I’ve watched several videos on the JessEm dowel jig and got next to nothing out of them. Your video/tutorial was excellent! So calm and informative. I kept thinking I didn’t want the JessEm because of all the clamping where other ones were self centering. I am convinced this is the one that I’m going to get. Thanks you. Excellent excellent video!!
Thank you so much. I'm glad the video was helpful. If you do buy this jig, please consider using the link in the description. It really helps to support the channel. Thanks again.
Hi Matt, I really appreciated the Jessem stainless steel metric jig video and purchased a jig and have now received it. I was intrigued with the follow up video where someone criticized the strength of the s/s jig compared to the cast aluminium jig. OMG the s/s jig is of thick s/s and even if abused would not go out of shape and th3 fine adjustment is brilliant. Thanks!
Thank you so much for supporting the channel. Honestly, it's not quite as rigid as the aluminum jig but it is very strong. Like you said, one would have to bend/break it on purpose. I haven't had any issues using it. Thanks again for watching and for your support.
i've used a dowelmax for years, now i'm building a new router table with jessem stuff. the quality is excellent and they are all made here in canada. dowelmax used to be made in canada, not anymore. i visited the jessem factory in new brunswick canada in august and was sold on their router table stuff. amazing people and facility
A factory tour would be awesome. I recently got a new router lift for my table. I really wanted the JessEm but they don't make one that fit my cutout. I had to go with Grizzly. It's very smooth and precise so I'm happy. But yeah, love all my JessEm tools.
I was watching a video with a bunch of marking and started to reconsider the jig… However you have confirmed the effective procedure and I will proceed with my purchase. On behalf of Jessem and all Canadians we thank you for your service.
I’ve been on the fence about this jig. After watching your demonstration, I’m sold! Your tutorial is the simplest yet most understandable and easiest to follow. Great job and thank you. Btw, JessEm should sponsor you 👊🏽
I don't have a doweling jig yet and I'm thinking about getting one sometimes soon. This video really convinced me to go with the Jessem as now I can see how this jig is very well engineered especially if used correctly. Ty sir
Great video, I love the instruction based upon the physical dimensions of the jig and the lumber rather than a lecture on measuring and marking to match.
Matt, thank you for this instructional video. Much easier to understand than the other videos out there. JessEm needs to reach out to you for their instructional videos.
Excellent instruction clearly demonstrated, Matt. Good pronunciation too, appreciated by an oldster whose ears are showing their age. Please allow me to add for people outside of the US and Canada that JessEm makes a metric version of the dowelling jig too, with guide mounts and bushings available for 6, 8, 10 and 12mm dowels, with a 50mm setback corresponding to the English standard 2 inches.
Thanks for showing the vertical T-joint setup. Lots of videos showing the JessEm jig doing other types of joints but this is the only one that I found with what I wanted to see. I'm surprised the JessEm marketing videos didn't include it. You got a subscribe and thumbs up on this video from me.
I usually build face frames one piece at a time. But I know many people like to assemble the frame then install it on the cabinet. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
it's very easy. for something like the end of a face frame board that is kind of narrow to line up the edge of the jig against, typically I put the alignment pin in the leftmost or rightmost hole and register that pin against a side. then same procedure on the cross member but with the alignment pin in the opposite side hole on the jig so the show faces both go against the fence of the jig
Excellent tutorial. I've got this jig and after watching and learning from you realize I've been doing way to much marking and measuring. Thanks for showing me a better way!
Outstanding demo! Watched this just as JessEm's stainless steel dowel jig set was on sale (early Black Friday). Clearly shows how to use the jig in most applications. Would have liked to see how to build a face frame using the jig. Maybe a future video? Thanks a bunch and happy TG!
Thank you. I just ordered the SS Season Professional Kit. I will be doing a video on it when it arrives in a few weeks. Stay tuned for that, and thanks for watching.
Sorry, i accidently hit send before i was done typing my comment. I was on the fence about whether to get the JessEm doweling jig or the DowelMax. After watching this video, i ordered the JessEm kit. Can you please tell me which dowels work best with this jig? I am also curious if you have remmendations about what dowel lengths work best with the different diameter dowels. Thanks again for the great content. I am just starting to get into woodworking, and i think your videos are really informative.
Thanks Matt. I’m ready to use this jig for the first time. Your video gave me the confidence to know that I’m using it correctly. The instructions were ok, but your video was the magic. Thank you!
Thanks Matt for showing how easy to use (& accurate this jig is). I particularly appreciate your emphasis on not needing to measure. Using this jig efficiently can make a noticeable difference in production time, without sacrificing accuracy. Big thumbs up from a new subscriber.
Very Cool Vid. I went to using smaller Bamboo dowels, they're just as strong as larger pine dowels only smaller diameter. Bamboo is a very hard wood...or (actually) grass. Using several in line is hard to break the laminated wood. And that way I dont drill out too much wood near the doweling...leaving more original wood around the dowel holes. This jig makes it very easy to do. Just different technique that's all folks.
Thanks for sharing this. I was not aware of bamboo dowels. The dowels I use are maple, so they're pretty tough. But I will definitely look into bamboo dowels. Thanks again.
Thanks Matt! I just ordered one of these babies that I will be using to make a very minimal, album cabinet for my collection of LPs. It has to be sturdy because when you have a bunch of LPs plus a stereo on the top shelf, it has to be pretty strong. I can picture how I will do the shelving. I will probably cut a MDF template for the top shelves so that the shelves fit perfectly when used on each side. Excellent video, thanks!
If I had discovered the JessEm dowel jig earlier, I might not have bought the Domino; literally every other dowel jig I found and tried sucked, or was too purposefully designed only for edges. This is so sweet.
This is absolutely without a doubt a great instructional video. I just got my Jessum jig and needed to learn how to use it. Thanks for making this video! 👏🎬
I've been watching a lot videos of the new Jessem stainless steel dowelling jig and they show that you can make a lot of different joints (mostly edge joints actually) but no butt joints (or T joints), since this new jig is thinner than the old Jessem version (and pretty much from the other brands of dowelling jigs in the market) I would love to see how this new jig can make t-joints accurately .
Hey Matt, or use the stainless jig to build a couple table tops a month. The only thing I would I have is you should be referencing off the top of the boards so it forces any inconsistencies and thickness however, minor to the bottom. leaves you with a little bit less work to do.
I think that's done for strength and rigidity, but yeah, I can see that getting in the way. I usually don't clamp the jig, so it hasn't been an issue for me. Thanks for watching.
Well done Matt. I have a question. On the last example, you put the piece at 2 in and 1/2 from the edge. I assume you picked 1/2" longer than the jig so it wouldn't touch the reference piece. That way you are sure that the jig is tight on the edge of the piece where the holes will be made. Is that correct?
Exactly. It's not an exact measurement. You want it far enough away so the jig is tight to the edge. But close enough so the alignment slot can reference with the dowels.
Thanks for the video. I unfortunately watched it AFTER doing a bunch of dowels for some drawers by the register and clamp method. I was ready to throw the jig and clamp through the window by the time I was done. Got so focused on things that I missed simply elevating the stainless steel jig to transfer the registration. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and design, but I've made a design for a "High Chair" that snaps into the end holes of the jig and elevates the jig by 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4. I've done the 1/4" jig and will do the 3/8 soon. I was planning to eventually post the files on maker world, if I hear any interest, I'll expedite that. I used the first version to make another drawer and the no measure process is much faster
@ I put my first models up on maker world, you should be able to find it if you search jessem high chair. I’m tweaking a model that can be used when the entire plate is on the first work piece
Great job showing off how easy the jessem jig is to use. Like I said, I have a dowelmax and love it, but the more content I see on the jessem, the more impressed I am by it. I can see myself ending up with a jessem jig if they throw it on sale black friday... edit: I forgot to ask, have you had any issues with things lining up with just holding the jig in place? It looks like it has a matte coating, which I know is more slip resistant.
Thanks for the comment. I haven't had any problems with alignment. I do clamp the material, as you saw in the video. But as for the jig, just hold everything tight and drill away.
Thinner material in width is where you may want to clamp it where there is not much material against the jig fence and holding it can get awkward. Also clamp it if you are new to the jig to get a feel for it. For the most part you are going to use the center slot for alignment and the jig will stay pretty stable. Keep in mind the jig can lift if you drill too fast or with too much torque. Play around with it a bit first and see what works best for you. It is an amazing jig.
I'm in the market for a doweling jig. I have watched several videos on the Jessem 8350 and the Dowelmax jig. Both appear to be high quality, highly rated and very accurate doweling jigs. However, based on your excellent videos (I am now a subscriber), I am leaning towards purchasing the Jessem since it seems like there is less measuring, less clamping, and no spacers needed. You also stated that Jessem is a better value and is made in Canada (whereas I learned that the Dowelmax is made in China). However, Jessem recently introduced a stainless steel doweling jig with a 45 degree accessory and I was wondering if you have seen that jig. It adjusts in increments of 1/16 inch and has a centering mark on the drill block to aid with centering on wood. Seems like the new stainless steel model may be the way to go over the 8350 model? Am I missing anything Matt before I place my order?
Funny you should mention that. I just took delivery of the new SS jig and I have the 45° attachment. So far, I've only had a chance to look at it. I will be using it and filming a video on it next week. Video should be posted the week after. First impressions are that it's very high quality, like all JessEm products. Fit and finish are great. My initial impression is it will be a winner over the original jig, but as of now, that's just a guess. One thing to note is that the SS jig does not come with the 45° piece or bits/stop collars. They must be purchased separately. Sorry that's all the info I have at the moment, but stay tuned for the video.
I bought this and I use it absolutely the best I can and boards are almost always out by 1mm, especially when doing 90 degree joints. I am so dissapointed, you would think it would be easy but it is never very precise. And I am even double checking and triple checking that everything is flush and square, and I am referencing the proper side, and i clamp everything to make sure nothing moves.
That's strange. My first thought was that you are getting your reference sides reversed. But you say you're checking that. When I have faces that aren't flush, 99% of the time I got my reference faces messed up. I just get them right, re-drill, and its fine. It sounds like you're doing everything correct. I would have to see your setup to give any real advice. Sorry I can't help you further. Maybe something is up with the jig and JessEm can help. It should be very precise.
Great video. Thanks Matt! Two questions: 1) In the last example you said to measure down about 2.5" and then it ended up exactly flush. Is that because your board was exactly 1" thick so you added half of that 1" (.5") to the 2" offset to make that work? 2) Would these same joints work the same way with the new SS version of this tool?
That 2ish inch measurement isn't precise. The top piece just needs to be far enough away so it's not in the way of your jig so the fence is tight to the top edge. But close enough so the slot in your jig can reference the dowel. That measurement can change based on thickness of material and the length of dowels you use. Hope that makes sense. Yes, the SS jig will work the same. But it's a lot thinner. So, for some of the joints, you might need to add a spacer, 1/4" should be enough, under it so the slot can reference the dowels and not slide under them. Also, keep in mind, the center line measurement on the original jig is 2", while it's 1 3/4" on the SS jig. These measurements are printed on the jigs. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Curious to know. Instead of buying dowel jigs, why not buy a palm router (which probably costs the same as one of these jigs or a good drill) which is great at mortising, and just use the good old mortise and tenon joinery?
Excellent video. Thank you for the clear explanation. Let’s say you already had holes pre-drilled for dowels on a larger board and wanted to use the jig to transfer those dowel locations onto the edge of an adjacent board, to create a butt joint (essentially the opposite of what you demonstrated). Do you know if that is possible?
It's possible, but getting the boards to align perfectly would be a challenge. I would plug the existing holes with dowels, cut them flush, and then just make new holes in both pieces.
The only thing this jig struggles with that the Dowelmax can do is miters. But like you said, to get a Dowelmax with 3 guide sizes is quite expensive. Add on the miter system and the price just goes up. JessEm now has a stainless steel jig that has a miter attachment. Might be worth a look.
The dowelmax actually works the same way. There is a side with a check mark. You use that to always reference off of and you almost never have to measure. Measuring is for machine work. Woodworking has taught me to just use references and reality to be more precise.
Very informative. Thank you. I bought the JessEm because the kit was such a great value-$199 on Amazon last year for the 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. Once you get used to its way, it’s fairly quick.
So you want to attach a skirt board to an angled table leg? Usually, when building this style of table, the top of the leg is left square, and the taper starts a few inches below the skirt board. But if you wanted the leg to taper the whole length, the skirt board would need to be cut to length at a matching angle.(Sorry, just making sure I understand what you're doing.) My first thought is to make everything square, drill your dowel holes a little deeper than normal, then cut your angles and tapers. I'm going to make a video demonstrating different/challenging dowel joints. I'll add this one to the list.
Absolutely loved the video. I have one myself and it is my go to jig for about everything. I really liked how you brought up the point of reference faces. Paying attention to reference faces is a must. This way you can direct error in wood thicknes towards a direction it does not matter or less noticeable. Like the bottom side of a panel or the inside of a frame. I would love to see YOU make more videos and uses for the jig or a complete projects done with the jig. Maybe some training videos. You explain things extremely well and you are detailed but not overly complex. Keep up the good work.
How do you dowel a table leg cut on a 10 degree angle to the table apron that is cut at 90 degrees? How do you line up the two sets of holes so that align correctly?
That would just take some careful measuring and layout. I'm making a video of different dowel joints. I'll add this one to the list. BTW- This is probably why most of the time, there is a square section of leg at the top before the taper starts. Easier to join 2 square pieces.
2" exactly would work but a little over 2" just provides a bit of space. That way, the jig can reference the dowel and still fully seat against the fence.
@MattMadeIt123 wouldn't that lower the place where the shelf fits without being flush with the top? I am not sure I understand how in yours it still sits flush because in the previous assembly you had told it's 2 inches from the top of the jig to the center of the dowel. If i keep it 2.5 doesn't it lower the location of the hole?
I couldn't agree more with comments that refer to this video as being incredibly helpful, detailed etc. This video helped me soooo much. Thanks! Any chance of you making a video that can show us how to make dowels on a 45 degree?
The hole and maybe the endgrain of the dowel creates a place for moisture and fungus to form. I've done it many times and rots every time. I've always used Titbond III glue. Maybe if you used an epoxy you might have better success.
That hasn't been my experience. I have pieces with dowel joinery that are over 10 years old and are still as solid as the day they were built. I once saw a 100 year old workbench assembled with dowels and mortise and tenons. It was still in use. Dowels aren't much different than dominos or other loose tenon joints. They seem to hold up just fine. I'm not sure why you're having problems with them, but so far, I've seen nothing to cause me any concern.
You missed the two awesome, inexpensive jigs out of china the UA-cam channel Hooked on Wood (Episodes 27, 42, and 49) tested and recommends. one is a long bar (40 cm?) of machined aluminum for cabinets and the other similar to this Jessem. They do different things. There is a third he recommends for furniture.
Excellent video Matt. Nothing like minimizing the amount of measuring required for a project. I'm all for that.
Absolutely!
I’ve watched several videos on the JessEm dowel jig and got next to nothing out of them. Your video/tutorial was excellent! So calm and informative. I kept thinking I didn’t want the JessEm because of all the clamping where other ones were self centering. I am convinced this is the one that I’m going to get. Thanks you. Excellent excellent video!!
Thank you so much. I'm glad the video was helpful. If you do buy this jig, please consider using the link in the description. It really helps to support the channel. Thanks again.
Hi Matt, I really appreciated the Jessem stainless steel metric jig video and purchased a jig and have now received it. I was intrigued with the follow up video where someone criticized the strength of the s/s jig compared to the cast aluminium jig. OMG the s/s jig is of thick s/s and even if abused would not go out of shape and th3 fine adjustment is brilliant. Thanks!
Thank you so much for supporting the channel.
Honestly, it's not quite as rigid as the aluminum jig but it is very strong. Like you said, one would have to bend/break it on purpose. I haven't had any issues using it. Thanks again for watching and for your support.
i've used a dowelmax for years, now i'm building a new router table with jessem stuff. the quality is excellent and they are all made here in canada. dowelmax used to be made in canada, not anymore.
i visited the jessem factory in new brunswick canada in august and was sold on their router table stuff. amazing people and facility
A factory tour would be awesome. I recently got a new router lift for my table. I really wanted the JessEm but they don't make one that fit my cutout. I had to go with Grizzly. It's very smooth and precise so I'm happy. But yeah, love all my JessEm tools.
I purchased jessem because it is made in Canada.
@@gund89123 me too!, i live in canada so that was a big plus
Them Jessem tools are beatiful and very well made. Canadians make some excellent tools
Agreed. Thanks for watching.
I was watching a video with a bunch of marking and started to reconsider the jig… However you have confirmed the effective procedure and I will proceed with my purchase. On behalf of Jessem and all Canadians we thank you for your service.
I'm glad the video was helpful to you. You and all of Canada are very welcome.
I’ve been on the fence about this jig. After watching your demonstration, I’m sold! Your tutorial is the simplest yet most understandable and easiest to follow. Great job and thank you. Btw, JessEm should sponsor you 👊🏽
Glad the video was helpful. And I agree. What's up JessEm?! Lets make it happen!
I don't have a doweling jig yet and I'm thinking about getting one sometimes soon. This video really convinced me to go with the Jessem as now I can see how this jig is very well engineered especially if used correctly. Ty sir
Glad I could help you out, I hope it serves you well!
I have been using this jig for few years, never thought of using this way, thank you.
I'm glad you found a new way to use it. I think JessEm makes a great product, but instructions on use are lacking. That's why I'm making these videos.
Great video, I love the instruction based upon the physical dimensions of the jig and the lumber rather than a lecture on measuring and marking to match.
Thank you. I think that's what makes JessEm jigs so great. Quick and easy if you use it as intended.
Matt, thank you for this instructional video. Much easier to understand than the other videos out there. JessEm needs to reach out to you for their instructional videos.
Glad it was helpful! I appreciate your comment very much.
Thanks so much. You did an excellent job of explaining the process simply and clearly.
You're welcome! I'm glad it was easy to follow.
Thanks!
You're welcome! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thank you for your support. I really appreciate it.
I have had the jig for a bit but was not using it properly. Thank you very much for this great video!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent instruction clearly demonstrated, Matt. Good pronunciation too, appreciated by an oldster whose ears are showing their age. Please allow me to add for people outside of the US and Canada that JessEm makes a metric version of the dowelling jig too, with guide mounts and bushings available for 6, 8, 10 and 12mm dowels, with a 50mm setback corresponding to the English standard 2 inches.
Yes! There is a JessEm jig for everyone. Thanks.
JessEm should hire you. Thank you
I appreciate that. Thanks.
Nice! The alignment pin/slot makes 100% of the difference with literally EVERY other doweling jig.
Agreed. Makes drilling the holes really fast and accurate.
@@MattMadeIt123 Can't lie; I"m totally ordering one.
excellent Matt, first time I have understood doweling jigs
Glad you found it helpful. Check out my latest videos demonstrating different joints using three different JessEm jig setups. Thanks for watching.
Very well explained. I bought the jig on sale a while back and only used it once. This was a great refresher. Thanks for posting.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for showing the vertical T-joint setup. Lots of videos showing the JessEm jig doing other types of joints but this is the only one that I found with what I wanted to see. I'm surprised the JessEm marketing videos didn't include it. You got a subscribe and thumbs up on this video from me.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful.
Pretty excellent presentation! Nobody can possibly be left wanting for more! ✨
Thank you.
Would like to see you do a face frame.
Your demo is by far the most effective and simplest use of the jig I’ve seen.
I usually build face frames one piece at a time. But I know many people like to assemble the frame then install it on the cabinet. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
it's very easy. for something like the end of a face frame board that is kind of narrow to line up the edge of the jig against, typically I put the alignment pin in the leftmost or rightmost hole and register that pin against a side. then same procedure on the cross member but with the alignment pin in the opposite side hole on the jig so the show faces both go against the fence of the jig
That jig is genius!! Great tutorial on a great tool.
Glad you liked it!
Very very very useful video. I bought this jig and have been very confused by its proper use. Thank you for taking the time to make and post.
I'm so glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for watching.
Absolutely the best video i have seen on alignment of the jig to get perfect results!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Excellent tutorial. I've got this jig and after watching and learning from you realize I've been doing way to much marking and measuring. Thanks for showing me a better way!
You're welcome. Glad the video was helpful.
Best video on UA-cam about this jig!
Thank you very much. Glad you liked it.
I just ordered this Jesse Dowel Jig. Thank you for this video!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Matt, this video saved me so much time with learning my new Jessum jig. Thanks for helping!
I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching.
I bought a jessem and find it excellent, my go to jig for joinery.
Great to hear!
Outstanding demo! Watched this just as JessEm's stainless steel dowel jig set was on sale (early Black Friday). Clearly shows how to use the jig in most applications. Would have liked to see how to build a face frame using the jig. Maybe a future video? Thanks a bunch and happy TG!
Thank you. I just ordered the SS Season Professional Kit. I will be doing a video on it when it arrives in a few weeks. Stay tuned for that, and thanks for watching.
Sorry, i accidently hit send before i was done typing my comment. I was on the fence about whether to get the JessEm doweling jig or the DowelMax. After watching this video, i ordered the JessEm kit.
Can you please tell me which dowels work best with this jig?
I am also curious if you have remmendations about what dowel lengths work best with the different diameter dowels.
Thanks again for the great content. I am just starting to get into woodworking, and i think your videos are really informative.
Thanks Matt. I’m ready to use this jig for the first time. Your video gave me the confidence to know that I’m using it correctly. The instructions were ok, but your video was the magic. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Nice work Mike. I have this Jig and it's great to see someone like yourself provide easy to understand, practical examples using it. Thank you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Best JessEm jig video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching.
thank you very very helpful
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks Matt for showing how easy to use (& accurate this jig is). I particularly appreciate your emphasis on not needing to measure. Using this jig efficiently can make a noticeable difference in production time, without sacrificing accuracy. Big thumbs up from a new subscriber.
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Very Cool Vid.
I went to using smaller Bamboo dowels, they're just as strong as larger pine dowels only smaller diameter. Bamboo is a very hard wood...or (actually) grass. Using several in line is hard to break the laminated wood.
And that way I dont drill out too much wood near the doweling...leaving more original wood around the dowel holes. This jig makes it very easy to do.
Just different technique that's all folks.
Thanks for sharing this. I was not aware of bamboo dowels. The dowels I use are maple, so they're pretty tough. But I will definitely look into bamboo dowels. Thanks again.
Thanks Matt! I just ordered one of these babies that I will be using to make a very minimal, album cabinet for my collection of LPs. It has to be sturdy because when you have a bunch of LPs plus a stereo on the top shelf, it has to be pretty strong. I can picture how I will do the shelving. I will probably cut a MDF template for the top shelves so that the shelves fit perfectly when used on each side. Excellent video, thanks!
Sounds like a cool project. I'm sure the jig will work great for you. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for informative video. I was on the fence about whether to buy the Jessem
Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching.
If I had discovered the JessEm dowel jig earlier, I might not have bought the Domino; literally every other dowel jig I found and tried sucked, or was too purposefully designed only for edges. This is so sweet.
I agree. The Domino has its place, but this jig is much more affordable and does pretty much the same thing. Just in a little different way.
Thank you for doing this video! It was very informative and useful.
You are so welcome!
This is absolutely without a doubt a great instructional video. I just got my Jessum jig and needed to learn how to use it. Thanks for making this video! 👏🎬
Glad it was helpful!
I've been watching a lot videos of the new Jessem stainless steel dowelling jig and they show that you can make a lot of different joints (mostly edge joints actually) but no butt joints (or T joints), since this new jig is thinner than the old Jessem version (and pretty much from the other brands of dowelling jigs in the market) I would love to see how this new jig can make t-joints accurately .
That's probably the most asked question I get about the SS jig. And for good reason. I will address this joint in an upcoming video. Stay tuned.
Hey Matt, or use the stainless jig to build a couple table tops a month. The only thing I would I have is you should be referencing off the top of the boards so it forces any inconsistencies and thickness however, minor to the bottom. leaves you with a little bit less work to do.
Just ordered the SS kit. Should be here in a couple weeks. I'll do a video on it and try your suggestion. Thanks.
Excellent informative video! It would be nice to see how it might be used to make a mitered edge joint.
A buddy of mine was asking about another type of joint also. Think I'll have to make another video demonstrating some other joints.
Great video! I like the jig, I just wish the back side of the fence wasn't curved. Makes clamping a pain!
I think that's done for strength and rigidity, but yeah, I can see that getting in the way. I usually don't clamp the jig, so it hasn't been an issue for me. Thanks for watching.
Great tips made look super easy very informative
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts.
Awesome video Matt! Wish I had seen it 5 years ago when I first got my jig
I've received many comments/emails saying the same thing. JessEm really should provide better instructions/instructional videos.
Great demo! Thanks
You're welcome.
Very well explained, thank You!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Very clearly explained .
THANKS! I wondered what that grove in the middle of the jig was for!
Glad I could help!
First time seeing a video from you, very well done and explained!. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Well done Matt. I have a question. On the last example, you put the piece at 2 in and 1/2 from the edge. I assume you picked 1/2" longer than the jig so it wouldn't touch the reference piece. That way you are sure that the jig is tight on the edge of the piece where the holes will be made. Is that correct?
Exactly. It's not an exact measurement. You want it far enough away so the jig is tight to the edge. But close enough so the alignment slot can reference with the dowels.
How does the jig work on 45° mitered ends? Thank you for your tutorial. .I am needing to build a bathroom vanity.
It's great. I've built several picture frames and cabinet face frames this way.
Thanks for the video. I unfortunately watched it AFTER doing a bunch of dowels for some drawers by the register and clamp method. I was ready to throw the jig and clamp through the window by the time I was done. Got so focused on things that I missed simply elevating the stainless steel jig to transfer the registration.
I'm fairly new to 3D printing and design, but I've made a design for a "High Chair" that snaps into the end holes of the jig and elevates the jig by 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4. I've done the 1/4" jig and will do the 3/8 soon. I was planning to eventually post the files on maker world, if I hear any interest, I'll expedite that. I used the first version to make another drawer and the no measure process is much faster
That 3D printed jig sounds like a great idea. I'd be interested to print some myself and give them a try.
@ I put my first models up on maker world, you should be able to find it if you search jessem high chair.
I’m tweaking a model that can be used when the entire plate is on the first work piece
Great job showing off how easy the jessem jig is to use. Like I said, I have a dowelmax and love it, but the more content I see on the jessem, the more impressed I am by it. I can see myself ending up with a jessem jig if they throw it on sale black friday...
edit: I forgot to ask, have you had any issues with things lining up with just holding the jig in place? It looks like it has a matte coating, which I know is more slip resistant.
Thanks for the comment. I haven't had any problems with alignment. I do clamp the material, as you saw in the video. But as for the jig, just hold everything tight and drill away.
Thinner material in width is where you may want to clamp it where there is not much material against the jig fence and holding it can get awkward. Also clamp it if you are new to the jig to get a feel for it. For the most part you are going to use the center slot for alignment and the jig will stay pretty stable. Keep in mind the jig can lift if you drill too fast or with too much torque. Play around with it a bit first and see what works best for you. It is an amazing jig.
Wasn't sure if this was what I wanted but watching this its exactly what Iwas looking for thanks for the video was done great 👍
Thank you. Glad you liked it!
I'm in the market for a doweling jig. I have watched several videos on the Jessem 8350 and the Dowelmax jig. Both appear to be high quality, highly rated and very accurate doweling jigs. However, based on your excellent videos (I am now a subscriber), I am leaning towards purchasing the Jessem since it seems like there is less measuring, less clamping, and no spacers needed. You also stated that Jessem is a better value and is made in Canada (whereas I learned that the Dowelmax is made in China). However, Jessem recently introduced a stainless steel doweling jig with a 45 degree accessory and I was wondering if you have seen that jig. It adjusts in increments of 1/16 inch and has a centering mark on the drill block to aid with centering on wood. Seems like the new stainless steel model may be the way to go over the 8350 model? Am I missing anything Matt before I place my order?
Funny you should mention that. I just took delivery of the new SS jig and I have the 45° attachment. So far, I've only had a chance to look at it. I will be using it and filming a video on it next week. Video should be posted the week after.
First impressions are that it's very high quality, like all JessEm products. Fit and finish are great. My initial impression is it will be a winner over the original jig, but as of now, that's just a guess. One thing to note is that the SS jig does not come with the 45° piece or bits/stop collars. They must be purchased separately.
Sorry that's all the info I have at the moment, but stay tuned for the video.
Thanks Matt for the prompt reply. I really look forward to seeing your SS jig video demo/review!
Excellent sir, very useful video for new commers
Thank you!
I bought this and I use it absolutely the best I can and boards are almost always out by 1mm, especially when doing 90 degree joints. I am so dissapointed, you would think it would be easy but it is never very precise. And I am even double checking and triple checking that everything is flush and square, and I am referencing the proper side, and i clamp everything to make sure nothing moves.
That's strange. My first thought was that you are getting your reference sides reversed. But you say you're checking that. When I have faces that aren't flush, 99% of the time I got my reference faces messed up. I just get them right, re-drill, and its fine. It sounds like you're doing everything correct. I would have to see your setup to give any real advice. Sorry I can't help you further. Maybe something is up with the jig and JessEm can help. It should be very precise.
Very effective presentation. Thanks for sharing this-- huge time saver.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks Matt! Two questions: 1) In the last example you said to measure down about 2.5" and then it ended up exactly flush. Is that because your board was exactly 1" thick so you added half of that 1" (.5") to the 2" offset to make that work? 2) Would these same joints work the same way with the new SS version of this tool?
That 2ish inch measurement isn't precise. The top piece just needs to be far enough away so it's not in the way of your jig so the fence is tight to the top edge. But close enough so the slot in your jig can reference the dowel. That measurement can change based on thickness of material and the length of dowels you use. Hope that makes sense.
Yes, the SS jig will work the same. But it's a lot thinner. So, for some of the joints, you might need to add a spacer, 1/4" should be enough, under it so the slot can reference the dowels and not slide under them. Also, keep in mind, the center line measurement on the original jig is 2", while it's 1 3/4" on the SS jig. These measurements are printed on the jigs. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Excellent instructions, thank you for sharing...
You are welcome!
Curious to know. Instead of buying dowel jigs, why not buy a palm router (which probably costs the same as one of these jigs or a good drill) which is great at mortising, and just use the good old mortise and tenon joinery?
Two ways to accomplish the same thing. I find this jig fast, easy, accurate, and strong, so it's what I use.
Outstanding video tutorial! Thanks Matt!
Glad you liked it!
Excellent video. Thank you for the clear explanation.
Let’s say you already had holes pre-drilled for dowels on a larger board and wanted to use the jig to transfer those dowel locations onto the edge of an adjacent board, to create a butt joint (essentially the opposite of what you demonstrated). Do you know if that is possible?
It's possible, but getting the boards to align perfectly would be a challenge. I would plug the existing holes with dowels, cut them flush, and then just make new holes in both pieces.
Thanks a lot, much appreciated
The only thing I missed is how you put the example "shelf" into the jig. Thanks for showing how you don't have to measure!
For the shelf, just drill holes the same as you would for a panel glue up. Depending on your project, their placement may or may not matter.
Great little video.
Thank you very much!
A nice 2" square block of wood to use to mark the offset would be easy to make.
Yup. If you're repeating the same operation a lot, a simple jig is your friend.
Thanks for the video. The JessEm looks to be easier to use than the Dowlmax and since you get all three sizes in a kit it's cheaper.
The only thing this jig struggles with that the Dowelmax can do is miters. But like you said, to get a Dowelmax with 3 guide sizes is quite expensive. Add on the miter system and the price just goes up. JessEm now has a stainless steel jig that has a miter attachment. Might be worth a look.
Thanks for the info, I just ordered the stainless kit.@@MattMadeIt123
The dowelmax actually works the same way. There is a side with a check mark. You use that to always reference off of and you almost never have to measure. Measuring is for machine work. Woodworking has taught me to just use references and reality to be more precise.
Very informative. Thank you. I bought the JessEm because the kit was such a great value-$199 on Amazon last year for the 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. Once you get used to its way, it’s fairly quick.
Is there any way to use the Jessem Jig to dowel a table leg cut at an an angle to a horizontal board.
So you want to attach a skirt board to an angled table leg? Usually, when building this style of table, the top of the leg is left square, and the taper starts a few inches below the skirt board. But if you wanted the leg to taper the whole length, the skirt board would need to be cut to length at a matching angle.(Sorry, just making sure I understand what you're doing.) My first thought is to make everything square, drill your dowel holes a little deeper than normal, then cut your angles and tapers. I'm going to make a video demonstrating different/challenging dowel joints. I'll add this one to the list.
So drill the dowel holes first, then cut the angle. I’m going to try this technique. Thank you!
Thanks…why didn’t I think of that.
Absolutely loved the video. I have one myself and it is my go to jig for about everything. I really liked how you brought up the point of reference faces. Paying attention to reference faces is a must. This way you can direct error in wood thicknes towards a direction it does not matter or less noticeable. Like the bottom side of a panel or the inside of a frame. I would love to see YOU make more videos and uses for the jig or a complete projects done with the jig. Maybe some training videos. You explain things extremely well and you are detailed but not overly complex. Keep up the good work.
I'm always looking for new video ideas. Thanks for the suggestions.
New to woodworking, what size dowels are those? Also, is the body of the jig metal or plastic? Thanks, Garry
I used 1/4" dowels in this video. The jig body is machined aluminum.
Great video.
Thank you!!
How do you dowel a table leg cut on a 10 degree angle to the table apron that is cut at 90 degrees? How do you line up the two sets of holes so that align correctly?
2😊
That would just take some careful measuring and layout. I'm making a video of different dowel joints. I'll add this one to the list. BTW- This is probably why most of the time, there is a square section of leg at the top before the taper starts. Easier to join 2 square pieces.
So awesome, had to subscribe
Awesome! Thank you!
What kind of square did you use
This is the set I have - amzn.to/3C9N9as Excellent squares. I also added the link in the description. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful!!
Glad you think so!
On the last example, why 2.5 inch and not the same 2 inch way you showed for the previous one?
2" exactly would work but a little over 2" just provides a bit of space. That way, the jig can reference the dowel and still fully seat against the fence.
@MattMadeIt123 wouldn't that lower the place where the shelf fits without being flush with the top? I am not sure I understand how in yours it still sits flush because in the previous assembly you had told it's 2 inches from the top of the jig to the center of the dowel. If i keep it 2.5 doesn't it lower the location of the hole?
I couldn't agree more with comments that refer to this video as being incredibly helpful, detailed etc. This video helped me soooo much. Thanks!
Any chance of you making a video that can show us how to make dowels on a 45 degree?
That's tough with this jig on its own. The best way to drill dowels at 45° with this jig is to mount it in JessEm's Workstation.
Where did you get the 2 and a half inches for the last joint you did?
2 1/2 inches is far enough away so you can align to the dowels and have the fence tight to the top of the piece of wood.
Excellent. Thank you,
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
The hole and maybe the endgrain of the dowel creates a place for moisture and fungus to form. I've done it many times and rots every time. I've always used Titbond III glue. Maybe if you used an epoxy you might have better success.
That hasn't been my experience. I have pieces with dowel joinery that are over 10 years old and are still as solid as the day they were built. I once saw a 100 year old workbench assembled with dowels and mortise and tenons. It was still in use. Dowels aren't much different than dominos or other loose tenon joints. They seem to hold up just fine. I'm not sure why you're having problems with them, but so far, I've seen nothing to cause me any concern.
You missed the two awesome, inexpensive jigs out of china the UA-cam channel Hooked on Wood (Episodes 27, 42, and 49) tested and recommends. one is a long bar (40 cm?) of machined aluminum for cabinets and the other similar to this Jessem. They do different things. There is a third he recommends for furniture.
I wish I could test everything. If someone wants to send me these jigs, I would be happy to test them against the JessEm jig.
good video
Thank you!
That doesn’t mean that the holes are centred
Maybe you should rewatch the video. Starting about here 2:15.
Believe me, your panel will rot out at the dowel locations.
You think so? Please explain.