How to Install a Stair Handrail on Stairs | This Old House
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This Old House general contractor Tom Silva installs a wall-mounted staircase banister. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Shopping List for How to Install a Stair Handrail on Stairs:
- handrail [amzn.to/2WxPoO3]
- handrail mounting brackets [amzn.to/2W3milF]
- carpenter's glue [amzn.to/2wtZf91]
- 6d finishing nails [amzn.to/2EJAwSA], used to attach mitered returns to end of handrail
- primer and paint [amzn.to/2WCA82x], or stain and/or varnish [amzn.to/2WyVr5e], for finishing handrails
Tools for How to Install a Stair Handrail on Stairs:
- 4-foot level [amzn.to/30RcApZ]
- measuring tape [amzn.to/2YYCAhv]
- framing square [amzn.to/2JM9mPo]
- chalk line [amzn.to/2HN3TFR], used to snap line on wall for mounting brackets
- stud finder [amzn.to/2HN0s1S], for locating wall studs
- drill/driver [amzn.to/2Xb40A1]
- 1/8-inch drill bit [amzn.to/2QAHMoM] used to form pilot holes for finishing nails
- 7/64-inch drill bit [amzn.to/2Z4SruZ] used to form screw pilot holes for attaching mounting brackets
- power miter saw [amzn.to/2W7Cfae], used to cut handrail to length
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How to Install a Stair Handrail on Stairs | This Old House
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Guys...I have been watching home improvement videos on YT for 12 years. I was very intimidated by this project and this video is simply the greatest home improvement video I have ever seen. No extra commentary, no pitches for crap I don't need and no urgings to "pound that subscribe button nonsense!" I simply wanted to know how to hang a handrail and this video shows you how to do that. Thank you.
Exactly
How is it this guy does a job in less than 10 minutes and it takes me all day and four trips to Home Depot
Lol
Same here
The magic of video.
Proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance
Joe R you got it down to 1 day!? Nice work!!
hah feel ya, same here on different project. professionals make things look easy, but it's def another story for us
Great video. Only a pro would think of cutting mitres at each end and glueing them back on at the ends. These tips are not in instruction manuals. Absolute genius!!
The best, clearest and most professional "how to" I've ever watched. Thank you.
I just installed new stair rails in our house today. This video helped me tremendously, and we referenced it multiple times. Thanks for what you guys do.
2024 NOTE: the ADA (Americans with Disabilites Act) states handrails should be mounted 34-38", not the 32-34" Tom talks about here - so be sure to check your local regulations. GREAT VIDEO!! I always come to TOH *first* when I'm new to a project! 👍
I have been looking for detailed easy to follow instructions re installing a stair rail, for a long time.Tom this video ticked all the boxes. Thank you so much for sharing this online, I am now looking forward to carrying out this project. Cheers
Upgraded out stairway railing and watched your tutorial Sir Tom. Your step by step instructions helped us a lot. Thank you so much.
OK, time for me to says thanks as well! I needed the help, I never would have thought about the return on the top and bottom either. So helpful! Now its onto the curved newel post and all the bannisters! Thanks a lot.
I love that I read this as “tu-awp & boo-autumn”…I guess we know where I get all my home repair help😂
Thanks for the video. I installed one today. It took more than four minutes but I got it done in about an hour. Thanks!
In USA, the handrail height is between 34 and 38 inches. In Canada, it's between 34 and 42 inches. I usually aim for around 34 to 36.
The IRC (International Residential Code) is the same for both Canada and the USA, 34" - 38", measured up vertically from the nosing. There's a caveat to go up to 42" , in both countries, for a "guard", but I don't know what that refers to.
Thank you for the video. This was a huge help. Also we used baby powder for the chalk line and it worked great.
Amazed to see the work you have shown in the video about creating handrails at home. It can work wonders if implemented with attention.
Remember: the returns need to match code as far as spacing of rail off the wall. He does not show that he further cuts the returns to length. If you have too small of a cutoff you’ll cut your fingers off when the piece gets sucked into the saw - make sure your cutoff (return pieces) are long enough to work with!
I found it confusing that they left off that bit. Made it seem like they just magically came out to the right length.
Yeah I'm still trying to figure that bit out @farmpunk_dan
I like the returns done on the ends. Easy to do but never seen it done, at least not around here.
The returns are code in rental houses. Maybe residential too. It is a safeguard so that clothing, etc. won't get snagged/caught on the opened rail and trip you up!
We had to put up a hand rail that we had taken down to paint during a remodel. We were putting new hardware on it as well. We didn't have a clue what to do and we have a wrap around a corner rail. This was very helpful. Thank you so much
Wow, I should have watched this BEFORE installing the railing.
Thanks for the excellent video. It's very straight forward instructions. One thing though is that the height is incorrect (34"-38"). The method of figuring the returns lengths could have been explained. I have not installed my handrail yet but I think I will use three brackets instead of two. Since the studs are only 1 1/2" thick, the top two screws need to be right on in order to grab enough wood. Thank you!
Your point about the landing available for the 2 screws is valid. I am concerned about the lack of space to accommodate two screws. Also a third bracket makes sense to me.
Angus McLean angle the screws inward slightly to help ensure you catch the stud
At 1:50 in, the dudes face says “I have no idea what’s going on here anymore, but here’s a nod from me anyways”.
Yeah, but how long to begin with? You'll have longer or shorter pieces for your return depending on the total starting length.
...or, if you do not want to use chalk lines, you could simply find the studs, mark center, then duplicate height (plumb) measurements from there (in this case 26 inches[for 32 inch height from stair edge). Of course, you want to double check the stud centers at height. Measure twice cut once, and those return corners though are a Boston dandy!
As far as the railing spacing between the wall, IRC dictates minimum of 1.5". The railing brackets are usually set for about this distance when centering the railing on the brackets. Just make sure you don't have any major bulges in the wall before cutting the returns. I was entertained by the minimal amount of time dedicated to fastening the returns on the railing ends. This is actually the hardest part of the entire job. Especially on natural red oak. ( the railing shown is a standard 6010 red oak, no plow )
Who the heck is downvoting this!
This is a good video on installing a railing with only two brackets. But, if it's a long enough run to need three, you should install the railing on the outer two first, then use the railing to place the one in the middle. Otherwise, there's a greater risk of getting the middle one out of alignment. A friend of mine mismarked the middle one too high and couldn't get his railing on after mounting all three brackets before installing the railing.
that's hilarious. such a great point
Thanks. Boy, that took me way longer than I expected.
Beware when cutting the returns. This method will work fine IF you have s perfectly straight handrail. If your handrail is bowed at all, you will want to cut your 45s and install the hand rail before cutting and measuring for the returns. I learned this the hard way.
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I was wondering how those returns fit perfectly from the handrail length he had. Great info. thanks.
This was very helpful and save me a lot of time and mistakes
With the first measurement..where did u measure from? the mark u made from when u marked the bottom stair or from the end of the level
It would be from the mark on the level. Because the right requirements are based on the edge on the stair nosing been the starting point. So when he marked 32", it will be 32" straight up from the nosing.
I have a bi-level. Going upstairs I have a half wall, downstairs full walls. My husband is telling me the handrail usually goes on left wall. I have knee problems, and going downstairs is my problem. So for me, installing on right wall going down stairs is better....no matter what the normal is.
Had the same issue after my wife's surgery. I put railings on both sides. Helped a lot.
This video makes it look like the wrap arounds just happen to both come off both ends at the correct length. Of course, they don't. I found this very confusing the first time I did handrails to my basement. But they came out great and work really well.
Perciò non rilasciare ancora il corrimano
Lakhen al ta'azov et amaake adayin
Good video. There is railing hardware that uses internal springs for clamping glue joints. The system works good for those 90 degree joints at the ends of the rail.
Followed these instructions and I'm happy with the result. One mistake I made: I had a short one to install (3 steps) and studs were only available near the end. I was missing 2 inches to install my brackets. Make sure you mark your studs and be conservative on your length.
panda
Thank you for these clear helpful instructions!
Lakhen al ta'azov et amaake
Perciò non rilasciare il corrimano
You are my imaginary pop pop. Thank you
I would love to know what brand of stud finder Tom used. Its a good thing I am painting the stair way after the railing is installed because I have numerous marks on the wall for where the stud is and where it seems to float to. Not to mention it sometimes get larger than 1.5 inches wide. Also, I have wandering AC wiring where there is no wall outlet or switch.
I find a strong magnet works better than most stud finders
After you placed the 6 inch mark off and measured the bottom area of the stair rail stand (holder) I cannot tell if you used that same mark at the top part of the stairs or if you used the very top mark. can you clarify?
Thanks guys. Still might need to hire someone to do it though 😅
I cannot believe how easy this was I opened up my tool kit (wallet) paid a local guy 40.00 and pooof!. Had a new handrail by 9:30
its a pretty major step missed. After some trial and ERROR you have to add the distance that you support bracket adds (distance off the wall) to both ends past the end of the 45 cut.
Thank you!
That looks so easy!! Thanks
Add the length of your return to the actual rail length. Cut the 45 at the actual rail length. This leaves the 1 or 1.5 inches left after your 45 for your return.
When making that 45° cut for the return, does that length always fully cover the gap to the wall on standard railing brackets?
good video to watch. I am doing one of these for the first time this week. wish me luck. :)
+alfredobrown, How'd it turn out? Curious if the railing was 'plowed' or 'unplowed'...
Me 2. Today
Anyone watching this, please be informed that the IRC code requires 34"-38" handrail height, measured vertically from stair tread nose-nose plane to the top of the handrail. Please don't use the handrail height as suggested by this video, or you will be on the wrong side of code compliance.
Had me confused too on the height for code wise
Yeah...a whole two inches too low.
Also, if we're genuinely trying to protect people (as well as to satisfy often-inefficient code), then it's simple common sense to place it high enough to help those who would otherwise be falling down the stairs and not just those who are climbing up the stairs. People are far more likely to die from going down.
For those going down the stairs, having to plunge too far down before finally reaching a railing can be fatal. Compared to that, having to reach your hand up a few inches farther to grab a rail going up is nothing. Code is generally too low, so focus on the top end rather than the bare minimum.
@@frankstared closer to 4 inches, if you want the average height of a safe handrail.
I hope mine go just as easy. I habe three handrails to do 😳👀😳
Great DIY video... Thanks Tom!
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Tawmmy Silvah FTW!!!
I remember when those battery powered drills would need a recharge after installing two of those brackets.
you make so easy. thank you boss
thank very much great instructional video
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Al ta'azov et amaake
In addition to other comments as to height recommend putting a slight radius on the sharp corner on the returns.
Al ta'azov et amaake
Good video. Best hardware for the wall rail returns is a Spring-Bolt.
Thanks guys. Helped me alot
Al ta'azov et amaake
Amazing well done tutorial sir!!!
Very nice!
Lovely video, just confirmed that it's way beyond my capability, so, I'm getting a 'man' in! LOL
Raleigh NC requires 36 from stair nosing. Ive thought it looked a bit high on some less steep scenarios but have been bit in the ass by inspections. Word to the wise.
My North Carolina home was build in 1992. All of the handrails tops are at 32, including the basement and upstairs rails. Inspection overlook?
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Al ta'azov et amaake
How does the return stay tight against the wall? Are you supposed to glue or caulk it? I didn't see him use anything.
duct tape
Thanks for the help!
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Al ta'azov et amaake adayin
Tom, Is a BAD Motor scooter!! He really knows how to teach this GAME!!
Materials needed
Chalk line
Drill bit for pilot holes
Mitre saw
Nails
Wood glue
Measure tape
Level
The ends of the rail is what we needed to know but the video ended. Is there a nail in the wall for the ends or just glue?
All just attached to the main handrail
If you make a 36 " mark on your 4 foot level and make a mark level up from the tip of the tread on top And bottom then use the level as rail. Then u can mark the bottom of rail as bracket line and skip those first three steps.
Wow It was easy, thanks for share
Do those returns attach in any way? Mine was nailed/stapled to the wall and came lose and I came here trying to learn how to repair it.
Did you drill holes in the rail before screwing it into the rail? You missed a step. I like to see ALL the steps.
What can I use to mount brackets in plaster.?
You need to mount it to the studs
Question #1: When you subtract the height of the rail measured at an angle, how do you know the angle? Do you just guess, or do you snap a first chalk line from the top, and use that to set the angle to measure the height of the rail?
Question #2: Sure, switch the mitered ends to make the return, but how long is the return? Do you just cut the ends, install the rail and then set the returns on the work to mark the length?
Why not just tell us? Hulk sad, Thinking Hard.
How long are the returns?
How do you measure the length of the "cut-offs" at the ends? Also, what was the point of the first measurement...the height of the stair? Did the next 32" measurement start at zero or at the stair height mark?
The first mark on the level was to 'set zero' on the level from which he measured the 32. By setting the level on the step below and using the mark to measure the height of rail, allows more accurate measurement from the nose of the step.
Also the code is 34"-38".. check with your building department.
looks perfect..
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In old mason lingo, a level is called a plum-rule.
😊
this guy reminds me of "The wolf" from pulp fiction
Could've Tom have just measured 32 height for the bottom and top, cut a miter and been done..
My c-clamp didn't work the way Tom's did. The bracket arm only accepts it parallel so it sits flush to the underside of the rail. So I tried turning the whole bracket 45 degrees in order for the c-clamp to sit flush with the underside of the bracket arm to the bottom of the rail but then the three bracket holes were too wide for the stud. Tom's bracket looks roundish on the sides allowing for a plumb bracket and a 45 degree turned c-clamp. Wish I had know this before.
Why does everything have to have a set code people are taller now can I just install a handle where I think is best for my height..
Absolutely not! That is what I did and it came out perfect -- for me. Turns out that not everyone is 6'6" like me, so I lowered it. 😀 The code people have a better idea on the average height of many people.
I like it
nice
Do you measure 32 inches from the point of the mark for the nose tread?
hencape
Yes.
Is there a step missing here? How do you determine the distance to cut the ends to make sure the rail is the correct distance off the wall?
Karl Lee the hand rail brackets give you the distance from the wall. You can then determine the length of the returns with the handrail fastened in place
31 inches for the bracket or na?
If you don't have a 7/64" bit they sell them at Ace. (probably for ten times what they're worth)
Does he measure the 32 inches from the mark he made or the bottom of the level. He doesn't show you.
There isn't a 32 in mark to be made; that is your final height, but to get there follow the steps.. Local code states the top of the handrail must be 32 to 34 inches. So he found the diagonal distance of the handrail, which is 3 inches (see 48 sec ) and added it to the height or length of the mounting bracket, which was also 3" (to the bottom screw hole). So, if your final railing height is 32", subtract the sum of the diag. railing (3") and bracket (3") totaling 6". The mark on your level, for the first screw hole, from the scribed mark (black sharpie), will be 26". Check with your local building official for code in your town.
You don't explain how the length of the return pieces got calculated. It just came out right by magic.
36” is BOCA code front front of tread
That all really good info, but I think I'll just go ahead and eyeball it....👁
dry-fit the hand rail on the brackets and take a measurement
Al ta'azov et amaake adayin
does sharpie come off the level easily? haha
Al ta'azov et amaake
Comes right off with some isopropyl alcohol.
Just so I can understand you subtracted 6 I saw you're width was 3 inches. So I'm guessing your screw holes from in bracket from rail too wall was 3 inches. So you subtracted your height by 6 inches am I right
Correct. The handrail itself is 3 inches and the bracket is 3 inches. The first pilot holes he drilled were 24 inches up from the stairs.
@@timf5963 I did my first hand rail your video helped a lot I used twine for my chalk line 😂
Any help would be awesome
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Lakhen al ta'azov et amaake
Nice goofy shoes on the homeowner.
Almost 10 years later and I'm installing a railing. The confusing part in this video was attaching the ends of the railing. The vid didn't mention the min distance from the wall or show them being measured. I am using a round railing with a flat bottom. Otherwise....great vid.
I am guessing that the distance from the wall for the returns will be dictated by the distance the brackets position the railing from the wall. So if your brackets make the railing 2.5 inches from the wall, then you have to cut your returns to match that distance.
Why does a stair railing need to be to code? That one I don’t get.
I think you just measure the distance of rail from the wall, then using the ends cut already, mark the distance on the wood just past the 45 degree section.
But, but, how does one know it will hold the weight as necessary? I mean, that's just what... 6 screws holding up the railing.
good question, as long as the brackets are in wall studs it should be plenty sturdy.
Why not just measure up from the wall string ?
Al ta'azov et amaake adayin
Years of doing it, it gets to be 2nd nature
Doesn’t say how many brackets should be used.
What is that handrail please?
Probably oak or hemlock, get it at local home depot or lowes
I don't understand what angle you choose to measure the rail diagonally.
Steve Oelrich He took a measurement off the bottom, flat part of the stair..,which is called the Tread. He took the same measurement off the Top Tread. That gives your angle.
Steve Oelrich It is a 90 degree angle relative to the stair tread and has nothing to do with the angle the rail is at .
Theoretically, wouldn't it be 45 degrees?