I Just have to echo the other comments about the quality of this video. No inane chatter or tedious introductions, just jam-packed with information. Bravo.
I have just started getting into watching videos about diy cnc, and I have to echo all the other comments, this video is very thorough, no filler, it makes me want this machine. I have a small custom-made guitar amplifier business, and using this to mill aluminium sheet to make chassis is my goal. It's at the top of my list now.
In terms of ROI vs time spent watching, that was one of the very best videos I’ve seen on any subject. Just received the Vasto - still in the boxes. Had decided on a Shapeoko because of the community, support, etc but along came the Vasto with 40w diode and features versus price that rocked the boat. Kudos to you - you have a new subscriber. Looking forward to your future productions on the subject.
First time on your channel…..I’m f-king subbing. No fluff review, straight to the point. Just the right amount of fast forward jump cuts to convey the information. The music was pleasant, not annoying👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks so much for your video, it was fantastic. Coming from a 3D printing background, the concepts and steps you covered made me feel far less 'terrified' of this new direction I'm heading toward. Cheers, JAYTEE
Hats off to your detailed work as always, U always do an amazing job and this way people who don't know much can also learn more about it, respect & Love to U at all times!!!
Long time fan here, came across the channel when searching for tips on programming the arduino. I have a confession to make. For some months I've been using this exact video as a sleeping pill. It's perfect to fall to sleep when the soft voice and music is playing in the background. It doesn't hurt either that your dreams are filled with adventures in the cnc world! 😀
I just pulled the trigger on one of these and I can't thank you enough for this video!!! This makes a terrific starting point, especially the Aluminum and steel. Thanks also for the links for the bits. I got the 1.5 kw spindle as well. Should be here in about a week!!! Yee Hah!!!
@@wukawak1057 Hi, So far so good. I got delayed setting it up and so I'm just now adjusting and tuning. I also bought the 1.5 kw Spindle but I haven't gotten that installed yet (More reading) . I'd make a video but TechyDIY did such a good job with this one I don't know what I could contribute.
Wow. I think that might just be the best and most thorough review (of anything) I've ever seen!! Watched through from start to finish and you answered every one of my questions (except one). I'm also $2300 poorer now, thank you for that--but I am looking forward to taking delivery! ;) You've earned my subscription. The one question I have is what do you think of vacuum systems (vs. blown air) for these machines?
Thanks. You will want to use a dust shoe / boot for dust extraction, the only reason I don't use one while filming is because it blocks the camera view. The air blast is there to clear chips away from the end mill.
These certainly have a market depending on what material you will use the most. Honestly if you are primarily working with metal it's price easily puts you in the RF-15 class milling machine range minus the CNC conversion. Just something to consider for those looking into these since cuts in steel will have to be pretty light to avoid chatter. This one does appear to be nicely built compared to other small cnc routers I have looked at.
@@arbjful completely different concepts and pricing tiers. Sherline is precision equipment aimed at machining small to very small parts on a very rigid cross table structure. This one is a budget CNC router designed for carving / milling / engraving reasonably sized flat work pieces and for a limited amount of 3D carving / engraving (as long as some constraints are satisfied), since it makes use of linear rails and ball screws it can carve soft metals with ease and low maintenance requirements. Please note other CNC routers in lower price tiers won't be able to do the same, and if you carefully browse their listings you'll most likely see they can *engrave*, while the terms "carving" and "milling" are carefully and tactically omitted.
What comparable machine would you recommend for only cutting aluminum or copper cabinet and chassis for high end audio amplifiers? Most of the copper and aluminum plate that is use is less than 3/8".
I’m just learning about purchasing a CNC router for metal and aluminum work. While I’m not familiar with current pricing on well-known brands, it seems like someone fabricated this as a DIY machine, perhaps using the sponsor, PCBway???? It just seems that if you are going to go the consumer, open-source, Arduino route and will be assembling this yourself, it’s a bit over priced IMO? Is this a truly unbiased review?
If that's the sort of thing you're into, there's an existing project called PrintNC that's extremely capable. Also MPCNC, but that's more hobbyist and the guy that runs the project is pretty... reserved... about community involvement and contributions.
FoxAlien Vasto bit.ly/3kV2L5w FoxAlien Vasto with 40W laser bit.ly/3PczH7o FoxAlien low profile vice bit.ly/3sv0Ngr Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you click on the link and buy something, you will not pay anything extra, but I might receive a small income, which is used to pay for future videos.
This is a great documentation of what the machine can do. In the future it would be good if included the information on the particular aluminum and steel alloys you are cutting. There are several differences in common stock and when evaluating a machine that data would be required for an apples to apples comparison.
@@JulienStoeffler Yeah this CNC is cutting the bright mild steel fairly well. I'm looking at options for milling fine injection molds and it looks like with the right feeds and speeds on shallow cut this could be exactly what I'm after.
@@robertmartin2936 I've started metal working on a hobby CNC router, which is not as good as this one. It is definitely challenging, and what you want to do sounds a bit demanding (I'm not familiar with injection molds, but I imagine it's hard steel and it needs a lot of precision). Not saying you can't do it, but it's going to be time consuming to understand the limitations of the machine, and the impact it has on the milling operation. That may sounds a bit abstract, but for example those spindles are high RPM, so you need small tools, and small tools have more deflection and break easier. There are low RPM spindles, but they're expensive, and then the machine rigidity may be too weak then, because of the high torque. The frame is made of aluminium, which doesn't absorb vibrations, which means the tool, will only last a few hours on hard steel... So I think if you buy such a "cheap" machine (it looks great in its category), you need to manage your expectations, in terms of time it will take to get something done. For me it's also part of the fun, but it can be frustrating sometimes, and in you case it could mean taking a week to make 1 part, and having to start over 3 or 4 times.
Could you make a video on the 1.5kW spindle ? How it mounted to the Z axis, which VFD you chose, how you did the wiring, but also how you integrate it with the GRBL software. Did you need to upgrade the Z axis linear rails/ball screws or stepper motors ? If upgrading the wm3020 machine, do you expect the Z axis would need upgrading for a 5-6kg spindle and adapter mounting plate ?
For very shallow cuts like you tried on the first steel pockets I would try a fresh HSS end mill instead. Carbide is undoubtedly a better end mill material but it cannot be made as sharp as HSS due to its manufacturing. For shallow cuts and feed rates try a high flute count HSS bit.
this thing can cut steel?? wow! I have been told everywhere that this kind of (cheap) CNC routers don't work well with ferrous metals. I wonder if it can also cut titanium or tungsten
@@absolute___zero So long as you can adjust the machine to run shallow enough cuts with the right speeds and feeds just about any machine can cut steel, although the cut quality may not always be the greatest.
It's a very slow way to make a pcb. I was thinking of buying a cheapo cnc to make my pcb's, but then I watched GreatScott's video about this, and it is almost invariably simpler and quicker to etch your own PCB's. Or, there are services which can make them for you for $2 a PCB! Hence, I've shelved the idea of getting a cnc for this purpose.
Etching certainly gives better results, except for drilling holes and outlines etc. the cnc excels at that. The Cnc allows you to do far more than etch pcbs, like cut face panels, machine custom knobs etc.
As I expected by seeing what the framing looked like: *this will chatter like crazy with steel.* Sure enough, that's what they (effectively) said here in in there steel cutting attempt. He is right that a higher torque spindle would improve this, as the cutter was noticeably slowing even on the shallower ramp angles. A slowing spindle means even higher chipload, so more chatter and cutter breakages. Using a 1/4 base to a stubby 1/8" end mill would probably be this machine's best bet for trying to cut steel, but you will rightly feel like you are abusing the machine every time you try. Flood coolant will also help a lot, but it won't make a non-rigid machine rigid. It will make cutting alu so much nicer _and quieter._ (all that is from years of use experience with cnc router at home, comparably built but in a smaller overall build, and with upgrades like flood coolant)
The stock spindle is useless for milling steel, but with the 1.5kW spindle it is a totally different machine (shown towards the end of the video). I regularly cut steel with it, you just have to use high rpm and light cuts. Avoiding any resonance. Also a few sand bags help to dampen the bed. It requires a different approach to using a mill.
Hello again, sorry to keep troubling you. At 19:33 you put macros in on button 3 and 4 to find the edge in the X and Y directions respectively. Do you then use this information on the SW scale to move both X and Y in by half the cutter diameter to find the exact corner? Thanks again for any pointers.
I am on the fence with fox alien because it is a belt-driven system, I love all of the features of their CNC's and would place an order today - if it was not belt driven. I currently do not have a CNC nor have much knowledge of cnc's I am looking for a 12x24" with spindle which made the 4040 very desireable - it is between the 4040 and shapeoko 5.
Question on your Feed Rates. I bought the Vasto and found the max feed rates on X and Y axis are set to 1500 mm/min $110 = 1500.000 (X-axis maximum rate, mm/min) $111 = 1500.000 (Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min) Are you sure your published feed rates were achieved?
My machine operates at over 5000mm/min, you have to test and find where it starts missing steps then decrease to about 80%. It is machine dependent, careful alignment helps. Increasing the acceleration too much will cause problems. Also the XL and XXL machines cannot achieve the same speeds.
Thank you for a very informative video of how to set up and use. At about 12:58 you describe how you set the Z zero at 3.20mm bottom. What advantage/difference does this make over setting to 3.20mm top? Thank you
I really found this video very useful and well put together. Question, did you actually measure the electrical power used by that 40W laser at max power setting?
@@techydiy I am using the 40w gold laser (LaserTree?), works pretty ok. I measured the electrical power at 18w (12V x 1.5A) at 100% power. I really don't know why they call it a 40W laser.. Anyway, I was interested to know the electrical power for that laser you are using in the video. Thanks!
Huge thanks. I've been wondering about many machines available and this video is by far the most useful I've seen about any machine video I've personally happened to see. 10/10 and double 👍👍 Actually checked out the listings, but they're bit confusing as some models mention Makita router? To my understanding you got bundle with spindle motor and laser? Could you possibly give the manufacturer SKU for us curious? Edit: Apparently it's this SKU: BD-Vasto-40W-Sea ?
There are only two options, with or without the laser. It always comes with a 400w spindle motor and additional mounts for other routers (like the Makita) or vfd spindle motors.
Hi, great review! But don't you think the x-axis ball screw that is not properly protected and covered cannot be damaged by the accumulation of sawdust and milling waste? Cheers
Thank you for doing this, this cnc seems to possibly be what I have been looking for. Do you think that if one upgraded to a powerful spindle and braced the bed, that the device could cut a knife profile with a steel thickness of say 3-4 mm, or would that be too ambitious?
I'd love to see a CNC like this, only with a sturdier lower bearing for the chuck. That I suspect is where much of the chattering is coming from. Does anyone make one like this?
@@garycaruso4883 The issue I have with most 3D routers on the market today is the lack of support at the the spindle chuck end to cope with side-loads. Escalation of expectations means that people attempt to use router spindles that are only supposed to cut plastic, wood etc. to cut aluminium, brass and even steel and end up trashing the spindle's built-in bearings with excessive side-wear. They will usually last long enough for a UA-cam video or two though. I have ideas of fitting a proper spindle to a low-cost CNC router using taper roller bearings to deal with side-loads and allow adjustment to reduce spindle slop. The actual rotary power to this taper-roller spindle would be supplied off the Z-axis via a flexible cable drive or similar. This would massively reduce the all-up weight on the Z-axis which would no longer have to carry the weight of the spindle motor. There are other advantages to this approach such as being able to mount the spindle axis a lot closer to the Z-axis rails since the 'naked' spindle should be a lot slimmer than a router motor body. This would result in an increase in machining precision since there would be less leverage and deflection when cutting into the side of harder materials such as metals.
everything but linear rails, i don't think it'd be all that hard to modify it, replace the upper rollers on the side supports with a block to mount a linear bearing, it might raise the height a bit, some flt bar under the rail itself. the other axis would have the mod on the bottom to bring it back down, the only problem then is the upper rail. maybe a block with ears milled in to extend the mount... that's the only hard part of modding it. not sure, but i think the z is already linear rails.
@@techydiy yah, took a look around, there's a massive ONE video on converting the 4030 to linear rails, it's been done, but... perhaps it's just such a peculiar idea that it's that rare.
How does this compare with a sherline mill? Can this be used for milling small aluminum parts? Our production volume is not high, 10-20 parts per month, mostly design and development, we need to mill aluminum and brass sometimes steel
Hello. I was thinking in buying one of this FoxAlien Vasto CNC. Do you think is possible to use a 80mm 2.2KW Spindle in this cnc? I know the supplied clamp/holder is only 65mm which is perfect for 1.5KW round spindle. Would be possible to use a Square 2.2KW Spindle? Do you know what is the distance between holes that held in place spindle clamp, 4 on each side? Thanks.
Yes others have used 2.2kW 80mm spindles. You just have to drill the right mounting holes in the 80mm holder or make up an adapter plate. The mounting holes are 70mm horizontal spacing, 25mm vertical spacing (75mm total)
Did the bits wear very quickly due to heat and lack of lubrication? I have a large CNC I use for woodworking, but don't think I would be able to do metal work on it without cooling lubrication.
No, the end mills have coatings designed for it and if the feeds and speeds are calculated correctly then the chips should be taking away heat. You can see smoke in some of the steel footage, which is just the oil from the surface of the steel burning off.
@@techydiy I have a 2hp spindle, so I guess I need to give this a shot with the appropriate endmills. What have you found (brand, pn) that worked well?
Any chance you can post the settings for the user one button when you used the probe to measure the material height. Or a quick video on how to perform the relative measurements.
G91G21; G38.2Z-30F100; G0Z1; G38.2Z-1F10 With the probe target located on the bottom surface Run the script Zero the the z axis Jog the Z axis upwards Move the probe target to somewhere on the top surface Jog the X,Y,Z to a position above the probe target Run the script again Read the z axis height
I'm looking for a smaller CNC router that has most or all of the features of the Vasto featured here -- ball-screws, linear rail supports, decent-sized stepper motors or preferably closed-loop synchronous motors etc. but in a smaller package, something in the 3018 form factor if possible. Other good things would be an uprated spindle motor to start with, preferably air-cooled rather than a water-cooled spindle motor with VFD since that's more complexity than I really want to deal with given the limited space I have in my workshop. Is there anything like that in the market? I've been monitoring the Makera Kickstarter offering, the desktop Carvera with some interest but I'm open to other possible offerings if they're out there, especially at a lower price point.
@@techydiy I'm looking for something, even assembled from a kit-of-parts like the Vasto, that works well out-of-the-box as a router but fits into the 3018-sized desktop workspace. I'd prefer not to design my own machine from individual parts, I'd rather have a kit I can assemble and have confidence it will work well from day one. The Foxalien Vasto looks like a decent design in that regard, absent the flex in the frame you demonstrated in the video, but it's just bigger than I can cope with in my limited working space.
@@robertsneddon731 hi Robert, please comment if/when You find what you're after. I have exactly the same expectations as yours. from a new cnc router. Thanks
I have a Stepcraft 420, which I mostly use for machining brass and nickel silver. I've never tried steel, as I've not needed to, and I'm reluctant to cut it dry. I have bought ball screws to upgrade my Stepcraft, but have not yet fitted them. Metal cutting machines of a domestic size like these are wonderful - and I love mine - I'm glad to see other machines on the market. The one thing this video didn't cover was the accuracy of the finished parts. Certainly it should be possible to produce some small, delicate and accurate work. Mine does, so I dare say this will/could.
Hi first very nice review as others mentioned. Now, I have looked at the controller box @4:11 and I don't see a way to connect a 4th axe to the machine. Do you think it would be possible to add a 4th axe without having to change the controller altogether ?
I'm not able to make those adjustments that you did on your setting on my brand new vasto machine I bought, and can a masuter pro under the same program the vasto?
love this machine! What do users respond to noise level of unit. I know spindle vrs router produce less noise, are there other steps to make unit quieter?
hi please shed some light on a project i want to make, i want to have the back of my fight tank has infinity mirror, i was thinking maybe i can use the back of the tank as one mirror then add another mirror in front with leds in between with a frame holding the mirror into the back of the tank, my questions are do i use one way mirror on the back of the tank? if so do i need the reflective part looking away from front of the tank or looking in? and does it need to be installed from outside? if so which film do you recomnd, also as for the mirror part do i need the second part be glass with mirror film on it or can a mirror film be used say on wood or wall?
Hi Techy, So I have a Vasto and I also purchased a water cooled 1.5 kw spindle but I can't seem to figure out how to turn the motor on with the Vasto. Is it done with the control box set to laser mode? Did I miss the instructions on how to do it somewhere in the manuals? Any help here or some guidance n where to look would be greatly appreciated :)
Depending on your model of vfd, it will have a control input that can be used to turn the spindle on or off. You could use a relay powered by the Vasto spindle motor leads and connect the relay switch terminals to the vfd. I will make a video about how to control speed etc. properly from the Vasto but it will take a while.
@@techydiy I get what your saying. I do have some electrical experience but this is the first new CNC I have ever owned and so I was a little hesitant to play around with it. I'll do some simple metering and look into a relay. A video to control speed would be great.
Is there any information on the torque specifications of the stepper motors or is there any part number label on the motors. I noticed they are dual spindle types. Also curious to find out the size of the gap between the two x-axis linear rails @41:48. I am trying to figure out how sturdy the z-axis carraige might be on this model.
I’m curious… is the controller software open for XYZ axes measurements (setting it only by manual) or are those limits immutable in the software? It seems as though a 4040-XE with a Makita upgrade to spindle might allow you to machine different build frame parts from stainless for a build bed upgrade at half the cost
@@techydiy interesting… so someone might take a stock Vasto and, conceivably, swap linear rails, extruded aluminum, and add some more cable track etc to mod it for an expanded build area?
This machine ticks all the boxes in terms of build spec, can you tell me if the laser could be upgraded to one of new 40w output units from X Tool or Atomstack.
I Just have to echo the other comments about the quality of this video. No inane chatter or tedious introductions, just jam-packed with information. Bravo.
I have just started getting into watching videos about diy cnc, and I have to echo all the other comments, this video is very thorough, no filler, it makes me want this machine. I have a small custom-made guitar amplifier business, and using this to mill aluminium sheet to make chassis is my goal. It's at the top of my list now.
In terms of ROI vs time spent watching, that was one of the very best videos I’ve seen on any subject. Just received the Vasto - still in the boxes. Had decided on a Shapeoko because of the community, support, etc but along came the Vasto with 40w diode and features versus price that rocked the boat. Kudos to you - you have a new subscriber. Looking forward to your future productions on the subject.
You made the right choice.
I watched the whole video because it was so informative - and don't even have immediate plans on buying it. 👍
First time on your channel…..I’m f-king subbing. No fluff review, straight to the point. Just the right amount of fast forward jump cuts to convey the information. The music was pleasant, not annoying👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Drat, yet another good machine I can't afford.
Build your own!
@@alfredoojeda7977 If you have a brain,use it!
shut up
@@alfredoojeda7977 is that the sum total of your command of the colonial language?
lowkey im here just to copy it and build my own
Thanks so much for your video, it was fantastic. Coming from a 3D printing background, the concepts and steps you covered made me feel far less 'terrified' of this new direction I'm heading toward. Cheers, JAYTEE
Your command of gcode, and simplistic step-by-step hand holding instruction just won you another aspiring-noob.
Hats off to your detailed work as always, U always do an amazing job and this way people who don't know much can also learn more about it, respect & Love to U at all times!!!
Long time fan here, came across the channel when searching for tips on programming the arduino.
I have a confession to make. For some months I've been using this exact video as a sleeping pill. It's perfect to fall to sleep when the soft voice and music is playing in the background.
It doesn't hurt either that your dreams are filled with adventures in the cnc world! 😀
That is funny
I just pulled the trigger on one of these and I can't thank you enough for this video!!! This makes a terrific starting point, especially the Aluminum and steel. Thanks also for the links for the bits. I got the 1.5 kw spindle as well. Should be here in about a week!!! Yee Hah!!!
Hows it goin for ya?
@@wukawak1057 Hi, So far so good. I got delayed setting it up and so I'm just now adjusting and tuning. I also bought the 1.5 kw Spindle but I haven't gotten that installed yet (More reading) . I'd make a video but TechyDIY did such a good job with this one I don't know what I could contribute.
Your videos are great. No fluff. Just info. Great!
Wow. I think that might just be the best and most thorough review (of anything) I've ever seen!! Watched through from start to finish and you answered every one of my questions (except one). I'm also $2300 poorer now, thank you for that--but I am looking forward to taking delivery! ;) You've earned my subscription. The one question I have is what do you think of vacuum systems (vs. blown air) for these machines?
Thanks. You will want to use a dust shoe / boot for dust extraction, the only reason I don't use one while filming is because it blocks the camera view. The air blast is there to clear chips away from the end mill.
These certainly have a market depending on what material you will use the most. Honestly if you are primarily working with metal it's price easily puts you in the RF-15 class milling machine range minus the CNC conversion. Just something to consider for those looking into these since cuts in steel will have to be pretty light to avoid chatter. This one does appear to be nicely built compared to other small cnc routers I have looked at.
How does this compare with sherline mill?
@@arbjful completely different concepts and pricing tiers. Sherline is precision equipment aimed at machining small to very small parts on a very rigid cross table structure. This one is a budget CNC router designed for carving / milling / engraving reasonably sized flat work pieces and for a limited amount of 3D carving / engraving (as long as some constraints are satisfied), since it makes use of linear rails and ball screws it can carve soft metals with ease and low maintenance requirements. Please note other CNC routers in lower price tiers won't be able to do the same, and if you carefully browse their listings you'll most likely see they can *engrave*, while the terms "carving" and "milling" are carefully and tactically omitted.
What comparable machine would you recommend for only cutting aluminum or copper cabinet and chassis for high end audio amplifiers? Most of the copper and aluminum plate that is use is less than 3/8".
I’m just learning about purchasing a CNC router for metal and aluminum work. While I’m not familiar with current pricing on well-known brands, it seems like someone fabricated this as a DIY machine, perhaps using the sponsor, PCBway???? It just seems that if you are going to go the consumer, open-source, Arduino route and will be assembling this yourself, it’s a bit over priced IMO? Is this a truly unbiased review?
This really was one of the best reviews I have seen in a long time.
Excellent review! I think I've changed my CNC mill purchase direction based upon this information.
what a brilliant piece of kit. Can't afford one, so will probably have to make my own!
If you do, document - open/source the process!
If that's the sort of thing you're into, there's an existing project called PrintNC that's extremely capable. Also MPCNC, but that's more hobbyist and the guy that runs the project is pretty... reserved... about community involvement and contributions.
@@evanlane1690 Thanks! Is there a 5 axis open source cnc?
@@evanlane1690 that looks like a pretty straight forward build. i'll take a closer look in the coming days. thanks for recommending it.
Thanks for this review and tutorial, I just received this machine at Christmas and am looking forward to getting started.
Good job showing us the capabilities of this build yourself cnc. ThAnk you
FoxAlien Vasto bit.ly/3kV2L5w
FoxAlien Vasto with 40W laser bit.ly/3PczH7o
FoxAlien low profile vice bit.ly/3sv0Ngr
Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you click on the link and buy something, you will not pay anything extra, but I might receive a small income, which is used to pay for future videos.
A very thorough and enjoyable video!
Great photography and everything you said was clear and informative!
Thanks!
Its a first video in my life Which I watched at a speed of 0.25. You're a crazy blogger!
This is a great documentation of what the machine can do. In the future it would be good if included the information on the particular aluminum and steel alloys you are cutting. There are several differences in common stock and when evaluating a machine that data would be required for an apples to apples comparison.
He actually did. Did you watch the video? Aluminum: 6082 T6 / Brass: cz121 cw614n / Steel: en3b 080a15
@@JulienStoeffler Yeah this CNC is cutting the bright mild steel fairly well. I'm looking at options for milling fine injection molds and it looks like with the right feeds and speeds on shallow cut this could be exactly what I'm after.
@@robertmartin2936 I've started metal working on a hobby CNC router, which is not as good as this one. It is definitely challenging, and what you want to do sounds a bit demanding (I'm not familiar with injection molds, but I imagine it's hard steel and it needs a lot of precision). Not saying you can't do it, but it's going to be time consuming to understand the limitations of the machine, and the impact it has on the milling operation. That may sounds a bit abstract, but for example those spindles are high RPM, so you need small tools, and small tools have more deflection and break easier. There are low RPM spindles, but they're expensive, and then the machine rigidity may be too weak then, because of the high torque. The frame is made of aluminium, which doesn't absorb vibrations, which means the tool, will only last a few hours on hard steel... So I think if you buy such a "cheap" machine (it looks great in its category), you need to manage your expectations, in terms of time it will take to get something done. For me it's also part of the fun, but it can be frustrating sometimes, and in you case it could mean taking a week to make 1 part, and having to start over 3 or 4 times.
Stubbing the tool closer to the end of the collet will produce less chatter. Keep out the minimum amount you’ll need. Very good video 🤙🏻
Super review and very informative generally for any cnc testing.
This is by far the better desktop metal cnc for such price.
Your reviews are really well made.. i learned a lot and really like the surface finish compare. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Very informative review. Looking for a cnc to carry out model engineering in brass and aluminium and I think this is just the ticket. Thanks
really good guide for a beginner to build and design their first own cnc, appreciated!
This is well done dit machine. I wish I saw this before I bought the Croncraft model. This is way more pro laid out and neat
Could you make a video on the 1.5kW spindle ? How it mounted to the Z axis, which VFD you chose, how you did the wiring, but also how you integrate it with the GRBL software. Did you need to upgrade the Z axis linear rails/ball screws or stepper motors ? If upgrading the wm3020 machine, do you expect the Z axis would need upgrading for a 5-6kg spindle and adapter mounting plate ?
@techydiy How did you connect the VFD to the laser port of the controller to manage the spindle ? And how did you integrate it with GRBL ?
For very shallow cuts like you tried on the first steel pockets I would try a fresh HSS end mill instead. Carbide is undoubtedly a better end mill material but it cannot be made as sharp as HSS due to its manufacturing. For shallow cuts and feed rates try a high flute count HSS bit.
It does seem quite complicated, but I suppose you work up to all that knowledge. These seem like outstanding products.
Like anything, a bit of practice.
picked up some really good tips from this thanks
What kind of accuracy/tolerances could you expect out of one of these using aluminum
Excellent video! Very insightful. Thank you for sharing Sir.
very impressive feeds and speeds.
Curious how the steel would behave if you did conventional milling instead of climb milling.
this thing can cut steel?? wow! I have been told everywhere that this kind of (cheap) CNC routers don't work well with ferrous metals. I wonder if it can also cut titanium or tungsten
@@absolute___zero So long as you can adjust the machine to run shallow enough cuts with the right speeds and feeds just about any machine can cut steel, although the cut quality may not always be the greatest.
It's a very slow way to make a pcb.
I was thinking of buying a cheapo cnc to make my pcb's, but then I watched GreatScott's video about this, and it is almost invariably simpler and quicker to etch your own PCB's. Or, there are services which can make them for you for $2 a PCB!
Hence, I've shelved the idea of getting a cnc for this purpose.
Etching certainly gives better results, except for drilling holes and outlines etc. the cnc excels at that. The Cnc allows you to do far more than etch pcbs, like cut face panels, machine custom knobs etc.
wow this guy is good, excellent video.
height mapping - cool!
Very well done thanks
Compression cutter helps reduce chipping with laminate that is 2 sided
I have a feeling that if you cut the spindle speed in half for the steel you would see a vast improvement
As I expected by seeing what the framing looked like: *this will chatter like crazy with steel.* Sure enough, that's what they (effectively) said here in in there steel cutting attempt. He is right that a higher torque spindle would improve this, as the cutter was noticeably slowing even on the shallower ramp angles. A slowing spindle means even higher chipload, so more chatter and cutter breakages.
Using a 1/4 base to a stubby 1/8" end mill would probably be this machine's best bet for trying to cut steel, but you will rightly feel like you are abusing the machine every time you try.
Flood coolant will also help a lot, but it won't make a non-rigid machine rigid. It will make cutting alu so much nicer _and quieter._
(all that is from years of use experience with cnc router at home, comparably built but in a smaller overall build, and with upgrades like flood coolant)
The stock spindle is useless for milling steel, but with the 1.5kW spindle it is a totally different machine (shown towards the end of the video). I regularly cut steel with it, you just have to use high rpm and light cuts. Avoiding any resonance. Also a few sand bags help to dampen the bed. It requires a different approach to using a mill.
Hello again, sorry to keep troubling you. At 19:33 you put macros in on button 3 and 4 to find the edge in the X and Y directions respectively. Do you then use this information on the SW scale to move both X and Y in by half the cutter diameter to find the exact corner? Thanks again for any pointers.
Yes, I moved it manually by the tool radius and then zeroed, but you can build it into a macro or script.
I like this cnc works
Great video
Very good demo video; what comparison do you make of this one with the Masuter Pro? Are the two similar? Thanks
The Vasto is far superior in terms of components, performance and capability. The Masuter pro is considerably cheaper.
I am on the fence with fox alien because it is a belt-driven system, I love all of the features of their CNC's and would place an order today - if it was not belt driven. I currently do not have a CNC nor have much knowledge of cnc's I am looking for a 12x24" with spindle which made the 4040 very desireable - it is between the 4040 and shapeoko 5.
This model is not belt driven, it has ballscrews.
Question on your Feed Rates. I bought the Vasto and found the max feed rates on X and Y axis are set to 1500 mm/min
$110 = 1500.000 (X-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$111 = 1500.000 (Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
Are you sure your published feed rates were achieved?
My machine operates at over 5000mm/min, you have to test and find where it starts missing steps then decrease to about 80%. It is machine dependent, careful alignment helps. Increasing the acceleration too much will cause problems. Also the XL and XXL machines cannot achieve the same speeds.
Thank you for a very informative video of how to set up and use. At about 12:58 you describe how you set the Z zero at 3.20mm bottom. What advantage/difference does this make over setting to 3.20mm top? Thank you
If the spoilboard is level then it guarantees that you will cut all the way though the part and it will minimise damage to the spoilboard.
I really found this video very useful and well put together. Question, did you actually measure the electrical power used by that 40W laser at max power setting?
Nope, it’s a dual 5.5w laser
@@techydiy I am using the 40w gold laser (LaserTree?), works pretty ok. I measured the electrical power at 18w (12V x 1.5A) at 100% power. I really don't know why they call it a 40W laser.. Anyway, I was interested to know the electrical power for that laser you are using in the video. Thanks!
Huge thanks. I've been wondering about many machines available and this video is by far the most useful I've seen about any machine video I've personally happened to see. 10/10 and double 👍👍
Actually checked out the listings, but they're bit confusing as some models mention Makita router? To my understanding you got bundle with spindle motor and laser? Could you possibly give the manufacturer SKU for us curious?
Edit: Apparently it's this SKU: BD-Vasto-40W-Sea ?
There are only two options, with or without the laser. It always comes with a 400w spindle motor and additional mounts for other routers (like the Makita) or vfd spindle motors.
Thank you very much for the review. Is it safe to use a 1.5kw air cooled spinde with flood coolant on the bit ?
That machine is certainly not designed to be used with flood coolant.
Yeah, just going to echo what the others are on about. You do a great job of just, getting to the meat and potatoes. Great job.
Thanks 👍
Hi, great review! But don't you think the x-axis ball screw that is not properly protected and covered cannot be damaged by the accumulation of sawdust and milling waste? Cheers
I use a dust boot. You can add way covers if required.
Thank you for doing this, this cnc seems to possibly be what I have been looking for.
Do you think that if one upgraded to a powerful spindle and braced the bed, that the device could cut a knife profile with a steel thickness of say 3-4 mm, or would that be too ambitious?
Your going to be using hard high carbon steeI for a knife so I don't know if it is practical.
@@techydiy if so this model or the more expensive one
I'd love to see a CNC like this, only with a sturdier lower bearing for the chuck. That I suspect is where much of the chattering is coming from. Does anyone make one like this?
Yes replace the dc spindle with a real trim router or 65mm brushless spindle, as mentioned with the different mounting options
@@garycaruso4883 The issue I have with most 3D routers on the market today is the lack of support at the the spindle chuck end to cope with side-loads. Escalation of expectations means that people attempt to use router spindles that are only supposed to cut plastic, wood etc. to cut aluminium, brass and even steel and end up trashing the spindle's built-in bearings with excessive side-wear. They will usually last long enough for a UA-cam video or two though.
I have ideas of fitting a proper spindle to a low-cost CNC router using taper roller bearings to deal with side-loads and allow adjustment to reduce spindle slop. The actual rotary power to this taper-roller spindle would be supplied off the Z-axis via a flexible cable drive or similar. This would massively reduce the all-up weight on the Z-axis which would no longer have to carry the weight of the spindle motor. There are other advantages to this approach such as being able to mount the spindle axis a lot closer to the Z-axis rails since the 'naked' spindle should be a lot slimmer than a router motor body. This would result in an increase in machining precision since there would be less leverage and deflection when cutting into the side of harder materials such as metals.
So much nicer than the Saintsmart 4030 ProverXL. But at double the price.
everything but linear rails, i don't think it'd be all that hard to modify it, replace the upper rollers on the side supports with a block to mount a linear bearing, it might raise the height a bit, some flt bar under the rail itself. the other axis would have the mod on the bottom to bring it back down, the only problem then is the upper rail. maybe a block with ears milled in to extend the mount... that's the only hard part of modding it. not sure, but i think the z is already linear rails.
The z axis on the Sainsmart Prover xl uses linear rods and a leadscrew.
@@techydiy yah, took a look around, there's a massive ONE video on converting the 4030 to linear rails, it's been done, but... perhaps it's just such a peculiar idea that it's that rare.
@@techydiy clearly better.
Great video!
How does this compare with a sherline mill? Can this be used for milling small aluminum parts? Our production volume is not high, 10-20 parts per month, mostly design and development, we need to mill aluminum and brass sometimes steel
Hello. I was thinking in buying one of this FoxAlien Vasto CNC. Do you think is possible to use a 80mm 2.2KW Spindle in this cnc? I know the supplied clamp/holder is only 65mm which is perfect for 1.5KW round spindle. Would be possible to use a Square 2.2KW Spindle? Do you know what is the distance between holes that held in place spindle clamp, 4 on each side? Thanks.
Yes others have used 2.2kW 80mm spindles. You just have to drill the right mounting holes in the 80mm holder or make up an adapter plate.
The mounting holes are 70mm horizontal spacing, 25mm vertical spacing (75mm total)
Did the bits wear very quickly due to heat and lack of lubrication? I have a large CNC I use for woodworking, but don't think I would be able to do metal work on it without cooling lubrication.
No, the end mills have coatings designed for it and if the feeds and speeds are calculated correctly then the chips should be taking away heat. You can see smoke in some of the steel footage, which is just the oil from the surface of the steel burning off.
@@techydiy I have a 2hp spindle, so I guess I need to give this a shot with the appropriate endmills. What have you found (brand, pn) that worked well?
Carbide DLC for aluminium and Carbide TiAIN for steel. The exact endmills that I used are listed in the first comment.
Wow impresive,can you build 5axis with this equipment btw,i realy enjoy your video,thanks for sharing❤
Wish id got this instead of the ProverXL v2. Ive had so many issues with control boards.
Any chance you can post the settings for the user one button when you used the probe to measure the material height. Or a quick video on how to perform the relative measurements.
G91G21; G38.2Z-30F100; G0Z1; G38.2Z-1F10
With the probe target located on the bottom surface
Run the script
Zero the the z axis
Jog the Z axis upwards
Move the probe target to somewhere on the top surface
Jog the X,Y,Z to a position above the probe target
Run the script again
Read the z axis height
Hi what machine sub £3000 would you recommend for steel and alloys? I know a good spindle is a must. Help appreciated. Thanks.
Great video, but geez how long did it take you to figure out all of the bits and pieces to make all this work?
I have been doing it a while but the video took a very long time to edit.
hey just a quick question: what was the track width and spacing for your pcb cutout?
Do you have a video of wiring the spindle to vfd as it my be new to some of us tring to make and upgrade to a spindle like that?
Not yet but I am going to do that. It is a video in its own right,
How do you find the best feeds and speeds? Just out of experience or do you have a system?
I'm looking for a smaller CNC router that has most or all of the features of the Vasto featured here -- ball-screws, linear rail supports, decent-sized stepper motors or preferably closed-loop synchronous motors etc. but in a smaller package, something in the 3018 form factor if possible. Other good things would be an uprated spindle motor to start with, preferably air-cooled rather than a water-cooled spindle motor with VFD since that's more complexity than I really want to deal with given the limited space I have in my workshop. Is there anything like that in the market?
I've been monitoring the Makera Kickstarter offering, the desktop Carvera with some interest but I'm open to other possible offerings if they're out there, especially at a lower price point.
Self build is probably the best approach.
@@techydiy I'm looking for something, even assembled from a kit-of-parts like the Vasto, that works well out-of-the-box as a router but fits into the 3018-sized desktop workspace. I'd prefer not to design my own machine from individual parts, I'd rather have a kit I can assemble and have confidence it will work well from day one.
The Foxalien Vasto looks like a decent design in that regard, absent the flex in the frame you demonstrated in the video, but it's just bigger than I can cope with in my limited working space.
@@robertsneddon731 hi Robert, please comment if/when You find what you're after. I have exactly the same expectations as yours. from a new cnc router. Thanks
I have a Stepcraft 420, which I mostly use for machining brass and nickel silver. I've never tried steel, as I've not needed to, and I'm reluctant to cut it dry. I have bought ball screws to upgrade my Stepcraft, but have not yet fitted them. Metal cutting machines of a domestic size like these are wonderful - and I love mine - I'm glad to see other machines on the market. The one thing this video didn't cover was the accuracy of the finished parts. Certainly it should be possible to produce some small, delicate and accurate work. Mine does, so I dare say this will/could.
bit.ly/3wBWIJD
I am very curious about carbon fiber... But It's difficult to find information on CNC machining carbon fiber.
It can be cut. Just make sure you have dust extraction and vent the vac output air outside.
DAMN, I HAVE TO GO TO COLLEGE TO OPERATE THIS...😮😢
Is this for sale? This is great
what upgrades did you change in order to work this good? or is it like that straight out of the box?
I installed the 1.5kW spindle and added an air blast. It's all shown in the video.
I like the level angle finder use to tram the spindle holder to the spoil board what brand is it and where do I buy one
Search for "digital angle gauge" on Amazon, ebay etc. It works quite well for getting it roughly right.
Hi first very nice review as others mentioned. Now, I have looked at the controller box @4:11 and I don't see a way to connect a 4th axe to the machine. Do you think it would be possible to add a 4th axe without having to change the controller altogether ?
It would need some hacking and adding / replacing bits. If I ever get the time I am going to convert my machine to run fluidnc.
I'm not able to make those adjustments that you did on your setting on my brand new vasto machine I bought, and can a masuter pro under the same program the vasto?
Nice video!
What are the dimensional tolerances like on this?
merci
37:39
The vertical lines that appear are because vibration?
Because its not rigid enough?
Or whats the cause of lines? Too fast cutting?
Chatter, it’s finding some resonance. I didn’t spend much time trying to figure out brass settings.
love this machine! What do users respond to noise level of unit. I know spindle vrs router produce less noise, are there other steps to make unit quieter?
A vfd spindle is much less noisy than a router. Most people worried about noise build a sealed cabinet to reduce noise and dust.
nossa que vídeo bem produzido
Hi Mr Tech.
Do you know what is the diference between the vasto and the xe pro? Which one is better or more rigid?
Thank you
Vasto is the better machine.
Where do you get the air nozzle? And what air compressor you are using? Thanks
ebay. Large shop compressor.
Do you think this machine or the masueter or the fox alien wood mads 3020 would be better for metals
Vasto, wm3020 in that order
You should do longmill
One can see at the end of the cuts on the steel bars the amount of deflection of the tool. Shows this CNC does not have the rigidity for steel.
So what is the cost of this machine at present pls?
Great machine! Does anyone know how long it actually took to ship to the UK, and any damage.
I'm in the UK and I received my Vasto XL 3 weeks ago. Seems that Foxalien shipped it from local stock (given the price and the 7 days delivery)
@@tekgrrl Cheers and Merry Christmas!
I would prefer both the spindle and laser to be mounted so i can use either as needed.
Should be easy enough.
hi please shed some light on a project i want to make, i want to have the back of my fight tank has infinity mirror, i was thinking maybe i can use the back of the tank as one mirror then add another mirror in front with leds in between with a frame holding the mirror into the back of the tank, my questions are do i use one way mirror on the back of the tank? if so do i need the reflective part looking away from front of the tank or looking in? and does it need to be installed from outside? if so which film do you recomnd, also as for the mirror part do i need the second part be glass with mirror film on it or can a mirror film be used say on wood or wall?
What is a fight tank?
@@techydiy Possibly he means FISH tank?!!
@@cyclic2696 Think he means 'light tank' or, in other words the item that techdiymade
Hi Techy, So I have a Vasto and I also purchased a water cooled 1.5 kw spindle but I can't seem to figure out how to turn the motor on with the Vasto. Is it done with the control box set to laser mode? Did I miss the instructions on how to do it somewhere in the manuals? Any help here or some guidance n where to look would be greatly appreciated :)
Depending on your model of vfd, it will have a control input that can be used to turn the spindle on or off.
You could use a relay powered by the Vasto spindle motor leads and connect the relay switch terminals to the vfd.
I will make a video about how to control speed etc. properly from the Vasto but it will take a while.
@@techydiy I get what your saying. I do have some electrical experience but this is the first new CNC I have ever owned and so I was a little hesitant to play around with it. I'll do some simple metering and look into a relay. A video to control speed would be great.
Is there any information on the torque specifications of the stepper motors or is there any part number label on the motors. I noticed they are dual spindle types.
Also curious to find out the size of the gap between the two x-axis linear rails @41:48. I am trying to figure out how sturdy the z-axis carraige might be on this model.
Nothing on the steppers and approximately 105mm ( just over 4" ) centre to centre
@@techydiy Thank you. I missed your reply.
I’m curious… is the controller software open for XYZ axes measurements (setting it only by manual) or are those limits immutable in the software?
It seems as though a 4040-XE with a Makita upgrade to spindle might allow you to machine different build frame parts from stainless for a build bed upgrade at half the cost
Grbl is configurable, same on both machines. The 4040xe is ok for wood, not much else.
@@techydiy interesting… so someone might take a stock Vasto and, conceivably, swap linear rails, extruded aluminum, and add some more cable track etc to mod it for an expanded build area?
Yep or just buy one of the two bigger versions
What brand of spindle did you switch too? The water cooled one.
Vevor spindle with a Huanyang VFD that I already had.
This machine ticks all the boxes in terms of build spec, can you tell me if the laser could be upgraded to one of new 40w output units from X Tool or Atomstack.
Should be ok as long as the laser has its own power supply.