Trying to revive my neglected Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin TR4 iO after being abandoned for years
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2023
- Welcome back to the channel, in this video we start to have a look at reviving my Mitsubishi iO Pajero Pinin which got side tracked years ago after being replaced by another vehicle, there was a couple of minor jobs to do before selling it at the time but after covid hit i just never got around to sorting it out
While using it around the garden and drive to move trailers and cars about the clutch started to slip leaving it in an even worse state and its not moved for about three tears
So in this video we give it a clean and and see if it'll start up - Авто та транспорт
Hi mate!! Amazing job!! Could you please share the suspension setup??
tbh it was quite a while ago now and the its no longer here but from memory the front was lifted by dropping the hub on the strut by one hole then adding reinforcement (angle iron and c section ) - the rear needed major reconstruction due to rust so i made new upper spring mounts and fitted mk5 escort front coil springs and modified sierra rear shocks (length was ideal but mounting holes needed modifying )
сгнил бедолага,тачка зверь,у меня такой же только темносиний и не гнилой
да, к сожалению, это плохо, наша страна не любит старые машины
Hi i bought one on february (has been sitting in a garage for 7 years then someone bought it made 40k km then sold it to me) a 1.8 MPI 4WD 3 doors and permanently 4x4 great to get in fields, dirt / forest road but can"t goes higher than 145-150km/h and drink 12-14l/100km but the transmission gets quite noisy when after 3000rpm.
Overall it's easy to maintain in good shape BUT rust.. rust.
Rust on these model is quite common (they are 20 years old so..)
Front shield, (the oil pan cover plate under it there is the metal bar where it's bolted where the radiator is laying tend to keep some water and rust), battery support too, front wheel arch + the strut support mine weren't very rusty but when i was brushing my metallic brush got through the rust and i've found that i could grab my strut when i discover the hole..
The paint on the wheel tend to corrode too, mines are the 10 branch alloy and needed a good brush and new paints.
The rear wheel arch tend to get rusty too, the exhaust part before the catalytic converter tend to have a few holes too :)
And i didn't mention the fuel line that rust away and one day you try to get your tank full but instead the fuel goes on the floor 🤣
Those are great but you need when you bought one you need alway keep in mind to change the brake caliped (yes rust again :D)
Buy a rust converter and spray twice all the chassis part after cleaning it with compressed air, and do the same on the outside with rust converter twice + anti-rust exterior paint (i've used hammerite)
The belt / water pump is easy to change when bolt arn't rusty too (keep in mind that the belt need replacement every 5 years or 150k km for those pinin) 😅
Be aware that the transfert box filling plug car be easily cracked if you used too much torque (the last owner of mine made a crack from where oil was leaking so i've used JB weld with a toothpick and waited 3 days for curing and it worked)
Parts arn't easy to find and used parts COST a lot.. and new ones well.. i've bought an exhaust pipe with the braid and new one was 180euros when for my golf 4 new on was 75euros 🥲
i bought mine 2500 euros with 125k km but needed 4 tires, belts, water pump, front brakes, and the overall rust treatment even if the exterior looked completely brand new !
And discover that my exhaut braid was in bad shape while doing all the oils fluids changes.
In good shape those can be sold from 7500-8000euros up to 10k (in france)i advise too anyone who would buy one to get either a good welder or a welding post because welding is quite costly (2200 euros for a 15x15 plates + weld for the left strut support in my case i'm gonna buy a welding post soon since i want to make a bullbar and a stepbar)
I forgot to tell you about the transmission support too there arn't any hole on the extremity so water stays here and rust another point to check !
It's my first 4x4 i like it but i've spent much time taking care of the rust properly than every maintenance of my passat or my golf combined even if it was in good shape from the outisde 🙄
For anyone reading, you need to use and try rust converter and not just grind it and paint on it (i've seen it a LOT of time and that was what the the previous owner did) and this didn't fix the rust problem only hiding it, and using spray can TOO..
sounds like you've had some fun with yours, rust is definitely a major issue on these, I've replaced the rear half of the chassis legs with new ones from Mitsubishi as well as the fuel filler neck , fabricated a new front rad cross member as well as custom rear suspension spring mounts etc i spent a lot of time under this one lol
@@paulsprojects1 Wow that was a huge amount of work !
I do think that the pinin paint from factory was good quality but among all the 4x4 users a lot of them didn't take care of them and cleaned them enough and they got eaten slowly years by years, how much did the news rear chassis leg cost you ? wasn't it too expensive ?
The last thing i got with mine after all i've said before was taking care of a new p0421 odb CEL (since i have a MPI i have 2 o2 sensor one in the pre cat and one after between both cat)
I've replaced the exhaust pipe between them since he was leaking (spent 2 days to drill every 20 years old rusty bolt and got the pipe, secod cat out and put new shiny rust free bolt and nuts so if i need to work on it later i won't have such a pain, or if someone else need to do it 😅), and got the light 50km after that, i changed the 2nd o2 sensor (since i didn't take out my pre cat and he was in a good shape) and the light come back again..
Check of all the plugs, wires, nothing suspiscious then find that the last owner welded a light bulb and hide it into a black metallic piece, the heater of the first o2 sensor was broken so the was having a CEL and instead of buying a new one he just weld a light so the calculator would think it was working since it was using energy..
And since there was an exhaust leak between both o2 sensor i got the CEL p0421 but not the cel of the first o2 since he done that.. spend a good amount of time finding HOW i got a CEL after replacing a leaking exhaust ! 🤣🤣
(Since i needed to replace front passenger side CV boot and didn't have much time spend some more at the mechanics but they put a generic CV boot and he is far too long and now do squiky rubber sound while i'm less than 5km/h or slowly in reverse.. they won't do it all again since it's working no leaks, and it's common for them to have 4x4 doing weird noises.. 🙄didn't got one before they worked on it.. I'm really cursed with my pinin)
The last thing i could upgrade on it (it's 100% stock except for a radio with a ~50km radius for hunt and a led bar light) would be add a bullbar but stock one are rare as F.. and in France you can't drive with a bullbar except if it's from the original supplier and for cars before 2010..
I will change my filler neck too next year i think so, it was changed to a rubber pipe for propane gaz /... another good fix by the last owner.. and it didn't leak but i can smell sometimes fuel vapor going through the filler pipe it's not that bad but i should do it sooner or later, where did you bought yours ?
And i've found that since i've used 80w90 insted of 75w90 for the transfert box the sound was a lot lowered (since it's a all time 4x4 i'ts a lot enjoyable to drive it BUT the gearstick is a little.. hard ? when the oil isn't heated and goes smoothly after 1-2km this is the only downside i've found him since all the repairs !)
A great and enjoyable dirt road, forest 4x4 i do think it's a lot greater than the jimny, rav4 and other small 4x4.
Hope yours doing great for another 20 years !
Cheers
Won't take long to get that sorted Paul.
its been sold now