I have a 2015 f150 with the original battery still in it , as of this September 2023 it’s 8 years old, still working 83,000 miles, no issues yet! If it ain’t broke don’t fix it!!!!
That battery was fine…an H6 battery isn’t going to charge up from 12.3V to at least 12.6V from just idling for a while. It needed to be put on an AGM battery charger or driven for a couple hours. Ford programs the battery state of charge target to 80% so it’s never fully charged anyway, 12.7V is about the most you’ll get from it. If you’re not driving long enough for it to recharge (at least 30 minutes per start in fair weather, not cold) every trip then the voltage will continue to go down. Another key indicator of that battery being fine is that the alternator was charging at 14.8V (cycle charge) which means the battery needed charging, otherwise the PCM would have dropped the charging voltage to the 13V range (float charge) or even stopped charging if it hit the 80% SOC target, then you would only see 12.5-12.6V with the engine running. That’s how a smart charging system works.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2016 F150 XLT 302A a few days after I bought it brand new off the lot. That was 190K miles ago and have had zero issues. Original battery lasted 5 years. I unplugged the BMS on my 2018 F150 Lariat 502A the same day that I bought it before even driving it off the lot. That was 124K miles ago and I have had zero issues. Original battery lasted 6 years. The reason that I always unplug the BMS is to disable the idiotic Stop/Start function. I've never had to reset or reprogram anything when installing a new battery. Never have had any kind of a charging issue.
So you're saying by simply removing the BMS the stop/start is disabled? ... I've just spent $80 on a module for the obd2 that more or less fools the system into thinking it's turned off. Do you know, does removing the BMS affect anything else?
Your stop/start will be disabled and your battery will stay fully charged instead of being managed between 80-100% depending on how the computer feels about it.
it sends a small low voltage 12 volts into the battery cables which keeps power on to the various computer modules so they dont have to relearn the driving habits to maximize fuel ecomomy and such
if you don't connect the memory saver, the truck will have to relearn certain components after time. some items are heated rear window, heated seats, climate control, heated steering wheel, audio, clock, navigation and fuel trims. If you're on E-85 FFV it will have a rough start and sometimes not start until adaptation is complete.
Keeping the battery top clean reduces phantom drain, plus proper charging with a smart charger each season change will extend battery life. Florida summers are worse than northern winters on battery life. AC really has a negative effect on battery recovery.
wow thats crazy. mine is reading 10.25 cold. but no battery indicator. what gave me a red flag was a super lazy startup and my power running boards are super slow. oh and when i arrive to work and turn off my truck i normally listen to my radio for 10 minues with ignition ON, but after less than 60 seconds of radio listening the truck turns off automatically to "preserve battery".
my Son's 2014 f150 will turn off the electric power steering assist when the battery gets below 12.3v. dangerous as hell when you're on the hi way going 60mph and lose most of your steering.
I have a 2018 f150 single cab....So for a new battery, i let it sit for 8hrs then i do the steps which were 5times bright lights then 3 times on the break then i started up??! Thanks in advance...
I have a 2018 ford f150 and just switched my battery out to a new duralast h8. 1000 cca. After I put the new battery in my voltage drops when I accelerate. Goes from 14.4 down to 11.9 until I take my foot off the gas then it goes back up. When I come to a complete stop my voltage is at 11.9 also. I have a new high output alternator, connections seem fine.. doesn't make sense on why it is doing this.. Does anyone know what could be going on?
During acceleration the ac compressor and alternator will not be on to deliver more power. This saves on fuel. The alternator will only charge when the battery needs it.
@@bbbjim1fixedit why does it drop so much voltage tho? This has never happened before. Even with my battery that was on 10 percent life still had a solid 12.8 volts. It never had an acceleration problem when giving it gas or anything. It shouldn't drop down past 13.5 ever, especially with a new battery.
why does it drop so much voltage tho? This has never happened before. Even with my battery that was on 10 percent life still had a solid 12.8 volts. It never had an acceleration problem when giving it gas or anything. It shouldn't drop down past 13.5 ever, especially with a new battery. @@bbbjim1fixedit
it doesnt make sense on why when I'm at idle and driving my resting voltage is at 11.9.. I can't even play music because my voltage will drop under 10. @@bbbjim1fixedit
I have a 2015 f150 with the original battery still in it , as of this September 2023 it’s 8 years old, still working 83,000 miles, no issues yet! If it ain’t broke don’t fix it!!!!
Go play the lottery
I also have a 2015 with it's original battery. Mine is 8 years 7 months old right now. Is yours still holding up?
Thanks for calling out all the socket sizes you were using. Very helpful!
Glad you liked the video
That battery was fine…an H6 battery isn’t going to charge up from 12.3V to at least 12.6V from just idling for a while. It needed to be put on an AGM battery charger or driven for a couple hours. Ford programs the battery state of charge target to 80% so it’s never fully charged anyway, 12.7V is about the most you’ll get from it. If you’re not driving long enough for it to recharge (at least 30 minutes per start in fair weather, not cold) every trip then the voltage will continue to go down. Another key indicator of that battery being fine is that the alternator was charging at 14.8V (cycle charge) which means the battery needed charging, otherwise the PCM would have dropped the charging voltage to the 13V range (float charge) or even stopped charging if it hit the 80% SOC target, then you would only see 12.5-12.6V with the engine running. That’s how a smart charging system works.
Can you change the soc to a higher value in the bcm configuration?
I unplugged the BMS on my 2016 F150 XLT 302A a few days after I bought it brand new off the lot. That was 190K miles ago and have had zero issues. Original battery lasted 5 years.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2018 F150 Lariat 502A the same day that I bought it before even driving it off the lot. That was 124K miles ago and I have had zero issues. Original battery lasted 6 years.
The reason that I always unplug the BMS is to disable the idiotic Stop/Start function. I've never had to reset or reprogram anything when installing a new battery. Never have had any kind of a charging issue.
Good to hear
So you're saying by simply removing the BMS the stop/start is disabled?
... I've just spent $80 on a module for the obd2 that more or less fools the system into thinking it's turned off.
Do you know, does removing the BMS affect anything else?
Your stop/start will be disabled and your battery will stay fully charged instead of being managed between 80-100% depending on how the computer feels about it.
Please explain your jargon.....
What is a Memory Saver?
it sends a small low voltage 12 volts into the battery cables which keeps power on to the various computer modules so they dont have to relearn the driving habits to maximize fuel ecomomy and such
if you don't connect the memory saver, the truck will have to relearn certain components after time. some items are heated rear window, heated seats, climate control, heated steering wheel, audio, clock, navigation and fuel trims. If you're on E-85 FFV it will have a rough start and sometimes not start until adaptation is complete.
Any 12 volt battery will work as a memory saver eg. cordless drill etc.
You put the girdle on upside down when installing the new battery.
it can go on either way, just so the hold down clamp is clear
What did the battery cost?
this is an AGM battery, I paid a little under $200 US dollars at Walmart
Keeping the battery top clean reduces phantom drain, plus proper charging with a smart charger each season change will extend battery life. Florida summers are worse than northern winters on battery life. AC really has a negative effect on battery recovery.
Very true about the heat killing battery life vs cold
@@bbbjim1fixedit charge it 4 times a year at least.
wow thats crazy. mine is reading 10.25 cold. but no battery indicator. what gave me a red flag was a super lazy startup and my power running boards are super slow. oh and when i arrive to work and turn off my truck i normally listen to my radio for 10 minues with ignition ON, but after less than 60 seconds of radio listening the truck turns off automatically to "preserve battery".
eventually the radio will stay off along with other non essential features and will be restored with a new battery and resetting the bms
@@bbbjim1fixedit I replaced the battery yesterday after commenting. I don’t have the BMS sensor in my negative terminal on my 16’.
my Son's 2014 f150 will turn off the electric power steering assist when the battery gets below 12.3v. dangerous as hell when you're on the hi way going 60mph and lose most of your steering.
@@BigBaggsYo thats an alternator issue.
I have a 2018 f150 single cab....So for a new battery, i let it sit for 8hrs then i do the steps which were 5times bright lights then 3 times on the break then i started up??! Thanks in advance...
Doing those steps will reset the computer and recognize the new battery
BTW you installed the battery "girdle" upside down.
I sure did, thanks for noticing, and I hope yours goes on the right way
I saw the same thing. I had to go back in the video to confirm
Nice job but you installed your battery insulation blanket upside down
I most certainly did, thanks for noticing and liking the video
I have a 2018 ford f150 and just switched my battery out to a new duralast h8. 1000 cca. After I put the new battery in my voltage drops when I accelerate. Goes from 14.4 down to 11.9 until I take my foot off the gas then it goes back up. When I come to a complete stop my voltage is at 11.9 also. I have a new high output alternator, connections seem fine.. doesn't make sense on why it is doing this.. Does anyone know what could be going on?
During acceleration the ac compressor and alternator will not be on to deliver more power. This saves on fuel. The alternator will only charge when the battery needs it.
@@bbbjim1fixedit why does it drop so much voltage tho? This has never happened before. Even with my battery that was on 10 percent life still had a solid 12.8 volts. It never had an acceleration problem when giving it gas or anything. It shouldn't drop down past 13.5 ever, especially with a new battery.
why does it drop so much voltage tho? This has never happened before. Even with my battery that was on 10 percent life still had a solid 12.8 volts. It never had an acceleration problem when giving it gas or anything. It shouldn't drop down past 13.5 ever, especially with a new battery. @@bbbjim1fixedit
@@RYDR_Moto The healthier the battery the less it will get charged
it doesnt make sense on why when I'm at idle and driving my resting voltage is at 11.9.. I can't even play music because my voltage will drop under 10. @@bbbjim1fixedit