibre glass :) 3D printing seems to be the way to go.
So very Impressive. Love your passion for the journey.
Awesome build. Nice job.
Really enjoyed your playing. Nice guitar too. Wonder if its possible to build an acoustic version?
This is a very beautiful project.
If you want to achieve a better finish, you may look at at PLA-CF or PETG-CF (CF - carbon fiber). Or filament with GF (GF - glass fiber). This is matte filament that due to the small fibers lets the filament breath and evens out flawless. You may need to get a heated dryer like the Sunlu 2 and print directly from it after a couple of hours of putting the filament inside. (Setting the timer below zero goes to endless) Don't mistake the Carbon Fiber for adding to the durability of the filament. It just gives a beautiful matte and uniform look. Honeycomb infill avoids overlapping infill that may accumulate filament on the nozzle tip usually. You may find it also useful to take a look at Orca Slicer and the filament calibration Menu there. Orca Slicer has a Qidi Q1 Pro profile and is like the Qidi slicer also a Prusa Slicer spin off.
Anyway, like you said in the video, the best is to take the best of all worlds. Thus you may want to take a look at the new Elegoo resin printers for parts that need super tiny details. Uncle Jessy is a great UA-cam channel related to resin printing. He has a lot on Elegoo resin printers.
Lots of good suggestions. I just found Uncle Jessy. And I had no clue resin printers could print finer detail. Thanks!
i would definitely pay money for a version of these files in a warrior shape
I just picked up a Warrior about two months ago. I LOVE that shape.
@@MarkGutierrezoh man, I'm in two minds ...love the warrior, but also love the curves of the stealth. Both iconic shapes!
@@MarkGutierrez I just designed a more geometric one that I'm gonna start building this winter. But you're giving me lots of ideas.
I've never liked any V style guitar but this is awesome!
very nice.
I had a thought that you could try to refocus your efforts toward sonic goals that might also look beautiful.
What if, from a smooth, slightly rounded back (like ovation guitars), you could have some beautiful geometry that aims fibonacci spiraled cones from a smal focal point near the back, out toward an opening on the front of the guitar... so the back wall would serve as a sound reflector toward the front, but then these spiral conch shell-inspired cones would also deliver sound out of the front of the body in such a way as to promote sound flowing out of the instrument into the room. could be a hybrid acoustic-electric that might sound very nice acoustically in the room, but then be plugged in too... I think a thicker body would also allow richer deeper tone. should probably get some math regarding the E string wavelength and then measurements of the fibonaccis... so you can make the guitar deliver that bass tone as deeply as possible. love your work here.
Very cool and creative
Very good job on the design, it looks awesome, personally i would have split the model in half so that when you print it, you get the plate surface finish on both ends and to avoid using supports, but the end result look great either way
Also for a V2, you could do the trim in an accent color to make the design pop a bit more, or even do a wood veneer on top of the design
Very cool looking guitar, are you concerned at all that the bridge and neck will move due to creep over time?
This is such a cool design! Having some issues with my Q1 Pro, but hoping I can get it sorted out and get some quality prints like this.
That's pretty rad.
Simply beautiful. Amazing work.
What a beautiful guitar. Great design and as a luthier myself, you really sway me to explore 3D printing. Outstanding build. Congrats. ...although, I'd probably enjoy the process of accomplishing this kind of design with timber and hand tools, if only for the challenge. But thank you. Great share :)
Same here, I'd really like to explore building the same guitar with wood. Thanks for watching.
Everything you do is unique. 🎉
The guitar looks awesome! How did you insert the carbon fiber rods, during the print or afterwards?
QIDI Q1 is capeble to print ABS with heated chamber and also capeble to prind carbon fiber composits, so the better choise for future projects would be ABS CF or ABS GF, cuz at first fibers will hide layer lines, at second armatured ABS will hold up 60 degreees celsius of sun heat, while PLA gonna became a chuwing gum, and also PLA gonna decompose itself after a few years to. If you gonna use CF or GF ABS, buy a hardned 0.6 nozzle, or you may expect alotta clogs with 0.4 standart. cool desighn by the way fella!
Man! This one came out great! I've been thinking about printing a couple of guitars myself. This one is totally different than all of the other ones I've seen so far, super cool!
Lots of first layer under extrusion on your test piece. You could also try ironing to get a nice top finish unless you are planning on priming and painting it.
You're always doing cool stuff man! Beautiful design... and genius idea, to keep the piece/cut lines organic. Some wood veneer accents may be another possibly interesting design element. As always, there is no limit to imagination.
So cool! Looking forward to your more 3d printed project!
Incredible 👏👏 amazing work.
Hey Mark, amazing work! I love the design and how you departed from traditional guitar design philosophy and really embraced the possibilities of additive manufacturing!
Wonder where are the tonewood snobs right now.
Probably have a meeting with Paul Reed Smith discussing their arguments about tonepolymers...
Masterpiece.
Tim Henson's new signature? Ibanez bringing back the Roket Roll??? Call it the Ibanez RR lol. Could def see him play something like this! Awesome job as always!!!!
Oooh, it looks sick. I have a large format printer. You sell the files.
I have a new project for the fall
Amazing work! I might doing the same project
Great video man. i thought the same thing but to take a kit explorer and cut the center core of the body out so theres no wings or anything, just a rectangle where the set neck meets and the pickups sit. then print whatever body you want to add to it, you could get creative and hide the wood of the body with some sort of trim plate but all that is just alot of work lol.
Exactly.
You can get a much more consistent surface finish by changing print orientation. Try experimenting with printing the wings of the V vertically on the flat sides. This will eliminate the need for separate pieces for the ornamental and structural parts of the design. I'm also a huge fan of using a filling primer before spraying my final color, much less work is needed on the finish. This is a great design and I'm looking forward to seeing what's next!
Thanks so much for the suggestions. I'm very new to 3D printing and appreciate any and all tips and tricks.
I also open the video for the design. It looks amazing! :D I bought the 3d files for the print but I'm a bit lost on the carbon fiber rods, do you have a guide for those?
I started glueing the pieces starting from the rear. So glue everything together except the heel. The first set of carbon fiber rods slide into the exposed slots. The slots might be hard to find but they are there. Then glue the heel on. The 2nd set of rods enter from the neck pocket joint.
Would using super strong magnets to hold everything together instead of glue be a good option??
killer man, love it.
Now that is an epic guitar
Great job , inspirational for sure
I’ve seen a honeycorm-patterns of 3d printing guitars. But this design is also cool 😎 and I ❤this!!!
Looks great. I've just 3rd printed my 1st guitar and i have almost no knowledge about it. How did you remove the glue residue from your build? Im afraid to use acetone, since I've already destroyed part of my build with a lighter when i wanted to remove some white spots.
I used epoxy. I just wiped the squeeze out off before it cured.
Very cool project and interesting process
Love it!
Friggin awesome.
amazing, great looking guitar.